KR20210049730A - Silk fabrics with velvet texture and method ofmanufacturing the silk fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a silk fabric with a velvet texture and a manufacturing method thereof. The present invention solves a problem that it was impossible to form naps on fabric woven only with a 100% silk yarn in the prior art. According to the present invention, the method comprises: a step of forming a fixing part (L1) by alternately passing a weft yarn (B) made of a pure silk yarn through the upper and lower sides of a warp (1-10) with a relatively small number of strands; a step of passing the weft yarn (B) through the upper or lower sides of a warp (11-21) having a relatively large number of strands as it is without crossing so that a nap forming part (L2) is formed, after the fixing part (L1), to form a space part (C) with the warp (11-21); a step of alternatively passing the weft yarn (B) through the upper and lower sides of a warp (22-34) with a small number of strands to form a fixing part (L3) after the nap forming part (L2); a step of repeating the fixing part (L3) and the nap forming part (L2) several times according to a predetermined pattern to weave a silk fabric; a step of cutting the weft yarn (B) of the nap forming part (L2) of the silk fabric to form naps (N1, N2) while passing the silk fabric through a napping machine; and a step of forming a velvet tissue structure by shearing the naps (N1, N2) formed on the silk fabric to a predetermined length with a shearing machine.

Description

{Silk fabrics with velvet texture and method of manufacturing the silk fabrics}

The present invention relates to a silk fabric woven from pure silk yarn and a method for manufacturing the same, and more particularly, to a silk fabric fabric in which all or partially brushed silk fabric is formed, and a method for manufacturing the same.

Velvet fabrics are made by partially or wholly brushed knitted or knitted fabrics, and velvet fabrics known to date are mostly woven or knitted with chemical fibers, or woven or knitted with a mixture of chemical fibers and wool or cotton yarn, It is made by raising the woven fabric with a brush.

However, there is no difficulty in making a velvet fabric by weaving using only chemical fibers, but chemical fibers are not natural fibers, so they have various adverse effects on the skin.

Compared to this, silk yarn has various advantages as a cloth fabric, but other chemical fiber yarns

It has been recognized that it is difficult to make velvet as a silk fabric because it has a higher cut-off rate than that of Honseom yarn, so it has been recognized that it is impossible to use only silk yarn to make velvet fabrics in general.

Conventionally, when weaving to make a velvet fabric as a pure silk fabric, there has been an attempt to make velvet by inserting a wire wire into the warp and weaving it, and then cutting the convex ring-shaped weft that is formed after removing the wire wire with a knife one by one. However, these methods are small

The commercialization was not possible due to the disadvantages of low productivity and high cost because the manufacturers manually weaved each one.

Accordingly, the present invention has been devised to solve the above-described disadvantages of the related art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a silk fabric fabric having the advantages of silk fabric and the characteristics of velvet by mechanically forming a brush on a silk fabric made by weaving only pure silk yarn.

On the other hand, another object of the present invention is to provide a method of weaving a silk fabric with brushed partially and entirely formed on the surface.

The present invention for achieving the above object is in a silk fabric fabric woven by crossing a plurality of weft yarns and warps made of pure silk yarns, wherein the weft yarns pass upward without intersecting the warp yarns of a relatively large number of yarns, Raising to form the space

The forming part and both ends of the raised forming part are interlaced by alternately passing the upper and lower ends of the warp yarn of a relatively small number of strands, so that a fixing part for fixing both ends of the weft of the raised forming part is repeatedly formed according to a certain rule. , The weft of the raising-formation part is a silk fabric having a structure in which the raising is formed by cutting with a raising implement.

In addition, in the method of weaving a silk fabric according to the present invention, a fixing part is formed by crossing the weft yarn made of pure silk so that the warp of a relatively small number of strands is alternately passed through the upper side and the lower side. After passing the warp of the number of strands upward or downward, a space part is formed between the warp and the weft, and then the space part is crossed so that the weft is alternately passed through the upper and lower sides of the warp of a small number of strands. The top part is formed, the fixing part forming process and the space part forming process are repeated several times according to a predetermined pattern to weave, and the weft of the raised part of the woven silk fabric is cut and raised as described above to weave a silk fabric with brushed hair. .

According to the present invention, since it is woven only with 100% pure silk, it has the advantage of natural fibers that have excellent gloss, touch, and breathability, and in particular, it is possible to form a brush on pure silk fabric, so that it is possible to form softness and various patterns. It can be increased, and productivity can be improved by mechanically performing the raising process, as well as the advantage of significantly lowering the rate of defects.

1 is an organization chart of a fabric fabric according to the present invention,
2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a partially enlarged organizational structure of the organizational chart of FIG. 1;
3 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a state in which a brush is formed on the silk fabric of FIG. 2;
Figure 4a is a tissue enlarged photograph of an example of a silk fabric in a state before forming a brush after weaving according to the present invention,
FIG. 4B is an enlarged photograph of a tissue part of a silk fabric in a state in which a velvet structure was formed by partially raising the hair in the state of FIG. 4A;
Figure 5a is another example of a silk fabric woven according to the present invention, an enlarged photograph of the tissue in a state before raising the hair,
FIG. 5B is an enlarged photograph of a tissue portion of a silk fabric in a state in which a velvet structure was formed by partially raising the hair in the state of FIG. 5A;
6 is an enlarged photograph of a tissue portion of a silk fabric in a state in which a velvet structure is formed by forming a brush on the entire fabric according to the present invention.

When weaving the above-described silk fabric of the present invention, the weft yarn is a combination of 6 yarns of 21 denier yarn (6 ply yarns) as one strand, and the fineness of brushing is inadequate for making a velvet structure for yarns of 4 or less, The wefts of 8 or more are too thick, making it difficult to raise.

And the warp is preferably 2 ply of 21 denier and 2 strands of silk.

The density of the warp is suitable for 250 to 320 strands per inch, and the density of the weft is most preferably 130 X 2 (referring to the double wefting 130 strands per inch), and the probability of the weft falling out is 110 X 2 or less. It is not suitable because it is high, and if it is over 140 X 2, it is too dense.

Female Weaving productivity is low, making it unsuitable.

In addition, 9 to 13 strands are most suitable for the number of inclinations of the raised part, and if the number of strands is less than 8 strands, it is narrow for the needle knife to be inserted, so the defect rate is high during the raising process. On the other hand, if the number of strands exceeds 14 strands, This weakens.

Hereinafter, embodiments according to the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view partially showing the structure of a silk fabric according to the present invention by cutting along the direction of one weft thread of FIG. 1 on a design paper.

First, design the pattern of the silk fabric to be woven on the design post. Then, the silk fabric according to the present invention is weaved with warp (A) and weft (B) according to the organizational chart shown in FIG. 1.

The weft (B) uses 21 denier silk and 6 yarns combined (6 ply) as one strand, and yarns of 4 or less are not suitable because the brushing is too dense to make a velvet structure, and wefts of 8 or more are too dense. It is thick, so it is difficult to raise it.

And the warp (A) is preferably 2 ply of 21 denier and 2 strands of silk.

As shown in Figure 2, the present invention is a one-strand weft (B) of 6 ply is a plurality of strands, preferably 9 to 13 strands of the upper of the warp (11 to 21) (for convenience of explanation, Fig. 2 The upper part of is referred to as'the upper part of the slope', and the lower part of FIG. 2 is referred to as the'lower part of the slope')

Through the inclinations (11 to 21) and a space portion (C) through which the needle of the raising device, which will be described later, can pass through, forming a raised portion (L2), and the raising of the raised portion (L2) Fixing parts (L1, L3) for fixing both ends of the weft yarn of the raising part (L2) by alternately passing the upper and lower sides of the warp yarn (1-10) (22-34) with a relatively small number of strands at both ends of the weft yarn (B). ), weaving.

That is, referring to FIG. 2 in detail, after each weft yarn (B) passes downward through the two-stranded warp (1,2), the adjacent two-stranded warp (3,4)(5,6) and The fixed part L1 is formed by passing the three-stranded inclinations 7-9 alternately up and down. Since this fixing part (L1) serves to fix the lower end of the raising (N1) as shown in FIG. 3, the number of warp strands forming the fixing part (L1) by interlocking with the weft (B) is determined irregularly. It is desirable.

The weft yarn (B) with one end fixed by the fixing part (L1) passes through the upper side of the warp yarn (11-21) of a relatively large number of strands (preferably 9 to 13 strands) without agglutination, and these warp yarns (11) -21) forming a raised portion (L2) to be provided with a space portion (C) between them, and

Then, the weft yarn (B) is again passed through the top and bottom of the warp yarn (22-34) with a relatively small number of strands and crosses each other, thereby fixing the other end of the raised section (L2) (L3). Weaving to form ).

This fixing part (L3) also serves to fix the lower end of the raised (N2), which is made by cutting the weft of the raised part (L2), as shown in FIG. 3.

If the number of strands 11-21 constituting the raising part L2 is 8 or less, the space part C is too narrow, making it difficult for the needle knife of the raising implement to be inserted in the subsequent raising process. In the above case, since the space portion (C) is too wide to weaken the tissue, the number of inclined strands of the raised portion (L2) is most preferably 9 to 13 strands. And the actual length of the raised portion (L2) is 112 mm.

The same process is repeated several times so that the raised portion L2 and the fixing portions L1 and L3 are formed at both ends of the raised portion L2 to weave a silk fabric having a predetermined pattern. Examples of such a woven silk fabric are shown in FIGS. 4A and 5A.

The density of the warp yarn (A) is suitable for 250 to 320 strands per inch, and the density of the weft yarn (B) is most preferably 130 X 2 (referring to a double weave of 130 strands per inch), and 110 X 2 Below, there is a high probability that the weft will fall out.

It is unsuitable due to low productivity due to its compactness.

As shown in Fig. 3, the weft yarn (B) of the raising unit (L2) is cut with a needle knife of the raising unit (not shown) while passing the woven silk fabric through the raising machine. Each (L2) is formed to raise (N1, N2). The brushing formed in this way

The length of (N1, N2) is not constant, so the brushed fabric is cut to a certain length in a shearing machine.

In the raising formation, the raising forming part may be partially formed on the fabric, as shown in FIGS. 4B and 5B, or the raising forming part may be formed on the entire fabric to provide raising the entire fabric as shown in FIG. It can also be formed.

On the other hand, during the weaving process, it is possible to weave a silk fabric fabric having various patterns by using silk yarn of various colors for warp or weft yarn, and examples of the silk fabric fabric made through the raising and shearing process of the silk fabric are shown in Fig. 4b, It is shown in the photographs of FIGS. 5B and 6.

4B and 5B are photographs of a state in which brushing is partially formed on the fabric of FIG. 4A and the fabric of FIG. 5A, respectively. In each drawing, "X" is a velvet structure in which a brush is formed, and "Y" is a brushed fabric. It refers to the fabric texture of non-woven fabric.

A, 1,234: warp B: weft
C: space part L1, L3: brushed fixing part
L2: raising part N1,N2: raising
X: Velvet texture with brushed Y: Fabric texture without brushed

Claims (4)

In the fabric fabric woven by crossing a plurality of warp yarns (A) and weft yarns (B),
The weft yarn (A) and the warp yarn (B) are made of pure silk yarn, and the weft yarn (B) passes above the warp yarn (11-21) of a relatively large number of strands, and the space portion between the warp yarn (A) and ( C) to form a raised portion (L2), and the weft (B) of the raised portion (L2) is
It is cut to form a raised (N1, N2), and the weft (B) is at both ends of the weft (B) of the raised part (L2), the warp (1-10) (22-34) of a relatively small number of strands. A silk fabric having a velvet structure in which the lower ends of the brushed (N1, N2) are fixed by alternately passing through the upper and lower sides of) and crossing each other. The velvet according to claim 1, wherein the warp (A) is 250 to 320 strands per inch, and the weft (B) is double-woven at a density of 130 strands per inch using 6 ply of 21 denier silk. Structured silk fabric. After passing the weft yarn (B) made of pure silk yarn through the upper or lower side of the warp yarn (A) having a relatively large number of strands without interlocking, a raised part (L2) is formed so that a space (L2) is provided between the warp and , Relatively less weft (B) at both ends of the raising part (L2)
A silk fabric weaving step of weaving a silk fabric by repeating the process of forming the fixing parts L1 and L3 several times according to a predetermined pattern by alternately passing the upper and lower sides of the warp (A) of the number of strands to cross each other;
A raising step of cutting the weft yarn (B) of each raised portion (L2) of the silk fabric fabric with a needle of the raising implement while passing the silk fabric through a raising machine to form a raising (N1, N2); And a shearing step of shearing the brushed (N1, N2) formed on the silk fabric to a predetermined length with a shearing machine; The method of claim 3, wherein the warp (A) has a density of 250 to 320 strands per inch, and the weft (B) is double-woven at a density of 130 strands per inch using 6 ply of 21 denier silk. A method of manufacturing a silk fabric with a velvety structure.

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