KR20190008693A - Cosmetic composition comprising calamine having improved formulation stability and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition including calamine and a preparation method thereof. According to one aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition including calamine has smooth surface, has excellent usability, and may secure the formulation stability by using the calamine dispersed in a polyol. According to other aspect of the present invention, the preparation method of the cosmetic composition including the calamine may reduce a process time by suppressing gelling through a process dispersing the calamine in the polyol.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a calamine having improved formulation stability and a preparation method thereof,

And a method for producing the same.

The trend of the cosmetics market in recent years is a combination of skin care and makeup, such as adding makeup function to skin care, and feeling the use of skin care for makeup products. Since around 2012, CC cream has recently been on the rise to include an immediate skin whitening product line, including tonic cream. Most of the raw materials to be applied are titanium dioxide and mica, which have high refractive index, but they are not applied due to artificial image and cytotoxicity.

Calamine is a pink powder consisting of 95% of zinc oxide and 5.0% of iron oxide. It has been applied to quasi-drugs since it has an excellent effect on eczema, rash, chickenpox and sunburn. Also, because of the refractive index of zinc oxide, an immediate whitening effect can be imparted when applying the skin.

However, due to the nature of zinc oxide, calamine has an isoelectric point around pH 9.0, and when applied to water-in-water (O / W) formulations where the pH is lower than that of zinc oxide isoelectric point, And exhibits a gelation phenomenon. As a result, problems of stability such as hardness rise and water separation and quality deterioration of surface roughness have occurred, and it has been very difficult to apply a large amount of calamine to an underwater type formulation, and most of them are limited to water-in-oil (W / O) Has come. The limitations of these formulations have limited the usability and it is even more difficult to realize a fresh feeling of use of the underwater type formulation.

Korean Patent Publication No. 2013-0055182.

One aspect includes a calamine dispersed in a polyol to block the properties of the calamine surface to improve formulation stability and provide a cosmetic composition having a smooth surface.

Another aspect provides a method of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a calamine, wherein the process time due to gelling is shortened by minimizing the reaction of the calamine with water.

One aspect provides a cosmetic composition comprising a calamine dispersed in a polyol.

The term "calamine" may refer to a pink powder comprising iron oxide and zinc oxide (ZnO). Calamine has an isoelectric point around pH 9.0 due to the nature of zinc oxide. When calamine is applied to an underwater type formulation having a pH lower than the isoelectric point of most zinc oxide, the calamine acts as a cation due to the zinc oxide characteristic, which occupies most of the constituents, and is highly reactive with water or an anionic substance A gelation phenomenon may occur. Therefore, when calamine is applied to an underwater type formulation, stability problems such as increase in hardness and water separation and quality degradation such as surface roughness may occur. For this reason, it has been very difficult to apply a large amount of calamine to a water-in-oil type formulation, and most of the products have been developed for use in water-in-oil type formulations.

However, the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment of the present invention overcomes the above problem by using a calamine dispersed in a polyol. Since the surface property of the calamine is induced by the nonpolar nature of the calamine dispersed in the polyol except the purified water, the gelation phenomenon can be suppressed by lowering the reactivity with water occurring in the presence of calamine alone. Further, by using the calamine dispersed in the polyol, the processing time for smoothly making the surface of the cosmetic composition can be shortened, and the stability of the formulation can be increased by suppressing the phenomenon of water leaking out.

Thus, the calamine dispersed in the polyol may have a non-polar surface. That is, the calamine dispersed in the polyol may be one whose surface has been modified to be nonpolar. In order to modify the surface of the calamine nonpolarly, a process of dispersing the calamine in the polyol other than the purified water can be performed. If purified water is used at this time, it is preferable to exclude purified water because calamine may react with purified water to cause gelation phenomenon.

The term "polyol" is used interchangeably with "polyhydric alcohol" and may refer to an aliphatic compound having two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). The polyol can serve as a humectant.

The polyol may include glycerols, glycols, and the like. The glycerol derivatives may include glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, and the like. The glycols may include propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and the like. In addition, the polyol may include 1,2-hexanediol, sorbitol, xylitol, and the like. In one embodiment, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butyleneglycol, pentaerythritol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2- Sorbitol, and the like.

The polyol may be used in an amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt%, 1.0 to 80.0 wt%, 1.0 to 70.0 wt%, 1.0 to 60.0 wt%, 1.0 to 50.0 wt%, 1.0 to 40.0 wt%, 1.0 to 30.0 wt% 5.0 to 80.0 wt.%, 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, 5.0 to 40.0 wt.%, Or 5.0 to 20.0 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the polyol is less than 1.0 wt%, the dispersion of the calamine may not be easy. If the content of the polyol is more than 90.0 wt%, the dispersed colamine may be precipitated because the use of the increasing agent is difficult.

The calamine may be used in an amount of 0.01 to 60.0% by weight, 0.01 to 50.0% by weight, 0.01 to 40.0% by weight, 0.01 to 30.0% by weight, 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, , 0.1 to 1.0 wt%, 1.0 to 60.0 wt%, 1.0 to 50.0 wt%, 1.0 to 40.0 wt%, 1.0 to 30.0 wt%, 5.0 to 60.0 wt%, 5.0 to 50.0 wt%, 5.0 to 40.0 wt% 5.0 to 30.0% by weight. If the content of calamine is less than 0.01%, skin whitening or soothing effect may be insufficient, and if it exceeds 60.0% by weight, dispersion may not be easy.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be a formulation of any one of an aquatic type, a water-in-oil type, and a non-aqueous dispersion. When calamine is used alone, it is difficult to apply a large amount of calamine to a water-in-oil type formulation because of the problem that calamine acts as a cation and reacts with water or an anion-like raw material with high reactivity, It was confined to formulations. However, by using a calamine dispersed in a polyol, the above problems can be solved, and a high stability can be obtained even in an underwater type formulation. In the case of an underwater type formulation, a feeling of fresh feeling can be realized, and a feeling of use can be excellent.

The term "oil-in-water (O / W)" is used interchangeably with "oil-in-water emulsion " . In one embodiment, the water-in-oil type cosmetic composition containing the calamine may be prepared by mixing the calamine dispersed in the polyol on the water and then injecting the oil.

The term "water-in-oil" (W / O) is used interchangeably with "water-in-oil emulsion" . In one embodiment, a water-in-oil type cosmetic composition containing a calamine may be prepared by mixing a calamine dispersed in a polyol into an oil phase portion and then adding an aqueous phase portion.

The term "non-aqueous dispersion" means a form dispersed in a solvent other than water. In one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion type cosmetic composition can be prepared by dispersing the calamine dispersed in the polyol in a non-aqueous solvent.

The composition according to one embodiment comprises an oil comprising a hydrocarbon-based oil, an ester-based oil, and a silicone-based oil in the oil phase; Wax; fatty acid; And higher alcohols, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may include, but is not limited to, mineral oil, squalane, and the like. The ester-based oil is selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethyl hexanoate, hexyl laurate, neopentyl glycol, dicaprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, triethylhexanone, butyleneglycol dicaprylate / dicaprate caprylic / capric triglyceride And the like, but are not limited thereto. The silicone oil may include volatile oil, vegetable squalane, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, and the like, and may include silicone elastomers such as vinyl dimethicone, but are not limited thereto.

The wax may include bees wax, paraffin wax, multi-wax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and the like, but is not limited thereto.

The fatty acid may include, but is not limited to, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, and the like.

The higher alcohols may include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and the like.

0.01 to 20.0% by weight, 0.01 to 15.0% by weight, 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, 0.1 to 50.0% by weight, and 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 40.0 wt%, 0.1 to 30.0 wt%, 0.1 to 20.0 wt%, 0.1 to 15.0 wt%, 0.1 to 10.0 wt%, 1 to 50.0 wt%, 1 to 40.0 wt%, 1 to 30.0 wt% 20.0% by weight, 1 to 15.0% by weight, or 1 to 10.0% by weight. Those skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate oil content according to the formulation of the desired cosmetic composition.

The composition according to one embodiment may further comprise a thickener. The thickener may mean a component used for the purpose of increasing the viscosity. Compositions in accordance with one embodiment comprise a composition consisting of a carbomer, an acrylate copolymer, an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, xanthan gum, hydroxymethylcellulose, hectorite, and polyacrylamide But the present invention is not limited thereto.

The thickener may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the thickening agent is less than 0.01% by weight, the viscosity increase effect may be insufficient. If the content of the thickening agent is more than 10.0% by weight, the viscosity may become strong and the feeling of use and the degree of dispersion of the colorant may not be good.

Compositions according to one embodiment may include purified water, thickeners, and the like at the top of the water. A person skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate aqueous content according to the formulation of the desired cosmetic composition.

The composition according to one embodiment may further comprise a powder. The powder may be a mineral powder such as kaolin, bentonite or montmorillonite; And silicon-based powder such as silica and polymethyl methacrylate, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

The powder may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, but is not limited thereto.

The composition according to one embodiment may comprise a surfactant. Surfactants act as stabilizers for formulations such as emulsifiers, and at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected. The nonionic surfactant may include decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, polyethylene glycol surfactant, and the like. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants include polyethylene glycol isostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyethylene glycol triisostearate, polyethylene glycol glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol glycerol Polyethylene glycol laurate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan tetraoleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, polyoxyethylene triolite, phage / piperidine-20/20 dimethicone, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate, 10 dimethicone, polysorbate 85, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, octyldodeces-5, octyldodeces-16, octyldodeces-20, octyldodeces-25, and the like .

The surfactant can be selected in an appropriate amount depending on the type of the formulation.

The composition according to one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation, and may include a compounding component of a cosmetic composition that is commonly used depending on the type of the formulation to be produced. The composition according to one embodiment may be a toning cosmetic composition. For example, it may be formulated into a lotion, essence, cream, sunscreen, makeup base, foundation, babe cream, pack or the like, but is not limited thereto.

The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also contain additional ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as fragrances, fillers, preservatives, preservatives, neutralizing agents, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers, sequestering agents, And may further comprise any conventional cosmetic ingredients that may be selected.

One of ordinary skill in the art can select any additional components and / or amounts thereof so that the beneficial properties of the composition according to the present disclosure are not adversely affected or substantially not affected by the anticipated addition.

Other aspects include 1) dispersing the calamine in the polyol; And 2) mixing the calamine dispersed in the polyol with an aqueous or oily phase.

The calamine, the aqueous phase, and the oil phase part dispersed in the polyol, the calamine, and the polyol are as described above.

The method according to one embodiment is characterized in that no purified water is used in the step 1). Since the purified water is not used in the step 1), the gelation can be suppressed by minimizing the reaction between the calamine and the purified water, thereby shortening the processing time.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be in the form of any of an aquatic type, a water-in-oil type, and a non-aqueous dispersion.

If the cosmetic composition is an underwater type formulation, the calamine dispersed in the polyol in step 2) can be mixed with the aqueous phase. 3) mixing the oil phase with the upper portion of the water mixed with the calamine.

If the cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil type formulation, the calamine dispersed in the polyol in step 2) may be mixed with the oil portion. And 3) mixing the water phase with the oil phase mixed with calamine.

The cosmetic composition comprising a coloramine according to one aspect of the present invention uses a calamine dispersed in a polyol, so that its surface is smooth and excellent in feeling of use, and formulation stability can be secured.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a calamine, which comprises dispersing a calamine into a polyol, thereby suppressing gelation and shortening the processing time.

Fig. 1 is a photograph of the surface state of cosmetic compositions of Comparative Example 1 (left) and Example 1 (right).
Fig. 2 is a photograph showing the stability of the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 (left) and Example 1 (right) at 45 占 폚 for one month.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, these examples are for illustrative purposes only, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example  1: containing calamine Cosmetics  Preparation of composition

Each component was weighed in a beaker according to the content. Ingredients 1 to 3 (aqueous phase) were uniformly mixed at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. Ingredients 4 and 5 (calamine) were pretreated for 30 minutes in a disper and mixed. The mixture was put on top of water and mixed homogeneously at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. Then, Components 6 and 7 (oily portion) were added and mixed homogeneously at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. Component 8 (gradual tack) was added and mixed homogeneously at 3500 rpm for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 35 to 50 ° C, and Components 9 and 10 (additives) were added thereto. The mixture was stirred at 3000 rpm for 2 minutes, and defoaming and cooling were performed to prepare a cosmetic composition in an underwater type (O / W) formulation. Table 1 shows the specific components and contents of the cosmetic composition according to Example 1. Unless otherwise stated herein, the component content is by weight. As a result, an opaque creamy composition was obtained.

division No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Water top One Purified water To 100 2 Disodium edetate 0.02 3 Xanthan gum 0.1 Kalambu 4 glycerin 10.0 5 Calamine 10.0 Floating 6 Cetearyl alcohol 4.0 7 Cetyl hexanoate 3.0 Increasing age 8 Sodium polyacrylate 0.5 Additive part 9 antiseptic Suitable amount 10 Spices Suitable amount

Comparative Example  1: containing calamine Cosmetics  Preparation of composition

An o / w type cosmetic composition was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composition of the color former was different. Table 2 shows the specific components and contents of the cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 1. < tb > < TABLE > As a result, an opaque creamy composition was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

division No. ingredient Content (% by weight) Water top One Purified water To 100 2 Disodium edetate 0.02 3 Xanthan gum 0.1 Kalambu 4 glycerin 10.0 5 Purified water 10.0 6 Calamine 10.0 Floating 7 Cetearyl alcohol 4.0 8 Cetyl hexanoate 3.0 Increasing age 9 Sodium polyacrylate 0.5 Additive part 10 antiseptic Suitable amount 11 Spices Suitable amount

Experimental Example  1: Comparison of manufacturing time

During the preparation of the cosmetic composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the time required to obtain a uniform calamine fraction was measured.

Fig. 1 is a photograph of the surface state of cosmetic compositions of Comparative Example 1 (left) and Example 1 (right).

As a result, Example 1 took 20 minutes, while Comparative Example 1 took 1 hour. The reason for adding purified water and polyol to the calamine portion is to secure a poor solvent in the formulation. The use of purified water to disperse the calamine in an underwater type formulation can be easily accessed in the most inexpensive way, so that the same method as in Comparative Example 1 is mainly used. However, since the pH of the purified water is lower than that of the isoelectric point of the calamine, the calamine has a cationic property, so that the calamine reacts with the ionic component of the purified water or the component in the formulation to accelerate the gelation, . Further, as shown in Fig. 1, the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 contained finely dispersed calamine. On the other hand, the cosmetic composition of Example 1 confirmed that the calamine was uniformly dispersed.

Experimental Example  2: Feeling  And skin irritation evaluation

Experiments were conducted on the cosmetic composition prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 to evaluate sensation of use and skin irritation.

Specifically, each of the 30 professional panelists aged 20 to 35 years was provided with each composition for a cosmetic composition, and the items according to the following table were evaluated according to the general usage method. Table 3 shows the feeling of use and skin irritation evaluation results of the cosmetic composition prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

<Evaluation Criteria>

More than 24 women judged to be excellent: ◎

18-23 women judged to be excellent: ○

10-17 women judged to be excellent: △

Judging that 10 or fewer women are good: X

Experiment Item Comparative Example Example Floatability and spreadability △ ◎ Skin irritation X ◎ Washability ◎ ◎ Instant whitening effect ◎ ◎

As shown in Table 3, the washability and the immediate whitening effect were comparable to those of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1, but showed a great difference in spreadability and skin irritation. The calamine part included in Example 1 had a smooth surface through a dispersing process and had excellent wetting properties such as fresh cream. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 was evaluated to have poor releasing property due to the presence of finely dispersed color powder, and the gelation phenomenon occurred after a lapse of time, and thus, the floating property was not easy.

Experimental Example  3: Evaluation of formulation stability

An experiment was conducted to evaluate the formulation stability of the cosmetic composition for underwater including the high-content calamine produced in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

Specifically, the stability of the cosmetic composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was confirmed by a method in which the composition was stored in a thermostatic chamber at 37 DEG C and 45 DEG C in a refrigerator for 4 weeks. Particularly, evaluation was made on the separation of the formulations, suspension, change in hardness, and feeling of use. Table 4 below shows the results of evaluation of the formulation stability of the cosmetic compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. &lt; tb &gt; &lt; TABLE &gt;

<Evaluation Criteria>

?: Good,?: Difference from the beginning, X: Appearance change

Experiment Item Comparative Example 1 Example 1 cold storage 1 week ○ ○ 2 weeks ○ ○ 4 weeks ○ ○ Room temperature 1 week ○ ○ 2 weeks △ ○ 4 weeks X ○ 37 ℃ 1 week ○ ○ 2 weeks △ ○ 4 weeks X ○ 45 ° C 1 week △ ○ 2 weeks X ○ 4 weeks X ○

Fig. 2 is a photograph showing the stability of the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 (left) and Example 1 (right) at 45 占 폚 for one month.

As shown in Table 4 and FIG. 2, the cosmetic composition of Example 1 was excellent in formulation stability even in the fourth week, but the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 showed a state in which the aqueous component was separated from the first week of the room temperature to 45 ° C . As described above, it was judged that the water component of the thickening agent was deteriorated due to the gelation phenomenon of the calamine and the water component was separated on the surface.

Claims (13)

A cosmetic composition comprising a calamine dispersed in a polyol. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the calamine has a non-polar surface. [2] The method of claim 1, wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, Sorbitol. &Lt; / RTI &gt; The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is contained in an amount of 1.0 to 90.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the calamine is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 60.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is a formulation of any one of an underwater type, a water-in-oil type, and a non-aqueous type. [3] The method of claim 1, wherein the oil comprises an hydrocarbon-based oil, an ester-based oil, and a silicone-based oil; Wax; fatty acid; And at least one selected from the group consisting of higher alcohols. [Claim 7] The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the oily component is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 50.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, an acrylate copolymer, an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, xanthan gum, hydroxymethylcellulose, hectorite, and polyacrylamide &Lt; / RTI &gt; wherein the composition further comprises at least one thickening agent. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the thickening agent is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 1) dispersing the calamine in the polyol; And
2) mixing the calamine dispersed in the polyol with an aqueous or oily phase. The method according to claim 11, wherein no purified water is used in step 1). The method according to claim 11, wherein the cosmetic composition is a formulation of any one of an underwater type, a water-in-oil type, and a non-aqueous type.

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