KR20170105381A

KR20170105381A - On-line crystal capsule emulsion manufacturing process and its cosmetic composition based on fatty alcohol mixtures containing skin-active ingredients

Info

Publication number: KR20170105381A
Application number: KR1020160028528A
Authority: KR
Inventors: 김호연; 박신영; 김태석; 여익현; 남승우
Original assignee: 주식회사 풀무원
Priority date: 2016-03-09
Filing date: 2016-03-09
Publication date: 2017-09-19

Abstract

A lot of work is needed for research for forming crystal liquid crystal capsules, which are appealing to consumers in an emulsification or a solubilization emulsion process in an on-line process with the aim of manufacturing a cosmetic composition. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for manufacturing the crystal liquid crystal capsules appealing to the consumer by utilizing temperature-dependent melting point characteristics of higher fatty alcohol, higher fatty-based and alkyl glyceride-based ingredients in the on-line process for manufacturing cosmetics, and to a manufacturing process thereof. The crystal liquid crystal capsule formulation of the present invention showed that the capsule phase was about 45%, and the capsules can contain lipophilic skin-improvement functional oil components in an amount of about 75 to 95% with respect to the addition amount. In addition, functionality and satisfaction of the formulation were evaluated through human body application tests, and a significant skin improvement effect and consumer satisfaction level of about 86% were also confirmed.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The present invention relates to an on-line crystal capsule emulsion manufacturing process and a cosmetic composition on the basis of which a high fat alcohol-based on-line crystal capsule emulsion containing a skin improving functional ingredient is contained,

The present invention forms crystal liquid crystal capsules through precise setting of process conditions (on-line) through the optimum combination of high fatty alcohols and higher fatty acids (having 16 to 22 carbon atoms) and setting optimal process conditions The present invention relates to an oil-in-gel-in-wax (hereinafter referred to as " Oil-in-Gel-in-Waer ") and a process for producing a cosmetic composition capable of moreover functionally converting a cosmetic composition by collecting skin- Prescription and processing.

The cosmetic composition can be broadly divided into a solubilization system and an emulsification system. The solubilization system is solubilization of an oil component by applying a solubilizing agent having a HLB of 15 or more to form a transparent mold Quot;

On the other hand, the emulsification method can be divided into various kinds of manufacturing methods of about ten kinds. As a typical method, a high temperature emulsification method, a liquid crystal emulsification method, a phase emulsification method, a PIT temperature emulsification method, a D phase emulsification method, an amino acid gel emulsification method, There are various emulsification methods such as dispersion emulsification method, Pickering emulsion, Benton gel emulsification method, Refractive index matching emulsion and Poly ion complex method, and a new emulsification method which is more stable and capable of delivering effective functional ingredients for skin improvement is continuously being developed.

Among them, the most commonly used emulsification method is a high temperature emulsification method, and the high temperature emulsification method is a method in which the melting point of oil and waxy classification applied to cosmetics is usually in the vicinity of 40 to 70 degrees, The mixture is emulsified with a homogenizer using a homogenizer, cooled to 40-50 ° C., cooled to room temperature after addition of secondary fractionation in this step, Have been applied to products.

However, this method has limitations in containing various functional materials and dispersants, and it is necessary to pay attention to stability over time and high temperature (more than 40 degrees) after manufacture, and there is a restriction in delivering functional ingredients into human skin. And phase inversion method and PIT emulsification method utilize the phase inversion characteristic of nonionic surfactant having temperature dependency property. There are not many types of surfactant. If other additional classification is added, phase inversion temperature or And transparency on the surface of the substrate.

In recent years, a product group using a D-phase emulsification method utilizing a polyhydric alcohol and a surfactant having a large amount of 5 to 10% or more has often been found. However, the D-phase emulsification method is also suitable for finding a polyvalent alcohol forming a high- And a sophisticated formulation technique is required.

Recently, liquid emulsion has been one of the most studied fields in the field of emulsification technology. The liquid crystal emulsification method is a method of forming a liquid crystal by utilizing high fatty alcohol and fatty acid and a surfactant of polyethylene glycol series, and it is possible to generate a complex structure such as a lamellar structure, a vesicle structure or a cubic structure, and a cholesterol, lecithin and ceramide The lipid layer of the lipid layer is similar in structure to the skin stratum corneum, so that it has excellent adsorption on the skin, and is known to exhibit improved skin barrier properties and skin-friendly properties. However, even in this formulation, it is suitable for a creamy formulation product having a rich feeling and a medium to high viscosity, and it is required to use a gender classification on a wax, thereby showing an opaque characteristic due to emulsification.

Therefore, although the high temperature emulsification method is still applied most to the products such as the essence and the serum which are required to provide a light and smooth feeling, the high temperature emulsification method is generally composed of emulsifier, emollient, thickener, polyol moisturizer and silicone, It is sticky and the property is opaque, which makes it difficult to give differentiation appealing to consumers. Therefore, although it is applied to some product groups such as high temperature emulsification method skins made up of only water components excluded from the oil component by the high temperature emulsification method, in the case of this formulation, the moisture resistance is low according to the absence of the oil component, .

However, consumers are more likely to prefer differentiated formulations visible to the eye, and as the need for a product group bearing an active ingredient for high-function skin improvement is increasing, the present invention is developed as a formulation technology satisfying such consumer needs .

A variety of cosmetics products have been developed in a variety of ways, but consumer expectations of more differentiated products are steadily rising. Consumer demand for products that are suitable for their own skin, good feeling and good function, non sticky products, products that offer a smooth rolling sensation, and differentiated products from feature and color are becoming more and more diverse. In order to meet such consumer needs, development needs for a cosmetic composition that has differentiation in visual properties and color, provides a smooth feeling at the time of applying the skin, and provides a skin improving effect at the time of using for a long time has been highlighted. Therefore, in order to differentiate the properties and color from each other, a lot of cosmetic compositions that induce the differentiation of the properties by putting the capsules prepared offline in the wet bead process into the cosmetic composition are generally shown. On the other hand, in the present invention, high-grade fatty alcohols forming a temperature-specific capsule in a cosmetic emulsion process are selected by a combination of a high-temperature emulsification method and a liquid crystal emulsification method, and a homogenizing rate And a method for directly forming a crystal liquid crystal capsule through refinement of processing conditions such as time, agitating speed and time, heating and cooling, and the like. The application of the higher fatty acid alcohol system is similar to the liquid crystal emulsification method. It can be considered that the temperature is raised to 70 or 80 degrees and then cooled, which is similar to the high temperature emulsification method. However, the present invention includes a high fatty alcohol oil emollient It is possible to develop translucent products containing crystal capsules that appeal to consumers while providing rich moisturizing power because they do not apply the main emulsifier at all. In addition, crystal capsules can be classified as Oil-in-Capsule-in-Water formulations because they can capture lipophilic functional groups to help improve skin. It is expected that it will show better improvement and satisfaction than products using general emulsification method in long-term use.

In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides a process for producing a water-soluble polymer composition comprising 0.5 to 3% by weight of a higher fatty alcohol, 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of alkyl glyceryl, 0.01 to 0.3% by weight of a hydrophobically alkyl- A mixture of lipophilic functional ingredients which helps to improve the skin. In the cosmetic preparation process, the temperature, homogenizing mixing speed and time, agitator mixing speed and time of the homomixer, To provide differentiated cosmetic compositions by setting sophisticated process conditions.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for forming a capsule in a cosmetic preparation process and a process for producing the same, and includes a higher fatty alcohol and a higher fatty acid and an alkyl glyceryl ether. These components are waxy at room temperature and are usually known to be between 50 and 70 degrees in melting point. Therefore, when these gaseous compounds are raised to a high temperature of 70 ° C or higher, they are dissolved and then cooled again to room temperature. Then, they are changed into a waxy phase near the melting point. As each component is mixed, The melting temperature is lower than the melting point temperature of about 35 degrees is usually found to be formed.

The present invention does not contain a main emulsifier. When the emulsifier is added in the high temperature emulsification method and the liquid crystal emulsification method, the stability of the whole phase is improved while adsorbing the oil phase and the water phase component. However, the emulsion is emulsified and emulsified by the emulsifier and the properties become opaque. Can be provided. However, the present invention focuses on development of a stable formulation having excellent stability over time while eliminating the emulsifier. In order to eliminate the emulsifier, the present inventors developed a formulation having an emollient humectant and translucent properties and a rich feeling.

In order to enable on-line capsule formation on the manufacturing online using the conventional cosmetic composition homogenization process of the present invention, a homo-sizing process and an agitating process, a method and order of adding each raw material phase, and heating / cooling The focus is on setting the optimal process conditions to form the crystal liquid crystal capsules of appropriate size and strength.

The crystal capsule capsule composition of the present invention was able to directly manufacture crystal capsules having a size of 10 to 2,000 μm in the cosmetic composition manufacturing process through an optimum combination ratio of a high-fat fatty alcohol oil component and precise process setting in a cosmetic preparation process.

Crystal capsules were also found to collect more than 80% of lipophilic oil functional classifications to help improve skin. Therefore, the present invention is evaluated as providing differentiation and superior efficacy in function, and it is expected that the present invention can provide an effect of further improving high customer satisfaction.

& Lt ; Preparation of Crystal Capsule Emulsion Composition >
A total of six experiments were carried out in order to make a crystal liquid crystal capsule directly on the basis of beefyl alcohol and alkyl glyceryl diester, which are high fatty alcohol type, in a cosmetic composition manufacturing process.
It has been changed the homo - orginizing process condition and the agitating process condition. It has utilized the warming and cooling process and is able to collect the lipophilic functional ingredient. Respectively.
The major parameters were focused on the type and content of higher fatty alcohols, the content of alkyl glyceryl dodder, the presence of emulsifier, the type and content of thickeners, and the process conditions of homo and agitator mixing. We tried to find the formulation and process conditions that can optimize the size of the crystal capsule, the strength of the capsule when rubbing on the skin / bursting and coating performance, the transparency of the formulation, the aging time and the high temperature stability of the capsule.
In addition, ascorbyl tetraisopalimitate, which is a fat-soluble vitamin C component, was mainly applied as an effective ingredient for improving skin function, and gamma-linolenic acid, which is an essential fatty acid, was also applied in order to compare the capsule-
The composition of the on-line crystal liquid crystal capsule emulsion composition is shown in Table 1 below.
[Table 1]
Preparation of on-line crystal liquid crystal capsule emulsion composition

FIG. 1 shows that the size of the on-line crystal capsule emulsion can be manufactured at an average of 100-500 .mu.m suitable for application to a cosmetic composition, and it can be confirmed that a capsule having a size of 10-2,000 .mu.m can be largely produced by changing the process conditions.

Figure 2 shows the results of the analysis of the capsule formation ratio of the on-line crystal capsule emulsion

Crystal capsules were prepared with different process conditions based on the prescription given in the examples, and the formation ratio of crystal capsules was analyzed using a 45-μm mesh sieve. As a result, about 45% of the total results were confirmed as crystal capsules.

Fig. 3 shows the result of analysis of the functional component collection rate of the on-line crystal capsule emulsion

Based on the prescription given in the examples, crystal capsules were prepared by adding 2% of fat-soluble vitamin C and 3% of gamma linolenic aicd (GLA), an essential fatty acid, respectively, and vitamin C and GLA in the crystal capsules, Were collected using a 45 μm mesh sieve. As a result, the collection rate of about 75% ~ 95% was confirmed.

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the skin improvement effect using the Visia CR skin uniformity measuring device

The final base cosmetic composition containing vitamin C was subjected to a human body application test to confirm skin improvement effect (skin uniformity) by vitamin C.

* H (Hue). S (Saturation). V (Value) Standard deviation value analysis result

FIG. 5 is a human body application test using a L * a * b chorma-meter. The skin brightness improvement effect was evaluated by applying a human body test to the final base cosmetic composition containing vitamin C, Brightness).

FIG. 6 is a result of a clinical use survey on a final cosmetic composition. As a result of the clinical test, the final application of the cosmetic composition containing vitamin C (capsule essence) was tested to determine the degree of skin brightness improvement and irritation. For each item, the degree of improvement was more than 70%.

Claims

0.5 to 3% by weight of a higher fatty alcohol (or higher fatty acid), 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of alkyl glyceryl, 0.01 to 0.3% by weight of a hydrophobically alkyl-modified thickener, It is characterized by forming in situ crystal liquid crystal capsules 10 to 2,000 μm in size in the emulsion manufacturing process and taking up about 30% to 60% of the capsules phase on a 45 μm mesh basis. In-capsule-in-water (O / C / W) formulation.

The composition of claim 1, wherein the higher fatty alcohol (or higher fatty acid) is a higher fatty alcohol, such as behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, stearyl alcohol, stearic acid and cetearyl alcohol, An emulsion composition containing higher fatty acids.

The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophobically alkyl modified thickener comprises a carbohydrate thickener wherein the alkyl group is grafted to the acrylate polymer.

[2] The method of claim 1, wherein the emulsion manufacturing process comprises a milling process using a homogenizer and a mixing process using an agitator, wherein the homo and dissolving speeds are 1,500 rpm or less and the time is within 2 minutes Wherein the agitator process is a manufacturing process including a low-speed process of less than 400 rpm as a composition for forming a crystal liquid crystal capsule in an emulsion production process, and a process for producing the same.

The emulsion composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl glyceryl further comprises higher fatty acids having 18 to 22 carbon atoms such as baccatin alcohol and xylic alcohol, and having a glyceryl group attached to the head group to contain functional higher fatty alcohols .

[2] The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic functional component that helps to improve skin is a functional group that helps improve skin that exhibits lipophilic properties such as Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Gamma linolenic acid.