KR20140055772A - Method for evaluating the applied film with the composition for skin external application - Google Patents
Method for evaluating the applied film with the composition for skin external application Download PDFInfo
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- KR20140055772A KR20140055772A KR1020120123061A KR20120123061A KR20140055772A KR 20140055772 A KR20140055772 A KR 20140055772A KR 1020120123061 A KR1020120123061 A KR 1020120123061A KR 20120123061 A KR20120123061 A KR 20120123061A KR 20140055772 A KR20140055772 A KR 20140055772A
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01B—MEASURING LENGTH, THICKNESS OR SIMILAR LINEAR DIMENSIONS; MEASURING ANGLES; MEASURING AREAS; MEASURING IRREGULARITIES OF SURFACES OR CONTOURS
- G01B21/00—Measuring arrangements or details thereof, where the measuring technique is not covered by the other groups of this subclass, unspecified or not relevant
- G01B21/02—Measuring arrangements or details thereof, where the measuring technique is not covered by the other groups of this subclass, unspecified or not relevant for measuring length, width, or thickness
- G01B21/08—Measuring arrangements or details thereof, where the measuring technique is not covered by the other groups of this subclass, unspecified or not relevant for measuring length, width, or thickness for measuring thickness
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01B—MEASURING LENGTH, THICKNESS OR SIMILAR LINEAR DIMENSIONS; MEASURING ANGLES; MEASURING AREAS; MEASURING IRREGULARITIES OF SURFACES OR CONTOURS
- G01B11/00—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques
- G01B11/02—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques for measuring length, width or thickness
- G01B11/06—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques for measuring length, width or thickness for measuring thickness ; e.g. of sheet material
- G01B11/0616—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques for measuring length, width or thickness for measuring thickness ; e.g. of sheet material of coating
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Abstract
Description
The present invention relates to a method for evaluating the state of a coated film of an external skin preparation agent, and more specifically, to a method for visually displaying the thickness of a coated film, a coated state of the composition, etc. after application of a composition for skin external application to an artificial skin .
Recently, demand for customers who want to make thinner and lighter cosmetics has become stronger, and product development is being done. However, the measurement methods for existing make-up products lacked a lot of data capable of subjective sensory evaluation and quantification, and the visible part of the information about the changed feeling of the products was few, and based on the results obtained by the researchers performing the sensory evaluation, Only subjective results on the coated film state of the product were obtained.
In addition, although such a sensory evaluation can confirm the surface state of the film coated with the product, it is difficult to obtain the result of the thickness of the film directly related to the feeling of use of the product.
Accordingly, the present inventors have provided a method for replacing a method for evaluating the state of a coating film by a conventional sensory evaluation. The present inventors applied a product to an artificial skin using a device, and cut and measured the product, It was found that this possible measurement was possible.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an evaluation method capable of objectively displaying data on the thickness of a coating film, the state of a coated surface, and the like after applying the external preparation for skin.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for preparing a skin external composition, comprising the steps of: 1) preparing a skin external composition to be evaluated; 2) applying the composition for external skin application to artificial skin using a device; 3) cutting the artificial skin and observing its cross-section with an SEM; And 4) measuring the thickness of the artificial skin to which the composition is applied.
The method of evaluating the coated film of the composition for external application of the skin provided by the present invention can display the condition and thickness of the applied film after use of the product objectively and visually so that it is possible to transmit information to the customer more promptly and easily understandable, The characteristics can be presented as objective data rather than subjective feeling results.
Fig. 1 is a photograph of a cut surface obtained by applying solid lipstick to various kinds of coated surfaces and cutting the same with SEM.
Fig. 2 is a photograph of a cut surface obtained by SEM when a solid lipstick is applied to an artificial skin by hand and when a rheometer is used.
Fig. 3 is a photograph of the cut surface obtained by SEM when the liquid cosmetic composition is applied to the artificial skin by hand and when the rheometer is used.
Fig. 4 is a photograph of a cut surface after applying solid lipstick using SEM or optical microscope. Fig.
FIG. 5 shows a state in which the solid lipstick is applied to the artificial skin and the state of application is photographed by SEM.
6 shows the results of sensory evaluation after applying the solid lipstick to the artificial skin and the frictional force and the film thickness measured using the instrument.
Fig. 7 shows a state in which the liquid foundation is applied to artificial skin and then the state of application is photographed by SEM.
The present invention relates to a method for objectively evaluating the state of a coated film after application of a composition for external application for skin, comprising the following steps.
a) preparing a skin external composition to be evaluated;
b) applying the composition for external skin application to the artificial skin using the device; And
c) evaluating the coated film state of the composition applied to the artificial skin.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
The present invention is based on the fact that the thickness of the applied film, the state of the coated film, the condition of the coated film, the spreadability and the like of the skin to which the composition is applied can be quantified objectively by applying conditions similar to the application of the external skin application composition to the actual skin, And an evaluation method.
The composition to be subjected to the evaluation method of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a composition for external application for skin, and the composition is not particularly limited to a solid or liquid state. In particular, the composition may be a makeup cosmetic composition among the composition for external application for skin.
As the material to which the product is applied in the present invention, it is preferable to use the artificial skin in consideration of the absorption power of the product, the easiness of measurement of the cut section, and the like in a state similar to a human skin.
In addition, it is possible to use a mechanism for application of a product to be evaluated or to apply it by hand, but it is preferable to use a mechanism for more accurate measurement. In particular, it is preferable to use a rheometer with a dispensing tool. In addition, if it is difficult to fix the tool directly on the rheometer, you can attach the stand next to the rheometer and fix the application tool on the stand. This is because it is difficult to uniformly apply a force when applying by hand, so that the application of the product may not be performed uniformly. In addition, the tool used for applying the product is not particularly limited as long as it is a tool for applying a common cosmetic material and includes, for example, a puff, a sponge, a vibration puff, a brush, etc., A similar finger-like tool, a rubber-made tool, or the like.
When the coating film is evaluated, the amount of the composition to be applied is not particularly limited, but it can be generally determined in consideration of the method of applying the composition, the friction force of the applied surface, and the properties such as viscosity of the composition to be evaluated.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide objective data on the surface condition of a coated film such as the thickness and uniformity of a coated film,
With regard to the thickness of the coated film, the thickness of the coated film can be measured by cutting the artificial skin coated with the product and observing it with a microscope.
At this time, the artificial skin can be cut using a cutting tool, but it is preferable to use a knife for surgical knife which has a low pressure applied to the tissue and is sharp and easy to cut.
An optical microscope and an SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) can be used to observe the coating film, but SEM is preferably used. In the case of optical microscope, it is advantageous to be able to display color, but it is difficult to distinguish the difference of the cross section due to the very low magnification factor and difficult to enlarge at a high magnification. On the other hand, in the case of SEM, it is not possible to identify the characteristics of the hue product more clearly by checking the result in black and white, but it is possible to express the finer part of the product with a very high magnification factor and thus, .
Therefore, when evaluating the coating film using SEM, the surface of the coated film on which the product is coated is coated with a material such as platinum, gold, or carbon, and then the film is taken by SEM.
Further, regarding the fixing of the sample to be photographed by the SEM, the section of the cut artificial skin is not fixed unless there is a separate supporting device, so that the middle portion of the piece made of rubber is cut and the cut end is sandwiched and fixed , And it is particularly preferable to use a rubbery material having a viscosity. Particularly, in the present invention, a portion of artificial skin is used. The artificial skin is a rubbery substance, which consists of two different layers. The upper layer occupies about 5% of the skin, similar to the skin, and the remaining 95% is a viscous rubber. When the viscous rubber portion is used, the viscous force is strong. It is strong and sample fixing is easy.
The uniformity of the coated film can be determined by the difference in the thickness of the coated film to which the product is applied. It is possible to objectively indicate whether or not the product is evenly applied by measuring the thickness of the coating film for arbitrarily selected various portions and then calculating the deviation thereof.
Further, the spreadability of the product upon application can be confirmed by measuring the frictional force of the coated film. The friction force can be measured by a method commonly used in the art, and the method is not particularly limited. In the present invention, a rheometer is used to measure the frictional force.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to test examples.
[Referential Example 1] Preparation of sample (solid state)
A makeup cosmetic composition in a solid state having the composition shown in the following Table 1 was prepared by a conventional method for producing a cosmetic.
[Reference Example 2] Preparation of sample (liquid state)
A liquid makeup cosmetic composition having the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared by a conventional method for producing a cosmetic preparation.
[Test Example 1] Selection of application surface
In order to select the material to which the product suitable for use in the method of the present invention is applied, artificial skin (IMS vitro skin®), artificial leather, wool swatch, paper, and bio skin plate are pre- Materials suitable for evaluating the characteristics of the coating film were examined.
The candidate material was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm to prepare a coated surface, and a coating surface prepared on a rheometer (CR-500DX-L, manufactured by SUN (Japan)) was attached. Then, the solid state makeup cosmetic composition L2 of Reference Example 1 was coated twice on both sides of the coated surface using a rheometer. Thereafter, the coated surface was cut with a scalpel and the cut surface was photographed with an SEM (HITACHI Corporation (Japan) S-4300). At this time, except for artificial skin, the cut surface was fixed by using a piece made of viscous layer of artificial skin. The results are shown in Fig.
As a result of examination of the section taken in Fig. 1, the cross section of artificial skin, artificial leather, wool swatch, paper, and artificial skin was most similar to actual human skin. Further, in the case of artificial leather, the coating amount is smaller than that of the other coating film of the cosmetic composition, and there is a possibility that the woven portion of the artificial leather below the coating film causes an error in the measurement of the thickness and the observation of the coated surface. In the case of paper and wool swatches, it is difficult to measure the coating film by absorbing the cosmetic composition, and in particular, in the case of wool swatches, the cross section of the wool swatch is in the form of a yarn weave. In the case of artificial skin, it is not easy to cut the section, so the sample may come out on the section, making it difficult to distinguish the section correctly. On the other hand, in the case of the artificial skin, absorption phenomenon did not occur after application of the cosmetic composition, and it was confirmed that the cut surface was clear and suitable for the cross section measurement.
Therefore, artificial skin was used as a coated surface in the following test.
[Test Example 2] Selection of application method
1. Solid make-up products.
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Next, the makeup cosmetic composition L2 of Reference Example 1 was applied to the application surface twice, reciprocally, using a rheometer or a hand. Thereafter, the coated surface was cut with a scalpel and the cut surface was photographed with an SEM. At this time, the cut surface was fixed by using a piece made of viscous layer of artificial skin. The results are shown in Fig.
As a result of examination of the cross section taken in FIG. 2, when the coating was applied by hand, the coating film was not uniform due to insufficient force adjustment, resulting in different results depending on the selected cut point, resulting in inaccurate analysis results . On the other hand, when the rheometer is used, it is possible to apply the cosmetic composition at a constant force, so that the surface of the coated film becomes uniform, so that it is easy to select the cutting point and the accurate frictional force measurement is possible.
2. Liquid make-up products.
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Then, about 0.1 g of the liquid make-up cosmetic composition H1 of Reference Example 2 was placed on the coated surface to a length of about 2 cm, and the composition was coated once and once on the application surface using a vibration puff. At this time, the vibrating puff was applied to the hand, or the 2p clamp was fixed to the stand with the support stand next to the rheometer using the clamp holder, the same vibration puff was fixed to the clamp, and the composition was applied using a rheometer. Thereafter, the coated surface was cut with a scalpel and the cut surface was photographed by SEM. At this time, the cut surface was fixed by using a piece made of viscous layer of artificial skin. The results are shown in FIG.
As a result of checking the section taken in Fig. 3, when the composition was applied by hand, the coating film was not uniform due to insufficient force adjustment. On the other hand, in the case of using a rheometer, it was possible to apply the cosmetic composition with a certain force.
Therefore, in the following test, application of the composition was carried out using a rheometer.
[Test Example 3] Selection of application frequency
1. Solid make-up products.
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Next, the makeup cosmetic composition L2 of Reference Example 1 was applied to the application surface using a rheometer. Thereafter, the frictional coefficient of the coating film surface was measured according to the number of reciprocation of the application surface by applying a rheometer. The results are shown in Table 3 below.
As can be seen from the above Table 3, the maximum stress is continuously decreased in one to three reciprocations, and a constant value is maintained up to the fourth to seventh round trips, and there is a decrease again after eight round trips In the case of the solid state composition, it was judged that it is appropriate to apply 8 reciprocating cycles.
2. Liquid make-up products.
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Next, about 0.1 g of the liquid make-up cosmetic composition H1 of Reference Example 2 was placed on the coated surface to a length of about 2 cm, and the composition was coated on the coated surface using a rheometer. Thereafter, the coefficient of frictional force on the surface of the coating film was measured according to the number of reciprocations of the coated surface at the time of application using a rheometer.
As a result of observation, the composition of the liquid state was piled up due to the characteristics of the product, and the coating film became thinner as the number of coatings was increased. Therefore, in the case of the liquid composition, it was judged to be suitable to apply one round trip.
The above results are applicable to the determination of the frictional force of the products of the compositions of Reference Example 1 and Reference Example 2, and it is possible to determine the appropriate number of applications by the above-described method according to the characteristics of the object composition.
[Test Example 4] Cutting of the coated surface
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Next, the makeup cosmetic composition L2 of Reference Example 1 was coated twice on both sides of the coated surface using a rheometer. Thereafter, the coated surfaces were cut with a knife, a scissors, a freezing section machine (Cryotome, CM1850-7-1, LEICA, Germany) and a scalpel, respectively.
As a result of examination of the cross section, the cosmetic composition appeared on the knife and the cut surface when cutting with a general knife and scissors, and morphological deformation of the artificial skin occurred. In the case of the freezing section machine, artificial skin absorbs moisture in the water soluble fixative (OCT compound) used in the process of fixing the sample for cutting, resulting in deterioration of the applied product. On the other hand, in the case of scalpel, when cutting is attempted at a high speed, unlike other methods, it is possible to cut at one time, but the product is deposited from the latter half of the application surface but the amount of the composition is very small on the scalpel and cut surface. Which is suitable for use in the present invention.
[Test Example 5] Measurement method using SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope)
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. Next, the makeup cosmetic composition L2 of Reference Example 1 was coated twice on both sides of the coated surface using a rheometer. Thereafter, the coated surface was cut with a scalpel, and the cut surface made of viscous layer of artificial skin was used to fix the cut surface, and the cut surface was photographed with SEM or optical microscope (Nikon 80i). The results are shown in Fig.
As shown in FIG. 4, the optical microscope has an advantage that the color can be expressed. However, since the enlargement magnification is very low, it is difficult to distinguish the difference in cross section, and it is difficult to enlarge the magnification at a high magnification. On the other hand, since the result of SEM is expressed in black and white, the characteristics of the color product can not be expressed in the makeup cosmetic product more easily, but the enlargement magnification is very high and the finer part in the coating film can be expressed without problems. , It can be seen that the measured values are clearly different from the optical microscope.
[Test Example 6] Measurement of film thickness of a solid make-up product (lipstick)
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the holder of the rheometer was attached. Then, using the rheometer, the solid lipstick product of Table 1 was applied to the application surface eight times reciprocally. Thereafter, the applied surface was cut with a scalpel and the cut surface was set up using a piece made of a viscous layer of artificial skin in cross-section. The surface of the coated surface was coated with platinum and then the cut surface was photographed by SEM. The observation results are shown in Fig. In addition, 15 women of 35 years old on average were given two products of L1 and L2 shown in the above Table 1, and then used the product according to the method of use. Then, the thickness of the lipstick applied (thick 1 - thin 5) 1-smooth 5) and uniformity (cohesive 1-uniform 5). The composition of Table 1 was applied to artificial skin using a rheometer, and then the frictional force of the applied film was measured using a rheometer. The film thickness of the applied film was also determined from the SEM photograph. The results of the sensory evaluation, the frictional force and the thickness of the coating film are shown in Fig.
Thickness and spreadability in sensory evaluation were similar to those of coating film thickness and frictional force in the instrument measurement, respectively.
Therefore, by using the above-described method, the sensory evaluation result after application of the composition for external application for skin can be more objectively visualized.
[Test Example 7] Measurement of film thickness of a liquid makeup product (foundation)
The artificial skin was cut into a size of 4 cm * 5 cm as a coated surface, and the coated surface prepared in the rheometer was attached. The liquid foundation H1 and the liquid foundation M1 of Table 2 were each placed on the coated surface in an amount of about 0.1 g each. The stand was installed next to the rheometer with the coated film, the vibrating puff was fixed to the stand, Was applied once and reciprocally to the application surface. Thereafter, the applied surface was cut with a scalpel and the cut surface was set up using a piece made of a viscous layer of artificial skin in cross-section. The surface of the coated surface was coated with platinum and then the cut surface was photographed by SEM. The observation results are shown in Fig.
In the case of liquid products, liquid formulations are volatilized during sample preprocessing, leaving only a solid phase. However, due to the characteristics of the product, the measurement was attempted in consideration of the fact that the liquid phase was volatilized and only the solid phase remained in the skin of the human, and it was confirmed that it exhibited relatively uniform thickness rather than the uniform makeup product.
Claims (3)
2) applying the composition for external skin application to artificial skin using a device;
3) cutting the artificial skin and observing its cross-section with an SEM; And
4) measuring the thickness of the artificial skin applied with the composition;
Wherein the coating film thickness of the external composition for skin is measured.
2) applying the composition for external skin application to artificial skin using a device;
3) selecting an arbitrary point on the artificial skin, cutting the point, and observing the cross-section with an SEM;
4) measuring the thickness of the artificial skin applied with the composition; And
5) obtaining a deviation of the measured thickness;
Wherein the method comprises the steps of:
2) applying the composition for external skin application to artificial skin using a device;
3) measuring the frictional force of the surface of the artificial skin applied with the composition; And
4) evaluating the spreadability of the applied composition from the measured frictional forces;
Wherein the external preparation for skin is applied to the skin.
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107727824A (en) * | 2017-09-22 | 2018-02-23 | 中铝瑞闽股份有限公司 | A kind of heterochromatic quick method of inspection of aluminium anode |
| WO2019045386A1 (en) * | 2017-08-28 | 2019-03-07 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | Apparatus and method for measuring coating characteristic of ultraviolet blocking agent |
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| JPH11169390A (en) * | 1997-12-15 | 1999-06-29 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Artificial skin |
| JP2002355235A (en) * | 2001-03-30 | 2002-12-10 | Kose Corp | Evaluation method for made up coat and replica agent for making up skin used therefor |
| JP2005127717A (en) * | 2003-10-21 | 2005-05-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Tactual sense meter |
| JP2006010414A (en) * | 2004-06-23 | 2006-01-12 | Kao Corp | Evaluation method of powder |
| JP2011117826A (en) * | 2009-12-03 | 2011-06-16 | Pola Chemical Industries Inc | Method for preparing cross-sectional observation sample of film of cosmetic |
| KR20120002571A (en) * | 2009-03-30 | 2012-01-06 | 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 | Method for applying external skin preparation, method for evaluating application by the method, device for evaluating the application and program for evaluating the application |
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2012
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Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JPH11169390A (en) * | 1997-12-15 | 1999-06-29 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Artificial skin |
| JP2002355235A (en) * | 2001-03-30 | 2002-12-10 | Kose Corp | Evaluation method for made up coat and replica agent for making up skin used therefor |
| JP2005127717A (en) * | 2003-10-21 | 2005-05-19 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Tactual sense meter |
| JP2006010414A (en) * | 2004-06-23 | 2006-01-12 | Kao Corp | Evaluation method of powder |
| KR20120002571A (en) * | 2009-03-30 | 2012-01-06 | 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 | Method for applying external skin preparation, method for evaluating application by the method, device for evaluating the application and program for evaluating the application |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2019045386A1 (en) * | 2017-08-28 | 2019-03-07 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | Apparatus and method for measuring coating characteristic of ultraviolet blocking agent |
| KR20190023226A (en) * | 2017-08-28 | 2019-03-08 | (주)아모레퍼시픽 | Measuring Device and Measuring Method of Coating Properties of Screening Agent |
| CN107727824A (en) * | 2017-09-22 | 2018-02-23 | 中铝瑞闽股份有限公司 | A kind of heterochromatic quick method of inspection of aluminium anode |
| CN107727824B (en) * | 2017-09-22 | 2020-05-05 | 中铝瑞闽股份有限公司 | Rapid inspection method for aluminum anode heterochrosis |
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