KR20050045322A - Composite powder with multi-function and make-up cosmetic composition comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composite powder comprising an alkyl-modified silicone compound combined with a skin lipid-like component and a natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the same, wherein the composite powder of the present invention and a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the same There is no dryness of the skin, and the feeling of use is smooth and spreadability is improved.

Description

Functional Composite Powder and Make-up Cosmetic Composition Containing the Same {Composite Powder with Multi-Function and Make-up Cosmetic Composition Comprising the Same}

The present invention relates to a powder and a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the same, and more particularly, to a composite powder comprising an alkyl-modified silicone compound bonded with a skin lipid-like component and a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the same. It is about.

Looking at the function of make-up cosmetics, it is applied to a part of the body, especially the face to cover up and conceal the flaws of the skin and to give a beautiful color, that is to correct the skin color to beautify the skin. It has the function of protecting the skin such as nutrition supply, astringent effect, moisturizing function, and skin protection from ultraviolet rays. It also has a psychologically stable function.

Makeup cosmetics can be broadly classified into base makeup groups such as foundation, makeup base, two-way cake, and face powder, and partial color cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, nail lacquer, etc. It can be classified into an oil-based type such as a make-up base, a dispersed type such as a skin cover and a lipstick, and a powder type such as a two-way cake or a face powder.

On the other hand, make-up cosmetics have a slight difference depending on the form of the formulation, but generally oily ingredients such as squalane, pigments used to color and cover skin defects, waxes to adjust the point, hardness, and moisturize the skin. It consists of an aqueous component. Among these pigments, pigments such as talc, mica, sericite, boron nitride, nylon, silica, and polymethyl methacrylate constituting the formulation, and white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc, which have excellent hiding power of skin defects, and black Iron oxides such as iron oxide, and blue pigment, yellow No. 5 aluminum lake, chromium oxide, ultramarine, statutory tar pigments, etc. can be classified into coloring pigments and the like.

In particular, pigments (powders) are different in formulation, but in cosmetics, these pigments are used as an important factor in determining the quality of makeup cosmetic products such as concealing skin defects, softness, spreadability, color effects.

More specifically, the general characteristics of the pigment (powder) is that the better the function of concealing skin defects such as titanium dioxide, zincation, etc., the more re-agglomeration occurs, causing the phenomenon of aggregation after makeup, very poor malleability It becomes a factor which lowers. On the contrary, sericite, mica, silica, etc. have excellent malleability and excellent spreadability, but are poor in adhesion and are acting as a factor for lowering the persistence of makeup. Therefore, the makeup cosmetics are essentially mixed with powder having excellent malleability and powder with excellent adhesion.

Makeup cosmetics have the required function as mentioned above. In other words, it has excellent spreadability and excellent adhesion and sustainability, and furthermore, color does not change due to sebum and moisture, that is, oil-absorption capacity of color-consistency and pigments (powder) It is required to prevent dryness that does not pull the skin after makeup.

In order to impart the above function, it has conventionally been used by surface treatment with silicon, alkylsilane, fluorine, amino acid, chitosan, metal salt and the like. However, the surface treatment with silicone, alkylsilane, etc. is effective in preventing spreading and reagglomeration, but it is not satisfactory in eliminating adhesion and dryness. When surface treatment with chitosan and metal salts, the adhesion and sustainability can be improved relatively, but it is not effective in eliminating agglomeration and reagglomeration.

Therefore, cosmetic developers who use pigments (powders) are conducting numerous studies from various viewpoints to achieve the above object.

On the other hand, in the makeup cosmetics that use a lot of pigments (powder), especially in powder formulations, the importance of the pigments is very important, softness, spreadability, powder blowing, particle aggregation, adhesion / Problems such as deterioration of persistence have been solved by recent development of surface treatment technology, but it is still unsatisfactory to solve skin dryness caused by the use of pigment (powder).

In general, in the case of skin moisturizing (preventing dryness of skin), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a hydrophilic hygroscopic substance called NMF (natural moisturizing factor), which is present in the stratum corneum, is important. Skin dryness is prevented by oily ingredients such as intercellular lipids and sebum, which prevents or controls volatilization appropriately.In cosmetics, many moisturizing agents, which are highly hygroscopic, are used, but especially in powder formulations. In the use of water-absorbing materials such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-BG and the like, there are many limitations due to particle aggregation and caking phenomenon.

Therefore, in order to prevent skin dryness in the powder formulation is generally using oily ingredients, when using a lot of these oil content is a situation that is difficult to give a light and fresh feeling that can be given in the water-soluble ingredients.

The present inventors have diligently researched to develop a composite powder capable of improving the adhesion and make-up durability while providing excellent malleability while improving the feeling of smoothness and spreading without a feeling of dryness of the skin, and resulted in spreading, re-agglomeration and softness, especially skin dryness. When using an alkyl-modified silicone compound having a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that can prevent the use of the skin lipid-like component with excellent moisture retention ability, the present invention was completed by confirming that the above-described effects can be achieved.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a composite powder.

Another object of the present invention to provide a makeup cosmetic composition.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description, claims and drawings.

According to one aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a composite powder comprising an alkyl-modified silicone compound combined with a skin lipid-like component and a natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

The inventors of the present invention have conducted research on composite powders that can improve the adhesion and make-up properties while maintaining the smoothness and spreadability without the skin dryness, and have excellent natural properties. As a result, alkyl modified silicones having a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and When using a skin lipid-like component, it was found that a composite powder having such a complex function can be prepared.

The skin lipid-like component used as an active ingredient in the composite powder of the present invention has a chemical structure identical or similar to oily components found in intercellular lipids and sebum, and serves as a barrier to inhibit the volatilization of skin moisture. The compound to be referred to collectively. Skin lipid analogous components suitable for the present invention may use any skin lipid analogous component known in the art, and preferably, phytosteryloctyldodecyllauroyl glutamate, phytosterylbihenyloctyldodecylaruloylglutamate and cholester Cholesterol-like lipids, such as rile bihenyl octyldodecylauroyl glutamate and cholesteryl octyl dodecylauroyl glutamate. Most preferably, phytosteryloctyldodecyllauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl bihenyloctyl dodecylauroyl glutamate or mixtures thereof. The content of the skin lipid-like component is generally 0.1-30% by weight based on 100% by weight of the composite powder, preferably 0.5-15% by weight, more preferably 1-8% by weight, most preferably about 3 wt%. If the content of the skin lipid-like component is less than 0.5% by weight, there is a problem that it is difficult to solve the dryness of the skin due to the use of the powder, and when it exceeds 15% by weight, there is a problem that the spreadability is lowered and reaggregation of the pigment occurs.

Another effective ingredient in the composite powder of the present invention is an alkyl-modified silicone compound bonded with a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). In the present invention, the alkyl-modified silicone having a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is to improve the spreadability, prevention of reagglomeration of the pigment, persistence of makeup, and in particular, to relieve skin dryness caused by the use of the pigment (powder).

As used herein, the term "Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)" refers to ingredients that are in skin intercellular lipids and which prevent moisture loss from skin cells. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the composite powder of the present invention can be used with any known in the art, and also includes a compound known as a natural moisturizing factor equivalent. For example, the composite powder includes ceramides, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, amino acids, linoleic acid, glycoaminoglycans, glycerin, mucopolysaccharides and pyrrolidone carboxylic acids. Most preferably, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid.

In the present invention, the silicone compound substituted (modified) by the natural moisturizing factor means a silicone polymer commonly used in the cosmetic industry. Preferably, the silicone compound is polysiloxane, most preferably dimethyl polysiloxane (dimethicone).

Alkyl modification (ie, substitution) with respect to the silicone compound is preferably performed at a ratio of 0.1-5.0 wt% of the natural moisturizing factor with respect to 100 wt% of the silicone compound.

The most preferable example of the alkyl-modified silicone compound to which the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is used in the present invention is represented by the following formula (1):

The content of the alkyl-modified silicone compound bonded with the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is generally 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-10.0% by weight, more preferably 2-10% by weight, based on 100% by weight of the composite powder. Even more preferably 3-8% by weight, most preferably about 7% by weight. If the content is less than 0.5% by weight, it is not effective to relieve spreading, reagglomeration and softness, especially skin dryness, and when it exceeds 20.0% by weight, the cosmetic moisturizing factor is improved but it is a water-soluble moisturizing factor. As the content of NMF) increases, there is a problem in that the molded product is made of slushiness and caking rather than eliminating dryness.

In addition to the two active ingredients described above, the composite powder of the present invention may contain a extender pigment commonly used in the powder. Preferably, talc, mica, sericite, boron nitride, nylon, silica, polymethylmethacrylate or a combination thereof is considered in consideration of the safety of the skin and the adhesion of the powder, and most preferably talc. The average particle size of the pigment is suitably 1-20 μm. The content of the extender pigment is generally 10-99.8% by weight, preferably 60-99% by weight, more preferably 70-95% by weight, most preferably about 90% by weight.

On the other hand, an example of the specific manufacturing process of the composite powder of the present invention is as follows:

After heating water, ethanol or a mixture thereof, 10-99 wt% of talc having an average particle size of 1-20 µm having excellent skin adhesion and moldability was added thereto, stirred and dispersed by a homomixer, and then chloride was added thereto. Let the pH be 9-12. In general, in the case of a solid pigment (powder), it exhibits a specific behavior by pH. Particularly, in the case of an oxide-based solid pigment having an isoelectric point, the surface charge of the pigment particles in the pH region higher than the isoelectric point of the pigment at the pH before and after the isoelectric point is shown. It is negatively charged and positively charged in the low pH range, although each pigment has its own isoelectric point, but is usually within the range of 2-12. Therefore, in order to change the surface charge of the pigment into a negative charge to create a condition that the material to be coated can be effectively coated, a small amount of chloride is added so that the pH of the mixed solution is 9-12. 0.5-5.0% by weight of magnesium chloride (MgCl ₂ · 6H ₂ O) is added to form magnesium ions (Mg ^{+ 2} ) to multivalent salt monovalent salt to improve the reactivity of the material to be coated. In this pigment part, 0.1-30.0% by weight of the composite powder is mixed with 0.1-30.0% by weight of the skin lipid-derived derivative having good skin affinity in the molecule for preventing skin dryness, soft usability and adhesion. And re-inject 0.1-30.0% by weight of the composite powder with an alkyl-modified silicone having a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) to improve cosmetic persistence and relieve dryness of the powder. Cool to room temperature and leave for 12 hours. After washing with water, filtration, drying with hot air and pulverizing to obtain a final composite powder.

Through the above-described series of processes, an alkyl-modified silicone compound in which the two active ingredients, a skin lipid analogous component, and a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are combined to obtain a powder coated on the surface of the sieving pigment.

The composite powder of the present invention described above has been developed for cosmetic use, and in particular, mateup cosmetic use is most suitable.

Therefore, according to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the above-described composite powder and pigment.

Makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the above-described composite powder of the present invention and pigments commonly used in the art.

Non-limiting examples of pigments used in the present invention include talc, mica, sericite, boron nitride, nylon, silica, polymethylmethacrylate, titanium mica, bentonite, acrylic resin globules, titanium oxide, iron oxide, ultramarine , Blue blue, carbon black, zinc oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium carbonate and combinations thereof.

In the makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention, the content of the composite powder is generally 1-70% by weight, preferably 1-50% by weight, more preferably 5-40% by weight, most preferably about 20% by weight.

The makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention has a two-way cake, a face powder, a compact, an emulsified foundation, a makeup base, a skin cover, an eye shadow, a cheek color, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a mascara or an eyebrow pencil formulation.

The composite powder of the present invention and the makeup cosmetic composition including the same have a smooth feeling of spreading without the dryness of the skin and the spreadability is improved, while having excellent malleability and excellent adhesion and makeup persistence.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, it is to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples in accordance with the gist of the present invention. Will be self-evident.

Example 1-3:

ingredient Content (g) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 1. Purified water 600.0 600.0 600.0 2. Ethanol 15.0 15.0 15.0 3. Talc 90.0 90.0 90.0 4. NaOH 1.0 1.0 1.0 5.MgCl ₂ · 6H ₂ O 2.0 3.0 3.0 6. Phytosteryloctyldodecylauroyl glutamate 3.0 - 1.5 7. Cholesterylbihenyloctyldodecylauroyl glutamate - 3.0 1.5 8. PCA (pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid) dimethicone 7.0 7.0 7.0

Composite powder of the present invention was prepared as follows in the component of Table 1. Ethanol was added to purified water and warmed to 80-85 ° C., then 3 raw materials were added and stirred for 30 minutes with a homomixer. Then, an appropriate amount of NaOH was added to make the pH 9-12, MgCl ₂ .6H ₂ O was added thereto, and the mixture was stirred for 15 minutes. Then, the raw material of 6 or 7 was added and stirred for 30 minutes, and the raw material of 8 was added thereto, homomixed for 30 minutes, cooled to room temperature, left to stand for 12 hours, and then washed with water and filtered for 24 hours at 80-90 ° C. It was dried and ground by a grinder.

Test Example 1: Measurement of angle of repose and dynamic friction coefficient

In general, the spreadability is examined by the angle of repose and friction coefficient, which indicates the flowability of the powder. When the angle of repose is 30-40 °, it provides a smooth feeling. The smaller the coefficient of friction, the better the spreadability. Therefore, in order to measure the angle of repose, the injection angle method was used, which measured the angle between the conical slope and the horizontal plane of the powder piled up through a funnel of constant height, and the coefficient of friction was the lateral pull-type load tester (Nikkei Densoku Co , Ltd.). The powders used below are general cosmetic pigments. The experimental results are shown in Table 2 below.

Survey item Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Talc Mica Spherical cellulose powder Nylon powder Spherical polyethylene powder Repose 30-40˚ 40-45˚ 35-40˚ 45-50˚ 55-58˚ 35-45˚ 50-54˚ 48-52˚ Dynamic friction coefficient 0.27-0.30 0.29-0.33 0.28-0.32 0.30-0.34 0.42-0.47 0.28-0.32 0.34-0.38 0.30-0.36

In the above result, it depends on the difference of repose angle and friction coefficient of powder in order to give powder spreading and smooth feel. However, as the angle of repose is 30-40˚ and the coefficient of friction is small, the spreading effect is applied smoothly and smoothly on skin. . Therefore, the composite powder of the present invention is the value that gives the most ideal angle of repose and the coefficient of friction that can be given in the cosmetics can be seen that it can be applied in a smooth and smooth spreading when applying the skin.

Examples 4-6 and Comparative Example 1: Two-Way Cake

The functional composite powder of the present invention was introduced into a two-way cake product to find out its use as a makeup cosmetic composition. The composite powders prepared in Examples 1, 2, and 3 were used as Samples 1, 2, and 3, respectively. Examples 4, 5, and 6 were used, and the existing products were used as comparative examples. Items such as persistence and dry skin were investigated.

ingredient Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 1 Talc To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2. Titanium Dioxide 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 3. Seriside 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 4. Calcium Carbonate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 5. Silica 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 6. Sample 1 20.0 - - - 7. Sample 2 - 20.0 - - 8. Sample 3 - - 20.0 - 9. Iron Oxide q.s q.s q.s q.s 10. Ultramarine q.s q.s q.s q.s 11. Liquid paraffin 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 12. Lanolin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 13. Hexyllaurate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 14. Dimethicone 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 15.preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s 16.Spice q.s q.s q.s q.s

Two-way cake was prepared as follows. 1) The raw material 1-10 was ground by mixing once. 2) The raw materials 11-16 were heated to 80 ° C. Subsequently, 1) and 2) were slowly sprayed to be mixed, dispersed and pulverized.

Test Example 2: Comparison of Use Effect

In order to investigate the effect of using the composite product of the present invention as an example of comparison with the existing product, 50 women of 20-35 years old were compared and evaluated after actual use for 20 days, and the average value of the result was calculated. (See Table 4).

Example Softness Dry skin Adhesion Toilet paper Spreadability Average Example 4 4.1 4.1 4.0 4.2 4.2 4.12 Example 5 4.3 3.9 4.2 3.9 3.8 4.02 Example 6 4.2 4.0 4.1 4.0 4.0 4.06 Comparative Example 1 3.1 3.0 3.0 3.2 3.3 3.12

The scores in Table 4 above were calculated based on the following criteria: 5 points, very good; 4 points, good; 3 points, moderate; 2 points, bad; 1 point | piece: Very bad. However, in skin dryness, 5 points are dry, and 1 point is very dry.

As a result, it was found that the formulation using the composite powder according to the present invention exhibited excellent quality in all items such as softness, dry skin, fit, makeup sustainability and spreadability.

Example 7 and Comparative Example 2: Face Powder

The functional composite powder of the present invention was introduced into a face powder product, and the composite powder made in Example 1 was used as Sample 4, and the product was introduced as Example 7 and the existing product was made into Comparative Example 2. Items such as, blooming (coloring) and dry skin were examined.

ingredient Example 7 Comparative Example 2 Talc To 100 To 100 2. kaolin 5.0 5.0 3. Calcium Carbonate 3.0 3.0 4. Nylon-12 4.0 4.0 5. Sample 4 20.0 - 6. Yellow Iron Oxide q.s q.s 7. Red Iron Oxide q.s q.s 8. Liquid paraffin 1.5 1.5 9. Preservative q.s q.s 10. Spices q.s q.s

The face powder was prepared as follows. 1) The raw materials 1-7 were ground by mixing once. 2) The raw material 8-10 was heated to 70 degreeC. 2) was slowly sprayed into 1), mixed, dispersed and ground.

Test Example 3: Comparison of Use Effect

The face powders prepared in Example 7 and Comparative Example 2 were compared to actual consumers in the same manner as the two-way cake, and the average values of the results are shown in Table 6.

Example Softness Dry skin Adhesion Spreadability Blooming (Color) Average Example 10 4.6 4.4 4.4 4.3 4.1 4.36 Comparative Example 2 3.6 3.1 3.4 3.4 3.3 3.36

The score in Table 6 is calculated on the same criteria as the score in Table 4.

As can be seen from the above results, it can be seen that the face powder product containing the composite powder prepared in the present invention is much superior to the product without the same, and in particular, softness, adhesion and dry skin Got.

As described above, the functional composite powder composition and the makeup cosmetic containing the same according to the present invention have good skin affinity for a body pigment having an average particle size of 1-20 micrometers in consideration of skin safety and adhesion of powder. Surface treatment of alkyl-modified silicones with natural moisturizing factor (NMF) to remove dryness of lipid-like derivatives and powders is excellent in softness and malleability, and also excellent adhesion. Providing functions such as prevention will improve the quality of the product.

As described in detail above, the present invention provides a composite powder and a makeup cosmetic composition comprising the same. The composite powder of the present invention and the makeup cosmetic composition including the same have a smooth feeling of spreading without the dryness of the skin and the spreadability is improved, while having excellent malleability and excellent adhesion and makeup persistence.

Claims (11)

A composite powder comprising an alkyl-modified silicone compound having a skin lipid-like component and a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). According to claim 1, wherein the skin lipid-like component is phytosteryl octyldodecyllauroyl glutamate, cholesteryl bihenyl octyl dodecyl lauroyl glutamate, phytosteryl bihenyl octyl dodecylaruloyl glutamate and cholesteryl octyl dodecila Composite powder, characterized in that one or a mixture of two or more selected from the group consisting of uroyl glutamate. The method of claim 1, wherein the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) bound to the alkyl-modified silicone compound is pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, amino acids, linoleic acid, A composite powder, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of glycoaminoglycans, glycerin and mucopolysaccharides. The composite powder according to claim 1, wherein the silicone compound is polysiloxane. The composite powder according to claim 1, wherein the content of the skin lipid-like component is 0.1-30% by weight. The composite powder according to claim 1, wherein the content of the alkyl-modified silicone compound to which the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is bound is 0.1-30% by weight. The composite powder according to claim 1, wherein the composite powder is used for makeup cosmetics. Makeup cosmetic composition containing the composite powder and pigment of any one of the said Claims 1-7. The method of claim 8, wherein the pigment is talc, mica, sericite, boron nitride, nylon, silica, polymethyl methacrylate, titanium mica, bentonite, globules of acrylic resin, titanium oxide, iron oxide, ultramarine blue, bluish blue, carbon A mate-up cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of black, zinc oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium carbonate and combinations thereof. The makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the content of the composite powder is 1-50% by weight. The method of claim 8, wherein the makeup cosmetic composition is characterized in that it has a two-way cake, face powder, compact, emulsified foundation, makeup base, skin cover, eye shadow, cheek color, lipstick, lip gloss, mascara or eyebrow pencil formulation. Makeup cosmetic composition.