KR20040067710A - Water-free typed anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: Provided is a non-aqueous emulsion wrinkle removal cosmetic composition which involves aging stability and easy usage, and exerts excellent wrinkle removal effect. CONSTITUTION: The non-aqueous emulsion wrinkle removal cosmetic composition comprises 0.05-10wt.% of retinoid, 50-95wt.% of silicon elastomer, and 5-40wt.% of silicon-based oil. The retinoid is selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. The silicon elastomer is dimethicone cross polymer.

Description

Water-free typed anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles, and more particularly, to a non-emulsifying cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles, which is not only excellent in stability over time of retinoids but also excellent in feeling of use and wrinkle improvement.

Wrinkles are formed by repetitive movement of muscles in a specific direction for a long time, affected by age, external environment, UV irradiation, etc., and particularly related to changes between dermis and epidermis due to skin aging.

Vitamin A and its derivatives (retinoids) are known to be the most effective in removing wrinkles. Retinoid is a generic term for vitamin-A or its derivatives, such as retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, etc. It is known to exert the effect of wrinkle removal through (Raoul Hermitte. "Agecd Skin, Retinoids, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids" Cosmetics & Toiletries ., Vol . 107, Jul. 1992 pp63-67). It is also reported to be effective in improving photoaging (Webb et al. "Topical Tretinoin Improves Photoaged Skin", JAMA, 259, Vol. 4, Jan. 22/29, 1988, pp95, 527-532).

In order to effectively exhibit the efficacy of such retinoids, the retinoids must be chemically stabilized in cosmetics.

As a general method for containing retinoids in cosmetics, there are oil-in-water (O / W) cosmetic compositions containing, for example, retinoid acid in the oil phase and protecting the retinoids with oil-soluble antioxidants. The oil-in-water (O / W) type cosmetic composition can be easily washed from the skin without being slippery compared to the water-in-oil (W / O) type cosmetic composition, and also has a good feeling and is generally used. However, since the retinoids contained in these compositions are easily oxidized and turned into inactivated compound forms, over time the content of retinoids showing useful efficacy gradually decreases, and the efficacy gradually decreases. In an effort to reduce the chemical instability of such retinoids, US Pat. No. 4,826,828 discloses a cosmetic composition in which retinol is stabilized in an oil-in-water (W / O) type of emulsion. However, water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion compositions did not solve the problem of chemical instability of retinoids to water.

Meanwhile, Korean Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 1999-40578 and the like disclose a liquid crystal gel formulation containing a retinoid as a formulation for improving stability over time of the retinoid. However, these formulations are not used directly as cosmetics due to the feeling of use, but are added to the emulsion and thus are preserved as oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion compositions. Thus, these cosmetics also do not ultimately solve the problem of chemical instability of retinol in water.

Therefore, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for non-emulsifying wrinkle improvement that is not only excellent in the stability of the retinoid over time, but also excellent in use and wrinkle improvement effect.

1 is a graph showing the wrinkle improvement effect of the cosmetic composition according to the Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention.

In order to achieve the above technical problem, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for improving non-hydrating wrinkles comprising 0.05 to 10% by weight of retinoid, 50 to 95% by weight of silicone elastomer and 5 to 40% by weight of silicone oil.

In the cosmetic composition for non-aqueous wrinkle improvement according to the present invention, it is preferable to use a dimethicone cross polymer as the silicone elastomer.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a non-emulsifying cosmetic composition that does not use water to solve the chemical instability of the retinoid with respect to water. Retinoids contained in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a term for vitamin-A or derivatives thereof, for example, retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl palmi Tate may be used alone or in combination thereof. Retinoids are preferably included in 0.05 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the content is less than 0.05% by weight, wrinkle reduction through collagen synthesis enhancement, cell regeneration, etc. is insignificant, and when the content exceeds 10% by weight, there is a risk of skin side effects.

As the silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition for removing wrinkles according to the present invention, a volatile silicone oil and a nonvolatile silicone oil may be used alone or mixed with each other. Examples of the volatile silicone oil include cyclomethicone, and examples of the nonvolatile silicone oil include dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, and the like. The retinoid dissolved in the silicone oil is added to a silicone elastomer such as dimethicone cross polymer and emulsified. Silicone elastomers not only have the ability to form gels, stabilize active ingredients, and control transdermal absorption, but also exhibit a silky smooth feel. Such silicone elastomers include various cross polymers as disclosed in Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2001-001325, and in particular, a dimethicone cross polymer such as DC 9010, DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9042, DC 9045, etc. of Dow Corning Corporation is used. It is desirable to. Such silicone elastomers are readily available from related companies.

In the non-aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention, the content of the silicone elastomer and the silicone oil is 50 to 95% by weight and 5 to 40% by weight, respectively. Outside the above range, the feeling of use may be reduced, or the non-aqueous formulation containing the retinoid may become unstable.

In addition to the above components, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be further added to the cosmetic composition according to the present invention if necessary, such as antioxidants, lower alcohols, pigments, preservatives, fragrances.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the present invention should not be construed as limited to the embodiments described below. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more completely explain the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Examples 1-4

According to the composition of Table 1, dimethicone copolyol, glycerin, colorant, preservative, and flavoring agent were added to the dimethicone crosspolymer at room temperature for 20 minutes, followed by stirring in a paddle mixer, and then a raw material in which retinol was dissolved in dimethicone oil was added. A non-emulsified wrinkle cosmetic composition was prepared by emulsifying for 15 to 20 minutes under conditions of a homomixer 1000 to 3500 RPM.

Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Dimethicone Crosspolymer Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Dimethicone Copolyol 2 2 2 2 glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Coloring, preservative, flavoring Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Dimethicone 10 10 10 10 Retinol 0.05 0.5 5 10

In Table 1, the units used are in weight%, retinol was purchased from BASF, dimethicone crosspolymer is Dow Corning's product DC 9010, and dimethicone copolyol is Shin-Etsuchu. It is Shin-Etsu product KF-6017.

Comparative Examples 1 to 3

Comparative Examples 1 to 3 prepared oil-in-water emulsions according to a general method of simply combining retinol. First, the aqueous phase and the oil phase were dissolved by heating to 70 to 75 ℃, respectively, and then the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase. Retinol was added to the mixture and emulsified for 8 to 10 minutes under conditions of a homomixer at 4000 to 6000 RPM, and then cooled to 30 ° C to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion.

division Raw material name Comparative example One 2 3 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Triethanolamine 0.3 0.3 0.3 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 Concentrated glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 Propylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paid Cetostearyl alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan monostearate 0.3 0.3 0.3 POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Isocetil Myristate 7.0 7.0 7.0 Isocetyloctanoate 5.0 5.0 5.0 Spices 0.1 0.1 0.1 additive Retinol 0.05 0.5 5.0

In Table 2, the unit of the numerical value used is by weight, the carboxyvinyl polymer is Carbopol 940 (BFGoodrich), Carbopol 940, sorbitan monostearate is US ISI (ICI). It is a product Alascel 60, PIO (20) sorbitan monostearate is a product Tween 60 of Isaiah, USA, and the isocetyl myristate is the ISI M-R of Nikko, Japan. (ICM-R), and isocetyloctanoate is the product ICEH of Nihon kokyu alcohol of Japan.

Comparative Examples 4 to 6

Comparative Examples 4 to 6 prepared a water-in-oil emulsion according to a general method of simply combining retinol. First, the aqueous phase and the oil phase were respectively dissolved by heating to 60 to 65 ° C., and then the aqueous phase was slowly added while mixing the oil phase at a homomixer 2500 to 3000 RPM. Retinol was added to the mixture, emulsified for 8 to 10 minutes under the condition of 5000-6500 RPM homomixer, and cooled to 30 ° C to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.

division Raw material name Comparative example 4 5 6 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Concentrated glycerin 10.0 10.0 10.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paid Dimethicone 15.0 15.0 15.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0 1.0 1.0 Spices 0.1 0.1 0.1 additive Retinol 0.05 0.5 5.0

In Table 3, the units used are in weight percent, dimethicone copolyol is Shin-Etsu product KF-6017 (KF-6017), and sorbitan sesquioleate is a product of Isaiah, USA. Arlacel 83.

The cosmetics according to the above Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated as follows by dividing them into items of time-lapse stability, wrinkle improvement effect, and feeling of use.

Evaluation of Stability of Retinoids with Time

The stability over time of the retinol contained in the products prepared according to the above Examples and Comparative Examples was evaluated as follows. The products of Examples and Comparative Examples were stored in opaque containers at room temperature (25 ° C.) and high temperature (40 ° C.), and the content change of retinol over time was quantified by HPLC (High Performance Liquid Chromatography) to determine the remaining amount. %) Is shown in Table 4 below.

Storage temperature term Example Comparative example One 2 3 One 2 3 4 5 6 25 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 60 55 47 75 70 60 4 Weeks 100 100 100 55 45 40 58 54 50 8 Weeks 100 100 100 30 28 25 40 35 30 16 Weeks 99 99 99 15 10 7 22 19 15 40 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 50 45 40 65 57 46 4 Weeks 100 100 100 37 33 31 45 40 38 8 Weeks 99 97 97 16 12 12 25 22 20 16 Weeks 98 96 95 0 0 One 5 4 2

As can be seen from the results shown in Table 4, the non-aqueous cosmetic composition of Examples 1 to 3 can be seen that even after 16 weeks at room temperature and high temperature, the content change of the retinol is almost the same as the initial content. On the other hand, the cosmetics of the comparative example made of conventional emulsions were slightly more stable than the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. You can see that it is not good.

<Wrinkle improvement effect>

In order to evaluate the skin wrinkle improvement effect of the products according to the Examples and Comparative Examples, the skin wrinkle state change was measured by using an image analyzer. A sample of Example 3, Comparative Example 3, and Comparative Example 6 were divided into three portions of 30 healthy males and females. Twice a day during the day and did not do anything else. After the last treatment, a new phase analysis was performed 12 hours later and measured, and the rate of skin wrinkle reduction is shown in FIG. 1.

As shown in Figure 1, the cosmetic composition of Example 3 containing a non-aqueous formulation than the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 3 and 6 containing retinol as a general emulsion of water-in-oil (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) It can be seen that the wrinkle improvement effect is excellent.

<Evaluation of feeling>

Examples 1 and 3 and Comparative Examples 1, 3, 4, and 6 were evaluated for the application to the application and absorbency. That is, after using each sample for 30 female consumers in their 20s and 40s, the sensory evaluation was performed five kinds of very good, slightly good, moderate, slightly bad, and very bad, and the results are shown in Table 5 below. It was.

Rating = [(very good) number X (2) + (slightly good) number X (1) + (normal) number X (0) + (slightly bad) number X (-1) + (very bad) number X ( -2)] / Evaluations

Item sample Very good Slightly good usually Slightly worse Very bad grade Application (silky) Example 1 9 11 6 4 - 0.83 Example 3 11 12 4 3 - 1.03 Comparative Example 1 One 4 12 9 4 -0.37 Comparative Example 3 - 3 15 10 2 -0.36 Comparative Example 4 3 6 11 8 2 0 Comparative Example 6 One 7 13 7 2 -0.06 Absorbency (sticky) Example 1 10 12 7 One - 1.03 Example 3 8 16 5 One - 1.03 Comparative Example 1 2 7 14 5 2 0.06 Comparative Example 3 - 2 18 7 3 -0.37 Comparative Example 4 4 8 10 5 3 0.17 Comparative Example 6 One 6 15 6 2 0.13

As shown in Table 5, the samples of Examples 1 and 3, which are non-aqueous formulations, showed better overall usability, such as application and absorption, than samples of Comparative Examples, which are general emulsions. On the other hand, the general emulsion has a greater degree of stickiness as the retinol content increases, and when containing more than 5% by weight of retinol, the formulation is unstable, such as the separation of the formulation was difficult to manufacture.

As described above, the anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a non-hydrating type, and has excellent stability over time for retinoids, and can be effectively used for a long time, and is less sticky and smooth, so it is excellent in feeling and has an excellent wrinkle improvement effect.

Claims (3)

Retinoid 0.05 to 10% by weight, silicone elastomer 50 to 95% by weight and silicone-based oil 5 to 40% by weight of the cosmetic composition for non-hydrating wrinkles, characterized in that made. The method of claim 1, wherein the retinoid is any one selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl palmitate and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition for non-hydrating wrinkle improvement. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer is dimethicone cross polymer.