KR102563508B1 - Oil in water type cosmetic composition containing stabilized high oil content - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized by including a hydrophobic-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) type polymer. The water-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized according to the present invention contains a high content (10 to 60% by weight) of oil, but is gradually increased with a HEUR type polymer instead of a thickener to change the size of the high content oil particle By minimizing, the oil is effectively stabilized, and a transparent or translucent appearance and fresh application can be maintained.

Description

Water-in-water cosmetic composition with high oil content stabilized {OIL IN WATER TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING STABILIZED HIGH OIL CONTENT}

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized by including a hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) type polymer.

In general, cosmetics are commercialized in various types and formulations, and in particular, cosmetics having a high-viscosity emulsified cream pack property generally contain water and use a surfactant to disperse a high content of oil, and artificially A viscosity modifier is used to create the desired viscosity and formulation.

Techniques for dispersing or encapsulating a certain amount of oil in an inner phase are generally composed of an oil-in-water emulsion phase. It is usually made in the form of a liquid, and in order to have viscosity, a viscosity modifier must be physically added to obtain a desired viscosity. From the point of view of the composition containing oil in the inner phase, the oil content used in cosmetics having the properties of an emulsified cream can be said to be less than 1% by weight and as much as 30% by weight in formulated formulations. Cleansing creams and massage creams with special functions contain a large amount of oil, ranging from 20% to 50% by weight, but looking at their composition, fatty acid waxes, fatty alcohols, Contains a polymeric viscosity modifier.

Cosmetics containing a large amount of oil include oil cleansers and ampoule concentrates that use natural vegetable oil as it is on the skin. It is not a form to be

In the case of such an oil-in-water nanoemulsion containing a high content of oil in the existing inner phase, the viscosity modifier is applied as described above. There was a limit to being.

Republic of Korea Patent Registration No. 10-1687608 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2016-88868

The present invention includes a hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) type polymer (hereinafter, abbreviated as 'HEUR type polymer') instead of a conventional viscosity modifier, in water containing a high content of oil. In the type nanoemulsion cosmetic composition, it is intended to provide an oil-in-water oil-in-water nanoemulsion cosmetic composition that minimizes the change in oil particle size and maintains a transparent or translucent appearance unique to nanoemulsion and a refreshing application property.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is an oil gel containing a plant-derived surfactant and an oil component; And it provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising a HEUR type polymer.

The water-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized according to the present invention contains a high content (10 to 60% by weight) of oil, but is gradually increased with a HEUR type polymer instead of a thickener to change the size of the high content oil particle By minimizing, the oil is effectively stabilized, and a transparent or translucent appearance and fresh application can be maintained.

Figure 1 shows a picture comparing the transparency and appearance of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 according to Test Example 1.

Hereinafter, the oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized according to the present invention will be described in detail.

The names of the compounds referred to in this specification are the International Nomenclature Cosmetic (INCI) listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (ICID) published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA), unless otherwise specified. Ingredient) Name, and if the name does not exist among the INCI Names, it means a compound according to the IUPAC nomenclature established by the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC), If a compound according to the IUPAC nomenclature does not exist, it means a compound corresponding to the name of a compound commonly used in the art of the present invention.

In the present specification, the oil in water (O/W) type means an emulsion formulation in which the continuous phase is an aqueous phase and the dispersed phase is an oil phase, and the "oil component" is insoluble in water, and is not soluble in oil or solvents. A substance that has the property of being soluble.

The composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized, and is a composition in the form of a transparent or translucent gel cream.

In particular, the water-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention uses a hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) type polymer instead of a conventional thickener, effectively stabilizing a high content of oil in the composition, and has a transparent or translucent appearance and refreshing application. can keep

The oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of oil is stabilized according to the present invention includes an oil gel containing a plant-derived surfactant and an oil component; and a HEUR type polymer.

In one embodiment of the present invention, for the desired effect, the oil gel contains the oil component in a high content, particularly in an amount of 10 to 60% by weight based on the total weight of the oil gel, thereby not only reducing moisture It provides moisturizing and radiance, which are the unique characteristics of oil ingredients. If the oil component is contained in less than 10% by weight, it is not possible to provide the moisturizing power and gloss of the oil component, and the shape retention of the gel cannot be realized due to the low viscosity, and if it exceeds 60% by weight, it is difficult to secure long-term stability of the formulation The feeling of use is reduced because the feeling of moisture of the composition is reduced.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is formulated as an oil-in-water type to provide a refreshing feeling while containing the oil component in a high content, and is particularly formulated in a transparent or translucent gel cream form.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil gel may be prepared using a high-pressure emulsification method as one means for stabilizing the oil component.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the plant-derived surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucoside surfactants and methyl glucose sesquistearate; And a polyglyceryl surfactant is mixed and used. The polyglyceryl-based surfactant used in the present invention can effectively pack an interface membrane due to its large hydrophilicity, and the alkyl glucoside-based surfactant has a high HLB value of 9 to 19, which can effectively reduce the particle size. In addition, methyl glucose sesquistearate used in the present invention is a mixture of methyl glucoside and stearic acid monoesters and diesters, and can effectively stabilize oil particles. Rather than using only one type of polyglyceryl surfactant, as described above, by using a combination of different types of surfactants, smaller oil particles can be stabilized for a long period of time.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyglyceryl surfactant is one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate. More than one may be used, but is not limited thereto.

In one embodiment of the present invention, cetearyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C10-16 alkyl glucoside, etc. may be used as the alkyl glucoside-based surfactant, but is not limited thereto.

Preferably, in one embodiment of the present invention, the oil gel contains at least one selected from the group consisting of a polyglyceryl surfactant as a plant-derived surfactant, an alkyl glucoside surfactant, and methyl glucose sesquistearate, more preferably Preferably, two or more are used in combination, and most preferably, a mixture of polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, and cetearyl glucoside may be used.

For the desired effect in one embodiment of the present invention, the oil gel contains the plant-derived surfactant in an amount of 0.10 to 0.20 parts by weight based on 1 part by weight of the oil component. If the content is less than 0.10 parts by weight, oil-soluble component particles of 200 nm or less are not formed, so the composition is suspended or the viscosity is low, so the feeling of use is not differentiated from general emulsions. It is not preferable to obtain the physical properties of the desired formulation because it exhibits a cream-like appearance and the texture is hard, so the feeling of use is masked.

Also, preferably, one or more of the alkyl glucoside surfactant or methyl glucose sesquistearate is used in an amount of 0.01 to 0.40 parts by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 0.34 parts by weight, based on 1 part by weight of the polyglyceryl surfactant. Mix and use. More preferably, 0.01 to 0.17 parts by weight of alkyl glucoside surfactant and 0.01 to 0.17 part by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed and used with respect to 1 part by weight of polyglyceryl surfactant. Most preferably, 0.01 to 0.17 parts by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate and 0.01 to 0.17 parts by weight of cetearyl glucoside are mixed and used with respect to 1 part by weight of polyglyceryl surfactant.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil component has a melting point of 30 ° C. or higher and solid phase components including fats, waxes, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, hydrocarbons, etc. in a solid state at room temperature; or one or more selected from liquid components including oil, ester, ether, hydrocarbon, and the like.

Specifically, examples of the solid component include fats such as shea butter, mango seed butter, and cacao seed butter; waxes such as myristyl myristate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, jojoba, sunflower seed, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and beeswax; higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol; higher fatty acids such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid; and hydrocarbons such as ceresin; Include etc. In addition, as the liquid component, for example, natural oils such as meadowfoam seed oil, sunflower seed oil, macadamia seed oil, green tea seed oil, ginger oil, ginseng oil, coconut oil, olive oil and camellia oil; esters such as phytosteryl/octyldodecyllauroylglutamate, isostearylisostearate, methylheptylisostearate, dicaprylylcarbonate and isopropyl palmitate; ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; silicone oils such as dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, trisiloxane and methyltrimethicone; and hydrocarbons such as squalane and the like.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the HEUR type polymer includes, for example, PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether (PEG-240/HDI copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth 20 Ether), PEG -150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer (PEG-150/DECYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER) or steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer (STEARETH-100/PEG-136/HDI COPOLYMER) can be used. , preferably a mixture of PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeces 20 ether and PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer.

At this time, for the desired effect, the PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeces 20 ether and the PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer have a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:7 (PEG-240/ HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether: PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer). When the ratio of PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer to PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether is less than 1:1, the flowability is not good and the flotation and spreadability of the gel deteriorate. As a cream formulation, the feeling of use is reduced. In addition, when the ratio of PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer to PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeces 20 ether is greater than 1:7, the feeling of use is reduced due to reduced elasticity and moisture.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain an appropriate amount of auxiliary components such as polyol, ethanol, extracts, functional ingredients, colorants, fragrances, neutralizers, and preservatives commonly used in the preparation of oil-in-water cosmetics.

Hereinafter, the contents of the present invention will be described in more detail with examples and test examples. However, these examples are only intended to specifically describe the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples, and modifications, substitutions, and insertions commonly known in the art can be performed, This is also included in the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7]

The oil-in-water cosmetics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared with the compositions shown in Table 1 below. weight%).

turn ingredient name Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Comparative Example 7 One oil gel To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2 polyol 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 3 PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER 0.08 0.12 - - - - 0.16 - 0.03 4 PEG-150/DECYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER 0.50 0.46 - - - - 0.15 0.90 0.55 5 Carbomer - - 0.20 - - - - - - 6 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE VP COPOLYMER - - - 0.20 - - - - - 7 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer - - - - 0.20 - - - - 8 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER - - - - - 0.20 - - - 9 corrector 1.05 0.96 0.14 - 0.14 - 0.35 1.75 0.39

turn ingredient name oil gel One Purified water To 100 2 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 3.20 3 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 0.40 4 Cetearyl Glucoside 0.20 5 Mixtures of oil components such as hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, natural oils or silicone oils 25.00 6 antiseptic 0.20 7 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.05 8 polyol 8.10 9 ethanol 5.00 10 Spices 0.17

<Manufacturing method>

1) An oil-in-water emulsion was prepared using the raw materials 1 to 10 in Table 2 above.

2) After degassing the emulsion of step 1), an oil gel was prepared by applying a pressure of 3 cycles or more at 1000 bar using an M-110EH-30 Microfluidizer® Processor (Microfluidics Co.).

3) In a separate container, PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeces 20 ether polymer was dispersed in the aqueous phase at a concentration of 2% by weight, heated to about 70 ° C, and mixed with a homomixer to obtain PEG-240 / HDI copolymer. A 2% aqueous solution of the polymer bis-decyltetradeces 20 ether was prepared.

4) To the oil gel of step 2), PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether 2% by weight aqueous solution and polyol of step 3) were added and mixed using a homomixer.

5) PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer was added to the mixture of step 4) and mixed with a homomixer.

6) A neutralizing agent was added to the mixture of step 5) to neutralize the PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer to increase the viscosity, and a final cosmetic composition was prepared.

< test example 1> Physical property evaluation test

The physical properties of the oil-in-water cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were evaluated for particle size of the oil component, transparency and appearance of the composition. Particle size was measured using a Malvern Zen 3600 Zentasizer. The results are shown in Table 3 and FIG. 1 below.

Particle size (nm) Transparency and Appearance Example 1 141.8 transparent gel cream Example 2 145.2 transparent gel cream Comparative Example 1 392.2 white cream Comparative Example 2 195.5 white cream Comparative Example 3 310 white cream Comparative Example 4 193.4 white cream Comparative Example 5 130 transparent gel cream Comparative Example 6 127.7 transparent gel cream Comparative Example 7 138.2 transparent gel cream

From the results of Table 3 and FIG. 1, in the case of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 containing a conventional thickener that is not a HEUR type polymer, it can be confirmed that the particle size of the oil particles increases and the turbidity increases, and the present invention and In the case of Comparative Examples 5 to 7 containing the same HEUR type polymer, they were formulated in the form of a transparent gel cream and had the desired physical properties, but as examined in Test Example 2 below, Comparative Examples 5 to 7 were formulated in the form of a transparent gel cream. As a case where the mixing ratio of the HEUR type polymer was out of range, it was confirmed that the feeling of use was not good.

In contrast, Examples 1 and 2 according to the present invention were stabilized with a small particle size of oil particles and formulated into a transparent gel cream form, and as examined in Test Example 2 below, it was confirmed that the feeling of use was also excellent.

< test example 2> feeling of use assessment test

In order to evaluate the feeling of use of the water-in-water cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7 formulated in the form of a transparent gel cream in Test Example 1, the skin of 10 subjects in Example 1, After applying the compositions of 2 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7, the items of floatability, spreadability (ease of application) and stickiness were evaluated on a 9-point scale. The results are shown in Table 4 below ([Evaluation score] 1 point/---: worst, 9 points/+++: best).

friability spreadability stickiness Total feeling of use Example 1 7 7 6 +++ Example 2 6 6 7 +++ Comparative Example 5 3 2 8 + Comparative Example 6 4 5 One -- Comparative Example 7 5 5 3 -

From the results of Table 4 above, although both types of HEUR type polymers according to the present invention were included, the PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer for the bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether polymer, the PEG-240/HDI copolymer In the case of Comparative Example 5 in which the polymer ratio was less than 1:1, it was confirmed that the feeling of use was not suitable as a gel cream formulation due to poor floating and spreadability.

In addition, among the two types of HEUR-type polymers according to the present invention, only PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer was included, or PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether polymer was compared to PEG-150/ In the case of Comparative Examples 6 and 7 containing an excessive amount of decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer exceeding a ratio of 1:7, it was confirmed that the feeling of use was very poor due to severe stickiness.

On the other hand, in the case of Examples 1 and 2 containing the two types of HEUR type polymers according to the present invention in a mixing ratio of 1:1 to 1:7, the feeling of use was greatly excellent in all items of floatability, spreadability, and stickiness. I was able to confirm.

< test example 3> Formulation stability comparison test

The stability of the oil-in-water cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was evaluated by the degree of separation of the compositions over time.

The water-in-water cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were stored for 4 weeks in a thermostat set at a temperature of -15 ° C, 5 ° C, 30 ° C, 45 ° C or 60 ° C, and each cosmetic composition every week The stability of the composition was observed. At this time, the cosmetic composition stored at -15 ℃ was thawed at room temperature every week to observe the stability, and then frozen again. The observation results are shown in Table 5 below.

temperature -15℃ 5℃ 30℃ 45℃ 60℃ Example 1 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Example 2 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Comparative Example 1 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Week 1 Separation Comparative Example 2 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Week 2 Separation Comparative Example 3 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Week 1 Separation Comparative Example 4 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Week 2 Separation Comparative Example 5 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Comparative Example 6 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable Comparative Example 7 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable 4 weeks stable

From the results of Table 5, in the case of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 containing a conventional thickener that is not a HEUR type polymer, a phenomenon in which the composition was separated at a high temperature of 60 ° C. was observed, indicating poor formulation stability. there was.

In contrast, in the case of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7 including the HEUR-type polymer according to the present invention, it was confirmed that the stability of the formulation was maintained stably for a period of 4 weeks regardless of the storage temperature.

Summarizing the results of Test Examples 1 to 3, in the case of Examples 1 and 2 containing the two types of HEUR type polymers according to the present invention in a mixing ratio of 1:1 to 1:7, the particle size of the oil particles is small. It was stabilized in the state and formulated in the form of a transparent gel cream, and the formulation was stably maintained regardless of the storage temperature, and it was confirmed that the feeling of use was also very good.

As above, specific parts of the present invention have been described in detail, and for those skilled in the art, it is clear that these specific descriptions are only preferred embodiments, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereby. something to do. Accordingly, the substantial scope of the present invention will be defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (11)

Oil gel containing a plant-derived surfactant and an oil component; And a hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) type polymer as an active ingredient An oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising,
The hydrophobic-modified ethoxylated urethane type polymer is a mixture of PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth 20 ether and PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:7. Characterized in that the mixture, oil-in-water cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the plant-derived surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucoside surfactants and methyl glucose sesquistearate; And a polyglyceryl-based surfactant, characterized in that consisting of oil-in-water cosmetic composition. The method of claim 2, wherein the polyglyceryl surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate. To, oil-in-water cosmetic composition. The method of claim 2, wherein the alkyl glucoside-based surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetearyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside and C10-16 alkyl glucoside, characterized in that, Water-type cosmetic composition. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the plant-derived surfactant is a mixture of polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate and cetearyl glucoside. The water-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the plant-derived surfactant is used in an amount of 0.10 to 0.20 parts by weight based on 1 part by weight of the oil component. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil component is contained in an amount of 10 to 60% by weight based on the total weight of the oil gel. The method of claim 1, wherein the oil component is fat including shea butter, mango seed butter, and cocoa seed butter; waxes including myristyl myristate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, jojoba, sunflower seed, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and beeswax; higher alcohols including cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol; higher fatty acids including caprylic/capric triglycerides, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid; hydrocarbons including ceresin; natural oils including meadowfoam seed oil, sunflower seed oil, macadamia seed oil, green tea seed oil, ginger oil, ginseng oil, coconut oil, olive oil and camellia oil; esters including phytosteryl/octyldodecyllauroylglutamate, isostearylisostearate, methylheptylisostearate, dicaprylylcarbonate and isopropyl palmitate; ethers including dicaprylyl ether; silicone oils including dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, trisiloxane and methyltrimethicone; And at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons including squalane, oil-in-water cosmetic composition. delete delete The oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a transparent or translucent gel cream.