KR101566627B1 - Two-layer circular knit having excellent elasticity and process of producing thereof - Google Patents
Two-layer circular knit having excellent elasticity and process of producing thereof Download PDFInfo
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- KR101566627B1 KR101566627B1 KR1020140090364A KR20140090364A KR101566627B1 KR 101566627 B1 KR101566627 B1 KR 101566627B1 KR 1020140090364 A KR1020140090364 A KR 1020140090364A KR 20140090364 A KR20140090364 A KR 20140090364A KR 101566627 B1 KR101566627 B1 KR 101566627B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
- D04B9/06—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods
- D04B9/08—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods for interlock goods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
- D04B9/26—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
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Abstract
Description
본 발명은 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를 표면사로, 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로, 양면환편기로 환편한 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것이다.TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a twisted circular knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, which is made of a cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn as a surface yarn, a sweat-absorbent quick-drying polyester DTY yarn as a backing yarn and a double-sided circular knitting machine.
전세계적으로 의류용 섬유산업에 있어서 친환경, 고감성, 고기능성 의류에 대한 소비자들의 요구의 증가로 기능성에서 감성적, 고급스러움 측면과 인체친화적 측면을 표현할 수 있는 트렌드로 변화되고 있으며, 이러한 특징은 천연섬유에 대한 고차적인 특성에 착안하여 개발되어 오고 있다.With the increase in consumer demand for environmentally friendly, high-sensitive and high-function clothing in the textile industry worldwide, the trend is changing from functional to trends that express emotional, luxury and human-friendly aspects, And has been developed based on high-order characteristics of fibers.
천연섬유에 대한 의류용 소재로는 주로 면, 텐셀, 라미, 린넨, 햄프, 울 등이 사용하고 있으며, 천연의 고유한 색상과 천연스러운 느낌이 우수하기 때문에 소비자들의 소재선택의 주목을 받고 있으며 천연섬유에 대한 용도가 다양하기 때문에 소비량과 신제품 개발에 많은 연구가 지속되고 있는 실정이다.Cotton, tencel, ramie, linen, hamp, wool, etc. are used as clothing materials for natural fibers. Due to their natural color and natural feeling, they are attracting attention from consumers. Because of the diversity of uses for fibers, much research has been continuing on the consumption and development of new products.
이러한 천연섬유에 대한 고급스러움과 우아한 색감, 흡수력, 피부 접촉시 편안한 느낌 부여로 의류용 시장에 중요한 소재로 선택되어 사용되고 있는데, 소재에 대한 생산결과에 따라 가격이 상승하고, 기후와 온도, 계절에 영향에 따라 작황이 변동함으로써 수요와 공급에 예측을 할 수 없는 현실에 봉착하게 되었다.These natural fibers are selected and used as an important material for the clothing market because of their luxury, elegant color, absorbency, and comfortable feeling when they are in contact with the skin. The price increases depending on the production result of the material, As the effects of the crops fluctuated, the demand and supply became unpredictable.
한편, 폴리에스테르 소재에 대해서 최근에는 천연섬유가 발현하지 못하는 기능성 측면으로서 면섬유보다 우수한 흡수성과 탁월한 속건성, 항균성, 소취성, 자외선 차단 등 다양한 기능성발현 원사들이 개발되고 있다. On the other hand, functional functional yarns that are superior in absorbability and excellent quick drying property, antibacterial property, deodorizing property, ultraviolet ray blocking and the like have been developed as functional aspects that polyester fiber can not express natural fibers in recent years.
화학섬유의 경우 80~90년대의 활발한 선진기술의 이전과 자체 연구소 설립 등으로 극세사와 기능성 원사 등의 차별화된 합섬소재 개발능력은 세계적인 수준이지만, 상대적으로 천연 및 재생섬유를 활용한 방적기술 및 방적사와 관련된 연구개발은 상당히 미흡한 실정이다.In the case of chemical fibers, the ability to develop differentiated synthetic materials such as microfiber and functional yarn is at a global level due to the transfer of advanced technologies in the 1980s and 1990s and the establishment of its own research institute. However, Research and development related to
주로 데님, 셔츠 및 캐주얼 의류 등 시각적인 감성이 요구되는 제품에 사용되는 팬시얀 방적사의 경우 국외에서 수입한 특수사 제조설비를 이용하여 한정된 패턴의 슬럽사 제품만 개발되고 있어 상대적으로 인건비가 낮고 방적설비가 많은 중국 및 개도국 시장과의 경쟁에서 밀려나고 있는 실정이며, 이러한 특수사 설비로 제조된 슬럽사 및 팬시얀은 일정한 패턴만을 표현하여 소비자들의 감성을 충족시키기엔 한계가 있었다.In the case of Fancy yarn spinning yarn mainly used for products requiring visual sensitivity such as denim, shirt and casual clothes, only a limited pattern of slip yarn products is developed using a special yarn manufacturing facility imported from abroad, It is a fact that the equipment is being pushed out of the competition with the markets of China and developing countries. The slushers and fancy yarns manufactured with these special equipment have a limit to satisfy consumers' emotions by expressing only certain patterns.
기존의 천연섬유 중 면, 텐셀, 모달 등의 방적사들은 링 방적기 및 MVS 방적기를 사용하여 단사나 합사 위주의 제품들을 생산 판매하고 있으며, 이를 이용하여 의류 제품이나 인테리어 생활용 제품의 섬유제품을 개발, 판매되고 있는 실정이었으나, 기존의 방적사의 경우 슬러브 패턴이 슬럽(Slub)과 피치(Pitch)의 변화로 구성되어 단조로운 형태로 구성되어졌다. 과거의 단일 패턴의 슬럽(Slub)에서 여러 번수의 Multi-slub로 최근에는 역 Slub Pattern으로 점차 발전되어 왔으나, 이를 이용한 환편물의 개발이 미진하여 신축성있는 환편물의 개발이 시급한 실정이었다.Cotton yarns such as cotton, tencel, and modal are produced and sold by using ring spinning machine and MVS spinning machine, mainly for single yarn or yarn, and develop and sell textile products for apparel products and interior living products However, in the case of the conventional spinning yarn, the slub pattern is formed in a monotonous shape composed of changes in slub and pitch. In recent years, the number of multi-slub in the single slub of a single pattern has been gradually increased to the reverse slub pattern. However, development of the circular knitted fabric using the knitted fabric has been urgently required.
그러므로 본 발명에서는 신축성 PTT의 조사와 면 및 텐셀 소재의 조사를 배합하여 방적함으로서 One Side 염색시 멜란지 톤의 임펙트를 부여할 수 있고 천연섬유의 감성을 가지는 핸드필을 가지며, 신축성 및 흡한속건성의 특징을 가져 여성복 용도로 널리 사용할 수 있는 이중직환편물을 제공하는 것을 기술적 과제로 한다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to impart a melange tone impact when one side is stained by blending the irradiation of the elastic PTT with the irradiation of the cotton and the tencel material, and has a handpill with a sensibility of natural fibers, To provide a double-woven circular knitted fabric which can be widely used for women's wear.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를 표면사로, Therefore, according to the present invention, a cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn is applied to the surface yarn,
흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로 사용하여 루프장 12~16cm, 환편속도 15~20rpm의 조건으로 30~36인치/22~28게이지의 양면환편기로 환편한 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물의 제조방법이 제공된다.
A twisted circular knitted fabric excellent in stretchability characterized by using a sweat-absorbable, quick-drying polyester DTY as a backing yarn and having a loop length of 12 to 16 cm and a circular speed of 15 to 20 rpm, Is provided.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 이중직환편물은 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를 표면사로, 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로 사용하여 양면환편기로 환편한 이중직환편물로서 천연섬유와 같은 핸드필과 신축성, 항균성, 자외선차단성, 흡한속건성이 우수한 이중직환편물이다.The double-knit circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-knit circular knitted fabric made of a double-side circular knitting machine using a cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub spun yarn as a surface yarn and a quick-drying polyester DTY yarn as a backing yarn, It is a double knit circular knitted fabric with excellent peel and stretchability, antibacterial properties, ultraviolet barrier property and sweat-absorbing and quick-drying property.
본 발명의 이중직환편물의 구성원사는 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사와 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사로서, 표면사로는 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를, 이면사로는 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 사용한다.The member of the double-knit circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a quick-drying polyester DTY yarn swollen with a cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn, and a cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn , Quick-drying polyester DTY yarn sucked on the back.
표면사로 사용되는 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사는 면섬유, PTT파이버(fiber) 및 텐셀파이버의 복합사이로슬럽방적사로서 면/ptt/텐셀의 중량비 20:30:50인 것을 사용하여 방적사의 표면잔털이 적어 섬도가 균일하여 환편물의 촉감이 매끄러우며, 신축성이 우수하면서도 면과 텐셀의 함유에 따른 천연섬유의 자연스러운 촉감이 발현되고 One Side 염색시 멜란지 톤을 부여할 수 있도록 한다. 상기 ptt(Polytrimethylene Terephthalate) 파이버는 저수축부분과 고수축부분이 접합된 이형단면 복합 파이버로서 신축성이 우수한 파이버로서 상기 복합사이로슬럽방적사의 신축성을 보완하게 된다.Cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn used as surface yarn is a composite yarn of cotton, PTT fiber and tencel fiber yarn with a weight ratio of cotton / ptt / tencel of 20:30:50 The surface smoothness of the circular knitted fabric is smooth and the stretchability is excellent, the natural feel of the natural fibers due to the inclusion of cotton and tencel is expressed, and the melange tone can be given in the one side dyeing . The polytrimethylene terephthalate (ptt) fiber is a modified cross-section composite fiber having a low shrinkage portion and a high shrinkage portion joined together, and is excellent in stretchability, thereby completing the stretchability of the composite shrinkage spun yarn.
면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사는 섬도 20~25수(Ne), 강력 500~560cN, 신도 6~9%인 것을 사용함으로써 타 복합사 사용시 대비 필링성을 향상 시키고, 천연감성의 터치감과 내츄럴한 효과를 부여할 수 있다.Cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub spinning yarns have a fineness of 20 to 25 (Ne), 500 to 560 cN of strong, and 6 to 9% of elongation, It is possible to give sensibility touch and natural effect.
이면사로 사용되는 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사는 인비스타사의 쿨맥스, 효성사의 에어로쿨, 코오롱사의 쿨론 등을 사용하여 드로오텍스쳐링한 섬도 70~140d/34~68F인 DTY사로서 탄력성 및 흡한속건성이 우수하여 본 발명의 이중직환편물의 이면부를 형성하여 흡한속건성을 발휘하는 한편 환편물전체를 신축성이 우수하게 할 수 있다. Sweat-absorbent quick-drying polyester DTY which is used as backside yarn is DTY yarn with 70-140d / 34 ~ 68F fineness, which is draw-textured using INVISTA's Coolmax, Hyosung's Aero Cool and Kolon's coolon. The back side of the double-cut circular knitted fabric of the present invention is formed to exhibit sweat-absorbent quick-drying property, and the entire circular knitted fabric can be made excellent in stretchability.
이렇게 본 발명에서는 상기 표면사 및 이면사를 사용하여 루프장 12~16cm 환편속도 15~20rpm의 조건으로 양면환편기로 환편하여 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물을 제조하게 된다. 환편기는 사도입부 84 feeders이고, 30~36인치/22~28게이지인 양면환편기를 사용하고, 특히 후라이스(fraise) 조직으로 제조하는 것이 바람직하다. 환편에서는 루프장으로 편물의 밀도를 조정하는데 루프장이 길수록 밀도가 낮고(중량이 낮고), 루프장이 짧을수록 밀도가 높다(중량이 높다). 본 발명에서는 상기의 표면사 및 이면사를 투입하여 루프장을 표면사 12.5cm, 이면사 14cm로 조절하는 것이 적정한 밀도의 환편물을 편직하기에 바람직하다.Thus, in the present invention, the surface yarn and the backing yarn are circularly knitted using a double-sided circular knitting machine under the conditions of a loop length of 12 to 16 cm at a circular velocity of 15 to 20 rpm to produce a twisted circular knitted fabric having excellent stretchability. The circular knitting machine is preferably a feeder of a yarn introduction part, and it is preferable to use a double-sided circular knitting machine with a 30 to 36 inch / 22 to 28 gauge, especially a fraise structure. In circular knitting, the density of knitted fabric is adjusted by loop length. The longer the loop length, the lower density (lower weight) and the shorter loop length (higher weight). In the present invention, it is preferable that the surface yarn and the weft yarn are knitted to adjust the loop length to 12.5 cm of the surface yarn and 14 cm of the weft yarn to knit the circular knitted fabric having an appropriate density.
이렇게 본 발명에 의하면, 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를 표면사로, 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로 사용하여 루프장 12~16cm로 양면환편기로 환편된 것을 특징으로 하는 천연섬유의 감성의 핸드필을 가지며, 신축성, 항균성, 자외선차단성 및 흡한속건성의 특징을 가지는 이중직환편물을 제공할 수 있다.According to the present invention, the fast-drying polyester DTY yarn sucking the cotton / ptt / Tencel composite yarn with Siro-Slub yarn into a surface yarn is used as a backing yarn, and the yarn is circularly wound with a double- It is possible to provide a double-knit circular knitted fabric having a hand feeling of natural fibers and having characteristics of stretchability, antibacterial property, ultraviolet barrier property and sweat-absorbing quick drying property.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 One Side 염색시 멜란지 톤을 부여할 수 있고, 천연섬유의 감성을 가지는 핸드필을 가지며, 신축성, 항균성, 자외선차단성 및 흡한속건성의 특징을 가져 여성복 용도로 널리 사용할 수 있는 이중직환편물을 제공할 수 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to give a melange tone when staining one side, having handfeel having sensibility of natural fibers, and having a characteristic of stretchability, antibacterial property, ultraviolet barrier property and sweat- A circular knitted fabric can be provided.
도 1은 본 발명의 이중직환편물의 표면사진이며,
도 2는 본 발명의 이중직환편물의 표면사의 구성섬유 중 하나인 ptt 필라멘트의 단면현미경사진이다.1 is a photograph of the surface of a double-cut circular knitted fabric of the present invention,
2 is a cross-sectional micrograph of a ptt filament, which is one of the constituent fibers of the surface yarn of the double-cut circular knit fabric of the present invention.
다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 이중직환편물을 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples illustrate non-limiting examples of producing the double-ring circular knitted fabric of the present invention.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
면/ptt/텐셀의 중량비율이 20/30/50(%)이고 신도 7%, 강력 553cN이고 섬도 20수(Ne)인 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사를 표면사로, 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사(쿨맥스 DTY, 70d/34fila)를 이면사로 공급하여 표면사 12.5cm, 이면사 14cm, 환편속도 15rpm의 조건으로 사도입부 84 feeders이고, 36인치/28게이지인 양면환편기로 환편하여 이중직환편물을 제조하였다. 제조된 환편물의 물성은 표 1에 나타내었다.A surface / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn with a weight ratio of cotton / ptt / tencel of 20/30/50 (%) and an elongation of 7%, a strength of 553 cN and a fineness of 20 (Ne) A sweat-absorbent, quick-drying polyester DTY (Coolmax DTY, 70d / 34fila) was supplied to the backing yarn, and the yarn feeder was 84 feeders under the conditions of a surface yarn of 12.5 cm, a backing yarn of 14 cm and a circular speed of 15 rpm. To produce a double-knit circular knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the produced circular knitted fabric.
Claims (3)
흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로 사용하여 루프장 12~16cm, 환편속도 15~20rpm의 조건으로 30~36인치/22~28게이지의 양면환편기로 환편한 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물의 제조방법. Cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn to surface yarn,
A twisted circular knitted fabric excellent in stretchability characterized by using a sweat-absorbable, quick-drying polyester DTY as a backing yarn and having a loop length of 12 to 16 cm and a circular speed of 15 to 20 rpm, ≪ / RTI >
상기 면/ptt/텐셀 복합사이로슬럽(Siro-Slub)방적사는 섬도 20~25수(Ne), 강력 500~560cN, 신도 6~9%이고, 상기 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사는 70~140d/34~68f 흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사 인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물의 제조방법. The method according to claim 1,
The cotton / ptt / tencel composite Siro-Slub spun yarn has a fineness of 20 to 25 number (Ne), a high strength of 500 to 560 cN and an elongation of 6 to 9% 68f succulent quick-drying polyester DTY yarn.
흡한속건성 폴리에스테르 DTY사를 이면사로 사용하여 루프장 12~16cm로 양면환편기로 환편된 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성이 우수한 이중직환편물.
Cotton / ptt / TENCEL composite Siro-Slub yarn to surface yarn,
Characterized in that the sweat-absorbing, quick-drying polyester DTY yarn is used as a backing yarn and is looped in a double-sided circular knitting machine at a loop length of 12 to 16 cm.
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KR20190023477A (en) * | 2017-08-29 | 2019-03-08 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability |
KR102018990B1 (en) * | 2018-07-30 | 2019-09-06 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Density Knit Having Excellent Sweat-absorption and Rapid-drying Function And Blocking Transmission |
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KR102377606B1 (en) | 2021-05-12 | 2022-03-23 | 김종섭 | Structure for knitting double-layer circular knit with excellent cooling efficiency |
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CN113981598A (en) * | 2021-10-25 | 2022-01-28 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | A kind of ice-smooth and high-elastic knitted fabric and its weaving method |
CN115233350A (en) * | 2022-07-28 | 2022-10-25 | 吉首诚成纺织有限公司 | Single-strand slub siro spinning slub yarn |
KR102526652B1 (en) | 2022-11-17 | 2023-04-28 | (주)웰크론 | Knitting structure of cold-sensitive triple weave circular knitted fabric with improved air-permeability |
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