KR101398742B1 - Process Of Producing Cellulose Diacetate/Nylon Composite Fabrics Having Exellent Stretch And Water―Washability - Google Patents
Process Of Producing Cellulose Diacetate/Nylon Composite Fabrics Having Exellent Stretch And Water―Washability Download PDFInfo
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- KR101398742B1 KR101398742B1 KR1020120100887A KR20120100887A KR101398742B1 KR 101398742 B1 KR101398742 B1 KR 101398742B1 KR 1020120100887 A KR1020120100887 A KR 1020120100887A KR 20120100887 A KR20120100887 A KR 20120100887A KR 101398742 B1 KR101398742 B1 KR 101398742B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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Abstract
본 발명은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로 하고 스판덱스사에 나일론사를 커버링하여 얻어진 커버링사를 위사로 하여 제직된 직물을 알칼리로 처리하는 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 본 발명에 의해 염료 선정 폭이 넓도록 하고 견뢰도를 향상시키는 한편, 물세탁이 가능하고 스판덱스를 사용하여 신축성이 좋은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬직물을 제공할 수 있다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a cellulose diacetate / nylon mixed fiber fabric by treating a fabric woven with a covering yarn obtained by covering the cellulose diacetate yarn with a shear yarn and covering the spandex yarn with nylon yarn as a weave, with an alkali. It is possible to provide cellulose diacetate / nylon hybrid fiber cloth which is wide in the selection width of the dye and improves the fastness, and which is water-washable and has good stretchability by using spandex.
Description
본 발명은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로 하고 스판덱스사에 나일론사를 커버링하여 얻어진 커버링사를 위사로 하여 제직된 직물을 알칼리로 처리하는 스트레치성이 우수하고 물세탁이 가능한 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cellulose diacetate / nylon fibrillated fabric excellent in stretchability and capable of washing with water, which is obtained by treating a fabric woven using a covering yarn obtained by covering cellulose diacetate yarn with a nylon yarn on a spandex yarn, And a manufacturing method thereof.
아세테이트 섬유는 셀룰로오스 성분으로부터 만들어지는 섬유로서 그 자체가 천연섬유인 실크 또는 재생섬유인 레이온과 매우 유사한 직물 특성을 가지는데, 아름다운 광택을 가지고 가볍고 드래이프성, 흡윤성과 건조성이 우수하여 천연섬유에 버금가는 많은 장점을 가지고 있음에도 불구하고 수축이 잘안되고 강도가 약하다는 단점 때문에 아세테이트 섬유 단독으로는 주로 양복의 안감으로만 사용하고 있어 용도 전개에 많은 제약을 받고 있다.Acetate fiber is a fiber made from a cellulose component and has very similar fabric properties to natural rayon such as silk or regenerated fiber. It has a beautiful luster and is lightweight, drapeable, It is difficult to shrink and the strength is weak. Acetate fiber alone is used mainly as a lining of clothes, and thus it is limited in application development.
이러한 용도 제약을 해결하기 위해서 폴리에스테르, 나일론 섬유와 같이 강도가 큰 타 소재와의 복합사를 만들어 강도를 보강하는 한편, 안정성, 내구성, 드래프트성을 좋게 할 수가 있다.In order to solve such a usage limitation, a composite yarn with another material having a high strength such as polyester or nylon fiber is made to reinforce the strength, and the stability, durability and draftability can be improved.
또한, 아세테이트 섬유는 분자구조상 소수화되어 있어 사슬간의 친화력이 부족하여 염착력과 강도가 낮아 염색가공 방법 중 프린트염색가공이 힘들며 물세탁이 불가능한 단점을 가지고 있어 이의 단점을 보완하기 위해 검화(Saponification)처리를 하여 아세테이트 직물의 기존 장점을 보존하면서 표면 형태 및 성능의 변화를 발생시켜 상기 단점을 보완하는 방법을 많이 행하고 있다.In addition, the acetate fibers are hydrophobic due to their molecular structure, and their affinity between chains is low, so that the dyeing process is difficult to perform in dyeing processing methods due to low salt strength and strength, and water washing is not possible. In order to compensate for these disadvantages, saponification And the conventional advantages of the acetate fabric are preserved while changing the shape and performance of the surface.
대한민국등록특허제10-0818824호에서는 나일론 6 및 나일론 6.6 섬유를 효과사로 하고, 치환도 2.0~2.75의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유를 심사로 하는 이수축 혼섬사를 긴장 열처리하는 공정, 긴장열처리된 혼섬사로 직물을 제직하는 공정, 제직된 직물을 알칼리 처리하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 레이온화 하는 공정을 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 레이온과 나일론 혼섬 직물의 제조방법을 제시하고 있는데, 상기 선행기술은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트 섬유의 감량율이 34%나 되어 신도도 감소하여 신축성이 나쁜 문제점이 있다. 특히, 신축성을 향상시키기 위하여 스판덱스를 합연이나 커버링한 실로 제직한 직물의 경우에는 스판덱스사의 이염에 의한 염색성 문제로 날염제품을 적용을 하기가 어려운 문제점을 갖고 있으며, 여전히 물세탁이 불가능한 문제점을 가지고 있었다. Korean Patent No. 10-0818824 discloses a process for heat-treating a shrinkable filament yarn which is obtained by inspecting cellulose diacetate fibers having a substitution degree of 2.0 to 2.75 with
따라서 본 발명에서는 종래기술의 문제점인 염료종류의 제약을 극복하여 염색견뢰도가 향상되고 스트레치성이 우수하고 물세탁이 가능한 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬직물의 제조방법을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a cellulose diacetate / nylon blended woven fabric capable of overcoming the restriction of the dye type, which is a problem of the prior art, to improve dye fastness and stretchability and to wash water.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로 하고 스판덱스사에 나일론사를 커버링하여 얻어진 커버링사를 위사로 하여 직물을 제직한 후, 제직된 직물을 알칼리로 처리하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 검화하는 것을 특징으로 하는 스트레치성이 우수하고 물세탁이 가능한 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물의 제조방법이 제공된다.Therefore, according to the present invention, a fabric is woven using a covering yarn obtained by covering a cellulose diacetate yarn with a nylon yarn and a spandex yarn as a warp, and then the woven fabric is treated with an alkali to saponify the cellulose diacetate yarn A method for producing a cellulose diacetate / nylon mixed yarn fabric excellent in stretchability and capable of washing with water is provided.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 스트레치성이 우수하고 물세탁이 가능한 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물의 제조방법은 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로 하고 스판덱스사에 나일론사를 커버링하여 얻어진 커버링사를 위사로 하여 직물을 제직한 후, 제직된 직물을 알칼리로 처리하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 검화하는 것이다.The method for producing a cellulose diacetate / nylon mixed fiber having excellent stretchability and water washability according to the present invention comprises weaving a fabric with covering yarn obtained by covering cellulose diacetate yarn with a nylon yarn on a spandex yarn, , And the woven fabric is treated with an alkali to saponify the cellulose diacetate yarn.
본 발명의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물에 사용되는 실은 치환도 2.0~2.75의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로, 스판덱스사에 나일론사를 커버링하여 얻어진 커버링사를 위사로 사용하는데, 상기 위사는 섬도 20 ~ 70d의 스판덱스사에 섬도 30 ~ 240d/12 ~ 96fila의 나일론사를 450 ~ 800 T/M 으로 커버링한 커버링사를 사용하여 스트레치성을 우수하게 할 수 있다. The yarn used in the cellulose diacetate / nylon fiber of the present invention is a covering yarn obtained by covering cellulose acetate diacetate yarn having a substitution degree of 2.0 to 2.75 with a nylon yarn in a spandex yarn as a weft yarn, 70d of spandex yarn and 30 to 240d / 12 to 96 yarn of nylon yarn covering 450 to 800 T / M, can be used for excellent stretchability.
상기 스판덱스사를 함유하는 직물은 스트레치성은 우수하나 산성염료나 분산염료에 의해 이염현상이 생겨 염색견뢰도가 떨어지는 문제점이 있어 후술할 알칼리처리를 함으로써 염색성을 개선하게 된다.The fabric containing the spandex yarn is excellent in stretchability, but has a problem in that dyeing phenomenon is caused by the acid dye or the disperse dye, and the dyeing fastness is lowered, so that the dyeing property is improved by the alkali treatment to be described later.
셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물의 알칼리처리는 알칼리 처리시 알칼리 처리온도를 30~55℃로 하고, 처리시간을 240~360분으로 하며, 알칼리농도를 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사 대비 30~50중량%로 하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트의 감량율이 20 ~ 30 % 가 되도록 하는 것이 바람직하다.The alkaline treatment of the cellulose diacetate / nylon fusible fabric is carried out in such a manner that the alkali treatment temperature is 30 to 55 ° C, the treatment time is 240 to 360 minutes, and the alkali concentration is 30 to 50% by weight relative to cellulose diacetate It is preferable that the weight loss rate of cellulose diacetate is 20 to 30%.
특히, 아세테이트섬유는 알칼리 용액에서 처리하면 아세틸기(-CH3CO)가 수산기(-OH)로 치환되어 본래의 셀룰로오스 구조로 바뀌면서 섬유표면이 친수화 되면서 섬유의 물성이 변화되는데, 이를 통해 아세테이트 섬유는 본래의 물성을 그대로 유지하면서 표면은 레이온화되는 특성이 있다. 그러나 내부까지 레이온화되면 섬유가 경화되고 수축되면서 강도가 저하되는 문제가 있다. 본 발명에서는 직물에 사용하는 스판덱스/나일론 커버링사의 손상 및 경화를 유의하고 스판덱스사의 이염문제를 해결하기 위하여 스판덱스사에는 염색이 되지 않는 반응성염료에 의한 염색을 할 수 있도록 하는데, 본 발명에서와 같이 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트의 감량율이 20 ~ 30 % 가 되도록 검화(Saponification)하여 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트의 반응성염료에 대한 염색성을 향상시키는 것이다. Particularly, when the acetate fiber is treated in an alkali solution, the acetyl group (-CH 3 CO) is replaced with a hydroxyl group (-OH) and converted into an original cellulose structure, the fiber surface is hydrophilized and the physical properties of the fiber are changed. Has the property that the surface is rayonized while maintaining the original physical properties. However, if the inside is rayonized, there is a problem that the fiber is hardened and contracted and the strength is lowered. In the present invention, damage and curing of spandex / nylon covering yarn used in fabrics are considered and yarn dyeing of spandex yarn is performed in order to solve the problem of spandex yarn dyeing. In the present invention, (Saponification) so that the weight loss rate of diacetate is 20 to 30%, thereby improving the dyeability of the cellulose diacetate to the reactive dye.
이렇게 알칼리처리가 완료된 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬 직물은 수세 및 건조를 거쳐 완성되는데, 보다 강한 스트레치성을 주기위해서는 상기 알칼리 처리후에 래피드가공으로 축소시키고 폭을 고정시켜 염색시 불량을 방지하기 위해 셋팅가공을 한 후 래피드염색하여 유연제가공을 한 후 수세하는 것이 좋다.The cellulose acetate diacetate / nylon mixed fiber fabric having been subjected to the alkali treatment is washed and dried, and in order to impart stronger stretchability, the alkali is reduced after the alkali treatment, and the width is fixed. In order to prevent defects during dyeing, And then washed with water after processing with a softener by rapid dyeing.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 합연사로 제직된 직물을 알칼리 처리하여 고유광택 및 터치가 우수한 아세테이트의 물성을 유지하면서도 반응성 염료로 염색가능하여 염색견뢰도를 향상시켜 신축성이 우수한 스판덱스사의 이염문제를 해결하여 스트레치성이 우수하고 물세탁이 가능한 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬직물을 제공할 수 있었다.Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to dye the dye with a reactive dye while retaining the property of acetate excellent in intrinsic gloss and touch, by alkali treatment of the fabric woven with cellulose diacetate / nylon composite yarn to improve dye fastness, It was possible to provide a cellulose diacetate / nylon hybrid fiber fabric which is excellent in stretchability and can be washed with water.
도 1 내지 도 4는 본 발명에 의해 제조된 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬직물의 물성시험성적서이다.1 to 4 are physical property test reports of a cellulose diacetate / nylon blended fabric produced by the present invention.
이하 다음의 실시 예에서는 본 발명의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트/나일론 혼섬직물의 제조방법에 대한 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples illustrate non-limiting examples of the process for preparing the cellulose diacetate / nylon blended fabrics of the present invention.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
섬도 120d/32fila의 셀룰로오스 디아세테이트사를 경사로, 스판덱스 40d를 섬도 70d/24fila의 나일론사로 커버링한 실을 위사로 사용하여 래피어직기로 총경사본수 13,000본, 경사밀도 197본/인치, 위사밀도 88본/인치, 성폭(in) 71.82인치, 가공폭 (in)44/45인치, 중량 250.33g/yd로 하여 사틴조직으로 제직한 후, 제직된 생지를 C.P.B 에 투입하여 35 ℃ × 35 m/분으로 정련하고, 검화를 위하여 NaOH 처리농도(50% -> 40 WT%) 과 시간(240분이상)과 온도(40℃)로 처리하여 디아세테이트가 감량율이 23%가 되도록 알칼리 처리하였다.Yarn covered with cellulose diacetate yarn of 120d / 32fila in fineness and nylon yarn of 70d / 24fila of fineness in spandex 40d was used as weft, and the number of copies in the total number of copies was 13,000, the warp density was 197 bones / inch, the weft density was 88 The woven fabric was weighed in a satin fabric at a bore / inch, a wideness (in) of 71.82 inches, a processing width (in) of 44/45 inches and a weight of 250.33 g / And treated with NaOH treatment concentration (50% -> 40 WT%) and time (240 min.) And temperature (40 ℃) for saponification, so that diacetate was alkali treated so that the weight loss rate was 23%.
알칼리처리후 수세기에서 60℃ × 35 m/분 2회 조건으로 수세를 하고, JIGGER에서 98℃ × 4시간조건으로 바탕 염색을 진행하고 가공에서 180℃ × 30m/분 드라이후 날염 진행하였다. 제조된 직물의 물성시험을 하여 다음과 같이 표시하였다.After the alkali treatment, the substrate was washed with water at 60 DEG C x 35 m / min twice, and subjected to background dyeing under the condition of 98 DEG C x 4 hours in JIGGER, followed by 180 DEG C x 30 m / min in the processing, followed by printing. The fabrics were tested for physical properties and displayed as follows.
division
(Dimensional Stability To Hand Washing :
ISO 5077:2007/ISO 6330:2000/AMD. 1:2008(E))Dimensional stability
(Dimensional Stability To Hand Washing:
ISO 5077: 2007 / ISO 6330: 2000 / AMD. 1: 2008 (E))
-0.5%
-0.5%
-0.5%
-0.5%
division
(Colorfastness to Perspiration :ISO 105 E04:2008)Sweat fastness
(Colorfastness to Perspiration: ISO 105 E04: 2008)
(Colorfastness to Actual Hand Washing)Wash fastness
(Colorfastness to Actual Hand Washing)
4-5급
4-5
division
(Colorfastness to Rubbing : ISO 105 X12:2001)Friction fastness
(Colorfastness to Rubbing: ISO 105 X 12: 2001)
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Citations (4)
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JPH06330470A (en) * | 1993-05-25 | 1994-11-29 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Production of novel woven or knitted fabric containing acetate fiber |
JPH06341066A (en) * | 1993-05-28 | 1994-12-13 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Processing method for acetate fiber-containing woven or knit fabric |
JP2000303326A (en) | 1999-04-23 | 2000-10-31 | Kanegafuchi Chem Ind Co Ltd | Elastic fabric and elastic yarn |
KR20050083372A (en) * | 2004-02-23 | 2005-08-26 | 한국섬유개발연구원 | Method for producing fine denier covering yarn for stretch mixture fabrics |
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JPH06330470A (en) * | 1993-05-25 | 1994-11-29 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Production of novel woven or knitted fabric containing acetate fiber |
JPH06341066A (en) * | 1993-05-28 | 1994-12-13 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Processing method for acetate fiber-containing woven or knit fabric |
JP2000303326A (en) | 1999-04-23 | 2000-10-31 | Kanegafuchi Chem Ind Co Ltd | Elastic fabric and elastic yarn |
KR20050083372A (en) * | 2004-02-23 | 2005-08-26 | 한국섬유개발연구원 | Method for producing fine denier covering yarn for stretch mixture fabrics |
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