KR100917988B1 - Cosmetic composition containing Lithospermum erythrorhizon extracted by supercritical fluid extraction - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition imparting a color of a makeup product using a high concentration of natural pigments. More specifically, the cosmetic composition of the present invention relates to a lip cosmetic composition containing a natural herbaceous root component extracted by the supercritical extraction method, the present invention improves the fatal shortcomings of the existing natural pigment that was unstable in heat and sunlight to produce a high temperature It provides excellent daylight stability due to daily UV and excellent color development.

Supercritical Extraction * Natural Color * High Temperature Manufacturing Stability * Daylight Stability * High Coloring * Lip Cosmetic

Description

Cosmetic composition containing licospertic extract extracted by supercritical extraction method {Cosmetic composition containing Lithospermum erythrorhizon extracted by supercritical fluid extraction}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition imparting the color of a makeup product by using a high concentration of natural pigments, and more particularly to a lip cosmetic composition containing a herbicidal natural pigment component extracted by a supercritical extraction method.

Recently, as the idea of lip makeup is based on healthy lips, the demand for natural materials in color as well as the natural ingredients of makeup is increasing. . However, the existing natural pigments can not increase the color of the pigment extract due to the limitation of the extraction method (in case of ethanol extraction), there was a disadvantage that the color is hardly expressed in the product. It may also contain residues of solvents such as ethanol used in the extraction process, which did not have the benefits of natural skin-friendly materials. In addition, a low concentration of pigment during exposure to sunlight or high temperature manufacturing has been shown to fade all the color in a short period of time. Therefore, if developed as a commodity, the risk of losing its value as a commodity was too great.

On the other hand, the method of using a supercritical fluid is one of the technologies using the advantages of the supercritical fluid, and has various characteristics because the principle of distillation and extraction is applied simultaneously. Has an advantage. Supercritical fluids are incompressible fluids at temperatures and pressures above the critical point and exhibit unique characteristics not found in conventional organic solvents. That is, supercritical fluids have excellent physical properties such as high density close to liquid, low viscosity close to gas, high diffusion coefficient, and very low surface tension. Supercritical fluids can continuously change the density from a lean state close to ideal gas to a high density close to liquid density, making it easy to control the physical properties of the fluid. It is possible to recover the extraction solvent almost completely without loss, and to obtain a purified product having no residual solvent.

Therefore, the present inventors can improve the color development of the pigment extract when extracting the pigment from the herbaceous muscle by using a supercritical fluid extraction method, showing the stability that the color remains intact even at high temperature manufacturing and exposure to sunlight, and does not cause skin irritation The present invention was completed.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a makeup cosmetic composition containing a natural pigment excellent in high color development, high temperature stability and daylight stability extracted using a supercritical fluid extraction method.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention (a) the herbicidal natural pigment 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) 40 to 90% by weight of ester oil, hydrocarbon oil or a mixture thereof based on the total weight of the composition; (c) 1 to 15 weight percent wax, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) 1 to 15% by weight of the powder, based on the total weight of the composition; And (e) provides a cosmetic composition containing 1 to 30% by weight of the polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

The natural herbaceous pigment used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is extracted by a supercritical extraction method, the supercritical extraction method using carbon dioxide as a supercritical fluid, the temperature of 40 ~ 80 ℃, 300 ~ 500 bar (bar) It is to extract the pigment component from the myelin muscle under pressure.

In addition, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that the cosmetic for the lips.

The high color natural pigmented lip cosmetic composition according to the present invention is stable at high temperature and has little color change even when exposed to sunlight, and the color development power does not drop significantly even when compared to a cosmetic using a general colorant. Therefore, it is possible to commercialize the lip cosmetic composition containing a natural pigment having an effect on the lips.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises (a) 0.1-10% by weight of the herbaceous root natural pigment extracted by the supercritical extraction method, and (b) ester-based oil, hydrocarbon-based oil or a mixture thereof based on the total weight of the composition. 40 to 90 weight percent, (c) 1 to 15 weight percent wax to the total weight of the composition, (d) 1 to 15 weight percent powder to the total weight of the composition, and (e) 1 polymer to the total weight of the composition. It contains ˜30% by weight.

The herbaceous root natural pigment is extracted by the supercritical extraction method, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that the cosmetic composition for the lips.

Hereinafter, the components (a) to (e) constituting the cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in detail.

The natural pigment used in the component (a) of the present invention is extracted from the myocardium by supercritical extraction.

Licorice is a perennial grass that inhabits the mountains and fields of Korea, China and Japan. Stems stand straight and branched, about 30 ~ 70㎝ in size, with long oval leaves. There is a lot of fine hairs on the whole, and the root is thick and purple, and it is called 'jacho'. In oriental medicine, the root is used as medicinal herb. It is effective for bleeding, nosebleeds, urine, bleeding, and measles, and is used as a disinfectant for burns, frostbite, eczema, rashes, skin ulcers, etc. Roots are used for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, and in the folklore it was called bullock medicine.

The herbicidal root is very strong in smell and irritation, and when used without pretreatment, there is a tingling sensation when the pigment is extracted and causes skin troubles. Pretreatment is a process of immersing in water around 50 ℃ for 3 ~ 24 hours. After the pretreatment, the porcelain was extracted with red pigment using supercritical fluid.

In the supercritical extraction method of the present invention, as the supercritical fluid, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, methane, ethylene, propane, propylene, and the like may be used. Preferably, supercritical carbon dioxide is used. Carbon dioxide in supercritical fluids has a critical pressure of 73.8 bar and a low critical temperature of 31.1 ° C., which is why it is generally easy to create supercritical conditions, nontoxic to carbon dioxide itself, and inexpensive.

On the other hand, in the supercritical extraction method, it is preferable to extract the pigment component from the myocardium by adding supercritical carbon dioxide at a temperature of 40 to 80 ° C. and a pressure of 300 to 500 bar. If the temperature exceeds 31 ℃, the carbon dioxide changes to the supercritical state and supercritical extraction is possible, but the extraction efficiency increases when it is above 40 ℃, and when it exceeds 80 ℃, the extraction efficiency is high, but the extraction efficiency is higher than that below. There is no increase. In addition, the extraction efficiency is increased when the air pressure is 300 bar (bar) or more, and when the pressure exceeds 500 bar (bar), there is no increase in the extraction efficiency compared to when the air pressure below that.

The herbicidal pigment extracted by the above method is stabilized with a pigment base together with polyglyceryl triisostearate oil, which can be used more conveniently for preparing a lip product. In addition, the extracted herbicidal pigment was tested for the skin and confirmed that no irritation to the skin.

The pigment is preferably contained in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, it is not suitable for expressing the lip makeup color due to low color development, and because the color of the porcelain pigment is slightly reddish, when the content exceeds 5% by weight, the appearance color is not so good. It has a bad effect on this important makeup product.

Component (b) of the present invention is composed of ester oil, hydrocarbon oil or mixtures thereof, and component (b) is 40 to 90% by weight, preferably 40 to 75% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. It is good to be contained in%.

Specifically, diisostearyl maleate, liquid paraffin, triiso stearin, triisononanoin, polyglyceryl-10 nona isostearin, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phytosteryl isostearyldimer dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl Triisostearate, Chamtriglyceride, Octanedodecanol, Dipentaerythlite Fatty Acid Ester, Phytosteryl Isostearyl Cetyl Stearyl Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl Diisostearate , Tricapryline, isotridecyl isononanoate, triethyl hexanoin and the like can be used.

The wax of the component (c) of the present invention is usually in the range of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition alone or in a mixture thereof. Specifically, ozokerite, beeswax, microcrystalline lead, candelillanade, ceresin, carnauba wax, synthetic wax, paraffin and the like can be used.

The powder of component (d) of the present invention is usually a powder alone or a mixture thereof used in cosmetics, and the content thereof is preferably in the range of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably less than 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. . Specifically, silica, mica, sericite, talc and the like can be used.

The polymer of the component (e) of the present invention is usually a polymer alone or a mixture thereof, and the content thereof is preferably in the range of about 1 to 30% by weight, preferably about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Specifically, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, mica, acrylate dimethicone copolymer and the like can be used.

The composition of the present invention may be blended with silicone oil, humectant, preservative, thickener, ultraviolet absorber, extender pigment, perfume, etc., depending on the purpose, in addition to the above components.

Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and the structure and effect of this invention are demonstrated concretely, this invention is not limited only to these examples.

Example 1 Prescription of Natural Pigment Lip Gloss Composition

ingredient Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Paraffin 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2. candelilla wax 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3. Polybutene 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 4. Polyglyceryl Triisostearate 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 5. Diisostearyl maleate To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 6. Jojoba oil 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 7. Hydrogenated Vegetable Oils 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 8. Tocopherol Acetate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 9. Preservative 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 10. Silica 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 11. Supercritical Extraction Foragese Pigment 3.0 - 12. Ethanol Extracted Forage Muscle Pigment - 3.0 13.F & DC RED # 6 - - 1.46 - 14.F & DC RED # 7 - - - 1.02 15.Titanated Mica - - - - 16. Spices 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

Manufacturing method

(1) Weigh the raw materials 1 to 15 above, heat dissolve to 90 ° C. or higher, and stir with a homogenizer to make a mixture.

(2) Complete the process of degassing, deflecting and cooling.

[Test Example 1] Evaluation of color development ability of natural pigment

In order to evaluate the color developing power of the lip glosses prepared in Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the color difference change value ΔE was investigated based on Example 1 using a color difference meter. The color difference meter digitizes the color of the 3D structure and displays it as Hunter L, a, and b values. L value means intensity (+ lightness ↔ -dark), a value means redness (-green ↔ + red), and b value means yellowness (-blue ↔ + yellow), respectively. The color difference change value ΔE was calculated by the following equation. Each sample was applied to glossy paper at a thickness of 60 μm.

L * a * b * ΔE Example 1 60.94 50.78 12.06 Comparative Example 1 85.54 12.72 -0.57 47.04 Comparative Example 2 57.28 67.09 21.73 19.31 Comparative Example 3 50.55 63.76 -3.7 22.91

As shown in Table 2, Example 1, which is a composition prepared according to the present invention, has a lower L * value than Comparative Example 1, and it is confirmed that the color development ability is higher than that of the ethanol extraction method when the supercritical extraction method is used. It was confirmed that there is no significant difference compared to the artificial colors used.

Test Example 2 Daylight Stability Evaluation 1

The lip glosses prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were examined for color difference change ΔE after 5 days of exposure to initial conditions and daylight. Each sample was applied to glossy paper at a thickness of 60 μm.

L * a * b * ΔE Average intensity Example 1 Initial state 60.94 50.78 12.06 5 days later 61.67 48.48 14.69 3.57 95.43 Comparative Example 1 Initial state 85.03 13.35 -0.51 5 days later 89.61 0.46 7.02 15.62 88.14

As shown in Table 3, the daylight stability of the composition prepared according to the present invention was confirmed to have a very good light stability compared to ethanol extracted natural pigment. The intensity of the color was also more than 95%, it can be seen that almost no discoloration. In the case of Comparative Example 1, the L * value was confirmed that the color was changed to become brighter, and the a * and b * were all greatly changed and the color was changed in general.

Test Example 3 Daylight Stability Evaluation 2

Lip glosses prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were visually observed after 5 days of exposure to initial conditions and daylight, and the results are shown in FIG. 1.

 In the case of the composition prepared according to the present invention as shown in Figure 1 is very excellent in the intensity of the initial color than Comparative Example 1. In Comparative Example 1, since the pigment in the dye base was low, the same color expression as in Example 1 was not possible even if the content of the dye base was increased. The daylight stability of the composition prepared according to the present invention was examined together. In the case of Example 1, almost no change was observed when visually observed, but in the case of the composition containing the ethanol-extracted pigment of Comparative Example 1, all of the red color was confirmed to disappear.

Test Example 4 Evaluation of Preference

After applying the natural pigment lip gloss prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 three or more times, respectively, and evaluated the feeling of use (coloring power, persistence, bleeding, odor). The satisfaction of the product was evaluated on a 9-point scale as shown in Table 4 below.

very good 9 points satisfied 7 points usually 5 points dissatisfaction 3 points very good 1 point

Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Color development 7.0 2.6 Color persistence 7.0 2.2 Smear 7.8 8.2 Aroma 5.8 5.4

As shown in Table 5, the composition of Example 1 prepared according to the present invention and Comparative Example 1 in which the ethanol extract pigments were used were evaluated in four evaluation parts (color development, color sustainability, bleeding, odor). In case of Example 1, the preference is much higher.

1 is a digital camera image after 5 days exposure to the initial state of the lip gloss prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 and daylight.

Claims (6)

(a) 0.1 to 10% by weight of the herbaceous root natural pigment extracted by the supercritical extraction method based on the total weight of the composition; (b) 40 to 90% by weight of ester oil, hydrocarbon oil or a mixture thereof based on the total weight of the composition; (c) 1 to 15 weight percent wax, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) 1 to 15% by weight of the powder, based on the total weight of the composition; And (e) 1 to 30 weight percent of the polymer, based on the total weight of the composition, The supercritical extraction method uses carbon dioxide as a supercritical fluid, and extracts the pigment component from the herbicidal muscle at a temperature of 40 to 80 ° C. and a pressure of 300 to 500 bar. The powder is one or more selected from the group consisting of silica, mica, sericite and talc, The polymer is a cosmetic composition of at least one selected from the group consisting of polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and acrylate dimethicone copolymer. delete delete The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the herbaceous root natural pigment is extracted through a pretreatment step soaked in water at 45 to 55 ° C. for 3 to 24 hours. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 4, wherein the composition is a cosmetic for lips. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 4, wherein the composition has enhanced color development and sun stability.

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