KR100681375B1 - A suede like fabrics with excellent filling of weight and thickness - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suede-like fabric having excellent weight and thickness and a manufacturing method thereof. The present invention uses a island-in-the-sea composite filament composed of island components having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.5 denier and alkali-soluble sea components as all or part of warp, weft or pile yarns to produce dough, weaving process, sea component elution process, When manufacturing the suede-like fabric through the dyeing process and brushed or buffing process, it is characterized in that the polyurethane resin is impregnated into the dough immediately before or immediately after the dissolution process. Suede-like fabric of the present invention is impregnated with a polyurethane resin is excellent in weight, thickness and resilience. Therefore, the suede-like fabric of the present invention is useful for the production of high-quality clothing such as winter jackets and coats.

Suede fabric, weight, thickness, sea island type, composite fiber, polyurethane resin

Description

A suede like fabrics with excellent filling of weight and thickness}

1 is a scanning electron micrograph showing the cross-sectional state of the island-in-the-sea composite filament used in the present invention

Figure 2 is a scanning electron microscope photograph showing a cross-sectional state of the suede fabric of the present invention

Figure 3 is a scanning electron micrograph showing the surface state of the suede-like fabric of the present invention

The present invention relates to a suede fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, and more particularly, to a suede fabric and a method for producing a suede fabric impregnated with a polyurethane resin excellent in weight, thickness and resilience.

Suede was originally tanned by lining the inside of a calf or lamb skin, and has been used on gloves and women's shoes. However, conventional suede is a material that is obtained from the skin of the livestock, so the supply is not smooth, can not be produced in large quantities, the side effects such as the generation of various pollutants caused by the slaughter of the livestock, the price is also very high It was expensive and difficult to use in general.

In addition, suede made of natural materials has a disadvantage that is difficult to manage when applied for clothing due to difficult water washing. However, the emergence of synthetic fibers has provided electricity to overcome these shortcomings.

In other words, with the development of technology that has continued since the invention of synthetic fiber, a variety of synthetic fiber products have emerged up to now, and many suede-like products using synthetic fiber have been developed and produced in suede as well as for various furniture and sofas. It is applied to interiors, such as a back.

In addition, due to the use of synthetic fibers, problems in the production of conventional suede have greatly improved problems such as generation of pollutants due to the slaughter of livestock. Friendly. In addition, unlike conventional suede has the disadvantages such as water washing is impossible, suede-like fabrics using synthetic fibers are water-washing and easy to handle has attracted great attention.

The method of manufacturing suede-like fabric using synthetic fibers can be roughly divided into methods using short fibers and methods using long fibers (filaments).

Looking at the method of manufacturing a suede-like fabric using short fibers, first to prepare a sheet on a non-woven fabric using short fibers, impregnated with a polyurethane or the like to secure stability there, and then brushed or buffed The suede is raised, dyed and processed to produce suede-like fabrics.

In this case, in order to prevent the fall of the short fibers, a large amount of resin must be used when impregnating the polyurethane resin, which makes it difficult to manufacture a thin fabric. In addition, there is a disadvantage that a lot of peeling, that is, single yarn curling, etc. by the surface short fibers. In addition, when the island-in-the-sea fine microfibers are mixed with other short fibers, the other short fibers protrude into the surface layer, thereby making the surface uneven. Therefore, since only one type of island-in-the-sea fine microfibers should be used, various fabrics cannot be manufactured and the price is also expensive compared to a method of manufacturing a mixture of general yarns.

Next, a method of manufacturing a suede-like fabric using long fibers (filament) is a method of manufacturing using a direct melt spun yarn of fine fine yarn and a method of manufacturing using a split or island-in-the-sea composite filament yarn have. The method of manufacturing suede fabric using long fibers (filament) is different from the method of manufacturing suede fabric using the short fibers can be used by mixing different kinds of yarn, it is also possible to manufacture a thin fabric.

However, in the case of manufacturing dough using finely spun fine yarn spun, melted, scaled and brushed or buffed to produce a suede-like fabric, the fineness of the monofilament introduced into the wool is 0.2-0.5 denier It is very low compared to the denier of the monofilament of general yarn at the level, but it is too high to express the luxurious appearance and soft touch in suede-like fabric.

In addition, the fineness of the monofilament to be introduced into the moor is too low to apply to the general machining process, requiring careful handling during processing. That is, there is a great possibility of cutting of the monofilament during weaving and knitting. In addition, because of the use of synthetic fibers, the lack of thickness and weight found in winter jackets, coats, etc. using natural suede.

The dough is manufactured by using the divided or island-in-the-sea composite filament, and the fraction or sea component is eluted by using an alkaline solution, and the 0.05 denier level monofilament is introduced into the suede fabric, and the yarn is directly melted. It can overcome the lack of appearance and texture seen in the applied suede fabric, and it can prevent deterioration of fairness by cutting microfibers during weaving and weaving because microfibers appear after the dividing process or the elution process. .

However, even when the split type or island-in-the-sea composite filaments are used, it is difficult to overcome the lack of abnormal weight and thickness using synthetic fibers as a material. In particular, it is very difficult to express the weight of the fabric itself required to make a winter coat or jumper using a suede-like fabric using synthetic fibers.

The present invention, in order to solve the problems of the conventional suede-like fabric, to provide a suede-like fabric excellent in weight, thickness and resilience, containing a suitable amount of polyurethane resin having a specific property in the suede-like fabric. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method for producing a suede-like fabric suitable for high-end clothing materials such as winter coats due to the excellent weight, thickness and rebound properties using island-in-the-sea composite filaments.

Suede-like fabric of the present invention for achieving the above object is a fabric or knitted suede-like fabric of ultrafine filament having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.5 denier, characterized in that the polyurethane resin is impregnated in the suede-like fabric It is done.

In addition, the manufacturing method of the suede-like fabric of the present invention, weaving to manufacture the dough by using the island-in-the-sea composite filament composed of island component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.5 denier and alkali-soluble sea component as all or part of warp, weft or pile yarn Or when manufacturing the suede-like fabric through the knitting process, sea component elution process, dyeing process and brushed or buffing process, the polyurethane resin is impregnated into the dough immediately before or immediately after the sea component elution process.

EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION Hereinafter, this invention is demonstrated in detail.

First, in the present invention, in the island-in-the-sea composite filament used for weaving or cutting the dough, a sea component polymer capable of dissolving or degrading in an alkaline solution and a island component polymer having a fiber forming ability are compounded in the form of a long fiber filament.

The single yarn fineness of the said island component after eluting and removing a sea component with alkaline solution is 0.001-0.5 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the island component is out of the above range, the feel and appearance of the final product are deteriorated.

Polyester resin, nylon resin, etc. can be used as a island component polymer. In the present invention, the kind of island component polymer, the kind of sea component polymer, the weight ratio of island component and sea component, the number of island components in filament, etc. are not particularly limited. In addition, the present invention does not specifically limit the type and content of additives such as quencher and ultraviolet stabilizer added to the island component polymer.

The present invention first uses the islands-in-sea composite filaments as warp and / or weft yarns to weave the fabric dough, or use all or part of the pile yarn to knit the knit dough. At this time, the texture and density of the fabric or knitted fabric are not particularly limited, but in the case of the fabric, it is preferable to use the tissue as the main fabric, and in the case of the knitted fabric, the warp knitted fabric is maximized. desirable.

In the present invention, it is also possible to use in the form of a processed yarn in which the island-in-the-sea composite filament is flammable at the time of weaving or knitting, and can also be used in the form of blended yarns in which the island-in-the-sea composite filament and the general synthetic fiber multifilament are interlaced.

Next, the dough prepared as described above is treated with an alkaline solution to elute and remove the sea component in the island-in-sea composite filament. At this time, an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution or the like can be used as the alkaline solution.

In the present invention, the dissolution conditions of the sea component are not particularly limited, but the concentration of the sodium hydroxide aqueous solution is preferably 0.5-30%, and a cold pad batch wet with an appropriate amount of an alkaline solution at room temperature. In the case of the system, the temperature is 20-80 ° C, and when a rotary washer or a rapid dyeing machine is used, the temperature is preferably 70-120 ° C.

In the present invention, it is not necessary to completely elute the sea component during the sea component elution step.

Next, the dough which the sea component eluted is impregnated with a polyurethane resin. At this time, as the polyurethane resin to be used, all of the general polyurethane used in the conventional artificial leather production can be used.

More preferably, the hardness measured by the Type A Shore Durometer is 70 or less, and the film has a break elongation of not less than 125% and an elongation recovery of not more than 130% in the film state having a thickness of 0.5 ± 0.05 mm. It is preferable to use polyurethane resin.

The measuring method of specific hardness, thickness, and elongation recovery rate is mentioned later.

Looking at one of the specific methods of impregnating the polyurethane resin in the dough eluted with sea components, the polyurethane resin is mixed with an organic solvent such as 4,4-dimethylformamide, stirred to dissolve, and then the concentration of the polyurethane resin solution Dilute to about 6-13% by weight.

Next, using a general wet impregnation device equipped with an impregnation tank, a coagulation tank and a washing tank, the polyurethane solution prepared as described above is impregnated into dough. At this time, the impregnated amount of the polyurethane resin is preferably 1-50% by weight relative to the total weight of the suede-like fabric, which is the final product having a brushed or buffing process.

When the impregnated amount of the polyurethane resin is less than 1% by weight, the thickness, weight, and resilience of the final product may be insufficient, and when the amount exceeds 50% by weight, the expression of the cows is not smooth in raising and buffing. The texture of the suede fabric may be rough.

The impregnation process of the polyurethane resin may be performed immediately after the sea component elution step, or may be performed immediately before the sea component elution step.

Next, the processed paper impregnated with a polyurethane resin is dyed. In the present invention, the type, color, lightness, and saturation of the dye are not particularly limited, but when the polymer is nylon, the dye is usually dyed with a metal dye or an acid dye, and the polymer is dispersed when the polymer is polyester. Dye in a high pressure rapid dyeing machine.

Next, the fabric dyed as described above is brushed or buffed to a level suitable for the purpose to express the wool consisting of ultrafine fibers.

Suede-like fabric produced by the method of the present invention is excellent in weight, thickness and resilience compared to the suede-like fabric made of conventional synthetic fibers containing polyurethane resin.

In addition, the suede-like fabric of the present invention has a fine single-fiber fineness of the fine fibers to express a good touch and appearance. In addition, the thickness of the suede-like fabric before removing the polyurethane resin is 100-200% of the thickness of the fabric after removing the polyurethane resin.

In the present invention, various physical properties of the suede fabric and polyurethane film were evaluated as follows.

Weight of suede fabric (g / ㎡)

The fabric weight sample cutter moving up and down is used to cut and collect suede fabrics with a diameter of 112.87mm (error range: ± 0.001mm), and to collect the weight (g) of the collected fabric to the second digit below the decimal point using electronic balance. After the measurement, the weight value (g) of the measured fabric is divided by the cross-sectional area (m 2) of the fabric.

Thickness of suede fabric (mm)

Under a load of 10 g, the thickness of the ten points randomly selected from the suede fabric is measured with a thickness measuring instrument having a surface area of 28 mm2 and a flat contact surface, and then the average value is taken.

Recovery rate of suede-like fabric (%): resilience

Draw a line at a 45 ° angle to the incline on a suede fabric (fabric) with a length of 50 cm in the warp direction and a length of 50 cm in the weft direction, and place the suede fabric with the end of the line facing downward. Measure the length (L ₁ ), stretch the weight of the suede-like fabric end (under the lower end of the indicated line) by 1.5kg weight, remove the weight after 2 minutes and leave for 2 minutes and then suede-like fabric length ( L ₂ ) is measured. The recovery rate (R) of the suede fabric is calculated by substituting L ₁ and L ₂ measured as described above in the following equation.

However, the recovery rate (R) of the final suede-like fabric is taken as an average value of the recovery rates calculated as described above three times per sample.                     

Weight / thickness / appearance of suede-like fabric

로, 4-5명이 우수하다고 평가하면 △로, 3명 이하가 우수하다고 평가하면 ×로 각각 구분 하였다.Evaluate by 10 experts If more than 8 out of 10 experts say they are excellent, ◎

4-5 people were classified as △ when evaluated as excellent, and 3 or less when evaluated as excellent as each.

Hardness of polyurethane resin

Measure with a Type A Shore Durometer.

Elongation recovery rate (%) of polyurethane film

After stretching the polyurethane film having a thickness of 0.5 ± 0.05mm in one direction by 100%, the length (L ₃ ) and the original polyurethane film length (L ₂ ) to be recovered upon standing are obtained by substituting the following equation.

Elongation at break of polyurethane film (%)

Polyurethane film having a thickness of 0.5 ± 0.05mm is cut into a rectangle of 20mm in width and 100mm in length regardless of the direction, and stretched using a normal tensile tester (Load cell 5kg) to obtain the elongation at break (%). The distance between the jaws of the tensile tester is 50mm, the temperature is room temperature, and the elongation speed is 300mm / min.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

70 parts by weight of a polyethylene terephthalate component and 30 parts by weight of sea component of a copolyester which can be dissolved in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide are spun in a island-in-sea type to form a island-in-sea composite of 75 denier / 24 filaments with 36 island components per filament. Filament was prepared. The island-in-the-sea composite filament was flammable and then interlaced with 100-denier / 48-filament high shrink yarns (copolymer polyester filaments) to prepare blended yarns having a total fineness of 170 deniers and 72 filament numbers. The blended yarns prepared as described above were used as weft yarns, and 75 denier / 36 filament general polyester filaments (not island-in-the-sea composite fiber) were used as weft yarns to weave the main fabric fabric dough having a weight of 250 g / Yd. Next, the fabric dough was treated with a 1% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at a rotary washer (95 ° C.) for 1 hour to elute and remove sea component in the island-in-the-sea composite filament included in the fabric dough. Next, the polyurethane resin solution was wet impregnated to the fabric dough from which the sea component was eluted and removed using the normal wet impregnation impregnator. In the polyurethane resin solution, 225 parts by weight of 4,4-dimethylformamide was added to 100 parts by weight of polyurethane resin, and stirred for 1 hour. Then, an appropriate amount of 4,4-dimethylformamide was added thereto to add a polyurethane resin solid content. It was prepared by diluting to a concentration of 8%. In addition, as the polyurethane resin, a polyurethane resin having a hardness of 50%, an elongation at break of 150%, and an elongation recovery rate of 100% in a film form having a thickness of 0.05 mm was used as a polyurethane resin. In addition, the impregnation amount of the polyurethane resin was adjusted to be 15% by weight relative to the final product weight. Subsequently, the fabric impregnated with a polyurethane resin was dyed in a high pressure rapid dyeing machine with a disperse dye, and dried heat-treated at a temperature of 170 ° C. to increase morphological stability, and then brushed to prepare a suede-like fabric. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the prepared suede-like fabric are shown in Table 2.

Example 2-Example 7 and Comparative Example 1

A suede-like fabric was manufactured under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the impregnation amount of the polyurethane resin and the kind (characteristic) of the used polyurethane were changed as shown in Table 1. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the prepared suede-like fabric are shown in Table 2.

Manufacture conditions division Polyurethane impregnation amount (wt%) Polyurethane properties Hardness Film Break Elongation (%) Film Elongation Recovery (%) Example 1 15 50 150 100 Example 2 15 70 130 120 Example 3 20 50 150 100 Example 4 20 45 160 110 Example 5 15 70 125 130 Example 6 50 70 125 130 Example 7 One 70 125 130 Comparative Example 1 0 - - -

Suede-like fabric property evaluation results division Unit Area Weight (g / ㎡) Thickness (mm) Weight Thickness Exterior Resilience (recovery rate,%) Example 1 460 0.82

◎ 80 Example 2 460 0.84

◎ 60 Example 3 480 1.01 ◎ ◎

75 Example 4 480 1.06 ◎ ◎

95 Example 5 460 0.93

△ ◎ 70 Example 6 600 1.42 ◎ ◎ △ 97 Example 7 440 0.74 △

◎ 60 Comparative Example 1 390 0.63 × × ◎ 35

The suede-like fabric of the present invention is excellent in the feel and appearance as well as the fineness of the ultra-fine filament and at the same time contains a polyurethane resin is excellent in weight, thickness and resilience. As a result, the suede fabric of the present invention is useful as a material for winter coats and jumpers.

Claims (8)

Weaving or knitting process for manufacturing dough using all or part of island-in-the-sea composite filaments composed of island components having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.5 denier and alkali-soluble sea components, seaweed elution process, dyeing process and In producing suede-like fabric through napping or buffing process, it has 125% hardness (measured by Type A Shore durometer) of 70% or less in the film state of 0.5 ± 0.05mm immediately before or after sea component elution process. A method for producing a suede fabric having excellent weight and thickness, comprising impregnating a polyurethane resin having an elongation at break and an elongation recovery rate of 130% or less into a dough. The method of claim 1, wherein the suede-like fabric is in the form of a woven or knitted fabric. The method according to claim 1, wherein the impregnated amount of the polyurethane resin is 1-50% by weight based on the total weight of the suede fabric. delete A suede-like fabric of a woven or knitted fabric comprising an ultrafine filament having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.5 denier, having a hardness of 70 or less (measured by a type A Shore durometer) in the suede-like fabric, and having a thickness of 0.5 ± 0.05 mm A suede fabric having excellent weight and thickness, characterized by impregnating a polyurethane resin having an elongation at break of 125% or more and an elongation recovery of 130% or less in a film state. The suede fabric of claim 5, wherein the polyurethane resin impregnation amount is 1-50% by weight based on the total weight of the suede fabric. delete The suede fabric of claim 5, wherein the thickness of the suede fabric before removing the polyurethane resin is 100-200% of the thickness of the suede fabric after removing the polyurethane resin.

Images