JPS633975B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a core-sheath type mixed fiber interlaced filament yarn suitable for producing a novel spun-like woven or knitted fabric having a silk texture. [Prior Art and its Problems] Many spun-like filament yarns that have the characteristics of both spun yarns and filament yarns have been proposed, but none has yet achieved the essence. Most of these methods involve forming fluff, loops, crimp, etc. on the surface of the yarn to approximate the fluff of spun yarn and to make it look and feel similar to the fluff of spun yarn. A typical method is Taslan yarn, and although this technique produces a fluffy feel similar to spun yarn due to the countless closed loops and slacks that protrude on the yarn surface, these loops, slacks, and entanglements create a fluffy feel. The unwinding properties from the thread-wound layer are poor, the strength of the yarn is significantly reduced in some parts, and the knitting and weaving properties are poor, as well as the surface quality of the knitted fabric is extremely reduced. In terms of texture, when subjected to heat treatment in the dyeing and finishing process, all filaments shrink uniformly, reducing the inter-filament dispersibility provided by yarn processing, resulting in a disadvantage of roughness and lack of volume. In addition, this yarn is made by subjecting each filament to fluid turbulence treatment in a relaxed state, so a relaxation rate of at least 15% is required to retain loops, slack, and entanglement without disappearing during high-level processing. The large loops and sag of the yarn surface required are fatal to the functionality of the garment fabric. In other words, even if this yarn is made into a knitted fabric, loops and sagging will occur on the surface,
These factors become intertwined, resulting in the so-called fastener phenomenon, which causes difficulty in spreading the fabric during sewing, making it difficult for the material to slip, and causing difficulty in slipping when worn and the adhesion of dust. In addition, in the case of entangling techniques other than the Taslan method, since there is no thread feeding action of the fluid, the bulking to create a spun-like effect is simply by utilizing the difference in shrinkage of the threads, resulting in a filament-like feel. It's not completely dry. Furthermore, methods for producing a silk-like texture are known, such as using triangular cross-section threads and providing fine crimps, but these only apply to the field of filament yarns and are not applicable to the field of spinning textures. There are almost no examples of this. [Objective of the Invention] The main object of the present invention is to have silk-like luster and squeaky feel, as well as the fullness and soft fluffiness that are characteristic of spun yarn, and to improve yarn handling properties in higher processing steps. It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel spun-like filament yarn that has good properties and can be used to make woven or knitted fabrics that are suitable for sewing or wearing clothing. Furthermore, by adopting an appropriate fiber composition, silk fabrics can have a luxurious and unique texture that combines the characteristics of natural long fibers and short fibers, such as silky wool, silky linen, and silky cotton. An object of the present invention is to provide a novel filament yarn that has a unique creak and can form a fabric with high color development. [Configuration of the Invention] The present invention has the following basic technical configuration to achieve the above object. In other words, in a core-sheath type interwoven interwoven yarn made of multifilament yarn with two or more threads, the heat shrinkage rate of the core yarn is higher than that of the sheath yarn when dry heated at 180℃ for 5 minutes in the free state. 6% or more, and the loosening rate of the core yarn is 4% or less, and the loosening rate of the sheath yarn is higher than the loosening rate of the core yarn and 9% or less, and the sheath yarn is resistant to the same solvent. The present invention is a spun yarn-like filament yarn having a silk texture and characterized by containing a composite fiber yarn composed of at least two types of polymers having different solubility. The present invention will be explained in detail below. First of all, if we consider the production of spun yarn texture using filament yarn, which is one of the objects of the present invention, various characteristics of spun yarn are related to fine crimp of individual fibers and migration phenomenon of inner layer and outer layer. Because of this, we came up with the idea of increasing the dispersion between each filament and generating fine crimp by giving the multifilament yarn an entangling effect and a shrinking effect.As a result of various experiments, we found that the overall yarn structure was as follows. It has been found that a core-sheath structure consisting of at least two types of filament threads, as shown in Figures 4 and 5, which is intertwined, is suitable. The important point here is how much the shrinkage difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn should be set. It has been found that it is necessary to set the shrinkage difference to 6% or more, preferably 7% or more in dry heat at 180°C for 5 minutes in a free state, in order to obtain a stable and high swelling. Here, as the core yarn, it is preferable to use a heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn as the core yarn in order to have a higher shrinkage rate than the sheath yarn and to obtain a more delicate bulge and soft texture. In addition, the sheath yarns also have heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarns and individual filaments of the sheath yarns that have alternating random lengths of high-shrinkage areas and low-shrinkage areas in the yarn axis direction, and the shrinkage of the multifilament yarn as a whole is greater than that of the core yarns. A low rate is desirable. Further, by appropriately combining and using the above-mentioned fibers within the scope of the present invention, it is possible to design filament yarns with a great variety of designs. Another important point of the present invention is that when the invented yarn is used for knitting and weaving, it has good high-order processability, improves the quality of the knitted fabric, and satisfies the requirements that the fabric does not cause the fastener phenomenon. . In this respect, for example, as shown in Figure 2, the important point is how to set the loosening rate of the sheath yarn. It has been found that it is necessary to set the loosening rate of the core yarn to 9% or less, preferably 8% or less. However, the loosening rate of the sheath yarn and the loosening rate of the core yarn are also important factors that determine the strength of the interlacing and entangling properties of the yarn of the present invention and the strength of the total yarn. In general, a yarn made by intertwining two multifilament yarns in the same relaxation state,
When the loosening rate of the constituent yarns is made low as in the yarn of the present invention, a phenomenon called shedding occurs due to high-order processing tension during weaving and weaving, resulting in a decrease in fiber-mixing and entangling properties, making it impossible to obtain the desired yarn quality and quality of the knitted fabric. However, since the present invention has a core/sheath structure, even if tension is applied during high-order processing during weaving and weaving, the core yarn will mainly receive the tension, and there will be no slip-through phenomenon and the intertwining property of the fibers will not deteriorate. However, in order to improve the interlacing properties, it is necessary to give some slack to the core yarn side as well. The loosening rate of this core yarn needs to be 4% or less, preferably 3%. If the loosening rate is higher than this, the slipping phenomenon will easily occur, similar to yarns made by mixing and interlacing general two-filament multifilament yarns in the same relaxation state, and the biggest drawback is that the filaments of the core yarn will loosen. As a result of entanglement, a low-strength region is created in the yarn as a whole, which is lower than the strength of the core yarn, resulting in yarn breakage in higher-order processing steps and a decrease in the tear strength of the knitted fabric. For the same reason, it is preferable that the core yarn is a multifilament yarn having a strength higher than that of the sheath yarn, and the core yarn fineness is preferably 20% or more, preferably 30% or more of the total fineness. Here, the loosening rate of the core yarn and the loosening rate of the sheath yarn are values determined by the following formula. Looseness rate of core yarn (%) = l ₁ - _{l 0} / l ₀ ×100 Looseness rate of sheath yarn (%) = l ₂ - l ₀ / l ₀ ×100 l ₀ : Entire yarn under 0.1g/d load length (10cm). l ₁ : The average length of the intertwined fibers of l ₀ yarn is carefully unwound with a disassembly needle, and the length of each filament of the core yarn is read on a scale. l ₂ : The average length of the interwoven fibers of l ₀ yarn is carefully unwound with a disassembly needle, and the length of each filament of the sheath yarn is read on a scale. As explained in detail above, the important points of the present invention are that the fastener phenomenon that occurs when loops or slacks protruding from the yarn surface are entangled with each other is not observed, and the yarn is produced by the difference in heat shrinkage between the core yarn and the sheath yarn. It is a yarn that can obtain a fluffing effect depending on the length difference, but the slack of the sheath yarn obtained by heat treatment in the dyeing and finishing process of knitted fabrics has different properties from the loops and slack obtained in yarn processing. For example, as shown in Figure 3. It was found that within the loosening ratio of the core yarn and sheath yarn in the yarn of the present invention, the fastener phenomenon in knitted fabrics hardly becomes a problem even if the dry heat shrinkage rate difference is set high. In other words, in order to achieve the object of the present invention, it is necessary to use a core-sheath type mixed fiber entangled yarn in which mainly the sheath yarn of the multifilament yarn with two or more yarns is in a relaxed state, and the loosening rate of the core yarn and the sheath yarn is It has been found that it is better to keep the value as low as possible, and rather create a structure that allows a high difference in yarn length to be obtained by the difference in heat shrinkage between the core yarn and the sheath yarn. Next, to discuss one of the purposes of the present invention, which is to impart a silky feel, as previously mentioned, we aim to create a silky feel by using threads with a special triangular to octagonal cross-section. Attempts have been made and some results have been obtained, but simply using these special threads has only resulted in a filament-like silky texture. The present invention breaks away from conventional silk-based synthetic fiber fabrics that are beyond paper-like, and uses a process that has been studied in order to obtain the soft and bulky feel of spun yarn, as well as the luster and squeaky feel of silk. It has been found that the other objectives can be completely achieved by using the composite fibers described below in the filament structure described above. That is, by using composite fibers in which a type of polymer that is easily soluble in solvents is arranged on the fiber surface, and grooves with fine and sharp edges are formed by solvent treatment, the filament itself can be By giving it a glossy and squeaky feel, and placing it especially on the sheath yarn side, the surface exhibits an extremely soft and smooth luster and squeaky feeling, as well as a bulky tone and moderate texture in the yarn direction. Not only is it possible to obtain an appearance and texture similar to natural silk, which has a sense of unevenness, but also a silky-looking fabric with elasticity can be obtained due to the presence of the core yarn. Here, the composite fiber used in the present invention will be described. Composite fibers that can be used in the present invention are those that are spun simultaneously from at least two types of polymers that have different solubility in the same solvent, and their cross-sectional shape, Although the arrangement method is not specified, a preferred example is shown in FIG. Figure 8 shows a cross section of a composite fiber, which is a composite yarn of an α component polymer and a β component polymer, where the β component has a wedge shape that tapers inward in the cross section of the fiber, forming the β component. The polymer has greater solubility in the solvent than the polymer forming the α component. In the present invention,
In particular, the shape of the β component is an important factor in achieving the purpose and effect. In the present invention, the wedge shape of the β component is such that, in the cross section of the fiber as shown in FIG. Assuming a nearby point Q, a boundary point M, , L on the outer periphery of α and β components, and an intersection N of lines PQ and ML, the depth ratio GQ/GP of the β component to the fiber cross section is
The range is preferably 0.07 to 0.9, more preferably
A range of 0.15 to 0.8 is desirable. When GQ/GP is lower than 0.07, the β component exists close to the center of gravity of the cross-section of the composite fiber, and in woven or knitted fabrics in which the β component is selectively dissolved and removed, the α component is split due to the frictional action when worn. This can lead to a white discoloration called frost. When GQ/GP exceeds 0.9,
Although it depends on the number of wedges in the cross section of the fiber, the proportion of the β component to the total fiber becomes low, making it difficult to obtain the desired squeaking and clothes-sliding effects. In addition, as a result of various studies on the relationship between the shape of the wedge after dissolving and removing the β component, squeakiness in the fabric, and color development, the results shown in Figures 11 and 12.
Judging from the figure, in order to bring the squeak of the fabric to a silk-like level, the width of the wedge-shaped groove after dissolving or removing all or part of the β component in Figure 9 must be
M′L′ is 0.9μ or more, wedge-shaped groove depth QN or
Q'N' must be 0.3μ or more. Furthermore, with respect to the color development of dyed fabrics, fibers with wedge-shaped grooves such as those of the present invention tend to have higher or lower color development than those without wedges, depending on the shape of the wedge. In order to make the effect at least higher than that without a wedge, the width ML or M′L′ of the wedge-shaped groove should be 1.2μ or less, and the depth QP or Q′N′ of the wedge-shaped groove should be 1.4μ or less. There is a need. Therefore, in order to satisfy both the characteristics of making the squeak of the fabric similar to that of silk woven and knitted fabrics and the coloring property being at least higher than that of fabrics without wedges, the width of the wedge-shaped grooves should be 0.9 to 1.2μ, and the wedge shape should be It is desirable that the depth of the groove is in the range of 0.3 to 1.4μ. α forming the composite fiber of the present invention
The ratio of component and β component, that is, the composite ratio is α component: β
The weight ratio of the components is preferably in the range of 40:60 to 95:5,
A range of 50:50 to 90:10 is more desirable. If the amount of the β component exceeds 60%, spinning/drawability and weaving properties often decrease, and the shape of the wedge changes depending on the properties and composite ratio of the α and β components, and the width of the wedge and In order to maintain the depth, it is necessary to select an appropriate composite ratio and solvent dissolution rate ratio of α component and β component. Regarding the number of wedges in the cross section of the fiber, it is preferable that grooves also exist on the surface of the woven or knitted material, and two or more wedges per filament is desirable.The cross-sectional shape before β component elution should be A composite yarn having a multilobal cross section as shown in FIG. 10 is preferred. Incidentally, this composite fiber may be used for all of the sheath yarn or for only a part of the sheath yarn. Furthermore, in the yarn of the present invention, the composite fibers only need to be contained in at least the sheath yarn, and therefore may be contained in the sheath yarn and in the core yarn. Furthermore, this composite fiber has a smaller shrinkage than the core yarn and has the yarn loosening rate described above. Next, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to the drawings. Figures 4 and 5 are models of processed yarns (B, D) that have developed bulk by dry heat treatment of processed yarns (A, C) obtained by the present invention at 180°C for 5 minutes in a free state. This is what is shown. Furthermore, these Figure 4,
In FIG. 5, for ease of understanding, only two filaments each of the core thread and the sheath thread are representatively drawn, and other filaments are omitted. Therefore, although it does not appear to be a core-sheath structure in these figures, the actual yarn has a clear core-sheath structure due to the core yarn and sheath yarn represented above forming a large number of multifilaments. ing. Processed yarn A in Figure 4
In this example, a high-shrinkage core yarn 1 and a low-shrinkage sheath yarn 2 made of composite fibers are strongly mixed and intertwined at a core-sheath intertwining portion 3 with a slight difference in yarn length. When this yarn A is subjected to dry heat treatment, the highly shrunk core yarn 4 and sheath yarn 5 produce fine crimps and high bulkiness like processed yarn B. Further, in the processed yarn C shown in FIG. 5, the high shrinkage core yarn 1 and the low shrinkage sheath yarns 6 and 7 are strongly mixed and intertwined at the core-sheath interlacing portion 3 while having a slight difference in yarn length. Here, the low-shrinkage sheath yarns 6, 7 are composed of an extremely low-shrinkage sheath yarn portion 7 which has been further reduced in shrinkage by, for example, non-uniform heat treatment, and a low-shrinkage sheath yarn portion 6 made of composite fiber. Therefore, when this yarn C is subjected to dry heat treatment, the highly shrunk core yarn 4, the sheath yarn portion 8, and the extremely low shrinkage sheath yarn portion 9 will have fine crimps, higher bulkiness, and A high bulky part E and a very high bulky part F are obtained. The multifilament yarn used in the present invention has a low shrinkage yarn in which the sheath yarn is made of composite fibers, and the core yarn is dry heated at 180°C for 5 minutes in a free state compared to the sheath yarn.
There is no particular limitation as long as the yarn has a high shrinkage of % or more, and the core yarn may be polyamide, polyester,
Thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn such as polyacrylonitrile, polyvinyl alcohol, polypinylidene chloride, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyurethane, etc., recycled fiber multifilament yarn such as rayon, and semi-synthetic fiber multifilament yarn such as acetate. etc. can be used alone or in combination. On the other hand, the sheath yarn is not particularly limited, but for example, if the α component is a normal polyester or polyamide polymer, the β component is a polyester containing 2.4 mol% or more of metal sulfonate groups, especially 2.4 mol% or more of ethylene 5 -Sodium sulfoisophthalate-containing ester copolymers. In addition, the denier of each single fiber is 2 or more types,
For example, the present invention is possible with a combination of multifilaments varying in denier from 0.5 to 6 denier.
In terms of appearance, for example, circular, triangular, five-lobed, eight-lobed,
The characteristics can be further demonstrated by combining fibers with different cross-sectional shapes such as flat fibers, or by combining fibers with different dyeability. FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram illustrating the manufacturing process for obtaining the yarn of the present invention. To obtain the yarn of the present invention, at least two or more multifilament yarns are fed to feed rollers 12 and 13 as a yarn 10 constituting a sheath yarn and a yarn 11 constituting a core yarn, respectively. The sheath yarn 10 is brought into contact with the heating body 14 between the feed roller 12 and the relaxation roller 15 in advance, and heat-treated as a low-shrinkage yarn.The sheath yarn 10 is passed through the fluid turbulence treatment body 16 together with the core yarn 11, after which the yarn is mixed and entangled.
It passes through a second relaxation roller 17 and is wound up into a winding package 19 by a winding machine 18. At this time, the relaxation rate (looseness rate) between the feed roller 13 and the second relaxation roller 17 is 4% or less, and the relaxation rate between the relaxation roller 15 and the second relaxation roller 17 is approximately 9% or less. Conditions are desirable such that the loosening rate of the core yarn is 4% or less and the loosening rate of the sheath yarn is 9% or less. The entangling nozzle used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it uses fluid, and any type of nozzle can be used. In addition, the heating body 14 of the sheath yarn 10 made of composite fibers
The heat treatment conditions are such that the shrinkage rate in the free state of dry heat at 180°C for 5 minutes is 6% or more lower than the shrinkage rate of the core yarn 11 under the same conditions. Further, when a composite fiber multifilament yarn whose shrinkage rate is lowered by 6% or more than that of the core yarn is used as the sheath yarn 10, the heating element 14 is not necessary. If you want to obtain even higher bulkiness or spun yarn-like bulkiness, the sheath yarn 10 is transferred to the feed roller 12.
It is desirable that the material be placed in a relaxed state between the material and the relaxation roller 15, and then subjected to non-uniform heat treatment using the heating element 14. [Effects of the Invention] By having the above-described structure, the yarn according to the present invention undergoes heat treatment in the dyeing process of knitted fabrics.
Each filament has fine crimps, and while migrating to the inner layer and outer layer, differences in yarn length occur due to differences in heat shrinkage.Although it is a filament knitted fabric, it has the bulkiness and fluffiness of a knitted fabric using spun yarn. The fabric has a natural thread unevenness and a soft feel. Furthermore, since the sheath yarn has a loosening rate of 9% or less, there are fewer loops and slacks on the yarn surface compared to a mixed fiber entangled yarn, and the strength of the yarn as a whole is high, making it easy to unwind from the processed thread-wound layer. It is a yarn that is easy to handle in high-order processing, such as good knitting and weaving properties and little entanglement and slippage under high-order processing tension, and has small loops and sag on the surface of the knitted fabric, so it is not fatal for entangled yarns. The disadvantages of the fastener phenomenon caused by the entanglement of loops and slacks and the tendency for dust to adhere are eliminated. In addition, since the loosening rate of the core yarn is 4% or less, the strength of the entire yarn is high for a mixed fiber entangled yarn, and there is no local extremely low strength part that is unique to interwoven yarns, so high-order processing is possible. Eliminates concerns about yarn breakage during the process and loss of tear strength of knitted fabric products. Furthermore, in the present invention, since the sheath yarn is a special composite fiber, it is treated with a solvent in the yarn or knitted fabric state to create, for example, multiple wedge-shaped grooves, and the synergistic effect with the structure of the yarn itself creates a silk-like luster. It is possible to obtain a spun-like silk-like fabric that has a squeak effect, firmness, and softness, and furthermore, a spun-like knitted fabric that has extremely good color development after dyeing. Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 75 denier, 36 filament triangular cross-section polyester drawn yarn obtained by melt spinning and drawing polyethylene terephthalate (dry heat at 180°C for 5 minutes, shrinkage rate in free state was 16.9%) and α component Using polyethylene terephthalate as the β component, a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer in which 4.8 mol% of the total structural units is ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and polyethylene terephthalate in a weight ratio of 30:70, A 75 denier product obtained by spinning and drawing the β component in a wedge-shaped composite form from the apex of the trilobal cross section at a weight ratio of α component and β component of 85:15 as shown in Figure 8. , 36 filament triangular cross-section composite polyester drawn yarn (dry heat at 180°C for 5 minutes, shrinkage rate in free state was 18.1%).
The entanglement process was carried out using the apparatus shown in the figure. First, the composite polyester drawn yarn is supplied only to the sheath yarn 10, and the feed roller 12 with a surface speed of 201 m/min is fed.
Relax roller 15 with a surface speed of 200 m/min
The material was heat-treated by being run in contact with the heating element 14 in a 0.5% relaxed state between 0.5% and 50%, and then wound onto the winding package 19 by the winding machine 18 without using the fluid turbulence treatment element 16 and the second relaxation roller 17. . Here, the temperature of the heating element 14 is variously changed in advance,
Heat-treated low-shrinkage composite polyester yarns with shrinkage rates of 15.1, 12.2, 10.5, 9.4, 6.7, and 2.3 in the free state after dry heating at 180°C for 5 minutes were obtained. Next, these six levels of composite polyester yarn are used as the sheath yarn 10, and the previous polyester yarn is used as the core yarn 11,
The sheath yarn is fed to a relax roller 15 with a surface speed of 214 m/min, the core yarn is fed to a feed roller 13 with a surface speed of 202 m/min, and the second roller is fed with a surface speed of 200 m/min.
The fibers are mixed and entangled in the fluid turbulence processing body 16 through which 3 kg/cm ² of compressed air is passed between the relaxation roller 17, and the fibers are wound into the winding package 19 to form a total of 6 fibers A to F in Table 1.
I got a level thread. In the table, C to F are yarns of the present invention, and A to B are comparative yarns. In other words, the ability of yarn to develop bulk is related to the dry aberration between the core yarn and sheath yarn, and in order to stably obtain high bulkiness similar to spun yarn, the dry aberration between the core yarn and sheath yarn should be 6% or more. It turned out that it was necessary. In addition, two yarns of each of the six levels obtained were pulled together and 450T/m was drawn in the S direction.
57 vertical and horizontal yarns
It was woven into a 2/2 twill weave with a density of 54 wefts/in and processed using a normal polyester dyeing process. Here, the weight loss of the fabric using caustic soda was set to 21.9% for the fabric as a whole. None of the yarns presented any particular problems in preparation for weaving, weaving, and dyeing. The properties of dyed fabrics are shown in Table 1 and Section 1.
As shown in Figure 3, the ability to develop bulk of a fabric (thickness increase rate of the fabric) is related to the dry aberration of the core yarn and sheath yarn of the processed yarn, and it is necessary to stably obtain high bulkiness. The dry aberration must be 6% or more. Also C
~F, even though the fabric was bulky, the fastner phenomenon, which is a drawback of fabrics using mixed fibers and interlaced yarns, was hardly a problem. The above-mentioned woven fabric had a silky span-like fluffy feel, an uneven thickness of the yarn, a soft texture, and a mild luster, as well as a silky squeaky feel and a deep color effect. In addition, in the composite polyester yarn, dry heat
A yarn with a shrinkage rate of 9.4% in a free state at 180°C for 5 minutes is used as the sheath yarn 10, and the previously drawn polyester is used as the core yarn 11. Supplied to the feed roller 13,
In the method of obtaining processed yarn under the same conditions as above, the surface speed of the relaxation roller 15 is set to 208, 216, 218,
The process was changed in 6 ways: 220, 224, and 248 m/min, and 6 levels of processed yarn were obtained. The core yarn loosening rate of each yarn is 1.97%, and the sheath yarn loosening rate is 3.98, 7.98, 8.97, 9.97, respectively.
They were 11.97% and 23.96%. This processed yarn was twisted, woven, and dyed under the same conditions as above. The obtained dyed fabrics are all highly bulky fabrics, but as shown in Figure 2, when the sheath yarn loosening rate is 10% or more, a fastener phenomenon occurs, making them unsuitable for use as clothing fabrics. It was hot. Further, under the above processing conditions, the surface speed of the relaxation roller 15 on the sheath yarn side was fixed at 214 m/min, and only the surface speed of the relaxation roller 13 on the core yarn side was set at 214 m/min.
202.2, 204.3, 206.3, 208.2, 209.3, 210.7,
Machining was performed with 7 conditions changed to 212.1m/min. The resulting processed yarn has a core yarn loosening rate of 1.0, 2.1, 3.1, 4.0,
At 4.5, 5.1, and 5.9%, the loosening rate of the sheath threads is almost the same.
It was 7.0%. The cutting strength of this processed yarn was measured using an Instron type strength and elongation tester.
When we calculated the average cutting strength of 100 measurements and the average value of the 5 lowest strength values among the 100 measurements (the lowest strength of processed yarn), the average cutting strength was
3.79, 3.80, 3.77, 3.68, 3.43, 3.32, 3.17g/d,
The minimum strength of processed yarn is 3.31, 3.30, 3.25, respectively.
They were 3.13, 2.92, 2.72, and 2.58 g/d. The cutting strength of the polyester multifilament yarn used as the core yarn was 4.95 g/d, and the cutting strength of the composite polyester multifilament yarn used as the sheath yarn was 4.32 g/d. In other words, in order to minimize the decrease in the strength of the processed yarn of the present invention compared to the strength of the multifilament yarn used for the core yarn and sheath yarn, the loosening rate of the core yarn must be adjusted as shown in Figure 7. 4% or less, preferably 3%
It can be said that it is preferable to do the following. Note 1 Level of bulkiness of processed yarn: Processed yarn is 80
Make 2 skeins into a round skein and dry heat at 180℃・5
After being processed in a free state for 1 minute and bulked,
Fold this skein 8 times, apply a load of 50 g with a 2.5 cm wide polyester tape fabric to find the apparent volume, and divide by the weight of the yarn contained in this tape to find the unit weight (1 g ) The value of the apparent volume (cc) per unit.

[Table] Note 2 Thickness increase rate: Measure the thickness by sandwiching the finished greige fabric and the dyed fabric in a presser foot with an area of 2 cm ² and applying a load of 10 g/cm ² , and using the following formula. The value found. Thickness increase rate (%) = Fabric thickness after dyeing process - Thickness of gray fabric / Thickness of gray fabric x 100 Note 3 Fastner phenomenon: Fabric thickness after dyeing process (width 20
cm, length 50cm) in half along the weft, sandwich it between flat and smooth stainless steel plates, and then place a load on it so that the sum of the weight of the upper stainless steel plate and the weight of the load is 5kg. After leaving it for a minute, the load and the upper stainless steel plate are removed, and the two-folded fabric is gradually opened, and the degree of intertwining of loops and slack protruding from the surface of the fabric, that is, the degree of fastener phenomenon, is judged. Grade 5: No fastener phenomenon. Grade 4: Slight fasner phenomenon is observed, but there is no problem. Grade 3: Fastener phenomenon is observed, but there is almost no problem. Grade 2: A fastener phenomenon is observed, which is somewhat problematic. Grade 1: The Fassner phenomenon becomes a significant problem. Example 2 The same core yarn as in Example 1 was used, and the sheath yarn had the same composition as the sheath yarn in Example 1, but the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate copolymer and polyethylene terephthalate was 5:95 and 10:90. ,20:80,30:
Using polymers blended in the ratio of 70, 50:50, 100:0, it is made into a composite fiber as shown in Figure 8, α
The weight ratio of component and β component is 90:10 and 85:
A total of 20 drawn 75-denier, 36-filament triangular cross-section composite polyester yarns obtained by spinning and drawing at ratios of 15, 80:20, and 70:30 were used. The sheath threads are heat-treated in advance, and both are dry heated at 180℃・5
The shrinkage rate in the free state was set at 6-9%.
The core yarn is fed by feed roller 1 with a surface speed of 204 m/min.
3, and the sheath yarn was directly supplied to the relaxation roller 15 with a surface speed of 212 m/min, and the rest was as in Example 1.
The fibers were mixed and entangled under the same conditions as above to obtain processed yarns of level 20. The characteristics of the obtained yarn are that the dry aberration between the core yarn and sheath yarn is 8-11%, the loosening rate of the core yarn is 1.97%, the loosening rate of the sheath yarn is 5.98%, and the degree of bulkiness of the processed yarn is approximately 39-11%. 43Ω/
The yarn was in the g range. These threads are made into 18G jersey/tube stitch, refined,
180℃ intermediate set, caustic soda reduction processing, dyeing,
When finishing and setting at 160℃, the weight loss rate of each level was changed from 0 to 35% by weight loss processing, and the wedge-shaped groove shape of the fiber cross section of the knitted fabric decomposition sheath yarn and the color development of the knitted fabric (black dyed knitted fabric ΔL) and the degree of squeak of the knitted fabric were investigated, and the results shown in FIGS. 11 and 12 were obtained. In other words, in order to maintain color development at a level higher than that of blank yarn (no caustic soda reduction treatment),
It is desirable that the groove width be 1.2μ or less and the groove depth 1.4μ or less. Furthermore, in order to obtain a silk-like squeak, it is desirable that the width of the groove be 0.9μ or more and the depth of the groove be 0.3μ or more. Therefore, for clothing fibers, it is necessary to satisfy both color development and squeaking characteristics at the same time, and after dissolving and removing part or all of the β component, the width of the wedge-shaped groove is 0.9 to 1.2μ, and the width of the groove is It is desirable that the fiber design and dyeing processing conditions be such that the depth is in the range of 0.3 to 1.4μ. The color development of knitted fabrics and textiles is determined by using Sumikaron Black S-BB (disperse dye manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) as a dyeing condition during the processing process, using a bath ratio of 1:1 containing 14% owf.
The fabric was dyed for 60 minutes at 130°C in a dye bath of 30°C, washed by reduction, washed with water, dried, and dyed black. The L value of the dyed material was measured using a digital color measurement color difference calculator [manufactured by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.] It was expressed as a value and judged as follows: Color development (△L) = [L value of each fabric] - [L value of fabric using comparison yarn without weight reduction processing]. The L value represents the visual density of a color, and the smaller the L value, the darker the color. Therefore, if ΔL is less than zero, it indicates that the wedge-shaped grooves contribute to enhancing the color development of the fabric. The squeak effect of knitted fabrics and woven fabrics can be determined by the finishing process of each knitted fabric or woven fabric, edited by the Textile Machinery Society, published by Maruzen Co., Ltd., Fiber Handbook (Processing Edition)
Using the same method as the plane friction coefficient measurement method used by the testing and inspection department, the friction surface was 36 cm ² , the load was 2160 g, and the friction speed was 0.5 cm/
The average width (g) of 10 locations of the staple slip when fabric-to-fabric friction was applied at min was determined, and this value expressed the squeak effect. A higher value indicates a higher squeak effect, but in the case of knitted fabrics, when we investigated the relationship between the squeak feeling and the squeak feeling based on sensory tests for knitted fabrics containing silkworm silk, we found that a silk-like squeak effect was observed. To get the stag strip width is 350
It was found that it is sufficient if it is equal to or greater than g. In addition, as an example for obtaining the target groove width and groove depth from the results of Example 2, the α component as in Example 2 is ordinary polyethylene terephthalate, and the β component is ethylene 5, which is 4.8 mol% of the total structural units. - Polyethylene terephthalate copolymer, which is sodium sulfoisoflate, and ordinary polyethylene terephthalate are blended at a weight ratio of 30:70 to 20:80, and the composite ratio of α and β components is 85:15 to 85:15 by weight.
It was found that when the ratio is 80:20, the target groove width and groove depth can be maintained within the range of 35% or less, which is the weight loss rate of the normal caustic soda weight loss treatment of silky woven and knitted fabrics.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figures 1, 2 and 3 are diagrams showing the relationship between the yarn properties of the yarn of the present invention and the fabric properties, and Figures 4 and 5 are
The figure is a model diagram showing the yarn obtained by the present invention and the state in which the yarn is subjected to dry heat treatment to develop bulk. Figure 6 is a schematic diagram illustrating the manufacturing process of the yarn of the present invention. Figure 7
The figure shows the relationship between the core yarn, loosening rate, and cutting strength of the processed yarn of the yarn of the present invention. Figures 8 and 9 are schematic diagrams of the cross-sectional shape of the composite yarn of the present invention. Figures 11 and 12 showing examples of the cross-sectional shape of the composite yarn are diagrams showing the relationship between the cross-sectional shape of the composite yarn and the fabric properties of the present invention. 1...High shrinkage core yarn, 2...Low shrinkage sheath yarn, 3...
...Core-sheath intertwined part, 4...Highly contracted core thread, 5...
Low shrinkage sheath thread, 6... Normally low shrinkage part, 7... Extremely low shrinkage part, 8... Normally low shrinkage sheath thread part, 9...
Extremely low shrinkage sheath yarn portion, 10... Composite fiber multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn, 11... Multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn, 12... Feed roller, 13... Feed roller, 14... Heating body, 15...Relaxation roller, 16...Fluid turbulence processing body, 17...Second relaxation roller, 18
... Winding machine, 19... Winding package.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. In a core-sheath type interwoven interwoven yarn made of multifilament yarn with two or more yarns, the heat shrinkage rate of the core yarn is higher than that of the sheath yarn at 180°C.5 in dry heat. 6% higher in free state and 4% loosening rate of core yarn
and the loosening rate of the sheath yarn is greater than or equal to the loosening rate of the core yarn and 9% or less, and the sheath yarn is composed of at least two types of polymers having different solubility in the same solvent. A spun yarn-like filament yarn having a silk texture, characterized by containing a composite fiber yarn. 2. Silk according to claim 1, characterized in that a composite fiber is used in which a highly soluble polymer in the same solvent is arranged on the surface of a fiber composed of another polymer. Spun yarn-like filament yarn with texture. 3. Claim 2, characterized in that a composite fiber is used in which a highly soluble polymer is arranged in a tapered wedge shape from the surface of the fiber composed of another polymer toward the inside. A spun yarn-like filament yarn having a silk texture as described in 1.