JPS63216598A - Cloth end sewing method - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for sewing fabric edges. For more details,
The present invention relates to a method of sewing a fabric edge having a curved portion using a fabric edge control sewing machine.

[Conventional technology]

Currently, in the sewing industry, automation of various sewing machines is progressing, and even beginners can now produce well-tailored products at the sewing speed of a skilled worker. As one of these automated sewing machines, a fabric edge control sewing machine has been developed and is widely used in sewing factories, and is used for sewing the sides of blouses, side seams of slacks, and oversewing edges. Using these fabric edge control sewing machines, anyone can sew beautifully at high speed just by setting the fabric on the machine. However, even if you use a fabric edge control sewing machine, there may be some shrinkage in the finished seam, resulting in the finished stitch being shorter than the original length, or when sewing two pieces of fabric, even though they are sewn to the same length.
The sewing ends of the two pieces of cloth do not match,
So-called stitching errors may occur. These phenomena were noticeable when sewing easily stretchable fabrics such as knits or thin fabrics such as linings. Furthermore, when sewing the side of a blouse continuously from the top of the oil, for example, there is an inflection part at the seam between the sleeve and the body in the lower part of the armpit, and the inflection part is particularly prone to misalignment and seam shrinkage, and sometimes Sewing came off, and the use of a fabric edge control sewing machine was considered unnecessary. As described above, even if a fabric edge control sewing machine is used, it cannot be said that the stitches will necessarily be sewn beautifully, and depending on the shape of the fabric and fabric edge, this may be a major drawback. Particularly when sewing the armpits of blouses and shirts, the seams at the lower armpits become a decisive issue.

The above-mentioned fabric edge control sewing machine is a machine that overlaps one or more pieces of cut fabric and sews them along the edge of the fabric using a lock stitch type, double chain stitch type, edge stitch type, etc. A sewing machine that does Additionally, a sewing machine that overlocks the edge of one piece of fabric is generally called a serging sewing machine.
Furthermore, a sewing machine that sews the edges of two pieces of cloth is generally also called an edge control seamer. The material edge control method of these sewing machines varies depending on the manufacturer and model of the sewing machine, but there are two main types.One type has an optical sensor installed in front of the sewing machine needle, and a drive source further in front of it. There is a model equipped with a small roller with a rotation axis that is almost parallel to the direction of cloth travel. In this sewing machine, the edge of the fabric is detected by an optical sensor, and a small roller rotates forward or backward so that the edge of the fabric is always in a fixed position. It moves in the direction of decreasing the seam allowance and always keeps the seam allowance constant. In addition, with other types, the position where the edge of the cloth passes is determined, and a cloth guide is installed at that part.
There are models in which a presser foot that lightly presses the cloth is placed adjacent to the cloth guide, and a small rotatable roller without a driving source is brought into contact with the cloth at a certain angle with respect to the direction in which the cloth travels. In these sewing machines, the fabric is sewn, and as the fabric progresses, a portion of the fabric is pressed by a presser foot or a small roller, so the fabric moves in a direction that increases the seam allowance. At this time, since the fixed point of the edge of the cloth is set by the cloth guide, the cloth never exceeds the seam allowance set by the cloth guide, and is always sewn with a constant seam allowance.

If the cloth is sewn using the cloth edge control sewing machine,
Although the seam allowance (overlock width in the case of overlock) is approximately constant, the finished stitch length is not necessarily constant with respect to the fabric length, and the finished stitch length may be shorter than the fabric length. This sewing shrinkage tends to occur on thin fabrics such as linings, and easily stretchable knit fabrics, and is caused by the fabric of the needle in the seam area (the area where the sewing machine needle, presser foot, and feed dog are actually sewn - the same applies hereafter). The main causes are considered to be distortion of the fabric during penetration, improper tightening of the sewing thread, and the thickness of the sewing machine needle, hole diameter of the sewing machine throat plate, pressure of the presser foot, height of the feed dog, sewing thread tension, and sewing machine. This problem can be reduced by adjusting the sewing machine speed, etc., but this is not a sufficient countermeasure. Furthermore, when two or more pieces of cloth are sewn together, the knit cloth, which is particularly easy to stretch, suffers from misalignment. This is because when sewing two pieces of cloth, the amount of cloth feed for the two pieces of cloth is different, and by adjusting the amount of cloth feed so that they are the same, the amount of sewing deviation can be reduced. However, in the case of knit fabric, the elongation of each piece of fabric is slightly different, so simply keeping the fabric feed constant does not always allow stable stitching, and does not solve the problem of misaligned stitches. . Furthermore, in the case of a cloth edge having an inflection part, sewing shrinkage, misalignment, and unstitching occur near the inflection part. This is because, in addition to the fabric problem mentioned earlier, the fabric edge control of the fabric edge control sewing machine cannot follow changes in the bending part, and the fabric is distorted, resulting in increased seam shrinkage and seam deviation. Sometimes the stitches come off.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

To provide a method for sewing the edges of cloth using a cloth edge control sewing machine without causing any shrinkage, misalignment, or unsewn edges even at the edges of the cloth having an inflection section. With the goal.

[Means for solving problems]

An object of the present invention is to use a cloth edge control sewing machine to sew a cloth edge having an inflection part, which is movable and
This is achieved by a fabric edge sewing method characterized by gripping and sewing the curved portion of the fabric edge and the end portion to be sewn using a gripping means having a tension applying function.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS An example of an apparatus for carrying out a sewing method according to the present invention will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

As shown in FIG. 1, the fabric 11 is fed in the direction of the arrow toward the sewing machine head of the fabric edge control sewing machine, and the feed dog 9
The fabric is sewn with the sewing machine needle 10 while being pressed by the presser foot 8. As shown in FIG. 2 (not shown in FIG. 1), a fabric edge detection sensor 25 and a small fabric edge control roller 26, which constitute the fabric edge control mechanism of the fabric edge control sewing machine, are located near the sewing machine head and on the fabric 11. ear 11a
A cloth edge control small roller 26 is disposed near the cloth edge detecting sensor 25 and operates in accordance with the position of the selvage 11a detected by the cloth edge detection sensor 25 to position the selvage 11a at an appropriate position.

In the apparatus for carrying out the sewing method according to the present invention, the bending portion of the cloth edge and the end portion to be sewn are gripped on the upstream side of the cloth edge control mechanism, and tension is applied to the cloth edge between the sewing portion and the gripping portion. A respective device is provided.

In this specification, the fabric edge refers to the sewing line to be sewn, that is, the vicinity of the virtual seam line, as shown in FIG. 1, and means the vicinity of 13 in FIG. 1. Further, the term "terminal end to be sewn" means the end of the virtual seam line on the far side from the sewing machine head.

However, if the cloth is long, a portion along the virtual seam line on the opposite side of the sewing machine head when viewed from the bending portion may be gripped.

The lower part of the armpit when sewing the side of a blouse, sweater, shirt, etc. from the oil side continuously, shown by 15 in Figure 3(b), the crotch part when sewing the inner thigh of slacks, and the part of the suit shown by 15 in Fig. 3(b). The intersection of the jacket label fold line and the edge of the fabric,
The waist part when the skirt and top of a dress are sewn continuously, or the sleeve hem part of a sweater made by molding knitting (full fashion knitting), and as shown in Figures 4(a) to 4(C). A portion where the angle θ between the tangents of the seam line of the inflection portion is 150° or less.

The fabric edge gripping tension applying device for the bending portion of the fabric edge and the sewing end portion are basically made with the same configuration. That is, the cloth edge gripping and tensioning device comprises a cloth edge gripping means 1 and tensioning means 4, 5 and 7. The cloth edge gripping means includes a cloth gripping part 3 and a cloth edge gripping part actuation mechanism 1'. As the cloth edge gripping means, various forms can be adopted as shown in FIGS. 5(a) to 5(d).
) and 5(b), one of the gripping portions 22 moves up and down using air pressure, a magnet, a spring, etc. to hold the cloth from above and below, or as shown in FIG. 3(c), If the pin 23 moves up and down to pierce and grip the fabric, and the sewing machine table 12 of the fabric edge control sewing machine is made of iron, as shown in FIG. It is also possible to use the adsorption power of Among these gripping means,
In the case of the apparatus shown in FIGS. 5(a) and 5(b), the shape of the cloth gripping part 3 is determined by the gripping pressure of the cloth gripping part, the gripping area, and the edge of the cloth between the sewing part and the cloth gripping part. Take into account the tension of the cloth and make sure that the sandwiched cloth does not come off. For example, if the gripping pressure is large or the tension applied to the fabric edge is small, a flat plate may be used, but if the gripping pressure is small or the tension applied to the fabric edge is large, the flat plate shape may be used. The friction is thick (as it turns out,
The size of the cloth gripping part may be arbitrary, by providing an uneven part or by gluing a material with high friction, such as rubber, to the cloth gripping part.
A size of 30 m x 30 m or less is preferable in order to make a small device, and in devices such as those shown in FIGS. If it is about 3 to 15 mm, it will be easier to grip the cloth, and
The device can also be made smaller. As shown in Figure 5(C), in a device where the needle sticks out, it is sufficient to stick out 2 to 3 times the thickness of the cloth.
To prevent the cloth from coming off during transportation, it is designed to protrude 5 to 15 meters. The needle shape of this device may be a straight needle or a dogleg-shaped needle, but the thickness of the needle is preferably thin enough to not damage the cloth, and is preferably less than the diameter IN.

Regarding the facing direction of the cloth gripping section, the cloth gripping section for gripping the sewing end portion may be set toward the sewing section as shown in FIG. However, as shown in FIG. 1, the cloth gripping part for gripping the inflection part is set toward the edge of the cloth so that the inflection part can be easily gripped. In this case, as shown in FIG. 2, the cloth gripping part does not necessarily have to be parallel to the cloth edge (it is also fine, as long as the inflection part can grip it even if it is somewhat oblique).

In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the cloth edge gripping means is configured to move toward the sewing section as the cloth is sewn. Regarding this movement, the seam line is not necessarily a straight line; for example, the front body of the slacks shown in Figure 3(d), the front body of a suit as shown in Figure 3(b), the seam line of the sweater shown in Figure 3(C), On the side, it is composed of straight lines and ten curved lines. Therefore, the gripping means of the present invention is required not only to move linearly but also to move two-dimensionally on the sewing machine table. Furthermore, it is required to apply tension to the gripping means so as to hold the cloth edge between the sewing part and the gripping part under a predetermined tension. As a method of imparting these two functions to the gripping means, as shown in FIG. Then, 2
You can make dimensional movements. In this case, make the sewing machine table smooth to minimize friction with the wheels. Also, if balls are used instead of wheels, it is possible to move freely back and forth and left and right.

A tension applying means is connected to the cloth edge gripping means for applying tension to the cloth edge gripping means. That is, Figures 1 and 2
In the embodiment shown in the figure, the cloth edge gripping means 1 is connected to a connecting body 7 such as a wire, rope, or a long flat plate, one side of the connecting body 7 is wound around a bobbin, and a torque motor 5 is attached to the bobbin. A tension force is applied to the cloth edge gripping means by attaching a spring and a tension force when pulling out the connecting body 7 from the bobbin. By applying two-dimensional movement and tension to the cloth edge gripping means using such a method, highly accurate control can be performed with the simplest device. In addition to these methods, by using a stepping motor in place of the torque motor 5 in FIG. A method may also be used in which the stepping motor rotates when the tension of the connecting body exceeds a certain value and the connecting body is fed out, thereby constantly maintaining the tension of the connecting body, that is, the edge of the cloth, at a constant level. Further, as shown in FIG. 6, as a method of applying tension to the cloth edge gripping means 1, a connecting body 7 is used,
A method of applying tension by applying a load 17 via a pulley 18 may also be used. In the apparatus shown in FIG. 6, the cloth edge gripping means is made lightweight so that it is suspended in the air while gripping the area to be sewn, and therefore can be moved forward, backward, left, and right at will, and does not require wheels. Note that such a configuration may be applied to the apparatus shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.

Although any method can be used to control the opening and closing of the cloth gripping section, it is most convenient to incorporate a proximity switch such as an optical sensor. For example, as shown in FIG. 7, an optical sensor 19 is installed in front of the cloth edge control section and cloth guide 24 of the cloth edge control sewing machine. On the other hand, a solenoid valve 22 that controls the pneumatic cloth edge gripping means 1 is also connected to the relay 20, and the solenoid valve opens and closes in response to a signal from the optical sensor, supplying compressed air from the compressor 21 to the cloth edge gripping means 1, Construct a system that grips and releases cloth. With this system, when the cloth edge gripping means 1 grips the cloth and approaches the sewing section, the optical sensor 19 senses the cloth edge gripping means 1 and releases the cloth, so that only the cloth is carried to the sewing section. After the cloth edge gripping means 1 releases the cloth, it is pulled back to its original position by the torque motor 5, which is a tension applying device, and then the cloth to be sewn next can be gripped again.

In addition to the methods described above that provide two-dimensional movement and tension applying functions to the fabric edge gripping means, as shown in Figure 5(d), when the sewing machine table is made of iron, the fabric can be changed using a magnet. By sandwiching the curved portion or the end portion to be sewn between the sewing machine table and the magnet, the magnet can have both two-dimensional movement and the function of applying tension.

The tension applied to the fabric edge gripping means varies depending on the fabric weight, thickness, texture, elongation, etc.
For fabrics that stretch easily, lower the tension.

On the other hand, for thick fabrics or fabrics with low elongation, the tension is increased, and the tension applied to the fabric edge gripping means is 30 to 500 g.
It is sufficient if it can be varied within a range of about cm.

The devices shown above are representative of the sewing method of the present invention, but in addition to these devices, the present invention may also be used as long as the gripping means has two-dimensional movement and a tensioning function. Can be used for inventions.

The gripping means described above grips and sews the bent portion and the end portion to be sewn. At this time, the cloth edge gripping means may be installed in accordance with the number of bending portions, with one gripping means for each bending portion and one gripping means for each end portion to be sewn. In this way, at least two cloth edge gripping means are used, so if the cloth edge gripping means that first releases the cloth near the sewing area is not immediately pulled back to its original position by the tension applying device, the next gripping means This obstructs access to the sewing area.

By using the fabric edge sewing method of the present invention, when sewing thin fabrics that tend to shrink during sewing, tension is maintained between the sewing part and the planned end of the sewing area, so the fabric is strained at the sewing part. is kept to a minimum. Therefore, since the cloth is not fed to the sewing section more than necessary, no sewing shrinkage occurs.

Also, when sewing two or more pieces of easily stretchable fabric, the two or more pieces of fabric are kept under tension at the same time, and the fabric is not fed to the sewing section more than necessary, so no stitches occur. If you combine it with a vertical feed sewing machine, no misalignment will occur when sewing any kind of fabric.

Further, even when sewing a cloth edge having a curved portion, the curved portion is guided by the cloth edge gripping means to just before the sewing portion, and the cloth edge is sewn reliably without being distorted. Therefore, it is possible to sew without any shrinkage or misalignment, as well as without the occurrence of unstitched parts.

〔Example〕

The present invention will be described in detail below based on Examples.

An edge control seamer, type EC5,152-407 manufactured by Tokyo Heavy Industries, Ltd., was used as a fabric edge control sewing machine, and the equipment shown in Figs. 1 and 2 was installed.

As the cloth edge gripping means, a multi-mount cylinder MSA6 x 10 manufactured by Koganei Seisakusho was used, and a jig was attached to this to enable cloth gripping, and the cloth was gripped when compressed air was supplied. Next, the cloth edge gripping means was loaded onto the four-wheeled truck 2, and the long stainless steel connector 7 was attached to the rear of the truck. One end of this long stainless steel connector is wrapped around a bobbin and stored in a case 4, and attached to a rotary table 6 that rotates 360 degrees.
connected. Two gripping means made in this way are movable and are connected to a tension applying means, and the cloth gripping part 3 of the cloth edge gripping means is parallel to the cloth edge so that one grips the inflection part. One of the machines was placed facing toward the sutured part so as to grasp the end part to be sewn.

The installation locations of the rotary table 6 are 1100 and 11 from the sewing department.
50 mm, and using the system configuration shown in FIG. 7, when the optical sensor 19 detects the cloth edge gripping means 1, the relay 20 is activated and the solenoid valve that supplies compressed air to the cloth edge gripping means is activated. 22 is closed and the cloth is automatically released. Using this device, continuous stitching was performed on the armpits of a blouse made of jersey fabric with a fabric weight of 120 g/n (from the oil top). The other machine grips the end of sewing with a supply pressure of 3 pupils/-, and the tension of the fabric edge by the torque motor is 100 g c
ge.

As the sewing progresses and the cloth edge gripping means approaches the sewing part, the cloth is released by an optical sensor and pulled back to its original position by a torque motor.

The blouses sewn in this way do not have any seams that are loose or shrink, and can now be sewn with good tailoring and with productivity several times higher than before.

1 boat ■ 1 Using the automatic serging machine type ^5N-2000 manufactured by Tokyo Heavy Industries, Ltd., which is a material edge control sewing machine, the 6th
The device shown in the figure was manufactured. As a cloth edge gripping means, a dogleg-shaped needle having a length of 30 nm and having an angle of 100° at the center was attached to the swing shaft of a rotary actuator RAP 90 manufactured by Koganei Seisakusho. This RAP90 has a needle that rotates 90 degrees when compressed air is supplied to stab and grip the cloth, and a gripping control system using the optical sensor and relay shown in Example 1 was configured in these devices. This RAP-90
Connecting body 7 with #8 sewing thread is applied to one end of the sewing thread, and pulley 14 is attached to the end of the sewing machine table.
To attach it, the connecting body 7 made of sewing thread was passed through the pulley.

Note that the load was 70 g, and two sets of these devices were manufactured.

Using this device, when sewing a polyester jersey suit fabric with a fabric weight of 150 g/rrf, the label folding point on the front body (Fig. 3-b-
15) And when the end part of the sewing was done using the device according to Example 2, the machine did not stop or the stitches came off, and
I was able to achieve a high level of efficiency.

〔Effect of the invention〕

By using the fabric edge sewing method of the present invention, it is possible to prevent seam shrinkage and sewing errors, and it is also possible to sew fabric edges with curved parts at high speed without stopping the machine, which was previously difficult. Using the previously used fabric edge control sewing machine, it is now possible to sew shirts, blouses, etc. from the oil side to the sides, sew the inner legs of pants, etc., with high efficiency, and to sew products with beautiful tailoring, resulting in significant cost reductions. It can be measured.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a plan view showing an embodiment of a device for implementing the sewing method according to the present invention, FIG. 2 is a front view of the device shown in FIG. 1, and FIG. Fig. 3(d) is a plan view showing an example of the inflection part at the edge of the cloth to be sewn and the pattern to be sewn, and Figs. 4(a) to 4(C) show the angle of the inflection part. It is a diagram for explaining, and FIG. 5(a)~
FIG. 5(d) is a schematic front view showing various aspects of the cloth gripping part of the apparatus shown in FIG. 1, and FIG. FIG. 7 is a front view showing an example, and FIG. 7 is a front view showing still another embodiment for carrying out the sewing method according to the present invention, which is equipped with a mechanism for detecting the position of the cloth edge gripping means. 1...Cloth edge gripping means, 1'...Cloth edge gripping unit operating mechanism, 2...Dolly, 3.22.23.24...Cloth gripping unit, 4...Connection body storage case, 5... Torque motor, 6... Turntable, 7... Connecting body, 8... Fabric presser foot,
9...Feed dog, 10...Sewing machine needle,
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 11... Cloth, 12... Sewing machine table, 13... Seam virtual line, 14... Suture line (seam line) 15... Inflection part, 16... Tangent line, 17...
... Load, 18... Pulley, 19... Optical sensor, 20... Relay, 21... Compressor, 25... Cloth edge detection sensor, 26... Small roller. Figure 2 (a) (b) Figure 3 (C) Figure 3 (a) (b) Figure 4 (a) (b) (C) (d) Figure 5 Figure 6

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When sewing a fabric edge with a curved part using a fabric edge control sewing machine, use a movable gripping means that has a tension applying function to control the curved part of the fabric edge and the end to be sewn. A fabric edge sewing method characterized by gripping and sewing.