JPS6238193A - Method for forming binding of piecing pocket - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] This invention relates to a method of forming a bead of a through pocket or the like. A penetrating pocket is a slit in the body of a coat, etc., which is hemmed with beaded cloth to form a beaded edge, and through this hemmed slit, a hand can be inserted from the outside of the coat, etc. to the inside. Many through-hole pockets have a bag-like pocket on the back of the body to put things in, and you can remove the front button of a coat, etc. and put things in and take them out directly into the bag-like pocket, and you can also use the Items can be put in and taken out of the bag-like pocket through the slit.

[Conventional technology]

The conventional method for forming the beading of a through-hole pocket, etc. is to overlap the beading cloth with the end folded back over the body fabric, and in this state, visually cut a slit of a predetermined length into the canvas.
The canvas is sewn in parallel while visually checking both sides of the slit, and then both ends of the welt fabric in the width direction of the slit are passed through the slit and folded under the body fabric. The slits are hemmed with beading fabric, and then the side edges of the beading fabric are sewn to the body fabric.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

However, in the conventional method of forming the welts of penetrating pockets, etc., slits are formed in the bead fabric while it is overlapped with the body fabric, and the slits are sewn parallel to each other, and the slits are sewn parallel to each other. Workers were solely responsible for determining the starting position for forming and sewing. Therefore, in the conventional method, there were problems in that the work efficiency was unsatisfactory and that the through pockets formed varied, making it difficult to maintain stable quality.

This invention was made by focusing on these conventional problems, and aims to improve work efficiency and stabilize quality by automating the method of forming beads such as through pockets as much as possible. The purpose is to

[Means for solving problems]

This invention involves applying a beading cloth between the front and back of the garment through the edges of the slit to form a linear slit in the body of the garment to create a through pocket, etc., to frame the slit. A method for forming a beading includes the steps of folding back at least the ends of the beading cloth that should be located on both sides in the longitudinal direction of the slit, setting the body fabric of the garment on a stand, and forming the beading with the end portions folded back. The process of stacking the cloth on top of the body fabric in a state in which the entire fabric is spread out except for the folded ends; and the process of pressing the spread and stacked welt fabric and body fabric from above with a carriage and sewing the fabric on the table with a sewing machine. a step of moving the welt fabric to the sewing section and the notch section; a step of detecting the tip position of the moving welt cloth; and a step of detecting the position of the tip of the welt cloth that is being moved; Based on the process of starting to cut a slit between the welt fabric and the welt fabric, and the detected position of the tip of the welt fabric, the sewing section of the sewing machine cuts the stacked body fabric and welt fabric on both sides of the slit. a step of sewing in parallel; a step of finishing the cutting and sewing of the slits at a predetermined position;
A step of hemming the slit in the body fabric with a welt cloth by passing both widthwise ends of the slit through the slot 7) and folding it under the body fabric; It has a step of sewing.

[Effect]

The end portions of the beading cloth located on both sides in the longitudinal direction of the slit to be formed are folded back in advance, and the beading cloth is spread and placed on the body fabric set on a table. At this time, the folded end of the beading cloth is left folded.

The stacked body fabric and hem fabric are held down by a carriage from above and moved on the table toward the sewing machine.

During this movement, the position of the tip of the welt cloth is detected by a sensor. The controller to which the sensor is connected operates the notch section and the sewing section of the sewing machine with a delay of a predetermined time from the time when the detection signal is input. The operations of the cutting section and the sewing section start at the same time or with a slight time difference, and slits are cut into the body fabric and the welt fabric, and parallel stitching is performed on both sides of the slot. The timing to start cutting and wrapping should be determined by taking into consideration the speed and distance the canvas moves.
It is set in advance so that the cutting and sewing start from a predetermined position on the welt cloth.

Further, the end timing of cutting and sewing may be determined after a predetermined time has elapsed from the start timing of cutting and sewing, which is calculated based on the moving speed of the canvas.
Alternatively, the rear end position of the welt cloth can be detected by the sensor, and the determination can be made based on this.

Next, both ends of the welt in the width direction are passed through the slit and folded into the back side of the body fabric. As a result, the cut end of the slit will be covered and hemmed with the beading cloth. Then, sew the side edges of the welt fabric to the body fabric.

〔Example〕

Next, embodiments will be described with reference to the drawings.

First, the sewing machine used in this example is a sewing machine that automatically sews lidded pockets on the left and right sides of the outside of a suit.
This embodiment uses this sewing machine to create a through pocket without a lid. Therefore, the sewing machine itself is well known, and the present invention is carried out by modifying the operation of the sewing machine. Although a detailed explanation of this sewing machine itself will be omitted, the general idea of this sewing machine is to place the body fabric on the table, move the carriage device, and then use the Stenbel device to grab the bead fabric on the bead placement table. Place it on the body fabric, and while pressing it, actuate the left and right bead cloth pressers provided in the carriage device to form a bead, then move the bead by the gear ridge device, and on the way, press the bead with a center knife. Cut a slit in the center of the welt fabric by the size of the pocket opening, and sew both sides of it simultaneously by the size of the slit using two sewing machine needles, then stop the carriage device and cut both ends of the front and rear slit portions of the welt fabric. This sewing machine uses a corner knife to cut into a V-shape and sews the pocket opening. Such a sewing machine has been known for a long time, and inventions based on this sewing machine with some improvements are disclosed in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 58-27753, Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 58-30052, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-204553. There is something to be written.

In this embodiment, the end portion of the welt cloth 1 is first folded back as shown in FIG. 1 or 2. In the case of FIG. 1, only the ends located on both sides in the longitudinal direction of the slit to be cut in the subsequent process are folded back, and in the case of FIG. 2, both sides of the same slit in the width direction are also folded in, and the folding is performed around four times. It is possible to fold in only both ends as shown in Fig. 1, but it is convenient to fold in all four circumferences as shown in Fig. 2 (for later processing (final sewing). A heat press such as an iron is used to create a crease, and the welt fabric is placed on the welt fabric table 4 of the sewing machine shown in FIG. 3.

On the other hand, the body fabric 2 of the garment is set at a predetermined position on the upper surface of the bed 3 of the sewing machine. The position of setting the body fabric 20 is determined by marks written on the bed 3 or set by other means.

The body fabric 2 is set on the bed 3 at the position where the reflective plate 6 attached to one of the welt pressers forms a slit in the body fabric 2 in the carriage device 7 equipped with left and right welt pressers. Do this so that it is placed on the top surface of body fabric 2 while avoiding. On the upper surface of the body fabric 2, the welt fabric 1 is laid on top of the body fabric 2 in a state in which the entire fabric except the folded edges is spread out by the Stenbel device 5 of the sewing machine. At this time, the carriage device 7 is located above the bed 3 and does not interfere with the spreading of the beading cloth 1, so the Stenbel device 7
The beading cloth 1 carried by is allowed to be spread out as described above. This set of bead cloth 1 includes bead cloth 1
A part of the reflection plate 6 is made to cover a part of the reflection plate 6.

The Stenbel device 5 has a needle at the lower end, and the needle is used to grasp and release the beading fabric 1, and the needle is used to grasp the beading fabrics 1 placed on the beading fabric placing table 4 one by one. Then, as shown in FIG. 3, it is carried to a predetermined position on the body fabric 2 and set.

The Stenbel device 5' is activated by an operator's switch operation after the body fabric 2 is set on the bed 3.

Next, the Stenbel device 5 places the beading fabric 1 on the body fabric 2 as described above and then ascends, while the carriage device 7 descends and presses the overlapping body fabric 2 and beading fabric 1 from above. . Then, the carriage device 7 is placed on the bed 3 with the reflective plate 6 sandwiched between the body fabric 2 and the welt fabric 1.
It is held down by the beaded cloth presser foot. FIG. 4 is a plan view of this state. In the same figure, 6a is a reflective tape applied to the upper surface of the reflective plate 6, and a welt cloth 1 covers the middle of the tape in the longitudinal direction. Therefore, the length of the part of the total length of the reflective tape 6a that does not appear on the surface is the length of the beading cloth 1,
Moreover, the position where the reflective tape 6a is interrupted is the position of the starting end and the ending end of the welt cloth 1.

The body fabric 2 and the welt cloth 1 are moved on the bed 3 toward the sewing machine 8 by the carriage device 7 while being held down by the welt presser of the carriage device 7 with the reflective plate 6 sandwiched therebetween. This situation is shown in Figure 5, where the sewing machine 8
There is an optical sensor 9 in front of the optical sensor 9, which continues to emit light, and when the reflective plate 6 reaches the optical axis, the reflective tape 6
Light is reflected on a. Then, when the tip of the beading cloth 1 reaches the optical axis, the reflection disappears, so the optical sensor 9 detects the tip of the beading cloth 1 at this timing.

This detection signal from the optical sensor 9 is input to the controller 10, and the controller 10 causes the sewing mechanism 8a and the cutting mechanism 8b of the sewing machine 8 to start their operation after a predetermined time delay from when the leading edge of the welt cloth 1 is detected. command. This predetermined time delay is determined by the position of the optical sensor 9 and the sewing mechanism 8.
a. Distance to incision mechanism 8b and carry/scissor device 7
It is calculated from the relationship with the moving speed by
It is assumed that this is set in the controller 10 in advance.

Depending on the sewing mechanism 83, the welt fabric 1 is sewn in two lines parallel to the direction of movement, from the leading end to the trailing end. This is the seam shown as 1) in FIG. Further, depending on the cutting mechanism 8b, a slit 12 is formed in the center between the seams 1) and parallel to the seams 1). Surin) 12
is formed approximately 1 m inward from both the front and rear ends of the welt cloth 1. The rear ends of the seams 1) and the slits 12 are sewn by the controller IO after a predetermined time delay based on the rear end position of the welt cloth 1 detected by the optical sensor 9 in the same manner as described above. Determined by stopping the operation of.

The beading cloth 1 and the body cloth 2 that have been processed by the sewing machine 8 are stopped from moving after passing through the sewing machine 8,
Here, the carriage device 7 rises to release the welt cloth 1 and the body fabric 2, while the carriage device 7 returns to its original position and does not repeat the same operation. Along with the movement of the carriage device 7, the reflection plate 6 also returns to its original position.

Looking at the relationship between the body fabric 2 and the beading fabric 1 in the above process,
As shown in FIG. 8(a), the welt cloth 1 is supplied to the upper surface of the body fabric 2, and then, as shown in FIG. 8(b), parallel seams 1) and slits 12 are formed between them. It will have been formed. In this embodiment, up to this step is automatically performed as described above.

Next, the left and right end portions of the beading material pass through the slit 12 and are folded into the back side of the body fabric 2, as shown in FIG. As a result, the cut end portions of the beading cloth 1 and the body fabric 2 are hemmed at the middle part of the beading cloth 1.

Here, if the free ends (left and right) of the beading cloth 1 have been folded in advance as shown in Figure 2, the outer ends of the beading cloth 1 can be folded into the body fabric as shown in +d) of the same figure. Sew on 2. This seam is indicated by 13. If the free ends (left and right) of the beading cloth 1 are not folded as shown in FIG. 1, they are folded in here and then sewn as shown in FIG. 8(d). Before and after sewing the seams 13, the welt cloth 1 is hot pressed using an iron or the like.

Furthermore, a seam 14 is provided at the end of the slit 12 to prevent breakage due to stress concentration. In this way, the bead A as shown in FIG. 9 is completed.

In this example, an optical sensor was used as a sensor for detecting the leading and trailing end positions of the bead cloth 1, but an ultrasonic sensor, a limit switch, etc. may be used as a sensor capable of detecting the positions. It can also be used. In this case, the end portion of the beading cloth 1 is detected based on the change in thickness depending on the presence or absence of the beading cloth 1. Therefore, the reflector 6 is not necessary. Further, in the above embodiment, the front end and rear end of the beading cloth 1 are detected by the optical sensor 9, but in the case where the lengths of the slit 12 and the seam 1) are determined, , the rear end position may be calculated from the detected front end position. Therefore, in this case, it is not necessary to detect the rear end position using the optical sensor 9.

Furthermore, in each figure showing this example, the beading cloth l
, the thickness of body fabric 2, etc. is larger than other dimensions, and in Figure 3.6, body fabric 2 and hem fabric 1 are larger than other dimensions.
Although a gap is formed between the two, it goes without saying that these expressions are for convenience of explanation.

〔Effect of the invention〕

As explained above, in the present invention, many of the steps in the method of forming bead edges such as through pockets can be automated, and therefore work efficiency can be improved. Further, according to the present invention, the present invention can be easily implemented by improving a conventionally existing sewing machine that automatically sews pockets. It is also possible to do so.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an example of beading cloth, Fig. 2 is a perspective view of another example of beading cloth, Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the beading cloth placed on the body fabric, and Fig. 4 is a perspective view of an example of beading cloth. Figure 5 is a plan view of the upper surfaces of the body fabric and welt fabric held down by the carriage device, Figure 5 is an explanatory diagram of the carriage unit moving the fabric to the sewing machine, and Figure 6 is the sewing mechanism and incision mechanism of the sewing machine. Fig. 7 is a plan view of the state in which a slit and seams are formed on both sides of the slit, and Fig. 8 shows the aging of the beading fabric and body fabric. Fig. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing the changes in the figure, in which the figure (a) shows a state in which the beaded cloth is spread over the body fabric, and the figure (b) shows a state in which slits and seams have been applied.
o) shows a state in which a part of the beading fabric has been folded into the back side of the body fabric, and (d) in the same figure shows a state in which the beading has been completed. vlB's view of Tamabori Seat Troops (Fuji AF's front il blowing. 1... Beaded cloth, 2... Body fabric, 3... Bed,
4... Beading placing stand, 5... Stenbel device, 6...
... Reflective plate, 6a... Reflective tape, 7... Carriage device, 8... Sewing machine, 8a... Sewing mechanism, 8b...
...Notch f14.9...Light sensor, 10...
Controller, 1)...Stitch, 12...Slit.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) In order to create a through pocket etc., a linear slit is formed in the body of the garment, and a bead cloth is applied between the front and back of the garment through the edge of the slit to frame the slit. The method for forming a hem includes (a) a step of folding back the end portions of the welt cloth that should be located at least on both sides in the longitudinal direction of the slit; (b) a step of setting the body fabric of the garment on a table; (c) (d) stacking the beading cloth with its ends folded back on top of the body fabric in a state where the whole is spread out except for the folded ends; (d) the beading fabric and the body fabric which have been spread out and overlapped; (e) detecting the tip position of the moving welt cloth; (f) detecting the position of the tip of the detected welt cloth; (g) Starting the cutting of a slit between the overlapped body fabric and welt fabric using the notch section of the sewing machine based on the tip position; a step of sewing the overlapped body fabric and beading cloth in parallel on both sides of the slit in the sewing section; (h) a step of finishing the cutting and sewing of the slit at a predetermined position; Both widthwise ends of the slit in the hem cloth,
(j) a step of hemming the slit of the body fabric with a welt cloth by passing it through the slit and folding it under the body fabric; and (j) sewing the side edges of the welt fabric to the body fabric. A method for forming a beaded edge of a through pocket, etc., characterized by: (2) The step of detecting the tip position of the welt cloth includes placing a reflective plate whose upper surface is treated to reflect light on the upper surface of the body fabric, avoiding the position where the slit is formed in the body fabric;
With the beading cloth overlaid on the upper surface of the body fabric so that a part of the reflecting plate is covered, the beading cloth, the reflector, and the body fabric are directed toward the notch and sewing part of the sewing machine using a carriage. The bead of a penetrating pocket or the like according to claim 1 is moved, and during this movement, a reflector is irradiated with light and reflected, and the discontinuation of the reflection detects the tip position of the moving bead cloth. How to form.