JPS62223369A - Method and apparatus for producing raised fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a raised fabric and an apparatus for producing the same, and more specifically, to a method for manufacturing a raised fabric and an apparatus for producing the same, and more specifically, to a method for producing a raised fabric that provides a high-class feel in a finishing process. The present invention relates to a manufacturing method and an apparatus thereof.

[Prior art and its problems]

In general, napped fabrics consist of a base fabric and napped fibers, and the napped fibers are exposed on the surface, so the commercial value is determined by the form of the napped fibers. Particularly in the case of artificial fur, the angle of the hair, the direction of the hair, the ability to recover from reverse stroking, the breeze, the luster, the straightness of the hair, etc. are important factors that determine the product value.

These factors are controlled by the finishing process of the napped fibers, and a polisher machine consisting of a rotating heat cylinder has traditionally been used for this finishing process. However, in the case of high-quality products, especially artificial fur, finishing using only a polisher machine does not result in a uniform coat, the tangles in the cotton wool are not opened, and recovery performance is poor due to reverse stroking, and the curling of the bristles cannot be improved. . In addition, if the temperature and rotation speed of the heat cylinder of the polisher machine are increased, the hair may curl, bend, or become fibrillated at the tip, resulting in an unsightly appearance, and the gloss and surface roughness may worsen. Unfortunately, the polisher machine had no effect. In particular, with artificial fur, in order to achieve a more natural appearance, the tip of the raised fur, especially the tip of the hair, is made sharper, or fibers with irregular cross-sections, such as flat crosses or ellipses, are used as the raised hair. As such, these sharpened fibers and irregular cross-section fibers are typically particularly susceptible to fibrillation by nature when passed through a rotating thermal cylinder. Since the hair fibers are usually thick, such as several tens of deniers, and the tips of the hair are located on the surface, this type of fibrillation significantly improves the luster, depth of color, and touch. This reduces the product value and becomes a fatal product defect for expansion into the luxury field.

In the past, various conditions for polisher machines have been studied while taking these problems into consideration, but as yet no satisfactory high-quality artificial fur or finishing technology for high-class artificial fur has been achieved. is the current situation. Furthermore, when polishing a long-pile fabric that is not artificial fur, the fibers become tangled and breakage occurs, making it impossible to obtain a shiny, luxurious product.

[Purpose of the invention]

An object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art described above and to provide a method and apparatus for producing a raised fabric that has an excellent glossy and luxurious effect.

[Structure of the invention]

In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention performs at least one of a moisture imparting treatment and a combing treatment on the raised portion in the finishing process of a pile fabric formed by raising a large number of raised fibers from a base fabric. Afterwards, the raised fabric is subjected to finishing processing using a rotating heat cylinder. Furthermore, the apparatus for carrying out the present invention is characterized in that at least one of a moisture imparting mechanism and a combing mechanism is installed in front of the finishing section consisting of a rotary heat cylinder.

The present inventors have come to the conclusion that in the finishing of high-quality pile fabrics, especially artificial fur, there is a limit to the processing conditions of a polisher machine alone. We earnestly considered ways to improve this. As a result, by adding moisture to and/or combing the raised portions of the napped fabric before polishing as described in the configuration of the present invention, we succeeded in obtaining a luxurious feel that was completely impossible in the past. .

The raised fabric to be finished in the present invention is a pile fabric formed by raising a large number of raised fibers from a base fabric, and the base fabric may be a two-knit woven fabric, a non-woven fabric, or the like.

Alternatively, it may be in any form such as a combination thereof. Further, the raised portion may be formed of pile yarn with a two-knit structure, or formed of fibers by a bunching method.

Further, the napped fibers may be either chemical fibers or natural fibers, and there are no restrictions on fiber length, thickness, etc.

In order to obtain a napped fabric with a high-class feel, it is preferable that the nap fibers have a two-layered structure consisting of long fibers for brushing and short fibers for fluff, and It is preferable to use at least one kind of napped fiber whose tip end is tapered and sharpened.

The moisture used in the moisture imparting treatment includes not only water but also appropriate aqueous solutions or aqueous dispersions.

Specific examples include softeners, water repellents, TA oil agents, polishing agents, and antistatic agents used as fiber finishing agents.

An aqueous solution or dispersion of a flame retardant, a penetrant, etc. can be used.

Methods for applying moisture include a method of applying moisture to the entire napped fabric and a method of applying moisture only to the napped fibers, but preferably a method of applying an appropriate amount only to the napped fibers is preferred. As a specific application means, it is better to use a spray device.

The combing process is more effective if the tip of the comb reaches the roots of the napped fibers. Therefore, it is necessary to appropriately determine the shape, length, and density of the comb teeth so that the comb can easily enter the napped fibers. There are two ways to fix the comb and to move it, but it is preferable to force the comb to move, which is more effective.

At least one of the above-mentioned moisture imparting treatment and threading treatment to the raised portion may be performed, but both treatments are preferably performed before passing through the rotary heat cylinder.

The rotating heat cylinder can basically have the same structure as that used for conventional polishing, but its surface temperature must be 180°C or less in order to obtain the same effect as steam ironing. It is preferable to do so. 180
If it is higher than 'C, water often evaporates during treatment, which is not preferable. Further, the lower limit of the temperature is about 70°C. Further, the surface of the rotary heat cylinder may be smooth, but in order to particularly improve the effect, it is preferable to provide a plurality of grooves on the surface and provide edges at the ends of the grooves. As this blade, a flat blade, a saw blade, or the like can be used.

When the napped fabric is passed through such a rotating heat cylinder, it is usually preferable to pass it through multiple times so that the napped portion is in contact with the cylinder surface. At this time, it is preferable to perform the treatment by combining forward passing, in which the heat cylinder rotates in the grain direction along the direction of the pile of the raised fabric, and reverse passing, in which the heat cylinder rotates in the direction opposite to the direction of the pile. In other words, it is preferable to use a combination of a method of laying down the raised hair and a method of raising it on end.

1 to 4 each show a schematic diagram of a raised fabric processing apparatus according to the present invention, and FIG. 5 shows a conventional apparatus for comparison.

In the figure, 3 is a rotary heat cylinder similar to that conventionally used, and 4 is a raised fabric to be finished.

The raised fabric 4 travels in the direction of arrow A and is processed. In the conventional apparatus shown in FIG. 5, only the rotary heat cylinder 3 was provided.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, a spray device 1 as a moisture applying mechanism and a brush roll 2 as a combing mechanism are arranged in this order in front of the rotary heat cylinder 3 along the running direction of the napmed fabric 4.

In the embodiment of FIG. 2, a brush roll 2 is arranged in front of the spray device 1. Further, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, only the spray device 1 is arranged in front of the rotary heat cylinder 3, and in the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, only the brush roll 2 is arranged in front of the rotary heat cylinder 3.

The brush roll 2 mentioned above may rotate in either direction or may be stationary. The rotating heat cylinder 3 may also rotate in either direction, and the surface of the cylinder may or may not have grooves. good.

In the process before the rotary heat cylinder described above, when moisture is added, some of the water evaporates due to the heat of the rotary heat cylinder, and the steam and heat of the rotary heat cylinder have the same effect as steam ironing on the napped fibers. It works to straighten the curls of the napped fibers and add luster. In addition, in the case of napped fibers with crimps, the crimps are appropriately stretched by heating and heat set. Therefore, a raised fabric with a luxurious feel can be obtained.

There are no restrictions on the amount of moisture applied, but if too much moisture is applied, the fibers will stick together, resulting in poor separation or a drop in the surface temperature of the heat cylinder, making the heat setting less effective. It may happen. On the other hand, if the amount is small, the water may completely evaporate and curling and fibrillation of the napped fibers may occur more easily. In particular, in the case of artificial fur, the amount of moisture attached to the raw fabric is 10 to 2
00 g/n (is the appropriate amount.

When combing is performed, the napped fibers are combed to loosen the tangles of the fibers, raise the fibers, and give directionality to the fibers. Particularly in the case of mink-like artificial fur, the hair can be straight with no bends or curls, and the fluff can be voluminous with less tangles. In addition, both the brushed hair and the fallen hair are given an appropriate raised angle and directionality, and when combined with the later rotating heat cylinder, these effects become extremely noticeable.

〔Example〕

A fur-like pile fabric was produced by the method described in JP-A-57-61739. This pile fabric is intended to have a high-quality mink look, and has a two-layer structure of two types of nap: the first-dyed nape-like nape and the first-dyed cotton-like nape.

The compositions of the pile fabric and the fluffy nap of this pile fabric were as follows. In addition, staple fibers having sharpened ends and a cross-sectional shape of a flattened cross are used for raising the hair.

Hair-like raised hair: Thickness is 40 d, maximum raised length is 30 weight, and the material is polyethylene terephthalate.

Cotton-like raised hair: Thickness 1.2 d, maximum raised length 20 cranes, material is polyethylene terephthalate.

This pile fabric is based on a double velvet loom.

The pile fabrics thus obtained were finished using the apparatuses shown in FIGS. 1 to 5. A spray gun was used as the moisture application device at that time. In addition, in order to uniformly apply water to the pile fabric, the spray gun was oscillated to apply 50 g/n to the pile fabric. I tried to attach it.

(The setting device used a brush roll, and the brush part was made of stainless steel wire, size #33, length 30 gm, needle head density 190. Also, the rotation speed was 30 rpm.
The direction of rotation was the same as that of the rotating heat cylinder.

The rotating heat cylinder has a diameter of 500 mm and a depth of Ion on the surface.
The one with two diagonal grooves and a surface plated finish was used. Surface temperature 170℃, rotation speed 7
00 rpm, and the contact length between the pile fabric and the roll surface was 10 cm.

The raised fabric was passed through twice at a processing speed of 5 m/min. The first time, the hair was passed through from the root to the tip in a direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the rotating heat cylinder, and the second time, the hair was passed through in the grain direction.

After finishing, it was dried in a dryer, and the appearance quality of the obtained artificial fur was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

From Table 1, it can be seen that the methods shown in FIGS. 1 to 4 of the present invention are considerably more effective than the conventional method shown in FIG.

(Margin below) Chapter 1 Table The evaluation in the table was performed as follows.

[Gloss]: Original fabric erected vertically with natural light from the north window, 1
Judgment was made with the naked eye from a distance of m.

○: Something with the same luster as natural mink.

△: Slightly less glossy than natural mink.

×: The surface is whitish (shiny, matte).

[Reverse stroking]: Based on the feeling of hand movement when stroking in the opposite direction with the palm of the hand.

○: Smooth movement with no resistance, comparable to natural mink.

△: Sometimes there is a feeling of resistance as if it was caught.

×: The hand cannot reach the root of the raised part and there is a feeling of getting caught.

[Surface touch] Based on the feel of the fingers when lightly stroking in the grain direction with the palms of two hands.

○: Good slippage, no feeling of roughness. Similar to natural mink.

△: Slightly rough feeling.

×: A feeling of rough resistance is felt.

[Straightness of the hair]: The straightness of each hair and the disturbance in the direction of the hair were observed.

○: Each hair is straight and taut, with the same direction.

△: The hair is slightly curled or bent.

×: The hair is curled, bent, disordered, or visually unsatisfactory.

[Fibrillation at the tip of the hair]: The tapered tip of the hair became fibrillated due to physical rubbing, and it was visually determined that it appeared white.

○: No fibrillation.

△: Some or part of the hair was fibrillated.

×: Severe fibrillation and a whitish appearance.

〔Effect of the invention〕

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a raised fabric that has a luxurious feel, especially artificial fur, and a fabric that has a luxurious feel comparable to that of natural fur.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIGS. 1 to 4 are schematic diagrams of an apparatus for producing a raised fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a conventional apparatus. 1... Spray device (moisture imparting mechanism), 2... Brush roll (<shipping mechanism), 3... Rotating heat cylinder, 4... Raised fabric.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) In the finishing process of a pile fabric in which a large number of napped fibers are napped from a base fabric, the napped portion is subjected to at least one of a moisture imparting process and a combing process, and then the napped fabric is heated in a rotating heat cylinder. A method for manufacturing a raised fabric, which is characterized by finishing. (2) The method for producing a napped fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least some of the napped fibers have sharpened tips. (3) A method for manufacturing a napped fabric according to claim 1 or 2, in which the napped fabric is passed through a rotating heat cylinder multiple times in the normal direction along the direction of the nap and in the opposite direction, in the opposite direction. . (4) An apparatus for producing a raised fabric, characterized in that at least one of a moisture imparting mechanism and a combing mechanism is installed in front of a finishing section consisting of a rotating heat cylinder.