JPS62141104A - Production of collar of suits - Google Patents
Production of collar of suitsInfo
- Publication number
- JPS62141104A JPS62141104A JP28140285A JP28140285A JPS62141104A JP S62141104 A JPS62141104 A JP S62141104A JP 28140285 A JP28140285 A JP 28140285A JP 28140285 A JP28140285 A JP 28140285A JP S62141104 A JPS62141104 A JP S62141104A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- collar
- back collar
- cutting
- blade
- sew
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Landscapes
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】 発明の目的 （産業上の利用分野） この方法は洋服の衿の製造方法に関するものである。[Detailed description of the invention] purpose of invention (Industrial application field) This method relates to a method for manufacturing collars of clothes.
（従来の技術）
従来、例えば大量生産される既製服の衿を作る際には、
裏面に芯地が取着された生地を型紙寸法通りに裁断する
かプレスで打ち夫いて第９図（ａ）、 （ｂ）に示す
ような所定形状の裏衿３１と裏衿３２を形成し、次に第
１Ｏ図に示すように裏衿３１と裏衿３２を互いにその裏
面の芯地３３，３４が表になるように、つまり中表に合
わせて、衿付は縫いしろ３５．３６を除き、裏衿３１と
裏衿３２の周辺を互いに縫着する。そして、その状態で
縫い合わせ部を平坦にするために、いわゆるわりアイロ
ンをかける。次に裏衿３１と裏衿３２を表返しにして、
第１１図に示すように縫い合わせ部が裏衿の方に約２鰭
程度寄るように、いわゆる控えアイロンをかける。(Conventional technology) Conventionally, for example, when making collars for mass-produced ready-made clothing,
The fabric with the interlining attached to the back side is cut according to the dimensions of the pattern or is pressed using a press to form the back collar 31 and back collar 32 in predetermined shapes as shown in FIGS. 9(a) and 9(b). Next, as shown in Figure 1O, align the back collar 31 and the back collar 32 so that the interlinings 33 and 34 on the back side are facing out, that is, with the inside facing out. Then, the peripheries of the back collar 31 and the back collar 32 are sewn together. Then, in this state, a so-called warping iron is applied to flatten the seamed portion. Next, turn the back collar 31 and back collar 32 inside out,
As shown in Figure 11, apply a so-called back iron so that the seam is about two fins closer to the back collar.
（発明が解決しようとする問題点）
ところが前記従来の方法では最初に正確に型抜きもしく
は裁断をしても、わりアイロン、控えアイロンが縫い合
わせ部の厚みにより均一にかけられないので、衿付は縫
いしろの寸法が不均一となるため、再度層性裏面に出来
上がり寸法に合わせて型描きをし、鋏で裁断を行う必要
があり、その所要時間がそれぞれ１０−１５秒、１５〜
２０秒と大変手間がかかるという問題点があった。又、
型描きをする際に、型紙で印をつける時の誤差や鋏で裁
断する時の誤差が合わせて２〜３鰭程度出来るという問
題点もあった。(Problem to be Solved by the Invention) However, in the conventional method described above, even if the die is cut or cut accurately at first, the warping iron and the pressing iron cannot be applied evenly due to the thickness of the seamed part, so the collar is attached without being sewn. Because the dimensions of the margins are uneven, it is necessary to draw a pattern on the back of the layer again according to the finished dimensions and cut it with scissors, which takes 10-15 seconds and 15-15 seconds respectively.
There was a problem in that it took 20 seconds, which was very time consuming. or,
When drawing the pattern, there was also the problem that errors in marking with the paper pattern and errors in cutting with scissors resulted in a total of about 2 to 3 fins.
発明の構成
゛ （問題点を解決するための手段）
前記問題点を解決するために、この発明においては、少
なくともいずれか一方に芯地が取着された裏衿と塵性の
衿付は縫いしろを余裕をもたせて形成し、その裏衿と塵
性の周辺を縫いしろを除いて互いに縫着し、わりアイロ
ン、控えアイロンをかけた後抜型で打ち抜いて衿付は縫
いしろを所定の形状に形成するという方法を採用した。Structure of the Invention (Means for Solving the Problems) In order to solve the above problems, in the present invention, the back collar having an interlining attached to at least one side and the dust-resistant collar are sewn together. Form the seams with plenty of room, then sew the back collar and the dusty surroundings to each other, excluding the seam allowance. After ironing and back ironing, punch out with a punching die to attach the collar to the specified shape. We adopted the method of forming
（作用）
従って、この発明においては、控えアイロンをかけた後
、型紙、鋏等を使用することなく抜型で打ち抜くことに
より短時間で衿付は縫いしろが所定の形状に形成される
。(Function) Therefore, in the present invention, after the fabric is ironed, the fabric is punched out with a cutting die without using a paper pattern, scissors, etc., so that the seam allowance for the collar can be formed into a predetermined shape in a short time.
（実施例）
以下、この発明の方法を具体化した一実施例を第１図〜
第８図に従って説明する。(Example) Hereinafter, an example embodying the method of this invention is shown in Figs.
This will be explained according to FIG.
まず、最初にこの実施例において用いられる生地と装置
について説明する。First, the fabric and equipment used in this example will be explained.
第１図（ａ）、 （ｂ″）に示されるｌは裏衿、２は
塵性であって、それぞれ裏面には芯地３，４が取着され
るとともに、一点鎖線で示される取付は縫いしろ５，６
が余裕を持って幅広に形成されている。In FIGS. 1(a) and (b''), 1 is the back collar, 2 is the dust liner, and the interlinings 3 and 4 are attached to the back side, respectively, and the attachment shown by the dashed line is Sewing allowance 5,6
is formed wide with plenty of room.
第２図に示される７は抜型であって、横断面が２Ｉｍの
段差を有する凹凸状に形成された刃体部８と枠体９とよ
り形成され、両者は補強片工０により互いに連結固定さ
れている。１１は裏衿１と塵性２に後中心を印すために
前記刃体部８の中央から内側へと突設され下端に刃先が
設けられた切込刃である。１２は裏衿ｌと塵性２に肩線
を印すために、刃体部８内側に切込刃１１と等距離をお
いて突設され下端に刃先が設けられた一対の切込刃であ
る。１３は裏衿ｌと塵性２に約１ｃｍの縫いしろを印す
ために、刃体部８の一端寄りから内側へと突設され下端
に刃先が設けられた切込刃である。Reference numeral 7 shown in FIG. 2 is a cutting die, which is made up of a blade part 8 and a frame body 9, each having an uneven cross section with a step of 2 Im, and a frame 9, both of which are connected and fixed to each other by a reinforcing piece 0. has been done. Reference numeral 11 denotes a cutting blade which projects inward from the center of the blade portion 8 and has a cutting edge at its lower end in order to mark the back center of the back collar 1 and dust cover 2. Reference numeral 12 denotes a pair of notch blades that are protruded from the inside of the blade body 8 at the same distance as the notch blade 11 and have a cutting edge at the lower end in order to mark a shoulder line on the back collar 1 and the dust 2. be. Reference numeral 13 denotes a cutting blade which protrudes inward from one end of the blade portion 8 and has a cutting edge at its lower end in order to mark a seam allowance of approximately 1 cm on the back collar 1 and the dust cover 2.
第３図に示される１４は裁断用のプレス装置であって、
上部枕板１５と裁断する生地を置く下盤１６が設けられ
ている。14 shown in FIG. 3 is a press device for cutting,
An upper pillow board 15 and a lower board 16 on which the fabric to be cut is placed are provided.
以下主として上述の生地や装置を使用して衿を形成する
方法を説明する。A method of forming a collar using the above-described fabric and apparatus will be mainly described below.
まず裏衿１と塵性２を互いに芯地３，４が表となるよう
に裏返して、つまり中表に合わせてパターンシーマ−又
はオートフォーマ−にて第４図に示すように衿付は縫い
しろ５．６を除いて裏衿ｌと塵性２の周辺を互いに縫着
する。次に裏衿ｌと塵性２の縫着部を平坦にするために
第５図に示すような状態でいわゆるわりアイロンをかけ
る。続いて裏衿１と塵性２を表返しにした後、第６図に
示すように縫い合わせ部が裏衿２寄りとなるように、い
わゆる控えアイロンをかける。その後第３図に示すよう
にプレス装置１４の下盤１６上に縫着済みの裏衿１と塵
性２を置き、さらにその上に裏衿ｌと塵性２の上端に枠
体９内側が接するように抜型７を配置してプレスすると
、裏衿１と塵性２の衿付は縫いしろ５，６が揃った状態
に裁断され、第７図に示すような衿が形成される。この
裁断作業に要する時間は約５秒である。First, turn the back collar 1 and the dust jacket 2 inside out so that the interlinings 3 and 4 are facing up, and sew the collar with a pattern sear or autoformer according to the inside and outside sides, as shown in Figure 4. Sew the back collar 1 and the periphery of the dust jacket 2 to each other, except for the margins 5 and 6. Next, in order to flatten the sewn portion of the back collar 1 and the dust 2, a so-called warping iron is applied in the state shown in FIG. Next, after turning the back collar 1 and the dust jacket 2 inside out, a so-called back iron is applied so that the seam portion is closer to the back collar 2, as shown in FIG. Thereafter, as shown in FIG. 3, place the sewn back collar 1 and dust jacket 2 on the lower plate 16 of the press device 14, and place the inner side of the frame 9 on the upper end of the back collar 1 and dust jacket 2. When the cutting die 7 is arranged and pressed so that they are in contact with each other, the back collar 1 and the collar attachment of the dust type 2 are cut so that the seam allowances 5 and 6 are aligned, and a collar as shown in FIG. 7 is formed. The time required for this cutting operation is about 5 seconds.
この実施例においては、使用する抜型７の刃体部８を２
鶴の差を有する平面凹凸状に形成したことにより、第７
図に示すように裏衿１．裏衿２それぞれに凹部１７．凸
部１８が形成される。従って、第８図に示すように、身
ごろ１９に衿を縫着する際に裏衿１は縫いしろ５を凸部
１８から１ｃｍに、塵性２は縫いしろ６を凹部１７から
１ｃｍとることにより、裏衿１の方が塵性２より２ｆｌ
長い状態で縫着されるので完成時の衿が折れた状態であ
っても、裏衿１はひきつることなくきれいに縫着される
という利点がある。In this embodiment, the blade portion 8 of the cutting die 7 used is
By forming a planar uneven shape with a crane's difference, the seventh
As shown in the figure, the back collar 1. Recessed portion 17 on each back collar 2. A convex portion 18 is formed. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 8, when sewing the collar to the body 19, the seam allowance 5 for the back collar 1 is set 1 cm from the convex part 18, and the seam allowance 6 for the back collar 2 is set 1 cm from the concave part 17. , back collar 1 is 2fl more than dust 2
Since it is sewn in a long state, there is an advantage that even if the completed collar is in a broken state, the back collar 1 can be sewn neatly without twitching.
又、刃体部８に設けられた切込刃１１及び切込刃１２に
より、第７図に示すように裏衿１．裏衿２それぞれに切
れ込み２０．２１が形成され、身ごろ１９に縫着する際
に後中心と肩線が明確となリ、切込刃１３によって切れ
込み２２が形成されてｌ ａｍの幅の縫いしろが明示さ
れ、縫製作業が行い易いという利点もある。Further, the cutting blade 11 and the cutting blade 12 provided on the blade body part 8 cut the back collar 1. as shown in FIG. Notches 20 and 21 are formed in each of the back collars 2, so that the back center and shoulder line are clear when sewing to the body 19, and a notch 22 is formed by the notch blade 13 to allow sewing a width of lam. There is also the advantage that the sewing operation is clearly made and sewing work is easy to perform.
なお、この発明は前記実施例に限定されるものではなく
、例えば衿の形状に合わせて抜型の形状を変えたり、抜
型の刃体部の凹凸をなくしたり、容性の裏面に芯地だけ
ではなくさらにその上に別の生地を取着したり、衿を打
ち抜く際に抜型を刃体部が上になるようにプレス装置の
下盤上に置き、枠体内側に表片と裏片の上端が接するよ
うに抜型の補強片上に配置してプレスする等、この発明
の趣旨を逸脱しない範囲で各部の形状、構成等を任意に
変更することも可能である。Note that the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments; for example, the shape of the cutting die may be changed to match the shape of the collar, the unevenness of the blade of the cutting die may be eliminated, or the back side of the cutting die may be made of an interlining. When punching out a collar, place the cutting die on the lower plate of the press with the blade facing upwards, and insert the upper edges of the front and back pieces inside the frame. It is also possible to arbitrarily change the shape, structure, etc. of each part without departing from the spirit of the invention, such as by placing the reinforcing piece of the cutting die so that the two are in contact with each other and pressing.
発明の効果
この発明においては、従来の控えアイロンをかけた後裏
地に型描きをして裁断するという方法と異なり抜型で打
ち抜くだけで衿付は縫いしろを所定の形状に形成できる
ようになり、所要時間が約１１５〜１／７となり、作業
能率の向上、簡素化が図れる上、型描きして裁断した時
の製作誤差が２〜３ ａｍであるのに対して打ち抜いて
形成した場合には０．５龍以下となるという優れた効果
を奏する。Effects of the Invention In this invention, unlike the conventional method of drawing a pattern on the lining after ironing and cutting, it is now possible to form the seam allowance in a predetermined shape by simply punching out with a cutting die. The time required is about 115 to 1/7, which improves work efficiency and simplifies the work. In addition, the production error when drawing and cutting is 2 to 3 am, whereas when forming by punching, the manufacturing error is 2 to 3 am. It has an excellent effect of being 0.5 dragon or less.
第１図（ａ）、（ｂ）はそれぞれこの発明を具体化した
実施例で使用される表片、裏片を示す斜視図、第２図は
同じ〈実施例で使用される抜型を示す斜視図、第３図は
同じ〈実施例で使用されるプレス装置を示す斜視図、第
４図はこの発明を具体化した実施例の説明のための衿の
斜視図、第５゜６図は同じく縦断面図、第７図は同じく
斜視図、第８図はこの発明の方法で形成された衿の取着
状態を示す縦断面図、第９図（ａ）、（ｂ）、第１０図
は従来の衿の形成方法を説明するための斜視図、第１１
図は同じく縦断面図である。Figures 1 (a) and (b) are perspective views showing the front piece and back piece used in an embodiment embodying this invention, respectively, and Figure 2 is a perspective view showing the same cutting die used in the embodiment. Figures 3 and 3 are the same (a perspective view showing the press device used in the embodiment), Figure 4 is a perspective view of the collar for explaining the embodiment embodying this invention, and Figures 5 and 6 are the same. 7 is a perspective view, FIG. 8 is a longitudinal sectional view showing how the collar formed by the method of the present invention is attached, and FIGS. 9(a), (b), and 10 are Perspective view for explaining the conventional collar forming method, No. 11
The figure is also a longitudinal sectional view.
Claims (1)
芯地（３、４）を取着するとともに、同表衿（１）と裏
衿（２）の衿付け縫いしろ（５、６）を余裕を持たせて
形成し、前記表衿（１）と裏衿（２）を中合わせにした
状態で衿付け縫いしろ（５、６）を除く周辺部において
互いに縫着し、わりアイロンをかけた後に表返して控え
アイロンをかけ、縫い合わせ部を裏衿（２）寄りにした
後、表衿（１）と裏衿（２）の衿付け縫いしろ（５、６
）を抜型（７）で打ち抜いて所定の形状に形成すること
を特徴とする洋服の衿の製造方法。1. Attach the interlining (3, 4) to at least one of the front collar (1) and back collar (2), and sew the front collar (1) and back collar (2) together ( 5 and 6) with some allowance, and with the front collar (1) and back collar (2) centered, sew them together at the periphery except for the collar attachment seam allowances (5, 6). , After ironing, turn it inside out and iron it with a back iron, and after making the seam part closer to the back collar (2), sew the collar attaching stitches (5, 6) of the front collar (1) and the back collar (2).
) is punched out with a cutting die (7) to form it into a predetermined shape.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28140285A JPS62141104A (en) | 1985-12-13 | 1985-12-13 | Production of collar of suits |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28140285A JPS62141104A (en) | 1985-12-13 | 1985-12-13 | Production of collar of suits |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS62141104A true JPS62141104A (en) | 1987-06-24 |
Family
ID=17638643
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28140285A Pending JPS62141104A (en) | 1985-12-13 | 1985-12-13 | Production of collar of suits |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS62141104A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0551805A (en) * | 1991-08-19 | 1993-03-02 | Tokyo Maruto:Kk | Collar incorporately together containing neck band cloth |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5631004A (en) * | 1979-08-21 | 1981-03-28 | Yoshio Moriguchi | Flap molding apparatus for pocket |
-
1985
- 1985-12-13 JP JP28140285A patent/JPS62141104A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5631004A (en) * | 1979-08-21 | 1981-03-28 | Yoshio Moriguchi | Flap molding apparatus for pocket |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH0551805A (en) * | 1991-08-19 | 1993-03-02 | Tokyo Maruto:Kk | Collar incorporately together containing neck band cloth |
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