JPS6143458B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a flannel type knitted fabric with high pleat retention properties, which is composed of a blended yarn of ultra-fine synthetic fibers and wool fibers.

Traditionally, flannel fabrics are made from 100% wool, and have a warm texture due to the effect of shrinkage, high density, and firm elasticity, making them excellent clothing fabrics, and are often used for pants. It's here.
However, since these pants are made of 100% wool, the pleats on the pants quickly disappear when exposed to moisture, and the pants tend to come loose at the knees, which has not been resolved.

In order to solve this drawback, attempts have been made to blend synthetic fibers with wool fibers, and this has greatly improved pleat retention, dimensional stability, and strength and durability, but on the other hand, The shrinkage characteristic of flannel fabrics has been extremely reduced, and up to now it has been impossible to obtain flannel fabrics with a good felt feel. Therefore, as a result of various analyzes to find out why the shrinkability decreases when blending synthetic fibers and wool fibers using conventional technology, we found that
The present inventors were able to find out that the reason lies in the following points.

In other words, the raw fiber fineness of synthetic fibers mixed with wool fibers is usually 2d to 4d (approximately 14μ to 23μ), and in the blended yarn, synthetic fibers are interposed between wool fibers. . On the other hand, these synthetic fibers do not have the same scale as wool fibers, so even if a shrinking effect is applied, the synthetic fibers will prevent the wool fibers from coming into contact with each other, so the scale effect between wool fibers cannot be exerted. This means that high shrinkage cannot be achieved. If you compare wool to a ``saw'' and synthetic fibers to a ``glass rod,'' just as you can't cut a ``glass rod'' with a ``saw,'' you won't be able to shrink the fibers. Even if a certain level of low shrinkage is achieved, compared to 100% wool woven or knitted fabrics,
This means that the shrinking time will be four times longer. In addition, for textile finishes that require napping after the fulling process, such as flannel, there were problems with 2D to 4D synthetic fiber blends having poor napping properties and taking nearly twice as long to nap. .

The present invention has been made through intensive studies to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks, and by using ultra-fine synthetic fibers of a certain diameter or less, it is possible to maintain mutual contact between wool fibers even in synthetic fiber blends, thereby achieving a shrinkage characteristic of 100% wool. They discovered that it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a similar texture, leading to the present invention.

The present invention has the following configuration.

That is, in the present invention, wool fibers are produced by making a woolen knitted fabric in which 30 to 70% of ultra-fine synthetic fibers with a maximum diameter of 6 μ (0.35 d or less in the case of polyester fibers) or less and 70 to 30% of wool fibers are mixed. By maintaining mutual contact within the woven fabric and improving the shrinkage properties, it eliminates the above-mentioned drawbacks and problems, and at the same time takes advantage of the characteristics of synthetic fibers.
The object of the present invention is to provide a crimp woven or knitted fabric with excellent feel and functionality that fully takes advantage of pleat retention, dimensional stability, W&W properties, and durability.

The present invention has the following configuration.

That is, the present invention uses 30 to 70% ultra-fine polyester synthetic fibers with a maximum diameter of 6μ or less and 70 to 30% wool fibers.
The present invention relates to a highly shrinkable flannelette woven or knitted fabric made of a blended yarn of

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail based on the drawings.

The ultra-fine polyester synthetic fibers in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by composite spinning technology, and conventional methods can be used to staple these long fibers.

Figure 1 shows a cross-section of the yarn structure of the present invention before shrinking. Before shrinking, ultra-fine polyester synthetic fibers 1 and wool fibers 2 are randomly arranged to form a specified blending ratio. are doing. Furthermore, at least half of the wool fibers are in contact with each other. When a woven or knitted fabric made of these yarns undergoes a fulling process, the wool portions that come into contact with each other undergo fulling due to the action of the fulling agent and physical external force. Then, the ultra-fine polyester fiber 1 shown in FIG. 2 enters the gap between the wool fibers 2. In this case, if the ultrafine fibers have a diameter of 6 μm or less, they will fit into the gaps between the two wool fibers and will not prevent the wool fibers from coming into contact with each other. Therefore, it became clear in the process of developing the present invention that the number of contact points between the wool fibers is increased, the entanglement of the two wool fibers is increased, and the synergistic effect is to accelerate the shrinkage of the wool.

It was also confirmed that the ultra-fine fibers of No. 1 interposed in the wool fibers were effective in leaving their initial position due to the "kneading" action of the fibers and easily moving to other positions.

In other words, ultra-fine polyester synthetic fibers are extremely promising as synthetic fibers to be blended into woolen knitted fabrics that require fulling, and in order to achieve an effect that hardly inhibits the shrinking properties of 100% wool, it is necessary to use ultra-fine fibers. It has also become clear that the maximum diameter needs to be 6μ or less. 6μ or less means that it is thin enough to fit into the gaps between wool fibers even when they are in contact with each other.

On the other hand, the shrinkage properties of conventional blended woven and knitted fabrics of synthetic fibers 2d to 4d and wool fibers will be explained with reference to FIGS. 3 and 4. Conventionally, the raw cotton fineness of synthetic fibers mixed with wool fibers is usually around 3D (approximately 17 to 19μ). These synthetic fibers do not have scale like wool fibers. In Figure 3 before fullening, the synthetic fibers 3 and the wool fibers 2 are arranged randomly to form a specified blending ratio, but the thick synthetic fibers prevent the wool fibers from coming into contact with each other. It is being Therefore, even if a woven or knitted fabric made of these yarns goes through the fulling process, as shown in Figure 4, the synthetic fibers 3 and the wool fibers 2 will have relatively large gaps, just as they were before fulling. The distance between the two wool fibers is also large, so that there is no contact between the wool fibers, so that shrinkage due to scale does not occur, and therefore, no entanglement or growth occurs. In other words, the synthetic fiber No. 3 has the effect of extremely inhibiting the shrinkage of the wool fiber No. 2. As for these inhibitory effects, the thicker the fineness of the synthetic fibers to be mixed, the greater the distance between the wool fibers, and the lower the shrinkage. In addition, if the synthetic fibers are thicker, the movement of the synthetic fibers during the "kneading" action in the shrinking process will be reduced, which will impede the movement of the wool fibers, and the inhibitory effect will be strong, making it impossible to obtain high shrinkage properties. become.

Therefore, with conventional techniques, it has not been possible to obtain the high shrinkage properties of 100% wool with knitted woolen fabrics that are blended with a large amount of synthetic fibers.

Figure 5 shows woolen fabrics and knitted fabrics blended with polyester fibers having a maximum diameter of 2μ according to the present invention, and conventional woolen fabrics and knitted fabrics.
It is a comparison diagram of the shrinking speed under constant shrinking conditions with a polyester 50/wool fabric blended with 50% 3D polyester raw cotton. It shows that the quality is very good.

In order for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention to maintain high shrinkage, the shrinkage ratio is preferably 10% or more, preferably 15% or more. Polyester synthetic fibers with a maximum diameter of 6 μm or less improve the pleat stability of woven and knitted products, W&
The blending ratio of synthetic fibers with a maximum diameter of 6 μm or less, which has excellent characteristics in terms of W properties and dimensional stability, is preferably 30 to 70%. If the amount of wool exceeds this range, sufficient functionality cannot be imparted to the product, and if the amount of synthetic fibers is too large, sufficient shrinkability will not be imparted, resulting in a flannel-like feel and appearance.

The synthetic fiber blended woolen knitted fabric obtained by the present invention exhibits a good flannel-like feel and appearance of 100% wool. Conventional 100% wool flannel fabrics have poor retention of pleats in pants, looseness at the knees, and poor durability.
It has been said that it lacks W-ness and is inferior in functionality as pants. However, in the flannel-like woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, 30
It has been found that by blending ~70% of polyester synthetic fibers with a diameter of 6μ or less, these functional properties can be significantly improved, and in particular, pleatability is 80% or more.

In other words, the flannel-like woven and knitted fabric of the present invention has high pleat and dimensional stability, can be washed at home, and can be worn with easy care. Moreover, the texture and appearance are no different from 100% wool flanno.

Examples and comparative examples will be described below.

Example 1 Product type: Flano style fabric raw material Cotton: Polyester 0.1d (maximum diameter 1.5) x 89mm Wool 64'S Blend ratio: 50% polyester, 50% wool Thread count: Warp, weft 2/52S Number of twists: Vertical , Weft yarn Z17.5/S11.5 (T/in) Structure: 2/1/Twill density: Vertical 70 pieces/in, Weft 65 pieces/in Thickening agent: 0.1% soap aqueous solution Temperature: 40℃ After scouring the polyester 50/wool fabric obtained from the above design, we investigated the shrinking properties of the wool in the shrinking process, and found that the shrinkage ratio in the vertical and horizontal directions was approximately 20% each, which achieved shrinking in a very short time. A woolen fabric with firmness, softness and good texture was obtained, and its pleat retention rate was as high as 87% in the vertical direction and 84% in the horizontal direction, and did not deteriorate rapidly even when exposed to humid conditions. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the warp and weft yarns decomposed from these woven fabrics were yarns with considerably high bulkiness.

The shrinkage rate and pleat retention rate were determined using the following formulas.

Folding rate (%) = l - l ¹ / l x 100 where l: Length before shrinking (cm) l ¹ : Length after shrinking (cm) Pleat retention rate is based on JIS-L-1079 chemistry Monsanto type of wrinkle prevention test of textile fabric test method: opening angle method was applied mutatis mutandis.

Pleat retention rate (%) = 180-a/180 x 100 where a is 180℃±2℃, after pleating for 15 seconds with an iron weighing 1.96Kg, the test piece was folded in half and left on the water surface for 24 hours. The opening angle when

Example 2 Product Type: Furano-like knitted fabric Cotton: Polyester 0.1d (maximum diameter 1.5μ) x 89
mm Wool 64′S Blend ratio: 50% polyester, 50% wool Yarn count: 2/52S Number of twists: Warp, weft Z17.5/S11.5 (T/in) Texture: 24G Tenjiku shrinking agent: 0.1 % Soap aqueous solution Temperature: 40°C As in Example 1, a shrinkage rate of about 30% was obtained in a very short time, and a knitted fabric with elasticity, softness and good texture was produced.

Comparative example product Species Flano style fabric raw material Cotton: Polyester 3D x 89mm Wool 64'S Blend ratio: 50% polyester, 50% wool Yarn count: Warp, weft 2/52S Number of twists: Warp, weft Z17.0/S10 .0 (T/in) Structure: 2/1/Twill Density: Vertical 70 pieces/in, Width 65 pieces/in After shrinking: 0.1% soap aqueous solution Temperature: 40°C These are blended with ordinary synthetic fibers. The shrinkage ratio of the fabric was 7%, which was extremely low and no fabric with good texture could be obtained.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figures 1 and 2 show cross-sectional views of disassembled yarns from the synthetic fiber blended woolen knitted fabric before and after fulling according to the present invention, and Figures 3 and 4 show the yarns disassembled from the woolen knitted fabric blended with conventional synthetic fibers. Cross-sectional views of the yarn before and after fullening are shown, respectively. FIG. 5 shows a shrinkage speed diagram of the synthetic fiber blended woolen knitted fabric of the present invention and the conventional woolen fabric blended with synthetic fibers. 1: Ultra-fine synthetic fiber, 2: Wool fiber, 3: Synthetic fiber.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A highly shrinkage flannelette-like woven and knitted fabric composed of a blended yarn of 30-70% ultra-fine polyester synthetic fibers with a maximum diameter of 6 μm or less and 70-30% wool fibers.