JPS61272085A - Stitching method and apparatus - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention provides a workpiece support plate having a convex curved surface having a needle slot and a workpiece fixing device, and a workpiece support plate that is attached to a sewing machine main body. A rotary drum including a support shaft rotatably supported while being inserted between the lower end of the arm and the bed section is used to sew any part of a curved or flat workpiece in a straight or curved shape. The present invention relates to a new sewing method and a sewing device.

[Prior art and its problems]

The sewing industry, especially the ready-to-wear manufacturing industry, is a typical labor-dependent industry, and the sewing process, which is the core of the industry, requires each worker to operate a sewing machine one by one to perform the specified sewing tasks, so productivity is low. No significant improvement can be expected. Additionally, the level of skill, agility, and working attitude of workers greatly affect product quality and manufacturing costs.

By the way, when sewing with a sewing machine, use a "presser" to sew the sewing area of a workpiece made of multiple layers of material.
This is done by pressing the needle upward and moving it forward intermittently from the bottom using "feed" (some models do not have feed), and when the feed stops, cross the needle and material to intertwine the upper and lower threads. Therefore, the feeding direction is essentially straight, and only the lower material tends to advance and misalignment tends to occur. Therefore, the worker grasps the front and back of the workpiece to prevent it from slipping, and
In addition, the user is guided by hand to sew the designated areas.

Based on this sewing principle, it is possible to overlap many pieces of material to form a curved surface and hold it on the bed with some of the materials skewed or stretched, as in the case of senior color cloth basting for suits and jackets. , and it is essentially impossible to keep this state and sew each material by sliding it along a predetermined curve on the double bed so that it does not shift.

Currently, this difficult work is covered by the skill, perseverance, and concentration of the workers, and since it is not possible to bast in a continuous manner, they are sewn in three parts (six on the back and on the left and right edges). Therefore, in addition to causing mental and physical pain to the worker, the finished product is unstable and it is difficult to remove the threads, which is far from ideal. Moreover, such failure causes irreparable damage to the product.

In this way, there are several areas that are difficult to sew, such as the collar basting, the shoulder basting, and the sleeves, which are difficult to sew, and this poses a major problem when sewing. Moreover, due to labor shortages, it is becoming increasingly difficult to secure skilled workers, and the demand for low-cost, high-quality products is increasing, and each factory is busy finding countermeasures.

From this point of view, the present inventor developed an attachment bed for shoulder basting and upper rail basting (patent application filed in 1983).
-57350). This is a bed with a small cylindrical or flat face plate equipped with a slot for a needle, and the part to be sewn, such as the sleeve or septum, is placed on this face plate and fixed with both hands.
The whole thing is rotated by hand or sewn while being driven in parallel. Although this eliminates misalignment between the materials due to relative movement between the object to be sewn and the bed, it is not possible to save labor because it requires manpower to support and move the object to be sewn. Further, it is troublesome to support the entire object to be sewn, and especially in the case of the gore part, it is not possible to sew neatly because it is fixed in a flat shape.

〔the purpose〕

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, such as basting the imaginary part of a jacket, which was previously considered to be difficult and required a high level of skill. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for automatically sewing according to a predetermined curve or straight line without causing any misalignment or distortion between materials with simple operations when sewing under pressure or tension. .

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method and device for automatically sewing an object to be sewn after it has been attached, and for automatically removing the object after sewing and sending it to the next process. .

〔composition〕

These objectives are to mount a rotary drum on the machine base, which includes a convexly curved workpiece support plate with a needle slot and a workpiece fixing device, and a support shaft that rotatably supports this support plate. This is achieved by combining the sewing machine with a sewing machine body, setting the sewing location of the material to be sewn to match the needle slot, and intermittent rotation of the rotary drum in conjunction with the vertical movement of the sewing machine's needle and presser foot.

For example, a pulse motor is used to drive the rotary drum. After sewing, the object to be sewn is removed from the rotary drum by suspending a gripping device that can move up and down and back and forth on a rail installed above the machine stand, and gripping the object with the gripper.

In addition, the shape and dimensions of the rotary drum, the type of sewing machine,
The shape and structure of the machine base vary depending on the type of material to be sewn and the location to be sewn, and various structures of the rotary drum can be considered depending on the driving method. Furthermore, the gripping device may have various structures. Hereinafter, the method and apparatus of the present invention will be explained in detail by taking a case of color cloth basting of a jacket as a specific example.

〔Example〕

1 and 2 show an example of a sewing device according to the present invention. This sewing device (1) attaches a sewing machine body (2) and a rotary drum (3) to a machine base (4), and
) A gripping device (6) is suspended from a rail (5) installed above the rail.

The rotary drum (3) is, for example, as shown in Fig. 3 (al, C
As shown in bl, a wide iron plate bent into a substantially cylindrical shape is blast-welded to the circumferential portion of the disc-shaped connecting portion (7) to form a workpiece support plate (8).
), the support shaft (9) is fixed so as to protrude from the center of the connecting part (7) to one side, and a linear needle slot ( 10). In addition, a plurality of needles (three needles each in the figure) are placed at the center of the object support plate (8) (near the center of the needle slot (10)) and at three locations on the left and right, which are some distance away from the center.
A fixing device (II) consisting of a finger-like presser metal fitting (lla) and an air cylinder (llb) for driving the finger-like presser metal fitting (lla) is fixedly installed, and a part of the surface of the workpiece support plate (8), especially the needle, is fixed. Sandpaper (12) is attached to the periphery and both ends of the slot (10) to prevent slipping. Further, two fin-shaped auxiliary support plates (I3) and (13) are provided upwardly protruding from the center position of the sewing material support plate (8) at a distance of a medium distance from the left and right sides, and 9) is provided with a pulley (I4) and a projection (I5) for detecting rotational position. still,
The diameter of the drum (3) depends on the size of the jacket, but it is approximately 50mm in diameter.
~70cm.

This rotary drum (3) has its workpiece support plate (
8) is inserted between the lower end of the arm (16) of the sewing machine body (2) and the bed part (I7) and rotates freely, so that the support shaft (9) is attached to the bed part (17). It is supported by inserting it into the bearing (18) provided below (Figures 2 and 3).

The sewing machine body (2) includes an arm (1G) and a bed part (1G).
7) is fixed to the upper part of the machine base (4) with the tip facing forward, and the rotation of the motor (19) causes the needle (20) and presser foot (2I) to move up and down and the hook to rotate. On the other hand, the rotary drum (3) is rotationally driven by a pulse motor (22), and at this time, the position is adjusted so that the needle slot (10) is always on the top surface of the hook part (23) at the tip of the bed. . In this example, a cylindrical sewing machine is used as the sewing machine.

In addition, (Figures 1, 2, and 3)
... is a microsinch for detecting the rotational position of the rotary drum (3), (25) and (2G) are upper and lower thread trimmers driven by air cylinders, respectively, (27) is a needle position detection device, (28) is a lever for operating the fixture (6), (29) is an operation panel, and (30) is a box that stores relays and the like. Needle position detection device (27
), for example, has a light source and a photodetector placed on both sides of an opaque disk with a small cutout in half of its outer circumference, and prevents the pulse motor (22) from being driven while the needle (20) is descending. It is.

On the other hand, the gripping device (6) has a structure as shown in FIG. 1, for example. This gripping device (6) fixes an air cylinder (32) to a pedestal (31) that slides on a rail (5), and a vertical air cylinder (34) is attached to the tip of a piston (33) that moves back and forth. Attach the two gripping arms (3G) to the lower end of the piston (35) that moves up and down.
- (36) is pivoted, and two gripping tools (37) are provided at the lower end of each gripping arm (3G).

This threshold arm (36) is opened and closed by an air cylinder (38), and the gripping tool (37) is also opened and closed by an air cylinder (39).
Open and close with . The pedestal (31) is driven by, for example, a rail (5).
) and the pinion (41) on the motor shaft. In the figure, reference numeral (42) is a microswitch that determines the movement range of the pedestal (31), and (43) is a microswitch that determines the movement range of the pedestal (31). It is a magnetic sensor that determines the range of vertical movement. Note that electrical and air wiring is omitted in each figure.

Next, a procedure for performing "upper column color cloth basting" using this sewing device will be explained. First, in the previous process, as shown in Fig. 4+8), basting thread (40) is applied to the half-finished product with the front and back bodies sewn together (FM basting stitches), and then the upper F
The material to be sewn (4G) with both ends of M (45) ground sewn is ironed on the ironing board (47) as shown in Fig. 4 ('b) to form the bottom column (label) (4B) and the neck. The code (4B) in the figure is the upper outer material, (5 is the base collar core, and (51) is the color cloth.)

Next, this article to be sewn (46) is placed on a drum (46) as shown in FIG.
3) is fixed on the sewing target support plate (8). First, the back center line (52) is aligned with the center of the article support plate (8), and the entire body, especially the upper column and shoulder portion, is adjusted on the article support plate (8). At this time, the left and right lapel crease lines (53)
・Make sure that (53) and the collar-waist line (5) are in a straight line, and stretch the collar core (50) slightly to fix it.

And the sewing point is 1-2 cIll below the collar waist line (54)
Position it so that this part is above the needle slot (10). This positioning is performed using, for example, a linear spotlight (55). Once the position is determined, press the lever (28) to operate the air cylinders (llb) of each fixture (11) in sequence,
) to fix it. In addition, the object to be sewn (46) with both sleeves has an opening (5
6)・(56) are fin-shaped auxiliary support plates (work 3)・(13)
The object to be sewn (4G) is inserted into the
) from slipping off, and also facilitates initial positioning. The sandpaper (12) attached to the surface of the sewing object support plate (8) also has a non-slip effect.

If you press the activation switch (57) in this state, the drum (3
) is the set position (standby position) in FIG. 6 (al), then rotates in the opposite direction and temporarily stops at the position bl (FIG. 6 only shows the drum (3)). This stop is performed when a microswitch (24) fixed to the machine base (4) detects a protrusion (15) provided on the spindle (9).From this position, the drum rotates intermittently in steps in the forward direction. (3
), the presser foot (21) and needle (20) of the sewing machine descend to cross the upper thread and bobbin thread,
46), rotate it by one pinch while it is away from it. This rotational movement corresponds to the conventional back-and-forth movement of feed, and the sewing pitch is determined by the rotation angle of one rotation and the radius of the drum (3).

In the case of discipline as in this example, the pinch may be large.

This operation is continued until the drum (3) reaches the position shown in (C) in the figure and once stops. Next, the drum (3) is continuously driven in the opposite direction and returned to the position shown in FIG.

After thread trimming or drum (3)
The gripping device (6) starts operating from around the position . The gripping device (6), which was initially in the standby position (position (A)) in Fig. 7, is moved above the drum (3) by the rotation of the motor, which causes the pedestal (31) to slide on the rail (5). (b) position]. At the same time, the air cylinder (34) is activated and the gripping arms (36) (36) move downward,
The air cylinder operates and grabs the arm (3G) (36
) expands. Next, the sleeve with the gripping tools (37) and (37) supported by the auxiliary support plates (13) and (I3) is attached to the opening (5).
6) Holding (56) [state (c)]. Then, as the piston (33) moves forward, the piston (35)
rises, removes the object to be sewn (4) from the drum (3), and moves in the opposite direction until it reaches position (d).The object to be sewn (4G) protrudes from the machine base (4). Bar (61)
The middle part is caught. The gripping device (6) further moves backwards, during which time the gripping arms (36) and (36) are narrowed and the gripping tools (37) and (37) are loosened to release the article to be sewn (46), and then returned to its original position ( Return to b). In this way, the objects to be sewn (46) are piled up one after another on the bar (61),
The workers in the next process collect them all.

In this way, the basting of the upper collar cloth and its removal from the drum (3) are completed, and as shown in FIG. 8, a garment neatly sewn along the collar waist line with the basting thread (58) is obtained. Note that the object to be sewn (4G) by this gripping device (6)
) is being removed, the operator sets the next item to be sewn (4G) on the drum (3), and the sewing work continues in the same manner.

By the way, the outer and inner dimensions of the upper collar are different when viewed three-dimensionally, so that when it is unfolded, the label frieze line (53) and the collar waist line (54) become a -straight line as shown in Figure 8. Ideally, it should be finished in

In addition, in terms of the functionality of the jacket, the most important part is the neck, which is finished exactly as per the pattern at the center of the back and the left and right ends of the upper collar, and is stable, which is the most important factor in increasing product value. However, in conventional partial basting using flat feeding, the label frieze line (53) and collar waist line (54) are
Not only can it be finished in a straight line, but it can also be finished with three different materials (4S).
It was also difficult to make 50) and 51 along one sheet.

In contrast, in the present invention, a cylindrical article support plate (8)
By attaching the material to be sewn (46) to the collar-waist line (54), which originally forms a three-dimensional curve, the collar-waist line (54) can be easily made straight. By sewing in a tensioned state, ideal basting stitches can be easily performed without any skill or skill.Therefore, the seam allowance at the collar seam is accurate, and it is easy to sew with colored cloth or plain collar interlining. By ensuring the amount of clearance and being able to accurately perform the scoop stitches using the Lewis scoop sewing machine in the next process, even unskilled workers can clearly see the center of the back, and there are no creases in the neck area or geisha collars, and the upper It is possible to easily manufacture a jacket with a beautiful three-dimensional collar.It also makes it easy to process the basting thread.Moreover, it is automatically sewn after it is set on the drum (3), so there is no need to worry about sewing during that time. The operator can then prepare the next object to be sewn (46) (FIG. 4), resulting in great labor savings.

[Modified example]

Although the present invention has been described above by taking as an example the case of basting the upper collar collar, basting the collar can be done in the same manner. In this case as well, since the sewn portion has a curved surface, a high degree of skill was similarly required. That is, conventionally, this basting stitching was performed by guiding the basting stitches by hand at three points on the center and left and right sides, but it was extremely difficult to sew the curved surface in a curved shape while crisscrossing the lining. Therefore, there have been various problems such as wrinkles around the shoulders and difficulty in removing the threads, but the present invention completely eliminates these problems.

Also, a rotary drum (3) as shown in Figure 9 (al)
can be used to bast the folded hem of a suit. In this case, since the length to be sewn is longer than that in the previous example, the diameter of the drum (3) is made somewhat larger, four fixing devices (11) are provided, and the material support plate (8) is A tapered cylindrical auxiliary support plate (59
) is different from the previous example. Further, the holding metal fitting (lla) of the fixture has a short bar-shaped tip at a portion in order to hold down a wide area. In addition, the symbol (6
This is a stopper for positioning the object to be sewn.

In addition, if this process and the collar basting process are placed adjacent to each other, and the finished product of one process is applied to the other process,
- Two processes can be managed and worked by humans.

The above method involves sewing three-dimensionally curved parts such as the upper and lower ends of the jacket in a curved shape, but when these are unfolded on a cylindrical object support plate, the sewing parts can be made into a straight line. It is possible. Although the present invention has been made with this point in mind, it can of course be used for other planar objects as well.

However, if the sewing area cannot be made straight on the support plate for the object to be sewn, including curved or flat objects, the sewing cannot be performed simply by rotating the drum (3). Figure 9 (bl is a rotary drum corresponding to such a case)
3), in which a desired curved needle slot (l) is provided on the support plate (8) for the workpiece.This rotary drum (3) rotates simultaneously with the rotation of the spindle (9). It is necessary to move back and forth or swing the head.

In addition, the rotary drum (3) does not necessarily have a connection part (7).
- The support plate (8) and the support shaft (9) do not have to be integrated. In short, it is sufficient that the object support plate (8) is rotationally driven and supported by the support shaft (9).The object support plate (8) can be driven by other than the rotation of the support shaft (9). An internal gear may be provided on the support plate for the object to be sewn, and this may be directly rotated by the gear.

Note that the object support plate (8) is not limited to a cylindrical shape, but may be an ellipse, a part thereof, or other curved shape, as shown in FIG. 9(C), for example. The one shown is suitable for supporting long items such as slacks without shifting or deforming. However, in this case, the rotating workpiece support plate (8) should always be at approximately the same position above the bed, so that the support shaft (9)
needs to move up and down.

In addition, even if the rotation of the support shaft (9) is constant, the workpiece support plate (8)
) changes from moment to moment, so in order to keep the stitching pitch constant, the rotational speed of the spindle (9) should be changed, or the spindle (9) should be driven directly by an internal gear and a gear. In addition, the connection part (7
) uses four rod-shaped objects.

On the other hand, as for the sewing machine to be combined with this rotary drum (3), in addition to the cylindrical sewing machine shown as an example, it is preferable to use a column-type sewing machine, a feed-out cuff, or a small sewing machine with a small bed portion.

Moreover, it goes without saying that the present invention can be used for ground stitching by reducing the pitch. Furthermore, the gripping device (6) is not limited to the one shown in the drawings, and an oil cylinder, motor, solenoid, etc. may be used in addition to an air cylinder as a driving source.
A hook or the like may be used instead of the gripper (37). Further, the sewn object may be sent to the next process by a conveyor or the like.

〔effect〕

As described in detail above, the method of the present invention uses a new sewing aid called a rotary drum, places an object to be sewn, such as a work-in-progress jacket, on the object supporting plate of the rotary drum, and
Align the overlapped material by skewing or pulling a part of it, align the sewing area with the needle slot on the support plate, fix it in that position, and sew while rotating the support plate intermittently. It is something you will wear.

Therefore, unlike the conventional sewing machine, there is no relative movement between the sewing material and the bed, and the materials can be twisted and stretched as desired, and no misalignment or distortion occurs between the materials.

Furthermore, even if the object to be sewn is three-dimensionally curved, such as when sewing a jacket, it can be unfolded in a natural state on the support plate, and it can be sewn extremely simply and easily along any curved line or straight line. For this reason, the ring and upper part of the ring, which used to be considered to require an extremely high level of skill and attention.

Even unskilled workers can accurately perform tasks such as basting the shoulders and attaching sleeves, resulting in high-quality products. Of course, the object to be sewn is not limited to a curved object, but may be a flat object, and it is also possible to perform base stitching in addition to basting.

Moreover, the sewing work can be done automatically, and after sewing, the object to be sewn is removed from the drum by a gripping device and sent to the next process, so the operator only needs to set the object to be sewn on the drum, and advanced skills are not required. becomes. During this time, workers can be engaged in preparation work and other tasks, resulting in significant labor savings, which, together with improvements in processing efficiency of basting threads, post-process work efficiency, and lower defective rates, result in significant cost reductions.

On the other hand, the device of the present invention embodies the above-mentioned method, and since it incorporates a rotary drum and a gripping device into a sewing machine conventionally used for basting and other purposes, it is extremely structurally different from the automatic machines that are usually considered. It has the characteristics of being simple, compact, and inexpensive. Moreover, because the work is done while standing, the overall space is saved, which has the great effect of producing high-quality, low-cost sewn products.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figures 1 and 2 show an example of the sewing device of the present invention, Figure 1 is an overall perspective view, Figure 2 is a side view of the main parts, and Figure 3 is an example of the rotary drum used in the present invention, showing a color cloth. The items for basting are shown. al is a front perspective view, (b) is a rear perspective view, Figure 4 (al), (bl is a perspective view showing the preparation state of the sewing material, and Figure 5 is a rotary drum. Perspective view of the state in which the object to be sewn is attached, Fig. 6fal, (b), (
C) is a front view showing the state of the rotary drum during sewing;
Figure 7 is a front view of the entire gripping device showing its moving state;
The figure is a developed view of the object to be sewn after color cloth basting. FIG. 9 shows other examples of different rotary drums used in the present invention, in which (al) is a perspective view, (fb) is a top view, and (C) is a front view of the main parts. 1... Sewing device 2... Sewing machine body 3... Rotary drum 4... Machine base 6... Gripping device 8... ... Sewn object support plate 9 ... Support shaft IO ... Needle slot 11 ... Fixture 16 ... Arm 17 ... ... Bed section 31 ... Frame 36 ... Grasping arm 37 ... Grasping tool 46 ... Sewing object 51 ... Color cloth 58・・・・・・Basting thread 5th round 6th round (b) (C) (b) (C) Procedure Nefu formal writing (method) % formula % 1. Indication of the incident 1985 Patent Application No. 112666 2. Name of the invention Sewing method and device 3. Relationship with the person making the amendment Patent applicant address 1664 B, Sakata, Hiyo-cho, Hiyo-gun, Shimane Prefecture Name: San-A Apparel Cooperative Representative Tane Tomioka Toku 4, agent address 2-3-10-6 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka, ? ! Correct target drawing 7, engraving of the content drawing of the amendment 8, list of attached documents

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. An object to be sewn is fixed to the upper surface of a support plate for an object to be sewn which is bent into a convexly curved shape so that the sewing part thereof is located above the needle slot of the support plate, Next, the support plate is intermittently rotated by a predetermined angle around a support shaft placed below the bed so that the needle slot is along the upper surface of the hook portion of the bed, and when the support plate is stopped, the needle is inserted into the sewing machine. A sewing method characterized by sewing by rotating the support plate when the needle crosses the kimono and rises. 2. After fixing the object to be sewn with the central part of the support plate for the object to be sewn being on the top surface of the bed section, and then rotating the support plate in the opposite direction until one end of the needle slot is on the top surface of the hook section. The sewing method according to claim 1, wherein sewing is performed while rotating intermittently in the forward direction, and then the thread is cut by rotating in the reverse direction to the center. 3.Shirr the sewing part of the workpiece onto the needle slot provided linearly in the rotational direction of the workpiece support plate, and position it in a straight line by stretching or other operations. 2. The sewing method according to claim 1, wherein sewing is carried out in a straight line or a curved shape by rotating the sewing object support plate. 4. shirring the part to be sewn onto the needle slot provided in a curved line in the rotating direction of the workpiece support plate, and positioning it along the curve while stretching and other operations; The sewing method according to claim 1, wherein sewing is performed in a straight line or a curved shape by rotating the workpiece support plate and moving it back and forth or swinging. 5. The sewing according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the positioning of the sewing area is carried out by bringing the end of the object to be sewn into contact with a stopper provided on the outside of the needle slot. Method. 6. The sewing method according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the positioning of the sewing location is performed by irradiating a positioning slit light onto a predetermined location of the object to be sewn from above. 7. Manually set the object to be sewn on the upper surface of the support plate bent into a convex curve so that the sewing part is located above the needle slot of the support plate, and then fix it with a fixing tool. The process of
A step of sewing by rotating the support plate intermittently at a predetermined angle around a support shaft disposed below the bed so that the needle slot is along the upper surface of the hook portion of the bed, and cutting the thread after sewing. and, following the releasing operation of the fixing tool, a removing step of removing the object to be sewn from the object support plate and supplying it to the next device. 8. The sewing method according to claim 7, wherein the removal is performed by holding and lifting a part of the object to be sewn with a gripping tool of a gripping device. 9. Place the rotary drum, which includes a convexly curved workpiece support plate provided with a needle slot and a spindle, on the machine stand so that the needle slot moves along the upper surface of the hook part of the bed part. A sewing device characterized in that a gripping device that moves up and down and back and forth is suspended on a rail that is built into the entire surface of the sewing machine body to which it is attached, and that moves up and down and back and forth.