JPS61210017A - Solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:A solid cosmetic having improved utility, shelf stability, impact resis tance, etc., blended with plastic fats and oils comprising mixed acid group triglyceride containing a specific amount of >=20C saturated straight-chain fatty acid and a specified amount of 16-22C unsaturated fatty acid as constitu ent fatty acids. CONSTITUTION:Affords pressed powder type solid cosmetic having improved spread and luster, good flexibility, small change in hardness with temperature change, no quality deterioration by sweating and blooming, improved oiliness and impact resistance, producing no glitter, containing 30-70wt%, especially 40-65wt% >=20C, especially 20-26C saturated straight-chain fatty acid such as arachic acid, behenic acid, etc., and 20-60wt%, especially 25-50wt% 16-22C unsaturated fatty acid such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc., blend ed with 0.1-80wt%, especially 0.2-50wt% based on solid cosmetic of plastic fats and oils comprising mainly triglyceride of mixed acid group of these fatty acid.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to solid cosmetics, and more specifically, saturated linear fatty acids having 20 or more carbon atoms and saturated linear fatty acids having 16 to 2 carbon atoms as constituent fatty acids.
The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic containing a plastic fat and oil containing 2 unsaturated fatty acids and mainly consisting of a mixed acid group triglyceride of a saturated fatty acid having 20 or more carbon atoms and an unsaturated fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[Conventional technology and problems]

Typical solid cosmetics include lipsticks, lip balms, foundation sticks, stick cosmetics such as ticks, pencil-type cosmetics such as eye brow pencils and eyeliner pencils, foundations, eye shadows, blushers, etc. There are pressed powders and oil-based cake-like cosmetics.

Among these, oil-based cosmetics have traditionally been
Solid fats such as candelilla wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated animal and vegetable fats, beeswax, and liquid or semi-liquid products such as castor oil, olive oil, joba oil, squalane, various synthetic ester oils, silicone oil, liquid rough-in, and petrolatum. Because it is a mixture of oil and powder dispersed in it, it is difficult to maintain a uniform mixture, and imbalances in compatibility may occur due to the elapse of storage time or changes in the temperature, humidity, etc. of the storage environment. There were disadvantages such as deterioration in appearance quality due to sweating and dusting (pluming), decrease in breakage strength due to large changes in hardness (yield value), and deterioration in the feel of use. In addition, pressed powder type cosmetics have a high proportion of powder, and the feel when using it is 1Il.
l! The above-mentioned oil component is used for the purpose of bonding or shape retention during molding.

In this case, if the bonding force between the powder particles is insufficient, it may result in broken holes, poor impact resistance, or cracks during use. On the other hand, if the bonding force between powder particles is too strong, it will not stick well to puffs or brushes, making it difficult to apply and causing a deterioration in appearance due to oily shine. These phenomena are
It is difficult to solve this problem simply by adjusting molding conditions such as press pressure.

[Means for solving problems]

In view of these circumstances, the present inventor conducted intensive research to resolve the above-mentioned drawbacks, and as a result, found that saturated linear fatty acids having 20 or more carbon atoms and carbon a16-22
An excellent solid cosmetic that does not have the above-mentioned drawbacks can be obtained by blending a plastic fat or oil that contains 20 or more unsaturated fatty acids and is mainly composed of mixed acid group triglycerides of saturated fatty acids with 20 or more carbon atoms and unsaturated fatty acids with 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The present invention was completed based on the discovery that the following can be obtained.

That is, in the present invention, 30 to 70% by weight of saturated linear fatty acids having 20 or more carbon atoms are used as constituent fatty acids, preferably 40 to 6% by weight.
5% by weight, 20 to 6 unsaturated fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
0% by weight, preferably 25 to 50% by weight, and is characterized by containing a plastic fat or oil mainly composed of mixed acid group triglycerides of saturated fatty acids having 20 or more carbon atoms and unsaturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. An oil-based solid cosmetic that spreads easily, has good gloss, is highly flexible, and has little change in hardness due to temperature changes, and does not deteriorate in quality due to sweating or pluming. It also has excellent impact resistance and a good feel when used. To provide a pressed powder type solid cosmetic that does not cause shine.

The plastic fats and oils contained in the solid cosmetic of the present invention mainly have two saturated linear acyl groups in the molecule.
Mainly composed of unsaturated mixed acid group triglycerides. At least one of the saturated linear acyl groups of this mixed acid group triglyceride has 20 or more carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 26 carbon atoms, and the other saturated linear acyl groups have 1 carbon number.
6 or more, preferably <Fi16-26, and the unsaturated acyl group has 16-22 carbon atoms. Among these, one in which both of the two saturated linear acyl groups have 20 to 26 carbon atoms is particularly preferred. Components of the remaining plastic fat and oil: Saturated linear fatty acids with expanded carbon numbers of 8 or more and/or charcoal fIg#! ! 8
It is preferable that the triglyceride has the above-mentioned unsaturated fatty acids as its constituent fatty acids, and that the fatty acids have 16 to 24 carbon atoms. At this time, if the number of carbon atoms in the constituent fatty acids is less than 8, it not only smells bad, but also may cause skin irritation if hydrolysis occurs. In addition, in the present invention, when the mixed acid group triglyceride is composed of a saturated fatty acid having 20 or more carbon atoms and an unsaturated fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms as the main component, it means that it is the largest component in the triglyceride, and usually in plastic fats and oils, This means that the above-mentioned disaturated-unsaturated mixed acid group triglyceride is contained in a purity of 55% or more, preferably 45% or more.

Examples of unsaturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms constituting the plastic mixed acid group triglyceride of the present invention include isooleic acid, linoleic acid, and lylunic acid, and the bonding position thereof may be either α-position or β-position, but a mixture thereof may be used. is preferred. Furthermore, there are no restrictions on the position or number of unsaturated bonds in the unsaturated fatty acid, but from the viewpoint of oxidative stability, the number of unsaturated bonds is preferably 1 to 2. Saturated straight chain fatty acids having 20 or more carbon atoms include arachidic acid, behenic acid, etc., but those having 20 to 26 carbon atoms are particularly preferred; otherwise, flexibility will be slightly lacking. Also, when the number of carbon atoms is 18 or less, the crystallinity is clearly high.
Because it becomes brittle, it does not exhibit the above-mentioned performance when blended into solid cosmetics.

The method for producing plastic fats and oils in the present invention is not particularly limited, but includes a saturated linear fatty acid having 8 or more carbon atoms containing a predetermined amount or more of a saturated linear fatty acid having 20 or more carbon atoms and a predetermined amount or more of a saturated linear fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. 8 carbons containing unsaturated fatty acids
It can be produced by transesterification of triglycerides in which the above-mentioned unsaturated fatty acids are constituent fatty acids, or by esterification of these fatty acids with glycerin. In order to increase the purity of the disaturated-unsaturated mixed acid group triglyceride in the present invention, it is preferable to remove high melting point parts and low melting point parts from the obtained natriglyceride mixture by solvent fractionation or the like.

The content of the above-mentioned plastic oil and fat in the solid cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic, but it can be contained in the range of 0.1 to 801ii%, and is usually 0.2 to 5C weight. The content is preferably within a range of %. Further, if necessary, known cosmetic ingredients such as other oily ingredients, surfactants, medicinal ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, powders, perfumes, etc. can be added.

Examples of oil components include liquid paraffin, vaseline, and solid
Hydrocarbons such as paraffin, ceretac, microcrystalline wax, and squalane; waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, and candelilla wax; natural animal and vegetable oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, joba oil, lanolin, and cacao butter; silicone oil; Examples include fatty acids, higher alcohols, and various synthetic ester oils.

〔Example〕

Next, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to synthesis examples and examples, but the present invention is not limited to these synthesis examples and examples. Note that % and parts in the examples are based on weight.

Synthesis Example: After dissolving 50% by weight of olive oil and 50% by weight of behenic acid in hexane of 5 times the volume (based on the weight) of the fatty acid, the α-position selective ester was adsorbed on Celite at 10% by weight based on the fat and oil. Lipase with exchangeability (Tanabe Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
Add 520 lipase units to Ig of oil and fat, and incubate at 45C for 72 hours.
A position-selective transesterification reaction was performed.

After the reaction, the reaction solution was subjected to FJ, and then all hexene was distilled off from the F solution. Next, the molecularly distilled fatty acid was removed from the remaining portion. This α-position selective transesterified oil from which fatty acids had been removed was dissolved in 1no5ν acetone, and the mixture was heated at 50C to 1L under stirring.
[Crystals precipitated by cooling to 1C were collected, and after the solvent was distilled off, they were deodorized using a conventional trap to obtain plastic triglyceride a.

Synthesis example-2 Behenic acid triglyceride 50%, Su7 Rawa oil 50%
% by weight of the mixed oil was reacted at 80C for 30 minutes using 0.1% by weight of sodium methylate based on the fat and oil as a catalyst to obtain transesterified oil. This transesterified oil is
This was dissolved in 9411Lt of n-hexane and stirred at 40C.
The high melting point portion (yield: +4% based on the transesterified oil) consisting mainly of 93-saturated triglyceride was separated by cooling to 280℃ and separated. After the solvent was distilled off from the F solution in a conventional manner, the remaining portion was evaporated into 1. Dissolve 51 grams of g in acetone and stir while stirring.
The target section that precipitated after cooling from 0c to IOC was collected.

After distilling off the solvent, this fraction was deodorized by a conventional method to obtain plastic triglyceride b.

Synthesis Example-3 High boiling point classification of extremely hardened fish oil fatty acids "lr-9 triglyceride 50 wt% and safflower oil 50 wt% as raw materials
A wt% mixed oil was treated at 80C for 50 minutes using 0.1% sodium methylate as a catalyst based on the fat to obtain transesterified oil. This transesterified oil +JIi, 95
a! Dissolved in acetone at 60C and then stirred at 25C.
The precipitated high melting point portion (yield: 15% based on the transesterified oil) mainly composed of missaturated triglycerides was removed. This p solution was cooled to 3 to 5C with stirring, and the precipitated target section (medium melting point section) was collected.

After removing the solvent, this fraction was deodorized by a conventional method to obtain 0 plastic triglycerides.

Synthesis Example-4 After transesterifying a mixed oil of 5011% by weight of extremely hardened high-quality rapeseed oil and 50% by weight of safflower oil in the same manner as in Synthesis Example-2, the transesterified oil was transesterified into 1 Nafi
5117 in A7T, and cooled to 35C with stirring, the precipitated high melting point part (yield: 26% based on interesterified oil) mainly composed of trisaturated triglycerides was separated by F. This F solution was cooled to IOr with stirring, the precipitated crystals were collected, the solvent was distilled off, and the mixture was deodorized by a conventional method to obtain plastic triglyceride d.

Synthesis Example 5 A mixed oil of 50% by weight of behenic acid triglyceride and 50% by weight of olive oil was transesterified in the same manner as in Synthesis Example 2, and the desired Machida triglyceride was obtained by solvent fractionation.

Table 1 shows the analytical values Yr of the plastic triglycerides a to 5 obtained in Synthesis Example 5, and Table 2 shows the triglyceride compositions determined by gas chromatography.

Table 2 (note) +c; psυ c; s u, c5
6; ASU.

52% 54 2c58; AA
U, BS [J a ; ABU%062:B10
．． C64; B2A is the main component, however pFi palmitic acid, S is stearic acid, UFiC18 is an unsaturated acid, human is arachidic acid, and B is behenic acid.

Example + (Lip balm) Each component shown in Table 3 was heated and mixed uniformly to 8Qc, poured into a mold, cooled and solidified to produce a lip balm. These lip balms A to D and commercially available lip balm E (32% liquid polyisobutylene, 64% castor oil/wax, other pigments, etc.) were examined for breakage strength at each storage temperature using the following measuring method. The results are shown in FIG. In addition, a sensory evaluation was conducted on the feeling of use by 20 general women. The results are shown in Table 4.

Table 3 <Breakage strength measurement method> Inventive product A described in Table 3 molded into a cylindrical shape with a diameter of 11 mm
, B and Comparative Products C, D Commercially available lip balm E, which is also a comparative product, was stored at each temperature, and the breaking strength was measured using a rheometer (NFIM-20105, manufactured by Fudo Kogyo). Measurements should be made at the joll II site, beyond the fixed part.
f! at a speed of H/sec. A stress in the normal direction was applied, and the maximum stress until the stick broke was recorded as the breaking strength.

As is clear from FIG. 1, the product of the present invention shows less variation in breakage strength due to temperature changes than the comparative product.

Table 4 Sensory evaluation results (Note) Evaluation criteria ◎: Women with a height of 16 Å or more are preferred. O: 12-15 people Δ: 8 to 11 people ×: Those who said it was good had a value of 7 Å or less.

Example 2 (Lipstick) A lipstick having the composition shown in Table 5 was manufactured, and a specialized panel
Performance evaluation was conducted by 10 people.

The results are shown in Table 6.

Table 5 Table 6 (Note) Evaluation criteria ◎: Rated by 8 or more people out of 8 out of 10 people.

○: I 6 ゛ β Δ: ＃4” ' j
×: l 5 people or less From these results, the product of the present invention has improved stick gloss, spreadability,
It can be seen that it has excellent smoothness and gloss during use.

Example 5 The sweating phenomenon of samples of the present invention products A, a, a%H1 comparison products C, D, and J shown in Table 7 from among the lip balms and lipsticks shown in Tables 5 and 5. And presence or absence of powdering phenomenon (blue bang) f:lI! Beta. The sweating phenomenon was determined by visually observing the sweating state after leaving the specimen at 5C for 4 hours and then at 35C6ORH for 4 hours.Blooming was observed at 35C for 8 hours, then at 5C for 24 hours.
The presence or absence of a leak was determined by visually observing the situation after a certain period of time. The results are shown in Table 7.

Table 7 (Note) Evaluation criteria - 2 Not introduced at all +: Slightly observed + 10: Approved @ Toge 12 Kanasi Many observed The product of the present invention does not exhibit sweating or powdering phenomena. It can be seen that the quality is extremely stable.

Example 4 (Eyebrow Pencil) Eyebrow pencils having the composition shown in Table 8 were manufactured by the following manufacturing method, and their usability was evaluated by 10 expert panelists. All results are shown in Table 9.

Table 8 (Method #) Heat each component to 80C and repeat kneading with a roll mill. This is cooled to room temperature and molded by extruding the core from a nozzle using a squeeze injection machine.

The core is attached to a piece of wood with a core-shaped groove, and then glued, conjugated, cut, and formed into a pencil shape to produce a product.

The numbers in Table 9 (Note) indicate the number of people who answered that the two were good when compared.

In the case of pencil-shaped cosmetics, the hardness and smoothness of the core can be adjusted by adjusting the ratio of wax and oil components.

However, in general, when a wax with a low melting point is used, a core that is soft and not rough to the touch can be obtained, but its viscosity tends to make it difficult to maintain smoothness. This tendency can be alleviated somewhat by using saturated straight chain fatty acid triglycerides that have a sharp melting point near body temperature, but the effect is not sufficient.

Table 9 shows that by blending plastic mixed acid group triglycerides, pencil-shaped cosmetics with a soft feel and excellent smoothness can be obtained.

Example 5 (Solid Powder Eye Shadow) Solid powder eye shadows having the compositions shown in Table 10 were prepared by the following manufacturing method and evaluated for physical properties and feeling of use. The results are summarized in Table 11.

Table 1Q (Manufacturing method) The powder part is stirred and mixed in a blender, and the heated and uniformly dissolved oil phase part is sprayed thereon, and further stirred. After that, it is crushed and compression molded using a molding machine to obtain a solid powder eyeshadow.

Table 11 (Evaluation of impact resistance) 10 pieces of solid powder eyeshadow T-1 placed in an aluminum dish-shaped container were dropped from a height of 1 m onto a steel plate, and then checked for cracks, cracks, and chips. Observed.

○: No changes such as cracks, cracks, chips, etc. in any of the 10 items ◎: No more than 4 cracks or chips out of 10 items Δ: Cracks or chips were observed in 5 or more out of 10 items ×: 5 out of 10 items 3 or more cracked and shattered (evaluation of the degree of removal) Rub the surface with the cosmetic tip attached to the eye shadow.
The degree of removal was evaluated.

O: Good (uniform) removal Δ: 'There are some lumps. ×: Very difficult to remove, many lumps (appearance, sticking,
Evaluation of ease of blurring) Ten expert panelists evaluated the wear, appearance, sticking, and ease of blurring during use.

○ Δ: 4 to 6 people judged it to be good. ×: 3 people or less judged it to be good. The product of the present invention, which contains plastic triglycerides, has strong impact resistance, but also has good impact resistance. It also showed excellent performance with no shiny appearance.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing changes in breakage strength of various lip balms obtained in Example 1 at various storage temperatures.

Claims (1)

[Claims] Contains 30 to 70% by weight of saturated linear fatty acids with 20 or more carbon atoms and 20 to 60% by weight of unsaturated fatty acids with 16 to 22 carbon atoms as constituent fatty acids, and contains saturated fatty acids with 20 or more carbon atoms and 16 carbon atoms. A solid cosmetic characterized by containing a plastic fat or oil mainly composed of mixed acid triglycerides of 22 unsaturated fatty acids.