JPS61201042A - Production of polyester silky knitted cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material having silk-like bulge and texture in a rational manner and with excellent uniformity in quality.

[Conventional technology]

As a method for manufacturing polyester woven and knitted products that have a silk-like bulge and texture, the single fiber fineness of the component yarns is made as thin as 1 to 2 d, the cross section of the single fibers is made into a modified cross section to resemble silk, and the voids between fibers are increased. In order to make woven or knitted fabrics full and supple, methods such as using differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns or subjecting woven or knitted fabrics to alkali weight reduction processing are known. A method using a special type of differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is widely used to obtain polyester silky woven or knitted fabrics.

Methods for producing mixed fiber yarns with different shrinkage include a method in which different polymers are spun from the same spinning nozzle, and undrawn yarns made of single fibers of different polymers are drawn to form mixed fiber yarns with different heat shrinkage rates; , undrawn yarns with different combinations of orientation, crystallinity, fineness, cross-section, etc. that cause differences in heat shrinkage rates when drawn yarns are drawn under the same conditions with the same weight of a drawing machine to produce blends with different heat shrinkage rates. The method of making yarn is to use the same type of undrawn yarn in a drawing machine.
There are known methods such as a method of applying different shrinkage conditions to different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns during stretching and heat setting by applying weights, or a method of mixing drawn yarns having different heat shrinkage rates with gold thread, twisting yarn, air entanglement, etc. in the textile process. ing. When using the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn obtained by such a method as the warp of textiles and warp knitting, it is warped with glue to create a beam, knitted and woven, and the resulting gray fabric is relaxed in a wet process. It is a woven or knitted fabric with a bulge.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The conventional method of manufacturing silky woven and knitted fabrics using differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns has various problems.

For example, in the above-mentioned method for producing a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, different polymers are spun from the same spinning nozzle to create an undrawn yarn consisting of single fibers of different polymers, and this is stretched to create a mixed yarn with different heat shrinkage rates. This method requires equipment to polymerize different polymers separately and a composite spinning machine to spin them, which requires expensive equipment investment and because the production lot of the polymer is usually smaller than that of polyester polymer. However, there are problems such as high manufacturing costs, and there is a method in which undrawn yarns of different types are stretched under the same conditions with the same weight of a drawing machine to form a mixed fiber yarn with different heat shrinkage rates, or In the method of applying undrawn yarn to the same weight of a drawing machine and changing the conditions during drawing heat setting, it becomes a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage.
Since a multi-spindle drawing machine is used, a great deal of effort is required to make each spindle uniform, such as drawing each spindle, controlling variations in set temperature, and managing yarn paths.

In addition, in the method of mixing drawn yarns having different heat shrinkage rates with gold thread, twisting thread, or air entanglement in the textile process, a process for gold thread, twisting thread, or air entanglement is required, and the manufacturing cost is high. There are problems such as:

The present invention solves the problems of the prior art and provides a method for producing silky woven and knitted fabrics made of polyester differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns that is cheaper, more rational, and of more uniform quality.

[Means for solving problems]

In the present invention, packages wound with polyester undrawn yarn are mounted on a creel, yarns are pulled out from each package and arranged to form a sheet-like yarn group, the sheet-like yarn group is drawn, and then two or more adjacent yarns are The drawn yarns are made into a set, and one or more of the yarns is heat-treated so that the difference in water production shrinkage rate from other yarns is 3.0% or more, and the fibers are mixed to form a beam with different shrinkage. This is a method for producing a polyester silky woven or knitted material, which is characterized by winding up and using the beam as a warp for a woven or warp knitted material.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be specifically explained based on the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a process side view of an example of carrying out the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a plan view of FIG. 1. Set the required number of packages (11) wound with undrawn polyester yarn on the creel (2), pull out the yarn from each package, and place the yarn through the guides (31, (4),
(51) to form a sheet-like yarn group, and then stretch the sheet-like yarn group at a predetermined stretching ratio between a pair of rollers, a heated roller (6) and a non-heated roller (9), to form a drawn yarn. None, at this time, two or more adjacent drawn yarns are made into a set, and one or more of them (14) is heated by the heater (7).
), and without passing through the heater (7) using the same set of yarn guides (8), the yarns (13) that are not heat treated are merged again with non-heated rollers (9) to form a sheet-like yarn group. , combine each set as a unit or use an air entangling device (lO) between the non-heated roller (9) and the roller (11).
The fibers are intertwined and mixed. The drawing heat setting temperature of the yarn constituting this mixed yarn is selected so that the water production shrinkage rate difference ΔBWS is 3.0% or more.

If ΔBW8 is less than 3.0%, even if the woven or knitted fabric is relaxed in a wet process, the swell will be insufficient and the product quality as a silky woven or knitted fabric will be poor. Preferably, ΔBWS is 5% or more.

The thus obtained sheet-like yarn group consisting of differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns is wound up as a beam (12) to obtain a warp beam consisting of differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns. When this warp beam is used as the warp of a woven fabric, it may be intertwined with an air entangling device (10) if necessary following the non-heated roller (9), glued and dried, and then wound around a pre-beam (12). However, it may be glued and dried in a separate process and rolled up into a pre-beam.

From the required number of pre-beams obtained in this way, room beams are created using a beamer and used as warp threads for weaving.

Alternatively, the fabric may be intertwined with an air entangling device (10) and wound into a beam (12) without glue, and a room beam may be created from this and used as a warp for weaving without glue or twist. In particular, this method is rational because it can reduce manufacturing costs the most. On the other hand, when used for the warp threads of warp knitting, the beam (
12) The required number of knitting machines are set on a warp knitting machine and knitted. In this case, interlacing with the air entangling device (10) results in better yarn bundling and knitting properties.

Note that the obtained woven or knitted gray fabric is double-twisted in a wet process to develop fluffiness, and then subjected to alkali weight reduction processing and the like to produce a silkier effect.

The undrawn polyester yarns constituting the group of sheet-like yarns may be of the same type, or may be a combination of yarns with different finenesses, single fiber cross sections, polymers, degrees of orientation, etc. It is also possible to make a thick-and-synth yarn by stretching it at a magnification in the natural stretching range.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The present invention has the above-described structure, and since the undrawn polyester yarn is drawn and warped in a series, the manufacturing cost is naturally lower than that of the conventional method consisting of separate steps, as well as drawing and heat setting. Since a group of sheet-like yarns is passed through the same temperature range using one heating roller and one heater, there is a great effect that the quality among the yarns is uniform.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

〔Example〕

Polyester multifilament spinning speed 1700
An undrawn package consisting of a plyte triangular single fiber cross section spun at Wl/min was passed through a creel through the apparatus shown in FIG.

Heating roller (61 temperature: 90℃, heating roller (61)
) and non-heated row: 7-+9) with a stretching ratio of 2.75.
In a set of adjacent yarns (13) and (14) that are stretched as double, the yarn (13) is guided by the yarn guide (8) so that the heater (7) K does not come in contact with the yarn (14), and the yarn (14) is connected to the heater (7). The fibers were heat-treated at 185° C., intertwined at the unheated roller (9), entangled with an entanglement value of 125 using an air entangling device, and wound into a beam (12).

The fineness of the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn on the beam is 49.2 denier and consists of 36 filaments, and the two yarns (13) that make up this yarn are 49.2 denier. The water production shrinkage rate of (14) is 16.5 for the former.
%, the latter was 6.2%, and ΔBWS was 10.3%.

A loom beam is made by combining 12 of the obtained beams (12), and this loom beam is used as the warp, and 1600 polyester semi-dull 75 denier 36 filaments are used as the weft.
T/M strong twist, S-twisted yarn with anti-twist set and 2-twisted yarn
I got plain fabric by hitting the trap alternately.

The density of the fabric is 78 warp/3 7 sun, weft 122/
This greige is relaxed with a washer, grained, preset, and alkali weight loss (weight loss rate 13
．． 5%), dyed, and finished set.

The obtained woven fabric and warp of the present invention were obtained by preparing the warp by normal sizing using a normal polyester bright triangular cross-section 50 denier 36 filament drawn yarn and subjecting it to the same weaving standards and dyeing conditions as the product of the present invention. An engineer working on polyester silky fabrics evaluated the feel of the fabric, and as a result, it was confirmed that the product of the present invention had better fluffiness and had a sufficient silky effect.

The water production shrinkage rate used in the present invention is JISL107.
3B method, confounding value is described in USP 2985995 Coherency Factor
It was measured using the following measurement method.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a process side view of an example of carrying out the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a plan view of FIG. 1. 1...Package 2...Creel 3.4,5
... Guide 6 ... Heating roller 7 ... Heater 8 ... Thread path guide 9 ... Non-heating roller 10 ... Air entangling device 12 ... Beam
13,14... Thread Figure 1

Claims (1)

[Claims] Packages wound with polyester undrawn yarn are set on a creel, yarns are pulled out from each package and arranged to form a sheet-like yarn group, the sheet-like yarn group is drawn, and then two or more adjacent drawn yarns are assembled. Then, one or more of the yarns is heat treated so that the boiling water shrinkage rate difference with other yarns is 3.0% or more, mixed, and wound into a beam as a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. A method for producing a polyester silky woven or knitted material, characterized in that it is used as a warp thread for a woven or warp knitted product.