JPS6113015B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a cashmere-like composite yarn and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, the present invention relates to a cashmere-like composite yarn and a method for manufacturing the same, and more specifically, it exhibits excellent bulkiness by boiling water treatment, and has a cashmere-like touch and a uniform surface with an extremely soft and slimy surface feel. This invention relates to a cashmere-like composite yarn with a core-sheath structure that can be used to create fabrics that have the following properties. Conventionally, bulky yarns can be broadly classified into bulky spun yarns and filament textured yarns. In the case of the former bulky spun yarn, raw cotton of high shrinkage fibers and raw cotton of low shrinkage fibers with a dry heat shrinkage rate of 10 to 25% at a dry heat temperature of 180°C are mixed in approximately equal proportions (weight). By spinning with a twist coefficient of 50 to 100 and heat-treating the yarn or fabric, the high shrinkage fibers are shrunk and a bulky yarn is obtained. However, when the bulky spun yarn obtained in this way is subjected to shrinkage treatment, the high shrinkage fibers and low shrinkage fibers tend to separate, and the low shrinkage fibers protrude while forming loops on the outside of the yarn. This has the drawback that the yarn morphology deteriorates, and the final product, the fabric, has an asymmetrical appearance and a rough and hard surface touch. In order to reduce this rough and hard feeling, attempts have been made to use fibers with small single fiber fineness. However, when the single fiber fineness becomes extremely thin (for example, 0.9 denier or less), there are problems with the spinnability of the fibers, especially in terms of neps and yarn unevenness, and in order to improve the yarn quality, it is necessary to lower the rotation speed of the spinning machine. First, there was the problem of decreased productivity. On the other hand, bulky textured yarn obtained by texturing filament yarn has a uniform appearance, but compared to spun yarn, the fibers are less entangled with each other and the degree of fiber filling is lower, so it has less bulk when made into a fabric. There are some shortcomings. In this way, bulky yarn with a cashmere-like texture that combines the excellent bulkiness and texture of bulky spun yarn, as well as the excellent uniformity, high softness, and slimy feel of bulky processed yarn with textured filament yarn, is conventional. The current situation is that this technology has not yet been realized. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cashmere-like yarn that maximizes the highly soft and slimy feel of an ultra-fine multifilament yarn, particularly a multifilament yarn with a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less. be. Still another object of the present invention is to provide a novel processing method that converts the characteristics of the ultrafine multifilament into a cashmere-like touch without using spinning means. As a result of various studies aimed at achieving the above object, the inventors of the present invention found that the characteristics of the ultra-fine multifilament yarn, i.e., the high degree of softness and sliminess, do not exceed the range of conventional cashmere-like spun yarns in terms of the overall function of the yarn. However, when such a yarn has fluff and is combined with a compact yarn that has a potential swelling effect as a whole, the functional characteristics of both are synergistically exhibited to create the desired yarn. They discovered that this can be obtained and arrived at the present invention. Thus, according to the present invention, (1) the dry heat shrinkage rate at a dry heat temperature of 180°C is 10 to 25
The core component is a fuzzy fiber bundle containing 10 to 50% of high shrinkage fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.9%.
A composite yarn comprising a multifilament yarn of denier or less as a sheath component, characterized in that the sheath component accounts for 30 to 60% by weight of the composite yarn and envelops and covers the core component in a mixed and entangled state. Cashmere-like composite yarn and (2) dry heat shrinkage rate of 10 to 25 at a dry heat temperature of 180℃
A fuzzy fiber bundle containing 10 to 50% high shrinkage fiber, which is 30%, and a multifilament yarn, which has a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less and accounts for 30 to 60% by weight of the entire supplied yarn, are compared to the former. A cashmere-like composite characterized by supplying the multifilament yarn to a fluid agitation treatment area while overfeeding by ~70%, and enveloping the multifilament yarn around the fiber bundle in the fluid agitation treatment area to form a core-sheath structure. A method of manufacturing yarn is provided. Furthermore, in a typical example of the present invention, a fluff-like fiber bundle containing high shrinkage fibers and potentially having a swelling effect is used as a core component, and an ultra-fine filament yarn is wrapped around it.
The fiber filling degree of the yarn as a whole is maintained by the core component, and the roughness and hardness that the core component exhibits (especially after boiling water treatment) is eliminated by the ultra-fine filament yarn that is the sheath component, and its large surface area is utilized. It gives a highly slimy feel. As for the degree of entanglement between the entire composite yarn or between the core and sheath components, the excellent entanglement between the fluff and the ultra-fine filaments, as well as the high degree of entanglement between the ultra-fine filaments, is achieved through turbulence processing. It is. Such a composite yarn itself exhibits a cashmere-like feel and touch, but these characteristics become more pronounced when the yarn or fabric is subjected to relaxing heat treatment (for example, in boiling water). The high shrinkage fibers used in the present invention, which have a dry heat shrinkage rate of 10 to 25% at a dry heat temperature of 180°C, are the same as those conventionally used, such as polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic fibers, etc. Made of synthetic fibers. In this case, the dry heat shrinkage rate is 10%
If it is less than 25%, sufficient bulkiness cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 25%, the shrinkage rate is too high, which deteriorates the appearance of the composite yarn and impairs the feel of a woven or knitted fabric. A fiber bundle containing 10 to 50% (weight %) of such high shrinkage fibers is used as a core component. If the mixing ratio of high shrinkage fibers is less than 10%, the bulking effect will be small, and if it exceeds 50%, the appearance of the yarn will deteriorate and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric will be impaired. Therefore, the blending rate of high shrinkage fibers should be in the range of 10 to 50%, but fiber bundles containing high shrinkage fibers may be made of non-twisted yarns using means such as fusing or adhesion.
Although a false-twisted crimped yarn using a false-twisting means may be used, from the viewpoint of ease of handling, it is preferable to use the yarn in the form of a spun yarn having real twist. Of course, the fiber bundle may be composed of a differentially contracted mixed filament yarn as long as it has fluff or a protruding end, and in this case, it is necessary that the mixed fiber yarn has been given fluff in advance by a well-known raising means. be. On the other hand, in the present invention, a multifilament yarn, particularly a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, having a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less is used as the sheath component.
Suitable synthetic fiber multifilament yarns are those made of synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylic fibers, and it is particularly desirable to use polyester multifilament yarns that have excellent texture. The single fibers of these synthetic fiber multifilament yarns preferably have a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less, preferably 0.5 denier or less. If the single fiber fineness exceeds 0.9 denier, a cashmere-like texture with a soft and slimy surface cannot be obtained. To obtain such extremely thin fibers of 0.9 denier or less, polyester is spun into a draft.
After melt spinning at a speed of 200 to 700 m/min and a spinning take-off speed of 3000 to 5000 m/min to form a single fiber with a denier of 0.2 to 0.9 denier, the fiber was heated at 100°C under a constant length or while being elongated by 20% or less. There is a method of heat treatment at a temperature below the melting point. In order to effectively form the composite yarn of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the fiber bundle constituting the core and the ultrafine synthetic fiber multifilament yarn constituting the sheath is extremely important. That is, by using the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn so that the fiber bundle accounts for 30 to 60% by weight, the fiber bundle is completely covered by the large number of ultrafine filaments that make up the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. , it is possible to form a composite yarn with an ideal core-sheath structure. Even if the proportion of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn constituting the composite yarn exceeds 60%, the coverage of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn will be extremely good, but the high shrinkage fibers contained in the composite yarn will The ratio is 4 to composite yarn.
If the proportion of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is less than 30% by weight, the effect of high shrinkage fibers will not be achieved.On the other hand, if the proportion of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is less than 30%, it will be difficult to completely cover and envelop the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, both of which are the objects of the present invention. No composite threads are formed. The accompanying drawings show a side view of the cashmere-like composite yarn according to the present invention in the yarn axis direction. In the figure, 1 is a fluff-like fiber bundle (spun yarn here), 2 is a multifilament yarn, and 3 is an individual filament constituting the multifilament yarn, and these filaments 3 uniformly cover and envelop the fiber bundle 1. It can be seen that Such a composite yarn is produced by simultaneously feeding a fuzzy fiber bundle and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn to a disturbed fluid treatment zone, and at the same time, feeding (overfeeding) 30 to 70% more synthetic fiber multifilament yarn to the fiber bundle. When supplied to the disturbed fluid treatment area, the large number of ultrafine filaments constituting the synthetic fiber filament yarn intertwine with each other due to the disturbance action of the fluid, completely enveloping the fiber bundle, resulting in a composite yarn with a core-sheath structure. It will be done. If the overfeed amount of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is less than 30%, the fiber bundle itself will be exposed to the surface,
Synthetic fiber multifilament yarns do not allow complete coverage of fiber bundles. Also, if the overfeed amount exceeds 70%,
The overfeed cannot be absorbed in the turbulent fluid treatment area, causing an imbalance in tension between the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and the fiber bundle, resulting in unstable processes, such as yarn breakage. Therefore, the overfeed amount of synthetic fiber multi-yarn should be 30~30 to ensure that all the fiber bundles are completely wrapped up.
A feed difference of 70% is adopted. Note that the turbulent fluid treatment referred to in the present invention can be performed using a normal interlaced nozzle, but may also be performed using a turbulent jet nozzle (taslan nozzle). When using the composite yarn according to the present invention, it is most preferable to subject the yarn or fabric to a relaxation treatment using, for example, boiling water to impart bulk to the core fiber bundle. As a result, the bulkiness of the yarn as a whole is further increased, and it is possible to obtain a fabric with excellent bulkiness, an extremely soft surface feel, a cashmere-like touch with a slimy feel, and a highly uniform appearance. . In other words, by using synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with a monofilament degree of 0.9 denier or less as a sheath component, highly flexible fibers can be used on the surface that comes into contact with the skin, which eliminates the roughness and hardness that conventional bulky yarns have. This eliminates the texture and gives a soft cashmere-like feel. Furthermore, since the surface of the fabric is covered with synthetic fiber multifilament yarn in which single fibers are intertwined with each other, it has excellent uniformity. Furthermore, although the composite yarn of the present invention has excellent bulkiness due to its high shrinkage fibers, the single fibers of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn used for the sheath component become entangled with each other due to the disturbed fluid treatment, resulting in a fiber bundle of the core component. Since it has a structure in which the fibers are coated, it is possible to sufficiently exhibit the coating effect without impairing the above-mentioned bulkiness, and the characteristics of each fiber are synergistically exhibited. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a cashmere-like composite yarn with high efficiency without going through the spinning process, and woven and knitted fabrics using this yarn can be widely used in fields such as outerwear, innerwear, and sweaters. can be provided. The present invention will be explained below using examples. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate with [η] 0.65 was melted at 298°C using a spinneret with 72 holes, and spun at a spinning draft of 420 and a spinning take-off speed of 3800 m/min to form a single fiber with a denier of 0.44 denier. After that, a pair of Nelson-type heating rollers (surface temperature 210°C) was provided between the pair of godet rollers and the winder, and constant length heat treatment was performed between the final godet roller and the heating roller. Six of the obtained ultra-fine multifilament yarns (32de/72fil) were used as a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and the dry heat shrinkage rate at a dry heat temperature of 180℃ was 17.
Count 1/56 containing 33% polyester fiber
Nm (160 de in terms of denier) high shrinkage blended yarn was used as a fluff-like fiber bundle. The spun yarn was overfed with the polyester filament yarn by 40% and was simultaneously fed to a normal air turbulence Taslan nozzle and subjected to agitation processing at a processing speed of 160 m/min. As a result, the polyester filament yarn was surrounded by polyester. A core-sheath type composite yarn was obtained in which the filament yarn covered with extremely good coverage. After knitting the composite yarn using a 10-gauge circular knitting machine, it was subjected to a relaxing heat treatment in boiling water for 20 minutes, and the compression ratio and recovery rate of the knitted fabric were measured to evaluate the bulkiness of the knitted fabric. was sensory evaluated. These results are shown in Table 1. For comparison, a combination of spun yarn and polyester filament yarn has a high shrinkage spun yarn count of 1/56Nm with a boiling water shrinkage of 13.5% and a polyester multifilament yarn of 75de/36fils.
In the case of a composite yarn created by applying air turbulence disturbance treatment using the same method using (5 aligned yarns), the above-mentioned high shrinkage blended yarn count 1/56Nm 100%, cashmere spun yarn count 1/ 22Nm and polyester/wool 50/50 blend yarn count 1/56Nm are also listed in Table 1. The circular knitted fabrics were designed and tested to have the same weight regardless of the yarn used.

[Table] Example 2 Four ultrafine multifilament yarns obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 were used as a polyester multifilament yarn, and a high shrinkage blended yarn with a count of 1/56 Nm was used as the spun yarn. . The polyester multifilament yarn is added to the spun yarn.
As a result of overfeeding the spun yarn by 20%, simultaneously feeding it to the interlace nozzle, and performing disturbance processing at a processing speed of 120 m/min, the polyester multifilament yarn covers the spun yarn with extremely good coverage. A core-sheath type composite yarn was obtained. After knitting using the composite yarn on a 14-gauge flat knitting machine, the bulkiness and touch were good. Example 3 A knitted fabric was made from the composite yarn obtained by variously changing the dry heat shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage fiber, the mixing ratio, the use ratio of the sheath component, and the overfeed ratio of the high shrinkage fiber in Example 1,
The evaluation results are shown in Table 2. From Table 2, it can be seen that the desired cashmere-like composite yarn and hence fabric can be obtained only when the above-mentioned conditions satisfy the range specified in the present invention.

[Table] In the above table, Experiment Nos. 3, 8, 9 and 11
Indicates an example of the present invention, and values in parentheses in other experiment numbers indicate cases outside the scope of the present invention.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The figure is a side view of the composite yarn according to the present invention in the yarn axis direction. 1... Fiber bundle, 2... Multifilament yarn,
3...Filaments that make up the multifilament yarn.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A dry heat shrinkage rate of 10 to 25 at a dry heat temperature of 180°C.
A composite yarn whose core component is a fuzzy fiber bundle containing 10 to 50% of high shrinkage fibers, and whose sheath component is a multifilament yarn with a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less. 30~ in the composite yarn
A cashmere-like composite yarn having a core-sheath structure, which accounts for 60% by weight and is characterized by enveloping and covering core components in a state of being mixed and intertwined with each other. 2. The cashmere-like composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the sheath component forms a loop or a slack. 3. The cashmere-like composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn is a polyester multifilament yarn. 4. The cashmere-like composite yarn according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the single fiber fineness is 0.5 denier or less. 5 Dry heat shrinkage rate at dry heat temperature 180℃ is 10-25
%, a fuzzy fiber bundle containing 10 to 50% high shrinkage fiber, and a multifilament yarn with a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less and accounting for 30 to 60% by weight of the entire supplied yarn, compared to the latter. is supplied to a fluid agitation treatment area while overfeeding by 30 to 70%, and the multifilament yarn is coated and wrapped around the fiber bundle in the fluid agitation treatment area to form a core-sheath structure. A method for producing cashmere-like composite yarn.