JPS6018296B2 - Unique printing method for knitted fabrics with uneven patterns - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a different color print on a knitted or woven fabric having an uneven pattern formed of jacquard or the like.

More specifically, the present invention provides a method for dyeing convex patterns and concave portions in different colors in a green fabric having a concavo-convex pattern such as pile fabric made of the same fiber. In recent years, products with patterns designed using jacquard, flocking, embroidery, or melting processing are rapidly expanding their applications not only in the clothing field, but also in the clothing and interior fields due to improvements in knitting, weaving, and processing technology. For example, there are many types such as chair upholstery, table cloths, floor coverings, car seats or slippers, decorative storage, cushion covers, etc. However, most of these have the same color or shading of the same color, and relatively few have completely different hues on the handle and ground (base fabric) parts. Originally, various methods have been used to make the convex pattern formed by loops, piles, short fibers, etc. and the concave pattern formed by the base fabric have different hues, but these methods are extremely time-consuming and time-consuming. There was the complexity of having to use such a method.

In other words, one conventional method is to knit or weave using cotton-like or thread-like dyed fibers so that the convex parts of the pattern and the concave parts of the base fabric have different hues, thereby obtaining different hues on the product. This is what we are trying to do. In addition, while the most well-known method for dyeing both parts separately by piece-dying in knitted or woven fabrics is to use fibers with different dyeability, it is also possible to use the same fibers for the convex and concave areas. As a method of dyeing different colors by piece dyeing, we use the difference in dyeability depending on the degree of heat treatment of synthetic fibers, as is well known for embossing, etc., to dye fabrics with uneven patterns in 180 to 230 colors.
There is a method of dyeing the convex parts that have been strongly affected by the heat treatment and the concave parts that have been less affected by passing the material through a heat calender of about However, it is difficult to have a completely unique hue.

Still another method is to use different fibers for the front and back, or if the same fiber is used, change the texture of the convex portions and concave portions, and use a satin or pile texture for the convex portions with a fine denier that is easy to dissolve. A design is printed with a glue material that contains a drug that can be dissolved or made into arms, and after that part is removed, only the remaining part of the design is brushed or scaled to obtain an uneven pattern, and this is dyed in a plain color to make both parts. In addition, in polyester/cotton moat hem knitting, woven fabrics, etc., fibers on one side of one design are dissolved and removed by so-called opal processing to obtain an uneven surface, and untreated as described above. There are some that have the handle part brushed or furled as necessary, and are plain dyed to give a unique color effect. There are many different color dyeing methods as described above for dyeing different designs of convex and concave parts, but these methods have many unfavorable factors. In other words, in order to obtain products with different colors using the same fiber,
It is necessary to differentiate the hues by cotton dyeing or yarn dyeing, and this requires a detailed plan in advance to decide on the cotton dyeing-spinning-knitting or weaving-finishing route, and in order to produce one product. It takes a very long time and many steps to obtain the desired product, which is inconvenient in that the desired product cannot be obtained immediately. Furthermore, when using different fibers, it is necessary to arrange both fibers.
Even if a jacquard pattern made of different fibers is obtained, the cost will be high, and dyeing chemicals for both fibers are required, and unless special conditions are selected for the dyeing method, contamination from the other dye will occur. This causes problems such as a decrease in vividness, which in turn leads to a decrease in different color effects and a decrease in color fastness such as light fastness, abrasion, and washing resistance. Furthermore, because they are different types of fibers, they have different heat setting properties and the final product has poor dimensional stability. In addition, methods for obtaining a unique effect by arming or melting the fibers to obtain an uneven pattern and then piece-dying the fibers include lengthening, printing process of melting paste material, carbonization process by heat treatment, raising or scale process, etc. The drawback is that it requires a very long process such as a plain dyeing process, special chemical aids, and complicated conditions to create a unique color. The inventors of the present invention have focused on these current situations, and as a result of intensive research to improve this, they have developed a method to easily dye convex and concave areas in completely different hues, even if they are made of the same fiber. devised.

That is, an object of the present invention is to provide a method for rationally coloring the convex and concave pattern parts of ropes and fabrics having concave and convex patterns in completely different hues without using complicated and various processes or special beam chemicals. There is something to do. Furthermore, another important object of the present invention is to provide bulkiness to the concave and convex portions formed from the same fiber by a continuous method, which has been impossible to achieve in the past, while also creating a dense and clear pattern. The purpose is to provide a method for dyeing different colors. The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object.

That is, when printing different colors on the convex and concave parts of a knitted fabric made of the same fiber and having a concave and convex pattern using a printing machine with a plain color on the entire surface, only the convex pattern is pressed down and the printing paste is applied only to the convex pattern. The same fiber is printed using a printing method that combines the process of applying printing paste with a color different from that of the convex pattern to the entire back surface and transferring the dye from the back to the concave pattern of the front surface. It gives a unique effect to. Further, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained in detail.

If you print from the surface with a plain screen, the screen will only touch the convex parts and not the concave parts. Therefore, colored glue adheres only to the convex pattern. The same applies when a printing roll whose entire surface is plain is used. In addition, when using a mangle or the like, color paste is applied to the surface of the roll in contact with the convex pattern to form a glue layer, and if the roll is squeezed appropriately, the dye can be applied only to the convex pattern. I can do it. However, in these cases, if the height of the convex part is low, the area of the concave part is wide, or the glue viscosity is soft and the squeegee pressure or nip pressure is large, the dye paste will also adhere to the concave part and good results will not be obtained. I can't do it. These factors have a major influence on applying glue only to the convex parts without adhering to the concave parts, but if we consider this from the design and printing aspects of the material, the former depends on the nip pressure,
Contact contamination is caused by squeegee pressure, distortion of the screen gauze, and distortion of polishing of the rubber ski. Therefore, to prevent glue from adhering to the depressions, reduce the area of the depressions and increase the height of the protrusions to reduce this effect. There is a need to. On the other hand, regarding the latter, it is also an important factor to prevent contact contamination of the recesses by hardening the viscosity of the glue applied to the convex portions so that the squeegee pressure and nip pressure do not become too strong.

Furthermore, when applying to recesses, it is best to soften the viscosity of the glue so that it penetrates to the surface of the base fabric, and to increase the impression or application pressure to give good results. From this point of view, first of all, the design of the surface where the convex portions are formed and the method of applying the dye should be such that there is no contamination attached to the concave portions, and the conditions for obtaining deep dyeing properties and permeability are as follows: We have found that piles or short fibers with a height of 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, from the base fabric surface have good reproducibility during dye application and yield the best results. Ta.

Similarly, if the distance between the convex patterns on the surface is too wide, the screen or its glue will come into contact with the recesses and easily cause stains. to reduce the surface of the concave pattern, i.e.
The length of the handle of the recess may be elongated in multiple directions, but the maximum wide area within the area is 25mm in diameter. Another important factor of the present invention is to keep it within limits. In other words, if a groove-shaped recess is formed between the protrusions, the inside of the groove is 25. The maximum diameter of the recess must be within 25mm, or the longest diameter of a circular or polygonal recess must be within 25mm. By keeping it within the proboscis, contamination of the recesses during dye application is prevented. Next, regarding the dye application method, in order to apply the glue only to the convex parts and not to the concave parts, the viscosity needs to be slightly hard, at least 100 to 30 on a rotational viscometer. A viscosity of 00 specific ps, preferably 50 specific ps or higher gives good results.

Of course, it varies depending on the printing m/c to be applied.To give a conceptual example of general knitting and textile printing, for example, in the case of roller printing, it is generally very soft and has a speed of 300 to 2,000 ps. Front and rear, rotary screen print m/cl, 000 to 5,00 ratio ps, flat screen print m/c 2,00
Around 0 to 10,00 ps, /・Ward print 5,00
In many cases, it is around 0 to 20,00 relative ps, but among these, depending on the print design, if there are sharp thin lines, it is hard, and if there is a large terrain, it is generally soft. It is well known that this is normal. Therefore, it is natural that the method of the present invention will vary depending on the type of beam liquid supply machine used, but it is better to use a harder glue for the convex handle to give better results. . Next, in the case of the printing method, the squeegee method for the convex portions is as follows: For flat screen printing, the magnetic roll method is easier to apply linear residual pressure to the convex portions than the rubber squeegee method, and it also causes distortion due to the elasticity of the squeegee. There is no influence. That is, the distortion of the screen gauze at the concave portions is reduced accordingly, which is advantageous for the present invention. In addition, in terms of managing printing conditions, the magnetic roll method is relatively easier to manage than the rubber squeegee method, and there are fewer individual differences. From a similar point of view, rotary screen printing machines do not have screen distortion, so it is easy to make linear contact between the protrusions and produce good results.
In this case, good results can be obtained with either a rubber squeegee, a metal squeegee, or a magnetic roll squeegee. Mechanically, roller printing machines have a slightly curved drum surface, which becomes horizontal when pressed with an engraving roll, which applies strong pressure to the fabric being processed. Although it can be difficult, if you use a drum with a horizontal surface, you can apply dye only to the convex parts with light brush pressure.This can be done by using a horizontal roll with the same diameter as the engraving roll instead of the drum. If you use the mangle method, you can use a doctor knife to form a dye layer on the surface of the roller that comes in contact with the convex parts, and lightly nip it to apply it to the concave parts. It is possible to apply the dye well only to the convex pattern part of the contact plate.On the other hand, when applying the dye to the entire surface from the back side, the dye paste sufficiently penetrates to the bottom of the concave part without penetrating into the convex pattern part on the front side. Then, when looking from the front side, apply the product so that there is no unpenetrated area remaining, and the concentration is the same as that on the back side, or a uniform density close to that. Therefore, the base fabric constituting the recess preferably has a loose structure that allows the glue to easily penetrate, and for this purpose, the thickness of the base fabric must be within 3.5 mm. A knitted or woven fabric will give good results for each printing machine.The colored glue on the back side should have a softer viscosity than the convex parts on the front side, and the squeegee pressure or nip pressure should be strong.That is, The glue on the back that is applied to the recesses is softer than the glue on the protrusions, and costs 20,000~
It is preferable to set it to 10 ratio ps or less, preferably 8.00 ratio ps or less, but as mentioned above, it varies depending on the printing machine etc. to which it is applied. As the printing machine, a rotary screen printing machine, a flat screen printing machine, a lo-fu printing machine, or a mangle type printing machine is used as in the case of surface dye application. As for the order of printing, it is preferable to first apply dye to the convex portions on the front surface, and then once dry, print or coat the entire surface with a different hue from the back side. In other words, by applying the dye to the convex part and drying it, the glue applied to the fibers or pile surface of the convex part is solidified, and the next time it is applied from the back side, penetration of the back side is suppressed and the glue does not penetrate to the convex part. This is because the result is only penetration into the base fabric.
However, when simultaneously coating both sides using a double-sided printing machine or the like, the same effect can be obtained without drying by loosening the squeegee pressure and nip pressure on the operating surface. The adhesive used in the method of the present invention is preferably a CMC type or supercharged starch type that has good clarity and color development on the surface, or a combination of these and a locust pea gum type, but when applying the adhesive on the back side. - Good results can be obtained by mainly blending a glue material with good permeability or fluidity, such as castopine gum type or sodium alginate. Another method that produces good results is to print the entire convex surface using a cylinder-type transfer printing machine and then apply printing paste to only the concave portions from the back side. On the other hand, a common steamer or the like may be used for the coloring step after double-sided dye coating according to the method of the present invention.

For example, a normal pressure steamer may be used for natural fibers, rayon, polyamide fibers, etc., and a high pressure steamer or HT steamer (superheated steam) may be used for polyester fibers, and dry heat coloring may be used if necessary. Particularly in the color development process using a steamer, the use of bulk yarn in the convex portions can provide very good winding properties and increased bulk. Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to these examples. Example 1 Nylon pile knitted fabric with a jacquard flower pattern (pile part forming the convex part...Front: nylon processed yarn 140D-34f, base fabric of the concave part...
Back: A white fabric made of nylon filament yarn (21 plates - 34 f, fabric weight: 450 yen/skin), relaxed and refined, dried and set in a 153 cm length was used.

Dye was applied using a flat screen printing machine using a Zimmer type magnetic roll method under the following conditions. Surface print prescription Maypro Gum NP-1 Mother 1) 5%
60% Cellcoal P-10 foundation 2) 6%
60% Suminol Milling Red GRS Note 3)
2.5% polar brilliantt window N Note 4) 0
．． 5% Suminol Milling Yellow 0 Note 5) 0.5
% lactic acid (80%) 1% Grisolv AOX method 6) 1% water
Remaining total 100% Viscosity 450 ratio PS Note 1) Locust peen gum manufactured by Maypro Co., Ltd. Note 2)
Adachi Paste Co., Ltd. CMC adhesive Note 3) Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. Acid dye Note 4) Ciba-Geigy Co., Ltd. Acid dye (C.I. Acid Red 131) Note 5) Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. Acid dye (C-・I Acid Yellow 38) Note 6) Made by Seisei Kagaku Co., Ltd. Thiodiethylene glycol dye dissolving agent screen: Full plain screen Screen mesh: 1200M Magnet roll pressure: Scale 2.5 〃 〃Flea: 8th side stroke: 2 Drying speed: 8 skins/min Dryer temperature: 13500 Print prescription on the back Maypro Gum NP-16 6% 60% Sorbitose C-5 Note 7) 2% 60% API.

Black GW Note 8) 5% lactic acid (80
%) 1% Grisolp AOX
I% water remaining
Total 100% Viscosity 110 ratio PS Note 7) Etherified starch manufactured by Skorten Note 8)
Ciba-Geigy harsh hydrochloric acid dye screen
:Full surface plain screen Screen mesh: 1200
M Magnet roll pressure: Scale 5 〃 〃 Flea: 12 Willow? Stroke: 2 times Speed: 8/min Dryer temperature: 135 qo Color development is Dedeco type Stars March 103 qo x 3
After steaming for 0 minutes, remove the starch with cold water using a wince, soap at 70 oo, and use Sunlife TN (
Acid dye wet wax fastener manufactured by NICCA Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1 evening/1,
A conventional fix treatment was performed using harsh acid (48%) for 1 night/1,80 qo, and after drying, the final setting was performed at 18,000 qo.

As a result, the floral pattern created by the pile is circular, and the base fabric (concave part) of the ground is black, creating a unique effect with a vivid dark color. In addition, the bulkiness of the pile was very good compared to the plain dyed product (both the uneven parts were circular background colors). The shape of the design forming the recess was a deformed pentagon, the widest part of the finished product had a diameter of 20.0 mm, and the thickness of the base fabric was 1.5 mm. The pile length of the convex portion is 1.3 ribs (free state) from the base fabric surface to form a floral pattern. For comparison, the height of the convex part is 1.3cm, the thickness of the base fabric is 1.5cm, and the maximum diameter of the concave part is 3cm.
1. Since the recessed area of the recessed part was large, dye contamination of the recessed part was significant, and an effective unique color product could not be obtained. Example 2 The same pile knitted fabric as in Example 1 was coated with dye on both sides using a rotary screen printing machine using a rubber squeegee method using a screen having mesh holes all over the surface.

Surface print prescription: Maypro Gum NP-16 (16%) 40% Sorhit
Zesp group) (60% Sorbitose C-5 that also attacks Sardines, Supra Seso Yellow GR Mad Lo) 1.3% Erio Green B Note 11) 1.0% Lactic Acid
0.6% Grisobl AOX O. 5% water
Remaining total 100% Note 9) Etherified starch Note 10 manufactured by Skorten
) Acidic dye manufactured by Bayer (C.I. Acid Yellow 49) Note 11) Acidic dye manufactured by Ciba-Geigy (C.I. Acid Green 16) Screen: Fully plain screen Screen mesh: 8NY Rubber squeegee Hardness: 60 Degree〃 Thickness: 8 sides〃 Angle: 5 skin radius〃 Waist length: 3㎇〃 Pressure scale: IQ rib〃 Air pressure: 01.5k9/ground speed: 23/min Dryer temperature: 150qo Printing method on the back side Maypro Gum Np-16 (6%)} 60% Sorbitose C-5 Suminol Milling Yellow 0
1.5%〃 Scarlet R Note 12) 1.5
% lactic acid (80%). 0.5%
Grisolve AOX O. 5
%water . Remaining total 100% Note 12) Sumitomo Chemical Acidic dye (C.I. Acid Red 117) Screen: Full plain screen Screen mesh: 80M rubber squeegee Hardness: 60
Degree〃 Thickness: 6 willow〃 Angle: 8 side radius〃 Waist length 35 skin〃 Pressure scale: 13 side〃 Air pressure: 0.6k9/related speed: 20/min Dryer temperature: 15000 Color development and post-treatment are examples Same as 1.

The result was a three-dimensional, vivid green flower pattern that stood out from the other oranges, giving a very good unique color effect. There was no difference in concentration at the bottom of the recess from that at the back. Further, no dye staining was observed in the recessed portions. Example 3 The height of the convex part is 3.4 skin from the base fabric surface, the thickness of the base fabric is 1.9 The design that forms the rib recess and the widest bottom surface is 16.6 skin in diameter (each intermediate set top white A polyester pile fabric with a floral pattern (fabric product) was coated with dye on the entire front surface using a plain screen using a magnetic roll type rotary screen printing machine, and after drying, the entire back surface was printed with a plain color using the same screen.

The screen mesh is 80M and the roll diameter is Table 12? The 15th side of the back was used. In addition, the electromagnetic pressure has been strengthened on the back side with 2 scales on the front and 3 on the back. The most suitable conditions were found through test processing prior to production. Color development was carried out using a high-pressure steamer at 130°C for 30 minutes, followed by conventional reduction cleaning and final setting at 18,000°C. The unique color of yellow on the surface and red on the recesses was very well received and satisfactory. Example 4 The knitted fabric of Example 1 was coated with colored glue on the upper roll of two vertically arranged rubber rolls using a doctor knife so as to form a uniform glue layer, and only on the convex pattern part. The dye was applied to the convex parts using as light a nip pressure as possible.

After drying, the entire back surface was coated with dye using a rotary screen printing machine in the same manner as in Example 2. A finished product with a good unique color was obtained, with no dye contamination in the recesses or penetration of dye into the pile surface from the back side. Example 5 In Example 2, when printing the front side, the first screen was a rotary screen engraved with a spiral-shaped blurred design on the entire surface, and colored glue on a circular background was used.

Next, a plain screen having mesh holes on the entire surface was placed on the second screen, and wet-on-wet overprinting was performed using orange color lake, and the pile portion was printed in two colors. After drying, the back side was completely coated with black glue. The results were very good, and a unique effect with blurring that could not be obtained using other methods was obtained. Example 6 Polyester cut pile fabric with an uneven pattern (pile length of the product 3.5 feet from the base fabric surface, base fabric thickness 1.0 mm, diameter 12.0 side of the largest wide area surface of the concave part) was coated with disperse dye. A vacuum calendar type transfer printing machine (temperature 200℃, vacuum degree -70 Yanagi Hg,
The convex pattern part was transfer-printed at a speed of 10 skins/min).

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 When printing different colors on the convex and concave parts of a knitted fabric with concave and convex patterns made of the same fiber using a printing machine with a plain color on the entire surface, press only the convex pattern and apply printing paste only to the convex pattern. A concavo-concave pattern characterized by combining the step of applying the printing paste and the step of applying printing paste of a different hue to the entire back side of the back side and transferring the dye from the back side to the concave pattern part of the front side. A unique printing method for knitted fabrics.