JPS5930817B2 - Polyester “umbrella” high thread - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a polyester bulky yarn in which microscopic loops are formed by agitating polyester multifilaments under turbulence, and a method for producing the same.

[Prior art and its problems]

It has been well known since ancient times that bulky yarn with intricately intertwined loops can be obtained by supplying filaments under the disturbed region of turbulent airflow.

The bulky yarn obtained in this way is different from stretchable bulky yarns such as temporary twisted yarns, and is a so-called non-stretchable bulky yarn, which has good bulkiness when made into a fabric and has unique advantages. It has a unique texture and aesthetic appeal.

However, until now, there has been almost no industrial production of bulky yarns for clothing, especially polyester.

There are two main reasons for this.

In other words, one of them is that the bending rigidity of the filament used must be low in order to form fine loops due to turbulence, and if the material is determined, the cross-sectional area of the single fiber, that is, the denier of the single fiber, must be small. Therefore, even if a bulky item can be obtained, the waist and tension of the fabric will decrease,
This tends to result in a product with a so-called uneven feel.

Another reason is that the loops of single fibers are held together by tangles, but during high-level processing processes such as unwinding from the package, knitting, and weaving, they receive external forces and become untangled.
This means that bulkiness is often reduced.

In particular, since it is not a processed yarn that has been subjected to so-called crinkling processing such as temporary twisted yarn, it does not have the potential crinkling ability to restore bulkiness, and once the tangles that have been formed are unraveled, it becomes bulky. This is due to the fact that the bulkiness remains reduced, and careful consideration is required to maintain the bulkiness when handling the yarn in higher-order processing.

As a way to avoid these problems, multiple yarns are fed at different overfeed rates to form the core with yarns with a relatively low overfeed rate and other yarns with a relatively high overfeed rate. Another method is to form a sheath with strips and use the core to support changes caused by external forces.

However, with this method, the equipment is complicated because multiple threads are fed at different overfeed rates, and in terms of quality, there is a core that is almost linear and does not directly contribute to bulk. disadvantageous to

Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-14784, multifilaments with different heat shrinkage rates are subjected to fluid turbulence treatment to give them mixed, cut, and intertwined fibers, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment, and heated to form a bulk material for use in spun yarns having fluff. Obtaining yarn is disclosed.

However, in order to generate fuzz through fluid turbulence processing when using polyester multifilament, large fluid pressure and flow rate are required even if a material with a low intrinsic viscosity is used, and the fuzz that is scattered when fuzz is generated can be scattered around the processing machine. This method is not preferable because it reduces the maintenance of the processing machine and the processing operability.

[Purpose of the invention]

As a result of intensive studies in view of the shortcomings of the prior art, the inventors of the present invention have found that fluid turbulence treatment can be used to create a material that has good bulk, firmness and tension, and has a high level of elasticity without substantially generating fuzz. The present invention was achieved by discovering an excellent bulky yarn with little loss of bulk during processing steps.

[Structure of the Invention] That is, the present invention provides a bulky yarn in which at least two types of polyester multifilaments having different intrinsic viscosities are mixed, and the multifilament A having an intrinsic viscosity of 060 or less constituting the yarn is 3.2 denier. It is composed of filaments with the following fineness and accounts for 20 to 75% by weight of the entire bulky yarn, and the remaining multifilaments have an intrinsic viscosity that is 0.05 or more thicker than A (by the disturbance of turbulence, the filaments constituting A) The filaments constituting the remaining multifilament are mixed over the entire bulky yarn to form a minute loop, and the loop formed by the filament constituting the remaining multifilament is a relatively large loop, Further, the polyester bulky yarn is characterized in that the yield stress of the S-8 curve is 1.0 P/d or more.

One of the characteristics of the bulky yarn of the present invention is that it has minute loops formed by the disturbance of turbulence, and its S-8 curve (load-
The value of yield stress of elongation curve) is 1. This is high, at or above Of/d.

According to studies by the present inventors, the maximum tension instantaneously applied to the yarn during higher processing steps such as knitting and weaving is approximately 1.0 P/d, which reduces the loss of bulkiness during higher processing steps. In order to do this, the yield/stress of the yarn is 1. It needs to be equal to or higher than OS'/d.

Next, the yield stress of the S-8 curve of the yarn will be explained using drawings.

Figure 1A shows the bulky yarn S-
8 curves, and as the thread is let out, the weaker parts of the loops gradually unravel, resulting in an instantaneous drop in tension and a serrated curve.

= In general, the collapse of the entangled state of fibers often shows an avalanche phenomenon, where one weakly entangled part of the loop collapses, and when the entanglement is released, it rapidly spreads throughout the whole. It shows the characteristics of

Here, in the S-8 curve, the lowest point showing an instantaneous drop in tension of 10% or more with respect to the tension at that position is defined as the first yield point (hereinafter simply referred to as yield point).

The yield point is shown as Y in FIGS. 1A and B.

In FIG. 1A, the stress at the yield point, that is, the yield stress is approximately 0.
It is 75S'/d.

In bulky yarns subjected to conventional turbulence disturbance treatment, this yield stress is approximately in the range of 0.5 to 0.8 P/d, and as the tension increases further, the yarn exhibits a sawtooth S-8 curve with severe irregularities. was the norm.

For this reason, conventional bulky yarns have a defect in that they have poor retention of the intertwined structure of loops during high-order processing steps.

That is, the loops formed during the bulking process (turbulent flow disturbance treatment) of the raw yarn gradually decrease until it becomes a fabric, resulting in the final product not exhibiting satisfactory bulkiness.

FIG. 1B shows the S-8 curve of the bulky yarn of the present invention, whose yield stress value is 1.75 f/d.

In the figure, two unevennesses can be seen before point Y, which are 10
% and is not considered a yield point according to the definition of yield point given above.

The reason for defining the yield point of the S-8 curve in the present invention as the first point at which the tension decreases by 10% or more of the tension at the opposite position is that minute irregularities in the S-8 curve are targeted by the present invention. This is essentially unavoidable due to the structure of bulky textured yarns, and according to the empirical findings of the present inventors, instantaneous changes in tension of less than 10% usually occur when handling yarns, and This is because there are no major changes in the confounding structure.

Further, the higher the yield point is, the more desirable it is, and the most preferable one is one in which the S-8 curve is substantially smooth; in such a case, the yield point coincides with the breaking point.

The S-8 curve was measured using an Instron-type measuring device at a sample length of 20 cr I'L and a tensile speed of 10 CmZ, and recorded on a suitable recording paper.

This operation was repeated to perform measurements three times, and the average value was expressed.

The bulky yarn of the present invention must have a yield stress of 1.0 y'/d or more in all three measurements.

Furthermore, the denier used to calculate the yield stress should be the indicated denier of the yarn just before it enters the bulking fluid nozzle, as the value will vary depending on the degree of bulkiness of the yarn after bulking.

Another feature of the bulky yarn of the present invention is that the bulky yarn is a mixture of at least two types of polyester multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities, in which a specific filament forms the core,
This is different from the bulky yarn obtained by so-called core effect processing in which other filaments are entangled around the core.

Even with such core effect processing, depending on how the conditions are set, the smooth S-8 that is the characteristic of the present invention can be produced.
You get something with a curve.

However, the bulky yarn obtained by such a method has a core portion that is almost linear and does not contribute to bulk over almost the entire area of the yarn, and due to the rigidity of the core portion, drapability and
It is unsuitable as a bulky yarn for clothing that requires a soft feel.

In contrast, the bulky yarn of the present invention does not have a specific core, and filaments with different intrinsic viscosities are mixed over almost the entire area, so it exhibits good bulkiness, and has a soft touch due to the low intrinsic viscosity filaments, and a high This is suitable for obtaining fabrics with stiffness and tension due to the intrinsic viscosity filaments.

The bulky yarn of the present invention is composed of filaments with a fineness of 3.2 deniers or less when manufacturing a bulky yarn by agitating yarns containing a mixture of two types of polyester multifilaments under turbulence. , and the whole 2
A yarn containing a mixture of multifilament A with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 or less and multifilament with an intrinsic viscosity 005 or more higher than A, which accounts for 0 to 75% by weight, was agitated under turbulence to form minute loops. It can be manufactured by post-winding.

Here, a specific method for manufacturing the bulky yarn of the present invention described above will be explained in detail with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the preferred steps of the method for producing bulky yarn of the present invention. After the filament 2 is fed to the yarn feeding roller 4 via the tensioner 3 that suppresses fluctuations in unwinding tension, the filament 2 is passed between the yarn feeding roller 4 and the take-up roller 7 in a relaxed state by fluid turbulence. The fluid is subjected to turbulent flow treatment by the nozzle 6 and wound up by the winder 8.

In addition, if a moisture applying device 5 is provided in front of the nozzle 6 and moisture is applied to the yarn, the yield stress of the S-8 curve of the resulting bulky yarn increases, and the uniformity of the loops in the length direction of the yarn improves. preferable.

As a means to obtain a yarn in which polyester multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities are mixed, there are methods as shown in Fig. 2 (method of plucking separately drawn multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities, method of spinning polyester multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities from different discharge holes of the same die), There are a method in which filaments having different intrinsic viscosities are simultaneously spun and then drawn, a method in which undrawn multifilaments having different intrinsic viscosities are simultaneously drawn on a drawing machine and combined into yarns, and the like.

In any case, it is sufficient to mix filaments with different intrinsic viscosities before they are introduced into the fluid turbulence nozzle, and the method is not limited to the above example, It is preferable to combine undrawn multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities while simultaneously drawing them on a drawing machine. .

The polyester constituting the bulky yarn of the present invention is made from terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative (diester of an alkanol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and ethylene glycol, or from terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative and ethylene glycol. and polyesters obtained from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate or a low polymer thereof, or from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate and a small amount (both with one other component) It is a polyester with a small number of structural units (both 70% of which are polyethylene terephthalate).

The polyester also contains pigments such as carbon black, phthalocyanine, titanium oxide, silicic anhydride, phosphoric acid,
Phosphorus compounds such as phosphorous acid, triphenyl phosphate, trimethyl phosphate, and triphenyl phosphite may be added.

The yield stress of the bulky yarn obtained by the present invention is 1. In order to achieve Or/a or higher, the intrinsic viscosity of the low intrinsic viscosity multifilament should be 0.60 or less, and the proportion of the entire bulky yarn should be 20 to 7.
5% by weight and the fineness of the constituent filaments is 3.
It needs to be 2 denier or less.

Intrinsic viscosity for low intrinsic viscosity multifilament is 0.55
The following is preferable, more preferably 0.50 or less, and the proportion of the entire bulky yarn is more preferably 25 to 65% by weight.

When the proportion of low intrinsic viscosity multifilament is less than 20% by weight, the S-8 curve yield stress is i, o'? /ci or more is difficult, and if it is more than 75% by weight, the stiffness and tension will decrease when made into a fabric, which is not preferable.

On the other hand, the intrinsic viscosity of the remaining multifilament needs to be 0.05 or more higher than the intrinsic viscosity of the low intrinsic viscosity multifilament (A) in order to improve the elasticity and tension when made into a fabric. It is more preferable to have an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 or higher.

In addition, the intrinsic viscosity as used in the present invention refers to the 0-
It refers to the intrinsic viscosity measured as a chlorophenol solution at 25°C.

As for the single yarn denier and the number of filaments of the low intrinsic viscosity multifilament of 0.60 or less used in the present invention, a fine denier and a large number of filaments are preferable because the yield stress of the S-8 curve of the bulky yarn to be obtained is improved. Specifically, the single yarn denier must be 3.2 denier or less, and 2.1
A denier or less is more preferable.

The number of filaments is preferably 10 or more, more preferably 15 or more.

The number of filaments of the low intrinsic viscosity multifilament is preferably greater than the number of filaments of the high intrinsic viscosity multifilament, since this improves the yield stress of the bulky yarn obtained.

On the other hand, the single yarn denier of the high intrinsic viscosity multifilament is preferably 2.1 denier or more, and the single yarn denier of the low intrinsic viscosity multifilament is preferably 3.2 denier or more, which reduces the stiffness and tension of the fabric. It is more preferable to improve the performance.

The phenomenon that the S-8 curve of the bulky yarn obtained by mixing multifilaments with different intrinsic viscosities is smoothed and the yield stress thereof is improved cannot be clearly explained, but it is assumed to be as follows.

That is, when a multifilament is placed under the disturbing effect of turbulence, the multifilament opens, twists, or forms a loop, resulting in a complex intertwined structure.

In this case, if a mixture of filaments with different intrinsic viscosities is used as in the present invention, the filaments with high intrinsic viscosity have less momentum under turbulent air flow and form large loops because the rigidity against bending and twisting of single fibers is different. form,
It is thought that the low intrinsic viscosity filament entangles with the high intrinsic viscosity filament, which has relatively little momentum, forming a minute loop, which has the effect of fixing the large loop.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The effects of the bulky yarn of the present invention are summarized as follows.

■ The filaments with high intrinsic viscosity form relatively large loops, so they exhibit good covering and bulkiness, and even if they are compressed after being made into fabrics, they have great recovery properties and have a voluminous feel with high resilience.

In other words, in order to enhance the processing effect of disturbance caused by turbulence, which was another drawback of the conventional method, only thin single yarn denier is used, and although the loop formation effect is improved, the stiffness and tension of the fabric are poor and the fabric is uneven. With the bulky yarn of the present invention, it is possible to solve the problem that only a textured product could be obtained.

■ Is the yield stress of the S-8 curve 1.0 because the relatively large loop formed by the high intrinsic viscosity filament is fixed by the tiny loop formed by the low intrinsic viscosity filament?
/d or more, the bulk retention property in higher-order processing steps is improved.

■ It exhibits good bulk because it is a mixture of filaments with different intrinsic viscosities, and has both the soft touch of low intrinsic viscosity filaments and the firmness and tension of high intrinsic viscosity filaments, and is suitable for fabrics for this purpose. It is suitable as

The present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples below.

Example 1 This example is intended to clarify the required level of intrinsic viscosity on the low intrinsic viscosity side.

The high intrinsic viscosity side is polyethylene terephthalate 75D-24F drawn yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.68, and the low intrinsic viscosity side is polyethylene terephthalate 75 with an intrinsic viscosity shown in Table 1.
D-24F drawn yarn was used in combination with a high intrinsic viscosity drawn yarn to perform bulk processing in the process shown in FIG.

In this case, the surface speed of the tying roller 4 is 200 m/min, the surface speed of the take-up roller 70 is 160 m/min, and the fluid turbulence nozzle 6 is the nozzle described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,545,057. The supplied air was treated with fluid turbulence at an air pressure of 6 kg/c and an air flow rate of 8 Nm''/hr, and then wound up with a winder 8 at a winding tension of 20 g.

Note that 5 ml/rrin of water was applied to the yarn from the moisture applying device 5.

Table 1 shows the yield stress of the S-8 curve of the obtained bulky yarn.

In the micro loops of the bulky yarn of /16.1, there was almost no difference in the loop shape between the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side, whereas the bulky yarn of /162 to 4 had a small loop shape on the high intrinsic viscosity side. The filaments on the low intrinsic viscosity side were mixed over the entire area to form minute loops, and the loops of the filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side were larger.

(Note) /161 is a comparative example in which the intrinsic viscosity of the low intrinsic viscosity filament exceeds the upper limit of the present invention, and the yield stress is low.

/162 to 4 are defined in the present invention. It satisfies the requirements. low intrinsic viscosity filament Intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 or less Moreover, the intrinsic viscosity is low. The higher the yield stress is, the higher the yield stress is. It shows.

The obtained bulky yarn was knitted using a 18G two-stage double-sided circular knitting machine, and the resulting fabric was subjected to sensory tests for bulkiness, covering properties, compression recovery properties, resilience, waist, tension, and flexibility.

In test 161, the loop shape collapsed during knitting due to the low yield stress of the bulky yarn, and all test items other than flexibility were at an insufficient level.

Test/I62-4 has a bulky yarn yield stress of 11/d or more, all inspection items are good, and the spun touch is excellent, especially the filament loops on the high intrinsic viscosity side than the filament loops on the low intrinsic viscosity side. Since the loop was large, the bulkiness, covering property, compression recovery property, and resilience were good.

Example 2 This example is intended to clarify the required level of viscosity difference between the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side.

The low intrinsic viscosity filament was a drawn polyethylene terephthalate 75'D-24F yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.50, and the high intrinsic viscosity filament was a drawn polyethylene terephthalate 75D-24F yarn with an intrinsic viscosity shown in Table 2. In combination with yarn, bulk processing was performed under the processing conditions of Example 1.

Table 2 also shows the yield stress of the S-8 curve of the obtained bulky yarn, and the results of a sensory test of the stiffness and tension of the fabric obtained by knitting the bulky yarn with a 18G, two-stage double-sided circular knitting machine.

For the micro loops of the bulky yarn of /164, the difference in the loop shape between the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side was so small that it was hardly noticeable, whereas for the bulky yarns of 1 to 3, the difference in the loop shape was almost invisible on the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side. The filaments on the low intrinsic viscosity side were mixed over the entire area to form minute loops, and the loops of the filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side were larger.

(Note) A4 has high intrinsic viscosity and low intrinsic viscosity. The viscosity difference with the viscosity side is 0.05 or more This is a comparative example of the yield stress is low.

/161-3 meet the requirements of the present invention. The yield stress is high due to the addition of The waist and tension of the knitted fabric are also excellent.

For this reason, the fabrics obtained from /161-3 had good bulkiness, covering properties, compression recovery properties, resilience, waist, tension, and flexibility, and had an excellent spun touch feel.

Example 3 This example is intended to clarify the required level of the weight proportion on the low intrinsic viscosity side.

The high intrinsic viscosity side is a polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.68, and the low intrinsic viscosity side is a polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.50. Processing was carried out under the same conditions as Example 2.

The obtained results are also listed in Table 3.

The filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side of each bulky yarn were mixed over the entire area to form minute loops, and the loops of the filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side were larger, but /16. The loops of the bulky yarn in No. 1 were not entangled enough.

In Test/161, the loop shape collapsed during knitting due to the low yield stress of the bulky yarn, the bulkiness of the knitted fabric was low, and the covering properties, compression recovery properties, resilience, waist, and tension were also insufficient.

Test/I6.6 had insufficient stiffness and tension among these inspection items because the proportion of low intrinsic viscosity was too high.

Tests/I6.2 to 5 were at a satisfactory level for all of these inspection items.

(Note) Ma 1 and Arai 6 are comparative examples; O 1 has a low yield stress, and Fu 6 has a low knitted fabric stiffness and tension.

/162.3.4.5 satisfies the requirements of the present invention, and the yield stress is high (and the stiffness and tension of the knitted fabric are also excellent).

Example 4 This example is intended to clarify the required level of fineness of filaments on the low intrinsic viscosity side.

Processing and evaluation were carried out under the same conditions as in Example 2, except that the high intrinsic viscosity side was a polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.68 and the low intrinsic viscosity side was an intrinsic viscosity of 0.50, and the number of filaments shown in Table 4 was used. did.

In all bulky yarns, the filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side and the low intrinsic viscosity side were mixed over the entire area to form minute loops, and the loops of the filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side were larger, but in /V51. The loops of the bulky yarn were not entangled enough.

(Note) No. 41 is a comparative example, and the yield stress is low, and the stiffness and tension of the knitted fabric are insufficient.

On the other hand, /I6.2.3 satisfies the requirements of the present invention, has a high yield stress, and has excellent stiffness and tension of the knitted fabric.

For this reason, when the bulky yarn of /I61 is knitted, the loop shape collapses and the large loops of filaments on the high intrinsic viscosity side also collapse, which not only reduces the bulkiness but also reduces the covering property.
Compression recovery, resilience, waist, and tension were also insufficient.

On the other hand, for /'162.3, the yield stress of the bulky yarn is Is'
/d or more, and the knitted fabric had good bulk, covering properties, compression recovery properties, resilience, waist, tension, and flexibility, and had an excellent spun touch feel.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1A shows the bulky yarn S-
8 curve, FIG. 1B shows the S of the bulky yarn obtained by the method of the present invention.
-8 curve, FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing processing steps suitable for obtaining the bulky yarn of the present invention. Y: yield point, 1: polyester multifilament with low intrinsic viscosity, 2: polyester multifilament with high intrinsic viscosity, 3: tenser, 4: yarn feeding roller, 5: moisture imparting device, 6: fluid turbulence nozzle, 7: Take-up roller, 8:
Winder.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A bulky yarn in which at least two types of polyester multifilaments having different intrinsic viscosities are mixed, the multifilament A having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 or less constituting the yarn.
is composed of filaments with a fineness of 3.2 denier or less and accounts for 20 to 75% by weight of the entire bulky yarn, and the remaining multifilament has an intrinsic viscosity greater than A by 0.05 or more, and A is formed by the disturbance of turbulent airflow. The filaments that make up the remaining multifilament and the filaments that make up the remaining multifilament intermingle over the entire area of the bulky yarn, forming minute loops, and the loops formed by the filaments that make up the remaining multifilament are relatively large loops. Further, the yield stress of the S-8 curve is 1. Of/
d or more. 2. The polyester bulky yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of filaments of multifilament A is greater than the number of remaining filaments. 3. The polyester bulky yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the single filament denier of the remaining filaments is 2.1 denier or more.