JPS5926506A - Arm swinging method of person stand for garment fabrication added with motion amount and allowance amount - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Originally, the angle at which the sleeve falls relative to the body of a garment changes depending on the type of garment. Therefore, I will now enumerate the common knowledge of sleeve swing angles in clothing modeling. 1 in FIG. 1 and 1 in FIG. 2 are cases where the sleeve swing angle is 0 degrees.

This angle is a basic type and is used for clothing similar to "formal attire" that requires relatively little movement. 2 in FIG. 1 and 2 in FIG. 2 are 18.5 degrees. This angle is often used for clothing types such as "town wear." 3 in Fig. 1 and 3 in Fig. 2 have sleeve swings of 37 degrees, and are mainly used for making templates for outer garments such as "two-sleeve raglan." Next, 4 in Figure 1 and 4 in Figure 2 are 55.
This is a five-degree sleeve swing. Most of them are generally used for work clothes, exercise clothes, etc., which involve relatively vigorous movement. 5 in FIG. 1 and 5 in FIG. 2 have a swing angle of 74 degrees and are used for shaft-type clothing made of a single piece of fabric, such as "dolman sleeves." The above is a common-sense method of using the shaft swing angle. However, in the current general clothing industry, mass-produced clothing manufacturers, custom-made clothing manufacturers, as well as clothing-related school institutions and research institutes, it is difficult to produce clothing with rational sleeves that can satisfy the intended functional use of the clothing. Not done. This is evident in the fact that clothing with different functions are simply put on the same platform, the sleeve-shaped characteristics of each type of clothing are ignored, and the influence of the sleeves on the body is also lost. In the preliminary stage of garment production, when comparing the sense of the work and the finished garment when drawing the lines of a costume, conventionally a stand without arms or arms with a swing angle of 0 degrees were used on a car. Therefore, the functions and characteristics of the clothes were not clearly expressed. In addition, even when the prototype drawings were drawn based on the old method, the drawings were developed with reference to the costume side, which was drawn at an unclear scale.

Because of this, the position of the bottom of the oil and the position of the armhole line were also unclear.

In the present invention, in order to solve the problems mentioned in the previous section, clothes are manufactured using a stand having an effective and appropriate arm swing angle. When using the arm of the garment production stand of the present invention,
It becomes possible to match the sleeve swing angle that the garment should originally have with the sleeve swing angle of the stand. It uses a human stand that has the intended use and arm swing angle that is suitable for each garment, and is made to scale at the costume stage.
Attach the created clothes to a human stand with the same angle.

This means that the design sense and S-curvature of the clothing, as well as the required amount of movement, are taken into account. Next, an example of the present invention will be described. The costume side in Figure 3 is a single-piece shaft-type coat. The required sleeve drop angle for this coat is considered to be around 37 degrees, based on common knowledge in clothing modeling. Therefore, I prepared a picture of the arm swinging stand made to scale, and set the arm swing angle to 37 degrees.

Also, the swing angle of the arm of the production stand should match 37 degrees. Figure 4 is a drawing of this coat as if it were to be worn on a scaled human stand. Next, as shown at 1 in Figure 4, measure at right angles along your arm from the bottom of the oil to your shoulder line.

In FIG. 5, a side view of 1 in FIG.
2 in the figure represents measurement at right angles to the curve of the sleeve. The measurement section is the distance from the intersection of the chest hood line and the chest circumference line shown in Figure 6 on the human stand to the intersection of the back line 11 and the chest circumference line, which is 4 in Figure 6. As a result, when drawing the production pattern, the oil bottom position is temporarily set to the oil bottom position in the recording design, as shown in Figure 6, and the distance from the front oil bottom position to the rear oil bottom position of the stand is measured. Depending on this, it is possible to determine the minimum necessary sleeve hem size. Furthermore, the necessary amounts of the sleeve hem and sleeve hem height are automatically determined based on the measurements. Also, with regard to the positions of the sleeve markings and sleeve attaching lines, it is no longer necessary to change the positions determined at the time of the costume side. Furthermore, by putting the finished clothes on the person's stand, it becomes possible to compare them with the clothes and to check whether the movement functions of the clothes are being fully utilized.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIGS. 1 and 2 illustrate the arm swing angles 1 to 5 as an example when manufacturing clothes using the method of the present invention. Figure 1 is a front view. Second
The figure is a side view. Figure 3 shows the costume side of a women's single-layer coat. FIG. 4 is a recorded blueprint of a court drawn on a stand with a swing angle of 37 degrees. FIG. 5 is a side view of the platform with an arm swing angle of 37 degrees. FIG. 6 is a drawing showing the setting of the shaft template. 1 in Figure 6 is the oil bottom position. 2 in Figure 6 is the height of the sleeve crest. 3 in Figure 6 is the sleeve [11 dimensions]. Patent Applicant Free Sakae 2nd Department Procedural Amendment (Method) 1. Indication of the Case Patent Application No. 132418 of 1982 2゜ Title of Invention Ht Azusa M Mata G Nobu Brass ship uncle. 3. Relationship with the case of the person making the amendment Patent applicant address: 177 Nerima-ku, Tokyo";i' to 'A2-19, it! 14 No. 5, Subject of amendment: 1 drawing' 6. Contents of amendment: "Drawing" engraving (by Seidan)

Claims (1)

[Claims] The present invention is a method of swinging the arms of a clothing production stand for swinging angles of sleeve drop portions that vary depending on the type of clothing. It can be applied to any type of clothing, including men's clothing, women's clothing, and children's clothing. Moreover, since the costume side and the clothes are expressed at the same angle, it is possible to eliminate any sense of discomfort between the two sides. In addition, it is an arm swinging method that can easily be used to express designs that differ depending on the type of clothing and to standardize the drawings of clothing.