JPS59199837A - Sprinkly crepe fabric and producton thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a marbled woven fabric that has a marbled-like (heather-like) appearance on the surface of the fabric, has a unique color effect on the front and back sides, and has a soft and warm texture. A wrinkled textile and a method for producing the same. Conventionally, silk is composed of sericin/fibroin and is easily fibrillated during fine dyeing. Therefore, mixed woven X fabrics with a plain weave structure of X raw silk and polyester fiber yarn are dyed with raw sake and silk single-piece dyeing in the dyeing finishing process. Even in that case, it was common to knead the material and dye it in a normal pressure boiler.

When such fabrics are subjected to high-temperature treatment similar to the dyeing conditions for polyester fibers, fraying occurs, which is a defect due to silk fibrillation, and the texture is impaired.
It was common knowledge that it was considered a classy item. The present invention seeks to take advantage of these common drawbacks of the prior art as surface effects for specific fabrics.

That is, in the present invention, raw silk is arranged in the warp and polyester twisted yarn is arranged in the weft, and the fabric is woven with a structure with a lot of warp float. ,
It is a marbled textured fabric that has a different appearance from the ground part and is dyed in a different color on the front and back sides.It is also made of raw silk for the warp and polyester twisted yarn for the weft. It is woven into a structure with many threads, and then refined.

A marbled grain-like grained fabric characterized by being made to stand up in the dyeing process and by fibrillating a part of the raw silk to generate fluff at the grain ridges, and also having different colors dyed on the front and back sides. This is the manufacturing method.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

Raw silk is used for the warp threads, and the thickness of the raw silk is 21 medium/
1 to 28 out of 4 (total denier, 21 denier ~
It corresponds to 112 denier. ). Polyester twisted yarn is used for the weft. The polyester may be any type of polyester such as regular polyester or polyester dyeable with normal pressure cation dyes, but in order to more effectively achieve the purpose of the present invention, K may be a fiber yarn made of polyester dyeable with normal pressure cation dyes. preferable. It is preferable to use polyester twisted yarn with a diameter of 20 to 200 denier. Although it is preferable that the single yarn denier be thin, in consideration of strength and wrinkle effect, it is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 denier, and more preferably 0.7 to 2.0 denier.

The polyester twisted yarn is preferably a first-twisted polyester yarn or a strongly twisted polyester yarn. In the case of a first-twisted processed yarn, the number of first twists is preferably 300 to 1,500 times/m, more preferably 500 to 1,200 times/m. In the case of strongly twisted yarn, the number of twists is 1500 to 4000 times/m, preferably 2
000 to 3500 times/m.

Twist set at 50-95°C, preferably 65-85°
It is best to use C.

These yarns are used for weaving, and the weaving structure needs to be a structure with a large warp, for example, a twill weave structure such as 5 to 8-ply satin, -1□ twill, -□ twill. Alternatively, a modified structure such as dobby φ jacquard may be used. Even in this case, it is necessary to create a woven structure that prevents weft yarns from appearing on the surface of the fabric.

Next, the woven fabric is scoured and dyed, and at any point during the process, friction is applied to the raw silk between the cloths to fibrillate the raw silk, which forms piles. The peaks develop white downy fluff, giving them a heather-like appearance that is different from the ground. That is, the scouring is usually carried out at 50 to 100"C, 10" using a liquid jet dyeing machine, a tumble washer or a Kui YXM dyeing machine, etc.
~60 minutes, then as necessary, D 140~1
90'C.

Heat setting is performed for 10 seconds to several minutes, and then the dyeing process is carried out using, for example, a jet dyeing machine, a tumble washer, or a Winsya dyeing machine, usually at a temperature of 90 to 120°C, 20 to
The duration is 90 minutes. The dyeing process may be one-sided dyeing of raw silk (polyester fiber yarn remains undyed) or two-bath different color dyeing of polyester fiber yarn and raw silk. Ordinary dyes are used. During this process, wrinkles occur in the fabric, and the raw silk at the grain ridges fibrils due to friction between the fabrics, creating a whitish downy fuzz, giving it a heather-like appearance that is different from the base part. In fact, if you look at the entire surface of the fabric, you will get a 9-tone marbling effect. At the same time, due to the difference in dyeing between the polyester fiber yarn and the raw silk, the front and back sides of the fabric have different colors. Next, finishing, heat setting, and optional resin finishing are performed.

As described above, the manufactured fabric is a novel fabric with a grained appearance in which the raw silk in the grain ridges is fibrillated and white fluffy fluff is generated, and the appearance is different from that of the ground part. The appearance is a silk/polyester mixed weave with a marbling effect.

Example Warp: raw silk 28 medium/l, weft: 75 denier 3
6 filament polyester yarn (first twist count: 100)
0 times/m), gray density: 327 pieces/inch,
Five sheets of satin were woven at a weft of 111 threads/inch. Then,
Scouring and graining using a jet dyeing machine at 100°C for 40 minutes; dyeing using a jet dyeing machine at 100°C for 60 minutes; only the warp raw silk is colored black with acid dye, C, 1,26300. It was dyed and then finished with resin processing. The obtained fabric is a wrinkled fabric with a black woven surface of raw silk on the front surface and a white woven surface of polyester twisted yarn on the back surface, and is made of raw silk. The barge part was gray and had a heather tone, and the surface of the fabric as a whole had a marbled appearance with black and gray. Moreover, the woven fabric exhibited a novel woven appearance that was soft and warm.

Patent applicant Toyobo Co., Ltd.

Claims (9)

[Claims] (1) The warp is raw silk and the weft is polyester twisted yarn, which is woven with a texture with a lot of warp floating. This is a marbled shibo textile that has a different appearance and is characterized by being dyed in a different color on the front and back sides. (2) The marbled crinkle-like grained fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester twisted yarn is pre-twisted. (3) The marbled crinkle-like grained fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester twisted yarn is a strongly twisted yarn. (4) The woven fabric having a box-like pattern as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the texture with many warps is 5 to 8 pieces of satin. (5) The marbled grained fabric according to claims 1 to 3, wherein the texture with a large warp is -i twill. (6) The marbled patterned fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the texture with a large warp is a -1 film. (7) Raw silk is placed in the warp and polyester twisted yarn is placed in the weft to create a texture with a lot of warp float, and then scouring and/or
Alternatively, in the dyeing process, the raw silk is grained and a part of the raw silk is fibrillated to generate fluff in the crests, and the front and back sides are dyed in different colors. Conditioning is the method of manufacturing textiles. (8) The method for producing a marbled crinkle texture fabric as set forth in claim 7, wherein the polyester twisted yarn is a pre-twisted processed yarn. (9) A method for producing a marbled woven fabric according to claim 7, wherein the polyester twisted yarn is a strongly twisted yarn. (a) The method for producing a marbled grained fabric according to claims 7 to 9, wherein the texture with many warps is 5 to 8 sateen. (b) A method for producing a marbled woven fabric according to claims 7 to 9, wherein the texture with a large warp float is 1-arayl. (a) A method for producing a marbled grained fabric according to claims 7 to 9, wherein the texture with many warps is 1-ara-fl.