JPS59163450A - Production of chambray veloir knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a chambray velor knitted fabric, and more particularly to a method for producing a chambray velor knitted fabric in which the ground portion and the velor are made of yarns with different dyeability. It is.

Conventionally, chambray velor knitted fabrics have been manufactured by using real silk for the velor, or by twisting or mixing filaments of two or more synthetic fiber yarns with different luster and dyeability and using them as the velor yarn. ing. However, in the former case, the cost of silk thread is extremely high, and this is reflected in the final product. Also,
In the latter method, the filaments are mixed by plying or running the yarn through turbulent air to create entanglement between the filaments, so the processing cost for single plying or mixed fibers is high, and sometimes due to processing unevenness. This may cause quality problems. In the latter case, since the velor yarn is made by twisting or blending two or more types of synthetic fiber yarns, it tends to have a marbled or heathered texture, making it difficult to obtain a chambray effect. there were.

The present invention aims to eliminate such conventional drawbacks, and its purpose is to obtain a desired chambray velor knitted fabric that has a deep and elegant chambray effect at a low cost. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a chambray velor knitted fabric.

In other words, in the present invention, synthetic fiber yarns having mutually different dyeability are fed simultaneously as a ground part forming yarn and a pile forming yarn, and the yarn feeding amount ratio according to the yarn length of the pile forming yarn to the ground part forming yarn is The gist of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a chambray velor knitted fabric, which is characterized by alternating knitting with a ratio of 1.3 to 2.5 times and shirring the resulting pile fabric.

Hereinafter, one aspect of the present invention will be explained in detail.

Firstly, in the present invention, synthetic fiber yarns having different dyeability are used for the ground portion forming yarn, that is, the base forming yarn (hereinafter referred to as ground yarn) and the pile forming yarn (hereinafter referred to as pile yarn). Such synthetic fiber threads may include synthetic fiber threads of the same type but having different dyeability, or synthetic fiber threads of different types. For example, examples of similar synthetic fibers include regular type polyester yarn dyeable with disperse dyes and cationic type polyester yarn. Not only one type of yarn can be used for each of the ground yarn and pile yarn, but two or more types of yarn with different dyeability can also be used.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned ground yarn and pile yarn are fed simultaneously to knit the ground portion and the pile at the same time, respectively. Alternate knitting is performed in the range of 3 to 2.5 times.

There are no particular restrictions on the type of knitting machine, and any knitting machine that can produce piles with a ratio of the yarn length of the ground section to the yarn length of the pile yarn in the range of 1:L3 to 1:2.5 may be used. Either a single two-throat machine or a double F machine is fine.

In addition, when inter-knitting is performed using synthetic fiber threads of the same type as the ground yarn and raw pie silk, it is preferable to use threads that can be easily dyed in a dark color as the ground yarn.

Furthermore, even when using different types of synthetic fiber threads, it is preferable to use threads that can be easily dyed in deep colors.

Furthermore, from a cost standpoint, it is preferable to use inexpensive yarn as the pile yarn, which requires a large amount of yarn.

When the pile knitted fabric thus knitted is shirred by a conventional method, the pile is shirred and velour, that is, raised naps are formed. The knitted fabric with velor formed is a dyed ordinary knitted fabric.

By going through the finishing process, the ground yarn and velor yarn are dyed in similar dark and light colors or in different colors, resulting in a chambray velor knitted fabric having a chambray effect. For example, by dyeing the ground yarn in a dark color and the pile yarn in a different light color during the dyeing process, the dark color of the ground section can be visually recognized through the gaps in the velor, or the ground section can be seen through the velor yarn. The chambray effect is produced by the synergy of the composite colors of the threads.

A certain amount of chambray effect can be obtained by simply using synthetic fiber yarns with different dyeability for the ground yarn and the pile yarn that will eventually become velor yarn, but this alone is not sufficient and the chambray effect is further enhanced. In order to
．． It is necessary to organize it as a 3 to 2.5 times the range. By doing this, together with the directionality of the velor after shirring, the visible angle with respect to the fabric surface is 0° to 180°.
It is possible to obtain a chambray effect with continuous changes over the entire range up to . A preferable range of the yarn feeding ratio of the pile yarn to the ground yarn is 1.4 to 2.2 times.

In this way, there is no need to roughen the pile yarn used, and by simply inter-knitting the pile yarn and applying shirring, a velor knitted fabric that can obtain a chambray effect when dyed can be easily obtained at a low cost. be able to.

In the present invention, the ratio of the amount of pile yarn fed to the ground yarn fed simultaneously is set to 1.3 to 2.5 times for the following reason.

If the yarn feeding ratio of the pile yarn to the ground yarn is less than 1.3 times, miscuts may occur during the shirring process, and even if shirring is performed, the resulting velor knitted fabric is likely to have short pile length and low quality. Furthermore, the separation effect between the ground color and the hero color becomes extremely unclear, and the chambray effect is not fully exhibited. On the other hand, the yarn feeding ratio of pile yarn to ground yarn is 2.5! If it exceeds l@, the pile length will be too long and there will be a lot of shearing loss (which will be disadvantageous in terms of cost).

The present invention uses yarns with different dyeability as ground yarns and pile yarns, and simultaneously feeds these yarns like an iron ball, and also sets the yarn feeding ratio of the ground yarns and pile yarns within a specific range to produce pile knitted fabrics. Since the fabric is knitted and shirred, the ground part and the pile that becomes velor after shirring can be knitted at the same time.

It is possible to easily obtain a velor knitted fabric having a deep and elegant high chambray effect at a low cost without using conventional expensive threads or specially processed threads. be. Furthermore, a velor knitted fabric having a stable chambray effect can be obtained.

The present invention will be specifically explained below using examples.

A plain loop pile knitted fabric was knitted using a single pile circular knitting machine with a valley diameter of 30 inches and a needle density of 28 gauge. At this time, the yarn feeding amount ratio is ground yarn: pile yarn -
1: 1.75. In addition, the constituent threads are:
Processed yarn 75 of polyester cation dyeable yarn as ground yarn
Denier/24 filament.

Regular polyester irregular cross-section drawn yarn for pile yarn 7
Alternate knitting was performed using 5 denier/48 phyllanone I.

The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to pile shirring in a conventional manner at a weight ratio of 27% to the fabric to form a velor pile. Thereafter, the surface was treated in a continuous relaxer at 96°C for 2 minutes, and then dyed in a jet dyer at 125°C for 45 minutes. At this time, the processed yarn of the cationic dyeable yarn on the ground side was dyed black, and the yarn with irregular cross section of the velor example was dyed a medium green color.

As a result, a chambray velor knitted fabric with a deep chambray effect could be obtained.

Example 2 Using the same knitting machine as in Example 1, a knitted fabric with a similar structure was knitted. The yarn feeding ratio at this time was set to ground yarn: pile yarn -1: 1.82. In addition, the constituent yarns were interknitted using a drawn polyester cationic dyeable yarn of 75 denier/24 filaments as the ground yarn and a 70 denier/34 filament of nylon 6 drawn yarn with irregular cross section as the pile yarn.

The obtained fabric was subjected to pile shirring at a fabric weight ratio of 24%. After that, it was treated in a continuous relaxer at 95°C for 1.5 minutes, and then in a jet dyer at 120°C for 45 minutes.
Stained for minutes. At this time, the ground side was dark red.

The velor side was dyed medium blue, and as in Example 1, it was possible to obtain a deep and sophisticated jambre bellow knitted fabric.

Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) Synthetic fiber yarns with mutually different dyeability are fed simultaneously as a ground part forming yarn and a loop pile forming yarn, and the yarn feeding amount ratio according to the yarn length of the pile forming yarn to the ground part forming yarn is calculated. 2. A method for producing a chambray velor knitted fabric, which comprises alternating knitting at a ratio of 1.3 to 2.5 times and shirring the obtained pile fabric. (2) The manufacturing method according to claim 1, in which a yarn dyed in a dark color is used as the ground portion forming yarn, and a yarn dyed in a light color is used as the pile forming yarn.