JPH1046477A - Production of structure of fiber, spun by using solvent, having peach skin-like touch - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a woven or knitted fabric having soft and peach skin-like touch by carrying out rubbing processing to a woven or knit fabric formed by subjecting a cellulose fiber spun by using a solvent to enzymatic treatment and passing the treated cellulose fiber through spinning and weaving or knitting processes. SOLUTION: A staple of cellulose fiber spun by using a solvent, such as Tencel (R) is packed into Over maier system dyeing machine and the staple is subjected to enzymatic treatment with a cellulase enzyme at pH3.5-6.5, preferably 4.5-5.5 and 20-60 deg.C, preferably 50-60 deg.C and then subjected to deactivation treatment and dehydrated and oiled and dried. The treated staple is spun and woven or knitted to form a woven or knit fabric, which is then dyed with a jet winch dyeing machine and subjected to rubbing processing to provide the objective peach skin-like woven or knit fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for modifying a solvent-spun cellulose fiber, and more particularly, to a solvent-spun cellulose fiber structure having a soft texture and an improved peach skin tone and a small decrease in strength. The present invention relates to a method for obtaining a cellulosic fiber structure containing a solvent-spun cellulose fiber structure.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As cellulosic fibers, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, and regenerated fibers such as rayon and cupra have been known. Recycled fibers are produced by making cellulose of wood pulp chemically soluble in a compound derivative such as viscose rayon or copper ammonium rayon to make it soluble in an aqueous solvent and then wet spinning.

However, in recent years, the production process of recycled fiber has been reviewed from the viewpoint of environmental protection mainly in Europe, and as a result, a solvent-spun cellulose fiber capable of almost completely recovering the solvent used in the production has been developed. It has been developed.

[0004] The solvent-spun cellulose fiber is a special organic solvent such as N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide, N-oxide or the like, without chemically reacting the purified pulp with a derivative.
-Methylpipedilin-N-oxide and the like are dissolved under pressure and heating, and are subjected to wet spinning or dry spinning, and industrial production has been started very recently, but as those which are currently commercially used, "Tencel" (trade name) of Coatles (UK) and "Lentining Lyocell" (trade name) of Lenting (Austria) are known.
This solvent-spun cellulose fiber is also referred to as a refined cellulose fiber, and is unofficially classified with respect to the regenerated cellulose fiber.

[0005] The solvent-spun cellulose fiber represented by the above-mentioned Tencel is characterized by having a very strong fiber strength as compared with cotton yarn and rayon, and having a soft feel peculiar to rayon while having tension. The fiber strength at the time is strong unlike rayon, and it has excellent properties such as being hard to shrink when wet.

In order to obtain a soft and peach-skin texture in the solvent-spun cellulose fiber cloth, the surface of the fiber is fibrillated by kneading in the state of a woven or knitted fabric or a sewn product using these. In order to further decompose, swell and dissolve the fibrils, a method of hydrolyzing β-1,4 glucosidic bonds of fibers by treating with a treatment solution containing a cellulase enzyme to convert cellulose into glucose, a so-called nidom process. It was done. In particular, JP-A-2-216282
In the publication, the following three methods are described as a method for treating a cellulosic fiber fabric using a cellulase enzyme.

[0007] The first method is a method of impregnating a cloth with a cellulase solution that has been kept at an activation temperature in advance, or circulating the liquid in the impregnated state (circulation method). The second method is a method of impregnating a cloth with a cellulase solution, and then squeezing the cloth and passing the cloth through a temperature-controlled zone (continuous temperature control method). Third, a method of impregnating a cloth with a cellulase solution, squeezing the cloth, winding the cloth into a roll, keeping the temperature while preventing moisture evaporation, and allowing an enzyme reaction (wetting method).
It is.

However, since the solvent-spun cellulose fiber has a much higher fiber strength than cotton or rayon as described above, the solvent-spun cellulose fiber / natural cellulose fiber, such as Tencel / cotton or Tencel / rayon, is used. Alternatively, in the case where a fabric obtained by blending solvent-spun cellulose fibers / regenerated cellulose fibers or by cross-weaving or knitting is subjected to the cellulase enzyme treatment by the above-described method, processing such as the amount of the enzyme used, the treatment temperature, and the treatment time is adjusted to the solvent-spun cellulose fibers. When the conditions are set, there is a problem that natural cellulose fibers or regenerated cellulose fibers cause an excessive decrease in strength.

In other words, the solvent-spun cellulose fiber fabric requires a larger amount of the cellulase enzyme, a higher processing temperature, and a longer processing time than other cellulosic fiber fabrics. There was also a problem that the cost had to be increased.

[0010] Further, when a sewn product using a mixed fiber of solvent-spun cellulose fiber / natural cellulose fiber, or a mixed fiber of solvent-spun cellulose fiber / regenerated cellulose fiber, or cross-woven or cross-knitted, is subjected to cellulase enzyme treatment, Similarly, in addition to the problem of a decrease in the strength of the natural cellulose fiber or the regenerated cellulose fiber, when the sewn product using the cross-woven / cross-knitted fabric or the solvent-spun cellulose fiber alone is a fabric to be dyed, color unevenness occurs. Therefore, there is a problem that color matching of the final product is required.

However, the surface of the Tencel fabric that has been subjected to the kneading process and the cellulase enzyme treatment exhibits a peach skin-like texture, and has a firm support as a fashionable fiber material. Therefore, it can be said that a highly sensitive peach skin treatment is an essential condition for Tencel fibers at present. In this sense, there has been a demand for development of a more effective peach skin processing method for Tencel fiber.

[0012]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above points, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a solvent-spun cellulose fiber structure or a solvent-spun cellulose fiber having a soft feel, improved peach skin tone, and reduced strength. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for obtaining a cellulosic fiber structure including a cellulosic fiber structure.

[0013]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to provide a solvent-spun cellulose fiber raw cotton which has been subjected to a cellulase enzyme treatment and then subjected to a spinning step and a weaving or braiding step to convert the solvent-spun cellulose fiber raw cotton into a part of the raw material. Alternatively, it is achieved by a method for producing a solvent-spun cellulose fiber structure having a peach skin-like texture, which comprises producing a woven or knitted fabric used as a whole and kneading the woven or knitted fabric.

In the present invention, the raw cotton of the solvent-spun cellulose fiber is subjected to a cellulase enzyme treatment, only the fiber surface of the raw cotton is hydrolyzed, and then the woven or knitted fabric produced using the raw cotton is subjected to kneading. So that
Even in the case of woven or knitted fabrics using solvent-spun cellulose fibers and other cellulosic fibers, it is possible to prevent an excessive decrease in strength, and it is possible to prevent color unevenness by performing an enzyme treatment before dyeing. It becomes.

[0015]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
Examples of the cellulase enzyme used in the present invention include cellulase A3 (commercially available from Amano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., Aspergillus spp.),
Cellulase T-AP4 (commercially available from Amano Pharmaceutical Co., Trichoderma spp.), Mailase (commercially available from Meiji Seika Co., Ltd., Trichoderma spp.) Cellulase XP-425 (Nagase Sangyo, Trichoderma spp.), Cell crust (Novo Nordisk Commercial product, Trichoderma sp.), Entilon CM-10
(Commercially available from Rakuto Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., Trichoderma sp.)
Cellulase C (Amano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.,
Examples are Bacillus sp., Cellulase SP359 (commercially available from Novo Nordisk), and Cell Soft Plus L (commercially available from Novo Nordisk).

Such a cellulase enzyme is usually prepared as an aqueous solution, and the pH is adjusted to 3 to 6 using acetic acid, acetate or the like. In the case of alkaline cellulase, the pH is adjusted to 6 to 9 to obtain an aqueous cellulase enzyme solution.

Then, the raw cotton mass of the solvent-spun cellulose fiber is divided into a suitable size and filled into a dyeing tank of a filling type dyeing machine such as an Overmeyer type dyeing machine, and an aqueous solution of cellulase enzyme is pumped in the dyeing tank. And subject to cellulase enzyme treatment.

At this time, the optimum treatment temperature is slightly different depending on the kind of the cellulase enzyme, but is preferably 20 to 60 ° C, preferably 50 to 60 ° C. If the treatment temperature is lower than 20 ° C., the cellulase enzyme will not be activated, and if it is higher than 60 ° C., the reduction of the enzyme power will be accelerated, which is not economical. However, the reaction proceeds even at 50 ° C. or lower, but at a low rate, and there is no point in treating at a lower temperature unless there is a special reason. Further, the pH is 3.5 to 6.5, preferably 4.5 to 6.5.
It needs to be maintained at 5.5. At this time, an acetate buffer, a citrate buffer, and a phosphate buffer are appropriately used as the pH buffer. The treatment time varies depending on the desired texture and strength, and also depends on the cellulase enzyme concentration in the aqueous solution, the treatment temperature, and the like, but is usually about 20 minutes to 120 minutes.

In addition to the above-mentioned cellulase enzyme treatment method, the following method may be used.

First, an aqueous cellulase enzyme solution is applied to a raw cotton lump of solvent-spun cellulose fibers divided into a suitable size using a commonly known treatment liquid application method such as a spray method. 2 raw cotton lump
The continuous steam heat treatment is performed at 0 to 60C, preferably 50 to 60C. Here, as a device for performing a continuous steaming heat treatment, a round pillar manufactured by Shandong Iron Works Co., Ltd., a high Celent manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd., or the like is used. Then, the raw cotton mass of the solvent-spun cellulose fiber which has been subjected to the steam heat treatment after the application of the cellulase enzyme aqueous solution is washed with hot water, washed with water, and dried.

Here, since the cellulase enzyme is a high molecular weight substance having a molecular weight of about 60,000, it does not easily enter the interior of the fiber like a low molecular weight substance such as an acid.
Hydrolyzes 1,4 glycosidic bonds. Since the hydrolysis reaction occurs from the surface of the fiber and the hydrolysis action on the fiber is relatively mild, only the fiber surface is hydrolyzed without destroying the interior of the solvent-spun cellulose fiber and causing a decrease in strength. , The texture can be made flexible.

Thereafter, the above-mentioned solvent-spun cellulose fiber which has been subjected to the cellulase enzyme treatment is spun by a generally known spinning method, and the spun yarn consisting of the solvent-spun cellulose fiber alone or the solvent-spun cellulose fiber and another spun yarn. A woven or knitted fabric is produced using a spun yarn made of a cellulosic fiber, or using both a spun yarn of a solvent-spun cellulose fiber alone and a spun yarn of another cellulosic fiber alone.

Next, the woven or knitted fabric thus obtained is dyed by using a jet dyeing machine, a winch, a rotary washer or the like to give a kneading effect, so that a soft texture is obtained. However, the present invention is not limited to the above-described device, and any other device may be used as long as it does not cause destruction of the fiber structure, excessive wrinkles, or the like.

It is to be noted that kneading the tencel fiber in the state of raw cotton is not preferable because it damages the tissue so that subsequent spinning becomes impossible.

The woven or knitted fabric in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a woven or knitted fabric obtained by solvent-spun cellulose fibers alone, or a mixture of solvent-spun cellulose fibers and other cellulosic fibers, or a mixture of fibers. The number and density of the warp and weft constituting these woven or knitted fabrics are not particularly limited as long as the texture is not disturbed during processing.

In the above description, the cellulase enzymatic treatment of cellulosic fibers other than the solvent-spun cellulose fibers is not described in detail. Needless to say, it may be performed.

[0027]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example 1 Using a 180-liter liquid capacity Overmeyer-type dyeing machine, 6 kg of Tencel raw cotton (single fiber: 1.5 d / 38 mm length, Coatles, UK) was treated with a cellulase enzyme. The cellulase enzyme treatment was performed as cellulase at 2 g / l Cellsoft Plus L (manufactured by Novo Nordisk), treatment volume: 180 l, treatment temperature: 50 ° C., pH: 5.5, treatment time: 60 minutes. . Next, the treatment temperature was raised to 80 ° C., and the enzyme was inactivated for 15 minutes. Then, after that, dehydration was performed with a centrifugal dehydrator, and Pansofter-S (trade name:
Aqueous solution of Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.), and
It was dried after being attached by weight%.

Using the Tencel raw cotton thus treated with the cellulase enzyme, a Tencel spun yarn of 30 s / 1 and a twist number: 18.7 turns / inch is spun. : 114 cm, warp: 100 lines / inch, weft: 70 lines / inch.

Then, the above-mentioned woven fabric was dyed by a generally known dyeing method using a jet wins dyeing machine, and a rubbing effect was given.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 Tencel spun yarn of 30 s / 1, twist number: 18.7 turns / inch was spun from 6 kg of unprocessed raw Tencel cotton, and the Tencel spun yarn was used.
The warp was woven into a plain woven fabric of 100 / inch and the weft: 70 / inch.

The above-mentioned woven fabric was dyed by a commonly known dyeing method using a jet wins dyeing machine, and a rubbing effect was given.

Then, using a liquid jet dyeing machine, the cellulosic cellulase was used as the cellulase in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Manufactured by Novo Nordisk): 2 g / l, treatment liquid amount: 18
0 l, treatment temperature: 50 ° C., pH: 5.5, treatment time: 6
Cellulase enzyme treatment was performed at 0 minutes. Next, the treatment temperature was raised to 80 ° C., and the enzyme was inactivated for 15 minutes.

In Example 1 obtained as described above, a soft and peach skin-like texture was obtained, which was comparable to that of Comparative Example 1, and Comparative Example 1 which was treated with a cellulase enzyme after dyeing was used. Although some color unevenness was observed, in Example 1, almost no color unevenness was observed.

Example 2 3 kg of Tencel raw cotton and 3 K of US raw cotton which had been subjected to cellulase enzyme treatment under the same processing steps and processing conditions as in Example 1 above.
g as a raw material in a normal process at 30 s / 1, number of twists: 1
8.7 times / inch Tencel / cotton blended yarn is spun, and using the Tencel / cotton blended yarn, weaving width: 114 cm,
The warp was woven into a plain woven fabric of 100 / inch and the weft: 70 / inch.

The above-mentioned woven fabric was dyed by a generally known dyeing method using a jet wins dyeing machine, and a rubbing effect was given.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 Tencel spun yarn having a speed of 30 s / 1 and a twist number of 18.7 turns / inch was spun out using 3 kg of unprocessed raw Tencel cotton and 3 kg of American raw cotton. Weave width: 114cm, sutra: 100 / inch, weft: 70 /
Woven in inch plain fabric.

Then, the above-mentioned woven fabric is dyed by a generally known dyeing method using a jet wins dyeing machine and a rubbing effect is given, and then the woven fabric is compared with Comparative Example 1 using a liquid jet dyeing machine. Cellulase enzyme treatment was performed under the same processing steps and processing conditions.

The above-mentioned Example 2 thus obtained is
At the same time as having a soft and excellent peach skin-like texture, there was no color unevenness, and a high tear strength was exhibited as compared with Comparative Example 2, which proved to be suitable as a fabric for clothing.

Further, as in the above Examples 1 and 2, cellulase enzyme treatment was carried out in the state of raw Tencel cotton.
Spinning the Tencel raw cotton as a raw material, and further sewing the woven fabric obtained by weaving it, dyeing and kneading the fabric at the same time, and sewing the raw fabric, and raw Tencel raw cotton as a raw material,
Furthermore, when comparing the woven fabric obtained by weaving the fabric with dyeing and kneading and then sewing the sewn semi-finished product and processing it with the cellulase enzyme, the latter has a difference in color between the semi-finished products. On the other hand, the former showed almost no color difference.

[0041]

As described in detail above, the product obtained by the method of the present invention has a soft and peach skin-like texture, and is blended with other cellulosic fibers other than the solvent-spun cellulose fibers, or mixed or woven. Even in the case of mixed knitting, a woven or knitted fabric using the same has sufficient strength for use in clothing and the like, and furthermore does not cause color unevenness. Therefore, it is very useful for shirt blouse, casual use and the like.

Further, since setting of processing conditions is simplified,
The productivity can be improved, the cost can be reduced, and industrially inexpensive and stable production can be achieved.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A method of producing a woven or knitted fabric using the solvent-spun cellulose fiber raw cotton as a part or the whole of a raw material through a spinning step and a weaving or braiding step after subjecting the solvent-spun cellulose fiber raw cotton to cellulase enzyme treatment. A method for producing a solvent-spun cellulose fiber structure having a peach skin-like texture, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a kneading process.