JPH09228121A - Interlining and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a soft interlining having elasticity, useful for clothing, etc., hardly causing fastener phenomena, impregnating a fiber web consisting essentially of potentially crimpable fibers in which crimping is developed and fibers are entangled. SOLUTION: A uniform fiber web consisting essentially of potentially crimpable fibers is made to develop crimping by a method for heat treatment preferably in a limited state in thickness to provide the web with elasticity and strength. The web is impregnated with a small amount of a resin to give the objective interlining soft in handle and excellent in elasticity and rigidity in spite of possession of sufficient strength. The interlining hardly causes fastener phenomena and is excellent in handleability when the interlining is laminated to a wool core and processed.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an interlining material, particularly an elastic interlining material used for clothes and the like.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, an interlining in which fibers are bonded with a resin has been used. However, when an attempt is made to obtain a resin having sufficient strength, the amount of resin increases, and the resin is applied to a large number of fiber intersections. There is a drawback that the texture becomes hard because the coating is formed.

As a remedy to this drawback, interlinings joined by forming a number of point-like heat-sealed portions on a fibrous web have been widely used. Since the interlinings are connected by the dot-shaped heat-sealing portions, even if the interlining is thin, soft and strong one can be obtained. However, this interlining has no stretch or stiffness because the fibers are fixed between the dot-shaped heat-sealed parts, and it does not follow the movement of the body or the stretch of the outer material sufficiently. There was a problem when used.

On the other hand, a highly crimped fiber is used as the constituent fiber of the interlining having the above-mentioned point-like heat-sealed portions, and the spring effect by crimping the fibers between the point-like heat-sealed portions is used. It has been proposed that an interlining material that gives elasticity and has elasticity. However, in this interlining, since the raw material fibers have been crimped in advance, when the fiber web is formed by the card machine, the fibers are entangled with each other to form a nip (ball with entangled fibers), It was difficult to form a uniform fibrous web due to poor compatibility.

Therefore, the present inventors have examined the use of latently crimpable fibers in place of the above highly crimped fibers. Since the latently crimpable fiber has the property of increasing the number of crimps when heated, it can be handled with a small number of crimps at the time of forming the fibrous web, so that a homogeneous fibrous web can be formed and the crimps can be expressed after the fibrous web is formed. It was possible to give stretchability to the interlining. However, in the case of an interlining having a dot-like heat-sealed portion using latent crimpable fibers, when laminated with a hair core, etc., a fastener phenomenon occurs due to the entanglement of fibers with the hair core etc. As a result, the workability of the sewing work is deteriorated, and wrinkles are generated after the sewing due to the entanglement with the hair core.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art. It is composed of a homogeneous fiber web, is soft and stretchable, and causes a fastener phenomenon. An object is to provide a difficult interlining.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The above-mentioned problems consist of a fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers of the present invention,
The interlining material is characterized in that the crimp of the latently crimpable fiber is developed and the crimped fibers are intertwined with each other and impregnated with a resin.

Further, in the present invention, a fibrous web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers is heat-treated in a state in which the thickness is limited to develop crimps of the latently crimpable fibers, and then impregnated with a resin. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an interlining material.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The interlining of the present invention comprises a fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers, and the crimps of the latently crimpable fibers are expressed and the crimped fibers are expressed. Since they are entangled with each other, the elasticity and the strength due to the entanglement of fibers are imparted, and sufficient strength can be obtained by impregnating a small amount of resin. For this reason, even though the texture is soft, it has excellent elasticity and elasticity, and when it is used by laminating it with a hair core or the like, the fastener phenomenon does not easily occur and the handleability is excellent.

In the present invention, the fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers means a fibrous web containing at least 50% by weight of latently crimpable fibers. The fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers preferably contains 60% by weight or more of latently crimpable fibers, and may be 100% by weight of latently crimpable fibers.

The latently crimpable fiber used in the present invention is preferably a fiber which undergoes a large number of crimps, particularly coiled or spiral crimps, when heated. The latent crimpable fiber is one in which the number of crimps after expression is increased to at least twice the number of crimps at room temperature before expression when no external force is applied when the optimum crimp expression condition is selected. Desirably, for example, it is preferable that the number of crimps of 10 to 20 pieces / inch at room temperature increases to about 40 to 200 pieces / inch when the fibers are heated at 170 ° C. for 15 minutes without applying an external force.

As the latent crimpable fiber, a composite fiber in which two kinds of resins having different melting points are composited, or a fiber obtained by subjecting a part of the fiber to a specific heat history is used. As the conjugate fiber, for example, an eccentric core-sheath structure conjugate fiber or a side-by-side (bonding) type conjugate fiber is preferably used. As a combination of resins having different melting points, various synthetic resins such as polyester-low melting point polyester, polyamide-low melting point polyamide, polyester-low melting point polyamide, polyester-polypropylene, polypropylene-low melting point polypropylene, polypropylene-polyethylene are combined. Things can be used. In particular, the latently crimpable fiber composed of polyester-low melting point polyester is preferable because it has excellent heat resistance and stretchability after crimping. Also,
As a fiber obtained by subjecting a part of the fiber to a specific heat history, for example, a heat history is given by passing it while applying one side of a fiber made of a thermoplastic resin such as polyester, polyamide, or polyacrylic to a hot blade. Fiber etc. are used.

As the fibers other than the latently crimpable fibers, fibers which do not substantially increase the crimp by heating are used. For example, generally-used polyester fibers, nylon fibers, and polyolefin fibers are used. Fibers such as fibers, polyacrylic fibers, rayon fibers, cotton, and wool, and composite fibers that do not substantially increase the number of crimps by heating are used. Examples of such a composite fiber include a core-sheath composite fiber made of a combination of resins such as dyeable polyester-polyamide. Here, the term "fibers that do not substantially increase the number of crimps by heating" means that when the fibers are heated in a state where no external force is applied, even if the number of crimps is slightly increased by heating, The increase in number means less than 50% of the original number of crimps.

In the above-mentioned fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers, the crimps of the latently crimpable fibers are developed by heating and the fibers are entangled with each other as the crimps are developed. As the heating means, there are a dryer, a heating roll, and the like.In particular, the thickness of the fibrous web is changed by a heating means arranged at a constant interval such as passing a fibrous web between a pair of heating rolls having a predetermined interval. It is preferable to perform heat treatment in a restricted state. In this way, the crimp expression of the latently crimpable fibers in the fibrous web does not work in the direction of increasing the thickness, but the fibers work more intertwined, and the strength of a certain level is obtained without using other fiber bonding means. A fibrous web can be formed. The interval of the heating means is not particularly limited, but it is preferably narrower than the thickness of the fibrous web before being treated by the heating means, for example 0.1 to 1 m.
It is desirable that the distance be m.

After this, the fibrous web is impregnated with resin. The resin impregnation suppresses the fastener phenomenon which is considered to be caused by the fiber having a large number of coil-shaped or spiral-shaped crimps obtained by expressing the crimps of the latently crimpable fibers. The reason for this is not clear, but it is considered that this is because the resin coating is formed on the crimped portion of the fiber by impregnation with the resin and the entanglement with the fiber such as the hair core is prevented. As the resin to be impregnated, polyacrylic acid ester resin, polyurethane resin or the like is used. The resin is applied by impregnating the laminated fibrous web in solution, such as a resin emulsion, and drying. The impregnation of the resin does not necessarily reach the entire interlining, and it is sufficient that at least the lower surface side of the interlining is impregnated with the resin.

The resin adhesion amount (solids content amount) is such that the ratio to the fiber weight (fiber weight / resin weight) is 97 / 3-80.
It is desirable to be in the range of / 20. If the proportion of resin is less than this range, it becomes difficult to sufficiently suppress the fastener phenomenon, and if the proportion of resin is more than this range, the feel of the interlining material becomes hard. Particularly preferable fiber weight / resin weight ratio is 95/5 to 82.
/ 18.

In the interlining of the present invention, the fibers are highly entangled by expressing the crimp of the latently crimpable fiber, in particular by expressing the crimp while limiting the thickness between heating rolls. As described above, a small amount of resin can impart sufficient strength to the interlining material, and since the amount of resin used is small, the stretchability of the interlining material is not hindered and a soft texture can be realized.

The interlining material of the present invention is obtained by passing a fibrous web containing latently crimpable fibers as a main component between heating rolls in which at least one of the predetermined intervals is a heating embossing roll, thereby forming a point-like heat fusion. Crimping the latent crimpable fiber by forming the attachment portion and expressing the crimp of the latent crimpable fiber in a state where the thickness is limited, or by entanglement of the fibers by hydroentanglement and then by the heating means described above. May be expressed. In this way, by using it together with other fiber web bonding methods such as partial heat bonding and mechanical entanglement, the amount of resin to be impregnated can be reduced, and an interlining with a stronger and softer texture can be obtained. To be

Further, the interlining of the present invention may be reinforced with a thread if necessary. For the thread, for example, it is desirable that the knitting structure by the thread is combined with the interlining by performing chain stitch or Denbi stitch on the interlining using a Russell knitting machine or a single-thread chain stitch sewing machine. . In this way, the reinforcement with the thread can be performed without hindering the elasticity of the interlining. In particular, when chain stitching is applied in the vertical direction (production direction) of the interlining, good stretchability is obtained up to the point where the stitches of the chain stitch are fully stretched, and at the point where the stitch is fully stretched, the yarn does not stretch and the form of the interlining. It is good because it works to stabilize. It should be noted that it is preferable to use, as the thread, a thread that can be stretched, such as a thread processed by the thread method, because the followability to the elongation of the interlining is further improved.

The interlining of the present invention may be used as an adhesive interlining by adhering an adhesive resin. As the adhesive resin, a polyamide resin, a polyester resin, a polyolefin resin, or the like may be used alone or in combination. The adhesive resin is used by arranging it in a suitable pattern such as dots or stripes on the surface of the interlining, but especially when it is provided in dots, the interlining expands and contracts even after bonding with the outer material. It is good because it is difficult to inhibit sex. The adhesion amount of the adhesive resin is not particularly limited as it varies depending on the type of interlining material and the type of surface material to be adhered, but is preferably ^{2 to 20} g / m ² , more preferably 3
A range of up to 15 g / m ² is preferred. If the amount is less than the above range, the adhesive force will be insufficient, and if the amount is more than the above range, the texture after adhesion to the surface material or the like will be hard and the resin may exude.

[0021]

【Example】

Example 1 Polyester having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 51 mm /
Low melting point polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber 70% by weight,
Nylon fiber 3 with a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 47 mm
0% by weight of the fibrous web is passed between a pair of heating rolls (steel flat rolls) having a slit between rolls of 0.5 mm and a temperature of 160 ° C. to develop the crimp of the latent crimpable conjugate fiber. A fibrous web having a basis weight of 19 g / m ² was formed. The fibrous web is then impregnated with the acrylic ester resin emulsion solution and dried to give a basis weight of 20.
An interlining of g / m ² was obtained. The fiber weight / resin weight is 9
It was 5/5. A polyamide resin (melting point: 115 ° C.) was adhered to the interlining material in a dot shape at 6 g / m ² to obtain an adhesive interlining material. The number of dots attached was 8 / cm ² .

Example 2 Polyester having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 51 mm /
Low melting point polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber 70% by weight,
Nylon fiber 3 with a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 47 mm
0% by weight of the fibrous web is passed between a pair of heating rolls (steel flat rolls) having a slit between rolls of 0.5 mm and a temperature of 160 ° C. to develop the crimp of the latent crimpable conjugate fiber. A fibrous web having a basis weight of 19 g / m ² was formed. The fibrous web is then impregnated with the acrylic ester resin emulsion solution and dried to give a basis weight of 20.
An interlining of g / m ² was obtained. The fiber weight / resin weight is 9
It was 5/5. 2. A polyester denier by the thread method of 30 denier was used for the obtained interlining material by a Russell knitting machine (RS3MSU-V of Karlmayer).
A chain stitch of 5 courses / cm and 18 gauge was applied and reinforced with threads to obtain a composite interlining with a basis weight of 28 g / m ² . Polyamide resin (melting point 115
(° C) was applied in a dot shape at 7 g / m ² to obtain an adhesive interlining material. The number of dots deposited was 37 / cm ² .

Comparative Example 1 70% by weight of polyester fiber having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 47 mm, and a fineness of 1.2 denier and a fiber length of 38 mm
A 20 g / m @ 2 fiber web having a basis weight of 30% by weight of nylon / polyester core-sheath type composite fiber was impregnated with an acrylic ester resin emulsion solution and dried to prepare an interlining having a basis weight of 29 g / m @ 2. A polyamide resin (melting point: 115 ° C.) was applied to the interlining material in a dot shape at 10 g / m 2 to obtain an adhesive interlining material. The number of dots attached is 37 /
It was cm2.

Comparative Example 2 A unidirectional fiber web consisting of 100% by weight of polyester fiber having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 47 mm, and a polyester fiber 1 having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 47 mm
Laminated with a cross-woven fibrous web consisting of 00% by weight, temperature 1
By passing through a heating embossing roll at 90 ° C., an interlining having a basis weight of 25 g / m 2 having a large number of dot-like heat-sealed portions was obtained.
A polyamide resin (melting point: 115 ° C.) was applied to the interlining material in a dot shape at 10 g / m 2 to obtain an adhesive interlining material. The number of dots deposited was 37 / cm @ 2.

Comparative Example 3 Polyester having a fineness of 1.5 denier and a fiber length of 44 mm /
A fibrous web consisting of 100% by weight of the low-melting polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber was passed through a heating embossing roll at a temperature of 190 ° C. to obtain an interlining with a basis weight of 25 g / m 2 having a large number of dot-like heat-sealed parts. . A polyamide resin (melting point: 115 ° C.) was applied to the interlining material in a dot shape at 10 g / m 2 to obtain an adhesive interlining material. The number of dots attached is 37 / cm
Was 2.

When the number of crimps of the composite fiber used in each of the above Examples and Comparative Examples was measured for each fiber alone,
The number of crimps of the polyester / low melting point polyester latent crimpable conjugate fiber at room temperature (20 ° C.) is 12 / inch,
The number of crimps after heating at 170 ° C. for 15 minutes was 120 / inch.

Tensile / shear tester (KES-F manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) was used for the adhesive interlining of each of the above Examples and Comparative Examples.
B1), pure bending tester (KES manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. KES
-FB2) was used for evaluation and shown in Table 1. In Table 1, EMT is the tensile elongation (unit:%) of the interlining alone at a constant load (50 g / cm), and B is the bending rigidity per unit length of the composite cloth in which the adhesive interlining and the outer material are adhered. (unit:
gf · cm ² / cm), G is the shear rigidity per unit width of the composite cloth in which the adhesive interlining and the outer material are adhered (unit: gf /
cm · degree). Each of the above-mentioned composite cloths was provided with an adhesive interlining material having a basis weight of 170 g / m ^{2 and made} of wool tropical, and a Reliant press machine at a temperature of 13
A product obtained by pressing and adhering for 10 seconds under the conditions of 0 ° C. and a pressure of 3 kg / cm ² was used.

[0028]

[Table 1]

Further, in order to investigate the fastener phenomenon of the adhesive interlining, the fastener effect was measured by the following method and shown in Table 2. The fastener effect is that the adhesive interlining is adhered to the T / W tropical outer material and the adhesive interlining is placed on top, and an acrylic plate (length 15 cm, width 10 cm, weight 1
55 g) with a core (manufactured by Tokai Thermo Co., Ltd. product name: AL-
350) is placed so that the core contacts the interlining, and the acrylic plate is pulled in the horizontal direction, and the stress immediately after the acrylic plate starts to move (force required for pulling),
It was determined by measuring the average stress after the movement started.

[0030]

[Table 2]

As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, the interlinings of Examples 1 and 2 have elasticity and smaller bending rigidity and shearing rigidity than the interlinings of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and have a texture. Is soft, and the fastener phenomenon is less likely to occur as compared with the interlining of Comparative Example 3.

[0032]

The interlining of the present invention comprises a fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers, and the crimps of the latently crimpable fibers are developed and the crimped fibers are entangled with each other. However, since it is impregnated with resin, it has excellent elasticity and is elastic despite its soft texture. In addition, there is no concern that a fastener phenomenon will occur when it is used by laminating it with a hair core and the like, and is excellent in handleability.

In the interlining manufacturing method of the present invention, the crimp-developed fibers are highly entangled because the latent crimpable fibers are crimped by heat treatment with the thickness being restricted. Therefore, by only impregnating a small amount of resin, an interlining with sufficient strength can be obtained and the texture of the interlining can be made very soft.

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers, wherein the crimps of the latently crimpable fibers are expressed, and the crimped fibers are intertwined with each other, and impregnated with a resin. Interlining characterized by being 2. A fiber weight / resin weight ratio of 97/3 to 8
The interlining according to claim 1, wherein the interlining is 0/20. 3. The interlining according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a chain stitch is applied to the interlining. 4. A fiber web mainly composed of latently crimpable fibers is heat-treated in a state of having a limited thickness to develop crimps of the latently crimpable fibers, and then impregnated with a resin. Method of manufacturing interlining. 5. A fiber weight / resin weight ratio of 97/3 to 8
It is 0/20, The manufacturing method of the interlining of Claim 4 characterized by the above-mentioned. 6. The interlining according to claim 4, wherein the interlining is further subjected to a chain stitch.