JPH07324236A - False twist conjugate multifilament - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a false twist conjugate multifilament consisting of a combination of specific polyester multifilaments and suitable for woven and knitted fabrics having soft touch feeling with swelling and drying feeling and top dyed wool-like and melange-like appearance. CONSTITUTION:This false twist conjugate multifilament is obtained by applying false twist crimping and fluid interlacing treatment to a conjugate filament composed of thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament mixture having different fineness containing a filament having <=2.0 single yarn fineness and a cation dye-dyeable polyester multifilament. The multifilament has 20-200/m interlace pin count, preferably 10.0-70.0% thick and thin unevenness and has >=30.0% crimp extension ratio and substantially has not a core-sheath structure. Fabric obtained by weaving the filament and dyeing the product has the difference in a shade of color in fiber axial direction and the difference in hue in the cross-sectional direction and has topdyed wool-like appearance.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a false twist composite multifilament, and more specifically, to a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and swelling feeling, a rich dry feeling, and a finely frosted appearance with a top dyed wool tone. Which can be false twisted composite multifilament.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A false twisted yarn of chic and thin polyester multifilament is known as a material which gives a natural multicolored feeling to a polyester multifilament and gives it a bulge. However, when false twisting a filament having a stretched portion and an unstretched portion in the fiber axis direction, deterioration of the unstretched portion due to heat leads to deterioration of mechanical properties, and conditions such as weaving density and weight loss rate due to alkali treatment are required. It may be limited. Therefore, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 62-31094, by drawing an unstretched yarn composed of mixed filaments of different fineness under specific conditions, the filament having the minimum fineness is substantially uniform in the fiber axis direction and has a natural color tone. And thermal and mechanical stability. However, in this case, it is practically impossible to include different hues even though the shade of color can be expressed,
There is a limit to the tone that can be given.

There is a technique disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-80631 as a device capable of giving different hues and shades. According to this technique, a multifilament yarn A including an unstretched portion and a stretched portion in the fiber axis direction, and a thermoplastic filament having a characteristic that the multifilament yarn A is heterochromatic or different in color and has a substantially uniform characteristic in the fiber axis direction. By using the false twisted textured yarn including the drawn multifilament yarn B, the effect of shading in the fiber axis direction and the effect of different hue in the cross-sectional direction are provided. However, in this case, there are the following problems.
As described above, the multifilament yarn A including the unstretched portion and the stretched portion in the fiber axis direction has a problem that the mechanical properties are deteriorated by the heat during false twisting. A case in which a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament is used as the filament yarn B is considered. Generally, since the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament has low strength, the obtained false twist mixed fiber processed yarn also has low strength. There are cases where the conditions for weight reduction processing by weaving density and alkali treatment are limited.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and provides a post-process condition while providing a shade effect in the fiber axis direction and a different hue effect in the cross-sectional direction. The present invention provides a false twist composite multifilament that has sufficient strength to provide a wide degree of freedom, and can exhibit a soft, swelling and dry feeling rich texture effect.

[0005]

That is, the present invention comprises a composite multifilament of mixed fineness thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament,
A false twist composite multifilament characterized in that the false twist crimping process and the fluid entanglement process are applied to the composite multifilament, and the composite multifilament has substantially no core-sheath structure.

The present invention will be described in detail below. The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention is required to be configured to include different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament. The mixed fineness referred to in the present invention is defined as the difference between the filament having the maximum single fiber denier and the filament having the minimum single fiber denier of at least 1.0 denier. Further, it is preferable that the filaments are different from the monofilament denier, and at the same time, the degree of thick and fine spots is different between the filaments, and the smaller the monofilament denier is, the smaller or substantially the degree of thick and thin spots is. It is preferable that there is no thick spot. This is because when the false twisting process is performed, by including filaments with a small single fiber denier and a small degree of thick and thin spots, deterioration of the thick portion due to heat setting is suppressed and mechanical properties are satisfied. Is. Further, a filament having a small single fiber denier and a small degree of thick and fine unevenness is effective in finally exhibiting a soft feeling because the filament is hardly hardened even after false twisting.

On the other hand, a filament having a large single fiber denier and a large degree of thick and fine unevenness is included in order to give a difference in density in the fiber axis direction. Single filament denier of filaments with the smallest single fiber denier is less than 2.0 denier, and single fiber denier of filaments with the largest single fiber denier is 3.5.
It is preferably not less than denier. However, if filaments having a denier of less than 0.1 denier are included, fluffing after false twisting will increase, and if filaments having a denier of more than 10.0 denier are included, the coarse and hard feeling of the filament after false twisting will result in a textured feeling. It is not preferable because it leads to a coarse and hard feeling.

The different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament has 8.0% or more of thick and thin unevenness by the measuring method described later, with respect to the supply yarn before false twisting. More preferably 1
It is 0.0% or more and 70.0% or less. If it is less than 8.0%, the degree of thick and thin spots is too small and the difference in shade after dyeing in the fiber axis direction does not appear, so it is excluded from the present invention. However, 7
If it exceeds 0.0%, deterioration due to heat during false twisting becomes severe and mechanical properties are greatly deteriorated, which is not preferable. More preferably, it is 15.0% or more and 65.0% or less.

The polyethylene terephthalate referred to in the present invention is a polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate, but a component having no chemical affinity with a cationic dye such as an isophthalic acid component may be copolymerized. . or,
A matting agent such as titanium oxide, a fine pore forming agent such as kaolinite, an antistatic agent and the like may be added to some amount.

On the other hand, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament is mainly composed of alkylene terephthalate, but a component having a chemical affinity with the cationic dye such as 5-sodium isophthalic acid component is copolymerized. It must consist of a polymer. A matting agent, a fine pore forming agent, an antistatic agent and the like may be added to the polymer.

Generally, a false twisted yarn of thick and thin polyester multifilament or a false twisted yarn of a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament is
A dry feeling like spun yarn is easily obtained, but a more preferable dry feeling can be imparted by forming fine pores on the surface of the constituent filaments.

The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention comprises one or both of mixed fineness thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament and a fine pore-forming agent. It is preferable to use (1) to improve the dry feeling by giving fine pores to the filament surface after weight reduction processing by alkali treatment.
Among the fine pore forming agents, kaolinite is particularly preferable in view of optical characteristics and the like. The filament containing kaolinite suppresses glare and exhibits a pearly luster.

The different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments are substantially insoluble in cationic dyes, and when they are dyed with a disperse dye, they can have a shade effect in the fiber axis direction. Since the dyeable polyester multifilament is also dyeable with a cationic dye, it is possible to provide a hue difference with the mixed fineness thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament. The effect of shading in the fiber axis direction and the effect of different hues in the cross-section direction are combined to give a unique natural and smooth frosted appearance.

The cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament is preferably composed of filaments having substantially no fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction, but the fine unevenness is not so large as to cause a large thermal deterioration during false twisting. You may have. Also, the monofilament denier of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament is 0.1 denier or more 1
For example, it can be about 0.0 denier or less, and different fineness may be mixed. The filament cross-sectional shape of both multifilaments is multi-lobed, polygonal, hollow, flat, in addition to normal round cross-section.
Any other special modified cross section is applicable.

The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention is
The false twist crimping process and the fluid entanglement process must be performed. The false twist crimping process is applied to both the different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments and the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilaments. By performing the false twist crimping process, the crimp extension ratio of 25.0% or more by the measuring method described later improves the swelling feeling. More preferably 3
It is 0.0% or more.

The fluid entanglement treatment is carried out in order to improve the twisting property and the weaving / knitting property, and the entanglement degree by the measuring method described later is 1
It can be confirmed that the fluid entanglement treatment has been carried out when it is 0 or more / m. More preferably, it is not less than 20 pieces / m and not more than 200 pieces / m. If it is less than 10 pcs / m, it is difficult to obtain the effect of improving the twisting property and the weaving property, so it is excluded from the present invention. If it exceeds 200 m / m, the texture becomes coarse and hard, which is not preferable.

The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention is
It is preferable to have substantially no core-sheath structure. Having substantially no core-sheath structure means that the difference in yarn length is 3% or more between the different-fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament constituting the false twist composite multifilament. There is no definition. When the false twist composite multifilament has a core-sheath structure, the strength of the false twist composite multifilament is highly dependent on the strength of the shorter multifilament, and many of the false twist composite multifilaments contribute little to the strength. . As a result, the false twist composite multifilament has a low strength against the total denier, which is not preferable. Further, in the case of having a core-sheath structure, in order to satisfy the unwinding property from the wound package, it is unavoidable to have a fused portion, resulting in a poor swelling feeling. If the false twist heat fixing is carried out at a high temperature so that the false twist composite multifilament of the present invention has a fused portion, the thick and thin filament constituted is deteriorated undesirably.

The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention is
Different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twist crimped yarn and cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament false twisted crimped yarn are subjected to fluid entanglement treatment, and both are positioned side by side. A part or all of the filaments are entangled in the fiber axis direction and the cross-sectional direction.

Next, an example of the method for producing the false twist composite multifilament of the present invention will be described. As a supply system for the false twist crimping process, prepared are different-fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments and cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilaments. Among the different fineness mixing methods of different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene multifilament, the most rational is to melt and discharge polyethylene terephthalate from orifices having different pore sizes and then cool to obtain a different fineness mixed unstretched multifilament. The spinning speed can be 1500 to 3500 m / min. The filaments that make up the mixed undrawn multifilament yarn have the characteristic that the smaller the single fiber denier, the greater the birefringence. Such a non-stretched multifilament with a mixed fineness is stretched at a temperature not higher than the glass transition point and a low stretch ratio before and after the natural stretch ratio. By providing a friction resistor or the like in the drawing zone, it is possible to have thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction.

After stretching, the difference in monofilament denier between the filaments with the largest monofilament denier and the filaments with the smallest monofilament denier is:
It should be 1.0 denier or more. Since the undrawn filament having a smaller single fiber denier has a larger birefringence, the filament having a smaller single fiber denier after drawing has a smaller degree of thick and fine unevenness. However, the multifilament must have 8.0% or more thick and thin spots.

On the other hand, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament is prepared by melting a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing a component having a chemical affinity with a cationic dye such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component by a conventional method. It is obtained by spinning and appropriately stretching. A false twist crimping process is performed in a state where the two multifilaments are aligned, and a fluid entanglement process is performed. The fluid entanglement treatment may be performed both before and after the false twist crimping process, but it is preferable to perform the fluid entanglement treatment after the false twist crimping process since the entanglement tends to occur after the crimping.

The number of twists during false twist crimping is 2 when the denier of the composite multifilament after false twist crimping is D.
It can be exemplified by 0000 / D1 / 2 to 35000 / D1 / 2.
The false twist heat fixing heater temperature depends on the yarn speed, the heater structure, and the dimension, but is low from the viewpoint of suppressing the deterioration of the thick and thin filament, and the yarn speed is 100 m /
min, contact type 60 cm heater length, 160-20
An example is about 0 ° C. As the false-twisted body, a pin spindle type, a friction disc type, a cross belt type or the like can be preferably used. A so-called interlacer nozzle, a Taslan nozzle, or the like can be preferably used as the fluid entanglement treatment nozzle. After the false twist crimping process and the fluid entanglement process, it is necessary that the crimp elongation rate is 25.0% or more and the degree of entanglement is 10 pcs / m or more.

It is preferable that each of the above steps be carried out continuously from the viewpoint of streamlining the steps. For example, spinning of multifilaments of different fineness and drawing of thick and fine spots, spinning of polyester multifilaments capable of dyeing cationic dyes and drawing, drawing of either or both and false twist crimping, false twist crimping and fluid entanglement The treatment and the like can be easily and continuously performed.

The measuring method used in the present invention will be described below. Degree of entanglement Take out false twisted composite multifilament of appropriate length,
Apply a load of 1/1000 [g / den] to the lower end and hang it vertically. Then put an appropriate needle in the thread, lift it slowly, and move it until the load rises.
[Mm] is measured 20 times, the average value L [mm] is calculated from this, and calculated by the following formula. Entanglement degree [ke / m] = 1000 / (2L)

[0025] Using the Wooster / Even tester manufactured by Thick Spot Instrumentation Co., Ltd.,
Measure with a normal test. While selecting the slot by denier of multifilament and giving false twist,
2.5 cm / mi measured at a yarn speed of 50 m / min for 2 minutes
Have the chart drawn at a speed of n. At that time, adjust so that the average denier of the multifilament is drawn in the center of the chart. The obtained chart having a length of 5 cm is divided into two, and the maximum value and the minimum value of each divided area are read from the chart. When the maximum value and the minimum value of each area are H1, H2 and the minimum values are L1 and L2, the thick and thin spots are calculated by the following formula. Thick spots [%] = | H1 + H2 | / 2 + | L1 + L2 | /
Two

Crimping and Elongation Ratio A wrap reel having an appropriate frame circumference is used to make a 8-winding cassette of a sample under a load of 1/10 g / den. Immerse in boiling water for 5 minutes with no load. A sample is taken out of boiling water, a load of 2/10 g / den is applied in a wet state, and after 1 minute, the length acm of the mould is measured. Then, the load is removed, the water is lightly drained, and then dried in an oven at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes. Remove the yarn from the oven and let it cool for 1 hour.
A load of 2 / 1000g / den is applied and the length after 1 minute is bcm.
To measure. The measurement is repeated 5 times, and the average values A cm and B cm of 5 times acm and bcm are obtained. The crimp elongation rate is calculated according to the following equation. Crimp elongation rate [%] = [(A−B) / A] × 100

[0027]

[Examples] Specific examples will be described below. Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin chip was melted and discharged from a spinning nozzle having three different orifice diameters, and after cooling, wound at 2600 m / min. The unstretched multifilament was stretched and wound while being brought into contact with a pin-shaped frictional resistor heated to 100 ° C at a preheating temperature of 70 ° C and a stretching ratio of 1.6 times, and wound to obtain 40 denier / 36 filament, 40 denier / 24. Filament, 40 denier /
With 120 denier / 72 filaments mixed with 12 filaments, thick and thin multifilaments having a plaque of 35.5% were obtained.

On the other hand, a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dalle resin chip in which a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component was copolymerized was melt-spun and stretch-heat set to 120.
A denier / 72 filament cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament was wound up. The fine spots were 6.0% and consisted of filaments substantially uniform in the fiber axis direction. The thick and thin multifilament and the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament were set on a false twisting machine partially modified from LS-6 type false twisting machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. An interlacer nozzle was provided in the second stage heater zone of the false twisting machine. Both multifilaments are aligned and fed, and the false twist crimping process is performed at a yarn speed of 100 m / min, a twisting direction Z twist number of 1800 T / m, a heat setting heater temperature of 180 ° C., and a feed rate of + 1.0%, and subsequently. The interlace treatment was performed at an overfeed rate of + 3.0% and an interlacer air pressure of 2.0 kg / cm ² , and then wound.
The crimp extension ratio of the false twist composite multifilament is 50.0.
The degree of% entanglement was 121 pcs / m. The false twist composite multifilament was subjected to a real twist of Z700T / m, and was used for warp after the twist stop set to have a warp density of 94 yarns / inch and a weft density of 7
Two lines / inch were woven into a cashmere structure and dyed. Relaxing and presetting were performed by a conventional method, and alkali treatment was performed to reduce the weight by 15%. Then, it was dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye to obtain a dye-processed fabric. The dyed fabric has a unique natural, top dyed wool-like appearance with a difference in shade in the fiber axis direction of the constituent yarns and a hue difference in the cross-sectional direction without any problem in terms of strength. It was a preferable one having an excellent feeling.

Comparative Example 1 In the production of the thick and thin multifilament of Example 1, the spinning nozzles having the same orifice diameter 2 were all used.
Changed to 4 holes. The thick and thin multi-filament had a thick and thin spot of 52%. A false-twisted composite multifilament was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, but there was a problem of insufficient strength and the texture of the dyed fabric was felt to be hard.

Comparative Example 2 A composite multifilament was obtained by carrying out only fluid entanglement processing without performing false twist crimping processing in Example 1. The texture of the dyed fabric was poor in swelling.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 In Example 1, a false twist composite multifilament was obtained by winding the fluid without performing the fluid entanglement treatment. The unwindability from the cheese package was poor and thread breakage occurred in the rewinding process before the double twister was set. In addition, weavability was not good.

Comparative Example 4 In the false twist crimping process of Example 1, thick and thin multifilaments were excessively supplied by + 10.0% with respect to the cationic dye-dyeable multifilaments. The thread difference was 9.0%. The false twisted composite multifilament obtained had a poor unwinding property from the cheese package, and when the heater temperature was raised to 240 ° C. to improve the unwinding property, there were problems of insufficient strength and texture hardening.

Comparative Example 5 In the thick and thin multifilament production process of Example 1, the discharge amount and the drawing conditions were changed, the same denier / filament constitution as in Example 1 was used, and the thick and thin spots were substantially 6.6%. Moreover, a multifilament that is uniform in the fiber axis direction was obtained. A combination of the multifilament and the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament in Example 1,
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The dyed fabric was excellent in strength, but the difference in shade in the fiber axis direction of the constituent yarn was not observed, and the appearance quality was not satisfactory. It was also felt that the dry feeling was inferior to that of Example 1.

Example 2 The resin chip obtained from the thick and thin multifilament of Example 1 was changed to one containing 2.0% by weight of kaolinite fine particles. The dyed fabric was extremely preferable to Example 1 because it was more dry.

[0035]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION The false twist composite multifilament of the present invention is composed of different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments and cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilaments to obtain a shade effect in the fiber axis direction and a cross-sectional direction. Although it is possible to bring out the appearance quality of the top dyed wool tone, which also has the effect of different hues, it has excellent mechanical properties, a soft feeling, a swelling feeling,
It is a novel product that provides a dry feeling and a stable post-process passability. The false-twisted composite multifilament of the present invention is suitable for a wide range of applications such as thin to heavy clothing and daily-use related materials, and can be widely used.

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A composite multifilament composed of different fineness mixed thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments and cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilaments, wherein the composite multifilaments are subjected to false twist crimping processing and fluid entanglement processing. And a false twist composite multifilament characterized by having substantially no core-sheath structure. 2. The provisional article according to claim 1, wherein the different fineness composite thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament is configured so that at least single fiber denier includes filaments having a denier of 2.0 or less and filaments having a denier of 3.5 or more. Twisted composite multifilament. 3. The degree of entanglement by the fluid entanglement process is 20 / m.
The false twist composite multifilament according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the false twist composite multifilament is 200 / m or less. 4. The mixed yarn of different fineness thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament is 10.0.
4. The false twist composite multifilament according to any one of 1 to 3 having 1 to 3% of fine and fine unevenness. 5. The false twist composite multifilament according to claim 1, which has a crimp elongation of 30.0% or more. 6. One of a mixed fineness thick and thin polyethylene terephthalate multifilament and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament,
Alternatively, the false twist composite multifilament according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein both of them are filaments containing kaolinite.