JPH04102403A - Accessory with jewel and its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To remote a pedestal part partly hiding a jewel surface, increase jewel brilliance and prevent the jewel from falling off by brazing a part of the jewel surface directly to an accessory metal or to a part of the surface of a metal part connected to the accessory metal. CONSTITUTION:The surface of a ring 1 of gold is provided with a small hole 2, into which an end of a pavilion part 4 of brilliant cut diamond is inserted and fixed by brazing it to the inner face of the hole 2 with a brazing filler metal. In this case, it is desirable that a brazing filler metal including gold mainly and titanium by 10% is used in consideration of beauty, because this brazing metal has the same color as the ring 1. As for a pendant, a jewel is once brazed to a connecting metal fixture 11 and the hole 14 of the fixture 11 is connected to the chain of the pendant. This brings only a part of the surface of the jewel 3 into contact with the metal and not the other part so that both an incoming quanty of light and a reflecting quantity of light increase to produce much more brilliance.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to jeweled jewelry and a manufacturing method thereof.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, when making jeweled accessories such as pendants, earrings, pierced earrings, and brooches, there is a method for fixing the jewels on a support stand as shown in FIG. In other words, the jewelry 8 is placed on a pedestal 5 made of a precious metal material such as gold, silver, or platinum.
The claws 6 at the tips of three or more claw posts 7 extending from the base 5 are caulked and bent to the upper edge of the jewel 8, and the jewel 8 is fixed by being hooked on the claws. That is, the pedestal and the plurality of claws hold the jewelry in a packaged manner.

In this case, the top surface of the gemstone is open to the outside, or part of the side surface is covered by a claw extending from the pedestal, and the tip of the claw is visible even when viewed from the top, making it unsightly. It is mostly covered by the pedestal.

In other words, most of the surface of the jewel is covered by the metal pedestal.

A gemstone has a function and value as a gemstone because it reflects light and shines. However, conventional claw-type holding fittings have the drawbacks that the amount of light entering is limited by the holding fitting, and that the direction in which the brilliance of the gemstone can be viewed is limited to only the top or front side with respect to the pedestal. .

In addition, in the conventional nail fastening method, the nail extended from the pedestal is simply caulked to the upper edge of the jewel, and each support of the nail is extended upwards into the nest in a mechanically neutral state. It is impossible to apply force to prevent the claw from opening inward, where the jewel is located. This method simply involves hooking the upper edge of the gemstone with the tip of the nail.

For example, there is a method in which the nail support is formed narrowly inward, and the jewelry is pushed in and supported by the inward elasticity of the support.
In most cases, the pedestal is made of a precious metal such as gold, which has high malleability and ductility, and the pedestal opens when a jewel is pushed into it, so the elasticity of the support cannot be expected to hold the jewel in place.

In such a state, if the nail support slightly opens outward when the nail gets caught on clothing or the like, the nail support has little elasticity to return to its original position. Such openings at the tips of the nails are added up one after another, and furthermore, it is difficult to tell with the naked eye that the nails are open. Therefore, with conventional fixing methods, there is a high risk that the jewelry may fall off the pedestal and be lost.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention eliminates the pedestal portion that hides the surface of the jewel as described above, increases the brilliance of the jewel, and connects the jewel using a jewel connecting means with almost no risk of the jewel falling off. The object of the present invention is to provide an accessory that retains the same characteristics and a method for manufacturing the same.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present inventors have discovered that in order to minimize the bonding area for holding jewelry, a part of the surface of the jewelry is coated with the metal of the jewelry fitting, such as gold, silver, or platinum. As a result of intensive research on how to braze precious metals to jewelry, we have developed a method to firmly braze jewelry to jewelry parts without damaging the jewelry. , the present invention was accomplished.

There has never been an accessory in which a jewel is held by brazing a jewel and a metal like the present invention.

The present invention consists of the following inventions.

1. A jeweled accessory characterized by holding a jewel by brazing a part of the surface of the jewel directly to the metal of the accessory or by brazing a part of the surface of a metal part connected to the metal of the accessory.

2 Jewelry accessories listed in item 1 whose jewel is a diamond.

3. Bringing a part of the surface of the jewelry into contact with the metal surface of the accessory or the surface of the connecting metal via a brazing metal, creating a high vacuum, and then heating to melt or semi-melt the brazing material to fuse the jewelry and the metal surface, A method for producing jewelry with jewelry, characterized in that a connecting portion is formed by cooling and fixing the jewelry.

4. The method for producing jeweled jewelry according to item 3, wherein the high vacuum is 10-' Torr or less.

5. The method for producing jeweled jewelry according to item 3 or 4, wherein the brazing material is a substance containing a metal capable of forming carbide.

6. The method for manufacturing jeweled jewelry according to item 3.4 or 5, wherein the brazing material is a substance mainly made of metal to be brazed.

Accessories to which the present invention is applied include, in a narrow sense, accessories such as rings, pendants, earrings, brooches, bracelets, tie clips, and cufflinks, but are not limited thereto, and include, for example, watches and handbags. The concept also includes personal items such as lighters, glasses, and fountain pens that can be adorned with jewelry, stationery, etc., and there are no particular limitations as long as the items can utilize the technical idea of the present invention.

There are no particular restrictions on the type of jewelery jewelry to which the present invention is applied, and the present invention can be applied to diamonds, diamonds, turquoise, garnets, amethysts, aquamarines, emeralds, pearls, opals, topaz, etc. However, diamond is the most suitable because its brilliance is significantly amplified by increasing the amount of incident light.

In the present invention, the metal of the accessory or the metal of the connecting part to which the jewelry is directly brazed is not particularly limited, but metals commonly used for jewelry, particularly precious metals such as gold, silver, platinum, and alloys thereof, etc. can be used.

The accessories of the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to drawings of embodiments.

The manner in which the jewelry of the present invention is held is shown in FIG.
There are cases in which the jewelry is directly fixed to the metal jewelry as in the ring shown in FIG. 2, and cases in which the jewelry is indirectly connected via the connecting fitting 11 as in the case of the pendant shown in FIGS. 3 and WC4.

In the case of the ring of the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, a small hole 2 is provided on the surface of the gold ring l, and the tip of a brilliant-cut diamond pavilion portion 4 is inserted into this hole, and the tip and small hole 2 are connected to each other. The inner surface is fixed with brazing material using brazing material.

In this case, it is desirable from an aesthetic point of view to use a wax material that is mainly made of gold, which is the metal to be fixed, and contains 10% titanium, since the color of the wax material matches the color of the ring. .

Auxiliary metals added to brazing alloys to lower the melting point include:
Brazing is mainly made of metals that contain metals that have the property of bonding with carbon to form carbides, such as transition metals such as titanium, tantalum, niobium, and hafnium. desirable.

These brazing materials preferably contain about 5 to 10% by weight of the auxiliary metal.

In the embodiment of the pendant shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, the jewelry can be once brazed to the connecting metal fitting 11, and the hole 14 of the connecting metal fitting 11 can be connected to the chain of the pendant.

In any embodiment of the present invention, only a part of the surface of the gemstone is in contact with the metal, and the other surfaces are open, so that both the amount of incident light and the amount of reflected light are increased, and the shine is significantly increased.

Moreover, the strength of soldering is 20 to 25 in terms of area for gold soldering of 1 square millimeter, and the same tensile strength of 25 to 30 kg for silver soldering, which is the same for the pendant chain. Although its tensile strength varies depending on its thickness and structure, it is usually 2 to LO kg, which is 2 to 3 times higher than its maximum strength.

As described above, the strength of the brazing joint of the present invention is sufficient compared to the strength of the supporting metal fitting, and even when comparing the jewelry connecting part, the nail blade that limits the length of the nail that can be applied to the top surface of the jewelry It is clear that the tensile strength is greater than the formula.

Furthermore, the accessory of the present invention does not have a mechanism for falling off, such as the nail clipping method, which is supported by the elasticity of the weak nail post.
In terms of preventing jewelry from falling off, the jewelry of the present invention is much safer than the nail fastening method.

The contact area between the jewelry and the joining metal fittings of the jewelry of the present invention cannot be made very small from the point of view of work operation, but even in the case of large jewelry, it is not necessary to make it larger than 1 square millimeter, for example. The area ratio of the waxed finish decreases and the shine increases.

The material of the brazed parts of the present invention does not change at all even if left for many years at room temperature, which is much lower than the actual temperature.Since the soldered parts are hard and small jewels, the joint parts may become fatigued due to repeated loads. permanently fixed.

The method for manufacturing accessories of the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to drawings of embodiments.

Figures 3 and 4 are examples of pendants according to the present invention.

This example is a heart-shaped cut with a width of 6 rarrr.
.

A circular plane with a diameter of 1 mm is formed at the center of the upper surface of the diamond 13 with a height of 6 mm and a thickness of 2 mm, and a rod-shaped connecting fitting 11 made of 18-karat gold and having a connecting hole 14 at the tip is attached to this using a brazing metal 12. It is soldered.

In the brazing process of the present invention, a diamond 13 is fixedly held on a heating table 22 installed in a high vacuum container 21 as shown in FIG. A small amount of is added, a connecting fitting ii is placed on top of the connecting fitting ii, and this is fixed by a ball 23 inserted from the upper lid of the container lid 24. The ball 23 is attached to the center of the lid 24 so as to be rotatable and slidable while maintaining a highly airtight state.

The inside of this container 21 is 101 torr or less, preferably to-J
After creating a high vacuum of less than 100 yen, the carbon heating table 22 is heated with an induction heating device 25 until the brazing material melts, for example, using the heating table 22 as a carbon electrode.

The brazing material used in the manufacturing method of the present invention is desirably one that does not have a high vapor pressure at its melting point since the manufacturing method is performed in a high vacuum. Therefore,
A wax material with a too low melting point is undesirable because it will evaporate in a high vacuum, and a wax material whose melting point is too high is also undesirable because the gemstone may thermally decompose.

In this case, the S temperature is appropriately selected depending on the melting point, which varies depending on the type of brazing material, but for example, in the case of gold soldering, 1
Range of 100~1300°C, 800~ for silver solder
It can be appropriately selected within the range of 1000°C depending on the melting point of the brazing material.

The melting point of the brazing material can be selected in consideration of the decomposition temperature of the gemstone.

In the manufacturing method of the present invention, when the wax material on the jewelry is melted, weak pressure is applied to the pole 23 from above the lid 24 of the container to improve contact between the connecting fitting 11 and the diamond 13, and then heating is performed. After stopping and cooling the container, the bonded product of diamond 13 and connecting fitting 11 can be removed.

When using this as a pendant, a chain of the pendant or a ring fixed to the chain can be passed through the hole 14 at the top of the connecting fitting 11.

The connecting fitting 11 having a connecting portion such as the connecting hole 14 can be formed into various shapes, and jewelry can be attached to various accessories such as earrings and brooches through this fitting. can.

Further, the shape of the connecting fitting 11 is not limited to the above-mentioned shape, and for example, a shape as shown in FIG. 1O can be used.

Fig. 1O a shows a simple pole-shaped connecting fitting 11, and the pole portion can be fitted into a metal fitting of an accessory to firmly connect the connecting fitting 11. Also, the pole can be doubled to form a daruma shape, and the constricted part can be connected to the chain by fitting it into the chain.

Figure 1O shows a simple small ring 11 attached as a connecting fitting, and the hole in this ring can be used to connect it to a pendant, brooch, etc. Figure 10C shows a simple stick attached with wax. For example, it can be used for earrings, tie pins, etc.

In the case of the pendant shown in Figure 3, the light entering area is almost twice as large as that of the conventional nail fastening method where the back side is covered with a pedestal as shown in Figures 7 and 8, and moreover, the pendant can be rotated face down. Also has the advantage that the same diamond surface faces.

Also, depending on the cutting method, diamond 1
In some cases, it may be desired to face only the surface of No. 3, and in such a case, for example, the upper surface of a pedestal similar to a conventional pedestal as shown in the 5th cross-sectional view can be attached by penetrating the connecting fitting 11, and in this case, The connecting fitting can be fixed to the pedestal fitting, for example, by welding on the surface 15 in Figure 5, so the jewelry can be fixed without the nail touching the surface of the jewelry. The risk of falling off can be more completely prevented compared to the conventional method.

By the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is possible to directly braze a gemstone to a part of the metal surface of an accessory, as in the ring shown in FIG.

In the manufacturing method of the present invention, when the degree of high vacuum is reduced,
Carbonaceous gemstones such as diamonds are susceptible to oxidative deterioration, and the presence of trace amounts of oxygen causes a trace amount of oxidation of the brazing material, which reduces the strength of brazing.

Of course, the process may be carried out in an inert gas atmosphere such as argon, but since oxygen or nitrogen present as an impurity in argon may be harmful to the production method of the present invention, it is desirable to use a high vacuum. Furthermore, since heat from the heating table is not transferred to the container in a high vacuum, it is desirable to carry out the process in a high vacuum from the viewpoint of selection of the material of the container and thermal economy.

It is desirable to include transition metals capable of forming carbides, such as titanium, tantalum, niobium, and hafnium, in the brazing material used in the manufacturing method of the present invention, since this increases brazing strength.

The solder material can be selected from gold solder, silver solder, or platinum solder depending on the material of the metals to be joined.

Of course, it is not always necessary to make the brazing material match the material of the metal fittings, but it is desirable to match the material of the metal fittings in terms of the color of the bonded parts being the same and the bonding strength.

[Effects of the Invention] The accessory of the present invention has the advantage that there is no risk of it falling off because the connecting portion is firmly fixed by brazing.

What's more, it doesn't hang on the tips of your nails or on the surface of the gemstone, which is the case with traditional methods, and it looks good.It also has the advantage of not requiring a pedestal, and increasing the amount of light that enters the gemstone, increasing its brilliance. In addition, there is a great advantage that there are no restrictions on the direction in which jewelry can be viewed.

According to the manufacturing method of the present invention, the above jewelry can be easily manufactured.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a ring according to an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG.
The figure is a sectional view thereof, FIG. 3 is a plan view of a pendant according to another embodiment of the present invention, FIG. 4 is a longitudinal sectional view thereof, and FIG. 5 is a sectional view showing an example of its usage form. FIG. 6 is an explanatory cross-sectional view of an example of an apparatus for manufacturing accessories of the present invention, FIGS. 7 and 8 are a plan view and a cross-sectional view of a conventional pendant, and FIG. 9 is a cross-sectional view of a conventional pendant. FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional view showing the structure, and FIG. 10 is a side view showing an embodiment of the connecting fitting used in the present invention. The symbols in the diagram are l: ring, 2: small hole, 3: jewel, 4:
Pavilion part, 5: pedestal, 6: nail, 7; nail stand pillar, 8;
Jewelry, ll; Connecting fittings, 12; B'7 material, 13; Heart-shaped diamond, 14; Connecting hole, 21; Vacuum container, 22
; heating table; 23; bowl; 24; container lid; 25; heating device.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A jewelry-equipped device characterized in that the jewelry is fixed by brazing with a brazing material between a part of the surface of the jewelry and the metal surface of the jewelry or the surface of the metal parts connected to the jewelry. Accessories. 2. The jeweled accessory according to claim 1, wherein the jewel is a diamond. 3. A part of the surface of the jewelry and the metal surface of the jewelry or the surface of the connecting metal parts connected to the jewelry are brought into contact via a brazing material, a high vacuum is created, and the waxing material is melted or semi-melted by heating to separate the jewelry and the metal. A method for manufacturing jewelry with jewelry, characterized in that the surfaces are fused and then cooled and fixed to form a connecting part between the jewelry and the jewelry part. 4. The method for manufacturing jeweled jewelry according to claim 3, wherein the high vacuum is 10^-^4 torr or less. 5. The method for manufacturing a jeweled accessory according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the brazing material is a substance containing a metal capable of forming carbide. 6. The method for producing jeweled accessories according to claim 3, 4 or 5, wherein the brazing material is a substance mainly composed of the metal to be brazed.