JPH0359199B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPH0359199B2 JPH0359199B2 JP62221109A JP22110987A JPH0359199B2 JP H0359199 B2 JPH0359199 B2 JP H0359199B2 JP 62221109 A JP62221109 A JP 62221109A JP 22110987 A JP22110987 A JP 22110987A JP H0359199 B2 JPH0359199 B2 JP H0359199B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- tie
- color
- oshima
- cleaning process
- dark
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 34
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L dithionite(2-) Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003292 glue Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 14
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000004042 decolorization Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241000018646 Pinus brutia Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019646 color tone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 159000000014 iron salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009971 piece dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Coloring (AREA)
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
(a) 産業上の利用分野
この発明は、全体的に濃色地の大島紬に対する
絞染方法に関するものである。[Detailed Description of the Invention] (a) Industrial Application Field This invention relates to a tie-dyeing method for Oshima Tsumugi, which has a dark colored background as a whole.
(b) 従来の技術およびその問題点
周知のように、本場大島紬は、手工で紡いだ糸
を土産のシヤリンバイと称する植物の樹皮液と泥
中の鉄塩とで黒褐色に染めて、「かすり」あるい
は「しま」に織成した織物地である。この種の大
島紬は、織糸の泥染段階でシヤリンバイを媒染剤
として用いらるため、抜色することができず、織
成後のいわゆる後染による柄染処理がきわめて困
難なものであつた。従来、この種の大島紬につい
て、後染を希望する場合には、織元に抜色可能な
色を用いて織成してもらう方法が採られている。
この方法では織元から提供される織物に限定され
てしまい、好ましい織物を選択することができ
ず、しかも、自由に柄染めすることもできなかつ
た。(b) Conventional techniques and their problems As is well known, authentic Oshima Tsumugi is made by dyeing hand-spun thread blackish-brown with the bark sap of a souvenir plant called siyarimbai and iron salts in mud. Alternatively, it is a woven fabric woven into stripes. This type of Oshima Tsumugi uses siyarinbai as a mordant during the mud-dying stage of the weaving threads, making it impossible to remove the color and making it extremely difficult to dye the pattern by post-dying after weaving. Conventionally, for this type of Oshima Tsumugi, if piece dyeing is desired, the method is to ask the weaver to weave it using a color that can be removed.
This method is limited to the fabrics provided by the weaver, and it is not possible to select a preferred fabric, and furthermore, it is not possible to dye patterns freely.
さらに、これを絞染する場合、地色を炊染(反
対は引染)にする点において、地に折れおよびス
レが生じ、難物になるという欠点を有していた。
一方また、濃色地の大島紬は、引染によつて濃い
地色を染め(化学染料による)、柄付部分を抜色
して、該柄付部分を染めるのが一番簡単である。
しかしながら、この方法では、従来の大島紬自体
の良さが半減してしまうという難点を有してい
た。 Furthermore, when tie-dying this material, it has the disadvantage that folds and scratches occur on the ground color when the ground color is dyed (the opposite is dyed with a draw dye), making it a difficult product.
On the other hand, the easiest way to dye Oshima Tsumugi, which has a dark background, is to dye the base color darkly (using chemical dyes), remove the color from the patterned area, and then dye the patterned area.
However, this method had the disadvantage that the quality of the conventional Oshima Tsumugi itself was halved.
(c) 本発明の技術的課題
そこで、この発明は、本泥染の糸を用いて織成
した全体的に濃色地の本場大島紬に対し、絞染加
工処理を施し得るようになした大島紬における絞
染方法を提供し、大島紬の地組織と絞染による立
体的な柄部分とを併て持つた織物を提供するもの
である。(c) Technical Problems of the Present Invention Therefore, the present invention aims to create an Oshima Tsumugi that can be subjected to tie-dyeing processing on the authentic Oshima Tsumugi, which is woven using this mud-dyed thread and has a dark color overall. The present invention provides a tie-dyeing method, and provides a fabric having both the ground texture of Oshima Tsumugi and a three-dimensional patterned portion by tie-dyeing.
(d) 本発明の技術的手段
この発明は、上記する目的を達成するにあたつ
て、具体的には、全体的に濃色の大島紬に対し、
所望の柄付部に絞柄付けを行うための濃色大島紬
における絞染方法であつて、
織成された大島紬をむらなく洗浄するべく、中
性洗剤による一次洗浄工程、酢酸又はハイドロサ
ルフアイトによる二次洗浄工程を含む洗浄工程
と、
絞柄を施す絞柄付部分に予め設定される絞柄に
合わせてシヤリンバイを抜くためのアニノール
と、色を抜くためのデグロリン及び糊の混合によ
る抜色剤を塗布する工程と、
乾燥後、蒸し水洗により抜色剤を取り除く工程
と、
前記抜色剤を取り除いた絞柄付部に対して絞染
処理する工程とからなることを特徴とする濃色大
島紬における絞染方法である。(d) Technical Means of the Present Invention In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention specifically provides for Oshima Tsumugi, which has a dark color as a whole,
This is a tie-dyeing method for dark-colored Oshima Tsumugi to attach a tie pattern to the desired patterned area.In order to evenly wash the woven Oshima Tsumugi, it includes a primary washing process with a neutral detergent, and acetic acid or hydrosulfite. A cleaning process that includes a secondary cleaning process, and a color removal agent that is a mixture of aninol to remove the shearin by according to the shibori pattern that is preset on the part with the shibori pattern, and deglolin and glue to remove the color. A deep-colored Oshima pongee which is characterized by comprising a step of applying a color remover, a step of removing the color remover by steaming and washing after drying, and a step of performing a tie-dyeing treatment on the tie-patterned portion from which the color remover has been removed. This is the tie-dye method.
(e) 本発明の実施例
以下、この本発明になる濃色大島紬における絞
染方法について、各作業手順に従つて詳細に説明
する。(e) Examples of the present invention The tie-dye method for dark-colored Oshima Tsumugi according to the present invention will be described in detail below according to each work procedure.
この発明において、大島紬は、本泥染の染色を
用いて織成した全体的に濃色地の本場大島紬であ
る。この発明において、前記大島紬は、一次洗浄
工程、二次洗浄工程の順に洗浄処理される。前記
一次洗浄工程は、水温約15〜22℃程度における水
中において中性洗剤を用いて、出来るだけ長時間
洗浄する。この一次洗浄は、後段において行う抜
色処理時に、抜色むらを防止するためのものであ
る。この一次洗浄において、洗浄水んの水温を高
めることにより、作業時間の短縮を図れるが、大
島紬の地組織の保護の面において前記水温の範囲
が好ましい。前記一次洗浄後の二次洗浄は、酢酸
またはハイドロサルフアイトの水溶液中において
行われる。この二次洗浄は、前段における一次洗
浄の効果をより高めるためのもので、この段階に
おいて化学染料(泥染でない物)が抜かれる。次
いで、絞柄を施す絞柄付部分に予め設定される絞
柄に合わせて抜色剤を塗布する。この発明におい
て、前記抜色剤は、シヤリンバイを抜くためのア
ニノールと、色を抜くためのデグロリンと糊との
混合剤である。一般的な化学染料抜色剤では、何
ら変化しない。たとえば、アエンマツあるいはロ
ンガイツト等は、抜色効果が悪く、大島紬の種類
によつては濃色地のまま変化せず、後段の染色に
おける色調が限定されてしまう。次いで、十分に
乾燥させた後、蒸し水洗によつて前記抜色剤を取
り除く。前記抜色剤を取り除いた絞柄付部に対し
て絞染処理がなされる。前記絞染処理自体は、従
来の絞染技術の範囲において行うことができる。
すなわち、前記抜色剤を取り除いた絞柄付部分に
対して、絞用の型で柄を付け、手絞により疋田
絞、人目絞を行い、最後に桶絞により炊染にて柄
部分を染め、絞をほどいて仕上げられる。この発
明では、各工程において生地を傷めることがない
ので、抜色部分を普通の絞炊染によつても加工す
ることができる。また、生地の表面の色が良く抜
けている点において、黄茶色の上からでも十分に
染めることができる。 In this invention, Oshima Tsumugi is an authentic Oshima Tsumugi with an entirely dark colored background woven using genuine mud dyeing. In this invention, the Oshima pongee is washed in the order of a primary cleaning process and a secondary cleaning process. In the primary washing step, washing is performed in water at a temperature of about 15 to 22° C. using a neutral detergent for as long as possible. This primary cleaning is to prevent uneven color removal during color removal processing performed in the subsequent stage. In this primary washing, the working time can be shortened by increasing the water temperature of the washing water, but from the viewpoint of protecting the ground texture of Oshima Tsumugi, the above water temperature range is preferable. The secondary cleaning after the primary cleaning is performed in an aqueous solution of acetic acid or hydrosulfite. This secondary washing is to further enhance the effect of the previous primary washing, and chemical dyes (not mud dyed) are removed at this stage. Next, a color remover is applied to the part with the shibori pattern to which the shibori pattern is to be applied in accordance with the preset shibori pattern. In the present invention, the color removing agent is a mixture of aninol for removing the shearing binder, degrolin for removing the color, and glue. General chemical dye removers do not cause any change. For example, pine pine or longite has a poor color removal effect, and depending on the type of Oshima Tsumugi, the dark color remains unchanged, limiting the color tones in the subsequent dyeing process. Next, after sufficiently drying, the color remover is removed by steam washing. A tie-dyeing process is performed on the tie-patterned portion from which the color remover has been removed. The tie-dyeing process itself can be performed within the range of conventional tie-dyeing techniques.
In other words, a handle is attached to the part with the shibori handle from which the color remover has been removed, a handle is attached using a shibori die, Hikita-shibori and Hitoshi-shibori are performed by hand, and finally the handle is dyed using a rice dyeing method using an oke-shibori. , it can be finished by untying it. In this invention, since the fabric is not damaged in each step, the colorless areas can be processed by ordinary shibori dyeing. In addition, since the color of the surface of the fabric is well drawn, it can be dyed even from yellow-brown.
(f) 本発明の効果
以上の構成になるこの発明の濃色大島紬におけ
る絞染め方法によれば、従来後染が不可能であつ
た濃色地の本場大島紬に対して、絞染加工処理を
施すことができ、それによつて、大島紬の美しい
濃色地織部分と、絞染による立体的な柄部分とを
併せ持つた、きわめて特異でかつ装飾変化性に富
んだ斬進な織物を提供することができる。(f) Effects of the present invention According to the tie-dyeing method for dark-colored Oshima pongee of the present invention configured as described above, tie-dye processing can be applied to the dark-colored authentic Oshima pongee, which was conventionally impossible to piece-dye. To provide an innovative textile that is extremely unique and rich in decorative variation, having both the beautiful dark-colored ground weave part of Oshima Tsumugi and the three-dimensional pattern part by tie-dyeing. I can do it.
さらに、この発明の濃色大島紬における絞染め
方法は、産地独特の異なる大島紬に対して変更な
く極めて効果的に適用することができる。すなわ
ち、大島紬は、それぞれ特別な染により糸が染め
られており、この糸で織つた独特のものであり、
独特の柄及び色の深味とあでやかさを持ち、極め
て色の取れにくいものとして提供される。この発
明では、この大島紬の織物地風を生かし、その上
にあでやかな絞り部分染めを行い、上記するよう
な産地独特の大島紬に対して、いままでにない新
しい感覚の製品として提供できる。 Furthermore, the tie-dyeing method for dark-colored Oshima pongee of the present invention can be extremely effectively applied to different Oshima pongee products unique to the production area without modification. In other words, each thread of Oshima Tsumugi is dyed with a special dye, and it is a unique item woven with this thread.
It has a unique pattern and deep and attractive color, and is extremely difficult to remove. In this invention, we make use of the texture of Oshima Tsumugi, and perform attractive partial dyeing on it, making it possible to provide a product with an unprecedented new feel for Oshima Tsumugi, which is unique to the production area as described above.
Claims (1)
に絞柄付けを行うための濃色大島紬における絞染
方法であつて、 織成された大島紬をむらなく洗浄するべく、中
性洗剤による一次洗浄工程、酢酸又はハイドロサ
ルフアイトによる二次洗浄工程を含む洗浄工程
と、 絞柄を施す絞柄付部分に予め設定される絞柄に
合わせてシヤリンバイを抜くためのアニノール
と、色を抜くためのデグロリン及び糊の混合によ
る抜色剤を塗布する工程と、 乾燥後、蒸し水洗により抜色剤を取り除く工程
と、 前記抜色剤を取り除いた絞柄付部に対して絞染
処理する工程とからなることを特徴とする濃色大
島紬における絞染方法。[Scope of Claims] 1. A tie-dyeing method for dark-colored Oshima Tsumugi for attaching a tie pattern to a desired patterned area on the overall dark-colored Oshima Tsumugi, which method cleans the woven Oshima Tsumugi evenly. The cleaning process includes a primary cleaning process using a neutral detergent, a secondary cleaning process using acetic acid or hydrosulfite, and a cleaning process that includes a first cleaning process using a neutral detergent, a secondary cleaning process using acetic acid or hydrosulfite, and a process for pulling out the shear ring by matching the preset diaphragm pattern to the area with the diaphragm pattern. A process of applying a color remover by mixing aninol, deglolin and glue to remove the color, a process of removing the color remover by washing with steamed water after drying, and a process of applying the color remover to the part with the squeeze handle from which the color remover has been removed. A tie-dyeing method for dark-colored Oshima Tsumugi, characterized by a process of tie-dying.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP62221109A JPS6468583A (en) | 1987-09-02 | 1987-09-02 | Shiboric dyeing method in dark color oshima tsumugi |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP62221109A JPS6468583A (en) | 1987-09-02 | 1987-09-02 | Shiboric dyeing method in dark color oshima tsumugi |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS6468583A JPS6468583A (en) | 1989-03-14 |
JPH0359199B2 true JPH0359199B2 (en) | 1991-09-09 |
Family
ID=16761622
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP62221109A Granted JPS6468583A (en) | 1987-09-02 | 1987-09-02 | Shiboric dyeing method in dark color oshima tsumugi |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS6468583A (en) |
-
1987
- 1987-09-02 JP JP62221109A patent/JPS6468583A/en active Granted
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS6468583A (en) | 1989-03-14 |
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