JPH0348167Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed explanation of the idea]

Industrial Application Field This invention relates to an adhesive interlining for the front body of a jacket sewn with adhesive.In particular, a single piece of adhesive interlining has different stiffness and bulk in areas such as the shoulders, chest, and hem. The present invention relates to an adhesive interlining for a front body comprising the following. Conventional technology In the conventional adhesive sewing of jackets, adhesive interlining, which has a soft texture throughout, is adhered to the front body part, and then a piece of adhesive is placed on top of it to maintain the three-dimensional shape of the chest, maintain the shape of the shoulders, and prevent slippage. The front body of the jacket is made by wrapping a laminate, that is, a made hair core, on the adhesive interlining and sewing it together with a shoulder bath core 2 containing a felt-like material 1 and a breast enlargement core 3 (see Fig. 2). ). This method has problems in that the hair core setting operation for sewing the internal hair cores is very complicated and takes a long time, and there are many variations in quality between workers and high material costs.
On the other hand, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-23045, in order to maintain the rigidity of the shoulders and chest, which is one of the characteristics of the above-mentioned method with a single adhesive interlining, as shown in Fig. 8, A method of adhesive interlining has been proposed in which the stiffness of the hem is gradually increased from the chest to the shoulders. This method can be said to be close to the bath core when looking only at the stiffness of the chest and shoulders, but the chest darts become too stiff than necessary, making it impossible to create a mellow silhouette that matches the human body shape.
At the shoulders, where the rigidity is greatest, maintaining shape is overemphasized, and the shoulder area of the jacket does not follow the movement of the arms and shoulders when worn, making the jacket difficult to wear. Problems to be solved by the invention The purpose of the invention is to eliminate all of the above-mentioned drawbacks, and to simplify the work of making the front body of the jacket, equalize quality, and reduce processing costs, and to improve the production of the chest and waist areas. To provide an interlining material for the front body of a jacket which can be finished with a mellow silhouette and retain its shape, can maintain its shape so that it does not slip off at the shoulders, and can feel easy to wear. Means for Solving the Problems The present invention is an adhesive interlining for the front body of a jacket, in which the above-mentioned parts of the interlining consisting of shoulder part A, chest part B, chest dart part C, waist part D, and hem part E have rigidity. The chest B and waist part D located above and below the chest dart part C have greater rigidity and bulk than other parts, and are constructed with the chest B being the largest. The adhesive interlining for the front body is characterized by: The present invention will be explained in detail below. The adhesive interlining for the front body of this invention is shoulder area A, chest area B,
It is a cloth-like article composed of a chest dart part C, a waist part D, and a hem part E, and if the relationship between the rigidity and bulkiness of each part is shown in detail, the shoulder part A, the chest dart part C, and the hem part are Chest area B and waist area D are larger than area E. Chest B is the part that requires the most rigidity and bulk for the purpose of maintaining the shape of the human bust.
The waist portion D is a portion that requires rigidity in order to maintain the shape of the waist when creating a cylindrical human body shape in the jacket. Shoulder A is the part of the front body of the jacket that has the most complex shape, and has the flexibility to follow the movements of the shoulders and arms when worn, as well as the ability to retain its shape and maintain its shape when worn. It is necessary to have shape retention to create a 3D image of the human body, but there is a conflict between the function of giving flexibility when worn and the shape retention function of creating a 3D image of the human body. In order to maintain shape, a non-adhesive shoulder hair core 4 was sewn onto the front body of the jacket near the shoulders of the adhesive interlining for the front body of the present invention, as shown in Figure 4. However, the stiffness and bulk of the shoulder part A should be smaller than the chest part B, and preferably as soft as the hem part E, in order to provide flexibility when worn. The shape of the non-adhesive shoulder hair core can be designed as appropriate depending on the desired silhouette of the jacket. Also, when ironing the chest darts in the sewing process for making the front body, if the darts stop at part 5 are too hard, the seam allowance will be too hard and it will be difficult to create a mellow silhouette, so the chest dart part C should be placed in the chest part B. , the rigidity and bulkiness of the waist part D must be smaller than that of the waist part D. Furthermore, the hem F is provided to keep the texture of the outer fabric as intact as possible and to prevent the hem of the jacket from slipping, and has the lowest rigidity and bulkiness among the other parts. On the other hand, if the positional relationship of each part is shown in detail in Figure 1, the shoulder part A has low rigidity and feels easy to wear, and the chest part B exhibits shape preservation. From this point of view, the boundary between the shoulder A and the chest B is preferably around the center between the end point 6 of the shoulder line and the bottom 7 of the armhole. The chest dart part C aims to make the dart stop seam seam part cylindrical and three-dimensional, and does not need to be very wide, preferably having a width of 5 cm or less around the chest dart stop point 5. The waist part D exhibits rigidity and bulkiness next to the chest part B, and plays the role of tensioning the lapel around the lapel turning stop position 8, but when it extends to the waist pocket position, it becomes too stiff as a whole. Therefore, it is preferable that the lower part of the waist part D is 2 cm below the lapel end point 8.
The boundaries between each part may be clearly distinguishable with the naked eye or touch, but when considering the possibility of damage to the outer fabric due to pressure applied when adhering the interlining at the boundaries, it is preferable to It is better to have multiple levels of rigidity and bulk locally. In particular, the hem E does not need to have one type of rigidity and bulkiness, and it is preferable that it has multiple parts that gradually become smaller toward the hem of the jacket. Furthermore, if the manufacturing method of the interlining material of the present invention is shown, the types of base fabrics include woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics,
The woven fabrics used are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, and the knitted fabrics used are circular knitted fabric, flat knitted fabric, ratchet fabric, tricot fabric, weft inserted warp knitted fabric, and warp inserted knitted fabric. The direction in which the texture of each part is changed may be the warp direction (FIG. 5) or the weft direction (FIG. 6) with respect to the base fabric forming direction 9.
In addition, it is preferable for the adhesive interlining to conform to the outer material after bonding and to follow the movement of the wool outer material, which is necessary for a wide range of outer material application. % or more is better, and the effect is particularly exhibited in the shoulder area A. On the other hand, methods for expressing differences in the texture of each part include changing the thickness of the yarn used, changing the single yarn denier of the raw cotton used, and changing the fiber material of the raw cotton used such as cotton, ester, acrylic, etc. There are two methods: one method is to cure the yarn used, and the other is to change it by hardening the yarn used. The yarn type is 1/140 to 1/4 Nm, the single yarn denier of the raw cotton used is 0.2 denier to 30 denier, and the fiber materials are cotton, nylon, rayon, acetate, polyester, acrylic, hemp, and blends thereof. used. Furthermore, the interlining fabric of the present invention can be raised on one or both sides of the interlining base fabric in order to provide bulkiness and flexibility as a whole. The adhesive may be applied to the interlining base fabric by a conventional dot method, sinter method, dash method, or the like. In the case of the dot coating method, the number of dots may be the same for each part, but preferably the number of dots is partially lower in the chest B and waist part D in order to suppress the hardness caused by the adhesive. Then, the effect of the present invention can be further enhanced. Example Using a 20-gauge 3-reed weft insertion warp knitting machine, nylon-6,6 40 denier was used as the ground texture warp, and acrylic spun yarn 1/64 mm was inserted as the weft. The relationship between the rigidity and bulkiness of each part of the structure was determined by changing the thickness of the warp threads and arranging them as shown in Table 1.Front 1-3/2-0,
A warp knitted fabric with warp yarn insertion was knitted with a middle structure of 2-2/2-0 and a back structure of 1-1/0-0.

[Table] After the knitted fabric was scoured or dyed, one side was raised using a cloth raising machine, and the other side was coated with a polyamide resin in dots to obtain an adhesive interlining for the front body. Table 2 shows the results of measuring the bending resistance and thickness of the interlining and the fabric bonded to the outer wool gear bar using the cantilever method (JISL-1079A method). The bonding conditions for the adhesive interlining for the front body of this invention and the outer wool gear bar are bonding temperature: 140℃, bonding press pressure: 300℃.
g/cm ² bonding time was 14 seconds and the bonding press was a flat plate type.

【table】

[Front] Further, this interlining material was cut into the shape of the front body as shown in Fig. 3, and then adhered to the outer material wool gear bar under the above conditions, and then the outer garment was cut into the fourth layer using a regular shoulder bath wool interlining.
When sewn with the pattern shown in the figure, the silhouette is no inferior to the conventional adhesive sewing as shown in Fig. 2, and it streamlines the work in the extensive sewing process and stabilizes the quality. It became possible. Effects of the invention This invention solves the troubles in the sewing process caused by the process of setting the hair core, which was present in the conventional adhesive sewing method of adhering the soft-textured front body interlining and sewing the chest thickening interlining and shoulder interlining. This solves the problem of uneven quality and variations in quality between workers, while the conventional multi-layered interlining jacket has a texture that gradually becomes softer from the shoulder to the hem. This solution all at once solved the problems of poor wearing comfort due to shoulder fixation, flattening of the shoulders, awkwardness of the curve around the chest dart stop, and difficulty in ironing. By using this product, it is possible to form the shoulders that match the movements of the human body, making it easy to wear, and the chest area has a mellow, beautiful curve that creates a cylindrical three-dimensional silhouette that fits the human body. It provides a jacket to hold.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows an example of the use of the adhesive interlining for the front body of the present invention.
Figure 2 shows an example of using conventional adhesive sewing to sew chest and shoulder bus cores to a single piece of adhesive interlining. Figure 3 shows an example of the use of conventional adhesive interlining whose texture changes in stages. FIG. 4 shows a state in which the adhesive interlining for the front body of the present invention is adhered to the front body, and then the shoulder bus liner 4 is sewn. Figures 5 and 6 show the fabric of the adhesive interlining for the front body of the present invention and the state in which the front body is molded. FIG. 7 shows the relationship between the bending resistance and the bending resistance of each part B in the example. FIG. 8 shows an example of the relationship between bending resistance of each part of the conventional adhesive interlining shown in FIG. 3.

Claims (1)

[Scope of utility model registration request] In the adhesive interlining for the front body of a jacket, the above-mentioned parts of the interlining consisting of the shoulder part A, the chest part B, the chest dart part C, the waist part D, and the hem part E are knitted with rigidity and bulkiness, An adhesive interlining for a front body, characterized in that the chest B and waist part D located above and below the chest dart part C have greater rigidity and bulkiness than other parts, and are constructed with the chest B being the largest. .