JPH0237800B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] <Industrial Application Field> The present invention relates to a method and apparatus for forming special-shaped parts such as collars, hem angles, and flaps of clothes, mainly in garment factories, and a special method used for this work. This relates to a molded gauge cover that allows these parts to be easily molded by machine work.

<Conventional technology> Conventionally, in order to form the tip collar and hem angle of clothes,
Workers formed the pieces by intuition using perforation and ironing.

In addition, instead of using this method, in the case of a flap that is not sharply pointed, a method is also used in which the shape is adjusted using a forming gauge and then molded using a press.

<Problems to be solved by the invention> Therefore, since shaping is done by perforation and ironing, it takes time and
It required skill.

In addition, when forming by pressing using a forming gauge, it is easier than using the above-mentioned guesswork, but although wool is mainly used for the outer material of suit fabrics, the non-wool lining side stretches, so wool The outer material used was stretched by the press, resulting in a defect that caused it to warp. On the other hand, when both the outer material and the lining are made of wool, the fibers stretch at different rates in the vertical and horizontal directions, causing them to stretch in one direction and lose their shape.

<Means for solving the problem> In other words, it is preferable to use a press machine because it improves workability by several steps compared to conventional manual work, but it is also preferable to use a press machine to prevent deformation and elongation caused by the press, which may cause the product to lose its shape. We need to think of ways to prevent this from happening.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a method for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, a gauge cover for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, and an apparatus for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes. , a collar of clothing that is not easily deformed by steam, has breathability and heat resistance, conforms to special shapes such as the collar of clothing, hem angles, etc., and is formed into a cap shape so that it can be placed over the special shaped parts; A molding gauge for the hem angle, etc. A molding gauge for the sword tip collar and a molding gauge for the hem angle, to which a cover can be attached and detached, are provided so as to be movable back and forth and rotatably, and a molding gauge for the hem corner and the hem angle molding gauge are provided. A lower press trowel with a wider surface area than the molding gauge cover and an upper press trowel that can move up and down are installed in a part of the movement course of the forming gauge. After the shaped parts are sewn, molded gauges that match these shapes are inserted between the outer fabric and the lining to provide the shape of these special shaped parts, and are further coated with elastic and heat resistant material that is resistant to deformation by steam. Then, the molded gauge is pulled out and the specially shaped part sewn onto the molded gauge cover is pressed while applying steam to form the molded gauge. The shape is adjusted using a forming gauge, and a forming gauge cover is used to prevent deformation during pressing so that the forming operation can be carried out.

<Example> Next, the molded gauge cover according to the present invention will be explained based on FIG. This is for the tip of the collar. The material of the molded gauge cover 1 may be any material as long as it is not easily deformed by steam and has breathability and heat resistance.For example, it may be made of cloth such as cotton or a synthetic resin board with many ventilation holes. You can use the ones that have been prepared. And molded gauge cover 1
An opening a is formed on one side of the front surface material 2 and back surface material 3 so that it can be covered over the specially shaped part, and the side portions 4 are glued or sewn together by an appropriate method so that the other parts form a cap shape. be.

Next, an example of a device for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes according to the present invention, that is, a press machine 5 will be described with reference to FIGS. 1 and 2. 6 is an upper press trowel connected to the steam device, and 7 is a lower press trowel connected to the vacuum device. The upper press trowel 6 is arranged to be movable up and down by an air cylinder 8. Reference numeral 9 denotes a molding gauge for the tip collar, and numeral 10 denotes a molding gauge for the hem angle, which are disposed on the molding gauge mounting member 11 so as to be rotatable in the front-rear direction and the left-right direction. The molded gauge mounting member 11 is configured to be slidable in the front and rear directions by an air cylinder 12.

<Function> Next, the molded gauge cover 1 and the press machine 5
The method for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes according to the present invention using the method will be explained by taking the case of forming the tip collar of clothes as an example. 13 is a collar made by sewing the outer material and lining inside out, then turning them inside out.

First, the molding gauge 9 for the tip collar of the press machine 5 is placed in an upwardly erect state, and the molding gauge 9 for the tip collar is inserted between the outer material and the inner lining of the tip collar 13. Adjust the shape of the sword tip collar 13 with the collar 13 in a closed state. Next, the molded gauge cover 1 according to the present invention is placed over this. Then, the air cylinder 12 is operated to move the forming gauge mounting member 11 to the lower press iron 7.
At the same time, move the tip collar forming gauge 9 backward so that the tip collar forming gauge 9 is horizontal and the back material 3 of the forming gauge cover 1 is in contact with the upper surface of the lower press trowel 7. make contact with them.

Next, the air cylinder 8 is operated to lower the upper press trowel 6 so that the upper press trowel 6 lightly contacts the surface material 2 of the molded gauge cover 1. In this state, the air cylinder 12 is actuated to move the molded gauge attachment member 11 forward, and the molded gauge 9 for the tip collar is pulled out from between the outer material and the lining of the collar 13.

Then, after pulling out the molding gauge 9 for the sword tip collar,
Operate the air cylinder 8 to further lower the upper press trowel 6 to form the tip collar 13 of the gauge cover 1.
Pressing is performed from above with an upper press trowel 6 and a lower press trowel 7, and a steam device is operated to apply steam at the same time. After applying steam, the vacuum device is operated to dry and cool the tip collar to prevent the molding from collapsing, and the air cylinder 8 is operated to raise the upper press trowel 6.
The molded tip collar 13 remains on the lower press trowel 7 with the molded gauge cover 1 covered, so the molding work can be completed by removing the molded gauge cover 1 from the tip collar 13. become.

By covering the molded gauge 9 with the tip collar 13 that has been sewn and turned over, the tip collar 13 can be removed.
has an appropriate shape, and by covering it with the molding gauge cover 1 during pressing, it is possible to prevent the tip collar from being deformed and pressed.

In the illustrated press machine 5, by rotating the hem angle forming gauge 10 by 90 degrees to the left and standing it upright, the hem angle forming gauge 10 can be used to form the hem angle in the same manner. The method according to the present invention is not limited to the illustrated press machine, and can be carried out in a similar manner using various press machines. This can be done in the same way for each special shaped part.

<Effects of the Invention> As described above, the method for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, the gauge cover for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, and the device for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes according to the present invention have the following effects. For example, the specially shaped part is shaped with a forming gauge, and the press is made from above the forming gauge cover, which is hard to deform, heat resistant, and breathable, so that the specially shaped part does not deform during pressing and the forming gauge Can be formed into the desired shape,
It not only simplifies the work, but also ensures that the correct shape is achieved, which is extremely effective.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings show an embodiment of the method for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, the gauge cover for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, and the device for forming the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes, according to the present invention. , FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the molded gauge cover, FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the press, and FIG. 3 is a front view of the press. 1... Molded gauge cover, 2... Surface material, 3...
...Back material, 4...Side part, 5...Press machine, 6...
...Upper press trowel, 7...Lower press trowel, 8, 12...
Air cylinder, 9... Molding gauge for sword tip collar,
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 10... Molded gauge for hem angle, 11... Molded gauge mounting member, 13... Sword tip collar, a... Opening of molded gauge cover.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. After sewing special shaped parts of clothes such as the edge collar and hem corners of the outer material and lining, a molding gauge pre-formed in these shapes is inserted between the outer material and the lining. After adjusting the shape of these specially shaped parts, a molded gauge cover is placed on top of this, which is molded into a cap shape that is not easily deformed by steam and has breathability and heat resistance, and matches these shapes, and then the molded gauge is extracted and molded gauge A method for forming collars, hem angles, etc. of clothes, characterized by pressing and forming a specially shaped part sewn onto the cover while applying steam. 2. It is not easily deformed by steam, has breathability and heat resistance, and is shaped to fit special shapes such as collars and hem angles of clothes, and is molded into a cap shape so that it can be placed over special shapes. A molded gauge cover for the tip collar, hem angle, etc. of clothes that is characterized by a 3. A collar for clothing that is not easily deformed by steam, has breathability and heat resistance, conforms to special shapes such as the collar and hem angle of clothing, and is formed into a cap shape so that it can be placed over the special shaped parts; A molding gauge for the hem angle, etc. A molding gauge for the sword tip collar and a molding gauge for the hem angle, to which a cover can be attached and detached, are provided so as to be movable back and forth and rotatably, and a molding gauge for the hem corner and the hem angle molding gauge are provided. A device for forming collars, hem angles, etc. of clothes, characterized in that a lower press trowel having a wider area than the forming gauge cover and an upper press trowel that can freely move up and down are arranged in a part of the movement course of the forming gauge.