JPH0229775B2 - MARUCHIFUIRAMENTOSHIKARANARUMOKUSHI - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION A: Technical Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a technique for producing heathered yarn by subjecting multifilament yarn to fluid treatment.

B. Prior art and its problems Among the fabrics that use threads made of multiple types of multifilament yarns, fabrics that are generally called heathered have a special appearance and have been used to create a unique group of clothing products. I am doing it.

Prior Art 1 There is a known technique for manufacturing heathered yarn by aligning and combining two or more types of multifilament yarns exhibiting different colors or different dyeability. However, there are problems such as cost increases due to actual twisting and regularity of heathering due to repetition of monotonous twisting patterns, so-called heather flow.

Prior Art 2 A technique proposed in JP-A-51-70342 is a technique for producing a heathered fabric by imparting intermittent entanglement to two or more types of temporary twisted yarns exhibiting different colors or different dyeing properties. This technique shows heterochromatic or metachromatic properties2
When multiple types of multifilament yarns are mixed too uniformly in single fiber units and made into a fabric, the heathering is too fine, making it look like a fabric with an intermediate color rather than a heather. Furthermore, since the yarn is not twisted, it has a fluffy texture and does not hold together as a thread, degrading the quality of the product.

C. OBJECT OF THE INVENTION In view of the above-mentioned deficiencies of the prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a heathered yarn with high shape stability that can express a new heathered form and has a refreshing texture with a twist.

In other words, the present invention provides a yarn that has no grain flow, has a sharp grain pattern, and has a novel appearance.

D Configuration of the present invention The present invention has the following configuration.

"A yarn whose constituent yarns are two or more types of multifilament yarns that exhibit different colors or different dyeing properties,
At least two constituent yarns each have an S twist part and a Z twist part as lower twists in the length direction, and a part of the substantially twist-free part of at least one constituent yarn is a part of the other constituent yarn. The at least two component yarns exhibit a self-twisted state, and a part of the portion exhibiting the self-twisted state has a top twist density coefficient of 5000 or more. Heather thread. In the present invention, the above-mentioned heathered yarn is preferably characterized in that at least one constituent yarn has a temporary curl.

More preferably, the above-mentioned heathered thread is characterized in that the constituent threads are two multifilament threads.

More preferably, each of the above-mentioned heathered yarns has a non-twisting portion of at least one component yarn having a length of 20 mm.
It is a heathered thread characterized by its thickness of less than cm.

Next, the present invention will be explained in further detail.

At least two multifilament yarns are required to constitute the heathered yarn of the present invention, and if at least two of the constituent yarns exhibit different colors or different dyeing properties, the material may be nylon, polyester, acrylic, etc. Any of synthetic fibers, recycled fibers such as rayon, and natural fibers such as silk may be used.

In the yarn of the present invention, at least two multifilament yarns exhibiting different colors or different dyeing properties each have an S twist and a Z twist as the lower twists, and there is a substantially twist-free portion between them. exist.
Further, the at least two multifilament yarns exhibit a self-twist state, and the yarn of the present invention exhibits an S twist and a Z twist in the length direction. That is, the weave density of the yarn of the present invention changes in the length direction, and the weave line direction also changes substantially. In addition, some parts exhibiting a self-twist state have an upward density coefficient of 5000.
It is necessary to have a top heel of 5000 or more, and if there is no part with a top heel density coefficient of 5000 or more, the change in the density of the top heel, that is, the change in the shape of the heather will be insignificant.

Here, the upper twist density coefficient means that a sample of about 7 cm is taken with as little tension as possible on the yarn, and then a tension of 0.1 g/d is applied to the sample and a 5 cm long sample is placed inside the sample. Mark the corresponding 5
Measure the top twist number N (times) of the cm length section and calculate as 20 x N x √ fineness (denier) of all constituent yarns.

The upper twist density due to this self-twisting increases as the ratio of the lower twist directions of the lower twist portions of the constituent yarns that are aligned is higher, and the higher the twist density in the twist direction of the lower twist portions of each of the constituent yarns. Become.

In addition, in the yarn of the present invention, since a part of the substantially twist-free part of at least one constituent thread is intertwined with a part of other constituent threads, tension is applied in the length direction to reduce top twist. However, the structure from the bottom is not easily destroyed,
When the tension is removed, it almost returns to its original form. In other words, the thread structure is fixed by interlacing.

Further, the yarn structure fixing function becomes more remarkable as the proportion of the non-twisted portions of the component yarns that are aligned increases and the intertwined state is stronger.

Here, the outline of the heathered yarn of the present invention will be further explained using FIG. 1. Figure 1 is a typical example of two constituent threads with matching non-twisted parts.
1 is a part where the bottom twist is a Z twist and the top twist is an S twist, 3 is a part where the bottom twist is an S twist and the top twist is a Z twist, and 2 is a part with no twist in an intertwined state. Show that there is. In this way, the upper direction is S.
The twist density of the upper twist changes from the twisted part to the non-twisted part (entangled part) to the Z-twisted part, and when made into fabric, the parts corresponding to 1 and 3 have large heathers,
The part corresponding to 2 is a mixture of single fibers, resulting in a fine heathered fabric with a vivid heathered fabric that is extremely complex and rich in variation.

Although it is not shown in Figure 1, if the bottom weave directions of the two aligned multifilament yarns do not match and no top heave occurs, or if it occurs only slightly, it will occur on the fabric in the heather. It is expressed as a scratchy streak, further increasing the value of the fabric.

The length of the untwisted part of at least one constituent thread is 20
It is preferable that the length of the non-twisted part is not more than 1 cm. If the length of the non-twisted part is long, it will feel bulky and will not have the texture of a twisted thread, resulting in a deterioration of the quality of the product. This is very different from the case described above where the directions of the downward twist and the downward twist do not match, so no upward twist occurs, resulting in scratch-like streaks.

Next, an example of the method for producing heathered yarn of the present invention is shown in Fig. 2A.
Explain using.

Two types of multifilament yarns exhibiting different colors or metachromaticity are supplied as a and b to the apparatus shown in FIG. 2A. The multifilament yarn A passes through a temporary twist nozzle 12a fed from a feed roller 11a. At this time, compressed air is intermittently supplied to the temporary twist nozzle 12a to impart alternate twists to the multifilament yarn A. The multifilament yarn B is also subjected to the same treatment as shown in FIG. 2A, and the two yarns are aligned and entangled just before the interlacing nozzle 13, and guided to the rollers 14 and self-twisted to obtain the yarn of the present invention. .

Temporary twist nozzle 12 that applies alternate twist here
For a and b, ordinary nozzles can be used effectively, and compressed air is effective from the viewpoint of cost and ease of handling, but the pressure fluid is not limited to this.

In order to efficiently increase the twisting density of each alternating twist, it is necessary to use nozzles with high twisting efficiency, and to use supply rollers 11a, b and temporary twisting nozzles 12.
Making the yarn path between a and b as long as possible, shortening the yarn path between the temporary twist nozzles 12a, b and the entangled nozzle 13 as much as possible, and optimizing the switching time of the pressure fluid intermittently supplied to the temporary twist nozzles. Although it is a good idea to consider the following, there are limitations depending on the equipment used.

The timing at which the pressure fluid changes the twist of each component thread is not particularly limited, and may be set to 2.
In the case of the threads that make up a book, there is a pattern as shown in FIG. 3, for example. In Figure 3, A, B, C,
D shows different patterns. In each pattern, the thick black line shows the part to which compressed air is applied, and the thin black line shows the part to which compressed air is not applied. When compressed air is applied randomly and intermittently in this way, alternating twists are formed, but in order to obtain a stronger self-twisted state, it is necessary to adjust the timing so that the twist directions of the aligned component yarns match as much as possible, for example C , D is preferable.

The entangling nozzle may be any nozzle as long as it is capable of causing a partially entangled state between the constituent yarns, and may be a known entangling nozzle.

In addition, in order to obtain alternating twists with high twist density,
The length between the rollers 11a, b and the temporary twisted nozzles 12a, b should be made as long as possible, and the temporary twisted nozzles 12
It is important to make the length between a, b and the interlacing nozzle 13 as short as possible.

F Effects of the present invention The effects of the heathered yarn of the present invention will be described below.

(1) Two or more multifilament yarns of different colors or discolorations are twisted together, so when fabric is made, it has a rough heather appearance.

(2) In (1), since there is unevenness in the length direction, the pitch of the heather is not uniform, and when made into cloth, the heather will vary.

(3) In the intertwined area, single fibers intertwine with each other, resulting in a fine to heathered appearance and further variations.

(4) The constituent yarns themselves have a twist, so they have drapability, and because they have a top twist, they have a smooth, refreshing texture without a slimy feel.

(5) Since the alternating twists of the constituent yarns are fixed by interlacing, the twist density is difficult to decrease and is stable.

(6) Fluid technology is used to efficiently form alternating twists, resulting in high productivity.

(7) When temporary twist yarn is used as the supplied yarn, the condition of the heather changes further when it is made into fabric, creating a unique surface effect.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn of 75 denier 36 filament and 75 denier as raw yarn
The heathered yarn of the present invention was produced using the apparatus shown in FIG. 2A using polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye of denier 24 filaments.

The manufacturing conditions are shown in FIG. 2A for rollers 11a,
b, rollers 14a, b each at 180 m/min,
178 m/min, the feeding directions of the temporary twisting nozzles 12a and 12b are S and Z respectively, the pressure of the temporary twisting nozzles is 3 kgG, the compressed air injection time and the compressed air injection stop time are each 0.25 seconds, and the interlacing nozzles 13 The compressed air pressure was set at 3 kgG.

The produced yarn is a self-twisting yarn that is stable against tension, and the length of the non-twisted part of the two constituent yarns is less than 18cm, and the top twist density is 560T/
There was also a part showing m (upward density coefficient 6858).
When fabrics manufactured using this yarn were dyed using cationic dyes, the pattern was almost constant, but the roughness of the heather changed greatly. Summer.

Example 2 A heathered yarn of the present invention was produced using the multifilament yarn used in Example 1 as a raw yarn using the apparatus shown in FIG. 2B.

The manufacturing conditions are as follows in FIG. 2B: rollers 15a,
b, the surface speed of rollers 18a, b, and roller 21 are 186 m/min, 180 m/min, and 172 m/min, respectively.
and set the temperature of the temporary twist heaters 16a and b to 170℃,
The applying direction of the temporary twisting devices 17a, b is the S direction, the temporary twisting number is 2300T/m, and the temporary twisting nozzles 19a,
The application direction of b is both S, and the temporary twisting pressure is 3Kg.
G, both compressed air injection time and compressed air injection stop time are 0.2
It was set to simultaneously inject at ~0.3 seconds, and the compressed air pressure of the interlacing nozzle 20 was set to 3 kgG.

Although the manufactured yarn has a torque in the S direction as a whole, it is a self-twisting yarn that is stable against tension as in Example 1, and has a partial twist density of 420 T/m (top twist density coefficient). 5144), and the yarn has a bulge due to temporary curling. When a fabric using this yarn was dyed with a cationic dye, unlike in Example 1, the yarn itself had a bulge but a thick texture. The result was a new heathered fabric with no heather flow and a greatly changed heather roughness. There was also a partial wrinkle effect due to the difference in the density of the lower twist.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows a portion of the heathered yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 schematically shows a corresponding example of the method for producing the heathered yarn of the present invention. Figure 3 shows the timing of intermittently supplying pressure fluid to the two temporary twisted nozzles in the manufacturing method of the present invention. In each pattern, the thick black line indicates that the pressure fluid is being supplied, and the thin black line indicates that the pressure fluid is being supplied. Indicates that pressure fluid supply is stopped. 1: Upper twist part of S twist, 2: Non-twist part (entangled part), 3: Upper twist part of Z twist, 11a, b: Roller, 12a, b: Temporary twist nozzle, 13: Intertwined nozzle, 14: Roller, 15a,b: roller, 16
a, b: Heater, 17a, b: Temporary twisting device, 18
a, b: Roller, 19a, b: Temporary twisted nozzle, 2
0: interlacing nozzle, 21: roller.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A yarn whose constituent yarns are two or more types of multifilament yarns exhibiting different colors or different dyeing properties,
At least two constituent yarns each have an S twist part and a Z twist part as lower twists in the length direction, and a part of the substantially twist-free part of at least one constituent yarn is a part of the other constituent yarn. The at least two component yarns exhibit a self-twisted state, and a part of the portion exhibiting the self-twisted state has a top twist density coefficient of 5000 or more. Heather thread. 2. A heathered yarn made of a multifilament yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one constituent yarn has a temporary curl. 3. A heathered yarn made of multifilament yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the constituent yarns are two multifilament yarns. 4. A heathered yarn made of a multifilament yarn according to claim 3, wherein each of the non-twisted portions of at least one constituent yarn has a length of 20 cm or less.