JPH02261488A - Sewing method - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide always uniform products irrespective of the skill of a sewer by transfer a cloth to be sewn on a sewing machine bed, clamping a portion of the cloth to be sewn with a clamping device, then setting a sewing starting portion to a sewing part of a cloth end control machine and keeping predetermined tension during the sewing. CONSTITUTION:When a blouse is sewn continuously form the side to the lower part of sleeve, for example, a half-finished product of the blouse having the shoulder and sleeve finished is held on three portions of the cuff, lower portion of the side and skirt by a clamp 4 provided on a cloth clamping means 3 of a transfer device A. Then, the half-finished product is transferred upward as shown by the arrow E, again transferred to a clamp 10 of a transfer device C at the uppermost section and transferred to a sewing machine bed 6 so that a portion of the cloth to be sewn is clamped by a clamping device 12. Then, the half-finished product is automatically set to a sewing section in a cloth end control machine 14 by a sewing section setting device so that the sewing machine starts sewing, while predetermined tension between the sewing section and clamping device 12 is held by a tensioning device 13 to prevent differential feed and creeps.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method of sewing a fabric, and more specifically,
This invention relates to a fabric sewing method using a fabric edge control sewing machine.

[Background of the invention]

In the sewing industry, efforts have been made to streamline sewing costs by increasing the speed of sewing machines, reviewing handling operations, and examining sewing processes, with some success being achieved. However, although the above-mentioned cost rationalization measures certainly contribute to cost rationalization, they depend on the skill level of the sewing worker, and depending on the technical ability of the sewing worker, inferior products may be produced or the planned sewing costs may not necessarily be rationalized. Something happened.

Due to the above, various automatic sewing machines have been developed,
It is actually being used in a garment factory and is showing results. For example, a fabric edge control sewing machine used for side stitching of slacks is a typical automatic sewing machine, but when we analyze the movements of seamstresses using this fabric edge control sewing machine, we can broadly categorize them into the following five movements. It can be divided into In other words,■
Take out the fabric from the box b, ■ Carry the removed fabric onto the sewing machine table, ■ Smooth out the folds and wrinkles of the carried fabric b
, ■ Set the sewing start part to the seam part, ■ Slightly pull the set fabric, apply tension to the fabric, and sew.

Because the above operations are repeated, even if a material edge control sewing machine is used, the handling operation is complicated, and the ratio of the time the sewing machine is actually operating to the total process time is
The operating rate of the sewing machine is not high even though it is an automatic sewing machine.
The reduction in sewing time, that is, the rationalization of sewing costs, is also slight.

However, it has the advantage of being able to maintain a constant seam allowance, requiring a low level of sewing skill, and being able to handle it even for beginners.

As stated above, there is currently no sewing method that has the two advantages of not requiring sewing skill and being able to rationalize sewing costs.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention provides a sewing method that does not depend on the skill level of the sewing worker when sewing fabric, can always produce a uniform product, and can also rationalize sewing costs. It is intended for the purpose of providing.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the sewing method according to the present invention is characterized in that sewing is performed by the following steps a to d using a cloth edge control sewing machine. be.

a. Step b of transporting the fabric to be sewn onto the sewing machine table; Step b: Grasping the portion to be sewn of the fabric to be sewn conveyed onto the sewing machine table by a gripping means provided on the sewing machine table; C0 Sewing portion; a step (d) of supplying the sewing start portion of the fabric to be sewn which is gripped to the sewing section; a step of sewing while maintaining a predetermined tension between the sewing section of the fabric and the gripping section using a tension applying means; ] The sewing method according to the present invention includes transporting a semi-finished product or the like, which is a fabric to be sewn, onto a sewing machine table, and gripping a portion of the fabric to be sewn by a gripping device installed on the sewing machine table. Next, the sewing start part of the fabric is set in the sewing section of the fabric edge control sewing machine, and after the setting is completed, sewing is started with the fabric edge control sewing machine. During sewing, a predetermined tension is maintained between the sutured portion and the gripping portion gripped by the gripping means by means of a tension applying means, thereby preventing the seams from sagging or sagging.

〔Example〕

Embodiments of the present invention will be described based on the drawings.

Fig. 1 shows an outline of the sewing method, and the sewing method shown in Fig. 1 shows, for example, a case in which the sides of a blouse are sewn continuously from the side to the bottom of the sleeves, and is a semi-finished product of a blouse after the shoulders and sleeves have been attached. The semi-finished blouse is transferred to the gripping tool 4 installed in the fabric gripping means 3 of the conveyance device A at three locations: the cuff, the armpit, and the hem.6 Next, the semi-finished blouse is conveyed in the direction indicated by the arrow, and It stops at the left side of A, and is transferred to the gripping tool 9 of conveyance device B. Further, the semi-finished blouse was transported upward as indicated by arrow E, transferred again to the gripper 10 of the transport device C at the top thereof, transported to the sewing machine table top 6, and placed on the sewing machine table 6. Next, the part to be sewn is gripped by the gripping device 2, and then automatically set by the sewing part setting device to the sewing part of the fabric edge control sewing machine 14, and the sewing machine starts sewing. During sewing, the sewing is performed while maintaining a predetermined tension between the sutured portion and the gripping device 12 by the tension applying device 13 in order to prevent misalignment or damage, and then the sewing is completed.

According to this embodiment, the blouse semi-finished products are supplied one after another to the conveying devices B and C during the sewing described above, so that the sewing of the next blouse semi-finished product is started immediately after the sewing is completed.

In this specification, the above-mentioned cloth edge control sewing machine 14 refers to a lock stitch type, a double chainstitch type, an edge stitch type, which stitches the edges of cut cloth by overlapping one or two or more sheets. A sewing machine that sews along the edge of fabric. Further, a sewing machine that overlocks the edges of one piece of fabric is generally called a serging sewing machine, and a sewing machine that sews the edges of two pieces of fabric is also generally called an edge control seamer. The fabric edge control method of these sewing machines can be roughly divided into two types. One type has a fabric edge detection sensor set in front of the sewing machine needle, and a drive source located in front of it that controls the fabric edge control system in the direction of fabric movement. There is a sewing machine equipped with a small roller that has a rotating shaft that is almost parallel to the sewing machine.As mentioned above, this sewing machine uses a fabric edge detection sensor to detect the edge of the fabric so that the edge of the fabric is always in a constant position. , the small roller rotates forward or backward to increase the seam allowance at the edge of the fabric, or conversely to decrease the seam allowance, thereby always keeping the seam allowance constant. In other types, the position where the edge of the fabric passes is determined, a fabric guide is installed at that location, and a fabric presser foot that presses the fabric lightly adjacent to the fabric guide or a small rotatable roller that does not have a driving source is installed. There is a model that makes contact with the cloth at a certain angle with respect to the direction of travel of the cloth. In these sewing machines, the fabric is sewn, and as the fabric progresses, a part of the fabric is pressed by a presser foot or a small roller, so the fabric moves in a direction that increases the seam allowance. Since the fixed point of the fabric edge has been determined, the fabric will not exceed the seam allowance set by the fabric guide, and will always be sewn with a constant seam allowance.

The above-mentioned sewing machine is called a material edge control sewing machine.

The sewing process will be explained in detail below in order.

1) Process of conveying the fabric to be sewn onto the sewing machine table The process of conveying the fabric to be sewn (hereinafter simply referred to as fabric) onto the sewing machine table will be described.

The apparatus for conveying the fabric according to this embodiment includes a lateral conveyance section A.
, a vertical conveyance section B which takes over and conveys the fabric etc. to be conveyed from the horizontal conveyance section A upward, and a sewing machine table direction conveyance section C which takes over the fabric from the vertical conveyance section B again. It is something that

A detailed explanation of each of the above-mentioned conveyance units is as follows.
First, the lateral conveyance section A will be explained based on FIG.

In Fig. 1, 1 is a sprocket or pulley 2.2,
2. It is an endless chain or belt guided by..., and the endless chain or belt 1 (
The endless belt 1 (hereinafter referred to as endless belt 1) has a horizontally elongated conveyance path having a bottom that serves as a transfer section on the downstream side in the conveyance direction. 3 is a fabric gripping means, and the fabric gripping means 3 includes a plurality of gripping tools 4.
,4. The fabric gripping means 3 is formed as a set of .
are attached to the endless band 1 at predetermined intervals.

The distance between the fabric gripping tools 4, 4.4 is set to such a distance that the fabric does not droop significantly, and the distance between the gripping tools 4.4.4 must be narrowed for fabrics with a large basis weight. However, if it is too narrow, the fabric should be held by a gripping tool 4.4.4.
Since it is undesirable that it takes time and effort to hold the grips, it is preferable that the interval between the grippers 4, 4.4 is approximately 200 to 500 mm. The shapes of the gripping tools 4, 4.4 are illustrated in FIG.
As shown in Fig. 4e, the curved needle 4# is attached to the rotating shaft of the rotary actuator, and the cough needle 4# is attached to the rotation shaft of the rotary actuator. As shown in Fig. 4 f, g, h, gripping pieces 41+41+4□, 4. There is one that operates to clamp the fabric. A position detection sensor is installed in the horizontal transport section A, and the sensor needs to reliably stop the fabric attached to the fabric gripping means 3 at a transfer position where it is transferred to a vertical transport section to be described later. , which detects the transfer position mentioned above.

Next, the above-mentioned vertical conveyance section B will be explained. In FIGS. 1 and 3, reference numeral 19 denotes a plurality of support rods, and sprockets or pulleys 15 and 16 are rotatably supported at the upper and lower portions of the support rods 19, respectively. A belt or chain 9 is wound around the lower boob or sprocket 16, and the belt or chain 9 (hereinafter simply referred to as conveyance band 9) is endlessly rotated in the vertical direction by a synchronous motor. Reference numeral 18 denotes a plurality of gripping tools for fabric splicing that are attached to each of the above-mentioned conveyance belts 9 at predetermined intervals, and the endless belt 1 of the above-mentioned lateral conveyance section A is controlled by the gripping tools 18 for cloth splicing.
The fabric attached to the fabric gripping means 3 provided at the transfer position is hooked and transferred, and the received fabric is conveyed upward by a conveyance belt 9. Therefore, it is preferable to use a gripping tool having a shape as shown in FIG. 4d as the fabric joint gripping tool 1818, . . . .

In addition, as described above, since it is necessary to transfer the fabric to the upper position by the vertical direction conveyance section B by the horizontal direction conveyance section, and then transfer it again to the sewing machine table direction conveyance section C, which will be described later, the vertical direction Since the conveying section B always needs to be stopped at the above-mentioned transfer position, in this embodiment, the above-mentioned support rod 19
A positioning sensor is attached to the fabric, and the fabric is positioned using the sensor.

Although the number of the conveyance belts 9 described above varies depending on the length of the fabric to be conveyed, in this embodiment, the gripping tools 4, 4. The number was 3, which was the same as the number 4.

Next, the sewing machine table direction conveyance section C will be explained.
3, 6 is a sewing machine table, 27 is a support rod attached to a frame 28 fixed to the leg 26 of the sewing machine table 6, and the support rod 27 is a width of the sewing machine table 6. The rodless cylinder 8 is extended so as to cross the direction.
to hang. 10 is a movable element of the rodless cylinder 8 described above, and the movable element 1O is provided with a gripping tool 20 for fabric transfer having a swinging needle. A plurality of rodless cylinders 8 are provided as the fabric conveyance means described above, but in this embodiment, the number is three, which is the same number as the conveyance belts 9 of the vertical conveyance section B.

The process of conveying the fabric onto the sewing machine table is configured as described above, so the fabric transfer section, which is the lower part of the horizontal conveyance section A, is placed under the vertical conveyance section B and placed on the carriage 22. place

The positional relationship between the two is such that the fabric being held by the fabric gripping means 3 of the lateral conveying section A is attached to each of the conveying belts 9 of the plurality of vertical conveying sections B.
8 positions the transfer parts close enough to each other to be able to scoop the fabric, and the gripping tools 18 and 18 for fabric transfer provided on each of the plurality of conveyance bands 9 of the vertical conveyance part B When the fabric is placed in the upper position, the fabric transferred to the gripping tool 15.15 is transferred to the fabric transfer gripping tool 20 provided on the mover 10 of the plurality of rodless cylinders 8 of the sewing machine table direction conveying section C. The transfer section of the vertical conveyance section is arranged close enough to the movable element 10 to be able to scoop it up.

It is gripped by the fabric inheritance gripping tool 18 of the plurality of conveyance belts 9 by the swinging needle of the movable element 10 having the reinheriting gripping tool 20 equipped with the swinging needle of the sewing machine table direction conveying section C described above. The fabric 5 that has been removed is transferred to the conveying section C again, and the rodless cylinder 8 is operated to convey the movable element 10 onto the sewing machine table 6.

In the process of conveying the fabric arranged as described above onto the sewing machine table, the fabric is conveyed, for example, in the process of tying the side of the blouse, by conveying the semi-finished blouse 5 to the sewing machine table 6. In the conveyance section A, a sewing machine for the sleeve attachment process, which is a pre-process of side stitching, is placed next to the conveyance section A, and when the sleeve attachment process is completed, the semi-finished blouse is immediately attached to the fabric gripping means 3 after being temporarily fastened. 5 was made to be held. The above-mentioned grip is for gripping the area to be sewn near the seam line where the sewing process is performed, and the seam allowance is 20 mm.
If it is more than m, the seam allowance may be gripped.

As mentioned above, the semi-finished blouse products 5 are transported one by one onto the sewing machine table 6 near the sewing section, and the semi-finished blouse products 5 are transported with the seam allowances already combined. This eliminates the need for a handling process for aligning seam allowances on the sewing machine table 6, allowing for extremely efficient sewing.

2) The process of grasping the part to be sewn at the edge of the fabric The process of grasping the part to be sewn at the edge of the cloth is the process of grasping the part to be sewn of the fabric 5, such as a blouse, which has been conveyed onto the sewing machine table 6 in the previous process. This will be explained based on FIGS. 5 and 6. As mentioned above, the fabric 5 is conveyed onto the sewing machine table 6 by the conveying device C, and the fabric 5 of the conveying device C is gripped and conveyed. Near the end of the rodless cylinder 8, there is a gripping device 1 movable by wheels 30 at one end, perpendicular to the conveyance direction of the rodless cylinder 8.
2, and a connecting rod 32 connected to a tension applying device 33 fixed on the sewing machine table 6 by means of a fixing table 3 is disposed at the other end.

The fabric 5 transported onto the sewing machine table 6 by the transport device C is transferred to a gripping device 12 in front of the rodless cylinder 8. That is, the fabric 5 is passed from the gripping tool 20 installed on the movable element 10 of the rodless cylinder 8 to the grasping device 12, and the movable element 10 of the rodless cylinder 8 to which the fabric 5 was transferred is returned to its original state. returned to position. Therefore, as described above, the gripping tool 20 of the rodless cylinder 8 and the gripping device 12 are installed close to each other, so that the fabric can be reliably passed to the receiver, and the part to be sewn gripped by the conveying section is It is necessary to determine the positional relationship between the two so that the gripping device 12 can grip the object without disturbing the object.

As the gripping part of the above-mentioned gripping device 12, the one illustrated in FIG. 4 can be used, but it is preferable to use the gripping tool shown in FIG.

Furthermore, the number of gripping devices 12 that grip the sewn portion of the fabric edge may be one at the end of sewing, but in the case of a long item, the number of gripping devices 12 that grip the sewn portion of the fabric edge may be increased depending on the number of movers 10 of the conveyance device. For example, in the example shown in FIG.
The first has been installed.

In FIGS. 5 and 6, 39 is a fabric edge detection sensor of the fabric edge control sewing machine I4, and 35 is a small roller. The small roller 35 is rotated forward or backward to move in the direction of increasing the seam allowance at the edge of the fabric, or conversely in the direction of decreasing the seam allowance, so that the seam allowance is always constant, and 36 is a sewing machine needle, Reference numeral 37 indicates a sewing machine presser foot, and 38 indicates a sewing machine feed dog.

3) Step of supplying the sewing start part to the sewing part To explain the process of supplying the sewing part and the sewing start part of the fabric edge control sewing machine 14 described above, the sewing start part of the fabric 5 conveyed onto the sewing machine 6 is sewn. I supply it to the section and start sewing, but
There are two methods for this supply, one of which is handling by a sewing worker, which is an effective method for obtaining sewn products with higher precision. The other one is
This is a method of providing a setting device for automatic setting, and an example of this will be explained as shown in FIGS. In the example shown in FIG. 8, a gearbox 40 is pressably provided on a piston 42 of an air cylinder 41, and a drive gear 43 driven by a small motor shown in the gearbox 40 is rotatably supported. The rotation of the driving gear 43 is transmitted to the gear 45 via the intermediate gear 44.
A fabric moving gear 46 coaxial with the fabric moving gear 5 is configured to be rotatable.
The fabric moving gear 46 is rotated while pressing the fabric moving gear 46 which protrudes further against the fabric 5 on the sewing machine stand 6, and the fabric 5 is moved to and set at the sewing part by the rotation of the gear 46.

In another example shown in FIG. 9, an air cylinder 47 for vertical movement is provided, and an air cylinder 49 having a piston rod 50 that can move back and forth in the lateral direction is attached to the piston rod 48 of the air cylinder 47. , a cloth presser 49 is fixed to the tip of the piston rod 50. The above-mentioned setting device is
By operating the vertical movement air cylinder 47, the air cylinder 4
9 is moved down, the fabric 5 is pressed by the cloth presser 51 fixed to the piston rod 50 which is movable in the horizontal direction of the air cylinder 49, the piston rod 50 of the air cylinder 49 is extended, and the cloth presser The tool 51 is advanced, and the fabric 5 is moved by the advancement, and after reaching the elongation ratio of the piston rod 50,
The above-mentioned vertical movement air cylinder 47 is operated to move the air cylinder 49 upward to separate the cloth presser 51 from the fabric 5, the air cylinder 49 is operated to withdraw the piston rod 50, and then the vertical movement air cylinder 49 is moved upward. 47 to lower the air cylinder 49 and press the fabric 5 with the fabric presser 51.
is pressed, and the air cylinder 49 is operated to move the fabric 5 by extending the piston rod 50 for forward and backward movements while holding the fabric 5 with the fabric presser 51. By repeating these operations, the fabric 5 is set in the stitched portion.

By providing the automatic setting device described above, the handling time of the sewing worker can be shortened and automation can be promoted.

4) A step of sewing while maintaining a predetermined tension between the suture portion and the gripping portion The fabric 5 set in the suture portion through the above steps is
Sewing is started automatically or manually, but in this embodiment, the above-mentioned cloth edge control sewing machine 1 is used.
4 automatically sews, but at this time,
The method of applying tension to the fabric 5 will be explained. This method of applying tension is performed by a device linked to the gripping device 12 described above, and is performed by, for example, Nos. 5.6, 7. This is the device shown in Figures 1 and 11.

5 and 6, the other end of the connecting rod 32 on which the gripping device 12 is fixed is connected to a tensioning device 33 consisting of a spring or a torque motor, and the fabric gripped by the gripping device 12 is 5 is sewn with a sewing machine needle 36 with a constant seam allowance through a fabric edge control mechanism consisting of a fabric edge detection sensor 39, a small roller 35, etc. of the fabric edge control sewing machine 14. As described above, the gripping device 12 is connected to the tension applying device 33 via the connecting rod 32 in order to prevent the sewn fabric 5 from going to the left.
A predetermined tension is applied to the fabric 5. Also,
The one shown in FIG. 7 uses a weight 52 to apply tension instead of a spring or a torque motor.

Further, in another example shown in FIG. 10 and FIG. 11, the gripping device and the tension applying device are integrated, and the present device is composed of a gripping portion 55 and a tension applying portion 56, and the gripping device described above is 5
5 and the tension applying part 56 are connected by a spring 57, and electrical terminals 58 and 58 are provided to protrude from the rear part of the grip part 55 and the front part of the tension applying part 56, respectively. 59 is a synchronous motor of the tension applying unit 56 described above, 60 and 60 are drive wheels driven by the motor 59, and 61° and 61 are guide rolls that roll on a rail laid on the sewing machine table 6. The above-mentioned integrated grip portion 55 and tension applying portion 56 are connected to the rail 62.
It moves while being guided by guide rolls 61 and 61 that move above it.

In this device configured as described above, the fabric 5 gripped by the grip part 55 moves to the left, and the tension of the fabric 5 is greater than the attractive force of the spring 57 (if this happens, the grip part 55 moves to the left). , the electric terminals 58 and 58 are separated, and at the same time the front synchronous motor 59 is activated to drive the drive wheels 60 and 60 to move the entire device forward while being guided by the rails 62 to prevent the tension on the fabric 5 from becoming too large. By repeating this process, a predetermined tension can be obtained.

The device consisting of the above-mentioned gripping part 55 and tension applying part 56 is configured to hold the fabric 5 when the gripping part 55 reaches the vicinity of the sutured part.
It is necessary to have the ability to release the button and return it to its original position.
A gripping part position detection sensor 63 is provided (see Figures 6.10 and 11), the fabric is released at a predetermined position, and the synchronous motor 59 is rotated in reverse or returned to the original position by torque force, spring force, etc. Just do it like this.

The sewing method of this embodiment consists of the steps described above, and even during sewing, semi-finished products such as blouses are supplied one after another to conveyance device B or C, so that the next blouse can be started immediately after sewing is completed. Sewing of semi-finished products such as these will begin, and the operating rate of the sewing machine will increase dramatically. Furthermore, since a fabric edge control sewing machine is used, the seam allowance is constant, and
Since it is equipped with a gripping device and a tensioning device, even beginners can accurately obtain sewn products without defects such as sagging or sagging.

〔Effect of the invention〕

With the sewing method according to the present invention, a highly accurate product can be obtained with high efficiency without depending on the skill level of the sewing worker, and sewing costs can be rationalized. Furthermore, if the process of supplying the sewing starting part to the sewing part is automated, one person can have multiple machines, and sewing costs can be reduced.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings show an embodiment of the sewing method of the present invention, in which FIG. 4 is a side view of a conveying device, FIGS. 4(a) to (c) are side views showing various examples of gripping tools, and FIG. 6 is a side view of the same as above, FIG. 7 is a side view showing another example of the gripping device and the tension applying device, and FIG. 8 is supplying the sewing starting part of the fabric to the sewing part. FIG. 9 is a side view of another example of the same feeding device, FIG. 10 is a plan view of a device that integrates a gripping device and a tension applying device, and FIG. 11 is a side view of the same as above. . A, B, C: Conveying device 4: Gripping tool 5: Fabric 6: Sewing machine table 8: Rodless cylinder 12: Gripping device 35: Small roller
36: Sewing machine needle 39. 63: Sensor 55: Grip section 56: Drive section Patent applicant: Asahi Kasei Corporation (e) (f) (f)

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] A sewing method characterized by comprising the following steps a to d using a cloth edge control sewing machine. a. step b of conveying the fabric to be sewn onto the sewing machine table; step c of gripping the part of the fabric to be sewn conveyed onto the sewing machine table to be sewn by a gripping means provided on the sewing machine table; c, scheduled sewing. a step (d) of supplying the sewing start portion of the fabric to be sewn which is gripped by the sewing section to the sewing section; and a step of sewing while maintaining a predetermined tension between the sewing section of the fabric and the gripping section using a tension applying means.