JPH01268501A - Sewing method of instep cover - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a product in high quality and uniformity as a result, without requiring a very skillful worker, by a method wherein, after the surface and inside materials of an instep, or the instep and its reinforcing material are overlapped each other, their marginal parts are plain-seamed, the instep materials are turned inside out at the places where they are seamed, and their hems are seamed. CONSTITUTION:Surface and inside materials 11a and 11b of a front instep 11, and each surface and inside material 12a and 12b of back insteps 12 and 12 for an upper 10 are cut out of cloth, artificial leather and the like. These members are respectively overlapped with their surface and inside materials and their plain-seaming 32 is made by a sewing machine at the places where they are folded back. After the seaming 32 is made, the instep members 11 and 12 are turned inside out at their seams. Their folds are formed by a heat press and the like. Plain-seaming threads at the places where the back instep 12 and an instep rubber member 13 are inserted at part of the seaming of the front instep 11 and the rubber members 13 are inserted at part of the seaming of the back instep 12, are unfastened. Above mentioned members are inserted at the places where the threads are unfastened, and integrally formed by hemming 36 from above. The upper 10 is formed, after the rear ends 12', 12' of the back insteps 12 and 12 are connected with each other, a heel reinforcing member 16 thereon, and an insole cloth.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method of sewing the upper of footwear, for example, a method of sewing the upper material and the lining material of the upper, or the upper material and the reinforcing material, etc.
This method improves work efficiency compared to conventional methods and enables the production of high-quality products.

[Conventional technology]

The upper of a shoe made of cloth or the like is generally made by overlapping the outer material and the inner material and sewing them together. FIG. 2 shows an example of a conventional cloth shoe having a loose upper (an upper in which the outer material and the inner material are not bonded together). This is made by dividing the carapace 10 into the anterior carapace 11 and the posterior carapace 12.12.
The instep rubber 13 and 13 are sandwiched between the upper and rear 12° 12, respectively, and the whole is joined by edge stitching 14.

The rear edge portions of the rear sheaths 12, 12 are also connected together and reinforced with a reinforced material 16. You can sew an insole fabric to this upper 12 and hang it on the last and attach the bottom part by injection molding, or you can hand-make the upper without the insole fabric over the last and attach it to the back side of the insole material. The upper may be hung and attached with adhesive, and then a rubber sole etc. may be glued and molded.

FIG. 3 shows a conventional manufacturing method for the upper 12. This sewing method consists of the following steps.

■ Front material 11a and back material 11b of Fuchu 11 and back material 12
A guide frame gauge is applied to each peripheral edge of the front material 12a and the backing material 12b, and the material is folded back at a folding margin of a predetermined width (for example, about 7 nm to 10 mm) to form a folded portion 16.

■ Apply a heat press to the fold 16 to create a fold.

■ If necessary, apply glue 20 to the inside of the flap 16 to prevent the flap 16 from rising.

■ Fuchu 11, back 12, 12, and upper rubber 13°13 are overlapped in a predetermined state, and the periphery of the front material Lla and back material 11b of Fuchu 11 and the periphery of the front material 12a and back material 12b of back 12 Overlap each part.

■ Join the whole thing with hem stitch 14.

■ Back 12. Connect the rear ends 12' and 12' of 12, attach the heel reinforcing material 16, and then attach the inner sole fabric (or without attaching the inner sole fabric) to complete the upper cover 10. .

The above description has been made regarding the case where the front material and the backing material are overlapped and sewn together, but folds are similarly created when reinforcing material is sewn to the peripheral edge of the upper.

4 and 5 show a conventional sewing method for attaching the reinforcing material 24 to the peripheral edge (upper edge) of the upper 22. FIG. This sewing method consists of the following steps.

- As shown in FIG. 4, a guide frame gauge is placed on the periphery of the upper 22 to form a fold 26 with a predetermined folding width.

In order to prevent the fold 26 from rising up, the fold 26 is temporarily fixed with glue if necessary.

■ Overlap the reinforcing material 24 and paste with glue 28 1.

Make 30 edge stitches from above to join.

■ As shown in Fig. 5, one side of the upper is completed by cutting off the excess portion of the upper part of the reinforcing material 24.

■ Make the other side of the upper in the same way, join them at the toe and heel, and then add the insole fabric (or without adding the insole fabric) to complete the bag-stitched instep. do.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

The conventional sewing method has the following drawbacks.

■ As footwear becomes more fashionable and individualized, the shape of the upper is becoming more complex, and the method of making the folds 16 and 26 by machine does not stabilize the width of the folds, so it has to be done by hand. There wasn't. For this reason, the workability is poor, and the skill level of the operator is required.

■ In the shoe shown in Fig. 2, the folds 16 are made separately on the outer material and the lining material, so it is difficult to match the shape of the folds, and the shape of the product is also inconsistent.

■ For the shoes shown in Figure 2, the parts 11, 12, and 13 must be overlapped in the prescribed state, and the edge stitching 14 must be done with the outer edges of the front and back materials of the fuchu 11 and back material 12 overlapped, respectively. Therefore, it is difficult to maintain the overlapping state when sewing the edges 14, and each part 11, 12, 13
There is a risk that the edges of the front material and the backing material may be misaligned with each other, or that the edge stitching 14 is performed with the front material and the backing material misaligned with respect to each other, which may impair the aesthetic appearance of the product.

This was particularly noticeable on the loose instep.

■ In order to prevent the folds 16, 26 from rising up, it is necessary to temporarily fix the folds 16, 26 with glue as necessary, so there is a risk that the glue may spill out and spoil the aesthetic appearance of the product.

The present invention solves the problems in the conventional techniques and makes it possible to obtain a product with good workability and a good finish when sewing the upper material and the lining material or the upper material and the reinforcing material, etc. The present invention aims to provide a method for sewing uppers.

[Means to solve the problem]

This invention is characterized by overlapping the front material and lining material of the upper or the reinforcing material, etc., and sewing the periphery, and then folding it back to the back side at the place where the material has been sewn, and hemming the periphery. It is something.

In addition, in the case where the upper is constructed by joining together a plurality of upper parts, the present invention also provides a method for overlapping the outer material of the upper with the upper material or the reinforcing material, etc., and sewing the periphery of the upper with the base material. This method is characterized by folding back to the back side at the sewn part, unraveling the ground sewing thread at the part where the upper part is inserted, inserting the upper part into the unraveled part, and hemming the peripheral part.

[For production]

According to this invention, the fold-back is made by overlapping the front material and the backing material of the upper, or the reinforcing material, etc. of the upper, and sewing the peripheral edges and folding them back. Therefore, it is no longer necessary to clearly fold the peripheral edges of each material to create folds in advance, or to precisely overlap the folds of the front and backing materials, improving work efficiency and reducing the need for operator skill. . Furthermore, the finished product can be of high quality and uniform. It is particularly effective when the shape of the periphery is complex or when the instep is loose.

Furthermore, since there is no need to temporarily fix the folded folded piece with glue to prevent the folded folded piece from rising up, the aesthetic appearance will not be spoiled due to the overflowing of the glue.

In addition, in the case where the upper part is made up of a plurality of upper parts joined together, this invention can be applied by untying the ground sewing thread at the point where the upper part is inserted after ground sewing as described above, and then attaching the upper part to the part where the upper part is inserted. Since the upper material and lining material or the upper material and reinforcing material are positioned by ground stitching, it is only necessary to position the upper parts relative to each other. Improves workability. Moreover, the finish of the product is also improved.

〔Example〕

By applying this invention to the sewing of the front material and backing material of the upper,
An example of manufacturing the shoes shown in the figure will be described.

As mentioned above, these shoes have upper 10, Fuchu 11 and Gosei 12.
, was created by dividing into 12 parts, Fuchu 11 and Gosei 1.
Instep rubbers 13 and 13 are sandwiched between 2 and 12, respectively, and the whole is joined by edge stitching 14. Afterlife 1
The rear edges of 2 and 12 are connected to each other, and the reinforced material 16
is reinforced with. Sewing the inner sole cloth to this instep 12,
You can attach the bottom part by hanging it on the last and injection molding it, or you can make it by hand and cover the last with an upper without the insole fabric, hang the instep on the back side of the insole material and attach it with adhesive, and then add rubber. The bottom etc. may be glued and molded.

These shoes can be manufactured by applying the manufacturing method of this invention through the following steps.

■ Outer material 11 of Fuchu 11 of instep IG made from cloth, synthetic leather, etc.
A, the backing material 11b, and each of the facing material 12a and backing material 12b of the backings 12 and 12 are cut. In this case, the part to be folded should be cut larger (for example, about 7 to 10 pieces).

■ As shown in Figure 6, the front and back materials of each of the cut parts are overlapped, and a ground stitch 32 is made using a sewing machine at the position where the folds will be made. At this time, use a thin needle (14
By using a thin thread (about 40 to 30) and using a thin thread (about 40 to 30), the ground stitch 32 can be made inconspicuous on the product.

A cross-sectional view (cross-sectional view taken along the line A-A) of each sewing location in FIG. 6 is shown in FIG.

■ After doing ground stitch 32, each part 11°12 at that seam.
Fold back to the back side. FIG. 8 shows the folded state. Further, a cross-sectional view (cross-sectional view taken along the line B-B) of each sewing location in FIG. 8 is shown in FIG. According to this, it can be seen that the folds 34 are made at the ground stitching locations.

■ Create a folding habit using heat breath, etc.

■ Place the ground sewing thread at the position where the back elastic 12 and instep rubber 13 are inserted among the ground stitching points of Fuchu 11, and at the position where the upper rubber 13 is inserted among the ground stitching points of the back 12 (respectively indicated by hatching in Fig. 8). Unravel.

This is realized, for example, by inserting a cutter or the like from the direction shown by arrow C in FIG. 9 and cutting the ground sewing thread.

■ As shown in Figure 1, insert each instep part into the place where the ground sewing thread has been untied.

■ Sew the edge stitch 36 over the inserted part to join the whole thing together.

■ Back 12. Connect the rear ends 12' and 12' of 12, attach the hem and reinforcing material 16, and then add the insole fabric (or without attaching the insole fabric) to the instep. cover 10
is completed.

[Embodiment 2] An embodiment of manufacturing the upper shown in FIG. 5 by applying the present invention to the sewing of the upper and the reinforcing material will be described.

The upper shown in FIG. 5 can be made by the following steps by applying this invention.

■ Cut the upper 22 and reinforcing material 24 from cloth, synthetic leather, etc.

■ Lay the cut parts 22 and 24 one on top of the other as shown in Fig. 10, and use a sewing machine to sew a base stitch 32 at the position where the folds will be made.

■ As shown in Figure 11, each part 2 is
2. Turn back to 24. This creates a fold 40.

■ Apply glue 42 to the inside of the flap 40, attach it to the upper 22, and if necessary, apply a folding pattern using a heat press to complete the process.

In addition, when inserting the upper part, as in the first embodiment, partially unravel the base stitch 32, insert it there, and press the hem stitch 36.
connect the whole thing together.

[Example of change]

In the above embodiments, the case where the front material and the backing material of the upper or the reinforcing material are sewn is shown, but the present invention can also be applied to the case where the periphery is folded in other parts. .

[Effects of the Invention] As explained above, according to the present invention, a flap is created by overlapping the front material and lining material of the upper, or the reinforcing material, etc. of the upper, and sewing the periphery and folding it back. Therefore, there is no need to individually fold the periphery of each material to create folds in advance, or to precisely overlap the folds of the front and backing materials, improving work efficiency and reducing the need for operator skill. . Furthermore, the finished product is of high quality and has a uniform folding width and shape. It is particularly effective when the shape of the periphery is complex or when the instep is loose.

Further, since there is no need to temporarily fix the folded folded piece with glue to prevent the folded folded piece from rising up, the aesthetic appearance will not be spoiled due to the overflowing of the glue.

In addition, in the case where the upper part is made up of a plurality of upper parts joined together, this invention can be applied by untying the ground sewing thread at the point where the upper part is inserted after ground sewing as described above, and then attaching the upper part to the part where the upper part is inserted. Since the upper material and the lining material or the upper material and the reinforcing material are positioned by ground stitching, it is only necessary to position the child parts relative to each other. Improves workability. Moreover, the finish of the product is also improved.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a first embodiment of the present invention in which the front material and backing material of the upper are joined together, and shows a state in which each part is being joined together. FIG. 2 is a side view showing an example of shoes to which the manufacturing method of the present invention is applied. FIG. 3 is a diagram illustrating a conventional method of manufacturing the shoe of FIG. 2. FIGS. 4 and 5 are side views showing a conventional method of attaching reinforcing materials to the upper. FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a state in which the parts shown in FIG. 1 are sewn together. FIG. 7 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line A-A in FIG. 6. FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a state in which each part of FIG. 6 is folded back. FIG. 9 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line BB in FIG. 8. FIGS. 10 and 11 are diagrams showing a second embodiment of the present invention in which a reinforcing material is attached to the upper. 10.22... Upper cover, lla, 12a... Material, 1
1b, 12b...Backing material, 13...Rubber instep, 24...
- Reinforcement material, 32... ground sewing thread, 36... edge sewing thread.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) An upper characterized by overlapping the front material and lining material of the upper, or the upper and reinforcing material, etc., and sewing the periphery, then folding it back to the back side at the place where the seam was sewn, and hemming the periphery. How to sew the cover. (2) Layer the front material and lining material of the upper or the upper and reinforcing material, etc., and sew the periphery, turn back to the back side at the sew-stitched place, and untie the sew thread where the instep part will be inserted. A method for sewing an upper, which is characterized by inserting the upper part into the unraveled part and hemming the peripheral part.