JPH01148849A - Extensible warp knitted fabric using polyester non-revolving crimped yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a stretchable warp knitted fabric improved in seeing of a polyurethane-based elastic yarn through a ground design and slipping off thereof and having a soft touch feeling by knitting the warp knitted fabric using a special polyester nonturning crimped yarn and the polyurethane-based elastic yarn. CONSTITUTION: This warp knitted fabric is obtained by simultaneously knitting a nonturning crimped yarn which is a nonturning crimped yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn having interlaced bundled parts 12 and crimped parts 11 in the yarn longitudinal direction and <=0.5 crimp shape factor defined by crimp extension ratio (CE)/number of crimps (N) and a polyurethane-based elastic yarn. The nonturning crimped yarn is obtained by carrying out an interlacing treatment of a polyester multifilament yarn having <=50% shrinkage percentage in boiling water with an air jetting stream, forming interlaced bundled parts 12 in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, heat-treating the yarn in a relaxed state, setting the form, then extending the resultant yarn and eliminating a part of loops 13 or the interlaced bundled parts 12.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric that can be preferably used for sportswear, innerwear, foundations, etc. More specifically, it is a crimped yarn that is a processed yarn with luster and is suitable for use as an excellent elastic warp knitted fabric with improved peeling of the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn on the fabric surface and snags, etc. The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted with non-torque random crimp-shaped polyester multifilament yarns and polyurethane elastic fibers.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, stretchable warp knitted fabrics for sports clothing or foundations have often been made by simultaneously knitting stretched filament yarns or false twisted yarns and polyurethane yarn elastic fibers. In the former case, the fabric has good gloss, but at the same time, there are drawbacks such as so-called peeling, where the knitted polyurethane elastic fibers are visible through the fabric, and the drawback that the polyurethane elastic fibers are snaking. On the other hand, in the case of false-twisted yarn, the opposite is true, and although the peeling and snagging of polyurethane elastic fibers are improved, there is a drawback that the brightness of the gloss is poor.

For this reason, improvements have been made in the morphological history of polyurethane elastic fibers, the cross-section of drawn filament yarns, and the number of filaments as a means of satisfying the gloss, peeling, and other defects. However, at present, a stretchable warp knitted fabric that satisfies all these requirements has not been obtained.

In addition, crimped yarns used for warp knitted fabrics can be produced by stretching undrawn synthetic fiber filaments several times as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 44-8376, for example, as a method of manufacturing crimped yarns using jet flow. It is supplied to the injection area without being heat-set, and a jet flow is applied to it to entangle the constituent fibers to form loops and slacks, and after heating, the fibers are cooled again by the jet flow and completely heat-set. Then I drafted it and got bulky yarn south of the latent shrinkage. However, when an undrawn yarn is cold-drawn several times, the heat shrinkage rate of the drawn yarn is 70% or more, and the crimped yarn properties of the obtained pooled crimped yarn after boil relaxation are such that the Cling shape factor is 0. If it is larger than .6 and used in the stretchable warp knitted fabric that is the object of the present invention, only a poor product with unclear fabric gloss will be obtained.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The present inventors aimed to obtain a polyester fiber yarn suitable for stretchable warp knitted fabrics, and as a result of extensive research, the present inventors made polynisdel multifilament yarn with a heat shrinkage rate of 50% or less by jet flow. After applying the interlacing treatment using the fibers to form an interlaced fruit eastern part by applying it in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and fixing the form by relaxing heat treatment, a part of the interlaced convergence part 9 is disappeared by applying a predetermined elongation. By this, non-swirling yarn can be obtained,
By knitting together with polyurethane elastic fibers,
The present invention was completed by discovering a stretchable warp knitted fabric suitable for the above purpose.

[Means for solving problems]

The present invention provides a polyester mulch that has an interlaced bundle part and a crimped part in the yarn length direction, and has a crimp shape factor defined as 0.5 or less of 0.5 or less, which is defined as 0.5 or less of 0.5 or less. This is a stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted with non-turning crimped yarns made of filaments and polyurethane elastic yarns.

The warp-knitted fabric of the present invention is produced by subjecting polyester multifilament yarns with a water-making shrinkage rate of 50% or less to a wire treatment using an air jet flow to swamp the yarns in the longitudinal direction to form an intertwined eastern part. Simultaneously knitting non-swivel crimped yarn and polyurethane elastic fiber, which is characterized by heat treatment in a relaxed state to fix the shape and then elongation to eliminate loops and a portion of the eastern part of the intertwined part. obtained by Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail based on preferred examples shown in the drawings.

The polyester multifilament yarn supplied to the air injection nozzle mentioned here has a hot water shrinkage rate of 50% or less. Such yarn has a winding speed of 7000 m/
Using high speed spinning of 35 minutes or more, or spinning take-up speed of 35 minutes or more
00 m/min or more of undrawn yarn at room temperature by about 1.2 to 1.5 times, or hot drawing by setting the real bottle temperature to 30°C lower than the melting point of the supplied material, or The undrawn yarn obtained at a spinning winding speed of 1500 m/min was
It can be obtained by hot stretching at a stretching ratio of 2 times.

The entangling process with the air uR flow is carried out by means of a known injection nozzle used in the production of loop-entangled crimped yarns. Then, processing conditions such as air pressure, oat safe yield rate, nozzle shape, etc. are adjusted so that the degree of entanglement is such that loops and intertwined portions are eliminated by the elongation treatment after relaxation heat treatment, which will be described later.

The relaxation heat treatment is performed at the same time as or immediately after the entanglement treatment using the air jet flow described above, but for continuous treatment, it is preferably performed while the yarn is running using a heater. The type of heater may be either a contact type or a non-contact type, and this heat treatment increases the thermal stability of the yarn, but it also increases the interlace strength of the interlaced bundles and reduces the loop disappearance effect during the subsequent elongation process. It is essential to choose conditions that will not damage the

A suitable apparatus for carrying out the diagonal method is shown in FIG.

Starting material polyester multifilament undrawn yarn with a spinning winding speed of 3500 m/min (hot water shrinkage rate 50%,
(melting point 265°C) is from package A to stretching roller 1,
20 to a predetermined temperature via the hot bin 3,
That is, the yarn is drawn at a temperature below (melting point -30° C.) of the supplied material and above room temperature, resulting in a drawn yarn having a hot water shrinkage rate of 50% or less. The yarn exiting the drawing roller 2 is introduced into a known air injection nozzle 4, and is oat-fed between the rollers 2 and 5, so that it undergoes an entangling process, resulting in loops and fluff. The overfeed rate is preferably 6 to 30%, and the air pressure used is 3 to 7 kg/cId, although it depends on the characteristics of the feed material and the kneading speed. Next, the yarn is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment by a heater 7 while being overfed between rollers 5 and 6, and its shape is heat-set.

The yarn tension in the heater is 0. The automatic feed rate is set to be less than III/d.

Note that this relaxation heat treatment can also be performed at the same time as the entangling polishing using the air jet flow using hot air. Next, the yarn is stretched between rollers 6 and 8 while underfeeding, whereby some of the loops and entangled convergence parts generated during the entangling process are pulled out and erased, causing potential crimp. become The tension in the stretching process is 0. ! l/
d or less, and the injection nozzle, air pressure, injection feed rate, relaxation heat treatment temperature, underfeed rate, etc. are adjusted so that a part of the entangled condensation part is stretched and erased.

Finally, it is ticked up on the winding drum 9 as a note B.

If the drawing temperature of the undrawn yarn is (melting point -30°C) or higher,
It is undesirable that inter-filament fusion occurs and the opening and entanglement of the filaments in the injection area causes a loss of light.

Overfeed rate of air injection nozzle entangling process is 6%
Below this, the filaments will not be opened enough, the entanglement will be insufficient, the number of crimps in the resulting crimped yarn will be small, and the snaking phenomenon of the polyurethane elastic fibers knitted at the same time will increase, which is undesirable.

On the other hand, when the O79 feed rate is 30% or more, loop fuzz occurs frequently, entanglement is strong, entanglement removal is insufficient in the elongation treatment after relaxation heat treatment, and there are few constricted portions and residual loops. There will be more fluff. If this thread and polyurethane elastic fiber are knitted simultaneously, the surface of the fabric will become unclear and the gloss will be insufficient, which is not preferable.

If the tension in the relaxation heat treatment heater exceeds 0.11/d, the entanglement fixation will not be strong, the interlacement cannot be erased by the elongation process between the rollers 6 and 8, and a large amount of loop fuzz will remain. , the number of entangled parts increases, resulting in poor gloss on the surface of the stretchable warp knitted fabric with the polyurethane elastic aw1 knitted at the same time.

The relaxation heat treatment is carried out at a temperature of 150° C. or higher and lower than the melting point at which the filament entanglement can be fixed in shape.

Next, the elongation treatment tension after the relaxation heat treatment was 0.5.97d.
It is preferable to eliminate the intertwined portions with a tension below, preferably below 0,3&/d. If the elongation treatment is performed at a rate of 0.5.9/d or more, the filament will break and cant fuzz will occur, which is not preferable. As described above, it is necessary to set the supply system treatment, injection, relaxation heat treatment conditions, etc. so that the elongation treatment tension is 0.5.97 d or less.

The uninvented yarn thus obtained is a non-swirling crimped yarn that does not have large looseness and instead has fine crimps, and has a diving shrinkage of 50 or less.

i45 elongation rate is 20% or less and crimp shape factor is 0.
It is a non-turning crimped yarn with a non-torque random clip of 5 or less. In addition, the number of interlaced convergence parts where each constituent filament is intertwined and focused is in the range of 10 to 40 pieces/m, and the length of the crimped part other than the eastern part of the interlaced fruit is in the range of 5 to 7011 m, and each interlace It has a novel configuration in which there are 0 to 2 small loops with a length of I11 or less in the section. An outline of the form of this thread is shown in FIG. In the figure, reference numeral 11 is a constituent filament, 12 is an entangled convergence section, and 13 is a Fi loop.

〔Example〕

The invention will be further explained by examples. In addition, the elastic warp knitted fabric in the examples was evaluated by the following method.

Water production shrinkage rate: Based on the "rIs Lxor3-6-121 hot water shrinkage rate" measuring method.

Crimp elongation rate: Based on the JI8 L1077-5-7rm crimp contraction rate measurement method.

Number of crimp: According to JI8L1074-6-11-1 r crimp number measurement method.

Number and length of entangled convergence parts: An initial load of 1 g/d is applied to the yarn to be tested, and marks are made at two points on the top and bottom of a yarn length of 50 cm. Next, the multifilament yarn was divided into two at the upper mark point, hung with a 30I hook, and allowed to fall under its own weight.
At the point where it stopped, move the hook directly below it and make it 50
Repeat over the entire length. The number of stopping points corresponds to the number of confounding convergence parts. Also, measure the length at that point and use it as the length of the core.

Example 1 A pancage of polyester multifilament yarns of 50 d/36 f was formed at a spinning winding speed of 7000 m/min, and this was carried out using the apparatus shown in FIG. ! Shrinking was performed. Processing conditions are processing speed 600m/min, air injection pressure 5.0
kg/do, injection overfeed rate +13.0%
, the relaxation heat treatment oat feed rate was -0.5%, the heat setting temperature was 210°C, and the elongation treatment underfeed rate was -8%.

The crimped yarn characteristics of the obtained crimped yarn were as follows:
The length of each crimp part is 15-16U, crimp elongation rate is 1
．． 5%, compression number 9 pieces/inch, crimp shape factor 0
．． It was 17.

This yarn and polyurethane elastic fiber 40d were knitted into a 2-way fabric using a tricont knitting machine, and dyed and finished to obtain a sample. The obtained fabric has good elasticity, has the same luster as the yarn used, and has no peeling of the polyurethane elastic fibers knitted at the same time, and is a stretchable warp knitted fabric with a soft texture. Ta.

Example 2 An undrawn yarn package of polyester multifilament yarns 110d/36f was formed at a spinning winding speed of 3500 m/min, and this was crimped using the apparatus 1 shown in FIG. The processing conditions were a processing speed of s o om/G and a stretching ratio of 1.46. Hot pin temperature 180℃, air injection pressure 5.5 to 9/iG, injection overfeed rate +12
．． 0%, relaxation heat treatment O/S feed rate was 0 壬, heat setting temperature was 210°C, and elongation treatment underfeed rate was -9%.

The crimped yarn properties of the mail-relaxed crimped yarn obtained were as follows. The convergent convergence part is present at a rate of 28-30 pieces/m, and the length of the % constriction part is 17-IBm, respectively.
tt,? ! One set has an elongation rate of 2% and a crimp count of 10 pieces/inch.
The crimp shape factor was 0.20.

This yarn and polyurethane elastic fiber 420d were knitted into a 6-course satin net fabric using a Raschel knitting machine, and dyed and finished to obtain a sample.

The obtained fabric has good elasticity, has the same luster as the original yarn, and is a stretchy warp-knitted fabric with no snags and a soft texture. Met.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted with the crimped yarn and polyurethane elastic fibers of the present invention has a luster similar to that of the raw yarn compared to conventional similar fabrics, and the polyurethane elastic fibers knitted at the same time have a luster similar to that of the raw yarn. The texture and texture of the fabric have been changed, giving it a softer texture. In addition, the company's yarn can be used as a cross-knit warp knitted fabric with polyurethane elastic fibers to improve elasticity and the peeling and snaking of the inter-knit polyurethane elastic fibers, making it possible to reduce the fabric weight. It is.

Furthermore, by changing the processing conditions in the a concave circle described in section IV, the performance of the yarn can be controlled arbitrarily, so by combining yarns with different performances and simultaneously knitting with polyurethane elastic fibers, It is also possible to obtain a pattern effect.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged view showing the form of the crimped yarn according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an example of an apparatus suitable for producing the crimped yarn according to the present invention. ! , 2... [Extension roller, 3... Real pin, 4...
・Volume injection nozzle, 5, 6, 8...roller, 7...
Heater, 9... Winding drum, 11... Filament, 12... Cross x6 bundle part. Patent applicant: Asahi Kasei Kokurikyushiki Company

Claims (1)

[Claims] It has an interlaced convergence part and a crimp part in the yarn length direction, and has a crimp elongation rate (C
The clip shape factor defined by E)/number of crimps (N) is 0.
．． Stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted with non-rollable crimped yarn made of polyester fiber multifilament having a molecular weight of 5 or less and polyurethane elastic yarn