JP7315306B2 - clothing - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an environmentally friendly water-repellent fabric having excellent water repellency, and to clothing using the water-repellent fabric.

Conventionally, fabrics with water repellency have been demanded in fields such as sports clothing, casual clothing, and umbrella fabrics, and water repellent agents such as fluorine-based water repellent agents have been attached to the fabric (see, for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2).

In recent years, in consideration of the environment, fabrics using non-fluorine water repellents that do not use compounds that may affect living organisms (for example, perfluorooctanoic acid, perfluorooctanesulfonic acid, etc.) have been proposed. (See Patent Document 3, for example)

JP-A-60-94645 JP-A-61-70043 JP 2017-145521 A

The present invention has been made in view of the above background, and its object is to provide a water-repellent fabric that is environmentally friendly and has excellent water repellency, and clothing that uses the water-repellent fabric.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention have found that when a non-fluorine-based water repellent agent is applied to a fabric, when a fabric in which a composite yarn containing a false twisted crimped yarn having torque in the S direction and a false twisted crimped yarn having torque in the Z direction is arranged in at least one of the warp and weft, fine lotus leaf-like unevenness is formed on the fabric surface, resulting in excellent water repellency. Further, the present invention has been completed through further intensive studies.

Thus, according to the present invention, "a water-repellent fabric obtained by attaching a hydrocarbon-based compound or a silicone-based compound to a fabric, wherein the water-repellent fabric comprises a composite yarn containing a false-twisted crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false-twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction.
The composite yarn has a torque of 30 T/m or less,
In the composite yarn, the entanglement is given in the range of 30 to 90 entanglements/m,
In the composite yarn, the single fiber fineness is 1 dtex or less, the number of filaments is 50 or more, and the crimp rate is within the range of 16 to 60%,
The fabric has a cover factor CF in the range of 1500 to 4000,
The water repellent rolling angle of the fabric is 17 degrees or less,
Water repellency measured by JIS L 1092 spray method is grade 4 or higher,
A garment having a water repellency of grade 3 or higher as measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method after washing 10 times as specified in JIS L0217 (using a JAFET standard detergent). ” is provided.
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp/1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf/1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the warp total fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weaving density (number/2.54 cm), DWf
is the weft total fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weaving density (thread/2.54 cm). ]

In this case, it is preferable that the woven fabric is calendered and lotus leaf-like fine irregularities are formed on the woven fabric surface. In addition, the bulkiness of the woven fabric, measured according to JIS L 1096, is preferably 1.30 or more.

ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the water-repellent woven fabric which is environmentally friendly and has excellent water repellency, and clothes using the water-repellent woven fabric can be obtained.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail. First, a hydrocarbon-based compound or a silicone-based compound is attached to the water-repellent fabric of the present invention. Specifically, aliphatic hydrocarbons, aliphatic carboxylic acids, olefins, polyacrylic acid esters, polymethacrylic acid esters, and the like can be used as hydrocarbon compounds. Amino-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, carboxy-modified silicone and the like can be used as the silicone-based compound. Preferred examples of commercially available hydrocarbon compounds include Neoseed NR-158 and NR-7080 manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., and Unidyne XF5001 and XF5002 manufactured by Daikin. Preferred examples of silicone compounds include Neoseed NR-8000 manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.

The water repellent fabric of the present invention includes a composite yarn comprising a false twisted crimped yarn A having torque in the S direction and a false twisted crimped yarn B having torque in the Z direction. When such a composite yarn is included in the fabric, lotus leaf-like fine unevenness is formed on the fabric surface, thereby obtaining excellent water repellency.

Here, the conditions for the false twist crimp processing include a method in which the yarn is twisted by a twisting device through a first roller and a heat treatment heater with a set temperature of 90 to 220 ° C. (more preferably 100 to 190 ° C.), and a method in which the yarn is further introduced into a second heater region as necessary after the twisting and subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. The draw ratio during false twisting is preferably in the range of 0.8 to 1.5. Further, in the formula of false twist number (T/m)=(32500/√Dtex)×α, α=0.5 to 1.5 is preferable. In particular, α=0.8 to 1.2 is preferred. As the twisting device to be used, a disk-type or belt-type friction twisting device is preferable because it facilitates threading and reduces thread breakage. A pin type twisting device may also be used.

In addition, when the composite yarn is obtained by aligning the false twisted crimped yarn A having torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn B having torque in the Z direction, interlacing (entangling treatment) is performed at a number of interlaces of 30 to 90 pieces/m (more preferably 40 to 80 pieces/m). Furthermore, if the composite yarn is subjected to such an interlacing process, the weavability of the woven fabric is also excellent, which is preferable. The interlacing process (interlacing process) may be performed using a normal interlace nozzle. Moreover, in the composite yarn, the torque is preferably 30 T/m or less, and most preferably no torque (0 T/m). In order to make it torque-free in this way, when the false twisted crimped yarn A having torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn B in the Z direction are combined, two types of false twisted crimped yarns having the same torque except that the direction of torque is different may be used.

Further, the false twisted crimped yarn A and the false twisted crimped yarn B may be different from each other in single fiber fineness, single fiber cross-sectional shape, and the like.

In addition, when the crimp rate of the composite yarn is 16% or more (more preferably 16 to 60%), lotus leaf-like fine unevenness is easily formed on the surface of the fabric, so excellent water repellency is obtained, which is preferable. If the crimp ratio is less than 13%, sufficient water repellency may not be obtained.
In the composite yarn, the single yarn fineness is preferably 1 dtex or less (more preferably 0.001 to 1.0 dtex, still more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 dtex, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.4 dtex) in order to form lotus leaf-like fine unevenness on the fabric surface. Ultrafine fibers called nanofibers having a single fiber diameter of 1 μm or less may also be used. If the single yarn fineness is larger than 1 dtex, there is a possibility that sufficient water repellency cannot be obtained.

Also, the total fineness of the composite yarn is preferably within the range of 33 to 220 dtex. Furthermore, the number of filaments in the composite yarn is preferably 50 or more (more preferably 50 to 10,000, particularly preferably 50 to 300) to obtain excellent water repellency.

Polyester-based fibers made of polyester are preferable as the fibers constituting the composite yarn in order to obtain excellent water repellency. Examples of such polyesters include terephthalic acid as the main acid component and at least one glycol selected from the group consisting of alkylene glycols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that is, ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol, particularly preferably ethylene glycol as the main glycol component.
Such polyesters may optionally contain a small amount (usually 30 mol % or less) of a copolymer component. Examples of bifunctional carboxylic acids other than terephthalic acid used in this case include aromatic, aliphatic, and alicyclic bifunctional carboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethanedicarboxylic acid, β-hydroxyethoxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. Examples of diol compounds other than the above glycols include aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diol compounds such as cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A and bisphenol S, and polyoxyalkylene glycols.

The polyester may be synthesized by any method. For example, in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, it is produced by a first-stage reaction in which terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol are directly esterified, a lower alkyl ester of terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate is transesterified with ethylene glycol, or a terephthalic acid and ethylene oxide are reacted to form a glycol ester of terephthalic acid and/or a low polymer thereof, and the first-stage reaction product is heated under reduced pressure to undergo a polycondensation reaction to a desired degree of polymerization. Anything that has been done is fine. Moreover, the polyester may be material-recycled or chemical-recycled polyester. Furthermore, the polyester may be an aliphatic polyester such as polylactic acid or stereocomplex polylactic acid.

If necessary, the polyester may contain one or more of a matting agent (titanium dioxide), a micropore-forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a coloring inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), a fluorescent brightening agent, a coloring pigment, an antistatic agent (sulfonic acid metal salt), a moisture absorbent (polyoxyalkylene glycol), an antibacterial agent, and other inorganic particles.

In the water-repellent fabric of the present invention, the composite yarn is arranged in at least one of warp and weft (preferably warp and weft). Here, it is preferable that the composite yarn is contained in an amount of 70% by weight or more (particularly preferably 100% by weight) relative to the total weight of the fabric. In addition, it is essential that the present invention have a woven structure. In the case of a knitted fabric, there is a possibility that excellent water repellency cannot be obtained, which is not preferable.

The water-repellent fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method. First, a composite yarn is obtained by using a false twisted crimped yarn A having torque in the S direction and a false twisted crimped yarn B having torque in the Z direction. At that time, as the method of compositing, any of air mixed fibers such as interlace processing and Taslan (registered trademark) processing, composite false twisting, plied twisting, and covering may be used. Among them, interlacing (entanglement treatment) is preferable as described above in order to form fine lotus-leaf-shaped irregularities on the surface of the fabric and obtain water repellency.

The composite yarn is then used to weave a fabric. At that time, the texture of the woven fabric is not particularly limited. For example, there are three-fold weaves such as plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, transitional weaves, single-double weaves such as warp double weave and weft double weave, and warp velvet. The number of layers may be either a single layer or multiple layers of two or more layers. The weaving method may be a normal weaving method using a normal loom (for example, normal water jet loom, air jet loom, rapier loom, etc.).

The fabric is then treated to be water repellent. Here, as described above, a non-fluorine-based water repellent containing a hydrocarbon-based compound or a silicone-based compound is used. If necessary, an antistatic agent, a melamine resin, and a catalyst are mixed to form a finishing agent having a water repellent concentration of about 3 to 15% by weight, and the surface of the fabric is treated with the finishing agent at a pick-up rate of about 50 to 90%. A pad method, a spray method, etc. are illustrated as a method of treating the surface of a textile with a processing agent. Among them, the pad method is preferable in order to allow the processing agent to permeate into the interior of the woven fabric. The pickup rate is the weight ratio (%) of the finishing agent to the weight of the fabric (before application of the finishing agent).

The antistatic agent is preferably a polyester resin containing a polyethylene glycol group, a urethane resin containing a polyethylene glycol group, a reaction product of a polycationic compound containing a polyethylene glycol group and a diglycidyl ether, or the like. Anionic surfactants such as higher alcohol sulfate salts, sulfated oils, sulfonates, and phosphate ester salts; cationic surfactants such as amine salt types, quaternary ammonium salts, imidaline type quaternary salts; polyethylene glycol types; polyhydric alcohol ester types; nonionic surfactants;

In addition, if the anionic compound is fixed before the water repellent treatment, the adhesiveness of the cationic water repellent agent is improved, and the durability is improved. Compounds having anionic properties include sulfone group-containing compounds and phenolic compounds.

The heat treatment for polymerization of the monomer is preferably at least one of dry heat treatment and wet heat treatment at a temperature of 50 to 180° C. for 0.1 to 30 minutes. It may be a steam treatment. In such a steaming treatment, saturated steam or superheated steam at 80 to 160° C. is preferably used. In that case, the treatment time is preferably in the range of several seconds to several tens of minutes. After such steaming treatment, water washing, hot water washing, or reduction washing may be carried out as necessary.

In addition, if the woven fabric is calendered in at least one of the pre-process and post-process of the water-repellent finishing process, the woven fabric surface tends to be shaped like a lotus leaf, and excellent water repellency can be obtained, which is preferable. At that time, the calendering conditions are preferably a temperature of 130° C. or higher (more preferably 140 to 195° C.) and a linear pressure of 200 to 20000 N/cm (more preferably 200 to 1000 N/cm).

Further, in at least one of the pre-process and post-process of the water-repellent finishing process, a conventional dyeing process, alkali weight reduction process, and raising process may be performed. Furthermore, an ultraviolet shielding agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a phosphorescent agent, a retroreflection agent, a negative ion generator, etc. may be additionally applied.

In such a woven fabric, it is preferable that the cover factor CF of the woven fabric defined by the following formula is in the range of 1500 to 4000, because more excellent water repellency can be obtained.
CF = (DWp/1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf/1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
However, DWp is the warp total fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weaving density (ply/2.54 cm), DWf is the weft total fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weaving density (ply/2.54 cm).

Further, in such a woven fabric, it is preferable that the woven fabric has a bulkiness of 1.30 or more (more preferably 1.50 to 2.00) as measured by JIS L 1096, because more excellent water repellency can be obtained.

The water-repellent fabric thus obtained has a hydrocarbon-based compound or a silicone-based compound adhered thereto, so that the water-repellent fabric is an environmentally friendly fabric. At the same time, since the composite yarn is included in the fabric, lotus leaf-like fine unevenness is formed on the surface of the water-repellent fabric. Since minute air layers are formed by the lotus-leaf-like fine unevenness, excellent water repellency is exhibited when water droplets are placed on the surface of the fabric. This effect is sometimes called the lotus effect.

In this case, the water repellent roll angle of the fabric is preferably 25 degrees or less (more preferably 22 degrees or less, particularly preferably 5 to 22 degrees).

However, the water-repellent rolling angle is the angle at which 0.2 cc of water is gently dropped on a flat sample to be measured mounted on a horizontal plate, the flat plate is gently tilted at a constant speed, and the water drops begin to roll.

Next, the garment of the present invention is a garment using the fabric described above. Since the garment of the present invention uses the above fabric, it is environmentally friendly and has excellent water repellency. Such clothing includes down clothing, badminton shirts, running shirts, soccer pants, tennis pants, basketball pants, table tennis pants, badminton pants, running pants, golf pants, undershirts for various sports, innerwear for various sports, sweaters, T-shirts, jerseys, trainers, windbreakers, jackets, and the like.

In addition, since the above-mentioned fabric is an environmentally friendly fabric and has excellent water repellency, it is suitable not only for clothing but also for umbrella fabrics, raincoat fabrics, shoes, hats, futon side fabrics, futon covers, etc.

Examples and comparative examples of the present invention will now be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited to these. Each measurement item in the examples was measured by the following method.
(1) Torque A sample (crimped yarn) of about 70 cm was horizontally stretched, and after hanging an initial load of 0.18 mN×display tex (2 mg/de) at the center, both ends were aligned.
The yarn started to rotate due to the residual torque, but it was held in that state until the initial load stopped, and a twisted yarn was obtained. The number of twists of a 25 cm length of the twisted yarn thus obtained was measured with a twist detector under a load of 17.64 mN×display tex (0.2 g/de). The torque (T/m) was calculated by multiplying the obtained number of twists (T/25 cm) by four.
(2) Number of interlaces (entangled) A 1-m length of the entangled yarn was taken under a load of 8.82 mN x display tex (0.1 g/de), and after unloading, the number of knot points after contraction at room temperature for 24 hours was read and displayed in units/m.
(3) Crimp Rate A skein having a dry fineness of 3333 dtex was prepared by winding the test yarn around a measuring machine having a circumference of 1.125 m. The skein was suspended from hanging nails of the scale plate, an initial load of 6 g was applied to the lower portion thereof, and the length L0 of the skein when a further load of 600 g was added was measured. Immediately thereafter, the load is removed from the skein, the hanging nails of the scale plate are removed, and the skein is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to develop crimps. After the boiling water treatment, the skein was removed from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein was removed by absorption with filter paper, and the skein was air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. The air-dried skein was suspended from the hanging nail of the scale plate, and a load of 600 g was applied to the lower part thereof, and the length L1a of the skein was measured after 1 minute. The crimp rate (CP) of the test filament yarn was calculated by the following formula.
CP (%) = ((L1a-L2a)/L0) x 100
(4) Stretchability Stretchability (%) was measured according to JIS L 1096 B method.
(5) Fabric Thickness The fabric thickness (mm) was measured according to JIS L1096.
(6) Fabric weight The fabric weight (g/m ² ) was measured according to JIS L1096.
(7) Bulkiness of woven fabric The bulkiness of the woven fabric was measured according to JIS L1096.
(8) Cover factor The cover factor CF of the woven fabric was calculated by the following formula.
CF = (DWp/1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf/1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
However, DWp is the warp total fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weaving density (ply/2.54 cm), DWf is the weft total fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weaving density (ply/2.54 cm).
(9) Water repellency (water repellent rolling angle)
0.2 cc of water was gently dropped on a flat sample to be measured placed on a horizontal plate, and the flat plate was gently tilted at a constant speed. Note that the smaller the water repellent rolling angle, the better the water repellency, and 25 degrees or less is accepted.
(10) Water repellency The water repellency (grade) was measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method.

[Example 1]
Polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun at 280° C. from a conventional spinning apparatus, taken up at a speed of 2800 m/min, and wound without stretching to obtain a half-stretched polyethylene terephthalate filament of 56 dtex/36 fil. Then, the polyethylene terephthalate yarn was subjected to simultaneous draw and false twist crimping under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T/m (S direction), a heater temperature of 180° C., and a yarn speed of 350 m/min. Further, the polyethylene terephthalate yarn was subjected to simultaneous drawing and false twisting crimping under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.6 times, a false twist number of 2500 T/m (Z direction), a heater temperature of 180°C and a yarn speed of 350 m/min.

Next, the false twisted crimped yarn having torque in the S direction and the false twisted crimped yarn in the Z direction were interlaced (entangled) to obtain a composite yarn (66 dtex/72 fil, crimp rate 16%, torque 0 T/m). The interlacing process was carried out by using an interlace nozzle with an overfeed rate of 1.0% and a compressed air pressure of 0.3 MPa (3 kgf/cm ² ) to impart 50 pieces/m of interlace (entanglement).

Next, the composite yarn was arranged in the warp and the weft, and a plain weave fabric (fabric composed only of the composite yarn) was woven using a normal water jet loom.

Next, after spreading and scouring the fabric using a U-shaped softer at 95° C., it was subjected to relaxation treatment at a temperature of 120° C. using a jet dyeing machine. The fabric was then mid-set at a temperature of 190°C using a tenter. Next, after dyeing with a disperse dye at a temperature of 130° C. using a jet dyeing machine, the following water-repellent finishing was applied. For the water repellent finishing, the following finishing agent was used, the liquid was squeezed at a pick-up rate of 80%, dried at 130°C for 3 minutes, and then heat treated at 170°C for 45 seconds.
<Processing agent composition>
・Non-fluorine water repellent agent 5.0 wt%
(Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., Neoseed NR-7080, hydrocarbon compound)
・Melamine resin 0.3 wt%
(Sumitex Resin M-3, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
・Catalyst 0.3 wt%
(Sumitex Accelerator ACX manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
・Water 94.4 wt%
The fabric was then final set at a temperature of 170°C using a tenter. Then, the woven fabric was calendered at a roll temperature of 150° C. and a linear pressure of 300 N/cm to obtain a water-repellent woven fabric.

The water-repellent fabric thus obtained had a thickness of 0.14 mm, a basis weight of 90 g/m ² , a bulkiness of 1.65, a warp density of 131/2.54 cm, a weft density of 111/2.54 cm, a cover factor of 1874, a weft stretchability of 7%, and a rolling angle of 17 degrees. The surface of the water-repellent fabric had fine lotus leaf-shaped unevenness, and the water-repellent fabric had a water repellency of grade 4, and a water repellency of grade 3 after washing 10 times according to JIS L0217 (using a JAFET standard detergent). In addition, since the water repellent agent is adhered to the water repellent fabric, the water repellent fabric is environmentally friendly. A windbreaker (sports clothing) was sewn from this water-repellent fabric, and the windbreaker was worn by a tester.

[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, the procedure was the same as in Example 1, except that the false twisted crimped yarn (56 dtex/72 fil, crimp rate 14%, torque 45 T/m) made of polyethylene terephthalate was arranged as a single yarn in the warp and weft yarns without being made into a composite yarn. The resulting water-repellent fabric had a thickness of 0.10 mm, a basis weight of 77 g/m ² , a bulkiness of 1.15, a warp density of 147 lines/2.54 cm, a weft density of 118/2.54 cm, a cover factor of 1873, a weft stretchability of 4%, and a rolling angle of 27 degrees. Although the water-repellent fabric was an environmentally friendly fabric, the water repellency was grade 3.5, and the water repellency was grade 2 after 10 washes specified by JIS L0217 (using JAFET standard detergent), indicating poor water repellency. Moreover, when a windbreaker (sports clothing) was sewn from this woven fabric and worn by a tester, the windbreaker was found to be inferior in water repellency.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain an environmentally friendly water-repellent fabric having excellent water-repellency, and clothing made from the water-repellent fabric, which is of great industrial value.

Claims (3)

A water-repellent fabric obtained by attaching a hydrocarbon-based compound or a silicone-based compound to a fabric, the fabric comprising a composite yarn containing a false-twisted crimped yarn A having a torque in the S direction and a false-twisted crimped yarn B having a torque in the Z direction.
The composite yarn has a torque of 30 T/m or less,
In the composite yarn, the entanglement is given in the range of 30 to 90 entanglements/m,
In the composite yarn, the single fiber fineness is 1 dtex or less, the number of filaments is 50 or more, and the crimp rate is within the range of 16 to 60%,
The fabric has a cover factor CF in the range of 1500 to 4000,
The water repellent rolling angle of the fabric is 17 degrees or less,
Water repellency measured by JIS L 1092 spray method is grade 4 or higher,
A garment having a water repellency of grade 3 or higher as measured by the JIS L 1092 spray method after washing 10 times as specified in JIS L0217 (using a JAFET standard detergent).
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp/1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf/1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the warp total fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weaving density (number/2.54 cm), DWf
is the weft total fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weaving density (thread/2.54 cm). ] 2. The garment according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is calendered and lotus leaf-like fine unevenness is formed on the woven fabric surface. 3. The clothing according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has a bulkiness of 1.30 or more as measured by JIS L 1096.