JP7014396B2 - Oil-based solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent hardness change and temperature resistance over time and excellent elongation at the time of application.

As oil-based solid cosmetics, for example, lipsticks, lip glosses, lip creams, foundations, stick foundations, pencil-type cosmetics, hair sticks, oil-based eye shadows and the like are known. Oil-based solid cosmetics are composed mainly of solid oils and liquid oils, and their contents and components have been studied in order to obtain various usability and cosmetic effects. However, since oil-based solid cosmetics are composed of solid oil and liquid oil, sweating phenomenon is likely to occur due to changes in hardness and temperature over time. When the hardness changes over time, the shape tends to collapse during use, and it becomes difficult to apply an appropriate amount. In addition, when a sweating phenomenon occurs due to a temperature change, the appearance is deteriorated and the commercial value is significantly impaired. Therefore, a prescription study is being conducted to improve the usability while making these improvements. For example, a combination of methylphenyl silicone that separates when mixed at 25 ° C. and a special polyglyceryl isostearate (Patent Document 1), a combination of liquid oil that separates into three phases (Patent Document 2), and 12 to 200 carbon atoms. By combining a polymer compound having a hydrocarbon group having a branched chain in the molecule (Patent Document 3), an oil-based solid cosmetic having good stability and excellent durability of cosmetics has been provided.

Further, a technique for containing a specially shaped flaky aggregate powder in an oil-based solid cosmetic for a good oil-based solid cosmetic such as usability, shape retention during use, and temperature stability over time (Patent Document 4). In addition, a technique containing an inulin fatty acid ester (Patent Document 5) has also been used in order to provide an oily solid cosmetic having good elongation.

In the techniques of Patent Documents 1 and 2, the liquid oil phase is separated to prevent secondary adhesion and enhance the cosmetic lasting effect. These techniques use a combination of phenyl-modified silicone or the like and a liquid oil having low compatibility, and although a secondary adhesion-less effect can be obtained, the liquid oil phase becomes non-uniform, resulting in gloss. It is difficult to obtain a beautiful and uniform finish, and there is a tendency for the hardness to change over time and the temperature resistance to deteriorate.

Further, in the technique of combining polyethylene wax, high-viscosity hydrocarbon oil, and powder having a specific shape as in Patent Documents 3 and 4, although the stability at high temperature is very excellent, the elongation becomes heavy and the viscosity is high. There is a problem that a high content of hydrocarbons deteriorates the usability such as spinnability. Further, as in Patent Document 5, although the inulin fatty acid ester improves the stability over time, there is a problem that the smoothness of elongation at the time of coating is impaired when a high viscosity liquid hydrocarbon oil is contained. there were.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-14479 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2016-56171 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2005-23004 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2009-196921 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2014-196259

An object of the present invention is to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent hardness change over time, excellent temperature resistance, and excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application.

As a result of repeated studies in view of the above circumstances, the inventors of the present application have produced an oily solid cosmetic containing phenyl-modified silicone resin, (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters and hydrogenated polyisobutene over time. We have found that it is excellent in hardness change and temperature resistance, and is excellent in smoothness of elongation at the time of coating, and has completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention has the following components (A) to (C);
(A) Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid 1 to 15% by weight
(B) (Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) Esters 5 to 20% by weight
(C) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 30-50% by weight
It is an oil-based solid cosmetic containing.

The present invention is an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent hardness change and temperature resistance over time and excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application.

Hereinafter, the invention of the present application will be described in detail.
The component (A) phenyl-modified silicone resin used in the present invention is largely different from phenyl-modified silicone oil and phenyl-modified silicone rubber in which the siloxane bond is made of a linear polymer, among the phenyl-modified silicones usually used in cosmetics. Unlike, any silicone resin that is made of a three-dimensional polymer with a high degree of branching and in which at least a part of the methyl group of the dimethylsiloxane skeleton is replaced with a phenyl group is sufficient, and any one that is usually used for cosmetics. Can also be used.

Among the phenyl-modified silicone resins, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid is preferable because of its effect on changes in hardness over time, availability, and safety. Examples of commercially available products of phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid include "SilShine 151" manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials.

The content of the component (A) phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 15% by weight. If it is less than 1% by weight, the effect of suppressing the change in hardness and sweating over time and the effect of excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application may not be sufficiently obtained. There is no enhancement of the effect of suppressing changes, and there may be problems with usability.

The component (B) (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters used in the present invention enhances the uniformity of the coating film by enhancing the adhesion of the oil-based solid cosmetics, and is similar to hydrogenated polyisobutene. It is contained for the purpose of suppressing the stickiness of high-viscosity liquid oil, smoothing the elongation, and obtaining an excellent usability. Examples of commercially available products of (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters include "S-face VL-212" manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.

The content of the component (B) (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5 to 20% by weight. If it is less than 5% by weight, the effect of excellent elongation smoothness at the time of application may not be sufficiently obtained, and even if it exceeds 20% by weight, the effect of further excellent elongation smoothness is not enhanced. There may be a problem with the usability.

The component (C) hydrogenated polyisobutene used in the present invention is a liquid hydrocarbon, which is a liquid oil obtained by hydrogenating a copolymer of isobutene and n-butene. Hydrogenated polyisobutene includes volatile and non-volatile liquid oils. Examples of commercially available non-volatile hydrogenated polyisobutene include pearl reame 18, pearl reame 24, pearl reame 46 and the like (all manufactured by NOF CORPORATION).

The content of the component (C) hydrogenated polyisobutene used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30 to 50% by weight. If it is less than 30% by weight, the effect of suppressing the change in hardness and sweating over time may not be sufficiently obtained, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, the effect of suppressing the change in hardness and sweating over time is not enhanced. There may be a problem with the usability.

The kinematic viscosity of the component (C) hydrogenated polyisobutene used in the present invention at 100 ° C. is not particularly limited, but is preferably 2.5 to 4,700 mm ² / s. This is because the kinematic viscosity in this range is excellent in hardness change and temperature resistance with time of the present invention, and the effect of excellent elongation smoothness at the time of coating is most exhibited. If the kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C is less than 2.5 mm ² / s, the effect of suppressing hardness change and sweating over time may not be sufficiently obtained, and even if it exceeds 4,700 mm ² / s over time. There is no enhancement of the effect of suppressing the change in hardness and sweating, and there may be a problem in usability. The kinematic viscosity of the present invention at 100 ° C. is measured by the test method of JIS K2283.

According to the present invention, if the components (A) to (C) are contained, it is possible to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic having excellent hardness change and temperature resistance over time and excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application.

In addition to the essential components, the oil-based solid cosmetics of the present invention include various components, such as oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, organic acids, alcohols, and ethers, as necessary, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. , Esters, silicone oils, fluorine oils, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, polymers, surfactants, powders, coloring materials, pearls, plant / seaweed extracts, amino acids / peptides / proteins, vitamins, UV absorbers, sterilizers / Preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances and the like can be appropriately contained in order to impart various effects.

Examples of the oil-based solid cosmetics of the present invention include lipsticks, lip colors, lip glosses, lip creams, foundations, stick foundations, pencil-type cosmetics, hair sticks, and oil-based eye shadows. In particular, when the present invention is used for lip cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip colors, lip balms, and lip glosses, the effects of excellent changes in hardness over time and temperature resistance, and excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application are particularly effective. It will be demonstrated.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The content shall be% by weight unless otherwise specified.

Verification of the effect of the invention with a lipstick (Examples 1 to 20 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6)
The effects of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples 1 to 20 below. Lipsticks (φ12 mm) were manufactured by the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 4 and the manufacturing methods shown below. The stability over time (change in hardness over time), temperature resistance (change in shape due to temperature change (breaking, sweating, etc.)) and usability (smoothness at the time of application at 25 ° C.) were evaluated for each of the obtained samples. The test and evaluation method for stability over time, temperature resistance, and usability are shown below.

・ Stability over time (change in hardness over time)
For stability over time, the hardness was measured after allowing the sample to stand in an incubator programmed in a 6-hour cycle of -4 ° C to 40 ° C for 1 month at 20 ° C for 24 hours. The hardness change from the initial hardness (hardness after molding and leaving at 20 ° C. for 24 hours) was judged in four stages of ⊚ to ×. The hardness here is the peak value of stress (unit: g) when a FUDOH leometer RT-3002D (manufactured by Leotech Co., Ltd.) is used and a φ1 mm adapter is inserted into a sample (lipstick) at a speed of 20 cm / min. ).
(Status): (Judgment)
Hardness change is less than 10%: ◎
Hardness change is 10% or more and less than 25%: ○
Hardness change is 25% or more and less than 50%: △
Hardness change is 50% or more: ×
The results obtained by the above evaluation methods are also shown in Tables 1 to 4.

・ Temperature resistance (shape change due to temperature change (breaking, sweating, etc.))
The temperature resistance was measured by using a temperature / humidity controller (AGX-325 type manufactured by Toyo Engineering Works, Ltd.), raising the temperature from 40 ° C to 66 ° C by 2 ° C every 30 minutes, and measuring the temperature at which the shape collapsed. When the shape could be maintained up to 66 ° C, it was described as 66 ° C ↑.
The obtained results are also shown in Tables 1 to 4.

-Usability (smoothness when applied at 25 ° C)
For usability, the sample was left in an incubator at 25 ° C. for 24 hours, and the sample was applied to the lips for sensory evaluation. Ten expert panels evaluated and scored in 7 stages by the following absolute evaluation, calculated the average value from the total score of all the panels for each sample, and judged according to the following 4 stage judgment criteria.
(Evaluation item)
Smooth usability when applied at 25 ° C (absolute evaluation)
(Score): (Evaluation)
6: Very good 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad 0: Very bad (judgment criteria)
(Average score) (Judgment)
Over 5 points: Very good: ◎
More than 3 points and 5 points or less: Excellent: ○
More than 1 point and 3 points or less: Inferior: △
1 point or less: Very inferior: ×
The results obtained by the above evaluation methods are also shown in Tables 1 to 4.

* 1: Lipwax A-4 (manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.)
* 2: Paraffin Wax 155 (manufactured by Nippon Seiro Co., Ltd.)
* 3: SILSHINE 151 (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)
* 4: KF-56A (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 5: Pearl Ream 18 (manufactured by NOF Corporation: kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C, 300 mm ² / s)
* 6: Pearl Ream 24 (manufactured by NOF Corporation: kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C, 800 mm ² / s)
* 7: S Face VL-212 (manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo)
* 8: Cosmall 168ARV
* 9: Pearl Dream EX (manufactured by NOF Corporation: kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C 2.5 mm ² / s)
* 10: Pearl Ream 46 (manufactured by NOF Corporation: kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C, 4,700 mm ² / s)
* 11: CARANTION (manufactured by SONNEBORN: kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C. 2.5 mm ² / s)

(Production method)
The colorant in part C was applied to a part of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate in part B and then dispersed in a roll mill. Parts A to C were heated and mixed at 95 to 100 ° C., defoamed, poured into a mold at 95 to 100 ° C., and cooled and molded into a container to obtain a lipstick (φ12 mm).

From Table 1, it was shown that in the present invention, the temperature resistance of the lipstick (oil-based solid cosmetics) is improved when the phenyl-modified silicone resin is contained. When the content of the phenyl-modified silicone resin was less than 1%, the stability over time tended to decrease slightly. Moreover, even if it was more than 15%, the effect of the present invention was not significantly increased. It was shown that when phenyl-modified silicone was used instead of phenyl-modified silicone resin, the stability over time deteriorated and the temperature resistance also decreased.

From Table 2, in the present invention, the inclusion of (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters improves the temporal stability, temperature resistance, and usability of the lipstick (oil-based solid cosmetics). Shown. When the content of (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters was less than 5%, the stability over time tended to decrease slightly. Moreover, when it was more than 20%, the usability tended to decrease slightly.
If (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters are replaced with hexa (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythrityl, stability over time, temperature resistance, and usability may deteriorate. Shown.

From Table 3, it was shown that in the present invention, the inclusion of hydrogenated polyisobutene improves the temporal stability, temperature resistance and usability of the lipstick (oil-based solid cosmetics). When the content of hydrogenated polyisobutene was less than 30%, the stability over time and the temperature resistance tended to decrease slightly. In addition, when it was more than 50%, the usability tended to decrease slightly.
It was shown that the temperature resistance deteriorated when liquid paraffin was used instead of hydrogenated polyisobutene.
It was also shown that even with hydrogenated polyisobutene, the effect of the present invention is more likely to be exhibited when the kinematic viscosity at 100 ° C. is in the range of 2.5 to 4,700 mm ² / s.

From Table 4, it was shown that in the present invention, when the total amount of wax is 10% or less and the synthetic wax is not contained, the stability over time and the temperature resistance deteriorate. When the content of the synthetic wax was less than 5%, the temperature resistance tended to decrease slightly, and when it was more than 8%, the usability tended to decrease slightly.

Example 21: Oil-based foundation (stick type)
Ingredient name (% by weight)
(1) Synthetic wax * 1 7.0
(2) Solid paraffin * 2 2.0
(3) Microcrystalline wax 0.5
(4) Adjusted to polyglyceryl-2 100 triisostearate (5) Phenyl-modified silicone resin * 3 5.0
(6) (Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6)
Esters * 7 7.0
(7) Hydrogenated polyisobutene * 5 30.0
(8) Triolein phosphate 0.5
(9) Tocopherol 0.2
(10) Dimethicone 2% by weight coating treated titanium oxide 15.0
(11) Dimethicone 2% by weight coating treatment Bengala 0.7
(12) Dimethicone 2% by weight coating treatment Iron oxide 2.0
(13) Dimethicone 2% by weight coating treatment Black iron oxide 0.1
(14) Meticon 2% by weight coated mica 5.0
(15) Plate-shaped barium sulfate 7.0
Production method: Ingredients (1) to (15) were heated and dissolved, defoamed, poured into a rod-shaped container, and then cooled and solidified to obtain an oil-based foundation (stick type).

As a result of evaluating Example 21 in the same manner as in the above evaluation method, an oil-based foundation (stick type) having excellent aging stability, temperature resistance and usability was obtained.

Example 22: Oil-based solid eyeshadow Ingredient name (% by weight)
(1) Synthetic wax * 1 6.0
(2) Solid paraffin * 2 2.0
(3) Microcrystalline wax 0.5
(4) Adjusted to polyglyceryl-2 100 triisostearate (5) Phenyl-modified silicone resin * 3 5.0
(6) (Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6)
Esters * 7 5.0
(7) Hydrogenated polyisobutene * 5 30.0
(8) Isotridecyl isononanoate 7.0
(9) Tocopherol 0.2
(10) Mica Titanium 30.0
(11) Bengala 5.0
Production method: Ingredients (1) to (9) were heated and dissolved, (10) to (11) were added, and the mixture was mixed and stirred. Then, after defoaming this, the container was filled and cooled to obtain an oily solid eyeshadow.

As a result of evaluating Example 22 in the same manner as in the above evaluation method, an oil-based solid eyeshadow excellent in stability over time, temperature resistance and usability was obtained.

By containing the phenyl-modified silicone resin in combination with (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters and hydrogenated polyisobutene, the present invention is excellent in hardness change and temperature resistance over time, and It is a technology to provide oil-based solid cosmetics with excellent smoothness of elongation at the time of application.

Claims (3)

The following components (A) to (C);
(A) Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid 1 to 15% by weight
(B) (Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) Esters 5 to 20% by weight
(C) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 30-50% by weight
An oily solid cosmetic characterized by containing. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrogenated polyisobutene has a kinematic viscosity of 2.5 to 4,700 mm ² / s at 100 ° C. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the oily solid cosmetic is for the lips.