JP6819123B2 - Concavo-convex woven knit - Google Patents

Description

The present invention is a woven knit that partially uses a composite spun yarn in which at least two or more different types of different short fibers are mixed, and the composition of the different short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn is intermittent in the yarn longitudinal direction. It is related to the uneven woven knitting that is being switched.

Conventionally, as a method of expressing unevenness on the surface of a woven fabric, a method of expressing a complicated pattern by mechanically operating an opening device using a special loom such as a tappet, a dobby or a jacquard loom is generally and widely known. There is. From the dyeing surface, typical print processing, embossing processing, opal processing, etc. are used according to the purpose, woven fabric type, final use, and the like. Among them, embossing is often used as a method of adding a satin finish or a Yangyanagi-like pattern to the front and back of the woven fabric. In particular, synthetic fiber woven fabric has its thermoplastic characteristics, and a method that makes use of this characteristic is used. I can say.

However, there is a limit to high-speed operation in the above-mentioned special looms, and the productivity is inevitably inferior to that of WJL and AJL looms. On the other hand, the production technology is established for embossing developed from the dyeing surface, and the quality Although it is stable in terms of quality, it is inevitable that the cost will increase as compared with the normal dyeing process. In addition, there is a problem that the texture of the embossed portion becomes hard and there are many restrictions on material development (see Patent Document 1).

On the other hand, a method has also been developed in which a composite spun yarn in which two or more different types of short fibers are mixed is used to give a feeling of heather or unevenness to a woven or knitted fabric. For example, the heather yarn is a heather yarn that is not uniformly mixed due to poor dispersibility in the mixed cotton by making the raw cotton dyed differently or the raw cotton dyed differently into a low blending ratio of 10% by mass or less. However, this method has a problem that the uneven portion and the color difference are not clear because the composition of different short fiber groups is hardly changed.

Various other studies have been conducted to solve such problems. In a blended yarn of polyester fiber and rayon, colored rayon of unequal length is 0.1 to 10% by mass of the spun yarn. A blended yarn dispersed in the length direction has been proposed (see Patent Document 2). Separately, a composite yarn in which two types of blister yarns having different shrinkage rates are spun on the same weight of a spinning frame and the two types of fiber materials are continuously present along the yarn axis has also been proposed (patented). See Reference 3). However, these proposals have a problem that the expression of unevenness becomes mediocre because the composition of different short fiber groups is hardly changed.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2003-082552 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 07-331547 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2013-253334

Therefore, an object of the present invention is not limited to the structure and processing of the woven and knitted fabric, and in the composite spun yarn constituting the woven and knitted fabric, the composition of the short fiber group constituting the composite spun yarn is intermittently switched in the yarn longitudinal direction. It is an object of the present invention to provide an uneven woven knitted fabric having excellent fine surface unevenness, which is made by using the composite spun yarn.

The present invention is intended to solve the above problems, and the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric partially using a composite spun yarn in which at least two or more different types of different short fibers are mixed. The composite spun yarn has a low crimp short fiber group having a crimp expression rate of 10% or less and a high crimp short fiber group having a crimp occurrence rate difference of 5% or more between the low crimp short fiber group and high. It is an uneven woven knitted fabric characterized in that the compositions of the crimped short fiber group and the low crimped short fiber group are switched.

According to the present invention, the composite spun yarn has abundant changes in the composition of short fibers that differ in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the unevenness due to the difference in the crimp occurrence rate of each short fiber changes in the yarn longitudinal direction of the composite spun yarn. It is possible to obtain a concavo-convex woven knitted fabric made of a composite spun yarn, which is excellent in fine surface irregularities that could not be obtained conventionally.

FIG. 1 is a schematic vertical cross-sectional view for explaining the structure of the composite spun yarn used in the present invention.

The uneven woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted knit that partially uses a composite spun yarn in which at least two or more different types of different short fibers are mixed, and the composition of different short fiber groups constituting the composite spun yarn is a yarn. It is an uneven woven knit that is intermittently switched in the longitudinal direction.

The composite spun yarn used in the present invention in which two or more different types of short fibers are mixed is not only the type of fiber material, but also the same fiber material having different fiber length, single fiber fineness, or cross-sectional shape, and dyeing difference. Those with different values are also counted as one type. That is, for example, even if polyester fibers are the same fiber material, there are two types of short fibers having different shrinkage differences, and two types of single fiber fineness of 1.0 dtex and 2.0 dtex. For example, single fibers. When the fineness is different by 0.1 dtex, there may be two types, and the black color dyed with raw cotton and the white color not dyed with raw cotton can be counted as two types.

In the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention, it is important that the composition of the short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn is intermittently switched in the yarn longitudinal direction. Intermittent switching of the composition of the short fiber group in the yarn longitudinal direction of the composite spun yarn means that the composition of the short fiber group of different types is switched according to the application and purpose, and the composition of each type of short fiber is switched. It is preferable that any of them has a portion of less than 50% by mass, and further, it has a portion in which each type of short fiber does not exist, that is, it has a portion formed of only other types of short fibers. This is a more preferable embodiment. This is because the characteristics of each type of short fiber are more exhibited.

Regarding the composition of the short fiber group, the cross section of the composite spun yarn decomposed from the woven fabric is photographed with an electron microscope or a microscope, and the composition of each type of short fiber is confirmed from the photograph.
Further, the portion where a certain type of short fibers does not exist is evaluated by the presence or absence of each short fiber from a cross-sectional photograph of the composite spun yarn or the composite spun yarn decomposed from the woven or knitted fabric.

Further, the composite spun yarn constituting the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention has a high winding rate difference of 5% or more between the low crimp short fiber group having a crimp occurrence rate of 10% or less and the low crimp short fiber group. It is important to have a group of short fibers. In the composite spun yarn in which two or more different short fibers are mixed, the difference in the occurrence rate of crimping between the low crimp short fiber group and the high crimp short fiber group is 5%, instead of the variation in yarn length due to the arrangement of two different types of yarn. With the above, it is possible to give a natural unevenness. If the difference in the occurrence rate of crimping is less than 5%, the unevenness is insufficient and the knitted fabric has few features. Further, it is preferable that the upper limit of the difference in the occurrence rate of crimping is 30% or less because an appropriate unevenness can be obtained, the floating of the yarn is appropriate, and problems such as snugging do not occur in terms of physical properties. A more preferable range of the crimp expression rate difference is 5 to 15%. The composite spun yarn of the present invention has a specific low crimp short fiber group and a high crimp short fiber group, and each short fiber group may include short fiber groups having different crimp occurrence rates. In that case, the difference in the crimp expression rate between the high crimp short fiber group having the highest crimp expression rate and the low crimp short fiber group having the lowest crimp expression rate is defined as the crimp expression rate difference.

Further, it is important that the crimp occurrence rate of the low crimp short fiber group is 10% or less in that the unevenness can be three-dimensionally imparted. When the crimp occurrence rate of the low crimp short fiber group exceeds 10%, the crimp of the woven or knitted fabric becomes large, so that large irregularities become inconspicuous and a featureless surface feeling is obtained. The crimp expression rate of the preferred low crimp short fiber group is 3 or more and 8% or less.

The composite spun yarn used in the present invention is a composite spun yarn in which two or more different types of short fibers are mixed, and as a material of the low shrinkage short fibers constituting this composite spun yarn, for example, ordinary Not only all synthetic fibers but also cellulose-based fibers such as acetate, regenerated cellulose-based fibers, and natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and animal fibers can be applied.

As the cross-sectional shape of the short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn, any cross-sectional shape such as a round shape, a triangular shape, a Y shape, a cross shape, a star shape, and a flat shape can be used.

Further, as a material of high shrinkage short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn, synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers having a shrinkage rate of preferably 10% or more are used. More preferably, it is a high shrinkage polyester short fiber, and for example, a polyester short fiber in which high shrinkage PET and low shrinkage PET are side-by-side or eccentric core sheath composite is preferably used. By forming PETs having different shrinkage characteristics into a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite yarn, each component exhibits different shrinkage in the product, resulting in high shrinkage short fibers. For example, high shrinkage characteristics can be obtained by using PET in which a third component such as isophthalic acid is copolymerized for high shrinkage PET. The degree of shrinkage characteristics may be adjusted to a desired range by adjusting the copolymerization ratio and the copolymerization species.

The single fiber fineness of the short fiber is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10 dtex, and more preferably 0.7 to 4 dtex, in the single fiber fineness used in the composite spun yarn from the viewpoint of achieving both spinnability and texture. It is in the range of 0.0 dtex. Here, when the single fiber fineness is 0.5 dtex or more, the spinnability is good. Further, since the single fiber fineness is 10 dtex or less, the texture does not become too hard and it is suitable for clothing.

The fiber length of the short fibers is preferably in the range of 25 to 200 mm, more preferably in the range of 30 to 100 mm from the viewpoint of quality. Here, if the fiber length is less than 25 mm, the yarn strength becomes poor, which is not preferable. Further, if the fiber length exceeds 200 mm, the spinnability is extremely deteriorated, which is not preferable.

The yarn count of the composite spun yarn used in the present invention is preferably in the range of 10 to 100 (cotton type), but the yarn count can be appropriately selected depending on the intended use. For example, in the case of woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, a count of 20 to 100 (cotton type) is preferable. In the case of woven and knitted clothing materials such as bags, 10 to 30 counts (cotton type) are preferable. Further, the yarn count can be changed in the yarn longitudinal direction of the composite spun yarn according to the application, but the quality of the woven or knitted fabric is improved when the yarn count is constant in the yarn longitudinal direction of the composite spun yarn.

The twist coefficient of the composite spun yarn is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 5.0, but this twist coefficient can be appropriately selected depending on the application. Further, the twist coefficient does not have to be constant and can be changed in the yarn longitudinal direction of the composite spun yarn depending on the application.

The composite spun yarn can be used as a slab yarn depending on the application. For example, if the slab thickness and length are 100% or less of the standard count, the yarn strength may be poor and spun yarn may not be manufactured, or if it is 500% or more of the standard count, the next step. The slab thickness and length are preferably in the range of 100 to 500% of the reference count, because the yarn breakage may occur due to the change in the count in the loom, the knitting machine, or the like. The slab thickness and length are more preferably in the range of 150-300%.

Further, if the slab length is 30 mm or less, the slab length is shorter than the single fiber length and slab formation is impossible, and if the slab length is 2000 mm or more, the slab is not emphasized when the fabric is used. Is preferably in the range of 30 to 2000 mm. The slab length is more preferably in the range of 50-1000 mm.

The composite spun yarn can be processed not only with a single yarn but also with a twisted yarn such as a twin yarn or a triplet yarn or a composite yarn with a long fiber.

Next, the method for producing the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

First, as a method of obtaining a composite spun yarn, for example, in a kneading process such as a kneading machine or a gil machine, two types of slivers are prepared, and the creel is driven independently to interrupt the two types of slivers in the yarn longitudinal direction. If necessary, the sliver produced by the method of switching the yarn is made into coarse yarn and set in a ring spinning machine, an air spinning machine, a binding spinning machine, etc. to obtain a composite spun yarn, or two coarse yarns in the spinning process. A spinning machine with an independent apron mechanism and a mosaic yarn system (manufactured by Toyoda Automatic Lumber Co., Ltd.) that intermittently switches the spun yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by supplying yarn from the middle roller and back roller, respectively, is used. Then, a method of obtaining a composite spun yarn can be mentioned.

Next, the structure of the composite spun yarn constituting the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention will be illustrated and described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic vertical cross-sectional view for explaining an example of the structure of the composite spun yarn used in the present invention.

In FIG. 1, the composite spun yarn 4 according to one aspect of the present invention is a short fiber group consisting of short fibers A (hereinafter, may be abbreviated as “short fiber group 1”) and short fibers B. 2 (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as "short fiber group 2"), and a composite short fiber group (composite portion) 3 composed of short fibers A and short fibers B (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as "composite portion 3") It is composed of.

For example, by arranging the low crimp short fiber group and the high crimp short fiber group as in the short fiber groups 1 and 2 above, the composition of different short fibers is switched in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the constituent components of the composite spun yarn are the yarn longitudinals. By changing in the direction intermittently, the obtained woven fabric has an unprecedented new appearance with a remarkable change in the uneven portion in the appearance.

The average pitch length of the high crimp short fiber group and the low crimp short fiber group when the composition of the short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn is intermittently switched in the yarn longitudinal direction is finely in the range of 40 mm to 300 mm, respectively. It is preferable because the surface unevenness can be expressed more prominently and the uneven woven knitted fabric having more excellent quality can be obtained. Here, the pitch length is, for example, the pitch of each of the short fiber groups 1 and 2 shown in FIG. 1, and the average pitch length is the average of the pitch length of the short fiber group 1 and the pitch length of the short fiber group 2 by the methods described later. It was done.

More preferably, the average pitch length is 40 mm to 100 mm, respectively, and more preferably 40 mm to 70 mm. If the average pitch length is less than 40 mm, the length becomes close to the short fiber length, and as a result, yarn breakage during spinning may increase. Further, when the average pitch length exceeds 300 mm, the same material continues for a long time, so that the woven or knitted material has little change in unevenness. Further, by making the average pitch length of the low shrinkage short fibers shorter than the average pitch length of the high shrinkage short fibers, finer surface irregularities can be expressed. In addition, the pitch length when the composition of the short fibers constituting the composite spun yarn is intermittently switched in the yarn longitudinal direction is changed randomly within a preferable range to give a change in surface unevenness, resulting in natural unevenness. You can also get a feeling.

The composite portion (composite short fiber group 3 described later) is necessary for entwining the short fiber groups 1 and 2 described later, but it is not preferable because the unevenness becomes unclear when the pitch becomes long. The preferred average pitch length of the composite portion 3 is 40 to 80 mm.

Further, the form of the composite spun yarn may be a ring spun yarn, and may be an air spun yarn or a bound spun yarn.

As the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention, any known woven structure or knitted structure can be applied by using a known weaving method and knitting method.

For example, in a woven fabric, the composite spun yarn used in the present invention can be used as a warp and / or a weft of a woven fabric, and can be woven in a normal weaving process. Any structure can be used as the structure, but a flat structure or a twill structure is preferably used in terms of finely changing the unevenness. Further, in knitting, it is possible to knit by a normal circular knitting or warp knitting process. Any structure can be used for the structure, but in terms of finely changing the unevenness, a tenjiku structure, a Kanoko structure, a punch structure and a twill structure are preferably used for circular knitting, and a half structure is preferably used for warp knitting.

The weaving and knitting process may be a generally used process, and the type of loom and knitting machine is not particularly limited. In addition, the structure and density of the woven and knitted fabric are selected according to the required texture, physical characteristics and functionality.

The raw machine obtained in the weaving and knitting process is selected according to the material used, but is dyed and finished under general dyeing processes and conditions, and the final finish is a woven and knitted product. Among them, in order to express a feeling of unevenness, it is preferable that the relaxing heat treatment imparts a fir effect to the woven or knitted fabric by a high temperature and high pressure liquid flow relaxing process of 120 ° C. or higher. Further, if necessary, it can be dyed with dyed raw cotton or composite spun yarn before the weaving and knitting process.

Further, the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention may be used for a part of the fiber structure or for the entire fiber structure, and can be determined according to its use and purpose. For example, it can be used for clothing applications such as inners, jackets, shirts, coats, dresses, uniforms, cut-and-sew, underwear, socks, linings, gloves, mufflers, and household applications such as mats, towels and bags. In particular, it can be suitably used for shirts and jackets.

Further, the composite spun yarn used in the present invention can be combined with a filament yarn as needed to obtain a long and short composite spun yarn. If the ratio of filament yarn is 5% by mass or less, the characteristics of filament yarn cannot be exhibited, and conversely, if the ratio is 50% by mass or more, the characteristics on the staple side cannot be exhibited. Therefore, the composite ratio of filament yarn is A preferred embodiment is in the range of 5 to 50% by mass.

The filament yarn used in the present invention is specifically composed of polyester fiber, bisco rayon fiber, cupra rayon fiber, polyamide fiber, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polytrimethylene terephtal fiber, polypropylene fiber and nylon fiber. Examples include filament yarn. Further, the form of the filament yarn may be any of false twisted yarn, unprocessed raw yarn, yarn dyed yarn and the like, and these composite yarns can also be used.

Next, the uneven woven knitted fabric of the present invention will be described with reference to Examples. The measurement method and evaluation method for physical properties, etc. in the present invention are as follows.

(1) Locations where each type of short fiber does not exist:
The woven and knitted fabric is sampled at a weft of 15 cm, and 30 composite spun yarns are separated in order from an arbitrary place. The composite spun yarn was cut 20 mm from the end, and the cross section of the composite spun yarn was photographed at a magnification of 20 times with a microscope to confirm the presence of each type of short fiber.

Cut again 30 mm from the cut end, confirm the existence of each type of short fiber by the same method, repeat this, 5 times with composite spun yarn, and show the existence of each type of short fiber in the cross-sectional photograph. confirmed. In the same manner, 30 composite spun yarns were evaluated and evaluated 150 times in total, and among the short fibers of each type, the portion where any of the short fibers was absent was confirmed. When it is confirmed that any of the short fibers is not present even once in 150 times, the composite spun yarn having a portion in which the short fibers of each type of the present invention are not present is used.

(2) Dry heat shrinkage test:
It was measured by dry heat at a temperature of 180 ° C. according to JIS L 1015 (chemical fiber staple test method) (revised in 2015).

(3) Crispy expression rate, difference in crimp expression rate:
Each short fiber group is randomly selected from the woven or knitted fabric, a load of fineness D (dtex) × 0.01 g is applied, and marks are marked at intervals of 5 cm. Let this interval be L ₀ (cm). After that, a load of fineness D (dtex) × 0.1 g is applied, and the length of the interval between the previously marked threads is measured. This measurement is repeated for 30 threads, and the average value is L (cm). The crimp expression rate is calculated by the following formula.
-Crispy expression rate (%) = [(LL ₀ ) / L ₀ ] × 100
-Crisp expression rate difference (%) = (crimp expression rate of high crimp short fiber group)-(crimp expression rate of low crimp short fiber group)
In the present invention, when the length of each short fiber group is less than 5 cm, the marks are marked at the longest measurable intervals, and the same procedure is performed except that the length is measured.

(4) Evaluation of uneven appearance of woven and knitted fabric (clear unevenness):
The following grades were judged on the unevenness of the woven and knitted fabrics prepared in the examples, and the judgment with the largest evaluation result was obtained in the evaluation by 10 randomly selected persons. When there are multiple judgment results with the largest number, the evaluation is in the middle. ◎ and ○ are at a level where the unevenness can be judged to be acceptable.
・ ◎: The concave part and the convex part are very clearly separated.
・ ○: The concave part and the convex part are clearly separated.
-Δ: The concave portion and the convex portion are unclear.
-X: There are no concave or convex parts, and the surface feels flat.

(5) Evaluation of uneven appearance of woven and knitted fabric (fine unevenness):
Regarding the unevenness of the woven and knitted fabrics prepared in the examples, the following grades were judged, and the results were close to the average of the evaluations of 10 randomly selected persons. ◎ and ○ are at a level where the unevenness can be judged to be acceptable.
・ ◎: The concave part and the convex part are very finely divided.
・ ○: The concave part and the convex part are finely divided.
・ Δ: The pitch between the concave portion and the convex portion is slightly large.
-X: The pitch between the concave and convex parts is large, giving a wrinkle-like surface feeling.

(6) Average pitch length:
A load of fineness D (dtex) × 0.1 g is applied to the composite spun yarn, and the length of each short fiber group is measured. This measurement is repeated for 30 fibers, and the average value is taken as the average pitch length of each short fiber group.
As the pitch length, the section of the portion shown as the short fiber groups 1 and 2 in FIG. 1 was measured. Further, as the average pitch length of the composite portion, the section of the portion shown as the composite portion 3 in FIG. 1 was measured.

(Example 1)
A crude yarn (A) composed of PET short fibers A having a single fiber fineness of 1.45 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 6.0% is prepared, and a single fiber fineness is 2.2 dtex. A crude yarn (B) made of PET bimetal short fibers B in which high shrinkage PET and low shrinkage PET having a fiber length of 38 mm and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 15.0% were bonded side by side was prepared. A spinning machine having a mosaic yarn system manufactured by Toyoda Automatic Weaving Machine Co., Ltd. for the crude yarn (A) and the crude yarn (B), with the crude yarn (A) from the middle roller and the crude yarn (B) from the back roller. The conditions shown in Table 1 (average pitch length of low crimped short fiber group derived from crude yarn (A): 80 mm, average pitch length of high crimped short fiber group derived from crude yarn (B): 80 mm, composite portion. 40S composite spun yarn was obtained with a cotton-type count (average pitch length: 50 mm). The occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good. The obtained composite spun yarn was a composite spun yarn in which the composition of a short fiber group composed of short fibers A and a short fiber group composed of short fibers B was intermittently switched in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

Next, the obtained composite spun yarn is used for both the weft and the warp, and the weaving structure is made into a plain weave using a normal rapier loom, and the weaving density is 130 warp / 2.54 cm and 70 weft. A woven fabric having a size of /2.54 cm was obtained. Next, the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously refined at a temperature of 98 ° C., and then unevenness is developed on the surface by a liquid flow relaxing treatment at a temperature of 130 ° C., and then intermediate setting is performed at a temperature of 180 ° C. to disperse the dye. The finish set was applied at a temperature of 130 ° C. and 160 ° C. The crimp occurrence rate of the obtained woven fabric was 6% for the low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A), 15% for the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B), and the difference in the crimp occurrence rate was 9%. The surface of the woven fabric was particularly clear and excellent in fine surface unevenness, and the woven fabric had a variety of shades and a fine texture. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
A crude yarn (A) composed of cationic PET short fibers A having a single fiber fineness of 1.45 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 6.5% was prepared, and a low yarn (A) derived from the crude yarn (A) was prepared. A composite spun yarn was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the average pitch length of the crimped short fiber group was 50 mm and the average pitch length of the high crimped short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B) was 55 mm. The occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good. Next, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was dyed with a cationic dye. The crimp occurrence rate of the obtained woven fabric was 5% for the low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A), 15% for the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B), and the difference in the crimp occurrence rate was 10%. The surface of the woven fabric was particularly clear and excellent in very fine surface irregularities, and further excellent in the design of the flow heather. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3)
A crude yarn (A) made of short cotton fibers having a fiber length of 38 mm and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 4.5% was prepared. In addition, PET bimetal short fibers B and single fibers in which high shrinkage PET and low shrinkage PET having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 15.0% are bonded side by side. A crude yarn (B) prepared by blending low-shrink polyester raw cotton having a fineness of 1.45 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 6.0% at a mass ratio of 50:50 in a blended cotton step. A composite spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. The occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good. Next, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The crimp expression rate of the obtained woven fabric was 4% for the low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A), 10% for the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B), and the difference in the crimp occurrence rate was 6%. The surface of the woven fabric was clear and excellent in fine surface unevenness, and had a natural surface feeling. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 4)
A composite spun yarn obtained by the same method as in Example 1 was obtained, except that a crude yarn (A) made of cotton short fibers having a fiber length of 38 mm and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 4.5% was prepared. Using the composite spun yarn, a knitted fabric was obtained with a tenjiku structure using a normal 28G circular knitting machine, and processed in the same manner as in Example 1. The crimp expression rate of the obtained knitted fabric was 4% for the low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A), 18% for the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B), and the difference in the crimp occurrence rate was 14%. The surface of the knitted fabric was very clear and had an excellent surface feeling with fine surface irregularities. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
PET short fibers A and PET bimetal short fibers B are prepared by the same method as in Example 1, and in the mixed cotton step, they are mixed and put in at a mass ratio of 50:50 in the mixed cotton step. A crude yarn (C) was produced through a spinning process. The prepared crude yarn (C) was supplied from the back roller of a spinning frame manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, and 45 composite spun yarns were obtained with a cotton-type count under the conditions shown in Table 1. The occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good.

The obtained composite spun yarn was used in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. The crimp expression rate of the obtained woven fabric was constant at 6%, and the difference in the crimp expression rate was 0%. The surface of the woven fabric had no concave or convex parts and had a flat surface feeling. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
A crude yarn (B) made of nylon 6 short fibers B having a single fiber fineness of 1.45 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 8% was prepared, and a low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A). A composite spun yarn was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the average pitch length of the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B) was 400 mm. The occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good. Next, as a result of obtaining a woven fabric by the same method as in Example 1, the crimp occurrence rate was 6% for the low crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (A) and the high crimp short fiber group derived from the crude yarn (B). The difference in the occurrence rate of crimping was 8%, and the concave and convex portions on the surface of the woven fabric were unclear, and the feeling of unevenness was insufficient. Furthermore, the surface feeling had a slightly large uneven pitch. The results are shown in Table 1.

1: Short fiber group composed of short fibers A 2: Short fiber group composed of short fibers B 3: Composite short fiber group composed of a mixture of short fibers A and short fibers (composite portion)
4: Composite spun yarn

Claims (2)

It is a woven or knitted fabric partially using a composite spun yarn in which at least two or more different types of different short fibers are mixed, and the composite spun yarn includes a group of low crimp short fibers having a crimp occurrence rate of 10% or less and the low curl. It has a high crimp short fiber group with a crimp occurrence rate difference of 5% or more from the crimp fiber group, and the composition of the high crimp short fiber group and the low crimp short fiber group is switched, and each type of short fiber An uneven woven knitted fabric having a non-existent portion . The uneven woven knit according to claim 1, wherein the average pitch lengths of the high crimp short fiber group and the low crimp short fiber group are 40 mm to 300 mm, respectively.