JP5161011B2 - Internal condition evaluation method and internal condition evaluation apparatus for hair - Google Patents
Internal condition evaluation method and internal condition evaluation apparatus for hair Download PDFInfo
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Description
本発明は、偏光を用いて毛髪の内部状態を評価する方法及び装置に関する。 The present invention relates to a method and apparatus for evaluating the internal state of hair using polarized light.
毛髪は、洗髪、ブロー、ブラッシング等の日常のヘアケア、パーマネント液、ブリーチ剤、毛染め剤等による化学処理、紫外線、自然酸化等の環境要因によって種々の損傷を受け、健康状態が損なわれる場合がある。従来、毛髪の健康状態を判断するため、あるいは毛髪に適用した剤の影響を調べるために、毛髪のミクロ的な観察が行われており、その手法としては、毛髪を横断面方向あるいは縦断面方向に切断し、電子顕微鏡で観察することが行われている。しかし、従来のミクロ的な観察手法は、包埋、切断等の手間がかかるという問題がある。 Hair may be damaged in various ways by environmental factors such as daily hair care such as shampooing, blowing, brushing, chemical treatment with permanent liquid, bleaching agent, hair dye, etc., ultraviolet rays, natural oxidation, etc. is there. Conventionally, microscopic observation of hair has been performed in order to determine the health condition of hair or to investigate the effects of agents applied to hair. And being observed with an electron microscope. However, the conventional microscopic observation method has a problem that it takes time and effort for embedding and cutting.
このような問題を解決すべく、非破壊検査で、毛髪の内部状態を簡便に観察できる方法が提案されている。例えば特許文献１には、毛髪の赤外線による拡大画像を撮り、毛髪内部の特定部位（メデュラ又はコルテックス）を観察する方法が記載されている。毛髪が損傷を受け、ぱさついたり、ハリやコシや艶が無くなったり、枝毛や切れ毛が生じやすくなると、該毛髪の内部にあるコルテックスやメデュラでは、細胞のタンパク質あるいは細胞間の脂質の溶出により空孔あるいは空洞が生じる。特許文献１に記載の方法は、このような毛髪内部の構造変化を赤外線を用いて観察するものである。 In order to solve such problems, a method has been proposed in which the internal state of hair can be easily observed by nondestructive inspection. For example, Patent Document 1 describes a method of taking an enlarged image of hair with infrared rays and observing a specific portion (medura or cortex) inside the hair. Cortex and medura inside the hair is damaged when the hair is damaged and becomes crusty, crushed, stiff and glossy, or easily split or broken. Elution creates voids or cavities. The method described in Patent Document 1 observes such a structural change in the hair using infrared rays.
また特許文献２には、偏光を用いた毛髪の非破壊検査として、光源の光路上に平行ニコル関係にある一対の偏光子を配置し、該一対の偏光子間における該光路上に毛髪を挿入した状態で該光源から光を照射し、該毛髪を透過した透過光をＣＣＤカメラを用いて検出し、該透過光の強度を測定する方法が記載されている。特許文献２に記載の方法によれば、毛髪内部で散乱する光と、毛髪内部を直線的に透過する透過光とを効率よく分離することができ、これにより該透過光の強度に依存した画像が得られるようになるため、カラーリング剤の脱色・染色状況やヘアートリートメントによる補修プロセスに関する情報が得られるとされている。 In Patent Document 2, as a non-destructive inspection of hair using polarized light, a pair of polarizers having a parallel Nicol relationship are arranged on the optical path of the light source, and the hair is inserted on the optical path between the pair of polarizers. In this state, there is described a method of irradiating light from the light source, detecting transmitted light transmitted through the hair using a CCD camera, and measuring the intensity of the transmitted light. According to the method described in Patent Document 2, it is possible to efficiently separate light scattered inside the hair and transmitted light that linearly transmits inside the hair, and thereby an image depending on the intensity of the transmitted light. Therefore, it is said that information on the decolorization / dyeing status of the coloring agent and the repair process by hair treatment can be obtained.
特許文献１に記載の方法においては、得られた前記拡大画像から毛髪の内部状態を分析するためにはある程度の知識や経験を要し、専門家以外の人が該拡大画像を見ても毛髪の内部状態を把握し難い。即ち、特許文献１に記載の方法は使用できる環境が制限されやすく、より簡便に毛髪の内部状態を評価し得る方法が望まれていた。また特許文献２に記載の方法は、基本的にカラーリング剤によって毛髪が染色されていく様子などを見ることに特化したものであり、毛髪の健康状態を判断する手段として使用することは意図していない。また特許文献２に記載の方法は、一対の偏光子を平行ニコル関係に配置しているため、背景が白一色となり、毛髪構造の違いがわかりにくく、毛髪の内部状態の変化を十分に捉えきれないおそれがある。 In the method described in Patent Document 1, it takes some knowledge and experience to analyze the internal state of hair from the obtained enlarged image, and even if a person other than a specialist views the enlarged image, the hair It is difficult to grasp the internal state of. That is, in the method described in Patent Document 1, the environment in which it can be used is easily limited, and a method that can more easily evaluate the internal state of the hair has been desired. Further, the method described in Patent Document 2 is basically specialized in seeing how hair is dyed with a coloring agent, and is intended to be used as a means for judging the health of hair. Not done. In the method described in Patent Document 2, since a pair of polarizers are arranged in a parallel Nicol relationship, the background is white, the difference in hair structure is difficult to understand, and changes in the internal state of the hair can be fully captured. There is a risk of not.
従って本発明の目的は、毛髪の内部状態を簡便に評価することができ、且つ毛髪処理等による該内部状態の変化を的確に把握することができる毛髪の内部状態評価方法及び内部状態評価装置を提供することにある。 Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide an internal state evaluation method and an internal state evaluation apparatus for hair that can easily evaluate the internal state of hair and can accurately grasp changes in the internal state due to hair treatment or the like. It is to provide.
本発明者らは、非破壊検査で毛髪の内部状態を評価する方法について種々検討した結果、直交ニコル関係にある一対の偏光子を用いて毛髪を透過した透過光（複屈折による干渉光）の色相を評価した場合、毛髪のパーマネント液等による処理回数と該色相との間に相関があることを知見した。また、毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させてから該毛髪についての前記透過光の色相を評価した場合、張力を加えない場合に比して該色相の変化が明確になることを知見した。 As a result of various studies on methods for evaluating the internal state of hair by nondestructive inspection, the present inventors have found that transmitted light (interfering light due to birefringence) transmitted through the hair using a pair of polarizers having a crossed Nicols relationship. When the hue was evaluated, it was found that there was a correlation between the number of treatments with a permanent liquid of hair and the hue. Moreover, when tension | tensile_strength was added to hair and the hue of the said transmitted light about this hair was evaluated, it discovered that the change of this hue became clear compared with the case where tension is not added.
本発明は、前記知見に基づきなされたものであり、毛髪に光を第１の偏光子で偏光にして照射し、該毛髪を透過した光を光路に配された第２の偏光子を透過させ、該第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価方法であって、前記第１の偏光子と前記第２の偏光子とは直交ニコル関係に配置されており、前記毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させ、伸長した該毛髪を透過した前記透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価方法を提供することにより、前記目的を達成したものである。 The present invention has been made on the basis of the above knowledge, and irradiates light with polarized light with a first polarizer to the hair, and transmits the light transmitted through the hair through the second polarizer arranged in the optical path. A method for evaluating the internal state of hair for evaluating the hue of transmitted light that has passed through the second polarizer, wherein the first polarizer and the second polarizer are arranged in an orthogonal Nicole relationship. The object is achieved by providing a method for evaluating the internal state of hair, wherein the hair is elongated by applying tension and the hue of the transmitted light transmitted through the elongated hair is evaluated.
また本発明は、毛髪に光を第１の偏光子で偏光にして照射し、該毛髪を透過した光を光路に配された第２の偏光子を透過させ、該第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価装置であって、前記第１の偏光子と前記第２の偏光子とは直交ニコル関係に配置されており、前記毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させた状態で該毛髪を保持する保持手段を備え、該保持手段によって伸長状態で固定された毛髪を透過した前記透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価装置を提供することにより、前記目的を達成したものである。 The present invention also irradiates the hair with light polarized by the first polarizer, transmits the light transmitted through the hair through the second polarizer disposed in the optical path, and transmits the second polarizer. An apparatus for evaluating the internal state of hair for evaluating the hue of transmitted light, wherein the first polarizer and the second polarizer are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship, and are stretched by applying tension to the hair. By providing a holding means for holding the hair in a state of being held, and for evaluating the hue of the transmitted light that has passed through the hair fixed in the stretched state by the holding means, the object for evaluating the internal state of the hair is provided. Is achieved.
本発明の毛髪の内部状態評価方法及び内部状態評価装置によれば、毛髪の内部状態を簡便に評価することができ、且つ毛髪処理等による該内部状態の変化を的確に把握することができる。 According to the internal state evaluation method and internal state evaluation apparatus of the present invention, the internal state of hair can be easily evaluated, and changes in the internal state due to hair treatment or the like can be accurately grasped.
以下本発明を、その好ましい実施形態（実施態様）に基づいて、図面を参照しながら説明する。図１には、本実施形態の毛髪の内部状態評価方法（以下、評価方法ともいう）で用いる毛髪の内部状態評価装置（以下、評価装置ともいう）の概略構成が示されている。本実施形態の評価装置は、毛髪２０に光を第１の偏光子１１で偏光にして照射し、該毛髪２０を透過した光を光路に配された第２の偏光子１２を透過させ、該第２の偏光子１２を透過した透過光の色相を評価する装置であり、図１に示すように光源１０、第１の偏光子１１、第２の偏光子１２、及び前記透過光の色相を評価する評価手段を備えている。 The present invention will be described below based on preferred embodiments (embodiments) with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 shows a schematic configuration of a hair internal state evaluation device (hereinafter also referred to as an evaluation device) used in the hair internal state evaluation method (hereinafter also referred to as an evaluation method) of the present embodiment. The evaluation device of the present embodiment irradiates the hair 20 with light polarized by the first polarizer 11, transmits the light transmitted through the hair 20 through the second polarizer 12 arranged in the optical path, and This is an apparatus for evaluating the hue of transmitted light that has passed through the second polarizer 12, and as shown in FIG. 1, the light source 10, the first polarizer 11, the second polarizer 12, and the hue of the transmitted light are determined. An evaluation means for evaluation is provided.
前記評価手段は、対物レンズ等の受光素子１３を含んで構成されている。受光素子１３には図示しない光検出手段、Ａ／Ｄ変換器、ＣＰＵ及び画像表示手段（ＣＲＴモニタ、液晶モニタ等）が接続されている。光検出手段は受光した光をその光量に対応した輝度情報を示す電気信号に変換し、この電気信号化された輝度情報はＡ／Ｄ変換器によってデジタルデータに変換される。ＣＰＵはこのデジタルデータに基づいて画像データを作成し、作成された該画像データが画像表示手段によって表示される。こうした一連の処理は、市販の画像処理ソフトを用いて行うことができる。 The evaluation means includes a light receiving element 13 such as an objective lens. The light receiving element 13 is connected to a light detection means, an A / D converter, a CPU and an image display means (CRT monitor, liquid crystal monitor, etc.) not shown. The light detection means converts the received light into an electric signal indicating luminance information corresponding to the light quantity, and the luminance information converted into the electric signal is converted into digital data by an A / D converter. The CPU creates image data based on the digital data, and the created image data is displayed by the image display means. Such a series of processes can be performed using commercially available image processing software.
本実施形態の評価装置は、図１に示すように、毛髪２０に張力を加えて伸長させた状態で該毛髪２０を保持する保持手段として、一対の保持具１４ａ，１４ｂを備えており、該保持手段によって伸長状態で固定された毛髪２０を透過した前記透過光の色相を、前記評価手段によって評価する。一対の保持具１４ａ，１４ｂは、それぞれ、相対向する２枚の板状部材からなる把持部で毛髪２０を挟持可能になされており、且つ該保持部と反対側の端部が図示しないエアシリンダに接続されている。一対の保持具１４ａ，１４ｂで毛髪２０の長さ方向の両端を把持した状態で、該エアシリンダを動作させて両保持具１４ａ，１４ｂを毛髪２０の長さ方向に沿って互いに離れる方向に移動させることにより、毛髪２０に張力を加えてこれを伸長させることができる。尚、保持具１４ａ，１４ｂの移動手段はエアシリンダに限定されず、他に油圧シリンダや、電動モータを用いたボールネジプレス等の機器を用いても良い。 As shown in FIG. 1, the evaluation device of the present embodiment includes a pair of holding tools 14 a and 14 b as holding means for holding the hair 20 in a state where the hair 20 is stretched by applying tension. The evaluation means evaluates the hue of the transmitted light that has passed through the hair 20 fixed in the stretched state by the holding means. Each of the pair of holders 14a and 14b is configured such that the hair 20 can be clamped by gripping portions made of two plate-like members facing each other, and the end opposite to the holding portion is an air cylinder (not shown) It is connected to the. While holding both ends of the hair 20 in the length direction with the pair of holding tools 14a and 14b, the air cylinder is operated to move both the holding tools 14a and 14b away from each other along the length of the hair 20. By doing so, tension can be applied to the hair 20 to elongate it. In addition, the moving means of the holders 14a and 14b is not limited to the air cylinder, and other devices such as a hydraulic cylinder and a ball screw press using an electric motor may be used.
本実施形態の被評価物である毛髪２０は、図１に示すように、第１の偏光子１１と第２の偏光子１２との間に挿入される。光源１０からは無偏光の光が照射される。偏光子１１，１２としては、偏光板、偏光プリズム等を用いることができる。尚、図１では、偏光子１１，１２と毛髪２０との間に隙間があるが、偏光子１１，１２で直接毛髪２０を挟んで固定しても良い。 As shown in FIG. 1, the hair 20 that is the evaluation object of the present embodiment is inserted between the first polarizer 11 and the second polarizer 12. Non-polarized light is emitted from the light source 10. As the polarizers 11 and 12, a polarizing plate, a polarizing prism, or the like can be used. In FIG. 1, there is a gap between the polarizers 11 and 12 and the hair 20, but the hairs 20 may be directly sandwiched and fixed by the polarizers 11 and 12.
評価装置における毛髪２０の設置方法は特に制限されないが、評価データの安定性を高める観点から、毛髪２０をその長さ方向と直交する径方向の上下からスライドガラス等で挟み込み（図示せず）、且つその状態で該径方向の毛髪断面の長軸Ｌが水平になるように、該毛髪２０を評価装置に設置することが好ましい。また、評価装置に毛髪２０を設置する場合、毛髪２０と２枚の偏光子１１，１２と直交する方向（図１の上下方向）とのなす角度（毛髪設置角度）は４５°とした方が、該毛髪設置角度を０°又は９０°とした場合よりも測定感度が高くなるため好ましい。 The method of installing the hair 20 in the evaluation device is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of improving the stability of the evaluation data, the hair 20 is sandwiched between slide glasses or the like from the top and bottom in the radial direction perpendicular to the length direction (not shown), And it is preferable to install this hair 20 in an evaluation apparatus so that the long axis L of the hair cross section of this radial direction may become horizontal in that state. Further, when the hair 20 is installed in the evaluation apparatus, the angle (hair installation angle) formed by the hair 20 and the direction orthogonal to the two polarizers 11 and 12 (the vertical direction in FIG. 1) should be 45 °. Since the measurement sensitivity is higher than when the hair installation angle is 0 ° or 90 °, it is preferable.
第１の偏光子１１と第２の偏光子１２とは直交ニコル関係に配置されている。即ち、２枚の偏光子１１，１２は、それぞれの偏光軸が直交するように対向配置されている。より具体的には、本実施形態の評価装置においては、光源１０からの照射光の光路上に、該照射光を直線偏光化する第１の偏光子１１と、該第１の偏光子１１の偏光方向と直交ニコルの関係を有する第２の偏光子１２とが配されている。従って、これら２枚の偏光子１１，１２間に被評価物が何も置かれていないブランクの状態で、光源１０から実質的に無偏光の照射光（例えば白色光）が照射された場合、第１の偏光子１１を透過した直線偏光の透過率は理論的には該照射光の５０％以下となり、更に該直線偏光は第２の偏光子１２を透過できないため、受光素子１３まで到達する光は殆どなくなり、前記画像表示手段によって表示される画像は略黒一色の消光状態となる。 The first polarizer 11 and the second polarizer 12 are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship. That is, the two polarizers 11 and 12 are arranged to face each other so that their polarization axes are orthogonal to each other. More specifically, in the evaluation apparatus of the present embodiment, the first polarizer 11 that linearly polarizes the irradiation light on the optical path of the irradiation light from the light source 10 and the first polarizer 11. A second polarizer 12 having a relationship between the polarization direction and the crossed Nicols is disposed. Therefore, in the state of a blank in which no object to be evaluated is placed between the two polarizers 11 and 12, when substantially non-polarized irradiation light (for example, white light) is irradiated from the light source 10, The transmittance of linearly polarized light that has passed through the first polarizer 11 is theoretically 50% or less of the irradiation light, and further, the linearly polarized light cannot pass through the second polarizer 12, and therefore reaches the light receiving element 13. There is almost no light, and the image displayed by the image display means is in a substantially black extinction state.
図１に示すように２枚の偏光子１１，１２間に被評価物である毛髪２０を挿入し、光源１０より光を照射して第１の偏光子１１、毛髪２０及び第２の偏光子１２を順次透過させ、第２の偏光子１２を透過した透過光の色相（色合い）を、受光素子１３を介して観察する。すると、毛髪２０が無いブランクの状態では消光状態で略黒一色であったものが、毛髪２０の存在箇所に様々な色相の有色部分が生じる。これは、例えば毛髪の内部に存在するミクロフィブリル中のタンパク質が複屈折を示すことによるものと考えられる。即ち、第１の偏光子１１を透過した直線偏光が毛髪２０の内部に入ると、該内部に存在するミクロフィブリル中の複屈折物質によって複屈折が発生し、その干渉色（光）が第２の偏光子を通過し、前記評価手段によって様々な色相の干渉色が観察できる。本実施形態の評価方法において観察対象としている、「第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相」とは、この複屈折によって生じた干渉色（光）の色相である。該干渉色の色相は、ミクロフィブリル中の複屈折物質の結晶構造や配向によって異なるものと考えられる。 As shown in FIG. 1, hair 20 as an object to be evaluated is inserted between two polarizers 11, 12, and light is irradiated from a light source 10, so that the first polarizer 11, the hair 20, and the second polarizer are irradiated. 12 is sequentially transmitted, and the hue (hue) of the transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer 12 is observed through the light receiving element 13. Then, in the blank state without the hair 20, what was substantially black in the extinction state, colored portions having various hues are generated at the location where the hair 20 is present. This is considered to be due to, for example, that the protein in the microfibril existing in the hair exhibits birefringence. That is, when the linearly polarized light transmitted through the first polarizer 11 enters the inside of the hair 20, birefringence is generated by the birefringent substance in the microfibril existing in the hair 20, and the interference color (light) is the second. Interference colors of various hues can be observed by the evaluation means. The “hue of transmitted light that has passed through the second polarizer”, which is the object of observation in the evaluation method of the present embodiment, is the hue of the interference color (light) generated by this birefringence. The hue of the interference color is considered to vary depending on the crystal structure and orientation of the birefringent material in the microfibril.
一方、例えば毛髪にパーマや染色や脱色等の化学処理（毛髪処理）を施すと、パーマネント液等の薬液によって毛髪が酸化又は還元処理されることにより、毛髪内部に存在するミクロフィブリル中の複屈折物質に結晶構造や配向の変化が生じる。従って、上述した「第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相」（前記干渉色の色相）は、毛髪の酸化又は還元処理（毛髪処理）の前後で異なる結果となる。 On the other hand, for example, when the hair is subjected to chemical treatment (hair treatment) such as perm, dyeing or decoloration, the hair is oxidized or reduced by a chemical solution such as a permanent solution, thereby causing birefringence in microfibrils existing in the hair. Changes in crystal structure and orientation occur in the material. Therefore, the above-described “hue of transmitted light that has passed through the second polarizer” (hue of the interference color) has different results before and after hair oxidation or reduction treatment (hair treatment).
また、前記干渉色の色相変化の原因である、ミクロフィブリル中の複屈折物質の結晶構造や配向の変化は、本来毛髪にとって好ましくないものであり、斯かるタンパク質の結晶構造や配向の変化は、酸化又は還元処理（毛髪処理）によって毛髪が受けた損傷として捉えることができる。従って、例えば、パーマ等の毛髪処理前の毛髪についての前記干渉色の色相と、該毛髪処理後の該毛髪についての該色相とを比較することにより、該毛髪処理による該毛髪の損傷度を評価することが可能となる。また例えば、毛髪の所定部位（例えば根元部、中央部、先端部）それぞれについて前記干渉色の色相変化を観察することで、毛髪の損傷度の分布が得られる。 In addition, the change in crystal structure and orientation of the birefringent substance in microfibrils, which is the cause of the hue change of the interference color, is inherently undesirable for hair, and the change in the crystal structure and orientation of such protein is It can be considered as damage to the hair caused by oxidation or reduction treatment (hair treatment). Therefore, for example, by comparing the hue of the interference color with respect to the hair before the hair treatment such as perm and the hue with respect to the hair after the hair treatment, the degree of damage to the hair by the hair treatment is evaluated. It becomes possible to do. Further, for example, by observing the hue change of the interference color for each predetermined part (for example, the root part, the central part, and the tip part) of the hair, the distribution of the damage degree of the hair can be obtained.
前記干渉色の色相変化（第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相変化）は、色相環上の変化として捉えることができる。例えば干渉色の色相を色相環上で数値化することにより、毛髪の酸化又は還元処理（毛髪処理）前後での干渉色の色相変化を色相環上における数値変化で表すことができる。斯かる色相変化を数値化することで色相の変化率を求めることができるようになるため、毛髪の損傷度をより客観的に示すことが可能となる。色相環としては、例えばマンセル表色系で規定される色相環（ＪＩＳ Ｚ８７２１）を用いることができる。前記干渉色の色相（色相環上の数値、マンセル値）は、例えば、市販の色彩計を用いて常法に従って測定することができる。 The interference color hue change (hue change of transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer) can be regarded as a change on the hue circle. For example, by converting the hue of the interference color into a numerical value on the hue ring, the hue change of the interference color before and after the hair oxidation or reduction treatment (hair treatment) can be expressed by a numerical change on the hue ring. Since the hue change rate can be obtained by quantifying such hue change, it is possible to more objectively indicate the degree of hair damage. As the hue ring, for example, a hue ring (JIS Z8721) defined by the Munsell color system can be used. The hue of the interference color (numerical value on the hue circle, Munsell value) can be measured according to a conventional method using, for example, a commercially available colorimeter.
前記干渉色の色相変化は、２枚の偏光子１１，１２の配置形態に影響される。本発明者らは、２枚の偏光子の配置形態について種々検討した結果、上述したように直交ニコルを採用すると、他の配置形態を採用した場合に比して前記干渉色の色相変化がより鮮明になり、毛髪の内部状態の変化を捉えやすくなることを知見した。図２には、斯かる知見を示す図が示されている。図２は、２枚の偏光子の配置形態が異なる以外は同一の観察条件（後述する実施例での観察条件と同じ）で観察された、２種類の毛髪サンプル（未処理毛、化学処理毛）についての前記干渉色の色相（第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相）の撮像結果を示す図であり、図２（ａ）は、本発明の評価方法に従って直交ニコルを採用して撮像した図、図２（ｂ）は、本発明の範囲外の評価方法である平行ニコルを採用して撮像した図である。尚、図２において、未処理毛は、パーマ等の化学処理が全く施されておらず目視観察で損傷が特に認められない毛髪であり、化学処理（ダメージ）毛は、１年間に亘ってパーマ・ブリーチ等の毛髪処理を３回実施した毛髪である。図２では未処理毛は１本、化学処理毛は２本示されている。 The hue change of the interference color is affected by the arrangement form of the two polarizers 11 and 12. As a result of various investigations on the arrangement of the two polarizers, the present inventors have found that when the crossed Nicols are employed as described above, the hue change of the interference color is greater than when other arrangements are employed. It became clear that it became easier to capture changes in the internal state of the hair. FIG. 2 shows a diagram showing such findings. FIG. 2 shows two types of hair samples (untreated hair, chemically treated hair) that were observed under the same observation conditions (the same as the observation conditions in the examples described later) except that the arrangement of the two polarizers is different. ) Is a diagram showing an imaging result of the hue of the interference color (hue of transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer), and FIG. 2 (a) adopts orthogonal Nicols according to the evaluation method of the present invention. The captured image and FIG. 2B are images obtained by employing parallel Nicols, which is an evaluation method outside the scope of the present invention. In FIG. 2, untreated hair is hair that has not been subjected to chemical treatment such as perm at all and is not particularly damaged by visual observation. Chemically treated (damaged) hair is permed for one year. -Hair that has been subjected to hair treatment such as bleaching three times. In FIG. 2, one untreated hair and two chemically treated hairs are shown.
図２（ｂ）に示すように、２枚の偏光子を平行ニコル関係に配置した場合、本来内部状態に違いがあるはずの未処理毛と化学処理毛とで、第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相（前記干渉色の色相）は殆ど同じようなものとなった。即ち、２枚の偏光子の配置形態として平行ニコルを採用した場合、該平行ニコルに起因して観察画像の背景部分（毛髪以外の部分）が白一色となるため、未処理毛と化学処理毛との前記干渉色についての色相環上での数値の差が小さいと、毛髪の内部状態の変化を十分に捉えきれないおそれがある。これに対して、図２（ａ）に示す本実施形態のように、２枚の偏光子を直交ニコル関係に配置した場合、未処理毛と化学処理毛との前記干渉色の色相の違いが鮮明になり、毛髪の内部状態の変化に応じた色相変化を観察できるため、平行ニコルを採用した場合に比して毛髪の内部状態の変化を見逃すおそれが少ない。また、２枚の偏光子を直交ニコル関係に配置することによって、図２（ａ）に示すように背景部分は消光されて略黒一色となるため、毛髪内部の状態を示す様々な色相をコントラスト良く観察することができる。 As shown in FIG. 2 (b), when two polarizers are arranged in a parallel Nicol relationship, the second polarizer is transmitted through untreated hair and chemically treated hair that should have a different internal state. The transmitted light hue (the hue of the interference color) was almost the same. That is, when parallel Nicol is adopted as the arrangement form of the two polarizers, the background portion (portion other than the hair) of the observation image is white due to the parallel Nicol, so that untreated hair and chemically treated hair If the difference in the numerical value on the hue circle for the interference color is small, there is a possibility that the change in the internal state of the hair cannot be fully captured. On the other hand, when two polarizers are arranged in a crossed Nicol relationship as in this embodiment shown in FIG. 2A, the difference in hue of the interference color between untreated hair and chemically treated hair is Since it becomes clear and the change in hue according to the change in the internal state of the hair can be observed, there is less risk of overlooking the change in the internal state of the hair compared to the case where parallel Nicols are employed. Also, by arranging the two polarizers in a crossed Nicols relationship, the background portion is quenched and becomes almost black as shown in FIG. 2 (a), so that various hues indicating the internal state of the hair are contrasted. It can be observed well.
本実施形態においては、毛髪を評価するに際し、前記一対の保持具１４ａ，１４ｂを用いて該毛髪に張力を加えてこれを伸長させる。即ち、前記干渉色の色相を観察する前に、毛髪にその長さ方向に張力を加えてこれを伸長させ、この伸長状態の毛髪を透過した前記透過光の色相（前記干渉色の色相）を評価する。このように色相観察の前に毛髪に張力を加えることにより、色相の変化が明確になる。特に毛髪に毛髪処理等によるダメージ部がある場合は、ダメージ部が無い場合に比べて色相の変化具合がより強調される傾向がある。このような、毛髪を伸長させることによる前記干渉色の色相変化の明確化の理由は定かではないが、毛髪の長さ方向に張力を加えてこれを伸長させることにより、伸長前に比べて毛髪の結晶構造や配向状態が集約して均一化し、これにより前記干渉色の色相の変化具合がより強調されるものと推察される。 In this embodiment, when evaluating hair, tension is applied to the hair using the pair of holders 14a and 14b to elongate the hair. That is, before observing the hue of the interference color, a tension is applied to the hair in the length direction to elongate the hair, and the hue of the transmitted light (the hue of the interference color) transmitted through the elongated hair is obtained. evaluate. Thus, by applying tension to the hair before the hue observation, the hue change becomes clear. In particular, when the hair has a damaged portion due to hair treatment or the like, the hue change tends to be more emphasized than when there is no damaged portion. The reason for clarifying the hue change of the interference color by stretching the hair is not clear, but by applying tension in the length direction of the hair and stretching it, the hair is compared with before stretching. It is presumed that the crystal structure and orientation state of these are aggregated and made uniform, thereby enhancing the change in hue of the interference color.
毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させるには、図１に示すように毛髪の両端を把持してその長さ方向に沿って引っ張れば良い。毛髪に張力を加えるのは２枚の偏光子１１，１２間に挿入する前（評価装置に設置する前）でも良く、あるいは本実施形態の評価装置を用いた場合のように、評価装置上で毛髪に張力を加えてこれを伸長させつつ該毛髪の評価を行っても良い。毛髪に加える張力は特に制限されないが、張力が大きいほど、即ち、毛髪の伸長率が高いほど、上述した効果が得られやすくなる。張力の印加による毛髪の伸張率は１０〜３０％とすることが好ましい。ここで、毛髪の伸長率（％）は次式により求められる。 伸長率（％）＝〔｛（張力をかけて伸長させた後の毛髪の長さ）−（張力をかける前の毛髪の長さ）｝／（張力をかける前の毛髪の長さ）〕×１００ In order to stretch the hair by applying tension, as shown in FIG. 1, both ends of the hair may be gripped and pulled along the length direction. The tension may be applied to the hair before insertion between the two polarizers 11 and 12 (before installation in the evaluation apparatus), or on the evaluation apparatus as in the case of using the evaluation apparatus of this embodiment. You may evaluate this hair, applying tension | tensile_strength to hair and extending this. The tension applied to the hair is not particularly limited, but the higher the tension, that is, the higher the elongation rate of the hair, the more easily the effects described above can be obtained. It is preferable that the elongation rate of the hair by applying the tension is 10 to 30%. Here, the elongation rate (%) of the hair is obtained by the following equation. Elongation rate (%) = [{(length of hair after stretching by applying tension) − (length of hair before applying tension)} / (length of hair before applying tension)] × 100
本発明の評価方法及び評価装置は、日常のヘアケア、パーマや染毛等の化学処理（毛髪処理）、紫外線や自然酸化等の環境要因等によって毛髪が受けた損傷度の評価に利用することができ、これによりシャンプー、リンス、コンディショナー等の各種ヘアケア製品、パーマネント液、ブリーチ剤、染毛剤等の化学処理剤等の商品開発に応用することができる。本発明の評価方法及び評価装置に適用可能な化学処理剤（毛髪処理剤）は特に制限されず、市販のものを適宜用いることができる。市販のブリーチ剤としては、例えばホーユー社製のナチュラルブラウン（商品名）を用いることができ、またパーマネント液としては、例えば市販のチオグリコル酸系のパーマ剤を用いることができる。また本発明の評価方法及び評価装置は、人の髪の評価に特に好適に用いることができるが、眉毛、まつげ、ひげ等の毛髪以外の体毛、動物の毛の評価にも適用できる。 The evaluation method and the evaluation apparatus of the present invention can be used for evaluation of the degree of damage received on hair by daily hair care, chemical treatment (hair treatment) such as perm and hair dye, environmental factors such as ultraviolet rays and natural oxidation, etc. Thus, it can be applied to the development of products such as various hair care products such as shampoos, rinses and conditioners, chemical treatment agents such as permanent liquids, bleaching agents and hair dyes. The chemical treatment agent (hair treatment agent) applicable to the evaluation method and evaluation apparatus of the present invention is not particularly limited, and commercially available products can be used as appropriate. As a commercially available bleaching agent, for example, Natural Brown (trade name) manufactured by Hoyu can be used, and as a permanent liquid, for example, a commercially available thioglycolic acid-based permanent agent can be used. The evaluation method and evaluation apparatus of the present invention can be used particularly suitably for human hair evaluation, but can also be applied to evaluation of body hair other than hair such as eyebrows, eyelashes and beards, and animal hair.
特に本発明の評価方法及び評価装置は、前記干渉色の色相を観察する手法を採用していることにより、特許文献２に記載の方法のように平行ニコルを採用して毛髪を透過した透過光の強度を測定する場合に比して、毛髪の内部状態の色相（前記干渉色）を使って視覚的にわかりやすく示すことができるため、利用しやすいものである。また、上述したように色相環を利用することで前記干渉色の色相を数値化することが可能であり、これにより毛髪の損傷度合をより客観的に示すことができる。 In particular, the evaluation method and the evaluation apparatus of the present invention employs a technique for observing the hue of the interference color, so that transmitted light that has passed through hair using parallel Nicols as in the method described in Patent Document 2. Compared with the case of measuring the intensity of hair, it is easy to use because it can be shown visually using the hue of the internal state of the hair (interference color). In addition, as described above, the hue of the interference color can be quantified by using the hue ring, and thereby the degree of hair damage can be more objectively indicated.
本発明の評価方法及び評価装置は、例えば店頭やイベント等において行われる毛髪ダメージの診断に利用することができる。具体的には例えば、予め損傷度の異なる（パーマ処理等の毛髪処理回数が異なる）多数の毛髪サンプルについて、上述した本方法により前記干渉色の色相を観察し、その結果について色相環を用いて数値化しデータとして記録しておく。そして、毛髪ダメージの診断において受診者から毛髪サンプルを採取し、この毛髪サンプルについて本方法により前記干渉色の色相を評価し、その評価結果を前記データと照らし合わせることで、該毛髪サンプルの損傷度を診断することができる。診断結果は、モニタ−によって色付きで視覚的にわかりやすく表示されるので、受診者はこの診断結果を受けて自分の毛髪のダメージレベルを十分に把握することができ、毛髪のリペアやエイジングに対する意識をしっかりと持つことができる。 The evaluation method and the evaluation device of the present invention can be used for diagnosis of hair damage performed at, for example, a storefront or an event. Specifically, for example, with respect to a large number of hair samples having different degrees of damage (differing in the number of times of hair treatment such as permanent treatment), the hue of the interference color is observed by the above-described method, and the result is obtained using a hue ring. It is digitized and recorded as data. Then, a hair sample is collected from the examinee in the diagnosis of hair damage, the hue of the interference color is evaluated by this method for this hair sample, and the degree of damage of the hair sample is checked by comparing the evaluation result with the data. Can be diagnosed. Diagnosis results are displayed in a colored and easy-to-understand manner on the monitor, so that the examinee can fully understand the damage level of his / her hair by receiving this diagnosis result, and he / she is aware of hair repair and aging. Can hold firmly.
また、前記したように損傷度の異なる多数の毛髪サンプルについての色相データを予め用意しておかなくても、ダメージが大きい毛髪サンプルは前記干渉色の色相の変化程度が大きいため、これを利用して、該毛髪サンプルの伸張率を変化させることによっても、毛髪ダメージの診断を行うことが可能である。具体的には例えば、上述した張力の印加による毛髪の伸張率を１０〜３０％の範囲で変化させて、各伸長率における前記透過光の色相（前記干渉色の色相）の変化程度を評価することによって、毛髪ダメージの診断等を行うことができる。 Further, as described above, even if hair data for a large number of hair samples having different degrees of damage is not prepared in advance, a hair sample having a large damage has a large degree of change in the hue of the interference color. Thus, it is also possible to diagnose hair damage by changing the elongation rate of the hair sample. Specifically, for example, by changing the stretch rate of the hair by applying the tension in the range of 10 to 30%, the degree of change in the hue of the transmitted light (the hue of the interference color) at each stretch rate is evaluated. Thus, diagnosis of hair damage and the like can be performed.
以下、本発明を実施例により更に具体的に説明するが、本発明は斯かる実施例に限定されるものではない。 EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to such examples.
（毛髪サンプルの作製）
パーマネント液、毛染め剤等による化学処理を一切行っておらず、目視観察によるつや感、感触などから特に損傷が認められない毛髪サンプルを複数本用意し、該毛髪サンプルに化学処理（毛髪処理）を施して複数本の毛髪サンプルを作製した。該化学処理はブリーチ処理７回及びパーマ処理３回からなり、各処理の間には洗髪・乾燥処理を行った。
(Preparation of hair sample)
Prepare a plurality of hair samples that do not undergo any chemical treatment with permanent liquids, hair dyes, etc., and are not particularly damaged due to glossiness and feel by visual observation, and chemical treatment (hair treatment) To prepare a plurality of hair samples. The chemical treatment consisted of 7 bleach treatments and 3 perm treatments, and a hair washing and drying treatment was performed between each treatment.
〔実施例１〕
上記のようにして作製した化学処理済みの毛髪サンプルについて、下記＜色相の観察方法＞に従って前記透過光の色相（前記干渉色の色相）を観察し、デジタルカラーカメラ（ＣＩＳ社製、型番VCC-F32U29CL、画素数２００万）を用いて撮像した。毛髪サンプルの伸長率は１０％とした。カメラ架台としてモリテックス社製のMS-804を用いた。画像処理には画像処理ソフト（コグネックス社製、VisionPro Ver4.3）がインストールされたパーソナルコンピュータ（DELL社製、OptiPlex745）を用いた。各毛髪サンプルについての前記干渉色の色相を前記画像処理ソフトを用いて数値化し、色相値を求めた。該色相値は、複数本（３本）の毛髪サンプルの色相値の平均値とした。前記色相の数値化には、赤を基準（０）とした色相環で、反時計回りに一周し、最大値を２５５として、元に戻る赤を再び０とする方法を用いた。
[Example 1]
For the chemically treated hair sample prepared as described above, the hue of the transmitted light (the hue of the interference color) was observed according to the following <Hue Observation Method>, and a digital color camera (model number VCC- manufactured by CIS) was observed. F32U29CL, 2 million pixels). The elongation rate of the hair sample was 10%. MS-804 manufactured by Moritex Corporation was used as the camera mount. For image processing, a personal computer (DELL, OptiPlex745) installed with image processing software (Cognex, VisionPro Ver4.3) was used. The hue of the interference color for each hair sample was digitized using the image processing software to obtain the hue value. The hue value was the average value of the hue values of a plurality of (three) hair samples. For the numerical value of the hue, a method was used in which a hue circle with red as a reference (0) makes a round in a counterclockwise direction, the maximum value is set to 255, and red which is returned to the original is set to 0 again.
＜色相の観察方法＞
図１に示す概略構成を有する、２枚の偏光子が直交ニコル関係に配置された評価装置を用い、被評価物である毛髪サンプルに張力を加えて伸長させ、この伸長状態の毛髪サンプルを２枚の偏光子で挟んで固定したものを、該評価装置の光学ステージ上に載置されたプレパラート上に載置した。毛髪サンプルの伸長は、該サンプルの長さ方向の両端をそれぞれクリップで把持し且つ該クリップを手で持って該長さ方向に引っ張ることにより行い、色相の観察中はその伸長状態を維持した。評価装置の各構成部材は次の通りである。光源；ハロゲン照明（モリテックス社製、型番MHF-100L、１００Ｗ）、光学ステージまでの伝送ファイバー；（モリテックス社製、型番MSG6-1100S）、偏光子；（モリテックス社製、型番TDPL-6301000）、受光素子；マイクロレンズ（モリテックス社製、型番MML6-HR65D、15インチモニター倍率で200倍）、光学ステージ（X,Y）；（シグマ光機社製、TAM-1202SR）、光学ステージ（θ）；（シグマ光機社製、KSPB-1606MH）。
<Hue observation method>
Using the evaluation apparatus having the schematic configuration shown in FIG. 1 in which two polarizers are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship, tension is applied to the hair sample as the object to be evaluated, and the stretched hair sample is 2 What was pinched | interposed and fixed by the sheet | seat of the polarizer was mounted on the preparation mounted on the optical stage of this evaluation apparatus. The hair sample was stretched by holding both ends of the sample in the length direction with clips, and holding the clip by hand and pulling in the length direction, and the stretched state was maintained during the observation of the hue. Each component of the evaluation apparatus is as follows. Light source: Halogen illumination (Mortex, model MHF-100L, 100W), transmission fiber to optical stage; (Mortex, model MSG6-1100S), polarizer; (Mortex, model TDPL-6301000), light reception Element: Microlens (Mortex, model number MML6-HR65D, 200 times with 15 inch monitor magnification), optical stage (X, Y); (Sigma Kogyo, TAM-1202SR), optical stage (θ); Sigma Koki Co., Ltd., KSPB-1606MH).
〔実施例２及び３並びに比較例１〕
毛髪に加える張力を種々変更して毛髪サンプルの伸長率を変更した以外は実施例１と同様にして前記色相を観察し、色相値を求めた。実施例２は伸長率２０％、実施例３は伸長率３０％、比較例１は伸張率０％とした。
[Examples 2 and 3 and Comparative Example 1]
The hue was observed and the hue value was determined in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elongation applied to the hair sample was changed by variously changing the tension applied to the hair. Example 2 had an elongation of 20%, Example 3 had an elongation of 30%, and Comparative Example 1 had an elongation of 0%.
〔実施例４〜６及び比較例２〕
化学処理を行っていない毛髪サンプルを使用し且つ毛髪に加える張力を種々変更して毛髪サンプルの伸長率を変更した以外は実施例１と同様にして前記色相を観察し、色相値を求めた。実施例４は伸長率１０％、実施例５は伸長率２０％、実施例６は伸長率３０％、比較例２は伸張率０％とした。
[Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Example 2]
The hue was observed and the hue value was determined in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the hair sample not subjected to chemical treatment was used and the tension applied to the hair was variously changed to change the elongation rate of the hair sample. Example 4 had an elongation rate of 10%, Example 5 had an elongation rate of 20%, Example 6 had an elongation rate of 30%, and Comparative Example 2 had an elongation rate of 0%.
図３（ａ）には、比較例１及び実施例１〜３で得られた化学処理（毛髪処理）有りの毛髪サンプルについての前記干渉色の色相値（第２の偏光子を透過した透過光の色相値）、図３（ｂ）には、比較例２及び実施例４〜６で得られた化学処理無しの毛髪サンプルについての該色相値がそれぞれ棒グラフで示されている。また図４は、色相値の変化率（色相変化率）と各実施例における毛髪サンプルの伸長率との関係を示すグラフであり、図４（ａ）は、実施例１〜３で得られた化学処理有りの毛髪サンプルについてのグラフ、図４（ｂ）は、実施例４〜６で得られた化学処理無しの毛髪サンプルについてのグラフである。ここで、色相変化率は、伸長率０％のときの色相値（比較例１及び２）と毛髪サンプルを伸長させたときの色相値（各実施例）との差分の割合であり、下記式から求められる。尚、下記式において、２５５は、色相の数値化に用いた色相環の１周分の最大値であり、固定値である。また、前記差分が負の値となった場合のために、下記式で求められる色相変化率は絶対値とする。 色相変化率 ＝ ｜ [（伸張率０％のときの色相値）−（所定の伸張率のときの色相値）]／２５５ ｜ FIG. 3A shows the hue value of the interference color (transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer) for the hair sample with chemical treatment (hair treatment) obtained in Comparative Example 1 and Examples 1-3. In FIG. 3B, the hue values of the hair samples without chemical treatment obtained in Comparative Example 2 and Examples 4 to 6 are shown as bar graphs. Moreover, FIG. 4 is a graph which shows the relationship between the change rate (hue change rate) of a hue value, and the elongation rate of the hair sample in each Example, and FIG. 4 (a) was obtained in Examples 1-3. The graph about the hair sample with a chemical treatment, FIG.4 (b) is a graph about the hair sample without the chemical treatment obtained in Examples 4-6. Here, the hue change rate is the ratio of the difference between the hue value (comparative examples 1 and 2) when the elongation rate is 0% and the hue value (each example) when the hair sample is stretched. It is requested from. In the following formula, 255 is the maximum value for one round of the hue circle used for the numerical value of the hue, and is a fixed value. In addition, since the difference becomes a negative value, the hue change rate obtained by the following equation is an absolute value. Hue change rate = | [[(Hue value at 0% expansion rate) − (Hue value at a predetermined expansion rate)] / 255 |
図３から明らかなように、化学処理の有無によらず、毛髪サンプルの伸張率が変化（増加）すると前記干渉色の色相値が変化（減少）する傾向があり、伸長率によって毛髪の内部状態が異なることがわかる。また図４から明らかなように、化学処理の有無によらず、伸張率が増加すると色相変化率も増加する傾向があり、特に図４（ａ）と図４（ｂ）との比較から明らかなように、化学処理有りの場合、即ち毛髪に化学処理によるダメージ部がある場合は、化学処理無しの場合に比べて、色相の変化具合がより強調される傾向がある。尚、実施例１〜３では、毛髪サンプルの化学処理の回数が１０回（ブリーチ処理７回及びパーマ処理３回）であったが、化学処理の回数や内容が異なっても上記と同様の傾向があることを本発明者らは確認している。以上の結果から、本実施例のように２枚の偏光子を直交ニコル関係に配置し且つ毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させた状態で前記干渉色の色相を評価することにより、該色相の変化を見逃すおそれが低減して該変化を的確に把握することが可能となり、毛髪処理等による毛髪の損傷度を感度良く且つ簡便に評価することが可能となることが明らかである。 As is apparent from FIG. 3, the hue value of the interference color tends to change (decrease) when the elongation rate of the hair sample changes (increases) regardless of the presence or absence of chemical treatment. Are different. Further, as apparent from FIG. 4, regardless of the presence or absence of chemical treatment, the hue change rate tends to increase as the elongation rate increases, and it is particularly clear from the comparison between FIG. 4 (a) and FIG. 4 (b). Thus, when there is a chemical treatment, that is, when there is a damaged portion due to the chemical treatment on the hair, the hue change tends to be more emphasized than when there is no chemical treatment. In Examples 1 to 3, the number of times of chemical treatment of the hair sample was 10 times (7 times of bleaching treatment and 3 times of permanent treatment). The present inventors have confirmed that there is. From the above results, the change in the hue is evaluated by evaluating the hue of the interference color in a state where two polarizers are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship as in this embodiment and the hair is stretched by applying tension. It is clear that it is possible to accurately grasp the change by reducing the risk of overlooking the hair, and to easily and easily evaluate the degree of hair damage due to hair treatment or the like.
１０ 光源
１１ 第１の偏光子
１２ 第２の偏光子
１３ 受光素子
１４ａ，１４ｂ 保持具（保持手段）
２０ 毛髪
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 10 Light source 11 1st polarizer 12 2nd polarizer 13 Light receiving element 14a, 14b Holder (holding means)
20 hair
Claims (5)
前記第１の偏光子と前記第２の偏光子とは直交ニコル関係に配置されており、
前記毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させ、伸長した該毛髪を透過した前記透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価方法。 The hair is irradiated with light polarized by the first polarizer, the light transmitted through the hair is transmitted through the second polarizer arranged in the optical path, and the hue of the transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer A method for evaluating the internal state of the hair,
The first polarizer and the second polarizer are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship,
A method for evaluating the internal state of hair, wherein the hair is elongated by applying tension, and the hue of the transmitted light transmitted through the elongated hair is evaluated.
前記第１の偏光子と前記第２の偏光子とは直交ニコル関係に配置されており、
前記毛髪に張力を加えて伸長させた状態で該毛髪を保持する保持手段を備え、該保持手段によって伸長状態で固定された毛髪を透過した前記透過光の色相を評価する毛髪の内部状態評価装置。 The hair is irradiated with light polarized by the first polarizer, the light transmitted through the hair is transmitted through the second polarizer arranged in the optical path, and the hue of the transmitted light transmitted through the second polarizer A device for evaluating the internal state of hair,
The first polarizer and the second polarizer are arranged in a crossed Nicols relationship,
A device for evaluating the internal state of hair, comprising: holding means for holding the hair in a stretched state by applying tension to the hair, and evaluating the hue of the transmitted light that has passed through the hair fixed in the stretched state by the holding means .
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