JP4607700B2 - Permanent wave processing method - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a permanent wave processing method that can prevent the wave from becoming loose even if the hair is dried after performing the permanent wave process, and can increase the duration of the wave.

  A permanent wave processing method that has been conventionally employed in a hairdressing salon will be described. First, a permanent first agent containing a reducing agent is applied to the subject's hair, lightly moistened and wound on a rod, and the permanent first agent is further applied in a state of being wound around the rod in a room temperature environment. Leave for a predetermined time. When this permanent first agent is applied and allowed to stand, the disulfide bond of the hair protein keratin is opened to generate a mercapto group, and the hair is swollen and softened.

  After the predetermined time, the practitioner performs a test curl to determine the degree of swelling and softening, that is, whether the hair is soft and plasticized, and if it is determined that the softening has occurred, the reducing agent attached to the hair surface is washed away and the towel is washed away. Wipe off any water adhering to the hair by using a method such as Then, a permanent second agent containing an oxidizing agent is applied to the hair from which moisture has been wiped off and left for a predetermined time in a room temperature environment to oxidize mercapto groups and recombine disulfide bonds to form waves. When the predetermined time has elapsed, the rod is removed, washed with water, and then dried with a drier or the like to complete the permanent wave treatment.

  By the way, in the above-described permanent wave processing method, there was an advantage that a lot of skill was not required, but the wave was kept strong when the treated hair was sufficiently wet. However, when it dries, the wave becomes loose (sagging) and the duration of the wave is short.

The result when this normal permanent process is performed will be described with reference to FIGS.
In each figure, the left photograph group (three sheets) shows a wet state immediately after washing, and the right photograph group shows a dried state. Also, the photographs on the right side (described as the conventional method) in the wet and dry photograph groups in each figure are processed by the conventional method described above.

As hair, straight hair (untreated hair) having a length of 30 cm is wound around a rod having a diameter of 20 mm, and as a drug, a permanent first agent (pH: 8. 8 TG: 6.0% CYC: 0.1%
DTDG: 0.5% alkali: 5.2 ml) was applied to the hair wound on the rod, left at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 15 minutes, washed with water, and brominated acid as an oxidizing agent. A permanent second agent (pH: 6.2 NaBrO3: 7.0%) as a main component was applied and left to stand for 15 minutes. FIG. 1 shows a wet state and a dried state after the treatment, and FIGS. 2 to 5 show a state after every two weeks from the treatment until 8 weeks in FIG. During the period of 8 weeks after the treatment, the hair was washed daily, dried naturally and photographed every 2 weeks.

  After the treatment, the wave state in the wet state and the dry state is substantially the same, but in the photo every two weeks, in the wet state and the dry state, the dry hair is It turns out that it is gradually getting loose. That is, with the passage of time, the wave becomes loose and the sustainability is deteriorated.

  As described above, the currently widely used treatment methods have drawbacks that they become loose in the dry state of hair and have a short wave duration. There is an invention disclosed in 262798. In order to explain the permanent wave treatment method of the present invention in comparison with the treatment method currently used, the permanent first agent is directly applied to the hair before it is wound around the rod, and left for 5 to 20 minutes. To swell and soften the hair and test curl.

  As a result of the test curl, when it is determined that the hair is swollen and softened, the hair is washed with water, the reducing agent is washed away, the moisture is wiped off, and then the hair is wound around the rod, and then the rod is energized with 80-140 Heat the hair at 1-30 minutes. And it is the processing method of removing the heated hair from a rod, apply | coating the permanent 2nd agent containing an oxidizing agent, leaving it for 1 to 15 minutes, washing with water, and drying.

The photograph of the hair processed by this method is demonstrated with the left side (Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2004-262798) of FIGS. In addition, as processing conditions, it carried out on the same conditions as the above-mentioned normal permanent. Also, in the upper part of the hair (the root part in the case of human hair), the rod is heated to 80 to 140 degrees and there is a risk of burns etc. on the human scalp. From the half of the length, only the lower part was wound around the rod. As can be seen from the photograph, even after 6 weeks from the processing, the wave is maintained even in the dry state as compared with the conventional permanent described above, and it can be seen that the wave lasts longer than the conventional permanent.
JP 2004-262798 A

  By the way, in the above-mentioned permanent wave processing method, in order to apply the permanent first agent to straight hair that is not wound around the rod, a highly viscous drug is used so that the drug does not flow down from the hair. It will be. Therefore, when the practitioner judges the swelling and softening state of the hair by the test curl, the degree of swelling and softening is difficult to understand because the highly viscous drug different from the conventional one is attached, and the permanent first agent is often used. It is often wrong to judge the duration of action. Therefore, if the action time is short, there is a problem that a desired wave cannot be obtained, and conversely, there is a drawback that hair damage occurs in an excessive action time. Furthermore, since it swells and softens in a straight state, the elongation stress that occurs when it is wound around the rod is easily eliminated, and the rearrangement of the constituent keratin molecules that are in the shape of the rod is unlikely to occur. There is a drawback that it becomes weaker than the processing method.

  In addition, when the permanent first agent is washed away, since a highly viscous drug is attached to the hair, it is necessary to wash the hair for a longer time than before, so more protein flows out from the hair that has been swollen and softened by washing the hair. There is also a problem of increasing hair damage.

  Furthermore, when wiping off the moisture from the washed-out hair and winding the rod, there is a variation in the wave formed by the difference in moisture due to the degree of moisture to wipe off and the time difference between the start and end of winding because many rods are wound. There is also a problem that a stable wave cannot be formed.

  In addition, in the state where the hair is wound around the rod, the rod is heated to 80 to 140 degrees, so that the damage to the hair becomes large, and the head of the person to be treated becomes hot, causing discomfort or burns. There is also a possibility, and since it cannot be wound around the rod up to the root of the hair, there is a disadvantage that the design expressed by the wave is limited.

  The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems. The object of the present invention is to form a faithful wave (strong) on the rod, and the wave does not become loose even when dried, and the initial wave state. In addition, it is desirable to provide a permanent wave processing method that allows a permanent treatment to be performed in a simple, safe, and reliable manner with few technical standards to be acquired by the practitioner.

The permanent wave processing method of the present invention is intended to achieve the above-mentioned object, and the means of claim 1 includes a first step of winding the hair around a plurality of rods having a large number of holes , and the wound hair. second step and wash flow to the hair a permanent first agent attached to swell softened hair to swell softens the hair was allowed to at room temperature environment by applying the permanent first agent containing a reducing agent for A third step of increasing moisture diffusion into the tube, and connecting the plurality of rods to a suction pipe connected to the suction means, creating a heated atmosphere that does not damage the hair , and driving the suction means And applying a permanent second agent containing an oxidant to the hair dried in the fourth step by suctioning the warm air with the inside of the rod in a negative pressure state and sucking the warm air. room temperature Allowed to form in the dry state by recombining disulfide bonds Te comprising a fifth step of storing.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, in the first aspect, the temperature of the heated atmosphere in the fourth step is 60 ° C. or less.

  As described above, in the present invention, the hair is deformed with a rod or the like, and the permanent first agent containing the reducing agent is applied to swell and soften, and the molecules inside the hair are relatively moved and rearranged. After making the molecule not move (glass state), a permanent second agent containing an oxidizing agent is applied to fix and memorize the deformation state of the hair at that time. Therefore, the hair remembers a natural dry state rather than a wet state as in the prior art, and the formed wave is strong and lasts for a long time.

  Moreover, by performing drying after washing away the permanent first agent adhering to the swollen and softened hair at 60 degrees or less, it is possible to suppress damage to the hair without damaging the hair. By blowing warm air and making the inside of the rod in a negative pressure state in the process, the hair wound around the rod can be dried at a low temperature in a short time, and therefore the permanent processing time can be reduced. It has the effect that it can be shortened.

  In the present invention, the hair is deformed with a rod or the like, swollen and softened with the permanent first agent, and after being washed with water, the deformed state is maintained as a dry state by a de-swelling process, and then the permanent second agent is applied. This is a permanent wave processing method for storing a deformation state.

Next, the permanent wave processing method according to the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
First, the hair is wound from the root around a rod having a large number of holes opened on the surface (step S1). When the hair is wound around the rod, the hair-constituting keratin molecules are subjected to elongation strain corresponding to the winding tension, and the constituent molecules generate stress corresponding to the strain.

  In this state, a permanent first agent containing a reducing agent is applied to the hair wound around the rod and left for 3 to 30 minutes in a room temperature environment (step S2). When this permanent first agent is applied, the motility of non-keratin protein molecules is increased by the action of moisture contained in the permanent first agent, and stress relaxation is caused by rearrangement in a direction to eliminate the generated distortion. And with the passage of time after the permanent first agent application, the disulfide bond of the cortex cell constituent keratin protein is mainly opened, and the water diffusion to the structure area that cannot be penetrated until then is promoted.

  Due to this water diffusion, the hair swells in the cross-sectional direction, and the swelling action that shrinks in the fiber axis direction causes the hair to strongly tighten the rod. As a result, cortex cells located on the outer side farther than the rod generate elongation strain and cortex cells located on the inner side generate compressive strain. However, because the disulfide bond is broken, the keratin molecules rearrange in a direction that eliminates this distortion.

  Next, after the elapsed time, a test curl is performed to confirm whether the hair is sufficiently swollen and softened (step S3). If it is confirmed that the hair is swollen and softened, the hair is wound around the rod and the permanent is wound. The first agent is washed away, and the moisture on the hair surface is gently wiped off with a towel (step S4). The purpose of this washing with water is to remove the permanent first agent, but water diffusion into the hair increases due to the osmotic pressure effect. This swelling generates new strain, but strain relaxation occurs by rearrangement of the constituent keratin molecules. As a result, a molecular arrangement most suitable for the rod shape can be obtained by this washing step.

  Then, after towel drying, a suction pipe connected to suction means (not shown) is inserted into the rod, and the head is positioned in an atmosphere heated to 30 to 55 ° C. The hair is heated and a negative pressure is applied to the inside of the rod by the suction pipe, so that warm air passes through the hair and the hair is de-swelled and dried in a short time. Next, the blowing of warm air is stopped and only suction is performed to cool the hair to room temperature (step S5). The drying is not forced drying but takes a drying time, but may be natural drying or other drying means (for example, a hand dryer).

In addition, there exists a permanent wave processing apparatus shown in FIG. 7 or FIG. 8 as a concrete structure which shortens drying time by making the inside of a rod into a negative pressure in the said heating atmosphere.
First, the permanent wave processing apparatus A shown in FIG. 7 includes a suction means 1 and a blower means 2 for blowing hot air, which will be described in detail later, housed in a column standing from a base (not shown) to which casters are attached. It comprises a housing and a hood 4 that covers the head of the patient attached to the top of the housing.

  The inside of the lead-out part in the housing is provided with a partition plate 3, which is divided into a suction chamber and a blower chamber, and motors 11 and 21 are fixed on both surfaces of the partition plate 3 back to back. A sirocco suction fan 12 is attached to the motor 11, and a sirocco blower 22 is attached to the motor 21.

  An exhaust duct 13 is connected to the exhaust side of the suction chamber. A silencer filter 14 that also serves as a filter is attached to the exhaust port of the exhaust duct 13, and one end of the side surface of the suction fan 22 will be described later. An exhaust port of a vacuum duct 15 connected to a ring-shaped suction pipe 43 installed in the hood 4 is arranged. Further, a dust filter 16 is attached in the middle of the vacuum duct 15.

  On the other hand, an intake filter 23 is attached to a wall surface corresponding to the suction port by the blower fan 22 of the housing constituting the blower chamber, and one end for blowing warm air into the hood 4 in the blower chamber. The other end of the hot air duct 24 that opens to the back side of the hood 4 is attached. A heater 25 for heating the air blown from the blower fan 22 is attached in the middle of the hot air duct 24. Although not shown, an ion generator for negatively ionizing the hot air from the hot air duct 24 may be attached.

  The hood 4 is composed of a fixed hood 41 and an open / close hood 42 as in the invention disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-416 filed by the present applicant, and the open / close hood 42 is in front of the patient. It is opened on the part side, and in this open state, it is configured such that various treatments such as application of a chemical solution can be performed from the occipital side of the practitioner.

  A suction pipe 43 to which the vacuum duct 15 is connected is attached to the inner peripheral surface of the fixed hood 41, and the connection tool 5 is attached to a plurality of locations of the suction pipe 43, and is detachable from the connection tool 5. A suction tube 6 is attached. The suction tube 6 is divided into a plurality of parts on the way, and each tip is detachably connected to the rod R around which the hair of the person to be treated is wound. Although not shown, the rod R has a shape with a large number of holes so that hot air in the hood 4 is sucked through the hair while the hair is wound around the rod R.

  Although not shown, an operation panel is attached to the back of the housing, equipped with operation buttons such as a power button, an air temperature adjustment button, a time setting button, and a display surface for displaying temperature and time. And the control circuit for stopping ventilation and suction by temperature monitoring is built in.

  By using the permanent wave processing apparatus configured as described above, the tip of the suction tube 6 branched in a state where the open / close hood 41 in the hood 4 is opened forward in the drying step of step S5 described above is connected to the rod R. Connect to. Thereafter, the open / close hood 42 is closed, the temperature and time of the hot air are set by operating the operation panel, and the air blowing means 2 and the suction means 1 are brought into a driving state. Then, the blower fan 22 rotates, clean air flows into the hot air duct 24 through the intake filter 23, and hot air heated by the heater 25 is supplied into the hood 4.

  On the other hand, since the suction fan 12 also rotates, it is exhausted to the exhaust duct 13 via the suction tube 6, the suction pipe 43 and the vacuum duct 15, so that the inside of the rod R is in a negative pressure state and the warm air in the hood 4 is It passes through the hair and is exhausted from the suction pipe 43 through the air circulation portion formed in the rod R. At this time, since many air circulation parts are formed in the rod R, the warm air passes through the whole wound around the rod R, and drying is performed in a short time. When the drying is finished, the air blowing means 3 is stopped, and only the suction means 2 is operated to cool the hair warmed by suction.

Next, another permanent wave processing apparatus B shown in FIG. 8 will be described.
While the permanent wave processing device of FIG. 7 described above has heated the atmosphere in the hood 4, the permanent wave processing device B radiates heat from the heater to the entire head of the patient, In this state, the hair is dried by making the inside of the rod R into a negative pressure state.

  The structure rotates a heater and a heat source 9a formed in a ring shape for radiating heat from the heater through a reflector so as to radiate the entire head of the patient. The heating means 9 having the structure disclosed in Japanese Patent No. -221104 and the suction device 101 incorporating only the suction means 1 described above. The suction tube 6 is drawn out from the suction device 101, and the rod R is attached to the tube branched from the suction tube 6, thereby heating means similar to the processing device A in FIG. Since the head atmosphere of the person to be treated is heated by 9, the heat can be sucked through the rod R to dry the hair in a short time.

  As described above, after drying and cooling in the state wound around the rod in step S5, a permanent second agent containing an oxidizing agent is applied and left at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes to recombine disulfide bonds. (Step S6). As a result, the natural state (the same dry state as in the daily living environment) is stored, and the wave state wound around the rod is maintained even if the rod is removed.

  Next, after removing the rod from the hair (step S7) and plain rinsing (step S8), when the wave is confirmed (step S9), it becomes wet as shown in the middle picture (shown as the present invention) in FIG. A firm wave is confirmed in both dry and dry conditions. Moreover, as shown in FIG. 2 to FIG. 5, the hair in the dry state does not become looser than the conventional two examples and maintains the initial wave state even when the period elapses.

  The point of the permanent treatment method will be described with reference to the glass transition point of hair shown in FIG. FIG. 9 is a graph showing the relationship between the amount of water contained in hair and the glass transition point. High molecular substances including hair have a property of glass transition point at which molecular mobility changes. The glass transition point refers to a temperature at which a temperature changes from a rubber-like state in which a substance can be deformed or moved to lose the flexibility like a rubber and change to a glass state. In the case of hair, the glass transition point changes with the proportion of moisture contained in the hair, and is about 100 ° C. in a dry state. The effect of the permanent treatment of the present invention utilizes this property.

  When the treatment is performed by the conventional permanent treatment method, the hair is sufficiently absorbed into the hair and wetted, that is, in the state A shown in FIG. Normally, in an environment where a human lives, the hair is in a dry state, that is, state B. In this state, the hair is distorted and the force to return to state A is working. As a result, the formed wave becomes weak and the duration is shortened due to the influence of the gravity of the hair and the repetition of hair washing.

  The permanent processing method of the present invention is recombined in the state B shown in FIG. 9, that is, the same dry state as in the daily living environment. As a result, the hair is not distorted in the daily living environment, and the formed wave is not loosened while being held, and the holding period is prolonged.

It is a comparison photograph of the wet state and the dried state immediately after processing of the wave formed by the permanent wave processing method of the present invention and the permanent wave processing method of the conventional example. It is a comparison photograph after 2 weeks. It is a comparative photograph after 4 weeks. It is a comparative photograph after 6 weeks. It is a comparative photograph after 8 weeks. It is a flowchart for demonstrating the permanent wave processing method of this invention. It is a perspective view of 1st Example of the permanent wave processing apparatus for drying hair. It is a perspective view of the 2nd example of a permanent wave processing device. It is a characteristic view which shows the glass transition point of hair.

Claims (2)

A first step of winding hair around a plurality of rods with a plurality of holes ;
A second step of applying a permanent first agent containing a reducing agent to the wound hair and leaving it in a room temperature environment to swell and soften the hair;
A third step of increasing the water diffusion into the hair a permanent first agent attached to swell softened hair and wash stream,
The plurality of rods are connected to a suction pipe connected to the suction means, and a warming atmosphere that does not damage hair is created , and the suction means is driven to bring the inside of the rods into a negative pressure state so that the warm air A fourth step of sucking and drying the hair ;
A fifth step of storing a shape in a dry state by applying a permanent second agent containing an oxidizing agent to the hair dried in the fourth step and allowing it to stand at room temperature to recombine disulfide bonds; ,
A permanent wave processing method. The permanent wave processing method according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the heated atmosphere in the fourth step is 60 ° C. or less.