JP4340099B2 - Stuffed collar - Google Patents

Stuffed collar Download PDF

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Publication number
JP4340099B2
JP4340099B2 JP2003174005A JP2003174005A JP4340099B2 JP 4340099 B2 JP4340099 B2 JP 4340099B2 JP 2003174005 A JP2003174005 A JP 2003174005A JP 2003174005 A JP2003174005 A JP 2003174005A JP 4340099 B2 JP4340099 B2 JP 4340099B2
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Japan
Prior art keywords
collar
sewn
stuffed
piping material
stand
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Expired - Fee Related
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JP2003174005A
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Japanese (ja)
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JP2005009020A (en
Inventor
宣行 鳥越
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日本被服株式会社
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、男子学生服に代表される詰め襟の改良に関するものであり、より詳しくはソフトで着用時の窮屈感がない詰め襟の構造に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
男子学生服の詰め襟は、旧来は襟の内側に着脱式で白色薄板状の合成樹脂製カラーを装着使用するのが一般的であったが、着用時における襟周りの窮屈感が敬遠されるようになったため、近時では人工皮革や不織布シート等の軟質材料を芯材として表裏を生地で覆いつつ、頂部に白色パイピング材を擬似カラーとして装着したソフトな詰め襟が主流となっている。ところが、襟部分を柔軟に仕立て過ぎると、着用時等に型崩れし易く、襟先の留めホック金具を外した状態にあっては左右両襟先が揃わず、襟先同士が離隔し襟元がだらしなく開いてしまい、外観を損ねるという難点があった。とくに成長期にある生徒は留めホック金具を嵌めたがらないし、ソフトな詰め襟では襟先の保形性に欠けるので、着用時に襟先が綺麗に揃わないといった欠点があったのである。
【0003】
そこで、前記合成樹脂製カラーを用いないソフトな詰め襟でありながら、留めホック金具を用いることなく襟先の保形性を確保するために、芯材の一部等に形状記憶合金などの異種材料を重ねて用いることが提案されている。例えば、特開2001−123309号(特許文献1)では、芯材の両側部分の側面に長手方向に伸びかつ襟の外側に向かって凸となる円弧状に湾曲した形状記憶合金部材を取り付ける襟構造が提案されている。また、特開2001−271201号(特許文献2)においても、襟芯における左右襟先付近において予め湾曲させた金属製又は合成樹脂製等の癖付け部材を装着した襟構造が提案されている。
【0004】
【特許文献1】
特開2001−123309号公報(特許請求の範囲、図3)
【特許文献2】
特開2001−271201号公報(特許請求の範囲、図7及び図11)
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
確かに、前記いずれの襟構造においても、合成樹脂製カラーを使用しないソフトな詰め襟において、左右襟先部分に留めホック金具を用いることなく着用時の保形性が確保できるようになったのであるが、詰め襟内に襟芯を用いつつ、更に襟先においては襟芯に重ねて金属製又は硬質合成樹脂製の癖付け部材を用いているために、依然として詰め襟の全周に亘って硬さが残ってしまう。それ故、首を動かすと着用者の喉や首周りに詰め襟上端縁が突き当たり、首の円滑な動きを妨げる結果、窮屈感が残るといった難点があった。
【0006】
本発明は前記事情に鑑みてなされたものであり、よりソフトで首の動きに追従し易く着用者に窮屈感を与えないながらも、詰め襟本来のキッチリとした外観を損なわない詰め襟構造の提供を課題とするものである。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
前記所期の課題解決のため、本発明に係る詰め襟構造では、頂部の全周に白色パイピング材を縫着した擬似カラーを有する詰め襟として、硬質襟芯を内包することなく基端を襟ぐりに縫着された襟台と、該襟台頂部に縫着された白色パイピング材に上端を縫着され前記襟台を覆う幅で垂下された表襟とが二重襟状をなすようにし、前記襟台の基端と前記表襟の下端とが左右の襟先部分のみにおいて縫着されるように形成した。
【0008】
硬質襟芯とは、不織布や捺染廃材を圧着したものをはじめ人工皮革など従来から襟芯として用いられていた各種素材からなる襟芯を指し、襟芯として用いられてきたものであれば柔軟な素材からなる襟芯も含むものである。本発明に係る詰め襟構造では、こうした従来の襟芯を全く用いることなく襟台を形成したので、着用者の首の動き等により詰め襟が縦方向(詰め襟の立設方向)に押圧されると、表襟が肩や身頃方向に逃げながら、襟台のみが押圧力に追従して変形する。
【0009】
表襟の下端を自由端としつつ、襟台と表襟を二重襟状としただけであれば、詰め襟に対する押圧力が解消された際においても詰め襟が元の状態に復帰しづらいのであるが、本発明では襟台の基端と前記表襟の下端とが左右の襟先部分のみにおいて縫着されていることが、着用者の首周りで環状をなしているという詰め襟本来の形状と相俟って、元の立設状態へと復帰し易くなっている。
【0010】
また、本発明に係る詰め襟構造では、左右の襟先部分が曲線を描きながら襟ぐりに至る形状をなすようにし、詰め襟の頂部に縫着された白色パイピング材が前記襟先部分にまで延長するように縫着することで、着用時における襟元ラインを綺麗に見せることができる。
【0011】
そして、前記表襟は、身頃と同じ生地を用いて長手方向二つ折りに縫合形成することで容易に得られるし、前記襟台については、裏地となる内側と表地となる表側の両方に通気性生地を用いて縫合することで、首周りにおける通気性を高め着用時のムレ等を防止することが可能となる。例えば、内側生地(襟台裏地)として起毛トリコット生地を用いる一方、表側生地(襟台表地)としてメッシュ生地を用いる等、内側と表側とで素材の異なる通気性生地を用いることにしてもよい。
【0012】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、図面に基づいて本発明を詳細に説明する。図1は本発明に係る詰め襟構造を男子学生服に適用した例の正面図、図2は同詰め襟構造における襟先部分の一部破断拡大図、図3は図2におけるA−A線端面図である。
【0013】
これら図示された例の詰め襟構造は、頂部11の全周に亘って白色パイピング材2を縫着した擬似カラーを有する詰め襟1として提供されるものであり、左右の前身頃Mの上部に設けられた襟ぐりM1に対して縫着される。
【0014】
図3に示されるように、襟台3は、襟台表地31と襟台裏地32を合わせてなるものであるが、従来の詰め襟に見られるような硬質襟芯は内包していない。襟台3の基端311は、襟ぐりM1において前身頃Mと前身頃裏地mとともに縫着線34により縫合されている。他方、襟台3における襟台頂部312には白色パイピング材2が縫着線33により縫合されている。後述する表襟4によって襟台表地31は外部から見えないように隠されるので、襟台表地31にメッシュ生地を用いる一方、襟台裏地32にも通気性があり肌触りがよい起毛トリコット生地を用いることによって、完成された襟台3全体として通気性が確保されることになる。
【0015】
前記襟台頂部312には、白色パイピング材2とともに表襟4が縫着される。先の図3に示されるように、本例の詰め襟1では、前記白色パイピング材2に上端を縫着された表襟4は、長手方向二つ折りに、つまり襟台3を覆う幅に垂下された表襟表地41と、再び上端側に向けて折り返された表襟折返し42とが、縫着線43によって縫合形成されている。
【0016】
こうして形成された襟台3と表襟4は、図3に示される断面方向からみると二重襟状をなし、かつ、表襟4の下端は自由端として形成されているのであるが、これら襟台3の基端と表襟4の下端とは、左右の襟先部分においてのみ縫着されることになる。すなわち、図2に示された右襟先部分では、襟先部分13が曲線を描きながら襟ぐりM1部分に至る形状をなしており、縫合部Xにおいてのみ襟台3の基端と表襟4が縫着されている。襟先部分13の曲線形状は、着用者の襟元において真っ直ぐに立ち上がるように見える形状としておくと、後ろ襟から襟ぐりM1部分に至るまで延長した白色パイピング材2が美しいラインを描くようになる。また、縫合部Xの長さは1.5cm程度もあれば十分であるが、それ以上の長さに設定することは任意である。
【0017】
【発明の効果】
本発明に係る詰め襟構造によれば、下端縁を自由端とした左右の表襟が襟先部分のみにおいて襟台基端と縫着されているので、襟先部分の保形性に優れている。したがって、着用時においても襟先の合わせ部分がだらしなく開くことがなく綺麗に揃うため、留めホック金具を用いなくても美しい着こなしが得られる。とくに折り目に相当する襟の頂部のラインを、襟先において曲線を描きながら襟ぐりに至るように滑らかに形成しつつ襟元まで白色パイピング材を延長して施した場合には、白色パイピング材がアクセントとなって綺麗である。
【0018】
また、従来のような襟芯を全く包含しない襟台部分は着用者の首の動きに追従して柔軟に変形する一方、身頃と同じ生地を用いて長手方向二つ折りに縫合形成された表襟は常に平坦面を保ちながら略上下方向にスライド移動するので、しっかりとした詰め襟の印象は損なわれず、外観的にも従来の詰め襟学生服等と何ら変わることがない。
【0019】
そして、襟芯を包含せず、通気性のある生地のみで形成された襟台は、表襟下端縁との間が開放されていることと相俟って、着用者の首周りのムレを防止し、快適な着心地が得られるのである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明に係る詰め襟構造を男子学生服に適用した例の正面図である。
【図2】図1の詰め襟構造における襟先部分の一部破断拡大図である。
【図3】図2におけるA−A線端面図である。
【符号の説明】
1 詰め襟
2 白色パイピング材
3 襟台
4 表襟
311 襟台基端
312 襟台頂部
M 前身頃
M1 襟ぐり
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to improvement of a stuffed collar typified by boys' school uniforms, and more particularly to a stuffed collar structure that is soft and does not feel cramped when worn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In the past, it was common for men's school uniforms to be fitted with a detachable white thin plastic resin collar on the inside of the collar, but the tightness around the collar when worn is discouraged. Therefore, recently, soft stuffed collars with soft materials such as artificial leather and non-woven sheets as the core and covering the front and back with fabric and white piping material as a pseudo color on the top are the mainstream. However, if the collar part is tailored too flexibly, it will be easily deformed when worn, etc., and the left and right necks will not be aligned when the hooks on the neck are removed, the necks will be separated and the neck will be separated. There was a problem that it opened gently and the appearance was damaged. In particular, students who are growing up are not willing to put on hook metal fittings, and the soft stuffed collar lacks the shape-retaining ability of the collar, so it has the disadvantage that the collar does not align neatly when worn.
[0003]
Therefore, in order to ensure the shape-retaining property of the collar tip without using a hook-and-hook fitting, while using a soft collar that does not use the synthetic resin collar, a dissimilar material such as a shape memory alloy is used as a part of the core. It has been proposed to use two or more of them. For example, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-123309 (Patent Document 1), a collar structure in which a shape memory alloy member curved in an arc shape extending in the longitudinal direction and projecting toward the outer side of the collar is attached to the side surfaces of both side portions of the core material. Has been proposed. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2001-271201 (Patent Document 2) also proposes a collar structure in which a brazing member made of metal or synthetic resin, which is curved in advance in the vicinity of the left and right collar tips of the collar core, is mounted.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-123309 (Claims, FIG. 3)
[Patent Document 2]
JP 2001-271001 (Claims, FIGS. 7 and 11)
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Certainly, in any of the collar structures described above, in a soft stuffed collar that does not use a synthetic resin collar, it has become possible to ensure shape retention when worn without using hook metal fittings at the left and right collar ends. However, while using a collar core in the stuffing collar and using a brazing member made of metal or hard synthetic resin over the collar core at the collar tip, the hardness still remains around the circumference of the stuffing collar. It will remain. Therefore, when the neck is moved, the upper end edge of the collar comes into contact with the wearer's throat and neck, and the smooth movement of the neck is hindered.
[0006]
The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and provides a stuffed collar structure that is softer and easier to follow the movement of the neck and does not give the wearer a tight feeling, but does not impair the original appearance of the stuffed collar. It is to be an issue.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, in the stuffed collar structure according to the present invention, the base end is sewn to the neckline without enclosing a hard collar core as a stuffed collar having a pseudo collar with a white piping material sewn all around the top. The collar that is worn and the outer collar that is sewn at the upper end of the white piping material sewn on the top of the collar and that hangs down to cover the collar forms a double collar. The base end of the base and the lower end of the front collar were formed so as to be sewn only at the left and right collar ends.
[0008]
A hard collar core refers to a collar core made of various materials conventionally used as a collar core, such as a non-woven fabric or printed waste materials, and artificial leather, and is flexible if it has been used as a collar core. It also includes a collar core made of material. In the stuffed collar structure according to the present invention, since the collar base is formed without using such a conventional collar core, when the stuffed collar is pressed in the vertical direction (standing direction of the stuffed collar) by the movement of the neck of the wearer, Only the collar base is deformed following the pressing force while the front collar runs away in the shoulder and body direction.
[0009]
If the collar stand and the front collar are only double-collared while the lower end of the front collar is the free end, it will be difficult for the filling collar to return to its original state even when the pressing force against the filling collar is eliminated. In the present invention, the base end of the collar base and the lower end of the front collar are sewn only at the left and right collar tip portions, which is consistent with the original shape of the stuffed collar that forms a ring around the neck of the wearer. As a result, it is easy to return to the original standing state.
[0010]
Further, in the stuffed collar structure according to the present invention, the left and right collar tip portions are curved so as to reach the neckline, and the white piping material sewn on the top of the stuffed collar extends to the collar tip portion. By sewing on the neckline, the neck line when worn can be shown beautifully.
[0011]
The front collar can be easily obtained by stitching in the longitudinal direction using the same fabric as the body, and the collar base is breathable on both the inner side which is the lining and the front side which is the outer side. By stitching using a cloth, it becomes possible to improve air permeability around the neck and prevent stuffiness at the time of wearing. For example, a breathable fabric having different materials on the inner side and the front side may be used, such as using a brushed tricot fabric as the inner fabric (collar base lining) and using a mesh fabric as the front fabric (collar surface).
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a front view of an example in which the stuffed collar structure according to the present invention is applied to boys' school clothes, FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of a part of the collar tip portion of the stuffed collar structure, and FIG. 3 is an end view taken along line AA in FIG. It is.
[0013]
The illustrated stuffed collar structure of the illustrated example is provided as a stuffed collar 1 having a pseudo color in which a white piping material 2 is sewn over the entire circumference of the top 11, and is provided at the upper part of the left and right front bodies M. Sewn against the neckline M1.
[0014]
As shown in FIG. 3, the collar base 3 is formed by combining a collar base surface 31 and a collar base lining 32, but does not include a hard collar core as found in a conventional stuffed collar. The base end 311 of the collar base 3 is stitched together with the front body M and the front body lining m at a neckline M1 by a sewing line 34. On the other hand, the white piping material 2 is stitched to the collar top 312 of the collar 3 by a sewing line 33. Since the collar base material 31 is hidden from view by the front collar 4 which will be described later, a mesh fabric is used for the collar base material 31, while a brushed tricot fabric that is breathable and comfortable to touch is used for the collar base material 32. By this, air permeability is ensured as the whole collar stand 3 completed.
[0015]
A front collar 4 is sewn to the collar top 312 together with the white piping material 2. As shown in FIG. 3, in the stuffing collar 1 of this example, the front collar 4 sewn at the upper end on the white piping material 2 is suspended in half in the longitudinal direction, that is, the width covering the collar base 3. A front collar 41 and a front collar turn 42 folded back toward the upper end side are stitched together by a sewing line 43.
[0016]
The collar stand 3 and the front collar 4 formed in this way have a double collar shape when viewed from the cross-sectional direction shown in FIG. 3, and the lower end of the front collar 4 is formed as a free end. The base end of the collar stand 3 and the lower end of the front collar 4 are sewn only at the left and right collar ends. That is, in the right neck portion shown in FIG. 2, the neck portion 13 has a shape that reaches the neck M1 while drawing a curve, and the base end of the collar base 3 and the front collar 4 are formed only at the stitching portion X. Sewn. If the curved shape of the neck portion 13 is a shape that seems to stand up straight at the wearer's neck, the white piping material 2 extending from the back collar to the neck portion M1 will draw a beautiful line. Further, it is sufficient that the length of the stitched portion X is about 1.5 cm, but it is optional to set it to a length longer than that.
[0017]
【The invention's effect】
According to the stuffed collar structure according to the present invention, the left and right front collars having the lower end edge as a free end are sewn to the base of the collar base only at the collar tip portion, so that the shape retention of the collar tip portion is excellent. . Therefore, even when worn, the collars can be aligned beautifully without loosely opening, so that a beautiful dress can be obtained without using a hook-and-hook fitting. In particular, when the white piping material is extended to the neck while the line at the top of the collar corresponding to the crease is smoothly formed to reach the neckline while drawing a curve at the collar tip, the white piping material is accented It is beautiful.
[0018]
In addition, the collar part that does not include the collar core as in the past is flexibly deformed following the movement of the wearer's neck, while the front collar is stitched in half in the longitudinal direction using the same fabric as the body Since it always slides up and down while maintaining a flat surface, the impression of a firm stuffed collar is not impaired, and the appearance is no different from conventional stuffed collar school uniforms.
[0019]
The neckline, which does not include the collar core and is made only of breathable fabric, is coupled with the fact that the space between the lower edge of the front collar is open, It prevents and provides a comfortable fit.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a front view of an example in which a stuffed collar structure according to the present invention is applied to a boy's school uniform.
FIG. 2 is a partially broken enlarged view of a collar tip portion in the stuffed collar structure of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is an end view taken along line AA in FIG. 2;
[Explanation of symbols]
1 Collapsible collar 2 White piping material 3 Collar 4 Front collar 311 Collar base 312 Collar top M Front body M 1 Neckline

Claims (4)

頂部の全周に白色パイピング材を縫着した擬似カラーを有する詰め襟であって、硬質襟芯を内包することなく基端を襟ぐりに縫着された襟台と、該襟台頂部に縫着された白色パイピング材に上端を縫着され前記襟台を覆う幅で垂下された表襟とが二重襟状をなしており、表襟における左右の襟先部分が下端から上端に向かって立ち上がった形状とされるとともに、前記襟台の基端と前記表襟の下端とが左右の襟先部分のみにおいて縫着されてなる詰め襟A stuffed collar with a pseudo-color that is sewn with white piping material all around the top, a collar stand that is sewn to the neckline without including a hard collar core, and is sewn to the top of the collar stand The top collar sewn on the white piping material and hung down with a width that covers the collar stand has a double collar shape, and the left and right collar ends of the front collar rise from the bottom to the top together it is shaped, and the lower end of the table collar and the collar base of the proximal end is formed by sewing the only Erisaki portions of the left and right Tsumeeri. 左右の襟先部分が、襟ぐりから曲線を描きながら上端に至る形状をなし、詰め襟の頂部に縫着された白色パイピング材が前記襟先部分にまで延長して縫着されていることを特徴とする請求項1記載の詰め襟The left and right neck parts are shaped to reach the upper end while drawing a curve from the neckline, and white piping material sewn on the top of the stuffed collar extends to the neck part and is sewn. The filling collar according to claim 1. 表襟が、身頃と同じ生地を用いて長手方向二つ折りに形成され、該表襟における上端側に向けて折り返された表襟折返しが、該表襟における前記白色パイピング材から垂下された表襟表地に縫合されてなる請求項1又は2いずれかに記載の詰め襟The front collar is formed by folding the front collar in the longitudinal direction using the same fabric as the body, and the front collar folded back toward the upper end side of the front collar is suspended from the white piping material in the front collar The stuffed collar according to claim 1 or 2, which is stitched to the outer material . 襟台が、内側と表側の両方に通気性生地を用いて縫合形成されてなる請求項1〜3いずれかに記載の詰め襟Collar stand is Tsumeeri according to any one of claims 1 to 3 formed by stitching formed by using a breathable fabric on both the inside and front.
JP2003174005A 2003-06-18 2003-06-18 Stuffed collar Expired - Fee Related JP4340099B2 (en)

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