JP3932459B2 - Cloth for clothing - Google Patents

Cloth for clothing Download PDF

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JP3932459B2
JP3932459B2 JP2005333706A JP2005333706A JP3932459B2 JP 3932459 B2 JP3932459 B2 JP 3932459B2 JP 2005333706 A JP2005333706 A JP 2005333706A JP 2005333706 A JP2005333706 A JP 2005333706A JP 3932459 B2 JP3932459 B2 JP 3932459B2
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stitching
overlock
fabric
edge
thread
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JP2007135872A (en
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利彦 小林
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利彦 小林
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Description

本発明は、衣料品用等の布地に関する。       The present invention relates to a fabric for clothing.

一般に、衣料品用等に多く使用される布地は織物と編物であり、繊維等から製造した糸を原料にして織製や編製を行って製造されている。それぞれの性質として、織物はたて糸とよこ糸を一定の規則に従って上下に交わらせて作ったものであるため、布目方向に対しては伸縮性がほとんどなく、それ以外の方向に対しては若干の伸縮性がある。それに対して編物は1本または1本以上の糸がループを作り、そのループに引っかけて次の新しいループを作ることを継続し、順次ループを平面状に連続して形成したものであるため、360°どの方向に対しても伸縮性がある。また、上記のような衣料品用等に使用される布地はそのままの状態では平面であり、縫合等の加工工程を行うことによって立体的な凹凸を形成し、衣料品等の布製品が製造されている。これらのことについては、非特許文献1に開示されている。       In general, fabrics frequently used for clothing and the like are woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, and are manufactured by weaving or knitting using yarns manufactured from fibers or the like as raw materials. Each property is made of warp and weft yarns that are crossed up and down according to certain rules, so there is almost no elasticity in the direction of the fabric, and a little stretch in the other directions. There is sex. On the other hand, a knitted fabric is one or one or more yarns that make a loop, and continue to make the next new loop by hooking on that loop. It has elasticity in any direction of 360 °. In addition, the cloth used for clothing as described above is a flat surface as it is, and a three-dimensional unevenness is formed by performing a processing process such as stitching, and a cloth product such as clothing is manufactured. ing. These are disclosed in Non-Patent Document 1.

さらに、上記のような布地にはオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)が布端(裁ち目)の始末に、解れ防止として施されることがある。このオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)は、1本針3本糸のオーバーロックミシンの場合、針糸1、上ルーパー糸2、下ルーパー糸3でオーバーロック縫い目構造を形成する(図1参照)。オーバーロックミシンは、本縫いミシン等と違って返し縫いができず、またその必要がないため、空縫い動作をさせて糸足を残して糸を切る。つまり、オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施す対象がなくても、空縫い動作をさせ続ければオーバーロック縫い目構造を形成し続けるのである。これらのことについては特許文献1に開示されている。 Further, overlock stitching (edge stitching) may be applied to the fabric as described above at the end of the fabric end (stitch) to prevent unraveling. This overlock stitching (edge stitching) forms an overlock stitch structure with the needle thread 1, the upper looper thread 2, and the lower looper thread 3 in the case of an overlock sewing machine with one needle and three threads (see FIG. 1). . Unlike the lockstitch sewing machine, the overlock sewing machine cannot perform reverse stitching and it is not necessary. Therefore, the overlock sewing machine performs the idle stitching operation and cuts the thread leaving the thread foot. That is, even if there is no object to be subjected to overlock stitching (edge stitching), the overlock stitch structure is continuously formed if the idle stitching operation is continued. These are disclosed in Patent Document 1.

編物等の伸縮性のある布地の布端にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を解れ防止として施すと、布端が伸ばされて波打ったり縮みすぎたりすることがある。その場合は、オーバーロックミシンの差動レバーを上下に動かして縫いテストをし、一番よい位置に差動レバーを調節する。差動レバーを下げると送り量が大きくなって布端が縮み方向になり、レバーを上げると送り量が小さくなって伸ばし方向になる。つまり、伸縮性のない布地の布端に差動送りの調節をしてオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施せば、布端を縮ませたり、伸ばして波打たせたりすることができるのである。これらのことについては非特許文献2に開示されている。
特開平5−156539公報 弓削 治編著、「被服材料・整理学」朝倉書店、 1980年4月20日発行、P38〜49 熊崎 高道編、「アパレルソーイング用語集」チャネラー、 2002年9月9日発行、P138〜139
If overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied to the fabric edge of a stretchable fabric such as a knitted fabric to prevent unraveling, the fabric edge may be stretched and wavy or shrunk too much. In that case, move the differential lever of the overlock sewing machine up and down to perform a sewing test, and adjust the differential lever to the best position. When the differential lever is lowered, the feed amount is increased and the cloth end is in the contracting direction, and when the lever is raised, the feed amount is decreased and the extending direction is reached. In other words, by adjusting the differential feed to the fabric edge of the non-stretchable fabric and applying overlock stitching (edge stitching), the fabric edge can be shrunk or stretched and wavy. . These are disclosed in Non-Patent Document 2.
JP-A-5-156539 Edited by Osamu Yumi, “Clothing Materials and Arrangement”, Asakura Shoten, April 20, 1980, P38-49 Kumasaki Takamichi, “Apparel Sewing Glossary” Channeler, September 9, 2002, P138-139

従来のような衣料品用等の布地に立体的な凹凸を形成するためには、縫合等の加工工程を行わなければならなかった。また、従来のような衣料品用等の布地で、一方方向にのみ伸縮性がなくそれ以外の方向に伸縮性があるものはなかった。本発明は、これらの課題を解消するためになされたものである。 In order to form a three-dimensional unevenness on a conventional cloth for clothing, a process such as stitching has to be performed. Further, there is no conventional cloth for clothing or the like that is not stretchable only in one direction and stretchable in other directions. The present invention has been made to solve these problems.

この課題を解決するための請求項1の発明は、1本針3本糸のオーバーロックミシンに空縫い動作をさせてできた針糸1と上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3から形成されたオーバーロック縫い目構造(図1参照)にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施してそれぞれのオーバーロック縫い目構造を絡ませる(図2参照)。この状態にさらにオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続けて布地を製造する。 The invention of claim 1 for solving this problem is formed of a needle thread 1, an upper looper thread 2 and a lower looper thread 3 which are obtained by causing a single stitch three thread overlock sewing machine to perform a blank stitching operation. Overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied to the overlock stitch structure (see FIG. 1), and each overlock stitch structure is entangled (see FIG. 2). In this state, overlock stitching (edge stitching) is continued to produce a fabric.

上ルーパー糸2は針糸1と下ルーパー糸3に引っかけてループを形成し、下ルーパー糸3は針糸1と上ルーパー糸2に引っかけてループを形成しているのに対し、針糸1は上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3と交わるように上下に行き来しておりループは形成していない。つまり、上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3は編物と同様の構造を形成し、針糸1は織物のたて糸あるいはよこ糸と同様の構造を形成しているのである。そのため、上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3は編物と同様の性質を有するので360°どの方向に対しても伸縮性があり、針糸1は織物のたて糸あるいはよこ糸と同様の性質を有するので伸縮性がほとんどない。よってオーバーロック縫い目構造(図1参照)にはオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施した一方方向にのみ伸縮性がほとんどなく、その他の方向には伸縮性がある。この構造にさらにオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続けて製造した布地であるため、オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施した一方方向にのみ伸縮性がほとんどなく、その他の方向には伸縮性がある。 The upper looper thread 2 is hooked on the needle thread 1 and the lower looper thread 3 to form a loop, and the lower looper thread 3 is hooked on the needle thread 1 and the upper looper thread 2 to form a loop, whereas the needle thread 1 Is moving up and down so as to cross the upper looper yarn 2 and the lower looper yarn 3, and no loop is formed. That is, the upper looper yarn 2 and the lower looper yarn 3 form a structure similar to a knitted fabric, and the needle yarn 1 forms a structure similar to a warp or weft yarn of a fabric. Therefore, the upper looper yarn 2 and the lower looper yarn 3 have the same properties as the knitted fabric, and therefore have elasticity in any direction of 360 °, and the needle yarn 1 has the same properties as the warp yarn or weft yarn of the fabric. There is almost no sex. Therefore, the overlock seam structure (see FIG. 1) has almost no stretchability only in one direction where overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied, and has stretchability in the other directions. Because this fabric is manufactured by continuing overlock stitching (edge stitching) to this structure, there is almost no elasticity only in one direction where overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied, and stretch in the other direction. There is sex.

また、請求項2の発明は請求項1の布地において、オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施すときにオーバーロックミシンの差動送りの調節をすることによって立体的な凹凸を形成する。凹型の布地を形成する場合は、オーバーロックミシンの差動レバーを下げて送り量が大きくなった状態でオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施して布端を縮ませる。縮んだ布端にさらにオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続けると、さらに布端を縮ませることができる。これを繰り返し続けることによって徐々に凹型の布地が形成される。       According to a second aspect of the present invention, the three-dimensional unevenness is formed in the fabric of the first aspect by adjusting the differential feed of the overlock sewing machine when performing overlock sewing (edge stitching). When forming a concave fabric, lower the differential lever of the overlock sewing machine and perform overlock stitching (edge stitching) with the feed amount increased to shrink the fabric edge. If the overlock stitching (edge stitching) is further applied to the contracted fabric end, the fabric end can be further contracted. By repeating this process, a concave fabric is gradually formed.

凸型の布地を形成する場合は、オーバーロックミシンの差動レバーを上げて送り量が小さくなった状態でオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施して布端を伸ばす。伸びた布端にさらにオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続けると、さらに布端を伸ばすことができる。これを繰り返し続けることによって徐々に凸型の布地が形成される。凹型の布地を形成するときの操作と凸型の布地を形成するときの操作を組み合わせることによって、布地に立体的な凹凸を形成する。       When forming a convex fabric, raise the differential lever of the overlock sewing machine and perform overlock stitching (edge stitching) with the feed amount reduced to extend the fabric end. If the overlock stitching (edge stitching) is further applied to the stretched fabric end, the fabric end can be further stretched. By repeating this process, a convex fabric is gradually formed. By combining the operation for forming the concave fabric and the operation for forming the convex fabric, three-dimensional unevenness is formed on the fabric.

オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施した方向にのみ伸縮性がないので、衣料品として使用する場合はオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施した方向がたて方向になるようにすれば、着用時には形状が安定している上に着用者が動きやすい衣料品を製造することができる。 Since there is no elasticity only in the direction where overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied, when used as clothing, if the direction where overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied becomes the vertical direction, It is possible to produce clothing that is stable in shape and easy for the wearer to move when worn.

立体的な凹凸のある布地なので、衣料品などの立体的な布製品を製造する場合、縫合等の加工工程を行う必要がない。 Since the fabric has three-dimensional unevenness, it is not necessary to perform a processing step such as stitching when manufacturing a three-dimensional fabric product such as clothing.

1本針3本糸のオーバーロックミシンに空縫い動作をさせてできた針糸1と上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3から形成されたオーバーロック縫い目構造(図1参照)にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施してそれぞれのオーバーロック縫い目構造を絡ませる(図2参照)。この状態にさらにオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続け、差動送りの調節をして立体的な凹凸のある布地構造を形成する。 Overlock stitching (see Fig. 1) overlock stitch structure (see Fig. 1) formed from needle thread 1, upper looper thread 2 and lower looper thread 3 made by performing an empty stitching operation on an overlock sewing machine with one needle and three threads Edge over stitches) are entangled with each overlock stitch structure (see FIG. 2). Further overlock stitching (edge stitching) is continued in this state, and a differential feed is adjusted to form a fabric structure with three-dimensional unevenness.

オーバーロックミシンに空縫い動作をさせて形成したオーバーロック縫い目構造(図1参照)にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施すときに、針糸1と上ルーパー糸2と下ルーパー糸3を切らずに、空縫い動作をさせ始めた糸端からオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施し続ければ、筒型の布地構造を形成することができる。また、差動送りの調節をしてオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施せば立体的な凹凸のある筒型の布地構造を形成することができる。       When overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied to an overlock stitch structure (see Fig. 1) formed by performing an empty stitch operation on the overlock sewing machine, the needle thread 1, upper looper thread 2 and lower looper thread 3 are cut. If the overlock stitching (edge stitching) is continuously performed from the end of the thread that has started the idle stitching operation, a tubular fabric structure can be formed. In addition, a cylindrical fabric structure with three-dimensional unevenness can be formed by adjusting the differential feed and performing overlock stitching (edge stitching).

本発明に係る布地は、オーバーロックミシンによって製造されるものである
ため、産業上の利用可能性を有する。
Since the fabric according to the present invention is manufactured by an overlock sewing machine, it has industrial applicability.

本発明に係る布地のもととなる、1本針3本糸のオーバーロックミシンに空縫い動作をさせてできたオーバーロック縫い目構造の図である。It is a figure of the overlock seam structure which made the overlock sewing machine of the 1 needle 3 thread used as the origin of the cloth concerning the present invention carry out empty stitch operation. 図1のオーバーロック縫い目構造にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施してそれぞれのオーバーロック縫い目構造が絡まった状態の図である。FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a state in which overlock stitching (edge stitching) is applied to the overlock stitch structure of FIG. 1 and each overlock stitch structure is entangled.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 針糸
2 上ルーパー糸
3 下ルーパー糸
1 Needle thread 2 Upper looper thread 3 Lower looper thread

Claims (2)

オーバーロックミシンに空縫い動作をさせて形成したオーバーロック縫い目構造にオーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施して製造した布地であり、オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施した一方方向にのみ伸縮性がほとんどなく、その他の方向には伸縮性がある構造を特徴とする布地。 This fabric is manufactured by applying overlock stitching (edge stitching) to an overlock stitch structure formed by performing an overlock sewing operation on the overlock sewing machine, and stretches only in one direction with overlock stitching (edge stitching). A fabric characterized by a structure with little elasticity and stretch in the other direction.
請求項1の布地において、オーバーロック縫い(縁かがり縫い)を施すときにオーバーロックミシンの差動送りの調節をすることによって立体的な凹凸が形成されることを特徴とする布地。

The fabric according to claim 1, wherein three-dimensional unevenness is formed by adjusting the differential feed of the overlock sewing machine when performing overlock stitching (edge stitching).
JP2005333706A 2005-11-18 2005-11-18 Cloth for clothing Active JP3932459B2 (en)

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