JP3929918B2 - Pearl luster liquid - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to pearlescent liquid to maintain beautiful pearl luster for a long time even at low pH.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Hair cosmetics represented by shampoos and conditioners have a basic performance of keeping the hair and scalp clean and imparting smoothness and cohesion to the hair. Therefore, it is an important factor from a product perspective. As one of them, it has a pearly luster, creating a sense of quality and effect. As the pearling agent, generally, plate-like or needle-like microcrystalline particles of various compounds are used. The most typical one is ethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and a method of directly cooling and crystallizing in a product or a method of preparing a concentrated dispersion in advance and blending it into the product are used.
[0003]
Commercially available ethylene glycol fatty acid esters are synthesized from fatty acid mixtures and ethylene glycol. Among them, the diester type of fatty acid mainly composed of stearic acid is the most common and widely used as ethylene glycol distearate (abbreviation: EGDS). As EGDS used as a cosmetic raw material, a raw material fatty acid composition is generally composed of stearic acid occupying about 50% by weight and fatty acid having 16 or less carbon atoms and having a melting point of about 60 ° C. This fatty acid composition has the advantage of being easy to handle due to its relatively low melting point and relatively easy to control crystallinity, but it is difficult to maintain the pearl appearance at high temperatures, especially when the pH is low. It is a problem that the deterioration of is remarkable. This is presumably because the dissolution of the pearlizing agent particles (EGDS) and the solubilization in the aqueous surfactant solution are promoted, and the ester moiety undergoes hydrolysis.
[0004]
Further, a pearly luster concentrate excellent in stability and fluidity containing ethylene glycol difatty acid ester, an emulsifier and a low molecular weight polyhydric alcohol is known (see Patent Document 1), but EGDS has a stearic acid purity. The higher the value, the lower the pearly luster, and it has not been possible to achieve both a low pH stability and a beautiful appearance when blended into a product. In the case of agents for treating proteins such as hair and scalp, the intended effect often depends on pH, and maintaining a beautiful pearl appearance over a wide pH range is important as a product.
[0005]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-T-6-504781 Publication [0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a pearly luster liquid that can maintain a beautiful pearl appearance over a long period of time at a low pH.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have found that the pearl appearance can be maintained for a long time even at low pH by increasing the ratio of stearic acid contained in the raw fatty acid of EGDS. On the other hand, however, when the purity of stearic acid is increased too much, it becomes difficult to control the crystallinity, resulting in a problem that a sufficient pearl appearance cannot be obtained. Therefore, the present inventors examined EGDS and its concentrated dispersion that can achieve both a beautiful pearl appearance and its maintenance at a low pH, and as a result, EGDS having a certain range of stearic acid purity was used as a surfactant component. It has been found that the above object can be achieved by using an amphoteric surfactant or a high HLB nonionic surfactant in combination with a low HLB nonionic surfactant.
[0008]
That is, the present invention comprises the following components (A) and (B)
(A) Ethylene glycol difatty acid ester represented by the general formula (1): 5 to 30% by weight
[0009]
[Chemical 2]
[0010]
[Wherein, R ¹ represents a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group. However, the distribution is such that the straight-chain alkyl group having 17 carbon atoms is 65 wt% or more and less than 90 wt%. ]
(B) Surfactant component containing the following components (b ₁ ) and (b ₂ ) in a ratio of (b ₁ ) / (b ₂ ) = 1/1 to 1/3: 10 to 35% by weight
(B ₁ ) Fatty acid amidopropyl betaine (b ₂ ) A nacreous liquid containing a nonionic surfactant of less than HLB 13 in an aqueous medium.
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The ethylene glycol difatty acid ester of component (A) used in the present invention is synthesized from ethylene glycol and a fatty acid having a straight chain alkyl group having 17 carbon atoms of 65% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, in the general formula (1) R ¹ has the above distribution, but the alkyl group is preferably 65 to 80% by weight, particularly 65 to 75% by weight.
[0013]
Component (A) is contained in the pearly luster liquid of the present invention in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, particularly 10 to 25% by weight, from the viewpoint of beautiful pearly luster and good stability. Is preferred.
[0014]
Surfactant of component (B) The amphoteric surfactant used as component (b ₁ ) includes: betaine acetate-based, amidoacetic acid betaine-based, sulfobetaine-based, amide sulfobetaine-based, phosphobetaine-based, alkylamine oxide And amidoamine oxide. Of these, fatty acid amidopropyl betaines such as coconut oil fatty acid amidopropyl betaine and lauric acid amidopropyl betaine are preferred.
[0015]
The nonionic surfactant used as (b ₁ ) of the component (B) surfactant component is HLB13 or more, preferably HLB14 or more, particularly preferably 15 or more. The nonionic surfactants used as (b ₂₎ of the surfactant of component (B) is of the below HLB 13, HLB12 or less, particularly preferably 11 or less. Here, “HLB” in the present invention is a value representing the hydrophilic / lipophilic balance of the surfactant, and uses the Griffin formula.
[0016]
Specific examples of the nonionic surfactant used as (b ₁ ) or (b ₂ ) include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan esters, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acids. Examples thereof include esters, polyoxyalkylene sorbite fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene glycerin fatty acid esters, monoglycerides, sorbitan fatty acid esters, fatty acid monoethanolamides, fatty acid diethanolamides, and alkylpolyglycosides. Of these, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers and alkyl polyglycosides are preferred.
[0017]
(B ₁ ) and (b ₂ ) may be used in combination of two or more. These are used at a ratio of (b ₁ ) / (b ₂ ) = 1/1 to 1/3 from the viewpoint of the beauty of the pearl appearance, but (b ₁ ) / (b ₂ ) = 1 / 1.5. It is preferably used in a ratio of ˜1 / 2.5, in particular 1 / 1.7-1.2.3. The content of the component (B) in the pearly luster liquid of the present invention is 10 to 35% by weight in total of (b ₁ ) and (b ₂ ), but is 15 to 30% by weight, particularly 20 to 20%. 25 weights is preferred.
[0018]
Further, the pearly luster liquid of the present invention preferably contains an anionic surfactant in order to improve the high temperature stability. As the anionic surfactant, those of sulfuric acid type, sulfonic acid type, and carboxylic acid type are preferable, for example, alkyl sulfate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyalkylene alkenyl ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid alkylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfate. Examples thereof include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates, particularly those represented by the following general formula (2) or (3).
[0019]
R ² O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n SO ₃ M (2)
R ³ OSO ₃ M (3)
[0020]
[Wherein R ² represents an alkyl group or alkenyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, R ³ represents an alkyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, M represents an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkanolamine or A basic amino acid is shown, n shows the number of 1-5 on a weight average. ]
[0021]
Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination, and the content thereof is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, and particularly 1 to 5% by weight in the pearly luster liquid of the present invention. % Is preferred.
[0022]
The pearly luster liquid of the present invention preferably contains no low molecular weight polyhydric alcohol in order to prevent appearance deterioration during high temperature storage. Such low molecular weight polyhydric alcohols include ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, dolcitol, etc. Is mentioned.
[0023]
The pearly luster liquid of the present invention, for example, an aqueous solution containing the components (A) and (B) is stirred and melted and dispersed uniformly at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the component (A), and then stirred at a constant speed. It can be prepared by cooling with, and precipitating component (A).
[0024]
The pearly luster liquid of the present invention can maintain a beautiful pearl appearance over a long period of time even under low pH conditions, and is useful as a component for cosmetics, particularly acidic hair cosmetics.
[0025]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by adding the above pearly luster liquid to a normal cosmetic composition, and examples of the form include shampoo, hair rinse, hair conditioner and the like.
[0026]
When the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is diluted 20 times by weight with purified water, the pH at 25 ° C. is 3 to 5, preferably 3.5 to 4.5. For adjusting the pH, an organic acid or an inorganic acid is used. Examples of the organic acid include hydroxy acid, monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid, tricarboxylic acid, polycarboxylic acid, alkyl sulfuric acid, and alkyl phosphoric acid. Hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, oxybutyric acid, glyceric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, monocarboxylic acids include acetic acid, etc., and dicarboxylic acids include malonic acid, succinic acid, glutamic acid, adipic acid, maleic acid. Acid, fumaric acid, phthalic acid and the like, and tricarboxylic acid include citric acid and the like. Examples of inorganic acids include hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and the like. Of these, organic acids are preferable, and α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, particularly lactic acid and malic acid are excellent in terms of gloss, flexibility and cohesiveness of hair. The content of the organic acid or inorganic acid is preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0027]
In the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, the same surfactant as described above can be appropriately selected and contained. The content of the surfactant is preferably 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30% by weight, and particularly preferably 10 to 25% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention by adding the components contained in the pearl luster liquid. .
[0028]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention can contain silicones for improving the conditioning effect. Examples of silicones include dimethylpolysiloxane (viscosity 5 to 20 million mm ² / s), amino-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, methylphenylpolysiloxane, fatty acid-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, alkoxy-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, Examples thereof include fluorine-modified silicone, cyclic silicone, and alkyl-modified silicone, and dimethylpolysiloxane is particularly preferable. The silicone content is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0029]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention can contain other conditioning components such as cationic polymers (cationized cellulose, cationized guar gum, etc.). These contents are preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0030]
In addition, the hair cosmetic of the present invention may contain other components used in normal hair cosmetics depending on the purpose. Such components include humectants such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and panthenol; colorants such as dyes and pigments; viscosity modifiers such as methylcellulose, polyethylene glycol and ethanol; other plant extracts, preservatives, fungicides, Chelating agents, vitamin agents, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants and the like can be mentioned.
[0031]
【Example】
Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9 Pearlescent liquid
Ethylene glycol distearate having 30% by weight amidepropylbetaine laurate aqueous solution 23.3% by weight, polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl ether 15% by weight and stearic acid purity (ratio of stearic acid in fatty acid composition) shown in Table 1 (EGDS) 20% by weight was added to a balance amount of purified water and stirred at 80 ° C. After confirming that EGDS was completely melted and uniformly dispersed, it was cooled by stirring at a rate of 0.5 ° C./min. The mixture was further stirred for 30 minutes while maintaining the temperature at which heat generation and viscosity increase were confirmed. Then, it cooled to 30 degreeC, stirring, and also polyoxyethylene sodium lauryl sulfate in Example 8, and the polypropylene glycol in Example 9 were mixed, and the various pearl luster liquid shown in Table 2 and 3 was obtained.
[0032]
About the obtained pearl luster liquid, pearl appearance (immediately after production, after storage at 40 ° C. for 1 month) and fluidity were evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are also shown in Tables 2-3.
[0033]
・ Evaluation criteria for pearl appearance ◎: Very beautiful pearl appearance.
○: Beautiful pearl appearance.
Δ: weak pearl appearance.
X: It is cloudy.
[0034]
・ Evaluation criteria for fluidity ◎: Flow when tilted.
○: Flows if lightly shaken.
Δ: Flows if shaken strongly.
X: Even if it shakes strongly, it does not flow.
[0035]
[Table 1]
[0036]
[Table 2]
[0037]
[Table 3]
[0038]
Test Example 1 Effect of pH on pearly luster Using the composition obtained in Example 6 or Comparative Example 7 as a pearly luster liquid, adjusting the amount of malic acid in the composition shown below, shampoo compositions with various pHs A product was prepared.
[0039]
[0040]
The pearl appearance immediately after production of this shampoo composition was evaluated in the same manner as described above. Further, the appearance of this shampoo composition when stored at 50 ° C. for one month was observed, and the change in the pearl appearance immediately after production was evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0041]
・ Change in pearl appearance (after 50 ℃ at 1 month)
A: Change is not felt.
○: Almost no change.
Δ: Slightly deteriorated
X: Obviously deteriorated.
[0042]
[Table 4]
[0043]
Reference Examples 1 to 7 Shampoos Shampoos having the compositions shown in Table 5 were prepared, and changes in pearl appearance immediately after production and pearl appearance after storage at 50 ° C. for 1 month were evaluated in the same manner as described above.
[0044]
[Table 5]
[0045]
【The invention's effect】
The pearly luster liquid of the present invention can maintain a beautiful pearl appearance over a long period of time at a low pH, and is particularly useful as a component for acidic hair cosmetics.

Claims (3)

Next components (A) and (B)
(A) Ethylene glycol difatty acid ester represented by general formula (1): 5 to 30% by weight
[Wherein, R ¹ represents a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group. However, the distribution is such that the straight-chain alkyl group having 17 carbon atoms is 65 wt% or more and less than 90 wt%. ]
(B) Surfactant component containing the following components (b ₁ ) and (b ₂ ) in a ratio of (b ₁ ) / (b ₂ ) = 1/1 to 1/3: 10 to 35% by weight
(B ₁ ) Fatty acid amidopropyl betaine (b ₂ ) A nacreous liquid containing a nonionic surfactant less than HLB 13 in an aqueous medium.   The pearly luster liquid according to claim 1, further comprising an anionic surfactant.   The pearly luster liquid according to claim 1 or 2, which does not contain a low molecular weight polyhydric alcohol.