JP3872168B2

JP3872168B2 - Polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn and method for producing the same

Info

Publication number: JP3872168B2
Application number: JP13819097A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 勉梅原; 雅樹西村
Original assignee: Unitika Ltd
Current assignee: Unitika Ltd
Priority date: 1997-05-28
Filing date: 1997-05-28
Publication date: 2007-01-24
Anticipated expiration: 2017-05-28
Also published as: JPH10325025A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、高捲縮であって、伸縮性に優れたポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸とその製造方法に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
通常、ポリアミド系伸縮性加工糸は、供給糸を先撚した後、仮撚加工したり、あるいは仮撚加工後に追撚して製造されていた。このように、従来の伸縮性加工糸は２工程で製造されていたため、コストが高いという欠点があった。
【０００３】
この欠点を解消するために，種々の方法が提案されている。例えば、特開昭57-17093号公報や特公昭61-27494号公報には、仮撚工程だけで製造する方法が提案されている。しかしながら、これらの方法で得られた加工糸を用いて布帛にしても、通常の仮撚加工糸使いより優れた伸縮性を付与することはできるが、加工糸の沸水処理後の弾性回復率は60％程度で伸縮性能が不十分なものであった。
【０００４】
また、これらの方法では供給糸の動摩擦係数が小さいため、仮撚ピンに供給糸を２回捲きして仮撚加工すると、仮撚加工中の解撚張力が高くなり、加工糸に毛羽が発生して糸切れや製織工程での停台原因になるだけでなく、仮撚機のローラや仮撚ピンの摩耗が激しく、操業が安定しなかった。一方、供給糸を仮撚ピンに１回捲きして仮撚加工すると、加撚領域で高度に付与された実撚が仮撚ピンをスリップして通過し、解撚領域まで伝播するので実撚が残存し、得られる加工糸の品位が低下するという問題があった。
【０００５】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、上記の問題を解決し，優れた伸縮性を有し、かつ、品位も良好なポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸と、この加工糸を安定した操業性で製造することができる方法を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、上記の課題を解決するために鋭意検討した結果、本発明に到達した。
すなわち、本発明は、次の構成を有するものである。
(イ) ポリアミド系マルチフィラメントで構成された加工糸であって、沸水処理後の弾性回復率が70％以上であり、かつ、沸水処理後の加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの捲縮数Ｍ（山／ｍ）が次式(1) を満足することを特徴とするポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸。
14,200／ｄ₁ ^1/2＜Ｍ (1)
ただし、ｄ₁は高伸縮性加工糸の繊度（デニール）である。
(ロ) 伸度が45〜75％、複屈折率が35×10^-3〜50×10^-3、動摩擦係数が 0.3以上のポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸を仮撚加工するに際し、仮撚ピンへの糸条の捲き数を１回とし、かつ、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) 、ヒータ温度θ（℃）及び加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）が次式(2) 、(3) 、(4) を満足するようにして仮撚加工することを特徴とするポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸の製造方法。
５×10⁴×（ρＤr ／πｄ₂)^1/2＜Ｔ＜７×10⁴×（ρＤr ／πｄ₂)^1/2 (2)
1.6×10²ρ＜θ＜ 1.9×10²ρ (3)
Ｋ＜14×10⁴×Ｄr ／Ｔｄ₂ ^1/2 (4)
ただし、ρは高配向未延伸糸の密度(g/cm³) 、Ｄr は仮撚加工時の延伸倍率、ｄ₂は高配向未延伸糸の繊度（デニール）である。
【０００７】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
【０００８】
まず、第一発明のポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸について説明する。
本発明の高伸縮性加工糸は、ポリアミド系マルチフィラメントで構成されており、沸水処理後の弾性回復率が70％以上で、かつ、沸水処理後の捲縮数Ｍ（山／ｍ）が前記式(1) を満足するものである。
【０００９】
図１は、本発明の高伸縮性加工糸の一実施態様例を示す沸水処理後の側面模式図であり、図２は、沸水処理後の高伸縮性加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの説明図である。図２において、単フィラメントには細かい多数の捲縮が存在しており、捲縮の山部ａと谷部ｂの高低差Ｈは 0.2mm〜 0.3mm程度となっている。
【００１０】
また、沸水処理後の高伸縮性加工糸には、フィラメント間に多数の接触点と絡みが存在しているため、荷重を掛け伸長した状態でも接触点と絡みが維持され、荷重を外したとき捲縮の戻ろうとする力が十分に作用し、弾性回復率が70％以上という、優れた糸長回復性を有する従来にない高伸縮性加工糸である。
【００１１】
一方、図４は、従来の仮撚加工で得られる伸縮性加工糸の沸水処理後の側面模式図であり、図５は、沸水処理後の従来の伸縮性加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの説明図である。図５において、山部ａと谷部ｂの高低差Ｈが 0.1mm〜 0.2mmの捲縮が存在しているが、図２で示す本発明のものに比べて、フィラメントの捲縮が大きく、数が少ない。
また、従来の伸縮性加工糸には、沸水処理後においてもフィラメント間に存在する接触点と絡みが少ないため、荷重を掛け伸長させると接触点と絡みが解消され、フィラメント間の位置関係が変化する。このため、荷重を外しても、他のフィラメントが障害となって、捲縮の戻ろうとする力が十分に作用せず、弾性回復率で約60％しか糸長を回復することができない。
【００１２】
次に、第二発明のポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸の製造方法について説明する。
【００１３】
第一発明の高伸縮性加工糸は、伸度が45〜75％、複屈折率が35×10^-3〜50×10^-3、動摩擦係数が 0.3以上のポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸を仮撚加工するに際し、仮撚ピンへの糸条の捲き数を１回とし、かつ、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) 、ヒータ温度θ（℃）及び加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）が前記式(2) 、(3) 、(4) を満足するようにして仮撚加工することによって得ることができる。
【００１４】
従来の伸縮性加工糸は、紡糸後に捲き取られた後で解舒性が低下しないように動摩擦係数が 0.3未満になる油剤を付着させたポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸を供給糸とし、加撚領域の撚が仮撚ピンをスリップして通過しないように、この高配向未延伸糸を仮撚ピンに２回捲き付けて仮撚加工して製造されていた。しかしながら、この製造方法では、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) を前記(2) 式の下限である５×10⁴×（ρＤ_r／πｄ₂)^1/2を超えた撚数に設定できないため、十分な伸縮性を有する加工糸を得ることができないだけでなく、解撚張力が高くなるため毛羽の発生を誘発したり、仮撚機のローラや仮撚ピンの摩耗が発生する。
また、解撚張力を小さくする目的で、仮撚ピンに１回捲き付けて仮撚加工することにより伸縮性加工糸を製造する場合、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) を前記(2) 式を満足する範囲に設定すると、加撚領域の撚が仮撚ピンをスリップして通過し、糸条に実撚が残存して得られる加工糸の品位が悪くなる。
【００１５】
このため、本発明者らは、ポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸の物性と仮撚条件に着目し、鋭意研究した結果、前記(2) 式を満足する範囲の仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) で加工操業性よく伸縮性加工糸を製造するには、高配向未延伸糸の伸度、複屈折率、動摩擦係数と仮撚条件のピン捲き数、仮撚数、ヒータ温度、延伸倍率、加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）に密接な関係があることを見出した。
【００１６】
すなわち、本発明において供給糸となるポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸は、伸度が45〜75％、複屈折率が35×10^-3〜50×10^-3、動摩擦係数が 0.3以上の条件を同時に満足しなければならない。伸度や複屈折率が上記範囲の下限未満又は上限を超える場合、捲縮斑が発生して均一な伸縮性が得られないか、あるいは加工安定性の低下、染色堅牢性の低下が発生するので好ましくない。また、動摩擦係数が 0.3未満の場合、加撚領域の撚が仮撚ピンをスリップして通過して、加工糸の品位が悪くなるので好ましくない。
【００１７】
ビスフエノールＡＥＯ／ＰＯジラウレート（平滑剤） 22％
トリメチロールプロパンＥＯ／ＰＯMW4500 （平滑剤） 36％
ポリフエノール化合物 (分散剤) 16％
ＰＯＥ（２５）硬化ヒマシ油（分散剤） 11％
Ｃ_12-15ホスヘートＫ（帯電防止剤） 10％
ＰＯＥ（５）Ｃ_12-15ホスヘートＫ（帯電防止剤） 5％
なお、動摩擦係数が 0.3以上のポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸は、高配向未延伸糸に、例えば上記組成の油剤を 0.3〜 0.5重量％付与して得ることができる。
【００１８】
次に，仮撚条件のうち、仮撚ピンへの糸条の捲き数は１回、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m) は前記(2) 式、ヒータ温度θ (℃) は前記(3) 式、加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）は前記(4) 式を同時に満足しなければならない。
【００１９】
仮撚ピンへの糸条の捲き数が２回以上の場合には、仮撚数Ｔ(t/m)を前記(2) 式の下限以上に設定することができないため、十分な伸縮性を有する加工糸が得られないだけでなく、解撚張力が高くなるため毛羽の発生を誘発したり、仮撚機のローラや仮撚ピンの摩耗が発生するので好ましくない。また、仮撚数Ｔが上記範囲の下限未満になると、加工糸に付与される伸縮性が通常の仮撚加工糸とほぼ同程度となり、一方、上記範囲の上限を超えると、加工糸に毛羽が発生して品位が悪くなり、糸切れも発生するので好ましくない。
【００２０】
次に、ヒータ温度θ (℃) が上記範囲の下限未満になると、仮撚加工中の熱セット性が低下して加工糸に十分な伸縮性を付与できず、上記範囲の上限を超えると得られる加工糸が弱糸となり、糸切れを発生するので好ましくない。また、加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）が上記範囲を超えると、解撚張力が高くなるため毛羽の発生を誘発したり、仮撚機のローラや仮撚ピンの摩耗が発生するので好ましくない。
【００２１】
ポリアミド系高配向未延伸糸の繊度、伸度、複屈折率、密度、仮撚加工時の仮撚数、ヒータ温度、延伸倍率、加工張力比Ｋ（解撚張力／加撚張力）との間に前記関係式が成り立つ理由は明確ではないが、この関係式は多数の実験データに基ずいて解析した結果導き出されたものである。
【００２２】
なお、本発明における各物性値は、次の方法で測定するものである。
(1) 沸水処理後の弾性回復率（％）
まず、糸条に 100℃×30分の条件で沸水処理を施し, 自然乾燥させる。この糸条を定速引張試験機の上部把持部にセットした後、2/1000(g/d) の荷重を取り付け、弛みのない状態で下部把持部にセットし (試料長20cm) 、次いで、一定の速度(0.1ｍ／分) で沸水処理前の糸条の表示デニール当たり1/10(g/d) に相当する応力まで引張り、この応力に到達した後、直ちに引張速度と等速度で元に戻す。
【００２３】
このときに描かれる応力−歪曲線によって弾性回復率を測定する。すなわち、図３に示すような応力−歪曲線の回復の仕事量を示す面積α、伸長の仕事量を示す面積α＋βを測定し、次式で弾性回復率（％）を算出する。
弾性回復率（％）＝〔α／（α＋β）〕×１００
(2) 沸水処理後の捲縮数Ｍ（山／ｍ）
まず、糸条に 100℃×30分の条件で沸水処理を施し, 自然乾燥させる。この糸条を構成する単フィラメントに2/1000(g/d) の荷重を掛けた状態で糸長１ｍに存在する山数を測定し、その操作を５本の単フィラメントで繰り返し、その平均値を捲縮数Ｍとする。
(3) 伸度（％）
糸条に１／10(g/d) の荷重を負荷して試料長20cmで定速引張り試験機に掛け、次いで、一定の速度（0.2m／分) で引張り、最高強力時の伸び率を読んで伸度（％）とする。
(4) 複屈折率
偏光顕微鏡コンセンペータによる干渉縞計測法により測定する。
(5) 動摩擦係数 (μ)
糸条をアルミナピンに 120°の接触角度φ (＝π／３ラジアン) で接触させた状態で走行させ、アルミナピンへの入側の張力Ｔ₁と出側の張力Ｔ₂を測定し、次式より求める。
μ＝ log（Ｔ₂／Ｔ₁）／φ
【００２４】
【実施例】
次に、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。
【００２５】
実施例１〜３
ナイロン６高配向未延伸マルチフィラメント糸80d/24f を供給糸とし、三菱重工業社製仮撚機ＬＳ−６型を用い、表１に示す種々の条件で仮撚加工を施して伸縮性加工糸を得た。なお、高配向未延伸糸の密度ρは1.14g/cm³ 、延伸倍率は 1.2倍であり、得られた伸縮性加工糸の繊度はいずれも70d であった。
仮撚加工時の操業性、得られた伸縮性加工糸の弾性回復率、単フィラメントの捲縮数、品位を併せて表１に示す。
【００２６】
【表１】

【００２７】
表１から明らかなように、実施例１〜３は操業性の問題がなく、また、得られた伸縮性加工糸の沸水処理後の弾性回復率は72.5％以上、単フィラメントの捲縮数は1850山／ｍ以上と高い値を有しており、加工糸の品位も良好なものであった。
【００２８】
実施例１〜３で得られた高伸縮性加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用いて、経糸密度170 本/2.54cm 、緯糸密度84本/2.54cm で平織物に製織し、通常のポリアミド処法による染色仕上加工を行った。
得られた織物は、高伸縮性でスポーツウエアなどの動きの激しい衣料として好適に使用できるものであり、しかも、従来の伸縮性加工糸使いの織物と比べて、目面のクリンプが細かく、美しい表面効果を有するものであった。
【００２９】
比較例１〜４
高配向未延伸糸の動摩擦係数や仮撚加工条件を表２のように変更した以外は実施例１と同様にして加工糸と織物を製造した。
仮撚加工時の操業性、得られた加工糸の弾性回復率、単フィラメントの捲縮数、品位を併せて表２に示す。
【００３０】
【表２】

【００３１】
表２から明らかなように、比較例１は、高配向未延伸糸の動摩擦係数が低く、かつ仮撚数も低いので、得られた加工糸は、通常の仮撚加工糸と同程度の弾性回復率と捲縮数しか有していなかった。また、比較例２は、高配向未延伸糸の動摩擦係数が低いので、仮撚加工時の操業性や、沸水処理後の弾性回復率及び単フィラメントの捲縮数は良好なものの、仮撚加工中に仮撚ピンをスリップして通過した実撚が加工糸に残存し、得られた加工糸の品位は悪いものであった。次に、比較例３は、高配向未延伸糸の動摩擦係数が低く、かつ仮撚ピンの捲き数が２回なので解撚張力が高くて加工張力比も高くなり、このため、仮撚機のローラや仮撚ピンの摩耗が発生して操業性が悪く、また、得られた加工糸は、毛羽のため品位が悪いものであった。さらに，比較例４は、仮撚数が高いので、得られた加工糸は、沸水処理後の弾性回復率と単フィラメントの捲縮数は良好なものの、仮撚加工時に糸切れが多く発生し、操業性が悪いものであった。
また、比較例１で得られた加工糸の織物は伸縮性に乏しく、比較例２〜４で得られた織物は、伸縮性はあるものの、残存した実撚や毛羽のために品位が劣るものであった。
【００３２】
【発明の効果】
本発明のポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸は、優れた伸縮性と品位を有し、この加工糸を製編織して通常の染色仕上げを施せば、弾性糸使いのような伸縮性と目面のクリンプが細かく、美しい表面効果のある外観と風合を有する布帛を得ることができる。
【００３３】
また、本発明の製造方法によれば、上記の利点を有するポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸を簡便に、かつ安定して製造することが可能となる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明のポリアミド系高伸縮性加工糸の沸水処理後の一実施態様を示す側面模式図である。
【図２】本発明の高伸縮性加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの沸水処理後の一実施態様を示す説明図である。
【図３】本発明の高伸縮性加工糸の応力−歪曲線の一例を示すグラフである。
【図４】従来の仮撚加工で得られる伸縮性加工糸の沸水処理後の一実施態様を示す側面模式図である。
【図５】従来の仮撚加工でら得られる伸縮性加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの沸水処理後の説明図である。
【符号の説明】
α 回復の仕事量を示す面積
α＋β 伸長の仕事量を示す面積
ａ捲縮を有する単フィラメントの山部
ｂ捲縮を有する単フィラメントの谷部
Ｈ捲縮を有する単フィラメントの山部と谷部間の距離[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyamide-based highly stretchable processed yarn that is highly crimped and excellent in stretchability, and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Usually, the polyamide-based elastic processed yarn is manufactured by first twisting a supply yarn and then false twisting, or by additional twisting after false twisting. Thus, since the conventional elastic processed yarn was manufactured in two steps, there was a drawback that the cost was high.
[0003]
In order to eliminate this drawback, various methods have been proposed. For example, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 57-17093 and Japanese Examined Publication No. 61-27494 propose a method of manufacturing only by a false twisting process. However, even if the processed yarn obtained by these methods is used as a fabric, it can give elasticity superior to that of a normal false twisted yarn, but the elastic recovery rate of the processed yarn after boiling water treatment is About 60%, the expansion / contraction performance was insufficient.
[0004]
Moreover, since the dynamic friction coefficient of the supply yarn is small in these methods, untwisting the supply yarn to the false twist pin twice and false twisting increases the untwisting tension during false twisting, and fluff is generated in the processed yarn. In addition to causing thread breakage and stopping in the weaving process, the rollers and false twisting pins of the false twisting machine were heavily worn, and the operation was not stable. On the other hand, when the supply yarn is wound once on the false twist pin and false twisted, the real twist highly imparted in the twisted region slips through the false twist pin and propagates to the untwisted region. Remains, and the quality of the obtained processed yarn is lowered.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention solves the above problems, has a polyamide-based highly stretchable processed yarn having excellent stretchability and good quality, and a method capable of producing the processed yarn with stable operability. It is a technical problem to provide.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have reached the present invention.
That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
(A) A processed yarn composed of a polyamide-based multifilament, having an elastic recovery rate of 70% or more after boiling water treatment, and the number M of crimps of single filaments constituting the treated yarn after boiling water treatment ( A high-stretch polyamide-based yarn characterized in that the mountain / m) satisfies the following formula (1).
14,200 / d ₁ ^1/2 <M (1)
Here, d ₁ is the fineness (denier) of the high stretch processed yarn.
(B) When twisting a polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 45 to 75%, a birefringence of 35 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , and a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.3 or more, a false twist pin The number of twisted yarns is set to 1 and the number of false twists T (t / m), heater temperature θ (° C), and processing tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) are expressed by the following formula (2) (3) A false twisting process that satisfies (3) and (4).
5 × 10 ⁴ × (ρDr / πd ₂ ) ^1/2 <T <7 × 10 ⁴ × (ρDr / πd ₂ ) ^1/2 (2)
1.6 × 10 ² ρ <θ <1.9 × 10 ² ρ (3)
K <14 × 10 ⁴ × Dr / Td ₂ ^1/2 (4)
Where ρ is the density (g / cm ³ ) of the highly oriented undrawn yarn, Dr is the draw ratio during false twisting, and d ₂ is the fineness (denier) of the highly oriented undrawn yarn.
[0007]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0008]
First, the polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn of the first invention will be described.
The high stretch processed yarn of the present invention is composed of a polyamide-based multifilament, has an elastic recovery rate of 70% or more after boiling water treatment, and the crimp number M (mountain / m) after boiling water treatment is The expression (1) is satisfied.
[0009]
FIG. 1 is a schematic side view after boiling water treatment showing an embodiment of the high stretch processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of a single filament constituting the highly stretchable yarn after boiling water treatment. It is. In FIG. 2, a single filament has many fine crimps, and the height difference H between the crests a and troughs b is about 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm.
[0010]
Also, since the high stretch processed yarn after boiling water treatment has many contact points and entanglements between the filaments, the contact points and entanglements are maintained even when the load is applied and stretched, and the load is removed. This is an unprecedented highly stretchable yarn with excellent yarn length recovery, with sufficient force to return crimps and an elastic recovery rate of 70% or more.
[0011]
On the other hand, FIG. 4 is a schematic side view of a stretch processed yarn obtained by conventional false twisting after boiling water treatment, and FIG. 5 is an illustration of a single filament constituting the conventional stretch processed yarn after boiling water treatment. FIG. In FIG. 5, there is a crimp in which the height difference H between the peak portion a and the valley portion b is 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm, but the filament crimp is larger than that of the present invention shown in FIG. The number is small.
In addition, since the conventional stretch processed yarn has few contact points and entanglements that exist between filaments even after boiling water treatment, the contact points and entanglements are eliminated when a load is applied and stretched, and the positional relationship between the filaments changes. To do. For this reason, even if the load is removed, other filaments become obstacles, and the force to return the crimp does not act sufficiently, and the yarn length can be recovered only about 60% in terms of the elastic recovery rate.
[0012]
Next, a method for producing the polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn of the second invention will be described.
[0013]
The high stretch processed yarn of the first invention is a polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 45 to 75%, a birefringence of 35 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , and a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.3 or more. When twisting, the number of yarns twisted on the false twist pin is set to one, the false twist number T (t / m), the heater temperature θ (° C.), and the work tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting) (Tension) can be obtained by false twisting so that the above formulas (2), (3) and (4) are satisfied.
[0014]
Conventional stretch-processed yarn is a twisted twisted polyamide based unstretched yarn to which an oil agent with a dynamic friction coefficient of less than 0.3 is attached so that the unwinding property does not decrease after being spun off after spinning. In order to prevent the region twist from slipping through the false twist pin, this highly oriented undrawn yarn was wound twice on the false twist pin and false twisted. However, in this manufacturing method, the false twist number T (t / m) cannot be set to a twist number exceeding 5 × 10 ⁴ × (ρD _r / πd ₂ ) ^1/2 which is the lower limit of the equation (2). In addition to being unable to obtain a processed yarn having sufficient stretchability, the untwisting tension becomes high, so that generation of fluff is induced, and the rollers and false twisting pins of the false twisting machine are worn.
In addition, in order to reduce the untwisting tension, when manufacturing stretchable yarn by twisting once on a false twist pin and false twisting, the number of false twists T (t / m) is expressed by the above formula (2) If the range satisfies the above, the twist of the twisted region slips and passes through the false twist pin, and the quality of the processed yarn obtained by leaving the actual twist on the yarn deteriorates.
[0015]
For this reason, the present inventors have paid attention to the physical properties and false twisting conditions of the polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn, and as a result of earnest research, the number of false twists T (t / m) within the range satisfying the above formula (2). In order to produce a stretch processed yarn with good workability, the elongation, birefringence, dynamic friction coefficient and false twisting number of falsely oriented yarn, false twist, heater temperature, draw ratio, processing It has been found that the tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) is closely related.
[0016]
That is, the polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn to be supplied in the present invention has a condition that the elongation is 45 to 75%, the birefringence is 35 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , and the dynamic friction coefficient is 0.3 or more. Must be satisfied at the same time. When the elongation or birefringence is less than the lower limit or exceeds the upper limit of the above range, crimped spots are generated and uniform stretchability cannot be obtained, or processing stability and dyeing fastness are lowered. Therefore, it is not preferable. Moreover, when the dynamic friction coefficient is less than 0.3, the twist in the twisted region slips and passes through the false twist pin, which is not preferable.
[0017]
Bisphenol A EO / PO dilaurate (smoothing agent) 22%
Trimethylolpropane EO / POMW4500 (smoothing agent) 36%
Polyphenol compound (dispersant) 16%
POE (25) hydrogenated castor oil (dispersant) 11%
C _12-15 phosphate K (antistatic agent) 10%
POE (5) C _12-15 phosphate K (Antistatic agent) 5%
The polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn having a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.3 or more can be obtained, for example, by applying 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of an oil agent having the above composition to the highly oriented undrawn yarn.
[0018]
Next, of the false twisting conditions, the number of yarns twisted on the false twist pin is one, the false twist number T (t / m) is the above equation (2), and the heater temperature θ (° C.) is the above (3) The formula, work tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) must satisfy the above formula (4) at the same time.
[0019]
Since the number Maki yarn to false twisting pin in the case of more than once, it is not possible to set the false twist number T (t / m) or more lower limit of the expression (2), sufficient stretchability Not only is the processed yarn possessed not obtained, but also the untwisting tension becomes high, so that generation of fluff is induced and wear of the rollers and false twisting pins of the false twisting machine is undesirable. Further, when the false twist number T is less than the lower limit of the above range, the stretchability imparted to the processed yarn becomes substantially the same as that of a normal false twisted yarn, whereas when the upper limit of the above range is exceeded, the processed yarn has fluff. This is not preferable because the quality deteriorates and yarn breakage occurs.
[0020]
Next, when the heater temperature θ (° C.) is less than the lower limit of the above range, the heat setability during false twisting is deteriorated, and sufficient stretchability cannot be imparted to the processed yarn. This is not preferable because the processed yarn is weak and causes yarn breakage. In addition, if the processing tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) exceeds the above range, the untwisting tension increases, so that generation of fuzz is induced, and the rollers and false twisting pins of the false twisting machine are worn. This is not preferable.
[0021]
Between the fineness, elongation, birefringence, density, false twist number during false twisting, heater temperature, draw ratio, working tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) of polyamide-oriented highly oriented undrawn yarn The reason why the above relational expression holds is not clear, but this relational expression is derived as a result of analysis based on a large number of experimental data.
[0022]
In addition, each physical property value in the present invention is measured by the following method.
(1) Elastic recovery rate after boiling water treatment (%)
First, the yarn is treated with boiling water at 100 ° C for 30 minutes and allowed to dry naturally. After setting this thread on the upper gripping part of the constant-speed tensile testing machine, attach a load of 2/1000 (g / d), set it on the lower gripping part with no slack (sample length 20 cm), then Pull at a constant speed (0.1 m / min) to a stress equivalent to 1/10 (g / d) of the indicated denier of the yarn before boiling water treatment. After reaching this stress, immediately at the same speed as the tensile speed Return to.
[0023]
The elastic recovery rate is measured by the stress-strain curve drawn at this time. That is, the area α indicating the work of recovery of the stress-strain curve as shown in FIG. 3 and the area α + β indicating the work of elongation are measured, and the elastic recovery rate (%) is calculated by the following equation.
Elastic recovery rate (%) = [α / (α + β)] × 100
(2) Number of crimps M (mountain / m) after boiling water treatment
First, the yarn is treated with boiling water at 100 ° C for 30 minutes and allowed to dry naturally. Measure the number of ridges existing in a thread length of 1 m with a load of 2/1000 (g / d) applied to the single filament composing the yarn, repeat the operation with 5 single filaments, and calculate the average value. Is the crimp number M.
(3) Elongation (%)
Apply a 1/10 (g / d) load to the yarn, apply it to a constant-speed tensile tester with a sample length of 20 cm, and then pull at a constant speed (0.2 m / min) to obtain the elongation at maximum strength. Read as elongation (%).
(4) Measured by interference fringe measurement using a birefringence polarization microscope concentrator.
(5) Coefficient of dynamic friction (μ)
The yarn is run in contact with the alumina pin at a contact angle φ (= π / 3 radians) of 120 °, and the tension T ₁ on the entry side and the tension T ₂ on the exit side of the alumina pin are measured. Obtained from the formula.
μ = log (T ₂ / T ₁ ) / φ
[0024]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples.
[0025]
Examples 1-3
Using nylon 6 highly oriented unstretched multifilament yarn 80d / 24f as a feed yarn, using a false twisting machine LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. Obtained. The density ρ of the highly oriented undrawn yarn was 1.14 g / cm ³ , the draw ratio was 1.2 times, and the fineness of the resulting stretch processed yarn was 70d.
Table 1 shows the operability at the time of false twisting, the elastic recovery rate of the obtained stretch processed yarn, the number of crimps of the single filament, and the quality.
[0026]
[Table 1]

[0027]
As is apparent from Table 1, Examples 1 to 3 have no problem of operability, and the elastic recovery rate after boiling water treatment of the obtained stretch processed yarn is 72.5% or more, and the number of crimps of the single filament is The value was as high as 1850 m / m and the quality of the processed yarn was also good.
[0028]
Using the high stretch processed yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 3 for warp and weft, weaving into a plain woven fabric with a warp density of 170 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 84 / 2.54 cm, and using a normal polyamide processing method Dye finish processing was performed.
The resulting woven fabric is highly stretchable and can be suitably used as a garment that moves rapidly, such as sportswear. In addition, the crimp on the eyes is fine and beautiful compared to conventional woven fabric using stretch-processed yarn. It had a surface effect.
[0029]
Comparative Examples 1-4
A processed yarn and a woven fabric were produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the dynamic friction coefficient and false twisting conditions of the highly oriented undrawn yarn were changed as shown in Table 2.
Table 2 shows the operability during false twisting, the elastic recovery rate of the obtained processed yarn, the number of crimps of single filaments, and the quality.
[0030]
[Table 2]

[0031]
As is clear from Table 2, Comparative Example 1 has a low dynamic friction coefficient of the highly oriented undrawn yarn and a low false twist number, so that the obtained processed yarn has an elasticity comparable to that of a normal false twisted yarn. Only had recovery rate and number of crimps. In Comparative Example 2, since the dynamic friction coefficient of the highly oriented undrawn yarn is low, the operability during false twisting, the elastic recovery after boiling water treatment, and the number of crimps of the single filament are good, but false twisting The actual twist that slipped and passed through the false twist pin remained in the processed yarn, and the quality of the obtained processed yarn was poor. Next, Comparative Example 3 has a low dynamic friction coefficient of the highly oriented undrawn yarn and the number of twists of the false twisting pin is 2, so that the untwisting tension is high and the working tension ratio is also high. The roller and false twist pin were worn out, resulting in poor operability, and the obtained processed yarn was of poor quality due to fluff. Furthermore, since Comparative Example 4 has a high false twist number, the obtained processed yarn has a good elastic recovery rate after boiling water treatment and the number of crimps of a single filament, but many yarn breaks occur during false twist processing. The operability was bad.
In addition, the fabric of the processed yarn obtained in Comparative Example 1 is poor in stretchability, and the fabric obtained in Comparative Examples 2 to 4 is inferior in quality because of the remaining real twist and fluff, although it is stretchable. Met.
[0032]
【The invention's effect】
The polyamide-based highly stretchable processed yarn of the present invention has excellent stretchability and quality, and if this processed yarn is knitted and woven to give a normal dyeing finish, the stretchability and surface properties of the elastic yarn are used. A fabric having a fine crimp and a beautiful surface effect and feel can be obtained.
[0033]
Moreover, according to the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is possible to easily and stably manufacture a polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn having the above-mentioned advantages.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an embodiment of the polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn of the present invention after boiling water treatment.
FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing an embodiment after boiling water treatment of a single filament constituting the highly stretchable yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing an example of a stress-strain curve of the highly stretchable yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a schematic side view showing an embodiment of the stretch processed yarn obtained by conventional false twisting after boiling water treatment.
FIG. 5 is an explanatory view after boiling water treatment of a single filament constituting a stretchable yarn obtained by conventional false twisting.
[Explanation of symbols]
α Area that indicates the work of recovery α + β Area that indicates the work of elongation a Crest of single filament having crimp b Valley of single filament having crimp H Between crest and trough of single filament having crimp Distance of

Claims

A processed yarn composed of a polyamide-based multifilament, having an elastic recovery rate of 70% or more after boiling water treatment, and the number of crimps M (mountain / m) of the single filament constituting the treated yarn after boiling water treatment ) Satisfies the following formula (1): a polyamide-based high stretch processed yarn.
14,200 / d ₁ ^1/2 <M (1)
Here, d ₁ is the fineness (denier) of the high stretch processed yarn.

When false twisting a polyamide-based highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 45 to 75%, a birefringence of 35 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , and a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.3 or more, a yarn to a false twist pin The number of twists in the strip is one, and the number of false twists T (t / m), heater temperature θ (° C), and processing tension ratio K (untwisting tension / twisting tension) are expressed by the following formulas (2), (3 ) And (4), a process for producing a polyamide-based highly stretchable processed yarn, wherein false twisting is performed.
5 × 10 ⁴ × (ρDr / πd ₂ ) ^1/2 <T <7 × 10 ⁴ × (ρDr / πd ₂ ) ^1/2 (2)
1.6 × 10 ² ρ <θ <1.9 × 10 ² ρ (3)
K <14 × 10 ⁴ × Dr / Td ₂ ^1/2 (4)
Where ρ is the density (g / cm ³ ) of the highly oriented undrawn yarn, Dr is the draw ratio during false twisting, and d ₂ is the fineness (denier) of the highly oriented undrawn yarn.