JP3703945B2 - Composite design yarn and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
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- JP3703945B2 JP3703945B2 JP18029697A JP18029697A JP3703945B2 JP 3703945 B2 JP3703945 B2 JP 3703945B2 JP 18029697 A JP18029697 A JP 18029697A JP 18029697 A JP18029697 A JP 18029697A JP 3703945 B2 JP3703945 B2 JP 3703945B2
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、最外層が異染色性のスラブ部を糸の長手方向に含む複合意匠糸及びその製造方法に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来より、複合仮撚糸として、芯糸の加撚域にオーバーフィード状態で供給された鞘糸が一重捲回構造の道中部と鞘糸が多重捲回構造のスラブ部とを有する糸は、特公昭４５−２８０１８号公報、特公昭４７−４９４５９号公報等で公知であり、これら複合仮撚糸は、紬調の織物等の素材として広く使用されているが、さらに、道中部でのずり抜けを防止するため、押さえ糸を捲回させることが特開平７−１５０４３３号公報で、また、スラブ部の長さ、大きさ、頻度に変化を与えるため、鞘糸の供給位置を芯糸の走行方向と正逆に移動させることが特開平７−１５７９３３号公報で知られている。
【０００３】
しかしながら、従来の複合仮撚糸は、いずれも最終捲き付けの鞘糸或いは押さえ糸が最外層となるスラブ部を有するものであり、例えば、鞘糸として異染色性の２本或いは鞘糸とは異染色性の押さえ糸を用いたときでも、得られる複合仮撚糸には、せいぜい濃淡効果或いはミックス効果を奏するスラブ部が現出するにすぎず、一本の糸中のスラブ部はいずれも最終捲き付けの鞘糸或いは押さえ糸による同一の染色性を有するものであった。
【０００４】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、従来の複合仮撚糸とは異なり、一本の糸中に染色性を異にする糸でそれぞれ最外層を形成したスラブ部を混在させ、意匠性に富む糸をを提供すべくなされたものであり、本発明の目的は、染色したときに同一糸中の長手方向に異色のスラブを現出する、最外層が異色性のスラブ部を糸の長手方向に混在して含む複合意匠糸を提供することにある。また、かかる複合意匠糸を仮撚加工により得ることにある。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、芯糸外周に鞘糸が一重に捲回された道中部及び鞘糸が多重に捲回されたスラブ部とを有する複合意匠糸であって、鞘糸が染色性を異にする２本の鞘糸からなり、各鞘糸がそれぞれ最外層を形成する少なくとも２種の異色性のスラブ部を糸の長手方向にランダム及び／又は規則的に含むことを特徴とする複合意匠糸、
【０００６】
及び、芯糸の仮撚加工における加撚域に、染色性を異にする２本の鞘糸をそれぞれ独立に供給ガイドを介してオーバーフィード状態で供給し、芯糸の外周に鞘糸を捲回した複合意匠糸を製造するに際し、一方の供給ガイドを、移動可能とすると共に、他方の供給ガイドによる鞘糸の捲き付き振幅域より上流の位置から下流の位置までを往復移動させることを特徴とする複合意匠糸の製造方法、にある。
【０００７】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の複合意匠糸においては、芯糸への鞘糸の捲回により一重捲回構造の道中部と三重以上の多重捲回構造のスラブ部とが形成され、しかも、スラブ部は、染色性を異にする２本の鞘糸の一方の鞘糸が最外層をなす多重捲回構造のスラブ部と他方の鞘糸が最外層をなす多重捲回構造のスラブ部とから構成されている。道中部は、鞘糸としては芯糸に一重に捲回されて形成されているが、２本の鞘糸がそれぞれ捲回されて形成された部分、一方の鞘糸が捲回された上にさらに他方の鞘糸が捲回された部分を含んでいる。
【０００８】
本発明の複合意匠糸は、各鞘糸がそれぞれスラブ部の最外層を形成し、一方の鞘糸が最外層を形成するスラブ部、他方の鞘糸が最外層を形成するスラブ部を有し、或いは一方の鞘糸に他方の鞘糸がミックスして最外層を形成するスラブ部の少なくとも２種の異色性のスラブ部を糸の長手方向にランダム及び／又は規則的に含んでいる。
【０００９】
本発明の複合意匠糸における芯糸としては、仮撚加工が適用されるフィラメント糸であればよく、例えばポリエステル繊維、ポリアミド繊維、セルロースアセテート繊維、レーヨン繊維等が挙げられ、フィラメント糸は、モノフィラメント糸であってもよいが、マルチフィラメント糸であることが好ましい。
【００１０】
また、２本の鞘糸としては、染色性の相違に基づき選択して組み合わされる限りにおいては特に制限はなく、例えば分散染料で染色されるポリエステル繊維、易染性ポリエステル繊維、セルロースアセテート繊維、分散染料、反応染料で染色されるポリアミド繊維、カチオン染料で染色されるアクリル繊維、スルホン酸基導入のカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維、反応染料、直接染料で染色されるレーヨン等のマルチフィラメント糸が挙げられ、これらの染色性の異なる鞘糸の組み合わせとする。
【００１１】
また、２本の鞘糸は、染色性が異なれば、それらの一方或いは両方が異繊度糸、異収縮糸、部分配向糸、高応力高収縮糸、極細糸或いはこれらの複合糸等であってもよい。また、２本の鞘糸は、同じ繊度の鞘糸であってもよいが、一方の鞘糸は、異色の色彩による意匠効果を高める上で全繊度の２５％以下である繊度の鞘糸であることが好ましい。
【００１２】
特に好ましい本発明の複合意匠糸の糸構成は、芯糸がポリエステルフィラメント糸、鞘糸の一方がセルロースアセテートフィラメント糸又はレーヨンフィラメント糸、鞘糸の他方がカチオン可染性ポリエステルフィラメント糸であり、各鞘糸がそれぞれスラブ部の最外層が形成されることにより、最外層の鞘糸に基づきスラブ部に異色性のスラブ部、さらには異感触性のスラブ部を含まれることにより、色彩上だけでなく風合い上からも意匠効果に富む複合意匠糸となし得る。
【００１３】
本発明の複合意匠糸は、道中部、スラブ部での一方の鞘糸による他方の鞘糸の押さえ、撚りにより、充分に固定され、集束性が良好で、ずり抜けがない複合意匠糸であり、良好な製織性、製編性を有し、製織、製編して織編物とし、適宜染料により染色したときに、糸の構成、特に鞘糸の構成に基づいて染色された糸のスラブ部の異色効果により、従来の複合仮撚糸による織編物には見られぬ極めて優れた意匠効果を奏する。
【００１４】
本発明の複合意匠糸は、基本的には、芯糸の仮撚加工における加撚域に、染色性を異にする２本の鞘糸をそれぞれ独立に供給ガイドを介してオーバーフィード状態で供給し、芯糸の外周に鞘糸を捲回した複合意匠糸を製造するに際し、一方の供給ガイドを、移動可能とすると共に、他方の供給ガイドによる鞘糸の捲き付き振幅域より上流の位置から下流の位置までを往復移動させることにより製造される。
【００１５】
より詳しくは、芯糸の仮撚加工における加撚域に、２本の鞘糸をそれぞれ独立に供給ガイドを介して供給するにあたり、２個の供給ガイドのうちの一方の供給ガイドを芯糸の走行路と平行に移動可能にし、他方の供給ガイドによる鞘糸の捲き付き振幅域より上流の位置から下流の位置までの間を往復移動させることにより、一方の供給ガイドが他方の供給ガイドより上流の位置にある状態と、一方の供給ガイドが他方の供給ガイドより下流の位置にある状態とを作り、２個の供給ガイドの相対的な位置関係がランダム及び／又は規則的に反転するように設置して、２本の鞘糸を、それぞれ供給ガイドを介し、オーバーフィード状態で供給して芯糸の外周に捲回させることにより本発明の複合意匠糸が製造される。
【００１６】
本発明の複合意匠糸の製造方法においては、上流に位置する供給ガイドを介して供給され芯糸の周囲に捲回された鞘糸の外周に、下流に位置する供給ガイドを介して供給された鞘糸が捲回されるが、２個の供給ガイドの相対的な位置関係をランダム及び／又は規則的に反転させることにより、特に鞘糸の多重捲回のスラブ部において、スラブ部の最外周となる鞘糸がランダム及び／又は規則的に反転し、一方の鞘糸が最外周となるスラブ部と他方の鞘糸が最外周となるスラブ部とが形成する。
【００１７】
２個の供給ガイドは、一方の移動可能な供給ガイドの移動を阻害しないよう他方の供給ガイドと芯糸の走行路に対する位置角度をずらして設置し、好ましくはそれぞれ芯糸の走行路に対し８０〜２００ｍｍの距離に設置する。また、２個の供給ガイドは、一方の供給ガイドを移動可能とし、他方の供給ガイドを固定して設置することが好ましいが、２個の供給ガイドの相対的な位置関係が反転可能であれば、両方の供給ガイドをそれぞれ移動可能に設置してもよい。
【００１８】
移動可能な供給ガイドは、芯糸の加撚域であって、他方の供給ガイドによる鞘糸の捲き付き振幅域より上流の位置から下流の位置までの間を往復移動させる。移動可能な供給ガイドの移動速度、往復移動頻度は、任意に設定されるが、供給ガイドを芯糸の走行方向と同方向の下流へ移動させるときは、その移動速度を芯糸の糸速（ｍ／分）の０．３〜０．６倍の速度、供給ガイドを芯糸の走行方向とは逆方向の上流へ移動させるときは、その移動速度を芯糸の糸速（ｍ／分）の０．２〜０．５倍の速度とすることが好ましい。
【００１９】
２本の鞘糸は、それぞれオーバーフィード状態で芯糸の加撚域に供給する必要がある。各鞘糸のオーバーフィード率は、２個の供給ガイドの位置関係によりそれぞれ変動可能とし、上流に位置する側の供給ガイドを介して供給するときの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率は、２０〜１００％、下流に位置する側の供給ガイドを介して供給するときの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率は、７０〜１４０％とすることが好ましい。
【００２０】
上流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率と下流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率は、上流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率が下流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率より大であってもよいが、スラブ部の最外層のより完全な被覆を得る上から、上流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率より下流に位置する側の供給ガイドからの鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を大とすることが好ましく、その差が４０％以上あることが望ましい。
【００２１】
すなわち、例えば、２本の鞘糸のうちの一方の鞘糸が移動可能な供給ガイドを介して供給されるとき、移動可能な供給ガイドが他方の供給ガイドより上流にあるときの位置を検出し、そのオーバーフィード率を小さくすると共に、移動可能な供給ガイドより相対的に下流となった他方の供給ガイドを介しての他方の鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を大きくし、また、移動可能な供給ガイドが他方の供給ガイドより下流にあるときの位置を検出し、そのオーバーフィード率を大きくすると共に、移動可能な供給ガイドより相対的に上流となった他方の供給ガイドを介しての他方の鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を小さくする。
【００２２】
２本の鞘糸は、鞘糸供給ローラによってオーバーフィード状態に供給され、それぞれのオーバーフィード率は、２個の供給ガイドの相対的な位置関係をセンサ−等により検出して予め設定された数値にランダム及び／又は規則的に変わる鞘糸供給ローラの回転数により制御される。また、芯糸は、マグネットテンサ、定速ニップローラ等により一定に供給される。
【００２３】
本発明の複合意匠糸の製造方法における仮撚加工には、熱可塑性フィラメント糸の仮撚加工に用いられると同様の１ヒータ或いは２ヒータの仮撚加工機に鞘糸の２個の供給ガイドを設け、一方の供給ガイドを他方の供給ガイドによる鞘糸の捲き付き振幅域より上流の位置から下流の位置までを往復移動可能に設けた装置が用いられる。仮撚加工における仮撚具には特に制限はないが、スピンドル方式のものが好ましく用いられ、また、仮撚数は、３２５００／Ｄ1/2×０．８〜３２５００／Ｄ1/2×１．０（Ｄ：全繊度）とすることが好ましい。
【００２４】
【実施例】
以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。
【００２５】
（実施例１〜４）
２ヒータ方式の、仮撚具としてスピンドルを用いた仮撚加工装置を用い、装置には２個の鞘糸供給ガイドを、一方の供給ガイドは、芯糸加撚域の走行路に対し１４０ｍｍの距離に固定して設置し、他方の供給ガイドは、位置をずらして芯糸加撚域の走行路に対し１４０ｍｍの距離に芯糸加撚域の走行路と平行に固定した供給ガイドの上方２００ｍｍ、下方１５０ｍｍの間の３５０ｍｍの距離を移動可能なように設置した。
【００２６】
前記装置にて、表１に示す芯糸、鞘糸Ａ、鞘糸Ｂを用いて、仮撚方向Ｚ、第１ヒータ温度１６０℃、第２ヒーター温度１８０℃とし、芯糸をマグネットテンサにて供給し、鞘糸Ａを移動可能な供給ガイドを介し、鞘糸Ｂを固定した供給ガイドを介して芯糸の加撚域にそれぞれ供給ローラにて供給した。鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドの上流に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドの下流に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して相対的に鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドが下流に位置するときの鞘糸Ｂのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して相対的に鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドが上流に位置するときの鞘糸Ｂのオーバーフィード率、仮撚数、糸速、温度を、表２に示す条件に設定してそれぞれ複合仮撚加工を行った。
【００２７】
【表１】
【表２】
得られた複合意匠糸は、いずれも長さが０．８〜５ｃｍのスラブ部が糸の長手方向に１ｍ当たり６〜１２個の頻度で出現し、スラブ部とスラブ部との間には長さが１〜２０ｃｍのストレートな道中部を有するものであった。
【００３０】
得られた複合意匠糸を引き揃え、赤色のカチオン染料で捺染により染色したところ、染色糸は、糸の長手方向に長さ７０〜９０ｃｍに亘る赤色のスラブ群と長さ８５〜１２５ｃｍに亘る無着色のスラブ群とがほぼランダムに混在し、赤色のスラブ群のスラブ部間に長さ１〜２０ｃｍの赤色の道中部、無色のスラブ群のスラブ部間に長さ１〜１０ｃｍの無色の道中部とを有するものであった。また、得られた複合意匠糸を、青色のカチオン染料と黄色の分散染料で浸染により染色したところ、染色糸は、糸の長手方向に青緑色のスラブ部と黄色のスラブ部とがほぼランダムに混在し、青緑色の道中部と黄色の道中部を有するものであった。
【００３１】
（実施例５〜８）
実施例１にて用いたと同じ装置にて、表３に示す芯糸、鞘糸Ａ、鞘糸Ｂを用いて、仮撚方向Ｚ、第１ヒータ温度１６０℃、第２ヒーター温度１８０℃とし、芯糸をマグネットテンサにて供給し、鞘糸Ａを移動可能な供給ガイドを介し、鞘糸Ｂを固定した供給ガイドを介して芯糸の加撚域にそれぞれ供給ローラにて供給した。鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドの上流に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドの下流に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して相対的に鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドが下流に位置するときの鞘糸Ｂのオーバーフィード率、鞘糸Ａ供給ガイドが移動して相対的に鞘糸Ｂ供給ガイドが上流に位置するときの鞘糸Ｂのオーバーフィード率、仮撚数、糸速、温度を、表４に示す条件に設定してそれぞれ複合仮撚加工を行った。
【００３２】
【表３】
【表４】
得られた複合意匠糸は、いずれも長さが０．８〜１０ｃｍのスラブ部が糸の長手方向に１ｍ当たり４〜１８個の頻度で出現し、スラブ部とスラブ部との間には長さ１〜２０ｃｍのストレートな道中部を有するものであり、鞘糸Ａガイドが上流部に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率と下流部に位置するときの鞘糸Ａのオーバーフィード率との差が大きい程道中部とスラブ部の形態が明瞭となり、またオーバーフィード率の差が小さいとスラブの上にスラブが重なった太いスラブ部が形成されていた。
【００３５】
実施例５で得られた複合意匠糸を引き揃え、赤色の反応染料で捺染により染色したところ、染色糸は、糸の長手方向に赤色のスラブ部と無着色のスラブ部とがランダムに混在し、道中部にも赤色の道中部と無色の道中部を有するものであり、実施例６〜８得られた複合意匠糸を引き揃え、赤色のカチオン染料で捺染により染色したところ、糸の長手方向に赤色のスラブ部と無着色のスラブ部とがランダムに混在し、赤色の道中部と無色の道中部を有するものであった。また、実施例５で得られた複合意匠糸を、赤色の反応染料と青色のカチオン染料で浸染により染色したところ、染色糸は、糸の長手方向に赤色のスラブ部と青色のスラブ部とがほぼランダムに混在し、赤色の道中部と青色の道中部を有するものであった。
【００３６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の複合意匠糸は、従来の複合仮撚糸とは異なり、一本の糸中に染色性を異にする鞘糸でそれぞれ最外層が形成されたスラブ部が混在し、染色したときに、スラブ部が最外層の鞘糸に対応する異なる色相に染色され得るものであり、同一糸中の長手方向に異色のスラブを現出し、極めて意匠性に富む複合意匠糸となる。また、本発明の方法により、かかる複合意匠糸が仮撚加工により容易に得ることができる。本発明の複合意匠糸は、特に衣料分野における織編物の素材として好適に用いられる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a composite design yarn in which the outermost layer includes a slab portion having different dyeing properties in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, as a composite false twisted yarn, the sheath yarn supplied in an overfeed state to the twisted region of the core yarn has a single-winding structure in the middle of the road and the sheath yarn has a multi-winding structure slab portion. These composite false twisted yarns are widely used as materials for toned fabrics, etc., but are further known to slip through in the middle of the road, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication Nos. 45-28018 and 47-49459. In order to prevent this, the presser thread is wound in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-150433, and the length, size, and frequency of the slab portion are changed. It is known in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-157933 to move in the opposite direction.
[0003]
However, any of the conventional composite false twisted yarns has a slab portion in which the final braided sheath yarn or presser yarn is the outermost layer. Even when dyeable presser yarns are used, the resulting composite false twisted yarn only has a slab portion that exhibits a light or dark effect or a mix effect, and any slab portion in a single yarn is finally chopped. It had the same dyeability with an attached sheath yarn or presser yarn.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention, unlike a conventional composite false twisted yarn, is intended to provide a yarn that is rich in design by mixing slab portions each having an outermost layer made of yarns having different dyeability in one yarn. The object of the present invention is to provide a composite design in which different color slabs appear in the longitudinal direction in the same yarn when dyed, and the outermost layer includes a heterochromatic slab portion mixed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. To provide yarn. Another object is to obtain such a composite design yarn by false twisting.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention is a composite design yarn having a midway portion in which a sheath yarn is wound on the outer periphery of the core yarn and a slab portion in which the sheath yarn is wound in multiple layers, and the sheath yarn has different dyeability. A composite design yarn comprising two sheath yarns, each sheath yarn comprising at least two differently colored slab portions forming outermost layers randomly and / or regularly in the longitudinal direction of the yarn,
[0006]
In addition, two sheath yarns having different dyeing properties are independently supplied in an overfeed state to the twisted region in the false twisting process of the core yarn through a supply guide, and the sheath yarn is wound around the outer periphery of the core yarn. When producing a rotated composite design yarn, one of the supply guides can be moved and reciprocated from a position upstream to a downstream position from the amplitude range of the sheath yarn with the other supply guide. And a method for producing a composite designed yarn.
[0007]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In the composite design yarn of the present invention, the middle part of the single wound structure and the slab part of the multiple wound structure of triple or more are formed by winding the sheath yarn on the core thread, and the slab part is dyeable. The slab part of the multiple winding structure in which one sheath thread of two sheath yarns having different diameters forms the outermost layer and the slab part of the multiple winding structure in which the other sheath thread forms the outermost layer. The middle part of the road is formed as a sheath thread by being wound around a core thread, but the part formed by winding each of the two sheath threads, on which one sheath thread is wound Further, the other sheath thread includes a wound portion.
[0008]
The composite design yarn of the present invention has a slab portion in which each sheath yarn forms the outermost layer of the slab portion, one sheath yarn forms the outermost layer, and the other sheath yarn forms the outermost layer. Alternatively, at least two differently colored slab portions of the slab portion in which one sheath yarn is mixed with the other sheath yarn to form the outermost layer are randomly and / or regularly included in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
[0009]
The core yarn in the composite design yarn of the present invention may be a filament yarn to which false twisting is applied. Examples thereof include polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, cellulose acetate fiber, rayon fiber, etc. The filament yarn is a monofilament yarn. However, it is preferably a multifilament yarn.
[0010]
The two sheath yarns are not particularly limited as long as they are selected and combined based on the difference in dyeability. For example, polyester fibers dyed with disperse dyes, easily dyeable polyester fibers, cellulose acetate fibers, dispersed Multifilament yarns such as dyes, polyamide fibers dyed with reactive dyes, acrylic fibers dyed with cationic dyes, cationic dyeable polyester fibers with sulfonic acid groups, reactive dyes, rayon dyed with direct dyes, etc. A combination of sheath yarns having different dyeing properties is used.
[0011]
In addition, if the two sheath yarns are different in dyeability, one or both of them are different fineness yarns, different shrinkage yarns, partially oriented yarns, high stress high shrinkage yarns, ultra fine yarns, or composite yarns thereof. Also good. The two sheath yarns may be sheath yarns having the same fineness, but one sheath yarn is a sheath yarn having a fineness that is 25% or less of the total fineness in order to enhance the design effect due to the different colors. Preferably there is.
[0012]
Particularly preferred yarn composition of the composite design yarn of the present invention is that the core yarn is a polyester filament yarn, one of the sheath yarns is a cellulose acetate filament yarn or rayon filament yarn, and the other of the sheath yarns is a cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn, By forming the outermost layer of each slab part of the slab thread, the slab part includes a different color slab part and further a different touch slab part based on the outermost sheath thread, so that only the color is Even from the texture, it can be made into a composite design yarn rich in design effect.
[0013]
The composite design yarn of the present invention is a composite design yarn that is sufficiently fixed by holding and twisting the other sheath yarn by the one sheath yarn in the middle part of the road and the slab part, has good convergence, and does not slip out. The slab part of the yarn, which has good weaving properties and knitting properties, and is dyed based on the constitution of the yarn, particularly the constitution of the sheath yarn, when weaving, knitting into a woven or knitted fabric and dyeing with a dye as appropriate Due to the different color effect, an extremely excellent design effect that is not found in a woven or knitted fabric by a conventional composite false twisted yarn is exhibited.
[0014]
In the composite design yarn of the present invention, basically, two sheath yarns having different dyeing properties are independently supplied in an overfeed state to the twisted region in the false twisting process of the core yarn through a supply guide. When producing a composite design yarn in which a sheath yarn is wound around the outer periphery of the core yarn, one supply guide can be moved and from a position upstream from the amplitude range where the other supply guide is covered with the sheath yarn. It is manufactured by reciprocating to a downstream position.
[0015]
More specifically, when supplying the two sheath yarns independently through the supply guide to the twisted region in the false twisting process of the core yarn, one of the two supply guides is connected to the core yarn. One supply guide is upstream of the other supply guide by allowing it to move parallel to the travel path and reciprocating from the upstream position to the downstream position with respect to the amplitude range of the sheath yarn with the other supply guide. And a state where one supply guide is in a position downstream of the other supply guide so that the relative positional relationship between the two supply guides is reversed randomly and / or regularly. The composite design yarn of the present invention is manufactured by installing and supplying two sheath yarns in an overfeed state via a supply guide and winding them around the outer periphery of the core yarn.
[0016]
In the composite design yarn manufacturing method of the present invention, the outer periphery of the sheath yarn, which is supplied via the supply guide located upstream and wound around the core yarn, is supplied via the supply guide located downstream. Although the sheath yarn is wound, the outermost periphery of the slab portion is obtained by reversing the relative positional relationship between the two supply guides randomly and / or regularly, particularly in the multiple winding slab portion of the sheath yarn. As a result, the slab part in which one sheath thread is the outermost periphery and the slab part in which the other sheath thread is the outermost periphery are formed.
[0017]
The two supply guides are installed so that the position angle of the other supply guide with respect to the running path of the core yarn is shifted so as not to hinder the movement of one movable supply guide, and preferably each 80 is relative to the running path of the core yarn. Install at a distance of ~ 200mm. The two supply guides are preferably installed such that one supply guide can be moved and the other supply guide is fixed, provided that the relative positional relationship between the two supply guides can be reversed. Both supply guides may be movably installed.
[0018]
The movable supply guide is a twisted region of the core yarn, and reciprocates from a position upstream to a position downstream of the amplitude range of the sheath yarn with the other supply guide. The moving speed of the movable supply guide and the reciprocating frequency are arbitrarily set. However, when the supply guide is moved downstream in the same direction as the running direction of the core yarn, the moving speed is set to the yarn speed of the core yarn ( m / min) 0.3 to 0.6 times faster, when the supply guide is moved upstream in the direction opposite to the running direction of the core yarn, the moving speed is set to the yarn speed (m / min) of the core yarn. It is preferable that the speed is 0.2 to 0.5 times.
[0019]
Each of the two sheath yarns needs to be supplied to the twisted region of the core yarn in an overfeed state. The overfeed rate of each sheath yarn can be varied depending on the positional relationship between the two supply guides, and the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn when fed through the supply guide on the upstream side is 20 to 100%. The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn when supplied through the supply guide on the downstream side is preferably 70 to 140%.
[0020]
The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from the supply guide on the upstream side and the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from the supply guide on the downstream side are the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from the supply guide on the upstream side. Although the rate may be larger than the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from the supply guide on the downstream side, the supply guide on the upstream side is required to obtain a more complete coating of the outermost layer of the slab part. It is preferable that the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from the supply guide located on the downstream side from the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn from is increased, and the difference is desirably 40% or more.
[0021]
That is, for example, when one sheath thread of two sheath threads is supplied via a movable supply guide, the position when the movable supply guide is upstream of the other supply guide is detected. Reducing the overfeed rate, increasing the overfeed rate of the other sheath yarn through the other supply guide relatively downstream from the movable supply guide, and also allowing the movable supply guide to move Is detected downstream of the other supply guide, and the overfeed rate is increased, and the other sheath thread through the other supply guide relatively upstream from the movable supply guide. Reduce the overfeed rate.
[0022]
The two sheath yarns are supplied in an overfeed state by a sheath yarn supply roller, and each overfeed rate is a numerical value set in advance by detecting the relative positional relationship between the two supply guides with a sensor or the like. It is controlled by the number of rotations of the sheath yarn supply roller which changes randomly and / or regularly. Further, the core yarn is constantly supplied by a magnet tensioner, a constant speed nip roller or the like.
[0023]
For false twisting in the method for producing a composite design yarn of the present invention, two supply guides for sheath yarn are provided to a false-twisting machine of one heater or two heaters as used for false twisting of a thermoplastic filament yarn. An apparatus is used in which one supply guide is provided so as to be reciprocally movable from a position upstream to a position downstream from the amplitude range of the sheath yarn with the other supply guide. Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular in the false twisting tool in false twisting, the thing of a spindle system is used preferably and the number of false twists is 32500 / D1 / 2 * 0.8-32500 / D1 / 2 * 1. 0.0 (D: total fineness) is preferable.
[0024]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples.
[0025]
(Examples 1-4)
A two-heater type false twisting device using a spindle as a false twisting tool is used. The device has two sheath yarn supply guides, and one supply guide is 140 mm with respect to the running path of the core yarn twisting region. The other supply guide is fixed at a distance, and the other supply guide is displaced 200 mm above the supply guide fixed at a distance of 140 mm with respect to the running path of the core yarn twisting region in parallel with the running path of the core yarn twisting region. The distance of 350 mm between lower 150 mm was installed so that a movement was possible.
[0026]
Using the core yarn, sheath yarn A, and sheath yarn B shown in Table 1, with the above apparatus, the false twist direction Z, the first heater temperature 160 ° C., the second heater temperature 180 ° C., and the core yarn with a magnet tensor Then, the sheath yarn A was supplied by a supply roller to a twisted region of the core yarn through a supply guide that can move the sheath yarn A and a supply guide to which the sheath yarn B was fixed. Overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A when the sheath yarn A supply guide moves and is positioned upstream of the sheath yarn B supply guide, and when the sheath yarn A supply guide moves and is positioned downstream of the sheath yarn B supply guide The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A, the sheath yarn A supply guide moves, and the sheath yarn B supply guide moves relative to the sheath yarn B overfeed rate, the sheath yarn A supply guide moves relative When the sheath yarn B supply guide was positioned upstream, the overfeed rate, false twist number, yarn speed, and temperature of the sheath yarn B were set to the conditions shown in Table 2, and composite false twisting was performed.
[0027]
[Table 1]
[Table 2]
In the obtained composite design yarn, slab portions each having a length of 0.8 to 5 cm appear at a frequency of 6 to 12 per 1 m in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the length is between the slab portions and the slab portions. It had a straight middle part with a length of 1 to 20 cm.
[0030]
When the obtained composite design yarn is lined up and dyed by printing with a red cationic dye, the dyed yarn has a red slab group with a length of 70 to 90 cm and a length of 85 to 125 cm in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Colored slab groups are mixed almost randomly, and the red road slab group is 1-20 cm in length between the red slab groups, and the colorless slab group is 1-10 cm in length between the slab parts. And the middle part. Further, when the obtained composite design yarn was dyed by dyeing with a blue cationic dye and a yellow disperse dye, the dyed yarn had a blue-green slab portion and a yellow slab portion almost randomly in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It was mixed and had a turquoise roadway and a yellow roadway.
[0031]
(Examples 5 to 8)
In the same apparatus as used in Example 1, using the core yarn, sheath yarn A, and sheath yarn B shown in Table 3, false twist direction Z, first heater temperature 160 ° C., second heater temperature 180 ° C., The core yarn was supplied by a magnetic tensioner, and the sheath yarn A was supplied by a supply roller to the twisted region of the core yarn via a supply guide capable of moving the sheath yarn A and a supply guide to which the sheath yarn B was fixed. Overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A when the sheath yarn A supply guide moves and is positioned upstream of the sheath yarn B supply guide, and when the sheath yarn A supply guide moves and is positioned downstream of the sheath yarn B supply guide The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A, the sheath yarn A supply guide moves, and the sheath yarn B supply guide moves relative to the sheath yarn B overfeed rate, the sheath yarn A supply guide moves relative When the sheath yarn B supply guide was positioned upstream, the overfeed rate, the false twist number, the yarn speed, and the temperature of the sheath yarn B were set to the conditions shown in Table 4 to perform composite false twist processing.
[0032]
[Table 3]
[Table 4]
In the obtained composite design yarn, slab portions each having a length of 0.8 to 10 cm appear at a frequency of 4 to 18 per 1 m in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the slab portion is long between the slab portions. An overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A when the sheath yarn A guide is located in the upstream portion, and an overfeed rate of the sheath yarn A when located in the downstream portion. The larger the difference is, the clearer the form of the middle part of the road and the slab part is, and when the difference in the overfeed rate is small, a thick slab part where the slabs overlap is formed on the slab.
[0035]
When the composite design yarn obtained in Example 5 is aligned and dyed by printing with a red reactive dye, the dyed yarn has a red slab portion and a non-colored slab portion randomly mixed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The middle part of the road also has a red middle part and a colorless middle part. When the composite design yarns obtained in Examples 6 to 8 are aligned and dyed by printing with a red cationic dye, the longitudinal direction of the yarn In addition, a red slab part and an uncolored slab part were mixed at random, and had a red middle part and a colorless middle part. Further, when the composite design yarn obtained in Example 5 was dyed by dyeing with a red reactive dye and a blue cationic dye, the dyed yarn had a red slab portion and a blue slab portion in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Almost randomly mixed, it had a red road and a blue road.
[0036]
【The invention's effect】
The composite design yarn of the present invention is different from the conventional composite false twisted yarn, when the slab part in which the outermost layer is formed with a sheath yarn having different dyeability in one yarn is mixed and dyed, The slab portion can be dyed in different hues corresponding to the sheath yarn of the outermost layer, and slabs of different colors appear in the longitudinal direction in the same yarn, resulting in a composite design yarn that is extremely rich in design. Moreover, according to the method of the present invention, such a composite design yarn can be easily obtained by false twisting. The composite design yarn of the present invention is suitably used as a material for woven and knitted fabrics especially in the clothing field.
Claims (8)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP18029697A JP3703945B2 (en) | 1997-06-23 | 1997-06-23 | Composite design yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP18029697A JP3703945B2 (en) | 1997-06-23 | 1997-06-23 | Composite design yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| JPH1112872A JPH1112872A (en) | 1999-01-19 |
| JP3703945B2 true JP3703945B2 (en) | 2005-10-05 |
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| JP5695460B2 (en) * | 2011-03-24 | 2015-04-08 | 三菱レイヨン・テキスタイル株式会社 | Hemp-like fabric and method for producing the same |
| JP2020079451A (en) * | 2018-11-12 | 2020-05-28 | 三菱ケミカル株式会社 | Composite textured yarn and woven or knitted fabric |
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