JP3699495B2 - Moisturizing powder and powder cosmetic comprising the same - Google Patents

Description

【００３２】
表１より、本発明の実施例においては、いずれも伸び，透明感及びしっとり感の項目において各比較例よりも高い評価点を得ていた。特に、しっとり感については、比較例使用群が２点前後の評価点であったのに対し、４．５点〜４．８点と明らかに向上していた。とれ，つや，密着感及び化粧持ちについては実施例使用群と比較例使用群の間に有意な差は認められなかった。一方、実施例使用群の方が隠蔽性においては評価点が低く、本発明の実施例については隠蔽性がやや小さく、薄付きタイプの化粧料となることが示された。以上のように、本発明に係る保湿性粉体を配合した粉体化粧料は、非常にしっとり感の優れたものであり、化粧料の伸びも良好で、透明感に優れた隠蔽性のやや小さい化粧料であって、とれ，つや，密着感及び化粧持ちといった点についても、従来の粉体化粧料と同様の特性を有するものであった。
【００３３】
【発明の効果】
以上詳述したように、本発明により優れた保水機能を有し、且つ化粧料の安定性や化粧持ちに悪影響を及ぼすことのない保湿性粉体を得ることができた。また、これを配合することにより、伸びが良く、透明感があって隠蔽性の抑制されたしっとり感に優れる粉体化粧料を提供することができた。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本願発明の実施例及び比較例の粉体について、保湿性の評価結果を示す図である。
【図２】本願発明の実施例及び比較例の粉体について、水負荷試験の結果を示す図である。
【符号の説明】
１ 実施例９
２ 比較例１
３ 比較例２[0001]
[Industrial application fields]
The present invention relates to a moisturizing powder that has good water retention, replenishes moisture to the skin, and gives a good moist feeling, and a powder cosmetic that is blended with this and has excellent moisturizing properties. More specifically, a moisturizing powder formed by coating a lipid bilayer containing an amino acid on the surface, having a water retaining function similar to the water retaining function of the skin stratum corneum, and a mixture thereof. The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic with a high moist feeling.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Powder-type or cake-type foundations, eye color, teak color, and other powder cosmetics are generally stored in a compact container, so they are convenient to carry, and the built-in sponge makes makeup simple and hygienic. Because it can, it is most widely used in the country. These powder cosmetics are generally prepared by compressing and solidifying powder surfaces such as extender pigments, white pigments, and colored pigments with a binder such as an oil agent or a surfactant. That is, the powder occupies most of the cosmetic ingredients, and water is not blended or is limited to a very small amount even when blended.
[0003]
Therefore, in order to improve the moist feeling of such powder cosmetics, an emollient agent is added, or a powder coated with a highly water-retentive substance such as collagen, hyaluronic acid, amino acid derivatives, etc., by a mechanochemical method or the like. (JP-A-61-69710, 61-282307, 62-12709, etc.), attempts have been made to impart moisture retention to powder cosmetics. Recently, blending of pigments coated with at least one monoacyl phospholipid has been proposed (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-255042).
[0004]
However, when using an emollient, it is necessary to add a considerably large amount in order to obtain a sufficiently moist feeling, and the oily feeling of powder cosmetics becomes stronger, causing discomfort due to stickiness and maintaining the makeup. It got worse. In addition, regarding the formulation of powder coated with a surface of a water-retaining substance, most of the conventional water-retaining substances are not so high in their own water-retaining ability. In other words, it has an adverse effect, and under high humidity, it absorbs moisture in the outside air to give a sticky and unpleasant feeling of use. The pigment coated with the monoacyl phospholipid also did not have a function of supplying water directly to the skin.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems in conventional powder cosmetics for the purpose of imparting moisture retention, and a moisture retention powder having water retention similar to the moisture retention function of the stratum corneum on the surface, and this An object of the present invention is to provide a powder cosmetic which contains a moisturizing powder, has an excellent moisturizing property, has a good moist feeling, and is not sticky.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In solving the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors previously made a lipid bilayer membrane by combining the lipid bilayer membrane with at least one selected from amino acids, higher fatty acids, and higher alcohols. When a lamella structure is formed on the skin, it has been found that water transpiration from the skin can be suppressed and that the amount of bound water is increased (Japanese Patent Application No. 6-102331). Of these complex lipid bilayer membranes, the present invention succeeded in obtaining a moisturizing powder having an excellent water retention function by coating the powder surface with a lipid bilayer membrane containing amino acids. It came to be completed.
[0007]
Lipid bilayers include glycerophospholipids such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, sphingophospholipids such as sphingomyelin, glyceroglycolipids such as glycosylacylglycerol, phosphoglyceroglycolipids such as phosphatidylglucosylacylglycerol, gluco It can be prepared using glycosphingolipids such as cerebroside and galacto cerebroside. Such lipids are heated and dissolved while stirring at 80 to 90 ° C., and amino acids are added and contained. The addition amount is suitably 1 to 30% by weight. If the amount is less than 1% by weight, a sufficient water retention function or moisture transpiration protection function cannot be exhibited, and if it exceeds 30% by weight, the stability of the lipid bilayer membrane is affected.
[0008]
As amino acids, D-amino acids and DL-racemates can be used in addition to naturally occurring L-amino acids. In addition to α-amino acids, β-amino acids and γ-amino acids can also be used. In particular, when one or more of proline, isoleucine, L-form, D-form and DL-form of leucine are contained, a marked increase in the amount of bound water is observed, and a preferable water retention function is exhibited.
[0009]
The coating process of the amino acid-containing lipid bilayer on the powder surface was prepared by preparing a lipid gel containing amino acid, dissolving it in a polar organic solvent such as isopropanol, adding the powder to be coated, and mixing and stirring. Thereafter, drying is performed at a temperature of about 70 ° C. to remove the organic solvent.
[0010]
Powders that coat amino acid-containing lipid bilayers include extender pigment powders such as talc, kaolin, and mica, white pigment powders such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, bengara, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide. Inorganic colored pigment powders, pearl pigment powders such as titanium mica, and organic extender powders such as nylon powder and polystyrene powder.
[0011]
[Action]
When the moisturizing powder according to the present invention is thinly applied on a slide glass and observed with a polarizing microscope, formation of a lamellar layer composed of a lipid bilayer is recognized. Therefore, in the moisturizing powder according to the present invention, the powder surface is coated with a lamellar layer of a lipid bilayer membrane containing amino acids, the lipid bilayer membrane retains moisture as bound water, and has a good water retention function. When applied on the skin, it exhibits the action of supplying necessary moisture to the skin to prevent it from drying. In addition, since the lipid bilayer complex on the powder surface holds water well as bound water, unlike a simple water-absorbing powder, there is no stickiness or makeup loss associated with moisture absorption.
[0012]
【Example】
Further, the present invention will be described in detail by examples.
[0013]
[Example 1] 485 g of talc was placed in an L-proline-containing phosphatidylcholine-coated talclikai machine, and 50 g of a 30% by weight aqueous solution of L-proline-containing phosphatidylcholine gel (phosphatidylcholine: L-proline = 80: 20) was added to 300 ml of isopropanol. For 30 minutes with occasional agitation. It was then dried at 70 ° C. and the isopropanol was removed by volatilization to give the title coated talc.
[0014]
[Example 2] L-isoleucine-containing phosphatidylethanolamine-coated kaolin In the same manner as described above, the kaolin surface was coated with L-isoleucine-containing phosphatidylethanolamine gel (phosphatidylethanolamine: L-isoleucine = 80: 20). Obtained.
[0015]
[Example 3] L-leucine-containing phosphatidylserine-coated mica Obtained by coating the mica surface with L-leucine-containing phosphatidylserine gel (phosphatidylserine: L-leucine = 80: 20) in the same manner as in Example 1. It was.
[0016]
[Example 4] D-proline, D-isoleucine-containing phosphatidylinositol-coated titanium oxide In the same manner as in Example 1, the surface of titanium oxide was treated with D-proline, D-isoleucine-containing phosphatidylinositol gel (phosphatidylinositol: D-proline: D -Isoleucine = 75: 15: 10) and obtained by coating.
[0017]
[Example 5] DL-proline, DL-leucine-containing sphingomyelin-coated Bengala In the same manner as in Example 1, the surface of Bengala was treated with DL-proline and DL-leucine-containing sphingomyelin gel (sphingomyelin: DL-proline: DL-leucine). = 75: 15: 10).
[0018]
[Example 6] D-leucine and L-isoleucine-containing glucosyl stearoyl glycerol-coated yellow iron oxide In the same manner as in Example 1, the surface of yellow iron oxide was treated with D-leucine and L-isoleucine-containing glucosyl stearoyl glycerol gel (glucosyl stearoyl glycerol: It was obtained by coating with D-leucine: L-isoleucine = 76: 12: 12).
[0019] In the same manner as Example 7] L- proline containing glucocerebroside coated black iron oxide in Example 1, a black iron oxide surface L- proline-containing glucoside Sereburoshidogeru (gluco cerebroside: L- Proline = 85: 15) Obtained by coating with
[0020]
[Example 8] L-isoleucine-containing galactocerebroside-coated mica titanium In the same manner as in Example 1, the surface of mica titanium was coated with L-isoleucine-containing galactocerebroside gel (galactocerebroside: L-isoleucine = 85: 15). I got it.
[0021]
[Example 9] L-proline, L-isoleucine-containing hydrogenated soybean lecithin-coated nylon powder L-proline, L-isoleucine-containing hydrogenated soybean lecithin gel (hydrogenated soybean lecithin: L-proline) : L-isoleucine = 75: 15: 10).
[0022]
[Example 10] DL-proline and DL-leucine-containing hydrogenated soybean lecithin-coated polystyrene powder As in Example 1, DL-proline and DL-leucine-containing hydrogenated soybean lecithin gel (hydrogenated soybean lecithin: DL-proline) : DL-leucine = 75: 10: 15).
[0023]
[Example 11] Powder foundation
(1) Coating treatment Bengala (Example 5) 3.0 (% by weight)
(2) Coated yellow iron oxide (Example 6) 2.5
(3) Coated black iron oxide (Example 7) 0.5
(4) Coated nylon powder (Example 9) 10.0
(5) Coated titanium oxide (Example 4) 10.0
(6) Covering mica (Example 3) 20.0
(7) Coating talc (Example 1) 43.7
(8) Liquid paraffin 5.0
(9) Octyl dodecyl myristate 2.5
(10) Vaseline 2.5
(11) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
(12) Fragrance 0.2
Manufacturing method: Mix (1) to (7), grind and transfer to high speed blender. (8)-(12) are mixed and added to this, and it mixes uniformly. This is pulverized, and after adjusting the particle size through a sieve, it is filled into a metal pan and compression molded.
[0024]
[Example 12] Solid cheek color
(1) Coated talc (Example 1) 59.7 (% by weight)
(2) Coating treatment kaolin (Example 2) 20.0
(3) Coating-treated titanium oxide (Example 4) 4.0
(4) Zinc stearate 5.0
(5) Rice starch 5.0
(6) Colorant 3.0
(7) Liquid paraffin 3.0
(8) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
(9) Fragrance 0.2
Production method: (1) to (6) are uniformly mixed and developed. Next, (7) to (9) are added by spraying, mixed uniformly, passed through a sieve, filled into a metal pan and compression molded.
[0025]
[Example 13] Cake-type eye color
(1) Coated talc (Example 1) 47.7 (% by weight)
(2) Coating mica (Example 3) 15.0
(3) Magnesium carbonate 1.0
(4) Zinc stearate 10.0
(5) Coated titanium oxide (Example 4) 5.0
(6) Colorant 15.0
(7) Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0
(8) Liquid paraffin 4.0
(9) Lanolin 1.0
(10) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
(11) Fragrance 0.2
Manufacturing method: (1) and (6) are mixed, then (2), (3) and (4) are added in order and mixed, and then mixed and melted (7) to (10) and (11) are sprayed. Add and mix. This is pulverized, passed through a sieve, filled into a metal pan and compression molded.
[0026]
[Example 14] Cake-type eye color
(1) Coated titanium oxide (Example 4) 35.0 (wt%)
(2) Covering talc (Example 1) 23.7
(3) Covering mica (Example 3) 10.0
(4) Zinc stearate 5.0
(5) Zinc laurate 3.0
(6) Colorant 15.0
(7) Hexadecyl myristate 5.5
(8) Lanolin fatty acid isopropyl 2.5
(9) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
(10) Fragrance 0.2
Production method: (2) to (6) are mixed and pulverized, then (1) is mixed, and (7) to (9) and (10) previously mixed are added and mixed. This is passed through a sieve, filled into a metal pan and compression molded.
[0027]
[Example 15] Powder powder
(1) Coating talc (Example 1) 60.8 (% by weight)
(2) Coating treatment kaolin (Example 2) 15.0
(3) Calcium carbonate 5.0
(4) Zinc oxide 10.0
(5) Magnesium stearate 5.0
(6) Colorant 4.0
(7) Fragrance 0.2
Production method: (1) and (6) are mixed with a blender, (2) to (5) are added to this and mixed uniformly, and then the color is adjusted, and (7) is sprayed and mixed uniformly. After pulverizing this, it is made into a product through a sieve.
[0028]
[Example 16] Solid white
(1) Coated talc (Example 1) 40.7 (% by weight)
(2) Coating treatment kaolin (Example 2) 20.0
(3) Calcium carbonate 10.0
(4) Zinc oxide 15.0
(5) Magnesium stearate 3.0
(6) Rice starch 2.0
(7) Colorant 4.0
(8) Liquid paraffin 3.5
(9) Isopropyl myristate 1.5
(10) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
(11) Fragrance 0.2
Manufacturing method: After mixing (1) and (7) with a blender, adding (2) to (6) to this, mixing, then adding (8) to (10), and mixing uniformly Toning. This is pulverized, filled into a metal pan through a sieve, and compression molded.
[0029]
Next, in order to show the water retention function of the moisturizing powder according to the present invention, the above Examples 1 to 10 were subjected to a moisture retention evaluation and a water load test. The results of the test are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 for Example 9 in which the most typical water retention was recognized. Here, the moisture retention evaluation is performed by placing 10 ml of purified water in a vial bin partitioned by a permeable membrane, precisely weighing and placing 0.1 g of the sample on the permeable membrane, and sealing the amount of moisture absorbed over time. It was determined by the infrared absorption spectrum measurement method. On the other hand, in the water load test, 20 μl of purified water was added to and mixed with 0.1 g of the sample, and the water content of the sample thereafter was measured over time by the infrared absorption spectrum measurement method. In addition, with respect to Example 9, the water retention function was similarly evaluated as Comparative Example 1 in which nylon powder treated with only isopropanol and dried was subjected to Comparative Example 1 and nylon powder coated with only hydrogenated soybean lecithin as Comparative Example 2.
[0030]
In FIG. 1, Comparative Example 2 coated with hydrogenated soybean lecithin is recognized to have moisture retention as compared with Comparative Example 1 only treated with isopropanol, but the coated nylon powder of Example 9 is further compared with Comparative Example 1. 2. Moisturizing property about 2.5 times that of 2. In FIG. 2, it can be seen that the moisture-retaining powder of Example 9 better retains the water added clearly compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Therefore, the moisturizing powder according to the present invention does not exhibit moisture retention simply by moisture absorption, but has a property of favorably retaining moisture present in the environment. Does not adversely affect
[0031]
Then, the usage test was done about Example 11-Example 16 which is powder cosmetics which mix | blended the moisturizing powder which concerns on this invention. In Example 11 to Example 16, each of the moisturizing powders obtained by coating the amino acid-containing lipid bilayer membrane with a powder not subjected to the coating process was used as Comparative Examples 3 to 8, respectively. Each example and each comparative example was used blindly by 20 female panelists, and sensory evaluation was performed on the feeling of use. The sensory evaluation is “good”, “slightly good”, “normal”, “slightly bad”, “bad”, or “about” for taking off, stretching, gloss, adhesion, transparency, hiding, moist feeling and makeup. ”,“ Somewhat ”,“ None ”,“ Somewhat ”, and“ None ”, and scored 5 points, 4 points, 3 points, 2 points, and 1 point, respectively. The results are shown in Table 1 as the average score of 20 panelists for each use group.
[Table 1]

[0032]
From Table 1, in the Example of this invention, all got the evaluation score higher than each comparative example in the item of elongation, a transparent feeling, and a moist feeling. In particular, the moist feeling was clearly improved from 4.5 points to 4.8 points, while the comparative use group had an evaluation score of around 2 points. There was no significant difference between the group using the examples and the group using the comparative examples regarding glossiness, adhesion, and makeup. On the other hand, in the example use group, the evaluation score was lower in the concealing property, and the concealing property was somewhat smaller in the examples of the present invention, and it was shown that the cosmetics of the thin type were obtained. As described above, the powder cosmetic blended with the moisturizing powder according to the present invention has a very moist feeling, a good elongation of the cosmetic, and a slightly concealing property excellent in transparency. It is a small cosmetic and has the same characteristics as conventional powder cosmetics in terms of removal, gloss, adhesion, and longevity.
[0033]
【The invention's effect】
As described above in detail, according to the present invention, it was possible to obtain a moisturizing powder that has an excellent water retention function and does not adversely affect the stability of the cosmetic and the makeup durability. Also, by blending this, it was possible to provide a powder cosmetic that has good elongation, transparency, and concealment suppression, and a moist feeling.
[Brief description of the drawings]
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the evaluation results of moisturizing properties of powders of examples and comparative examples of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a view showing the results of a water load test on powders of Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 Example 9
2 Comparative Example 1
3 Comparative Example 2

Claims (3)

Prepare a gel of lipid containing amino acid, dissolve it in a polar organic solvent, add the powder to be coated, mix and stir, then dry at a temperature of around 70 ° C. to remove the organic solvent and remove the powder. A moisturizing powder obtained by coating the surface of a lipid bilayer membrane containing one or more amino acids, obtained by coating the body surface with an amino acid-containing lipid bilayer membrane .   2. The moisturizing powder according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid is one or more selected from the group consisting of proline, isoleucine, L-form, D-form and DL-form of leucine. .   A powder cosmetic comprising the moisturizing powder according to claim 1 or 2.

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