JP2886155B1 - Pattern making method and pattern making device - Google Patents

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to easily and automatically create a pattern matching a body size from a pattern shape of a reference pattern. SOLUTION: In a storage means M1 of a pattern making apparatus, data for pattern points and line segments forming a pattern shape of a reference pattern, a formula for calculating a movement amount of the pattern point based on an input body size, and a pattern are provided. Is stored, and the correction procedure when the restriction conditions are not satisfied is stored, and the body size is input by the input means M2. Then, in the pattern shape changing means M3, the movement amount of the pattern point is obtained based on the input body size and the calculation formula, and the pattern shape of the reference pattern is changed based on the obtained movement amount. The correction is repeated until the pattern shape satisfies the constraint. The pattern shape changed to satisfy the constraint condition is output from the output unit M4.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a pattern making method and apparatus, and more particularly, to a pattern making method for automatically grading (enlarging / reducing) data of a reference pattern of a standard body size according to a body size or the like. Method and apparatus.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In the production of clothes, a standard pattern is usually provided based on a standard body size, and the standard pattern is graded based on the measured body size. I make patterns. When grading the basic pattern, the movement amount of each point (pattern point) on the basic pattern is calculated by a calculation formula as illustrated in FIG. 8 (for example, B difference / 6 or W difference / 12).
There is a known method. In the same figure, reference numeral 10 denotes the shape of the pattern of the back body, the B difference is the difference between the bust size of the measured body size and the bust size of the reference body size, and the W difference is the measured body size. The difference between the waist size of the size and the waist size of the reference body size, and the difference in height is the difference between the height of the measured body size and the height of the reference body size. Each point (pattern point) on the reference pattern paper is moved in the direction of the arrow or in the direction opposite to the arrow according to the polarity of the obtained moving amount by the moving amount obtained by such a calculation formula. Then, the pattern points are drawn by connecting the moved points. However, the above formula is only a guide, and it is not possible to create an accurate pattern by moving each point by the amount of movement calculated by the above formula and drawing a pattern shape. Need to be added.

[0003] A conventional pattern making method will be described with reference to an example of the relationship between sleeve unrolling and sleeve attachment lines. Now, as shown in FIG.
Each point on the reference pattern shape (contour line) 10 at the time of the hindsight is moved by the movement amount obtained by the calculation formula shown in FIG. 8 to obtain the graded pattern shape (contour line) 11 and the armhole Suppose that a line 12 is drawn. Next, the pattern shape of the part to be sewn (in this example, two sleeves) is adjusted in accordance with the pattern shape 11 of the rear view as follows.

In FIG. 10, reference numeral 20 denotes a shape of a reference pattern sleeve, and reference numeral 21 denotes a graded pattern sleeve shape. 1-1. First, the height dimension of the sleeve crest of the sleeve pattern of the basic pattern of the sleeve portion is substituted into a predetermined formula to determine the height dimension h of the sleeve crest, and the vertex 22 of the sleeve crest is determined. 1-2. Draw an arc 23 having a radius from the apex 22 of the new sleeve crest to the backhole size (length of the armhole line 12) s at the rear view, and draw the arc 23 and the sleeve width line (under the sleeve of the basic pattern paper). Line connecting points) 2
The point of intersection with 4 is the point 25 under the sleeve. 1-3. Draw a sleeve line 26 connecting the sleeve lower point 25 to the vertex 22 of the sleeve mountain. Then, readjustment is performed by, for example, the following method while considering the balance of the shape so that the drawn length of the sleeve mountain line 26 and the sleeve length s at the rear view are the same.

2-1. The height dimension h is changed by moving the vertex 22 of the sleeve tip up and down. 2-2. Redraw the Sodesama Line 26. 2-3. Move the sleeve lower point 25 left and right. The above-described correction procedures 2-1. To 2-3. Are repeated until the length of the sleeve crest line 26 and the sleeve length s at the rear view become equal, and finally, the sleeve crest line 26 'indicated by the broken line is obtained. Thus, it takes a lot of trouble to correct. Also, even if the length of the Sodesama line 26 'is equal to the length of the sleeves s in the rear view, if the way of fixing is wrong,
The sleeves are twisted or the sleeves are wrinkled.
Thus, grading the reference pattern paper required skill. On the other hand, in order to avoid such a complicated grading operation, a method of preparing patterns of various body sizes is conceivable, but the amount becomes large.

[0006]

As described above, in the conventional manual grading, the work is extremely complicated and requires many man-hours. Also, not all parts of the human body become larger or smaller on average, but the clothing design and body shape are also different, so experience and know-how to grade without impairing the feeling of design. It depends largely on the skill of a skilled technician.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and has as its object to provide a method and an apparatus for easily creating a pattern matching a body size from a pattern shape of a reference pattern.

[0008]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, a method for making a pattern shown schematically in FIG. 1 has been devised. That is, a pattern making method for changing the pattern shape of the reference pattern based on the body size, wherein the pattern forming the pattern shape of the reference pattern based on a preset calculation formula and the input body size. A step K1 for obtaining the moving amount of the point, a step K2 for moving the pattern point by the obtained moving amount, and a paper pattern shape connecting the line segments connecting the moved pattern points are defined by a preset constraint condition. It is determined whether or not the pattern is satisfied. If not, the pattern shape is changed according to a preset correction procedure, and this changing process is repeated until the changed pattern shape satisfies the constraint condition K3. And characterized in that:

According to this method, the movement amount of the reference pattern point is calculated from the body size and the calculation formula, and the pattern point is moved by the calculated movement amount.
It is determined whether or not the pattern shape represented by the line segment connecting the moved pattern points satisfies the constraint condition. If not, the pattern shape is changed according to the correction procedure. Then, by repeating this change process until the changed pattern shape satisfies the constraint condition, it is possible to easily and automatically create a pattern suitable for the body size.

Further, a pattern making apparatus schematically shown in FIG. 2 has been developed. That is, a pattern making device that changes the pattern shape of the reference pattern based on the body size, wherein the pattern points and the line data that form the pattern shape of the reference pattern, the pattern based on the input body size. A storage unit M1 for storing a calculation formula for calculating the movement amount of the point, a constraint condition of the pattern shape at the time of creating the pattern pattern, and a correction procedure when the constraint condition is not satisfied; an input unit M2 for inputting the body size; The movement amount of the pattern point is obtained based on the body size and the calculation formula input from the input means, and the pattern shape of the reference pattern is changed based on the obtained movement amount. The shape changing means M3 for performing the correction by the correction method until the constraint condition is satisfied, and the shape changing means M3 for satisfying the constraint condition via the pattern shape changing means. And an outputting means M4 for outputting the further been paper shapes. Here, the output of the pattern shape may be output by outputting data of pattern points and line segments forming the pattern shape, in addition to the example of plotting out on a sheet or displaying on a display.

According to this pattern making device, the shape of the reference pattern is changed based on the movement amount of the pattern point calculated by the body size and the movement amount calculation formula, and the changed pattern shape is further restricted. It is changed repeatedly according to a predetermined correction procedure until the condition is satisfied. When grading the pattern shape, in addition to the calculation formula for determining the relative movement amount of the pattern point, it is possible to input constraints and correction procedures related to the pattern shape. Can be mechanized. Therefore, it is possible to easily and automatically create a pattern that matches the body size.

In the above-mentioned pattern making apparatus, the pattern point and line segment data forming the pattern pattern of the reference pattern stored in the storage means, and the movement amount of the pattern point based on the input body size. , A constraint on the pattern shape when the pattern is created, and a correction procedure when the constraint is not satisfied can be changed by the input means.

In this paper pattern making apparatus, the calculation formula, the constraint condition and the correction procedure can be freely changed by the input means, so that it is easy to perform fine grading according to the body size of the customer. Further, by changing the shape data of the reference pattern, it is possible to create a pattern of clothes having different designs.

It is preferable that the pattern making apparatus is configured as a so-called CAD system having a computer provided with an appropriate input / output device. When a skilled technician (patana) operates this device, a preferred grading method suitable for the design and body size of the clothes is stored in a computer storage device in the form of calculation formulas, constraints, and correction procedures (how to correct). Entered and stored. In other words, it will have learning means to learn the experience and know-how of skilled technicians, so that clothes with similar designs and similar body shapes can be easily and accurately adjusted without impairing the feeling of the original design. Anyone can grade a pattern. Therefore, it is easy to obtain customer satisfaction.

[0015]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS One embodiment of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. The pattern making apparatus schematically shown in FIG. 2 is configured as a so-called CAD system in which a computer (a personal computer in this example) is provided with an appropriate input / output device. In the figure, a storage means M1 stores shape data of a pattern, etc., and includes a disk device, a memory, a CD-R.
OM and the like. As will be described in detail later, the input means M2 is used for interactively inputting a body size, a calculation formula, a constraint condition, a correction procedure, and the like, and includes a mouse, a digitizer, a keyboard, and the like. Pattern shape changing means M
Reference numeral 3 denotes a computer main body for grading a pattern shape. The output unit M4 includes a plotter that outputs (displays) a pattern shape, a display, and the like. This apparatus performs the processing conceptually shown in FIG. That is, basic grading is performed to change the shape of the reference pattern based on the shape data of the reference pattern, the body size, and the formula for calculating the amount of movement of the pattern point (N4). The pattern shape is corrected based on a correction procedure so as to satisfy the set constraints (N6).

A method for producing a pattern using the above-described pattern producing apparatus will be described with reference to a flowchart shown in FIG. In the example described below, the shape of the paper pattern in the rear view is first graded, and subsequently, the sleeve is graded so as to conform to the sleeve advance in the rear view.

[Data Input] First, the shape data of the reference pattern is input to the storage device of the personal computer (step S).
1). The shape data includes the coordinate values (x-y coordinate value group) of each pattern point Pi (P1, P2,...) Of the reference pattern paper prepared in advance (usually a standard pattern paper pattern) and each pattern. Information on the line segment connecting the points Pi, and the reference body size (bust B0
, Waist W0, hip H0, back height SET0, back shoulder width BKH0, etc.), the name of the part represented by the pattern, the part number, and the like. Actually, the necessary shape data is read from a floppy disk or a CD-ROM containing the image data of a plurality of clothes design, the shape data of the pattern of the clothes, etc. as appropriate, but the shape of the pattern is input by a digitizer or the like. No problem.

[Input of Body Size] Next, the measured body size of the customer as a grading target is input (step S2). For example, bust B1, waist W1
, Hip H1, height SET1, and shoulder width BKH1 are input. If necessary, enter measurement values for other measurement items.

[Selection of Parts] Next, a part (part) to be graded is selected (step S3). Here, for example, when the back view is selected, the back view data is retrieved from the stored reference pattern paper shape data, and the pattern shape and the pattern points Pi are displayed on the display with numbers.

[Input of Movement Amount Calculation Formula] Next, a calculation formula for calculating the movement amount of each pattern point Pi based on the difference between the measured body size and the reference body size is input (step S4). In addition, like the above-mentioned shape data,
A previously prepared one may be read from a floppy disk or the like, but here, it will be input one by one interactively. Specifically, referring to FIG. 5, one of the pattern points Pi included in the pattern shape 1 in the back view displayed on the display is selected with a mouse, and a moving amount calculation formula defined for the pattern point Pi is input. Input to window 2. Similarly, a moving amount calculation formula is input for the other pattern points Pi. In the example shown in the figure, the pattern point P9 is selected with a pointing device such as a mouse, and "Y movement, -SET / 3" is set in the "upper" column of the equation input window 2 as the Y-axis direction movement amount calculation formula. In the “Right” column, “X movement, B / 4” is input as a movement amount calculation formula in the X-axis direction. Here, B and SET mean the difference between the measured body size and the reference body size, and SET = SE
T1 -SET0, B = B1 -B0. Note that the moving amount calculation formula is not limited to the above-described simple movement in which the moving amount is defined in the X and Y axis directions from the selected point.
It is a specification that can set various types of calculation formulas. For example, relative movement that can define the destination with relative coordinates from the specified reference point, line segment expansion and contraction that moves the end point by defining the amount of expansion and contraction of the line, and movement on an arc of a specified radius centered on the reference point The compass point to be made.

[Input of Constraint Conditions and the Like] A constraint condition of the pattern shape and a correction procedure (method of correction) when the constraint conditions are not satisfied are input (step S5). As an operation procedure, referring to FIG. 5, a pattern point Pi displayed on the display is selected by clicking the mouse, and a constraint on the shape of the pattern and the pattern point when the constraint is not satisfied are displayed in the equation input window 2. A correction formula for calculating the movement amount for moving Pi (movement amount calculation formula) is input. Assuming now that there is a constraint condition that "pattern point P10 must be to the left of pattern point P9", and the condition is not satisfied, as a correction procedure, "move P9 rightward so as to be directly above P10." . "
Shall be set. In this case, first, the pattern point P9 is selected by clicking the mouse, and in that state, "0" is input to the "upper" column of the expression input window 2 to prevent the pattern point P9 from being moved in the Y-axis direction. In the “right” column of the expression input window 2, the following expression is input in the format of “conditional expression: moving amount calculation expression”. "? (P10> P9): X movement, P10,0" This expression executes the right movement amount calculation expression if the result of evaluating the left conditional expression is true. If the coordinate value of P10 (in this case, the X coordinate) is greater than the X coordinate value of P9, the X coordinate value of the selected P9 is incremented by the X coordinate value of P10 (0 is specified in the above equation). Change it to the added one. " That is, when this correction formula is executed for the pattern point P9, the Y coordinate of the pattern point P9 does not change, and the X coordinate becomes the same as the pattern point P10. In addition to the above, various expressions such as a comparison of the length of a line segment and an angle formed by two straight lines can be described in the conditional expression and the correction expression.

[Basic Grading] Step S
The movement amount of each pattern point Pi is calculated based on the movement amount calculation formula set in step 4, and each pattern point Pi is moved by the calculated movement amount while referring to FIG. The pattern shape 3 connecting the pattern points Pi is displayed on the display (step S6). Thus, the shape of the reference pattern 1
Is changed by the moving amount calculation formula. At this time, with respect to the sleeve repetition line C9 of the pattern shape 3, a spline curve passing through P8 and P9 is drawn on the basis of the sample points P91 to P94 after the movement, and is finished to a smooth curve.

[Shape Correction] The constraint conditions set in step S5 are evaluated in the set order, and based on the result, the corresponding pattern point is moved (the pattern shape is corrected according to the correction procedure), and the corrected pattern shape is corrected. (Step S7). In the setting example described above, the constraint condition is that “the pattern point P10 must be to the left of the pattern point P9”.
If it is further to the right, the corrective procedure "Move P9 right just above P10" is performed here. That is, in this example, it is possible to prevent the lower end of the rear view from being unnecessarily widened and spoiling the design of the garment.

[Conditional Branch] Then, it is checked whether or not all of the constraint conditions are satisfied.
7 and this loop is repeated until the shape change processing for all the constraint expressions is completed (step S8). When the shape change processing is completed, next, in step S9, it is asked whether to grade another part, and if not, the flow proceeds to the output processing in step S10. The output processing will be described later. On the other hand, the above step S9
In step 2, if "grading another part" is selected, the process returns to the part selection (step S3).

[Processing of Next Part] When the grading in the rear view is completed and the process returns to step S3, the next part to be graded is selected. Subsequent processing steps from step S4 to step S9 are the same as described above. Here, it is assumed that the sleeve is selected in step S3, and an example in which the shape of the sleeve is changed with reference to the shape of the pattern after the grading will be described below.

[Grading of Sleeve] Now, it is assumed that in step S6, a sleeve pattern shape 6 indicated by a solid line in FIG. 7 has been obtained. In the figure, P11 to P15 indicate pattern points, and C12 and C13 are sleeve sleeve lines. For reference, a reference pattern shape 5 is shown. Then, in step S5 before that, for example, it is assumed that the following constraint condition has been input.
"If the difference between the length of the sleeve laying line C9 of the pattern 3 at the back view and the length of the sleeve crest C13 of the pattern 6 of the sleeve is 1 mm or more, the pattern point P13 (sleeve below) is moved in the horizontal direction by the specified distance. In this case, the description of the method of concretely expressing the constraint conditions (input of an expression from the terminal) is omitted, but the shape correction process in step S7 firstly involves the length of the sleeve mountain line C13. Is calculated, and then, the obtained sleeve mountain line C
The length of the pattern point P13 is compared with the stored length of the sleeve retraction line C9 which is stored in the rear view, and the X coordinate of the pattern point P13 is changed by the specified movement amount.

Next, in step S8, it is determined whether or not the above-mentioned constraint condition is satisfied. If not, the process returns to step S7 to execute shape correction. If so, the process proceeds to step S9. Finally, the sleeve pattern shape 7 shown in FIG. 7 is determined, and it is possible to automatically obtain a preferable pattern pattern in which the shape of the sleeve crest is well matched to the sleeve reeling. If the end of the grading process is selected in step S9, the process proceeds to the next step S10.

[Output Processing] Here, the graded pattern shape is plotted out on a sheet via a plotter or displayed on a display (step S10).
In addition, data of pattern points and line segments forming the pattern shape may be output in a file format.

As described above, a pattern matching the body size is almost automatically created from the pattern shape of the reference pattern. By preliminarily setting the constraint conditions and the correction procedure regarding the pattern shape, the trouble of the grading work of repeating the correction over and over is eliminated, and in particular, for example, a plurality of parts such as adjusting the sleeve flute and the sleeve crest line mutually. Interim correction work can be performed easily and with high precision. In this paper pattern making device, in addition to the movement amount calculation formula for determining the relative movement amount of the pattern point, the experience and know-how of the skilled technician are taken into the paper pattern making device by inputting constraints and correction procedures concerning the paper pattern shape. Can be (learned) and reproduced. In addition, since the processing can be performed while checking the state of grading on the display, a more appropriate moving amount calculation formula, a constraint condition, and the like can be set /
Can be changed.

By the way, if a skilled worker (pattern) first sets calculation formulas, constraints, correction procedures, etc. that match the characteristics of clothes, these formulas are usually set again for most customers. No need. That is, if the data set and stored once are used for the input items other than the body size, the personal computer can automatically proceed with the processing after step S3 in the flowchart of FIG. Anyone can easily create a patterned body size pattern.

As described above, it is possible to easily and automatically create a pattern suitable for the body size, and a worker (patterner) can perform a complicated repetitive operation (for example, an operation for adjusting a sleeve reeling and a sleeve mountain line). And can produce high quality patterns that do not impair the feeling of the design, even for inexperienced people. In addition, by changing the shape data of the reference pattern, it is possible to easily create patterns of clothes having different designs. It is possible to arbitrarily change the shape data of the reference pattern, the calculation formula of the amount of movement, the constraint conditions, etc., so that it can also be used when creating a pattern that is not restricted to the pattern of the reference pattern. Can be.

It should be noted that the computer program of the pattern making method of the present invention may be provided by being recorded on a medium such as a CD-ROM.

[0033]

According to the present invention, there is an effect that a pattern suitable for the body size can be easily and quickly created from the pattern shape of the reference pattern.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view schematically showing a pattern making method of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating a configuration of a pattern creating apparatus according to the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a block diagram illustrating a process performed by the pattern creating device.

FIG. 4 is a flowchart illustrating a process performed by the pattern creating device.

FIG. 5 is a diagram illustrating a state in which a moving amount calculation formula is set on a display.

FIG. 6 is a diagram illustrating grading at a rear view.

FIG. 7 is a diagram illustrating a change in the shape of a sleeve cap.

FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a conventional formula for calculating a moving amount of grading.

FIG. 9 is a diagram illustrating grading in a conventional rear view mode.

FIG. 10 is a diagram for explaining conventional grading of a sleeve.

[Explanation of symbols]

 M1 storage means M2 input means M3 shape changing means M4 output means

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A pattern making method for changing a pattern shape of a reference pattern based on a body size, wherein the pattern shape of the reference pattern is changed based on a preset calculation formula and an input body size. A step of calculating the amount of movement of the pattern point to be formed; a step of moving the pattern point by the obtained amount of movement; and a pattern shape connecting the line segments connecting the moved pattern points is a preset constraint condition. Is determined, and if not satisfied, the pattern shape is changed according to a preset correction procedure, and this changing process is repeated until the changed pattern shape satisfies the constraint condition. And a pattern making method. 2. A pattern making apparatus for changing a pattern shape of a reference pattern based on a body size, comprising: data of pattern points and line segments forming the pattern shape of the reference pattern; Storage means for storing a calculation formula for calculating the movement amount of the pattern point, constraints on the shape of the pattern when creating the pattern, and a correction procedure when the constraints are not satisfied; and input means for inputting the body size. Calculating the amount of movement of the pattern point based on the body size and the calculation formula input from the input means, changing the pattern shape of the reference pattern based on the calculated amount of movement, and changing the pattern shape A shape changing unit that performs correction by the correction method until the constraint condition is satisfied; and a change is made through the pattern shape changing unit to satisfy the constraint condition. Paper making apparatus and an output means for outputting a paper shape. 3. A calculation formula for calculating a movement amount of the pattern point based on pattern point and line segment data forming a pattern shape of a reference pattern pattern stored in the storage means and an input body size. The pattern making apparatus according to claim 2, wherein a restriction condition of the pattern shape at the time of generating the pattern and a correction procedure when the restriction condition is not satisfied can be changed by the input unit.