JP2561858B2 - Oily makeup cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an oily make-up cosmetic composition, more specifically, a silicone gel composition and a cosmetic powder dispersed in an oily base, and The present invention relates to an oily make-up cosmetic having an excellent cosmetic effect.

[Conventional technology and its problems]

Oily makeup cosmetics are widely used because they have excellent properties such as adhesion to skin, covering power, and water resistance of cosmetic film. And the conventional oily makeup cosmetics generally use an oily base composed of a semi-solid oil or a liquid oil and a solid oil, or an oily base which is further gelled by blending an oily gelling agent, to which a cosmetic powder is added. It is manufactured by mixing, dispersing, solidifying and molding the body.

However, since the conventional oily makeup cosmetics have a large oil content, they have drawbacks such as a sticky feeling and a greasy feeling peculiar to oily type products, and poor spread and spread.

In order to solve these drawbacks, water or an aqueous component is blended to make it a W / O type emulsion type, which reduces the oil content,
It has been practiced to add an oil agent having less oiliness, such as a low-viscosity silicone oil.

However, the W / O emulsion type make-up cosmetics containing water or an aqueous component can give a dry feeling, but has a drawback that water scatters over time. Various studies have been made to eliminate this drawback, but it has been difficult to completely prevent the evaporation of water. Further, even if the amount of oil is reduced or an oil agent having a low oiliness is blended, the oiliness of the oily base cannot be sufficiently eliminated. In particular, low-viscosity silicone oils have little stickiness by themselves and have a slimy feel. It was difficult to maintain the cosmetics stably due to poor compatibility with the preparation.

Therefore, it is desired to develop an oil-based make-up cosmetic composition that retains the excellent properties of the oil-based make-up cosmetic composition, but does not feel the sticky feeling or greasiness, which is its drawback, and has a refreshing feeling of use. It was

[Means for solving the problem]

As a result of various investigations conducted by the present inventors to overcome the above problems, a silicone gel composition in which a low-viscosity silicone oil is included in the structure of an organopolysiloxane polymer having a crosslinked structure in an oily base It was found that an excellent oil-based make-up cosmetic composition having less stickiness, a dry feel and a smooth slipperiness can be obtained by dispersing it.

That is, the present invention relates to an oily base containing a semi-solid oil or a liquid oil and a solid oil and / or an oily gelling agent, and the following (a) and (b) (a) (a) silicon atom in one molecule: An organohydrogenpolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to the (b) an organopolysiloxane containing (b) an organopolysiloxane containing at least two aliphatically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule. The present invention provides a silicone gel composition comprising a polysiloxane polymer and (b) a low-viscosity silicone oil, and an oil-based make-up cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic powder dispersed therein.

The oily base used in the present invention is a semisolid oil or liquid oil mixed with a solid oil and / or an oily gelling agent.

The semi-solid oil or liquid oil is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, mineral oil, vegetable oil,
Animal oil, higher fatty acid, higher fatty acid ester, higher alcohol and the like can be used. Specifically, for example, liquid paraffin, squalane, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, lanolin, vaseline,
Olive oil, jojoba oil, macadamian nutnut oil, mink oil, turtle oil, almond oil, safflower oil, avocado oil, octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, glycerin fatty acid ester such as triglyceride 2-ethylhexanoate, Examples thereof include diglycerin fatty acid ester such as diglyceryl isostearate, propylene glycol fatty acid ester such as propylene glycol dicaprate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, oleic acid and oleyl alcohol.

As a solid oil, the melting point usually accepted for cosmetics
There is no particular limitation as long as it is a solid oil of 40 ° C. or higher, and hydrocarbons, waxes, hydrogenated oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, etc. can be used. Specifically, for example, solid paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, beeswax, mokuro, gairo, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated castor oil, rosin acid pentaerythium. Lit ester, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol and the like can be mentioned.

The oily gelling agent is blended in order to gel the oily component to adjust the hardness of the cosmetic, and to obtain an appropriate elongation of the cosmetic to the skin. As the oily gelling agent, those known in the field of cosmetics can be used, for example, clay minerals such as organically modified montmorillonite clay; starch fatty acid esters (for example, fatty acid ester of decomposed starch having an average polymerization degree of 10 to 50); lipophilicity Sucrose sugar fatty acid esters (for example, fatty acids having 12 or more carbon atoms and an ester composition of 10% by weight or less of monoester); N-acyl amino acid amides such as lauroyl glutamic acid dibutyl amide and dilauroyl lysine stearyl amine salt. Derivatives such as esters and amine salts; metal soaps such as 12-hydroxyaluminum stearate, calcium stearate, calcium palmitate and the like are used.

These solid oils and oily gelling agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and mixed with the semi-solid oil or liquid oil to prepare the oily base used in the present invention. The mixing ratio of the solid oil and the oily gelling agent is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5 to 40% by weight in the oily base.

The silicone gel composition is composed of the organopolysiloxane polymer (a), which is insoluble in the silicone oil but is sufficiently swellable, and the low-viscosity silicone oil (b), and has a low organopolysiloxane polymer structure. Contains viscous silicone oil.

The organopolysiloxane polymer of (a) that is insoluble in silicone oil but swells sufficiently is a polymer obtained by addition-polymerizing an organohydrogen polysiloxane and an aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane, Partly has a three-dimensional crosslinked structure.

Organohydrogenpolysiloxane used here is HSiO _1.5 unit, RSiO _1.5 unit, RHSiO unit, R ₂ SiO
Unit, R ₂ HSiO _0.5 unit, R ₃ SiO _0.5 unit, etc. The molecular structure of this unit may be linear, branched or cyclic, and a hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom in one molecule. It contains at least two. Further, the organohydrogenpolysiloxane is more preferably linear in order to control the synthesis reaction of the organopolysiloxane polymer. Further, the hydrogen atom bonded to the silicon atom in this organohydrogenpolysiloxane (≡SiH bond) is generally considered to be contained in the molecular chain, but it may be the end of the molecular chain, This ≡Si
The amount of H bond is usually 1 to 20 mol% when the molecular structure is linear or branched, and 1 to 50 mol% when the molecular structure is cyclic.
It is desirable that 50 mol% or more of the organic groups other than the ≡SiH bond are methyl groups.

The aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane used at the same time contains at least two aliphatic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule. Examples of the organopolysiloxane include vinyl groups and aryl groups, but vinyl group-containing organovinylpolysiloxanes are generally exemplified, and examples of the organovinylpolysiloxane include (CH ₂ = CH) SiO _1.5 units, RSiO
_1.5 units, R (CH = CH ₂ ) SiO units, R ₂ SiO units, R ₂ (CH =
CH ₂ ) SiO _0.5 unit, R ₃ SiO _0.5 unit and the like, and the molecular structure of this unit may be linear, branched or cyclic and may be an aliphatic non-aliphatic group bonded to a silicon atom in one molecule. It contains at least two saturated groups such as vinyl groups. The aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane used here is more preferably linear in order to control the synthesis reaction of the organopolysiloxane polymer. In addition, this organovinylpolysiloxane is usually a linear one in which both ends of the molecular chain are blocked with dimethylvinylsilyl groups, but this vinyl group may be contained in the chain. Is 1 to 20 mol% when the molecular structure is linear or branched, and 1 to 50 mol% when the molecular structure is cyclic, and the organic group other than the vinyl group is 50 mol% or more. Is preferably a methyl group.

In each molecule of the organohydrogen polysiloxane and the aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane, for example, organovinylpolysiloxane, a hydrogen atom or a vinyl group bonded to a silicon atom which is a reactive group is contained in one molecule. It is essential that at least two of them are contained in order that both addition polymers may partially form a three-dimensional structure. The content of each of these reactive groups in the organopolysiloxane is more than 20 mol% when the molecular structure is linear or branched, and when the molecular structure is cyclic.
When it is more than 50 mol%, it becomes a hard polymer, and the low-viscosity silicone oil described later tends to be difficult to be encapsulated in the three-dimensional cross-linking structure, resulting in separation and discharge, which makes it impossible to stably maintain. Conversely, if the content is less than 1 mol%, the structural viscosity tends to be poor. Therefore, although it is not limited to obtain a soft and good silicone gel composition, the content of the reactive group is 1 to 20 mol% when the molecular structure is linear or branched, Further, in the case of a cyclic one, it is 1 to 50 mol%.

Further, as the organic group R of the organohydrogenpolysiloxane, a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group,
Selected from alkyl groups such as butyl groups, phenyl groups, aryl groups such as tolyl groups, cyclohexyl groups or groups in which some or all of the hydrogen atoms bonded to the carbon atoms of these groups are replaced with halogen atoms, cyano groups, etc. The substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group excluding the aliphatic unsaturated group such as vinyl group is exemplified.

A typical example of such an example is (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO
_{-, (CH 3) 2 SiO} p, CH 3 HSiO q, Si (CH 3) 3
A methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing units of (where p = 10 to 500 and q = 2 to 50) is a suitable material.

In addition, the organic group R of the organovinylpolysiloxane that is an aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane,
Synonymous with R of organohydrogenpolysiloxane. A typical example of such an example is (CH ₂ = CH)
_{(CH 3) 2 SiO -,} (CH 3) 2 SiO r -Si (CH 3) 2 (CH
= CH ₂ ), (where r = 10 to 100) or (CH
₃ ) ₃ SiO-, (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _m , (CH = CH ₂ ) CH ₃ SiO
_{n, -Si (CH 3) 3} , ( where, m = 10~500, n = 2~
Methyl vinyl polysiloxanes comprising units of 50) are mentioned, which may be a mixture and are suitable materials.

The addition reaction of such an organohydrogenpolysiloxane and an aliphatic unsaturated group-containing organopolysiloxane may be carried out by a conventionally known general method. For example, the molar ratio of the appropriate hydrogen-bonded organohydrogenpolysiloxane and organovinylpolysiloxane to the silicon atom, which is each reactive group, and the vinyl group is 1/3 to 3/1.
After addition in the above range, an addition polymerization catalyst such as platinum or palladium is added, and the mixture is heated and stirred to easily obtain the desired organopolysiloxane polymer insoluble in silicone oil. In particular, as the addition polymerization catalyst, it is preferable to use chloroplatinic acid described in JP-B-33-9969.

On the other hand, the low-viscosity silicone oil (b) is not particularly limited, but any one having a viscosity of about 50 cs or less can be preferably used. This is because as the viscosity becomes higher, a large amount of it is used, and as a result, a feeling of oiliness occurs, which is not preferable in terms of usability. Examples of the low-viscosity silicone oil include low-polymerization degree chain dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and the like. Two or more types are appropriately selected and used.

The silicone gel composition can be easily prepared by sufficiently kneading the organopolysiloxane polymer obtained as described above and the low-viscosity silicone oil and swelling them. In this case, the mixing ratio of the organopolysiloxane polymer and the low-viscosity silicone oil is 5:95 to 30: 70% by weight, preferably 10:90 to 25: 75% by weight. When the amount of the organopolysiloxane polymer is small, the low-viscosity silicone oil becomes excessive, and it becomes impossible to maintain a good gel structure with flow viscosity. On the contrary, when the amount is large, it becomes difficult to obtain a soft gel composition.

The cosmetic powder is not particularly limited, but an extender pigment,
Inorganic white pigments, inorganic colored pigments, organic pigments, organic powders, pearlescent agents and the like can be used, and specifically, talc, kaolin, mica, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate,
Silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide,
Black iron oxide, Gunjiyou, tar dye, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, methylmethacrylate powder, styrene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, starch, mica titanium,
Examples include iron oxide mica titanium and bismuth oxychloride.

The weight ratio of the silicone gel composition to the oily base is preferably 55/45 to 95/5, particularly 55/45 to 65/35. When the silicone gel composition is too much, the silicone gel composition is no longer dispersed in the oily base,
Not preferred. If the silicone gel composition is too small, the effect of the present invention cannot be sufficiently obtained.

The content of the cosmetic powder is preferably 1 to 40% by weight based on the total amount of the oily base and the silicone gel composition.

In the oily make-up cosmetics of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, perfumes, preservatives, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention,
An ultraviolet absorber, a surfactant, an antioxidant, a polymer compound, a skin-care ingredient, etc. can be added.

The oily make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention is produced by uniformly mixing an oily base, a silicone gel composition and a cosmetic powder according to a conventional method. The order of addition is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that the silicone gel composition and the cosmetic powder are uniformly dispersed in the oily base by mixing.

Examples of the oily make-up cosmetics of the present invention include foundation, hoho beige, ash dough, white powder, lipstick and the like, which can be in various forms such as solid form and stick form.

[Action and effect of the invention]

The oily make-up cosmetic of the present invention comprises a silicone gel composition and a cosmetic powder dispersed in an oily base. The low-viscosity silicone oil blended in this silicone gel composition is incorporated and present in the three-dimensional crosslinked structure of the organopolysiloxane polymer. That is, since the gel structure of this silicone gel composition is quickly destroyed by a small external force, by rubbing with an application body at the time of using the cosmetic of the present invention and spreading the application on the skin,
The low-viscosity silicone oil that had been encapsulated quickly oozes out.

Therefore, the oil-based make-up cosmetics of the present invention have characteristics such as adhesiveness, covering power, and water resistance of the cosmetic film, which are peculiar to oil-based products, and since the low-viscosity silicone oil directly acts on the skin, it is not sticky or oily. It has no vase and has a smooth and slippery feel. Further, the cosmetics of the present invention have no makeup on the cosmetic film, are natural and have a good finished state, and have good cosmetic effects such as good makeup lasting.

〔Example〕

 Next, the present invention will be described with reference to Reference Examples and Examples.

Reference Example 1 A planetary mixer having an internal volume of about 5 was added to a trimethylsilyl end-capped dimethylmethylhydrogenpolysiloxane (average molecular weight 2340, Si-H 4.5 mol%) 1790 g, and dimethylvinylsilyl end-capped dimethylpolysiloxane (average molecular weight 930, Vinyl group (7.7 mol%) (710 g) was added, and the mixture was stirred and mixed.

0.5 g of a 2% solution of chloroplatinic acid in isopropanol was added to the mixed solution, the temperature was raised to 70 to 80 ° C., and stirring was continued for 2 hours. Then, the pressure inside the system was reduced to 5 to 10 mmHg, and stripping was continued for 30 minutes. The organopolysiloxane polymer obtained as a result was a powder having white flexibility.

2 parts by weight of this silicone polymer and 8 parts by weight of dimethylpolysiloxane (viscosity 6 cs) were dispersed and mixed, then sufficiently kneaded with a three-roll and swollen to prepare a silicone gel composition.

Reference Example 2 In the same manner as in Reference Example 1, dimethylhydrogensilyl end-capped dimethylpolysiloxane (average molecular weight 2720,
Si-H 2.6 mol%) 880 g trimethylsilyl end-capped dimethylmethylvinylpolysiloxane (average molecular weight 500
0, vinyl group 1.5 mol%) 1620 g, and 0.5 g of a 2% isopropanol solution of chloroplatinic acid was added, and the same operation was performed.
A silicone gel composition was prepared.

Reference Example 3 In the same manner as in Reference Example 1, 55 g of methylhydroxycyclotetrasiloxane (average molecular weight 232, Si—H 50 mol%) and 2200 g of dimethylvinylsilyl end-capped dimethyl polysiloxane (average molecular weight 4400, vinyl group, 1.3 mol%) were added. After blending, 0.5 g of a 2% isopropanol solution of chloroplatinic acid was added, and a silicone gel composition was prepared by the same operation.

Example 1 Solid Foundation A solid foundation having the composition shown in Table 1 was produced,
The feeling of use was sensory evaluated.

<Manufacturing Method> Components (1) to (3) were mixed and dissolved by heating. Separately, the components (6) to (10) were mixed and pulverized to homogeneity. These were mixed with the components (4) or (5), mixed uniformly, heated and melted, then poured into a container, filled and solidified to obtain a solid foundation.

<Sensory evaluation> Female panel 20 using the obtained solid foundation
It was evaluated by conducting a usage test by name. As described below, each item was given an evaluation score and further evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2.

Evaluation points Very good 3 points Good or normal 2 points Poor 1 point Judgment average score 2.5 or more ◎ Average score 1.5 to less than 2.5 ○ Average score less than 1.5 × From the above results, the solid foundation of the present invention has a very light spread at the time of application to the skin, has a good feeling of stickiness and no stickiness, and has a light feeling on the cosmetic film. There is no natural and the finish is good, it is excellent in feeling,
It had a good cosmetic effect. Further, the weight was not felt even when scraped with an application body such as a sponge or mat, which was preferable for use. On the other hand, although the foundation of Comparative Example 1 has a light application to the skin, it feels like oily skin and has little adhesion.
Moreover, the finished cosmetic film had some remaining glares. Further, the foundation of Comparative Example 2 was heavy when applied to the skin, and the finished cosmetic film was thick and thick, and a natural finish could not be obtained.

Example 2 Stick-shaped fantasy A stick-shaped candy having the composition shown in Table 3 was produced, and sensory evaluation was performed on the feeling of use.

<Production Method> Components (1) to (7), (8), and (9) to (14) were mixed, mixed and heated in the same manner as in Example 1, and then molded into a stick shape.

<Sensory evaluation> The sensory evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 4.
Shown in

The sticky foundation of the present invention is soft and soft to the touch when applied, has a light spread and spread, and has no dullness, has a crisp feeling, and is excellent in use. The makeup effect was also good.
On the other hand, the product of Comparative Example 2 was not light in use, the finished makeup film was thick, and natural makeup could not be expected.

Example 3 Sticky Lipstick <Components> (Parts by Weight) (1) Microcrystalline Wax 14.0 (2) Rosinic Acid Pentaerythritol Esters 8.0 (3) Dipentaerythritto Tetra 12-Hydroxystearic Acid Sesquistearic Acid Hemirodin Ester 4.0 (4) Glyceryl isostearate 34.0 (5) Propylene glycol dicaprate 12.0 (6) Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 6.0 (7) Silicone gel composition (obtained in Reference Example 1) 20.0 (8) Red No. 226 Appropriate amount (9) Red No. 202 〃 (10) Yellow No. 4 〃 (11) Mica titanium 〃 <Manufacturing> Components (1) to (6), (7), (8) to (11) are mixed, After mixing and heating in the same manner as in Example 1, the mixture was molded into a stick shape.

The sticky lipstick of the present invention obtained as described above can draw red with a very light touch, has a smooth and smooth feel, has good spreadability, and has excellent usability,
The makeup effect was also good.

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A semi-solid oil or a liquid oil and a solid oil and / or
Alternatively, the following (a) and (b) (a) (a) an organohydrogenpolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule in an oil base containing an oil gelling agent: And (b) an organopolysiloxane polymer obtained by addition reaction with an organopolysiloxane containing at least two aliphatic unsaturated groups bonded to a silicon atom in one molecule, and (b) a low-viscosity silicone oil. An oily makeup cosmetic composition comprising a silicone gel composition and a cosmetic powder dispersed therein.